August 18, 2015 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

• Exceptional value wine   – this is the best-value release in memory with an embarrassment of riches; 10 of 51 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines, all identified throughout the newsletter. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
• Finding Waldo – this wine region’s regulations allow a portion of last year’s wine to be added to the present harvest’s yield. The wine in this release has 8% from the previous vintage, and its winemaker is the 2015 Decanter, ‘Man of the Year’. Yes, there have been a very few Decanter ‘Woman of the Year’, with Jancis Robinson the most recent in 1999.
• 5-star Wine – 2 wines earned 5-stars, found after the Main Release under New in Ontario Wineries, both premium Chardonnay from highly respected Le Clos Jordanne.
• Vic Picks – Buena Vista Chardonnay 2013 earning 4½ stars @ 23.95 under California: White Wine; Turkey Flat ‘Butcher’s Block’ Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre 2012 earning 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Australia: Red Wine and Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Chardonnay 2012 earning 4½ stars @ $30.00 under New in Ontario Wineries.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release, August 22, 2015

Feature: Wines Scoring 90 Points and Higher

 
Charles Baker ‘Picone Vineyard’ Riesling 2012
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula $35.20 (241182) 11.0% alcohol
This limited-production, artisan Riesling is highly sought after each vintage; it’s sourced from the Picone Vineyard of +30-year-old, 21-B Weiss-clone vines—this clone has produced Canada’s Best Riesling numerous times. The Picone Vineyard is found atop the Niagara escarpment—formed by an ancient sea some 400 million years ago. Aromas of citrus, minerality and wisps of green apple herald a tension-filled, laser-like beam of racy lemon, Granny Smith apple, peach and flinty notes streaking across the palate, infusing the taut, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

 
Southbrook ‘organic - triomphe’ Chardonnay 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 (172338) 13.1 % alcohol

Orchard fruit aromas interweave with hazelnut and leesy notes on the nose of this mid-plus bodied beautifully textured Chardonnay. A persistent flow of ripe apple and pear mingle with lemony citrus, minerality and grapefruit pith on the palate and lingering tangy aftertaste. Good to go now with roast pork and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

 
Featherstone ‘Onyx’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (372433) 12.5% alcohol
Featherstone delivers another quality offering with this Cab Franc/Merlot red blend. It barrels from glass—aged 18 months in 100% new French oak barrel—with heady aromas of dark berry fruit, sweet vanilla, some earthy notes and oodles of spice. Fruity flavours caress the palate with a sexy flow of black currant and bramble berry interwoven with notions of spice, dark coffee and balancing red berry acidity. This is nicely structured with medium weight, lovely mouth feel and a balanced, lingering aftertaste. Good to go now and on to 2018, it pours nicely with grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay 2013
Napa Valley, California $22.95 (136382) 13.5% alcohol
This is an elegant, stylish take on California Chardonnay showcasing deft balance and seamless integration of fruit and oak. Nutty aromas meld with pear and apple on the nose before playing out on the palate with a balanced and beautiful wash of yellow peach, ripe pear, crisp green apple and lemon curd. It’s medium-full bodied, nicely textured and sports a lengthy, fruity finish of tropical fruit and wonderful balancing acidity. It’s $5 less than you’d pay in person at this Napa winery—bless the LCBO Vintages buyer. (Vic Harradine)

Robert Young ‘Alexander Valley’ Chardonnay 2012
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California $29.95 (670430) 14.7% alcohol
Hang on to your hat when you try this, it’s full-blown Napa Chard with smoky, toasty, oaky aromas telegraphing its arrival. It coats the palate with a gorgeous surge of baking spice, buttery notes, caramel apple, poached pear and zesty lemon acidity along with notes of oak. This is full bodied and fully textured with structure, density and persistent flavours from entry to lingering, lip-smacking finish. It’s wonderful now and better in twelve months when it fully knits together. Pour with smoked, grilled chicken breasts in creamy pasta sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Pendulum Red 2011
Columbia Valley, Washington State $27.95 (46300) 13.5% alcohol
This finely tuned and nuanced red blend—Cab Sauv, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo—dishes up an interesting nose of baking spice, toast and cherry/berry aromas. There’s mid-plus weight and good mouth feel with a persistent stream of fruit flavour—black currant and dark cherry—interlaced with spice and mocha. The mid-length finish is well balanced with wisps of espresso roast. It’s pouring well now, either sip on its own or alongside grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)

Charles Smith ‘Boom Boom!’ Syrah 2013
Columbia Valley, Washington State $24.95 (301499) 13.5% alcohol
Despite the name and label, there’s no explosion and this is no fruit bomb; it’s balanced with good acidity, ripe/sweet dark berry fruit, structure and balance. Lifted aromas of mixed spice, dark Bing cherry and black currant abound. There are oodles of ripe bramble berry and sweet dark mulberry flavours interwoven with racy red currant and pie cherry on the palate, infusing the long, balanced aftertaste. It’s full bodied and wondrously textured. Pair with smoked, grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Trivento ‘Golden Reserve’ Malbec 2012

Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (588731) 14.8% alcohol

A ‘Judges’ Choice’ at the 2014 World Wine Awards of Canada, it commands standing kudos.

Luscious and dark in the glass, aromas of bitter chocolate, coffee, blackberries follow through on the palate. Strong silky tannins integrate with a little tobacco on the finish. This will pair well with hearty meat dishes and stew. (Julie Stock)

Viña Maipo ‘Gran Devoción’ Carmenère/Syrah 2012
Maule Valley, Chile $17.95 (274100) 14.5% alcohol
Sprigs of herbs and spice aromas mingle with dark berry fruit providing segue for a tangy fruity river of briary berry and red currant. This red blend is medium-plus bodied with decent texture and a racy finish of spice-infused pie cherry with a solid underpinning of still-evolving tannin. Best to decant/aerate for two hours pouring alongside a plate of spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

Willow Bridge Estate ‘Dragonfly’ Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2014
Geographe, Western Australia $16.95 (418368) 12.3% alcohol
Citrus and grassy aromas give way to a crisp, clean and refreshing wash of racy lemon-lime and hints of white grapefruit forming a delicious, balanced bond with ripe nectarine and tropical fruit. The resulting nicely textured, Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend is something Australians have done well for decades with the best part being they’ve kept a lid on the price. Aussies, and those in the know, use these as their go-to white wine, always keeping a few on hand. Now you’re in the know, you can too; it’s versatile at the table pairing with pan-seared or grilled fish and seafood, roast chicken, pork or veal. (Vic Harradine)

Two Hands ‘Brave Faces’ Grenache/Mataro/Shiraz 2012
Barossa Valley, South Australia $24.95 (660035) 14.9% alcohol
This 81% Grenache, 12.5% Syrah, 6.5% Mataro red blend is a beauty. It fills the room with heady aromas of piquant spice, mocha and dark berry fruit before enveloping the palate with a creamy-textured, medium-full bodied flow of spiced black plum, briary berry and dark bittersweet chocolate. This is structured and deftly balanced with persistent purity of fruit and great tang throughout. Give it a go with grilled back ribs and not-too-spicy, tomato-based barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Man Vintners ‘Free-Run Steen’ Chenin Blanc 2014
WO Coastal Region, South Africa $13.95 (126847) 13.5% alcohol
Steen was the name of a grape first planted in South Africa in the 1600s from cuttings brought from Europe. It was eventually identified at Stellenbosch U. in the 1960s as being identical to Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley, France. This has loads of lemon citrus notes with notions of orchard fruit on the nose. It streaks over the palate with a fairly balanced river of ripe pineapple and lemon-lime yoghurt with notes of blood orange making an appearance on the snappy, crisp finish. Serve this well chilled with prawn ceviche, crumbled chèvre over arugula tossed in olive oil or pan-seared fish under a squish of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

De Wetshof ‘Limestone Hill’ Chardonnay 2014
WO Robertson, South Africa $15.95 (419622) 13.5% alcohol
Bracing aromas of minerality and pit fruit precede a delectable wash of tropical fruit, peach and pear nicely juxtaposed to a solid line of racy tang in the form of lemon and lime. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a crisp refreshing aftertaste that’s zesty and lip-smacking. This pours well on its own and will brighten up pan-seared fish or seafood or mussels steamed in white wine… this white wine. (Vic Harradine)

Lenz Moser ‘Prestige’ Grüner Veltliner 2013
Qualitätswein, Niederösterreich, Austria $13.95 (71233) 12.5% alcohol
A unique Grüner with very little tang and acidity, this will still attract plenty of admirers, just perhaps not those looking for typical racy Austrian Grüner Veltliner. Floral, spice and notions of lemongrass on the nose, this dishes up a lovely mouthful of ripe tropical fruit, yellow peach and plum on the palate and fruit-filled finish. Serve well chilled and match to a plate of Pad Thai. (Vic Harradine)

Gérard Bertrand ‘Grand Terroir’ La Clape 2011
AOP La Clape, Coteaux de Languedoc, France $18.95 (370262) 14.0% alcohol
This hand-picked southern France, red blend—Syrah, Carignan, Mourvèdre—hails from one of the sunniest wine regions in France. Heady aromas of pipe tobacco, menthol and black currant leap from the glass. It’s mid-full weight with a smooth and mellow wash of tangy pie cherry framed by good acidity underpinned by a soft, fine-grained tannin structure. This really soars poured alongside pastitsio—here’s a recipe—or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Herdade Do Rocim Red 2011
Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal $17.95 (423574) 14.0% alcohol
Hats off to the Portuguese who resist the trend to rip up indigenous vines to produce wine from well-known international varieties—Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon et al. This red blend—Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, Syrah—dishes up heady aromas of baking spice, savory herbs and dark cherry/berry fruit. A textured, balanced wash of savory and spice-laden red and black berry fruit coat the palate supported by a solid underpinning of ripe tannin and framed by excellent acidity. Aerate/decant three hours and pour with hearty meat dishes. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

Cathedral Cellars 'Methode Cap Classique' Brut 2010

WO Western Cape, South Africa $16.95 (296426) 11.5% alcohol

Produced from a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this refined sparkling wine spent 24 months on the lees and offers a clean, crisp profile and fine, persistent mousse. Dry, light-medium bodied, it's defined by notes of almond biscuit, green apple, citrus and mineral. There's a tangy note of lemon zest on the extended, refreshingly dry finish. This is a great choice to celebrate with friends or enjoy with a light meal. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

 
Featherstone ‘Four Feathers’ 2014

VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (341586) 12.0% alcohol

Featherstone produces carefully crafted, well-made wine with purity of fruit and the quality-price balance always tipped in your favour. This off-dry white blend—Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc—coats the palate with a fully flavoured wash of tropical fruit, lemon-pie filling and notions of grilled pineapple. This is medium-full bodied with a long, fleshy, balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. It’s value-laden and you won’t go wrong picking up a few to sip or pour with lighter appetizers or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

 
Vineland Sauvignon Blanc 2013
VQA Niagara Escarpment $16.95 (551168) 12.0% alcohol
Here’s a good example of balance without compromise. It melds the herbaceous, racy components of Sauvignon Blanc with ripe delicious fruit flavour. Aromas of piquant spice, grassy notes and sprigs of herbs on the nose set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour with a solid line of lemon-lime acidity ameliorated by orchard fruit and ripe pineapple on the palate and finish. It’s medium bodied with a clean refreshing aftertaste. Pour on its own or with white pizza or crumbled feta over mesclun mix. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

 
Gray Monk Pinot Blanc 2013
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (321612) 13.3% alcohol
This scooped up a Gold Medal at the respected 2015 All Canadian Wine Championships.  Alluring aromas of exotic spice, honeyed orchard fruit and pineapple open a beautifully balanced stream of ripe pear, peach and apricot with good lemony acidity and oodles of charm. It’s mid weight with good texture and a lingering refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pour this barely off-dry beauty with spicy Asian cuisine or spice-rubbed roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

Nova Scotia: White Wine

 
Benjamin Bridge ‘Nova 7’ 2013

Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia $24.95 (256289) 7.0% alcohol

A slight peach-skin blush and heady, perfumed aromas of sweet Turkish delight, honeysuckle, exotic musky spice and lemon-lime notes open this balanced, spritzy, gem. Lime-soaked guava, blood orange and sweet, spice-laden candy apple bathe the palate infusing the lengthy finish and aftertaste. It’s summer in a glass and lip-smacking good. Pours well as an aperitif or paired with blue cheese like Blue Bénédictin. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

 
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Cabernet/Merlot 2010
VQA Short Hills Bench $24.95 (395855) 13.5% alcohol
This is structured with good depth and complexity showcasing deft balance and persistent purity of fruit. It was fermented in stainless steel with extended maceration then aged 18 months in French and American oak barrel, 40% new. Alluring aromas of wood smoke, sandalwood, berry fruit and exotic spice abound. Palate-bathing flavours of tangy red and black cherry interweave with hints of cassis and red currant. The lip-smacking, lengthy finish is fruit forward with a solid tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant three hours then pour with grilled red meat or tuck away, opening 2017 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

 
Kabang Red 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $19.95 (380022) 13.2% alcohol
Aromas of cedar and earthy notes mingle with red and dark berry fruit on the nose of this medium-full bodied, generously textured, multi-grape red blend. There’s black currant, spice, fennel and mocha on the palate, all held in the firm grip of a solid tannin underpinning. There’s good red fruit for acidity—currant and pie cherry—along with the promise of more after a three-hour aeration/decant or two more years in bottle before popping corks. (Vic Harradine)

 
Thirty Bench Red 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.00 (320986) 13.1% alcohol
Charred toast, cola and dark berry fruit aromas herald a mid-full bodied, firm and focused surge of bright, juicy red currant and passion fruit interlaced with softer mulberry and sweet vanilla. It has solid construction, good balance and no shortage of charm. The lingering finish is dry with wisps of tannin throughout. Aerate/decant this for two to three hours pouring alongside osso bucco or hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Buena Vista Chardonnay 2013
Carneros, Sonoma County $23.95 (67405) 14.5% alcohol
I’ll be lining up for this—it’s simply delicious. Smoky notes, mixed spice and citrus aromas set the table for a fruit bowl of flavours with baked apple, poached pear, baking spice and sweet vanilla to the fore. It’s medium-plus weight and creamy smooth on the palate with a lengthy finish that’s balanced and beautiful. There’s good lemon curd tang and wisps of caramel on the aftertaste. It’s not inexpensive, but is incredibly appealing. (Vic Harradine)

The Crusher Viognier 2013
Clarksburg $16.95 (361964) 13.5% alcohol
The Clarksburg AVA is close to Napa Valley and newly minted, but the Wilson family have grown grapes here since 1922. Ripe apple, musk melon and honeyed tropical fruit aromas abound. This palate-coating, balanced gem delivers a huge mouthful of flavour on the palate—grilled pineapple and honeyed tropical fruit mingle with lemon curd and notions of sugared, grilled white grapefruit. It’s medium weight with quite good mouth feel and lingering finish replaying palate flavours. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: White Wine

Grace Lane Riesling 2013
Yakima Valley $14.95 (420737) 11.5% alcohol
This off-dry Riesling offers up a nose of herbaceous notes, spice and citrus aromas. A sweet and tang mouthful of lime cordial, honeydew melon and lemongrass makes its way over the palate, infusing the mid-length aftertaste. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a crisp refreshing finish. Pour alongside pad Thai or butter chicken. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

La Crema Monterey Pinot Noir 2013
Monterey $29.95 (367896) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of earthy notes, mixed spice, cedar and red berry fruit set the stage for a delightful line of ripe fruit flavour—sweet mulberry and cherry interwoven with racy red currant, baking spice and savory notes. It’s medium bodied with satin-smooth texture, balanced with good persistence and a long aftertaste replaying palate flavours. Give this a go with smoked duck breasts or grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

King Estate ‘Signature Collection’ Pinot Noir 2013
Oregon $34.95 (470323) 13.5% alcohol
Savory herbs, cedar and baking spice aromas introduce a medium-bodied, structured and textured flow of red berry fruit interlaced with pie cherry and ripe, black plum. It’s mid weight with a balanced lingering finish showcasing mostly red fruit, excellent acidity and a soft tannin underpinning. Drink now, aerating/decanting two hours before pouring with roast chicken, turkey or pork. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

J&J Vineyards ‘Rivers Lane – Reserve’ Shiraz 2011
McLaren Vale, South Australia $33.95 (412197) 14.0% alcohol 
Peppery spice, charry notes and dark berry fruit aromas on the nose unleash a delectable, balanced flow of sweet ripe mulberry, juicy black cherry, dark bittersweet chocolate and wisps of licorice allsorts. The fruit was sourced from a single vineyard belonging to this 3rd generation family-owned winery. It’s medium-plus bodied with good texture, purity of fruit, balance and structure. How good is that? (Vic Harradine)

Turkey Flat ‘Butcher’s Block’ Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre 2012
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (90241) 14.5% alcohol
Some of the fruit here was sourced from 1847, dry-farmed bush vines. Turkey Flat is family owned and world renowned, still retaining its artisan ways producing only 20,000 cases annually. Aromas of mocha, cedar and black cherry unleash a structured, balanced and elegant flow of ripe mulberry, mixed spice and mocha. This is deftly balanced showcasing polished tannin, purity of fruit and a lingering, dry, fruity finish. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour—don’t pass this by. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Hunawihr Kuhlmann-Platz ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Gewürztraminer 2013
AOC Alsace $19.95 (169474) 13.5% alcohol
The highly perfumed nose delivers a cornucopia of aromas—rosewater, exotic spice and peach mingling with citrus and floral notes. It bathes the palate with a textured, persistent flow of honeyed apricot and sweet tropical fruit somewhat ameliorated by lemon tang and white grapefruit pith. Overall there’s plenty of fruit-driven sugary notes here making this a fine pairing for fruit flan as well as spicy Asian dishes. (Vic Harradine)

Domain Louis Moreau Chablis 2014
AOC Chablis $24.95 (124305) 12.5% alcohol
And now for something completely different; Chablis with fleshy fruit flavours dominating the palate and finish. It’s a lovely golden yellow, but saw no oak, just stainless steel. Aromas of gun flint, mineral notes and spice lead the way to a flavoured wave of ripe pear, juicy white peach and green apple on the palate infusing the fruit-filled finish with an aftertaste of grapefruit pith. This was fashioned from +30-year-old vines. (Vic Harradine)

Pascal Jolivet ‘Attitude’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014
IGP Val de Loire $19.95 (971887) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of mixed spice, sprigs of herbs and grassy notes dominate the nose. It’s fully fruited on the palate with ripe citrus notes, peach and a splash of racy white grapefruit on the finish and aftertaste. It’s medium weight with decent texture and a clean finish. It pairs and pours well with grilled fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Domaine Durieu ‘Lucile Avril’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $47.95 (295147) 15.0% alcohol
This is a gorgeous red blend showcasing fruit from 90-year-old Grenache and 60-year-old Mourvèdre vines and reasonably priced. It offers persistent purity of fruit throughout, deft balance, good structure and a lingering, luscious aftertaste. Aromas of garrigue—local wild herbs—mixed spice and black currant abound. There’s a lava flow of dark fruit flavour with a sweet edge, dense and surprisingly balanced with good tangy acidity—black briary berry and juicy black Bing cherry interweaving with a splash of pie cherry holding its own for the balance. This is full bodied and fully textured with a lingering rich aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

La Ferme du Mont ‘Le Ponnant’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2012
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $18.95 (171371) 14.5% alcohol
The back label lists the red blend as 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. The nose opens with aromas of leather, spice and red and black berry fruit. Rich, luscious fruit washes over the palate in nicely textured waves—dried currant and dark juicy cherry underpinned by smooth tannin and framed by good acidity. This is good weight with a finish that layers on mocha and baking spice. Pour with pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

Gérard Bertrand ‘Côte des Roses’ Rosé 2014
AOP Languedoc $18.95 (373985) 13.0% alcohol
Strawberry, floral and spice aromas open the door to palate-bathing flavours of red berry fruit, spice box and wisps of pink grapefruit on the clean refreshing aftertaste. It’s a delightful sipper and pairs perfectly with pan-seared salmon and charcuterie. The glass stopper can be washed and re-used—on bottles they fit—that were opened, not finished, and stored in the frig to keep them fresh for 3 or 4 days—red, Rosé or white. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Poggiobello Pinot Grigio 2013
DOC Colli Orientali del Fruili $21.95 (412734) 13.0% alcohol
There’s a sea of uninspiring Grigio out there, and this definitely is not one of them. It rolls over the palate with a nicely textured, fully flavoured stream of lemon-lime, honeyed pit fruit and hazelnut. The finish is balanced on a pin delivering replays of delectable flavour and tang. Wonderful sipped on its own, it also pours well with lighter-styled appetizers or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

S. Cristina Masoni Lugana 2014
DOC Lugana $19.95 (200097) 12.5% alcohol
Well paced, well priced and well… delicious. Aromas of piquant spice, citrus and ripe pear waft from this light-medium bodied Verdicchio. It bathes the palate with lively flavours of lime-soaked guava, grilled pineapple and plenty of tang. It finishes with more of the same and it’s lip-smacking good. You won’t go far wrong pouring this with grilled or pan-seared seafood, chèvre or scallop ceviche. This flagship white hails from Lake Garda, a touristy place at which many people ignore visiting wineries like this; their loss. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Marchesi Di Borolo ‘Ruvei’ Barbera D’Alba 2013
DOC Barbera D’Alba $19.95 (168203) 13.5% alcohol
Look for aromas of red cherry/berry and spice box on the nose; it’s lively and juicy from cork pop to last drop. Hailing from NW Italy near the city of Alba, the Barbera grape is King around these parts and was hand-picked for this gem. Racy red currant and sour cherry flavour streak across the palate with a solid line of juicy tang for company. This is medium bodied with a dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with meat-laden pizza, pasta in tomato sauce or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

Castellani Filicheto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2010

DOCG Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano $19.95 (184937) 13.5% alcohol

Susan and I were both taken with the structure and purity of fruit showcased in this wine. Involved aromas of savory spice, red and black currant, grilled herbs and pipe tobacco swirl from the glass. A rich, luscious stream of dark berry fruit, juicy black cherry and cassis coat the palate, balanced and beautiful. This offers great value along with good weight and texture and a lengthy luscious aftertaste. Pick up a few for drinking now to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

Scriani Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2010
DOCG Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $47.95 (413989) 16.0% alcohol
This is premium Amarone at a decent price given the high quality. Aromas of cherry, charred toast and mixed field berry fruit mingle with notions of licorice and tar on the nose. It flows across the palate, nicely textured and structured with blackberry, blueberry and oodles of spice. It’s stylish, balanced and pure with fine-grained tannin and good tang, both seamlessly integrated. It finishes monumentally lengthy with elegance and charm as well as palate replays and dark bittersweet chocolate on the aftertaste. It was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Delaforce Touriga Nacional 2013
DOC Douro $20.95 (324517) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of red cherry spice box and mocha abound. There’s a lively, juicy flow of red currant and pie cherry mingling with spice-infused black plum and espresso roast. It’s mid-plus weight with good mouth feel and a dry finish showcasing firm structure and more red fruit. Aerate/decant three hours before pouring with spicy chicken tajine with tomatoes, dates and figs. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: White Wine

Paco & Lola Albariño 2013

DO Rias Baixas $18.95 (350041) 12.5% alcohol

Honeyed, floral aromas abound on this top-drawer beauty from NW Spain. A crisp, refreshing wave of lemon-lime and white nectarine bathes the palate with flecks of minerality. It’s light on its feet with a great streak of tang extending through the mouth-watering finish. Great sipped on its own, it’s a go-to white for all manner of seafood. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Palacios Remondo ‘La Vendimia’ 2014
DOCa Rioja $15.95 (674564) 14.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of spice-laden cherry cola open a tapestry of palate flavours with pie cherry, ripe mulberry and piquant spice to the fore. Fruit was sourced from estate-owned 10-to 40-year-old vines, density planted, dry farmed at hi-altitude and organic since 2003 under the watchful eye of winemaker, Alvaro Palacios, Decanter’s 2015 ‘Man of the Year’. The wine is augmented with an 8% portion of the previous vintage and is a blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha. It’s tangy and juicy throughout with a very, very long aftertaste. Pair with spaghetti Bolognese or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: September 5, 2015

Domaine La Haut Févrie ‘Sur Lie’ Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2014
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine $13.95 (390625) 12.0% alcohol
Smoke, mineral and leesy notes mingle with tropical fruit on the nose of this rock-solid 4-star, value-packed beauty. It’s 100% Melon de Bourgogne from 35-year-old vines, hand harvested and left seven months on lees It bathes the palate with a generously textured stream of tropical fruit, caramel-tinted baked apple, sharp spice and lemony tang. It’s medium bodied with a lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste—crisp, clean and refreshing. Pour alongside steamed mussels or pan-seared freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)

Patrick Lesec ‘Galets Blonds’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $56.95 (78089) 15.0% alcohol
This unfined, unfiltered Grenache/Syrah red blend is gorgeous, flirting with 5 stars and awfully tough to spit. The Galets Blonds refer to rounded-boulders in the vineyards that reflect the stored heat from the sun onto the vines during the cool of the evening. Aromas from sprigs of local, wild herbs a.k.a. garrigue, exotic spice and dark berry fruit provide segue for a rich, luscious wash of black currant, juicy black cherry and dark bittersweet chocolate interlaced with black licorice and savory herbs. The lingering aftertaste replays palate flavours along with a solid lick of red berry tang. Good to go now and on to 2022, it pairs well with osso bucco or grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

• Le Clos Jordanne is a grand experiment that’s remained true to original intentions—showcasing the similarities between Niagara and Burgundy while retaining the uniqueness of the individual terroir of Niagara. Three of the four Chardonnay are sourced from single-vineyard fruit in the VQA sub-appellation of Twenty Mile Bench. The fourth, ‘Village Reserve’, has fruit from these vineyards as well as from the nearby sub-appellation of Vinemount Ridge. The original initiative for this was spearheaded by Inniskillin’s co-founders, Don Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser then fully supported when Vincor took over Inniskillin with Thomas Bachelder as winemaker—the first vintage was 2004. It’s now owned and showcased by Constellation Brands with the winemaking torch passed to Sebastien Jacquey in 2010 when Thomas Bachelder departed—Sebastien had been assistant to Bachelder since 2007. Le Clos Jordanne is recognized as a premium producer of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at home and abroad. Reviews of the most recent Chardonnay release follow.

• Order the following wine for weekday home, office or restaurant delivery with no bottle minimum, online at La Clos Jordanne.

 
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2011 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $40.00 (33910) 14.0% alcohol 
Alluring aromas of baked apple, pit fruit and mixed spice herald a medium-full bodied, well-defined, rich river of flavour with ripe peach, tropical fruit and lemon pie filling garnished with spicy oak and mineral notes. This single-vineyard gem is structured and powerful with creamy smooth mouth feel and a balanced, lingering, refreshing, aftertaste. This is charming sipped on its own or poured with roast pork or fowl. (Vic Harradine)

 
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Claystone Terrace’ Chardonnay 2012 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $40.00 (56929) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of baking spice, distinct floral notes, minerality and lime cordial provide segue for a stunning, involved surge of marzipan, lemon yoghurt and exotic spice. This is an elegant, powerful wine wrapped in a silky cocoon—it’s mid-full weight with glorious mouth feel, persistent purity of fruit, good balance and a monumental, lip-smacking aftertaste. According to winemaker, Sebastien Jacquey, it’ll improve over the next three to five years, gaining in balance and complexity—it’s not to be missed. (Vic Harradine)

 
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Grand Clos’ Chardonnay 2011 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $65.00 (34561) 14.0% alcohol
This opens with heady aromas of ripe peach and pear with tangy lemon robed in baking spice, oak and mineral notes. It bathes the palate with a spice-infused wash of poached pear and racy citrus mingling with flinty/mineral notes and notions of toasted almond. Medium-full bodied with good mouth feel, this showcases persistent purity of fruit, good structure, judicious oak regimen, deft balance and oodles of charm persisting through the lengthy finish—huge kudos to winemaker, Sebastien Jacquey. (Vic Harradine)

 
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Chardonnay 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.00 (33936) 13.5% alcohol 
Tropical fruit, citrus and apple on the nose, this coats the palate with a delectable flow of nectarine, yellow plum and crisp, green apple flavour. It’s mid-weight with good texture, balanced and fully integrated with a charming lip-smacking finish and aftertaste featuring sweet orchard fruit perfectly juxtaposed with tangy acidity. I suspect many/most readers will find this incredibly enjoyable given its full-fruit flavour and drink-me-now style. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

• Order the following wine by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery. Free delivery in the GTA or delivered to your local LCBO for pick up. Order from VIP Wine and Spirits via email to Dave Coutts This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

Barão de Vilar Vinho Tinto 2013
DOC Dão, Portugal $12.95 13.0% alcohol
Winemaker, Álvaro van Zeller, trained at a premium Port house, Quinta do Noval, and it's reflected here in the wine quality and Port grape varieties—Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira, Jaen. Piquant spice-infused aromas of cherry and cinnamon set the table for a feast of flavour with black plum, tart cherry and dried berry fruit. It’s medium-bodied with good texture, well balanced and fruit forward. There’s good acidity on the tangy, lip-smacking, lingering finish and very good structure throughout. It punches well above the price and pours well with all manner of meat you pull from your grill. Pick up a few of these. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic, Susan, Julie