July 21, 2015 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

• Exceptional value wine   –6 of 69 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines and are easily identified throughout the newsletter priced between $12.90 and $17.95—3 appear after the Main Release. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
• Finding Waldo – be certain to pick up this value-laden Niagara Peninsula ‘Reserve’ white wine with its pink-ish hue—it’s a mutant clone of Pinot Noir, 4½ stars at $19.95.
• 5-star Wine – 4 wines rang the 5-star bell with 3 appearing after the Main Release.
• Susan Selects – Jean-Max Roger ‘Cuvée les Caillottes’ Sancerre 2013 earning 4 ½ stars at $26.95 and found under France: White Wine.
• Julie’s Gem – Paxton AAA Shiraz/Grenache 2012 with 4 ½ stars at $19.95 found under Australia: Red Wine
• Vic Picks – Château Brandeau 2010 earning 4 stars at $16.95 and found under France: Red Wine.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: July 25, 2015

Feature: Argentine Wine

Valle Las Acequias ‘Oak’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Mendoza, $16.95 (287516) 13.0% alcohol
The Correas family arrived in Mendoza at the end of the 16th C planting vines in 1860, 4th generation family members still own and manage the winery. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon has it all. Aromas of cedar and pencil shavings—it aged ten months in French oak—precede palate-coating layers of luscious, gutsy ripe plum, blackberry and blueberry flavour. It’s velvety with soft tannin and a long, fruit-laden, spice-filled finish. Colour it … nirvana. This is deserving of fine quality steak with piquant horseradish. (Julie Stock)

Kaiken Terroir Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Mendoza $15.95 (384305) 14% alcohol
This has loads of dark fruit flavours from a hand-harvested, hand-sorted red blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 8% Petit Verdot with 50% of fruit aged 10 months in seasoned French oak barrel. It’s richly layered with ripe dark berries lending to a little sweetness on the palate. It has lots of structure, soft tannin and a dark chocolate, Christmas-cake spice finish—yum. Braised meat would be a perfect accompaniment. (Julie Stock)

Pascual Toso ‘Barrancas Vineyards – Reserve’ Malbec 2012
Mendoza $19.95 (183897) 14.0% alcohol
There are heady aromas of dark berry fruit on the nose and it’s quite fruit forward on the palate with massive layers of flavour lending to the juiciness. It’s medium-full bodied with a little smokiness and hints of vanilla on the long, fruity finish. This winery began in 1890 with fruit for this wine sourced from 30 to 50-year-old vines then aged 12 months in oak—80% American, 20% French. It’s fabulous with grilled gourmet sausage. (Julie Stock)

Desierto ‘25’ Cabernet Franc 2012
Patagonia $16.95 (414201) 14.5%alcohol
This is ruby in colour with aromatics of a vegetable garden; green pepper and asparagus, plus a whiff of lavender. It’s medium bodied with fruit flavours opening up in the glass—red berry and cassis garnished with herbal notes on the palate persisting through the mid-length finish. You’d be well served to pair with heartier fare—osso bucco or cassoulet would do nicely. (Julie Stock)

Feature: Greek Wine

Ktima ‘Gerovassiliou’ White 2014
PGI Epanomi $18.95 (999714) 13.5% alcohol
PGI and PDO are EU agricultural designations that are now in place. Ripe pear, honeyed and floral notes abound heralding a solid line of tangy lemon-lime flavour washing over the palate infusing the lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and deft balance throughout. Pour with steamed mussels, grilled calamari or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

Robola Cooperative of Cephalonia ‘San Gerasimo’ 2014
PDO Robola of Cephalonia $16.95 (420182) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of orchard fruit and slate/minerality introduce a delightful stream of flavour with ripe white nectarine, pear and apple to the fore along with wisps of racy citrus. It’s medium bodied with good texture finishing clean, crisp and refreshing. The indigenous Robola grape—from altitudes varying from 1000 to 2000 feet—was used to produce this wine. Robola grape vines were first planted here over a century ago. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Tsantali ‘Reserve’ 2010
PDO Naoussa $16.95 (209627) 13.5% alcohol
This 100% Xinomavro—an indigenous red grape—is nicely balanced and fruit-forward with good tang throughout. Aromas of red and black berry fruit garnished with tapenade and hints of mocha precede a nicely balanced river of dark berry fruit, sweet vanilla and racy passion fruit. It’s medium weight with a mid-length fruity finish robed in good tang and soft tannin. Pour with grilled steak, gourmet sausage or lamb kebabs. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Champagne

Charles Heidsieck ‘Brut Réserve’ Champagne

AOC Champagne $69.95 (36962) 12.0% alcohol

From the house made famous by ‘Champagne Charlie’, this blossoms forth with a bouquet of baking brioche, tree fruit and an endless stream of fine-bead bubbles adorned with crisp, lip-smacking flavour. Golden yellow-hued, there’s a lovely array of lively refreshing flavours with zesty citrus, mineral notes and white peach to the fore. One can never go far wrong with a bottle of this and freshly shucked oysters. As Champagne prices go, this offers great value. (Vic Harradine) 

Sparkling Wine

Bailly Lapierre ‘Réserve’ Crémant de Bourgogne Non-Vintage

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (991562) 12.0% alcohol 

An almost transparent straw colour, this lovely sparkler has delicate aromas of pear, green apple and brioche. It’s quite rich and fruity on the palate—tree fruit in particular with a citrus note—and the mousse is soft and creamy. This is finely balanced, well crafted and quite flavourful. An underlying minerality and fresh fruity acidity persist on the finish. This is good value. (Susan Desjardins)

Château Moncontour ‘Tête de Cuvée Brut’ Vouvray Non-Vintage

AOC Vouvray $17.95 (207936) 12.0% alcohol 

This bubbly opens with a lovely nose of citrus, leesy notes and honeyed, pit fruit aromas. A profusion of bubbles carry nutty nuances and yeasty bits interlacing with racy lemon zest and juicy white nectarine. It’s medium weight with a creamy smooth texture and crisp, refreshing, lip-smacking-good aftertaste. This is very good value and worth picking up a few to keep chilled for when friends unexpectedly drop by. (Vic Harradine)

Cleto Chiarli e Figli ‘Vecchia Modena’ Premium Lambrusco di Sorbara Non-Vintage
DOC Emilia-Romana $19.95 (416024) 11.0% alcohol
This flows from the bottle in a froth of cranberry pink, the aromas and flavours true to the fruit, with added notes of strawberry/rhubarb, sour cherry and earth. The fine mousse and vibrant fruit flavours duel with an edgy acidity that adds a sharp yet pleasantly refreshing note to the wine. Clean and tangy, you’ll want to chill this well and pull it out on a hot summer afternoon, to sip or serve with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

Morando Moscato d’Asti 2014
DOCG Moscato d’Asti $14.95 (420844) 5.5% alcohol
Off-dry, this delicate, frothy wine offers delightful aromas of honeysuckle and tropical fruit salad. A fine, mouth-filling mousse teases the palate heightening the flavours of ripe grapes. Clean, refined acidity balances the natural fruit sweetness and delivers a fruity, fresh finish. Serve well chilled with soft cheese and a fruit platter. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

Cave Spring ‘Estate Bottled’ Gewürztraminer 2012

VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (302059) 14.0% alcohol

Lychee, tangerine and pit fruit aromas herald a spic-laden wash of rosewater and white peach interweaving with lemon grass and racy citrus acidity. It’s medium bodied and quite nicely textured with a dry, balanced and beautiful, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste garnished with the delightful tell-tale bite of well-made Gewürzt.. Pick up a couple serving with smoked salmon and a cream cheese-smeared bagel. (Vic Harradine)

  
Fielding ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (164491) 12.5% alcohol

The price-quality balance here tips in your favour. Racy citrus and piquant spice aromas provide segue for a delectable wash of tangy lemon-lime and poached pear mingling with spiced apple crumble. It’s light-medium bodied with nice texture and a crisp, refreshing finish. It pours well with grilled chicken strips over Caesar salad. (Vic Harradine)

  
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling 2012

VQA Short Hills Bench $17.95 (557165) 11.5% alcohol

Pale straw, this wine offers lovely mineral notes mingling with orchard fruit and citrus. Dry, medium bodied, dashing clean acidity underlines the flavours of lime zest, ripe apple and pear. The fine silky texture and crisp refreshing finish make it a must-have wine and a great choice for ham or turkey. Pick up a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Trius ‘Divine’ White 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (54957) 12.5% alcohol
Equal parts Riesling and Pinot Gris are blended with Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay to create a light and lively wine offering subtle, spicy floral aromas weaving through notes of stone and tropical fruit. Dry, round and silky, the backbone of lively acidity frames zesty flavours of citrus and crisp orchard fruit married to notes of spice and hints of sweet Niagara peach. Serve this on its own or with seafood, well chilled. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

  
Coyote’s Run Cabernet/Merlot 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (26757) 13.0% alcohol
Opaque ruby, this blend of the Cabernets and Merlot delivers a medley of intense aromas—ripe dark fruit and vanilla, campfire smoke and cinnamon toast. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s smooth, velvety and balanced. The structure is finely honed, a counterpoint to a dense core of sweet ripe fruit layered on the notes of spice, smoke and toast. This lingers on the finish, offering lovely weight and fruit flavour. A great value and a good match for grilled rib-eye. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Lailey Merlot 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (591396) 13.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, the heady aromas of this well-crafted red combine sun-ripened berry and plum with a whisper of smoke, vanilla and a whiff of earth. Dry, medium-full bodied, there’s keenly defined balance here, perceptible yet ripe tannin and clean acidity paired with ripe, dark fruit flavour—plum, black cherry and berry to the fore. Pleasant spicy notes resonate through the fresh, extended finish. Serve with herbed grilled chicken thighs. (Susan Desjardins)

  
The Good Earth Gamay Noir 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (424317) 12.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent, with a garnet hint to its ruby hue, the winery’s opening salvo showcases a classic grape variety of Niagara, offering an appealing nose of ripe berries and earth. Dry, light-medium bodied, ripe tannin strut their stuff, matching fresh acidity and tangy flavours of red currant and raspberry. Notes of roasted red peppers, smoke and fresh-turned earth add depth and complexity. Well balanced and flavourful, you’ll enjoy pairing this wine with a warm salad featuring grilled salmon and freshly-picked Ontario green beans. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Silver Label’ Pinot Noir 2013
Monterey County $24.95 (47720) 13.5% alcohol
Spice and herbs on the nose, this lighter-styled Pinot Noir dishes up a solid line of tangy fruit flavour—red currant and pie cherry balanced with spice-laden espresso roast and juicy black plum. It’s light-medium bodied with a balanced and lingering finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside roast chicken or pulled pork. (Vic Harradine)

Pedroncelli ‘Bushnell Vineyard’ Zinfandel 2012
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $24.95 (463026) 14.8% alcohol
The Bushnell family planted vines in 1945 and still tend them, this Zin reflects the fabulous 2012 vintage with lovely aromas of peppery spice, floral notes and ripe, dark berry fruit. It spent 14 months in American oak barrel with 35% new. Black Bing cherry and briary berry mingle with bittersweet chocolate and wisps of desiccated coconut flavour on the palate and lingering aftertaste. It’s nicely structured with good purity of fruit. (Vic Harradine)

Silenus Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $69.95 (422394) 14.5% alcohol
Silenus was mentor and sidekick of Dionysus, the Greek God of wine. Aromas of currant and cherry mingle with sweet vanilla on the nose of this structured Napa Cab—it spent 22 months in oak barrel of which 40% was new French and 10% new American. Flavours of red and black cherry and black plum framed by good tang and structure wash over the palate in seamless waves. This is medium-plus bodied and nicely textured with a long finish of fruit, bittersweet chocolate and dark coffee. (Vic Harradine)

Stags’ Leap Winery Merlot 2011
Napa Valley $39.95 (655399) 13.7% alcohol
This generously fruited red is smooth and mellow with oodles of charm. Baking spice and dark berry fruit aromas announce a medium-full bodied, generously textured tapestry of flavour—cassis, bramble berry and black plum compote robed in lively tang, underpinned by soft tannin bathing the palate, infusing the lingering, balanced aftertaste. This is a great price—at today’s exchange rate you’d pay more in the winery’s tasting room. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

Pietro Marini Torrontés 2013
Salta, $12.95 (408443) 13.2% alcohol
The Argentine signature Torrontes grape seldom disappoints. This has pale-golden colour and an aromatic nose of white flowers and fruit. Harvested at a cool 1750 feet above sea level gives this wine a distinct refreshing character with its backbone of fresh acidity, pear and lime flavour on the palate and aftertaste. It’s a wonderful light-bodied white wine; great on its own or with grilled seafood. (Julie Stock)

Chile - Reds

Casa Silva Los Lingues ‘Gran Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Colchagua Valley, $15.95 (640870) 14.0% alcohol
On the nose there’s layered red and black berries with intriguing notes of wood and tobacco. It’s medium bodied with good backbone and a hint of green pepper infusing the dark berry fruit on the palate. There’s noticeable tannin on the bone-dry finish. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving. This is a juicy burger wine. (Julie Stock)

Australia: White Wine

D’Arenberg ‘The Stump Jump’ White 2014
McLaren Vale $14.95 (922203) 11.8% alcohol
Good value, this unusual blend features Riesling combined with Sauvignon Blanc, Marsanne and Roussanne. The aromas are subtle—floral, citrusy and reminiscent of fresh-cut orchard fruit. Fresh and fruity, tangy lemon notes fuse with the flavours of orchard fruit and hints of green herbs. Lively acidity assures a clean, refreshing finish. Chill to serve with appetizers or light salads. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia - Reds

d’Arenberg ‘d’Arry’s Original’ Shiraz/Grenache 2010 

McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (942904) 14.1% alcohol 

Rich and complex aromas abound—rose petals, wood smoke, black licorice and dried currants—heralding a balanced, structured river of black raspberry, dark bittersweet chocolate, blueberry and oodles of tangy acidity. It’s medium bodied with very good texture. The long lip-smacking finish and aftertaste sports supple tannin and deft balance. Pair with roast leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

 
Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz 2012

Victoria $35.95 (243592) 13.5% alcohol

Cooler-climate Victoria produces Aussie Shiraz one might mistake for Rhône Valley Syrah. A tang-infused stream of sour cherry and pomegranate showers the palate interlaced with campfire smoke and pungent herbs. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a mid-length aftertaste of herbs, spice and red berry fruit. Good to go now with grilled lamb chops and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

Grant Burge '5th Generation' Shiraz 2013
Australia $18.95 (361295) 14.0% alcohol
This 5th generation, family winery never misses the mark and the price-quality balance here tips well in your favour. It’s a fruit-forward Shiraz, dense-purple hued and loaded with opulent ripe plum and black fruit from start to finish. Some woodsy aromas appear with rich fruit on the nose. There’s ripe tannin with sweet spice and a little menthol on the finish. Grilled lamb chops would be a perfect accompaniment. (Julie Stock)

Paxton AAA Shiraz/Grenache 2012
McLaren Vale $19.95 (149898) 14.0% alcohol
A dense opaque ruby-coloured red blend with a profound nose of floral and fruit aromas emerge from this biodynamic beauty. It displays generous ripe black cherry, raspberry and plum creating mouth-watering, layered flavours. It’s full bodied with rounded tannin finishing with a little white pepper on the monumental finish. Kebabs of pork, beef, lamb or any combination would be a great match. Paxton is a premium winery and this oozes good value. (Julie Stock)

• Winecurrent subscribers purchasing Australian wine may be familiar with the link to Australia First Families of Wine – see link below. These Australian wineries are a select group of twelve, multi-generational Australian wine families representing 17 wine-growing regions and 48 generations of winemakers. All have the ability to offer a tasting of over 20 vintages of a flagship wine, show ownership of an established +50-year-old vineyard and employ world-class environmental practices. In my opinion, they offer dessert, red and white wine with ‘sense of place’, something not often found in mass-produced wine. Vic Harradine

Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir 2012
Tasmania $29.95 (411512) 13.0% alcohol
Owned by Brown Brothers, they are one of the select Australia’s First Families of Wine. This deep-cherry coloured gem has full blown flavours of raspberry and sour cherries.
It’s quite tart which makes it mouth-watering from the excellent acidity. It has slightly vegetal, dusty, earthy tones on the palate. It’s light-bodied and smooth with a fruity finish and aftertaste. Pull out the fishing tackle, mate; salmon’s a match. (Julie Stock)

New Zealand: White Wine

Momo Pinot Gris 2014
Marlborough $19.95 (163535) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a gem—hand harvested, wild-yeast fermented and partially aged in French barrique. Golden, honeyed, the nose entices with notes of peach, orchard fruit and toasted hazelnut. Dry, medium bodied, the wine shows good weight and roundness. Clean acidity balances ripe fruit while a touch of spice adds zip to the full-flavoured finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2013

Marlborough, South Island $22.95 (735043) 13.0% alcohol

Aromas of minerality, savory herbs and piquant spice herald a light-medium bodied wash with oodles of tang—racy lime, tang-laden lemon zest interlace with sharp spicy notes—on the palate. It finishes dry, crisp and refreshing. Pour with arugula salad under olive oil and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

Squealing Pig Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough $21.95 (414789) 13.5% alcohol
Your nose really perks up with the strong citrus aromas of lime and pineapple. There’s a truckload of green apple and stone fruit on the palate making it interesting for a Sauvignon Blanc. It’s so fresh and racy with a slightly herbaceous edge it almost makes you squeal with delight on the finish. (Julie Stock)

Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Marlborough $19.95 (919514) 13.5% alcohol
This is hugely aromatic with aromas of white grapefruit and loads of gooseberry. There are copious amounts of green grassy flavours on the palate with racy, refreshing citrus from start to finish. Dry to slightly off dry, it’s a well made Sauvignon Blanc delivering mouthfuls of smooth, light, vibrant wine. It’s a fabulous aperitif wine or pair with creamy snacks—try Chia chips and hummus for a delightful treat. (Julie Stock)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Seven Terraces Pinot Noir 2013
Canterbury $19.95 (414307) 12.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, there’s great value available from this dry, approachable medium-bodied wine. The tantalizing aromas include bright cherry and berry overlain by wisps of spice and smoke. The silky texture, supple tannin and clean acidity offer a fine frame for juicy red fruit touched by sweet spice, vanilla and earth. Dry and long on the finish, this is a match for pork, grilled chicken or salmon. Load up the wagon! (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Wolfberger ‘Signature’ Muscat 2013
AOC Alsace $16.95 (408211) 11.5% alcohol
Pale gold, lovely and light, this offers the classic aroma of fresh table grapes and pear mingling with hints of honeysuckle and rose petal. Deliciously off-dry and round in texture, the sweet fruit flavours are balanced by well-defined, complementary acidity. Deftly crafted, subtle and tasty, this offers a delightful, clean, fruity finish. Try it with prosciutto and melon. (Susan Desjardins)

Henri de Villamont ‘Prestige Bourgogne’ Chardonnay 2007
AOC Bourgogne $19.95 (416123) 13.0% alcohol
A unique nose of vanilla, floral notes, apricot and notions of butter provide segue to a balanced and tangy wash of lemon pie filling and white peach bathing the palate—medium weight and beautifully textured. It finishes clean and refreshing. Pour alongside Caesar salad garnished with grilled strips of chicken breast. (Vic Harradine)

Jean-Max Roger ‘Cuvée les Caillottes’ Sancerre 2013
AOC Sancerre $26.95 (65573) 12.5% alcohol
Bold and bright, the intense aromas invade the nose—crisp green apple, pear, passion fruit, fresh herbs and lemongrass. Bone dryand medium bodied, a spine of vibrant, palate-cleansing acidity frames sharp, tasty citrus and apple skin flavours. A clean mineral note adds depth emphasizing the notes of citrus zest that power through the tangy finish. This is a consistently good wine that will delight adventuresome first timers and aficionados alike. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

 
Château Brandeau 2010 

AOC Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux $16.95 (351973) 14.0% alcohol 

Aromas of sandalwood, smoky notes and roasted red peppers interlace with mixed field berry fruit on the nose. It’s medium bodied with smooth texture bursting with red and black berry fruit, cassis and mocha on the palate replaying on the mid-length aftertaste. This pairs well with grilled lamb chops and offers good value. (Vic Harradine)

Château Pesquié ‘Terrasses’ 2013
AOC Côtes du Ventoux $17.95 (652313) 14.0% alcohol
The heady nose dishes up aromas of freshly crushed grapes and roasted herbs opening up a textured tapestry of black currant, dark chocolate and piquant, peppery spice flavour on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering dry finish of red currant and lip-smacking tang. Pour with pasta puttanesca or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

• The ‘AOP’ in the next wine can be thought of as a revised interpretation of the French AOC system (that’s being gradually phased out) applying to all EU countries plus specific bi-lateral agreements reached with some non-EU countries e.g. Canada, with protection for Geographical Indications like Okanagan Valley and Niagara Peninsula.

Domaine Chante Cigale Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012
AOP Châteauneuf-du-Pape $44.95 (194993) 15.0% alcohol
This opens with aromas of grilled herbs, piquant spice and dark berry fruit. It’s a blend—70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Carignan—wild-yeast fermented in stainless steel tanks then aged in a combination of small 225L barriques and well-seasoned 900L foudres. The mid-plus weight and firm mouth feel complement a generous, palate-coating wash of red and black cherry interwoven with peppery spice and a solid tannin underpinning. It finishes long, dry and fruity. Very well priced, given the quality, it’s versatile at the table—pour with grilled red meats, roasts and hearty meat dishes. (Vic Harradine)

Tessellae ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Carignan 2013
IGP Côtes Catalanes $17.95 (343509) 14.0% alcohol
This superb Wine of the Month offers terrific value. Aromas of black licorice, tar and sweet vanilla mingling with dark cherry/berry fruit set the stage for a crowd-pleasing, hedonistic, palate-coating surge of black berry and ripe, juicy mulberry on the palate. It’s medium-plus bodied, nicely structured and balanced on a pin with generous texture and long drying finish garnished with vanilla and bramble berry. It’s good to go now to 2018—pour alongside what you pull off your grill. Tuck a few of these away. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosè Wine

Miraval Rosé 2014
AP Côtes de Provence $22.95 (342584) 13.0% alcohol
This wine proves the point that you just can’t go wrong with Provençal rosé. Lifted aromas of red berries, citrus and a touch of spice seize your attention. Pale rose in hue, the delicate red fruit flavours replay on the light, refreshingly dry palate. Bright, clean and juicy, it’s a great choice to enjoy with pasta salad, or on its own. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Rosé Wine

Catemario ‘Collezione Privata’ Pinot Grigio Rosé 2014
IGT Delle Venezie $14.95 (409797) 12.5% alcohol
Pale peach, this rosé is just off dry offering a whiff of stone fruit and strawberry rhubarb on the nose. The flavours are true on the palate with a backbone of acidity offering pleasant tang and juiciness through the refreshing finish. Chill well, sip on its own or serve with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: Red Wine

Pegos Claros 2010

DOC Palmela $15.95 (385252) 14.0% alcohol

Pick up a few at this wonderful price, serving with grilled red meat—steaks, chops, roasts or burgers. It’s steeped in tradition—hand picked, foot trodden and fermented in open cement lagars from 40-year-old vines of the indigenous grape, Castelão. Lively aromas of baking spice—brief oak ageing—and field berries lead to a firm, delectable wash of red and black cherry and currant mingling with flecks of minerality, mint and spice. It’s medium-plus weight with creamy mouth feel and a lick of soft, fine-grained tannin on the finish—aerate/decant a couple of hours. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Lealtanza ‘Reserva’ 2009

DOCa Rioja $20.95 (208223) 14.0% alcohol

Savoury herbs, and red cherry aromas set the table for a feast of creamy-smooth, well-textured seam of sweet, ripe mulberry and bramble berry melding in harmony with racy red currant and sour cherry. It’s balanced on a pin with good acidity, supple tannin and promise of even better things to come with 12 months more years in bottle. Can’t wait? Aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

López De Haro Crianza 2008

DOCa Rioja $14.95 (377481) 13.5% alcohol

This is tight and tart throughout with tangy flavour on the palate and a dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s light on its feet with sour cherry and cranberry streaking over the palate garnished with savory herbs and notions of dried currants. Pour with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

* the following four wines from Ornellaia e Masseto were tasted with Alessandro Lunardi, Director, North America at the über-popular Italian restaurant, La Roma, on Preston street in Little Italy, Ottawa. He explained their philosophy of producing wine with sense of place and striving for balance, first in the vineyard, taking what nature gives each vintage, then meticulously nurturing that from vine to wine. Ornellaia was one of the early, true Super Tuscans and maintains its iconic status via the above.

Classics Catalogue: Fall 2015

Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia 2013
IGT Toscana Bianco $54.95 (992354) 13.0% alcohol
Harvest began on August 23 concluding September 28, the latest ever at Ornellaia. Fruit was triaged by hand picking—69% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Viognier, 12% Vermentino, 7% Verdicchio—at optimum, balanced ripeness. Smoky, mineral/flinty and floral aromas herald an elegant, textured wash of sweet and tang—honeyed apricot and juicy Mirabelle plum interlace with Meyer lemon and racy passion fruit. It’s rich, luscious and balanced on a pin with persistence of fruit throughout the lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: October 31, 2015

Le Volte dell’Ornellaia 2013

IGT Toscana $29.95 (964221) 13.5% alcohol
Perennially a great buy in terms of the price-quality ratio, this red blend—50% Merlot, 30% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon—leaps from the glass with aromas of baking spice, dark berry fruit and floral notes of lilac. Balanced, palate-bathing flavours of mint-infused black currant and black plum mingle with tangy red currant and mocha persisting through the lengthy, fruit-filled aftertaste. Drinking now, it pours and pairs well with grilled rack of lamb or grilled beef steak. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages (and currently on shelves)

Tenuta dell’Ornellaia ‘Ornellaia’ 2011

DOC Bolgheri Superiore $189.95 (722470) 14.5% alcohol

This is a well-structured red blend—primarily Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot—showcasing complexity, purity of fruit and great promise for the patient collector. Rich aromas of rose petals, cedar, dark berry fruit and exotic incense billow from this full-bodied, firm and concentrated beauty. Black currant, cassis and sweet, ripe mulberry coat the palate melding with a solid tannin underpinning, framed by excellent tang. Think about opening 2020 to 2030. (Vic Harradine)

• very few bottles remain in select stores of the following wine—there’ll be even fewer after I purchase mine).

Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2012

DOC Bolgheri Rosso $59.95 (606194) 14.5% alcohol

This fabulous red blend of international varieties—52% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Franc—was hand harvested, hand sorted, with each varietal fermented and aged separately – a total of 15 months in French oak barrels with 25% new and the balance one-year old. It streams from the glass with aromas of dark berry fruit, rose petals and roasted herbs. Fresh, lively flavours spill across the palate with black currant and briary berry, graphite and black licorice to the fore. It’s full bodied and generously textured with a monumentally lengthy, fruity aftertaste. Drink 2016-2022 or aerate/decant for three hours now and pour with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
DO Colchagua Valley, Chile $19.95 (322586) 13.5% alcohol
Montes is a very well-respected producer of quality Chilean wine. Dark ripe berry fruit, pipe tobacco and savoury herb aromas herald a delicious river of ripe mulberry and bramble berry garnished with spice-infused black licorice and sweet vanilla. It’s medium bodied with excellent mouth feel and a balanced and beautiful finish. It shows good structure and pours well with grilled strip loin or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

Susana Balbo ‘Crios’ Torrontes 2014
Argentina $13.95 (1834) 14.0% alcohol
If you’ve never tried this varietal, you might want to start with this. It has a heady nose and a torrent of aromas reminiscent of Muscat or Moscato d’Asti—exotic spice, grapey, floral notes. It bathes the palate with a racy river of lime cordial and lemon curd garnished with a pineapple and grapefruit. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with a crisp, clean refreshing finish. Pour alongside ceviche, sashimi or white pizza with plenty of chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

Inniskillin ‘Reserve’ Pinot Gris 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance here tips wildly in your favour. A lightly pink-tinged hue speaks to this hand-harvested Pinot Gris’ suspected heritage as mutant clone of Pinot Noir. Aromas of honey and floral notes interlace with yellow peach and apricot. A glorious, creamy-smooth tapestry of flavours surge over the palate with ripe pit fruit and tangy citrus intermingling with piquant spice and wisps of grapefruit pith persisting through the lengthy, balanced and beautiful aftertaste. It’s medium-plus bodied, nicely structured with good purity of fruit. Versatile at the table, pair with roast bird, pork roast, grilled fish or steamed mussels. Also available in Wine Rack stores and at the Niagara-on-the-Lake winery. (Vic Harradine)

  
Jackson-Triggs ‘Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (58438) 13.0% alcohol
The harvest was triaged with fruit picked at various times to develop its full potential—it’s a great sipper at a terrific price. There are aromas of lime, piquant spice and notions of gooseberry on the nose. It washes over the palate with mellow and smooth flavours of lime cordial, herbs and hints of pomegranate, medium weight and nicely textured with a long, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste—all good. (Vic Harradine)

  
Lavau Côtes de Rhône Villages 2011
AOC Côtes de Rhône Villages $12.90 (421024) 13.5% alcohol
This hand-harvested red blend of Syrah and Grenache offers aromas of red and black berry fruit, garrigue—local wild herbs—and wisps of cola. It dishes up a tangy stream of sweet field berry fruit and black plum, medium weight with good texture and fruit-forward finish robed in piquant spice and notions of herbs. Good to go now with gourmet sausage, pizza or spicy wings. (Vic Harradine)

Wairau River ‘Riverlore’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough, New Zealand $15.90 (417600) 12.5% alcohol
Sharp aromas of green nettles and white pepper meld with herbal notes and wisps of struck flint. It smooths out nicely on the palate retaining some of the herbal and grassy notes along with a seamless interlace with citrus and lime-soaked guava. It’s medium bodied with good texture and deft balance on the palate and through the refreshing aftertaste. This is very good value and pours well with the usual suspects—fish and seafood, mild blue-veined cheese and chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

Robert Oatley ‘Wild Oats’ Pinot Grigio 2014
Mudgee, Australia $15.95 (399121) 12.5% alcohol
Bob Oatley was/is a feisty sailor gaining the nickname ‘Wild Oats’ from which he named his boat, Wild Oats Xl, winning the iconic Sydney to Hobart Yacht race in record-breaking time. The delicate aromas of honey, floral notes and soft pit fruit open the door to a flood of flavour with honeyed peach and tangy lemon interweaving with green apple and pear. It’s light-medium bodied with a balanced finish and aftertaste, finishing clean and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

* Order the Grand Reserve Meritage for home, office or restaurant delivery in Ontario online from Jackson-Triggs or pick up at the winery on Stone Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake.

  
Jackson-Triggs ‘Grand Reserve’ Meritage 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 13.5% alcohol
This is rich, luscious and elegant showcasing balance and great purity of fruit. It’s a red blend of 35% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in oak for 15 months with only the best barrels selected for this. It opens with aromas of smoky/toasty notes with red berry and roasted herbs chiming in. It flows over the palate smooth and mellow with flavours of ripe briary berry and juicy black cherry to the fore. This is medium bodied with a lingering, lip-smacking finish. Very classy, indeed. (Vic Harradine)

  
Jackson-Triggs ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay Musqué - Sparkling Wine 2014
VQA Ontario $17.95 8.5% alcohol
At present, this is available only in Wine Rack stores and recently won a Gold Medal at the All Canadian Wine Championships. Produced by Méthode Cuve Close —2nd fermentation was completed in tank then immediately transferred to bottle capturing millions of frothy bubbles with refreshing flavour and acidity. A medium-sweet wash of peach, pear and grilled, sugared white grapefruit bathe the palate and infuse the finish. It’s summer in a glass and ready for sipping or pairing with fresh fruit salad. (Vic Harradine)
 
• Inniskillin - The history and present success of the entire Ontario wine industry are inextricably entwined with Inniskillin Wines. Co-founders, Donald Ziraldo, and winemaker, Karl Kaiser, were granted an Ontario winery license in 1975, the first granted since prohibition—repealed in Ontario in 1927 at the same time as the formation of the LCBO. 




Inniskillin went from strength to strength via Ziraldo’s prescient vine selection and vine management regime plus his indefatigable marketing efforts, along with Kaiser’s outstanding winemaking talent. Their Inniskillin1989 Vidal icewine thrust Canada onto the world wine stage as recipient of a Grand Prix d’Honneur at Vinexpo in Bordeaux in 1991. Ziraldo was also a prime mover and founding chair of VQA—minted in 1989. 


Both Kaiser and Ziraldo retired from the day-to-day work of running Inniskillin over a decade ago. Inniskillin continues to be an exciting force in the industry with strong initiatives in both Niagara and the Okanagan Valley with two winemakers, world-renowned Bruce Nicholson and newly-appointed Derek Kontkanen, respectively, handling those reins. Their wines are consistently quality-driven, easily placing them in the top-tier of premium Ontario and B.C. wineries. The following are excellent examples of the compelling, quality proposition offered.

• Order the following selected wines - by the case for delivery to home, office or restaurant in Ontario online from Inniskillin Niagara or pick up at the winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake.

  
Inniskillin ‘Discovery Series’ ‘Barrel-Fermented’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 12.5% alcohol
Seeing barely 3 months in new and seasoned oak barrel, this showcases gun flint, mineral, gooseberry and herbaceous aromas on the lifted nose. The flavour of racy lime zest mingles with green herbs and wisps of white grapefruit on the palate, mid-full bodied and gorgeously textured. It finishes in a blaze of tangy acidty—pour alongside a bowl of argula garnished with crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

  
Inniskillin ‘Single Vineyard - Klose Vineyard’ Riesling 2014
VQA Niagara River $24.95 12.0% alcohol
Heady floral and honey notes meld with citrus and pit fruit aromas on the nose of this lively, juicy gem. It streaks over the plate with sweet and tang, palate-bathing flavour of ripe yellow pit fruit—plum and nectarine—interwoven with lemon yoghurt and Key lime pie filling. Balanced on a pin and simply delicious, the lingering finish is mouth-watering and refreshing. Pour with a deli platter of charcuterie and soft white cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Order the following two wines by the case for daily home, office or restaurant delivery from Kacaba Winery or pick up from the winery on King Street in Vineland ON. 

  
Kacaba Cabernet / Syrah 2013 2013
VQA Niagara Escarpment $18.95 13.1% alcohol
This earned a Gold Medal at the 2015 All Canadian Wine Championships. Estate fruit was hand picked and aged 16 months in an even split of French and American oak barrel. Savory herbs and black licorice mingle with cedar and dark field berry fruit on the nose. It dishes up a balanced and beautiful, tang-laden river of ripe juicy mulberry and briary berry robed in hints of piquant, peppery spice. This is medium bodied with good mouth feel and nicely structured throughout. It finishes with good purity of fruit and plenty of charm. Pour with grilled, smoked back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

  
Kacaba Merlot 2013
VQA Niagara Escarpment $24.95 13.4% alcohol
Hand-picked, hand-sorted fruit was cold-soaked, fermented, pressed and racked into 50% French and 50% American oak barrel for 10 months undergoing full malolactic conversion. Aromas of red berry fruit, espresso roast and smoky notes set the table for a flurry of flavour coating the palate—black plum compote and ripe, juicy black cherry interweave with spice-infused red and black currant. It’s mid weight with creamy smooth mouth feel and lengthy balanced finish. There are wisps of soft tannin framed by good acidity on the lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic, Susan, Julie