Winecurrent
July 7, 2015 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

  • Exceptional value wine Exceptional Value!  – 3 of 45 wines (including 3 Sake) reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines and are found throughout the Main Release priced at $16.95 and $17.95—all are identified by the Exceptional Value!  icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • Finding Waldo – This vegan-friendly, gluten-free red blend is certified organic and free of all vineyard use of pesticides, herbicides, fungicides and chemicals.
  • 5-star Wine – two wines rang the 5-star bell: Okunomatsu Sakura Daiginjo Sake at $35.95 for 720 mL found under Japan: Sake and Gonzales Byass ‘Del Duque Vors’ Amontillado Non-Vintage at $38.95 for 375mL and found under Fortified Wine: Sherry.
  • Susan Selects – Domaine Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Aurore’ Brut Rosé Non-Vintage earning 4 ½ stars @ $19.95 found under Sparkling Wine.
  • Vic Picks – Château Paradis 2011 earning 4 ½ stars at $21.95 under France: Red Wine and Cockburn & Smith & Co. ‘Newman's Celebrated’ Port Non-Vintage earning 4 stars at $14.95 under Fortified Wine: Port.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: July 11, 2015

The Main Release: (The Spain, Chardonnay, Sake and Prince Edward County wines featured are found below and throughout the Vintages Release catalogue)

Fortified Wine: Port

**** drink now
Cockburn & Smith & Co. ‘Newman's Celebrated’ Port Non-Vintage

DOC Porto $14.95 (134908) 20% alcohol

This is still one of the great bargains in the LCBO. An entry level "Ruby" Port that over- delivers on every count. Expect spice and cassis on the nose and then ladles of palate-drenching sweet, black, ripe, juicy berry and pit fruit flavours. More of the same on the finish, sending one in search of a cold winter evening, chocolate dessert or large chips of Parmigiano-Reggiano to match. (Vic Harradine) 

Fortified Wine: Vino di Licor

**** drink now
Torres ‘Floralis’ Moscatel Oro Non-Vintage

Spain $16.95 (642173) 500 mL 15.0% alcohol

Torres has been producing this wine since the 1940s – no wonder it’s so beautifully wrought! Tawny in colour, this lovely dessert wine has high-toned aromas of dried fruits—in particular dried apricots—honey and toast. The texture is rich, sumptuous and honeyed, with pretty notes of orange zest garnishing the dried fruit flavours. It’s full-bodied and opulent with tangy acidity a great foil for the sweetness. The finish is extended and very nicely balanced. It’s a treat on its own or with fruit tart. (Susan Desjardins) 

Fortified Wine: Sherry

***** drink now
Gonzales Byass ‘Del Duque Vors’ Amontillado Non-Vintage
DO Jerez $38.95 (694331) 21.0% 375 mL 21.5% alcohol
This is pale amber in the glass with hints of green on the rim. Intense, oxidative aromas of dried fruit, yeasty notes and hazelnut provide segue to a tapestry of unbridled ambrosia with caramel, fig, toffee and almond mingling on the palate. It’s medium-plus bodied and fully textured with wonderful complexity and a dry, salty, monumental finish and aftertaste. Pour with aged cheese or consommé. (Vic Harradine)

Japan: Sake

Sake is an alcoholic beverage of fermented rice.

**** drink now
Kagatobi Gokkan Junmai Sake
Japan $15.95 300 mL (405142) 16.2% alcohol
Rich aromas of citrus, poached pear and white flowers introduce a mid-full-bodied wash of black licorice-laced pear and green apple that’s balanced on a pin offering a dry, crisp, delectable finish and aftertaste. This is very stylish and mouth-watering. It can be served at room temperature, warmed or on ice. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now
Okunomatsu Sakura Daiginjo Sake
Fukushima Prefecture $35.95 720 mL (405126) 15.4% alcohol
Delicate and charming aromas—vanilla, spice and Mirabelle plum—provide segue to complex, light-medium bodied, mellow and smooth, palate-bathing flavours of anise-scented pear, grilled pineapple and notions of mineral/salinity and spearmint. This was fortified by the addition of alcohol; it offers great value. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Rihaku ‘Dreamy Clouds’ Tokubetsu Junmai Sake
Shimane Prefecture $19.95 300 mL (406025) 15.6% alcohol
A ‘cloudy’ hue in the glass—hence the name—precedes sleek and racy aromas of lime zest and licorice allsorts. Sweet pear compote and citrus flavours interweave on the palate. This is light on its feet with creamy-smooth mouth feel and a nicely balanced, lingering aftertaste. Shake well before serving. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Juvé & Camps ‘Cinta Purpura Reserva Brut’ Cava 2011
DO Cava $18.95 (352864) 12.0% alcohol
Produced from the holy trinity of Cava grapes—Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada—this dishes up aromas of apple and pear mingling with buttered toast. It pours with vigorous mousse and attacks the palate with fine-bead bubbles carrying flavours of lemon curd and racy grapefruit. It’s nicely textured with good mouth feel and a lingering, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. This pours well as an aperitif or paired with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now
Domaine Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Aurore’ Brut Rosé Non-Vintage

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (048793) 12.0% alcohol

Domaine Louis Boullot has been producing sparkling wine since 1877; this is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Pale-salmon hued, it’s absolutely delightful—a medium-bodied sparkler that’s fruity and dry. From subtle aromas of summer berries, spice and brioche through to the delicate creamy mousse that refreshes the palate, it offers light, red berry flavours and a lengthy mouth-watering finish. Great value, enjoy it wiling away an afternoon or with smoked salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gramona “III Lustros Gran Reserva Brut Nature’ Cava 2006
DO Cava $49.95 (413963) 12.0% alcohol
After being harvested from two indigenous grapes, Xarel-lo and Macebeo, this Cava rested on its lees—spent yeast cells—an inordinately long time in bottle after its 2nd fermentation—five to six years—resulting in a unique tasting experience. Lifted aromas of rising yeast and baking bread meld with heady notes of honey. It bathes the palate with a substantial mouthful of orchard fruit and off-dry melon with an extravaganza of fine-bead bubbles. Pour with all manner of spice-driven dishes. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Cave Spring ‘Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (256552) 13.0% alcohol
From early pioneers of the modern era of vitis vinifera plantings and winemaking in Niagara, Cave Spring’s portfolio of fine wine showcase the Pennachetti family’s determination, dedication and excellence. Smoky/toasty aromas merge with baked apple and pit fruit on the nose before coating the palate with a stylish gusher of balanced and beautiful flavour—apple pie spice, racy lemon pie filling and wisps of toasty oak predominant. The finish is crisp, lengthy and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Flat Rock ‘The Rusty Shed’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (1552) 13.5% alcohol
Buttered toast, baking spice and mineral/slate aromas open this structured, balanced Chardonnay with great purity of fruit and a lingering finish and aftertaste. It’s mid-full weight and nicely textured with more than its share of robust flavour—green apple, sweet vanilla and tangy lemon-lime interwoven with cinnamon and nutmeg persisting through the aftertaste. Pour with roast chicken or pork roast. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Norman Hardie Riesling 2013
VQA Ontario $21.00 (131169) 10.1% alcohol
Citrus, floral notes and orchard fruit aromas herald a delectable Riesling with mineral-laced flavours of tangy lime cordial, sugared, grilled grapefruit and lemongrass. Off dry and on target with great balance and crisp freshness, it provides that delightful yin and yang, sweet and tang, that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine like tandoori chicken or pad Thai. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Sketches’ Riesling 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (89029) 10.5% alcohol

Granny Smith apple, piquant spice and floral notes presage a dazzling array of lifted and lively flavours with racy Key lime pie, lemon curd and crisp, refreshing green apple to the fore. This is light on its feet and dances across the palate with creamy-smooth mouth feel and oodles of charm. The finish is refreshing and mouth-watering delicious. Terrific as a starter wine, it pours well with pan-seared or grilled sea food or freshly-shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Westcott ‘Lillias Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula $20.00 (425322) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of orchard fruit, mixed spice and slate/mineral introduce a streak of racy acidity with lemon zest and white grapefruit to the fore. It’s light on its feet with a crisp refreshing finish of citrus and racy tang. Pour with sashimi or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Creekside ‘Laura’s Red’ 2012

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (446668) 13.5% alcohol

Rich, dark aromas of black currant, smoke and earthy notes herald a mid-full weight, generously textured mouthful of rich, luscious mulberry, black Bing cherry and dried currant mingling with baking spice and soft, fine-grained tannin. This value-packed, red blend—45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc, 3% Syrah, 2% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot—is structured, shows purity of fruit, delectable flavour and is perfectly balanced. It finishes in a lengthy blaze of sweet, ripe fruit and racy tang—delectable. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Baco Noir 2012

VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699) 14.0% alcohol

H of P Baco is always a highly anticipated release, especially the ‘Reserve’—this won’t disappoint; it’s brooding, rich and complex with oodles of fruit and spice. Pipe tobacco and piquant spice aromas—black pepper and cinnamon—herald a gusher of tang-laden dark berry fruit and black Bing cherry garnished with baking spice and earthy notes. It’s full bodied, fully textured and good to go now with hearty red meats, grilled or roasted, drinking well now to 2020, perhaps beyond. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Reif Estate ‘Reserve’ Merlot 2012
VQA Niagara River $25.95 (935676) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of sweet vanilla and sandalwood interlace with baking spice on the nose of this medium-bodied, nicely textured gem. It’s smooth and mellow on the palate sporting dark berry fruit, mixed spice and black plum compote flavour. It’s balanced and fruity on the long finish. Pour alongside grilled rib eye and Portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Rosehall Run ‘Cuvée County’ Pinot Noir 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $22.95 (225748) 12.4% alcohol
Piquant spice, cedar and field berry fruit provide segue for a medium-weight wash of sweet and tang fruit—black cherry and mulberry interwoven red currant and pie cherry infused with savoury herbs. It’s crisp, lean and refreshing throughout with lip-smacking acidity on the dry finish. Pour with meat and prawn paella or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Tawse Gamay Noir 2013 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (322545) 12.5% alcohol

The soft aromas of cherry and red berry fruit mingle with notions of cinnamon on the nose. It’s stylish, medium bodied with creamy-smooth mouth feel and a solid line of red cherry and cranberry streaking across the palate adorned with sweet, red licorice. The balanced and beautiful aftertaste surprises with hints of candy apple. This is a beautiful package and drinking extremely well now. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chamisal ‘Stainless’ Chardonnay 2014
Central Coast $24.95 (416065) 13.9% alcohol
Aromas of sharp spice citrus and pear set the table for a textured river that’s a smorgasbord of fruit flavour—lime-soaked guava, green apple, yellow peach and notions of pineapple. This is full-bodied, fully textured with great balance, structure, purity of fruit. It finishes in a blaze of lip-smacking tang. Pour with oysters Pernod or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bachelder ‘Oregon’ Chardonnay 2012
Willamette Valley $29.95 (273334) 13.5% alcohol
Buttered toast, binned apple and mineral aromas precede a gorgeous stream of lemon curd and lime cordial garnished with toasty oak and grapefruit pith. It’s medium bodied with decent mouth feel and long, long finish and aftertaste. Give this a further 12 months in bottle; it’ll reward careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2013
Mendoza $17.95 (677559) 14.5% alcohol
Although the Malbec grape had its origins in France, it has become known as Argentina’s signature red grape. It’s deep purple in colour while rich, concentrated dark fruit envelope the senses. This is bone dry, but has a hint of sweetness from the rich blackberry flavours. Full bodied and mouth-filling, there are soft tannins while French oak aging offers a little tobacco on the finish. This calls for grilled rib eye with portobello mushroom on the side. (Julie Stock)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Zuccardi Q Malbec 2012
Mendoza, $19.95 (723478) 14.5 % alcohol
Aromas of ripe plums and blackberries showcase a dark Malbec, juicy, rich and full bodied with soft tannin. It was aged in oak and finishes long with some sweet spice, sending you back for another sip. It’s a must for the grill; this’ll really shine with beef fajitas (Julie Stock)

Chile: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Toro de Piedra ‘Grand Reserve’ Chardonnay 2014
DO Maule Valley $17.95 (417493) 14.9% alcohol
One of the oldest and largest Chilean wine regions, Maule Valley has gained a lot of press recently for full-bore reds—this Chardonnay is no slouch, either, in fact it’s first-class. There are heady tropical fruit aromas and it’s smooth as silk on the palate with robust layers of pineapple, mango and almonds. This is full bodied and rounded with a pinch of sweet spice on the finish. (Julie Stock)

New Zealand: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (677450) 13.5% alcohol
Gooseberry aromas dance on the nose adorned with lemongrass and mineral/slate/flinty notes. The sweet and tang on the palate’s delivered by a concentrated wash of lime cordial and lemon curd interweaving with kiwi fruit and white grapefruit pith on the fresh, crisp aftertaste. Give this a go alongside pan-seared pickerel or grilled garlic prawns. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2013

Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (9167) 13.0% alcohol

Fruit for this was sourced in the Wairau Valley from low-yielding vines planted back in the 70s that are some of the oldest in Marlborough. Grassy, green nettles and lemon citrus mingle with smoke and incense on the nose. It dishes up an intensely flavoured streak of lemon curd, gooseberry and pineapple balanced with lime cordial and wisps of melon and ginger. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a crisp, clean, refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside pan-seared scallops or grilled freshwater fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2013
WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley $39.95 (931006) 13.0% alcohol
From one of the wine world’s premium producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this never disappoints. Cinnamon, floral notes and sandalwood aromas open the door to a sensational flow of mid-weight, generously textured flavour with green apple, lemon zest and minerality to the fore. The lingering aftertaste layers on yellow plum and toasted oak notes. Pour with roast fowl or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink now
Willy Gisselbrecht ‘Tradition’ Gewürztraminer 2012
AOC Alsace $17.95 (928390) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a light-medium weight, off-dry Gewürztraminer that dishes up a delicate nose of lychee fruit and tropical fruit aromas. A palate-bathing wash of piquant spice, racy citrus and ripe tropical fruit persist through the mid-length finish. It’s a delightful sipper with which to greet guests and can continue to be served when you bring on the spicy appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Bachelder ‘La Grande Châtelaine’ Côte de Beaune 2011
AOC Côte de Beaune $37.95 (332536) 13.0% alcohol
Smoky notes mingle with binned apple and minerality on the nose of this medium-bodied, generously textured white Burgundy. A wave of toasty oak, mineral notes and wisps of blood orange bathe the palate infusing the finish and aftertaste, balanced and crisp. Pour with pan-seared freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
La Chablisienne Saint Bris 2014
AOC Saint Bris $15.95 (641753) 12.5% alcohol
You might correctly guess this as Sauvignon Blanc—aromas of grassy, herbaceous, green nettles make way for a gusher of lemon-lime tang shrouded in piquant spice and flinty minerality on the palate and finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Pour this value-packed offering with olive-oil dripped over arugula under a generous portion of crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** cellar
Château La Tour de Bessan 2010
AOC Margaux $33.95 (418509) 13.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit flavours dominate the palate in this structured, cellar dweller—black currant, mulberry and blueberry—interwoven with baking spice, excellent acidity, hints of sweet vanilla and firm tannin underpinning. Careful cellaring should be handsomely rewarded; pop corks 2018 to 2024 pouring with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château Le Doyenné 2011
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux $24.95 (416735) 13.5% alcohol
This right bank, Merlot-predominant red blend is medium-full bodied, with good mouth feel and wisps of still-evolving tannin. The 200-year-old estate fell into disrepair after WW2 and was re-built and modernized in the 90s. It’s now being recognized as one of the premiere producers from this appellation. Aromas of dark cherry, herbs and spice introduce a structured, palate-coating wash of black currant and pie cherry interwoven with vanilla and spice persisting through the dry finish. Aerate/decant for three hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Paradis 2011
AOP Coteaux d’Aix en Provence $22.95 (415984) 15.5% alcohol
Produced from 50-year-old vines, fruit was hand picked then cold-soaked, wild-yeast fermented in concrete tank followed by 12 months aging in 70% tank and 30% oak barrel. It’s a delectable red with ripe fruit aromas—black currant and cherry—interlaced with spice and wisps of mocha. It rolls over the palate with complexity, medium bodied and generously textured, sporting waves of juicy ripe flavour with dark berry fruit and mixed spice to the fore. It finishes fruity and firm—aerate/decant for two hours serving with grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Château de Cenac ‘Cuvée Prestige’ Malbec 2010
AOC Cahors $21.95 (414532) 13.0% alcohol
This saw 12 months in oak and is 100% Malbec. It’s best in the cellar for a bit, but has all the earmarks of rewarding your patience. Aromas of toasty oak, tobacco and floral notes herald a wash of firm, teeth-staining flavour galore—dark Bing cherry and briary berry mingling with sweet vanilla, tarry notes and black licorice. It’s medium-plus bodied with good mouth feel, and need of another few years in the cellar; open 2018 to 2025. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Barbi ‘Brusco Dei Barbi’ 2013
IGT Toscana $15.95 (673160) 13.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. Wood smoke, pipe tobacco, grapey notes and exotic spice waft freely from this 100% Sangiovese. Red berry fruit flavour—strawberry, cherry and currant—interweave with spice, truffles and tang throughout. It’s fresh and lively with good acidity and ripe fruit to match. Pour alongside your favourite pizza, spicy wings or a platter of Italian charcuterie—prosciutto, Genoa salami, capicola, mortadella. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Castelgreve Chianti Classico Riserva 2009 

DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (344416) 13.5% alcohol 

A quiet nose of spice, flowers and mixed red and black fruit provide backdrop for a mid-weight, well-textured wash of sour cherry and red plum wrapped in spice and herbs, underpinned by a fine-grained. It’s medium-plus weight with a juicy, tangy finish replaying palate flavours with gusto. Best opened after a three-hour aeration/decant served with hearty cuisine—stew, meatloaf or turkey pot pie. (Vic Harradine) 

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ruffino ‘Ducale Oro – Gran Selezione’ Riserva Chianti Classico 2010

DOCG Chianti Classsico $44.95 (353201) 14.5% Alcohol

This is made only in the best vintages and ranks in the top 10% of all 2014 Chianti Classico wine, hence the, ‘Gran Selezione’. Dark berry fruit, floral notes, mocha and baking spice announce a fruity, balanced river of spiced, dark Bing cherry, mulberry and hints of dark chocolate mingling with wisps of roasted herbs on the palate. It’s mid-plus weight with creamy-smooth mouth feel and more than its share of depth, complexity and charm. Pour with grilled steak, osso bucco or classic pasta dishes. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Sada Baldoro 2011
IGT Toscana $19.95 (419044) 13.5% alcohol
This Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano, Alicante Bouschet red blend dishes up a heady nose of campfire smoke and spice-laden dark berry fruit. It sees no oak, remaining fresh and lively with rich, luscious fruit—black cherry, black currant and dark plum compote. It’s medium weight with a long mouth-watering finish showing a brushstroke of soft tannin that’s easily ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)  

***1/2 drink or cellar
Falesco ‘Vitiano’ 2013
IGP Umbria $15.95 (950204) 13.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of floral notes, menthol and pipe tobacco open this medium-weight red blend, a one-third split of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Red currant and passion fruit meld on the palate with spice and hints of cassis joining in. This is lean and racy with a dry, lip-smacking finish showing perceptible tannin on the aftertaste. Aerate/decant for three hours pouring alongside pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Bau Crianza 2010
DOCa Rioja $16.95 (417964) 13.5% alcohol
This delightful, value-packed, red blend of 90% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, 5% Graciano leaps from the glass with rich, dark fruit aromas interlaced with forest floor, mocha and mixed spice. A luscious stream of black currant and red cherry coats the palate. This is mid weight with good texture and lengthy, balanced, finish of sweet mulberry and tangy red currant. This is structured and fruit forward with complexity and charm. Pour with grilled, pork-tenderloin medallions. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Chapillon Siendra 2011
DO Calatayud $14.95 (417675) 14.5% alcohol
The price-quality ratio is skewed well in your favour. This Grenache-predominant red blend saw 10 months in French oak and delivers a heady nose of mixed field berry fruit mingling with sweet vanilla and mushroom aromas. The palate’s treated to a tangy wash of red currant, cranberry and smooth, mellow milk chocolate. It’s medium bodied with a lingering aftertaste of juicy black cherry framed by excellent tang and underpinned with perceptible, but acceptable tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours or pop corks after 2016. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cune ‘Reserva’ 2010
DOCa Rioja $23.95 (417659) 13.5% alcohol
This aged 24 months in American and French oak barrel then spent two years resting in bottle before release. The involved nose sports aromas of smoke, toasty oak, plum, vanilla and leather. There’s sweet and tang galore on the palate where racy red currant and tangy passion fruit meet sweet mulberry and ripe black currant persisting through the finish. This is mid weight with creamy-smooth mouth feel and lengthy, balanced aftertaste layering on wisps of slate/mineral notes and spice-infused coconut. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Heritat Mont-Rubi Durona Tinto 2004
Vino de Mesa $19.95 (143255) 13.5% alcohol
An Asian spice, aromatic bitters and berry fruit bouquet open this aged red blend. It streaks over the palate with great nerve and verve and a solid line of acidity showcasing racy red currant and tang-laden cranberry. It’s mid-plus weight with good texture and quite fruity with wisps of soft tannin and a warm, peppery finish. Good to go now—pour with pasta and grilled chorizo in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Valedemar ‘Fincas Valdemacuco’ Roble 2012
DO Ribera del Duero $19.95 (417683) 13.5% alcohol
This is made from 100% Tempranillo spending 5 months in new French oak barrel before bottling. Floral notes, leather and dark berry fruit aromas lead the way to a tang-infused river of red cherry and piquant spice. There’s good structure here with sweet vanilla and smoky toasty oak on the lingering finish. It’s medium weight and nicely balanced. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

***1/2 drink now
Our Daily Red 2013
California $13.95 (398461) 13.5% alcohol
Kurt Lorenzi, head winemaker, advises, ‘Our Daily Red is both an eco-friendly and economical option for consumers.’ This vegan-friendly, gluten-free red blend—Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Ruby Cabernet, Carignan—is certified organic and free of all vineyard use of pesticides, herbicides, fungicides and chemicals. Heady aromas of piquant spice and savoury herbs set the stage for a light-on-its-feet, focused and tart stream of red cherry and passion fruit interweaving with warm spice and pie cherry on the palate, replaying on aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or your favourite pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic, Susan, Julie