June 10, 2015 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

• Exceptional value wine   – 9 of 104 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines and are found throughout the newsletter and after the Main Release priced between $12.65 and $29.95—all are identified by the   icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
• Finding Waldo –a white wine made from the indigenous grape Assyrtiko that grows on ancient ‘bush’ vines, coiled in concentric circles that rest on the ground—no posts or wire.
• 5-star Wine – seven wines rang the 5-star bell: found throughout the newsletter with a few also earning the exceptional value check mark.
• Vic Picks – An affordable treasure. Patricius ‘5-Puttonyos’ Tokaji Aszú (toe-kye ah-soo) 2003 @ $39.95 for 500 mL earning 5 stars and found under dessert wine at the very beginning of the Main Release and Domaine Font De Michelle ‘CuvéeTradition’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012 @ $47.95 earning 4½ stars found in ‘New in Vintages’ after the Main Release.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

June 13, 2015 Vintages Release

Fortified Wine: Port

Dow’s ‘10-Year-Old Tawny’ Port
DOP Porto, Portugal $34.95 (246967) 19.3% alcohol
This is liquid ambrosia with heady aromas and medium-bodied, creamy-smooth, palate-bathing flavours of treacle, nutty notes, Christmas-cake spice and caramel. It’s structured, complex and finishes with more of the same replaying palate flavours on the lingering aftertaste. This pairs and pours well with consommé, crème brulée, spice cake, warmed nuts or aged hard cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Dessert Wine

Patricius ‘5-Puttonyos’ Tokaji Aszú 2003
Hungary $39.95 500 mL (95901) 10.0% alcohol
One of the wine world’s affordable treasures, if you haven’t experienced it, allow me to heartily recommend this one. It coats the palate with orange and lemon peel marmalade, mango, candied blood orange and oodles of spice and charm. It finishes in a surge of sweet nectar with coffee, honey and apricot coming to mind and… not the least cloying. The ‘puttonyos’ refer to the number of 20-litre containers of über-sweet, hand-harvested, botrytis-affected grapes used in this magnificent Tokaji Aszú. Serve as an aperitif, with blue-veined cheese, crème caramel or fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne $73.95 (384529) 12.0% alcohol

This has great sense of purpose with a fine-bead mousse. It rides a streak of lemon curd and Key lime garnished with minerality, blood orange and honeyed pit fruit, the latter making an appearance on the clean crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Bollinger are considered by many to be at or near the pinnacle of Champagne producers. (Vic Harradine)

Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne $41.95 (924654) 12.0% alcohol

This has an attractive nose of mineral, floral and heady citrus notes. There’s a lovely attack on the palate with a rush of white grapefruit and green apple flavours infused with spice and mineral nuances. It’s medium in weight and texture and offers a lingering finish that’s zesty and clean. There’s enough oomph for it to be paired with light appetizers and the attractive price, as Champagne goes, allow it to be served as the welcoming wine at any, upscale gathering—including a special evening for two. (Vic Harradine)

Marc Hébrart ‘Brut - Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne, 1er Cru à Mareuil-sur-Aÿ $45.95 (231217) 12.0% alcohol
Blanc de Blancs on a Champagne label indicates 100% Chardonnay. This is clean and crisp with aromas of lemon zest and slate/mineral mingling with floral notes on the nose. It races over the palate with a laser-like streak of lemon curd and Key lime garnished by white grapefruit and a bite of piquant spice. It broadens out a bit on the refreshing finish with green apple and nutty notes joining in. Pour with freshly shucked oysters under a squeeze of fresh lemon and a dash of hot sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Jackson-Triggs ‘Entourage Grand Reserve Brut’ 2011

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (234161) 12.5% alcohol

This is Pinot Noir dominant, made in the method of Champagne with a price-quality balance that tips well in your favour. A subdued nose of floral and citrus notes portend a smooth flow of firm and focused flavour with apple, ripe pear and white nectarine to the fore. It’s well balanced with good texture and a zippy, refreshing finish. Pour alongside roast chicken, turkey or pork. (Vic Harradine)

  
Tawse Vineyard ‘Limestone Ridge Vineyard - Spark’ Riesling 2013 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (370361) 11.5% alcohol 

This single-vineyard gem bristles with nerve and verve showcasing a solid line of bright acidity. Aromas of flinty/minerality and green apple give way to myriad, small bubbles carrying lemon-lime tang and notions of passion fruit. Clean, dry and vibrant throughout, you won’t go wrong pouring with freshly shucked, briny oysters alongside fresh lemon, hot sauce, horseradish. (Vic Harradine)

Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Rosé Non-Vintage

New Zealand $21.95 (280172) 12.0% alcohol

This attractive pink-hued sparkler, fashioned from 20% hand-harvested Pinot Noir and 80% low-yielding Chardonnay, was fermented in the Charmat a.k.a. Cuve Close method. It hustles from the bottle with an energetic mousse and aromas of red berry fruit and spice with hints of brioche. It delivers spirited and lively flavours of citrus and red currant interwoven with sweeter and riper cherry on the lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine) 

Pierre Sparr ‘Brut’ Rosé Crémant d’Alsace Non-Vintage

AOC Alsace $18.95 (39016) 12.0% alcohol

Pale salmon and crafted from Pinot Noir, the delicate aromas of red field berries come through on the crisp, bright and fresh palate. Just off-dry, light-medium bodied and fruity, it delivers a fine mousse and lively acidity. A refreshing and delightful choice. (Susan Desjardins) 

Domaine de Vaugondy ‘Brut’ Vouvray Non-Vintage 

AOC Vouvray $17.95 (154567) 12.5% alcohol 

A deep golden tone, this sparkling Chenin Blanc offers leesy, yeasty notes paired with ripe orchard fruit. Dry and crisp in texture, the abundant fine mousse highlights the flavours of citrus, pear and apple, delivering a zesty tang right through a lengthy, dry finish. Sip or serve with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

Carpenè Malvolti ‘Cuvée Brut Conegliano Valdobbiadene’ Prosecco Superiore Non-Vintage

DOCG Veneto $16.95 (727438) 11.0% alcohol

This is brimming with a solid line of orchard fruit on the nose and palate with aromas of apple and pear joined by flavours of white peach and notions of lemon drop—dry, crisp and refreshing. It’s light on its feet with an affinity for lighter-styled dishes like chicken or seafood canapés or sipped on its own before dinner. (Vic Harradine)

One + One = Three ‘Cygnus Reserva’ Brut Nature Cava Non-Vintage

DO Cava, Spain $17.95 (352856) 11.5% alcohol

This sparkling, organic gem was produced from the holy trinity of Cava grapes— Xarel-lo 40%, Parellada 30% and Macabeo 30%. Lifted aromas of apple and pear interweave with mint and wisps of piquant ginger heralding flavours of apple, mineral/slate and strawberry wreathed in lemon curd and toasty notes. This has good mousse and a delightfully refreshing, lip-smacking aftertaste—certainly a cut above the norm. Pour with steamed mussels or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

Segura Viudas ‘Heredad Reserva’ Brut Cava Non-Vintage

Spain $29.95 (558825) 12.0% alcohol

Golden, with some green notes, this limited-production Cava, a blend of the first pressing of estate-grown Macabeo and Parellada, displays depth and lovely balance. Intense aromas of pear, citrus and toasted butter pastry entice. Dry, bright and fresh, it has a refined creamy mousse and a lively, crisp texture. Rich flavours of Bosc pear and lemon-lime wash across the palate and linger on the clean, persistent finish. A sparkling wine of presence and weight, it presents well as a gift or served at any holiday gathering. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

  
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 150-183’ Riesling 2013

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (424176) 10.0% alcohol

Straw-hued, this is a powerhouse of lively, fresh aromas—white flowers and mineral, lime and citrus fruit, luscious, juicy white peach and pear. There’s depth on the palate, freshness and silk to the texture and deft balance of vibrant, clean acidity, wet stone, and tasty, lip-smacking fruit—lime and grapefruit, crunchy green apple and pear. There’s a pleasant touch of residual sweetness on the lengthy, lively finish. Riesling lovers will stock up. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

  
Burning Kiln ‘M-1’ Merlot 2013
VQA Ontario $34.95 (406470) 13.7% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of exotic incense, mocha and dark berry fruit abound in this gorgeous red blend—86% Merlot, 7% Cab Franc, 7% Petit Verdot. It bathes the palate with a focused river of black currant, cassis and dark briary berry interwoven with sweet raisin and black plum compote. It’s mid weight with good structure, depth and purity of fruit persisting through the lingering, deftly balanced aftertaste. Give this a go now pouring alongside veal roast with root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

  
Tawse ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2011

VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $31.95 (130997) 13.5% alcohol

Subtle and sophisticated, the aromas of ripe red fruit shine through, a whiff of cedar brought forward by the 18-month oak aging, notes of spice and dried herbs adding to the heady bouquet. Dry, medium-full bodied, the texture is juicy and clean, the red and black berry flavours lively, earthy notes, roasted peppers and a replay of dried herbs adding complexity. Well-structured, with a long lasting finish, this wine will cellar well or may be served now with substantial meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

  
Pondview Cabernet Franc Rosé 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (241802) 12.8% alcohol
Aromas of strawberry, red currant jelly and floral notes herald an off-dry surge of watermelon, cherry and sugared/grilled red grapefruit that makes its way to the back palate joined by balancing acidity from pie cherry and red currant. It finishes balanced with great purity of fruit, crisp and refreshing. This is extremely versatile at the table—deli board, charcuterie, spicy appetizers, smoked salmon and on and on. (Vic Harradine)

  
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Rosé 2014

VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (172643) 12.0% alcohol

Rosé wines are a sure sign of spring and summer, bringing versatility and freshness to the table. This is no exception, reliably good, veritably singing out the notes of ripening red berries and of cranberry juice. Dry, medium bodied, it’s juicy and vibrant with a fine seam of acidity supporting the tasty fruit through the fruity dry finish. Chill and sip on its own or serve with salmon, salad, chicken or turkey. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

The Prisoner Wine ‘Blindfold White’ 2013
California $39.95 (274207) 14.2% alcohol
This unique blend—30% Chardonnay, 30% Grenache Blanc, 20% Viognier, 20% Roussanne—dishes up a nose of piquant spice, green apple and floral notes. A medium-bodied, nicely textured, exotic wash of mango, grilled pineapple and blood orange interweaves with excellent tang and wisps of baking spice. It finishes lengthy, balanced and beautiful with noticeable toasty oak on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Gold Label’ Chardonnay 2013
Monterey County $19.95 (708305) 13.5% alcohol
Mixed spice, apple and pear set the table for a medium-full bodied, beautifully textured mouthful of tropical fruit and lemon curd mingling with toasty notes and oodles of structure and charm. It’s deftly balanced with a long, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This pairs and pours well with roast bird with all the fixings or Caesar salad with grilled chicken strips. (Vic Harradine

Santa Barbara Winery Chardonnay 2013
Santa Barbara County $24.95 (989152) 13.7% alcohol
Aromas of Meyer lemon and orchard fruit are followed by a sweet, ripe gusher of pit fruit and red apple coating the palate, mid weight with satin-smooth mouth feel. There’s considerable citrus tang on the crisp, clean and refreshing finish and mid-length aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared trout or salmon. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Sonoma County $22.95 (226944) 13.8% alcohol
As California Cab prices go, the price-quality ratio on this chewy gem skews well in your favour. It vaults from the glass with aromas of dark, juicy, berry fruit, ripe cherry, mocha and baking spice—aged 15 months in French and American small, oak barrel. It envelopes the palate with teeth-staining flavours of mint-infused black Bing cherry, sweet vanilla and notions of bittersweet chocolate. The finish lingers with fine-grained tannin and lip-smacking tang. (Vic Harradine)

Silver Buckle ‘Ranchero Red’ 2010
Central Coast $21.95 (412684) 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—45% Syrah, 34% Merlot, 21% Malbec—belts it out with alluring aromas of exotic spice, dark berry fruit and dark coffee. It bathes the palate with a mid- weight, nicely textured mouthful of bramble berry pie, black currant, kirsch liqueur and vanilla interlaced with fennel and smoky, toasty oak—aged 12 months in custom-toasted, French oak barrel. Grilled/smoked back ribs mopped in spicy barbecue sauce pairs well. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

Alamos Chardonnay 2013
Mendoza $14.95 (801571) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of apple, pear and peach herald a rock-solid, 4-star Chardonnay that’s value packed, balanced and beautiful. Flavours of tropical fruit, white peach and grilled pineapple interlace with lemon-pie filling and tangy Key lime on the medium-bodied, well-textured frame. It finishes nicely balanced and mouth-watering delicious. Pick up a few for pouring over the next couple of years. (Vic Harradine)

Sur de Los Andes ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2012
Mendoza $15.95 (208322) 14.0% alcohol
The 100% Malbec, hand-harvested, sustainably farmed fruit from hi-altitude vines—3500 feet—was fermented by indigenous yeast then aged 12 months in French oak barrel, only 20% new. Aromas waft from the glass with sweet vanilla, sandalwood and boysenberry paving the way for a mid-full bodied stream of roasted herbs and black currant mingling with earthy notes and oodles of tart tang. Pour alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

Concha Y Toro ‘Trio Reserva’ Chardonnay/Pinot Grigio/Pinot Blanc 2013
Casablanca Valley $14.95 (433938) 13.5% alcohol
Racy throughout, this white blend dishes up aromas of melon, citrus and tropical fruit introducing a laser-like stream of lemongrass, Key lime and white grapefruit pith on the palate. Flavours replay and persist through the crisp, clean, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

Vasse Felix ‘Heytesbury’ Chardonnay 2013
Margaret River, Western Australia $68.95 (675648) 13.5% alcohol
This one of the iconic white wines of Australia gaining little press in Canada. Bravo to the buyer at the LCBO for getting this on offer, and, at a reasonable price. The complex nose offers floral, smoky, nutty notes, herbaceous bits and baking spice with notions of mineral/slate. It coats the palate with a structured river of citrussy tang to the fore—lemon curd and piquant, spice-infused blood orange interlaced with green apple on the mineral-laced, lip-smacking finish. Good to go now to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Elderton ‘High Altitude’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (408989) 13.5% alcohol
Baking spice, cassis and dark briary berry aromas herald a tangy spray of red currant and pie cherry mingling with savoury herb and spice aromas. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a steady flow of red fruit tang through the dry, crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pair with spaghetti Bolognese or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

Small Gully ‘Oscar’s Estate Vineyard’ Shiraz/Viognier 2013
Barossa Valley, South Australia $18.95 (287961) 15.0% alcohol
Spice-laden black currant and plum aromas are amplified on the palate by a gusher of ripe mulberry, black cherry and bramble berry tart. It’s full bodied and fully textured, balanced and structured. The purity of fruit mingles with peppery spice and persists through the lingering aftertaste. This is excellent value and well worth a multiple purchase; it’s drinking now to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

Stella Bella ‘Isca’ Cabernet/Merlot 2010
Margaret River, Western Australia $22.95 (47639) 14.0% alcohol
Mint, sweet vanilla and black plum compote aromas abound. It’s mid weight with decent texture and delivers a boatload of tang with red cherry, red currant and pomegranate flavour. It broadens out on the savoury, dry finish with dark cherry, sweet vanilla and black currant. A consummate food wine, pour with dry-rubbed grilled ribs in mildly spiced tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Two Hands ‘Bella’s Garden’ Shiraz 2012

Barossa Valley, South Australia $63.95 (636407) 16.0% alcohol

Rich, dense and hedonistic, this jumps from the glass with heady aromas of cedar, piquant spice and black currant jam. It coats the palate with waves of teeth-staining flavour—ripe mulberry and black, juicy Bing cherry garnished with mocha, earthy notes and exotic spice. It’s a bruiser—full weight, full texture, perceptible tannin and high octane. It finishes with dark chocolate, toasted oak and loads of dark cherry/berry fruit. Aerate/decant three hours pouring now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Wynns ‘John Riddoch’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Coonawarra, South Australia $99.95 (466748) 13.5% alcohol
This is listed in the ‘Exceptional’ category of Australia’s vaunted Langton’s Classification, placing it in the top 21 of Australia’s most sought-after wines. Aromas of pipe tobacco, dark, field-berry fruit and toasted oak aromas set the stage for this cellar dweller to coat the palate with spice-laden cassis, red and dark cherry flavour with oodles of tang and a ripe tannin underpinning. It’s mid-full weight and chewy with good texture. This’ll reward careful cellaring; pop corks 2017-2025. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Coopers Creek ‘Dillons Point’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (66092) 13.0% alcohol
The lifted nose of green herbs, pure grassy notes and citrus precede a focused stream of gooseberry, passion fruit and lime zest searing the palate infusing the finish. It’s mid weight with good texture and a broad swath of nectarine and green apple on the crisp, clean and mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with breaded, skillet-seared calamari rings under a squeeze of fresh lemon or arugula under a sprinkling of olive oil and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (355310) 13.5% alcohol
This is Erica and Kim Crawford’s newest venture having sold their first to Canada’s Vincor, later taken over by present owners, Constellation Brands. Perfumed aromas of lime and sprigs of herbs infuse the nose while a mid-weight line of crisp, piquant spice, lemongrass and gooseberry race across the palate along with a crisp bite of grapefruit pith on the aftertaste. It pours well with sashimi or scallop ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Misha’s Vineyard ‘The High Note’ Pinot Noir 2009
Central Otago, South Island $34.95 (414078) 14.0% alcohol
An interesting bouquet of savoury herbs, cedar, mixed field berry fruit and earthy notes has developed in this light-ruby hued, aged Pinot. It streaks over the palate with racy cranberry, roasted herbs and tangy pomegranate—spice-infused, mid weight and lightly textured. Flavours and tang replay on the crisp, dry finish along with perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours serving with coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

Man Family Wines ‘Essay’ Chenin Blanc/Viognier 2014
WO Western Cape $13.95 (414144) 13.5% alcohol
Previously known as Steen in South Africa, Chenin Blanc’s a grape that deserves attention; South Africa claims the largest plantings in the world for this varietal. Honeysuckle, nectarine and nutty notes on the nose, it spreads over the palate in balanced waves of palate-bathing flavours—white peach and grilled pineapple mingling with ripe apple and pear. It’s value packed and medium bodied with good mouth feel and spice-infused, fruit-forward aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

Flagstone ‘Dragon Tree’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Pinotage 2012
WO Western Cape $16.95 (37549) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of spice cake, campfire smoke and dark berry fruit abound. The ripe, sweet mulberry and kirsch liqueur on entry is juxtaposed with a racy wash of savoury cranberry and passion fruit on the back palate and drying finish. This is nicely textured and mid weight with depth and complexity. It finishes in a blaze of piquant spice and savoury tang. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht ‘Calcaire’ Gewürztraminer 2011
AOC Alsace $39.95 (320481) 13.5% alcohol
This makes up for the lack of intensity previous vintages have shown with refinement and style. Perfumed, spice-laden aromas of tropical fruit and Jasmine tea provide segue to palate-bathing, slightly off-dry flavours of grilled pineapple, lime-drenched mango and lychee nut interwoven with lemongrass and notes of minerality/slate. It’s mid weight with a mid-length finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Bachey-Legros et Fils ‘Les Grands Charrons’ Meursault 2011
AOC Meursault $51.95 (410647) 13.5% alcohol
A gloriously complex nose of apple pie spice, Asian incense and tropical fruit set the stage for dazzling gusher of piquant spice, ripe apple, sweet Bosc pear and white nectarine interlaced with toasty oak. This hits all the high notes, mid-full bodied with substantial texture. It finishes dry and refreshing with bit of grapefruit pith on the lengthy finish. Pour alongside roast chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)

Les Anges Sauvignon Blanc 2013
IGP Val de Loire $13.95 (408203) 11.5% alcohol
Grassy nettles, minerality and citrus aromas introduce a lean streak of tangy acidity with lemon drop, racy Key lime and crisp Granny Smith apple to the fore. This is quite focused throughout, crisp clean and refreshing. Mid weight and finely textured it finishes in a blaze of tang and lemony acidity. Scallop ceviche or sashimi would make great dance partners. (Vic Harradine)

Famille Perrin ‘Réserve’ Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2014
AOC Côtes du Rhône $14.95 (499509) 13.0% alcohol
This white blend—50% Grenache Blanc, 20% Viognier and an almost equal split of Marsanne and Roussanne—delivers an aromatic nose of floral notes, honeyed peach, smoky notes and ripe pear. It’s off-dry with a delightful mouthful of ripe, juicy fruit with white nectarine and yellow peach interlaced with honeydew melon and lime cordial. It finishes lip-smacking good and pours exceptionally well with pan-seared fish or grilled prawns under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé wine

George Duboeuf Beaujolais Rosé 2014
AOC Beaujolais $17.95 (409755) 12.0% alcohol
This is a wonderfully expressive Rosé with tantalizing aromas, purity of fruit and clean, crisp aftertaste. Aromas of honeyed pit fruit, mixed berry fruit and lilac precede a racy wash of fruit and tang—blood orange, passion fruit and pie cherry. It winds up racy and mouth watering, looking for pan-seared salmon or deli board. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Coudoulet de Beaucastel Côtes-du-Rhône 2012

AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $29.95 (48884) 14.5% alcohol

From one the world’s most reliable producers this flirts with 5-stars, you won’t go wrong with an armful of these—it’s considered ‘little brother’ of the world-famous ‘Chateau de Beaucastel’. This is complex, good value, delectable, structured and deftly balanced throughout. Aromatic bitters, espresso roast and dark berry fruit aromas herald a stunning gusher of ripe mulberry and red berry fruit, balanced and beautiful. The persistent finish is fruity and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

Château de Panigon 2011

AOC Médoc $18.95 (230367) 13.0% alcohol

Principally Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this is a red crafted for cellaring. Earthy notes and dried herbs complement berry fruit and fine smoky notes on the nose. It’s medium bodied with chalky drying tannins to the fore. Lively acidity highlights the tasty dark fruit. The tannin makes its presence felt through the dry finish, suggesting further cellaring prior to enjoying this with rare roast beef. (Susan Desjardins)

Germany: White Wine

Max Ferd. Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2013
Prädikatswein, Mosel $21.95 (998120) 8.0% alcohol
Still in the hands of the Richter family after 300 years, Riesling collectors and aficionados—and wine-lovers like you and me—will want a few of these. Once cellared for 6 or 8 years, it’s nectar fit for a king. Aromas of piquant spice, slate/mineral and lime zest open a focused line of tangy acidity—lime cordial and lemon yoghurt—melding perfectly with a creamy-smooth, off-dry wash of grilled pineapple and crème brulée. It finishes balanced and unctuous. You can pour now as an aperitif or with fruit flan, or cellar another decade. (Vic Harradine)

St. Urbans-Hof Riesling 2013
Qualitätswein $19.95 (995746) 9.5% alcohol
This is semi-sweet and light on its feet, look for piquant spice and minerality on the quiet nose. A palate-bathing wash of semi-sweet apple and pear joins racy lemon-lime on the palate infusing the long, mouth-watering finish. Give this a go with pad Thai or spicy spring rolls. (Vic Harradine)

Greece: White Wine

Argyros Santorini Assyrtiko 2014
PDO Santorini $21.95 (387365) 13.5% alcohol
Indigenous to the island of Santorini, some of the Assyrtiko vines are more than 150 years old and are grown much like bush vines except vines are coiled in concentric circles with the grape clusters inside to protect them from the heat and high winds on the island. Gorgeous aromas of lavender, spice and exotic incense announce a tang-laden flow of lemon curd and blood orange melding with mineral/slate, ripe pear and green apple on the palate and finish. It’s clean and refreshing pairing well with fish and seafood. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Masera Gavi 2013
DOCG Gavi $18.95 (412676) 12.0% alcohol
Produced from low-yielding Cortese de Gavi, aka ‘Gavi’ grapes, this gem delivers crisp clean aromas and flavours or green apple, pear and nectarine. It’s medium weight with satin-smooth mouth feel and a tangy, balanced and beautiful, lingering finish and aftertaste. This has structure, depth and persistent purity of fruit. Pour with grilled or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

Pieropan ‘La Rocca’ Soave Classico 2011
DOC Veneto $39.95 (92437) 13.0% alcohol
The Pieropan family have been involved with this winery and the land since the late 1800s; it’s an iconic property and Italian family. The organic-certified fruit was hand harvested and aged 15 months in seasoned oak resting that time on its lees. Deep straw-hued, perfumed aromas of floral, hazelnut and tropical fruit abound. It bathes the palate with clean crisp flavours of green apples and pear along with notions of minerality. Light-bodied and nicely textured, the finish is mouth watering and delectable. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Caparzo Rosso di Montalcino 2011 

DOC Montalcino $19.95 (333575) 13.5% alcohol 

Transparent ruby, this wine offers appealing aromas of fresh red fruits accented by spice and dried herbs. Dry, medium bodied, the lively texture and perceptible tannins are complemented with vibrant red fruit—cherry and currant to the fore. Spicy, savoury notes evolve on the palate and persist on the extended, dry finish. A great food wine, especially with meat-based pasta dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2009 

DOCG Chianti Classico $34.95 (39768) 13.5% alcohol 

Ruby hued, this finely honed Chianti Classico offers earthy notes, red plum, berry fruit and savoury herbs on the nose. Dry, medium bodied, there’s a lovely balance of ripe tannins, clean acidity, raspberry and lively black berry fruit, as well as a tangy, fresh texture right through the lengthy, dry finish. A great match for meat-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins) 

Masi ‘Costasera Riserva’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2009
DOC Valpolicella $69.95 (324137) 15.5% alcohol
Produced from Valpolicella Classico’s indigenous, holy trinity of grapes—Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara—this Riserva is also blessed by the unique Oseleta varietal, rediscovered by Masi. It bustles from the glass with floral and toasty notes mingling with espresso roast, dark cherry and black plum. Luscious rich flavours coat the palate—black Bing cherry, dried currant, fig and raisin—followed by a lingering finish layering on dried berry fruit, bittersweet chocolate and the tell-tale Amarone bite on the aftertaste—soft, fine-grained tannin adds structure to this magnificent red. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Catapereiro ‘Escolha’ 2012
Vinho Regional Tejo $15.95 (380808) 14.0% alcohol
A red blend of Alicante Bouschet—a ‘teinturier’ grape with red flesh—Arogonez, aka Tempranillo, this opens with savoury-laden aromas of roasted herbs, dark cherry and tobacco leaf leading the way to a full-bodied, fully textured surge of rich, ripe fruit—bramble berry, black cherry and ripe mulberry interlaced with dark chocolate and plenty of charm. There’s also a structured, warm, balanced, peppery finish in this exceptional-value red. (Vic Harradine)

Maritávora Tinto 2010
DOC Douro $21.95 (293449) 14.0% alcohol
Savoury-laced dark field berry fruit, cedar aromas and hints of mocha provide clarion call for a rich, deep and luscious flow of flavour with mixed spice, cola, bramble berry fruit and ripe mulberry all involved. It’s medium-full bodied, balanced on a pin with good moderating acidity, a solid line of fruit and soft-tannin underpinning. Give it a go with grilled steak or lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)

Quinta Da Fronteira ‘Selecção Do Enólogo’ 2011
DOC Douro $22.95 (408088) 14.5% alcohol
Opaque, black-purple hued in the glass, this dishes up heady aromas of sandalwood, red and black berry fruit and campfire smoke. A textured gusher of spice-infused dark berry fruit, black cherry, racy cranberry and black plum compote coat the palate. This offers great tang, persistence of fruit, structure, soft tannin and balance throughout. Aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Borsao ‘Tres Picos’ Garnacha 2012

DO Campo de Borja $19.95 (273748) 15.0% alcohol

A perennial favourite that always deserves consideration—this 2012 vintage is a three-peat earning 4½ stars every year since first reviewed in 2009. Fig, prune, savory herbs and dark berry fruit aromas are harbingers of rich, luscious, mouth-filling waves of bramble berry and black currant supported by good acidity, fine-grained tannin, good balance and a boatload of style and panache. It’s good weight and nicely textured, the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Cara Nord 2013
DO Conca de Barberà $19.95 (418186) 14.0% alcohol
Wild herb and mineral aromas play with floral notes and field berry fruit on the nose of this dense and well-structured red blend—42% Garnacha, 38% Syrah, 20% Garrut, a local grape. It’s medium-full bodied with decent texture and a steady wash of red and black currant rolling over the palate infusing the dry, lengthy finish. Give it a go with rare-grilled flank steak. (Vic Harradine)

Heredad De Baroja ‘Gran Reserva’ 2004
DOCa Rioja $24.95 (276113) 13.5% alcohol
A perfumed bouquet of pipe tobacco, leather, Asian spice and red berry fruit provide segue for outstanding flavours—pie cherry and red currant balanced with ripe mulberry and juicy black currant—all garnished with savoury herbs and fine-grained tannin. Medium-full weight with structure, balance and purity of fruit, palate flavours replay on the delicious aftertaste. Pour with grilled rack of lamb and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

Juan Gil Monastrell 2012
DOP Jumilla $23.95 (1677) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of truffles, toasty oak and red berry fruit aromas introduce a medium-full bodied, textured river of cassis, ripe sweet mulberry and kirsch liqueur bathing the palate. It’s balanced, has good depth with oodles of red fruit acidity and charm. This pairs and pours well with mushroom risotto. (Vic Harradine)

Montebuena ‘Cuvée KPF’ Rioja 2012 

DOC Rioja $15.95 (211029) 13.0% alcohol 

The progressive, Basque, grower’s coop producing this used 100%, hand-harvested Tempranillo. Opaque purple, it’s rich with aromas of ripe berry fruit, spice, vanilla and earth. Dry, medium bodied, the limited oak exposure showcases tangy raspberry, red cherry and blackberry flavours, mingling with spicy, peppery notes, hints of vanilla and a mineral undercurrent. Nicely structured, the tasty seam of acidity shines through the lasting, fruity, slightly peppery finish—enjoy with grilled meats and veggies. (Susan Desjardins) 

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: June 27, 2015

La Cadierenne ‘Cuvée Grande Tradition’ Bandol Rosé 2014 

AOC Bandol $18.95 (119453) 13.5% alcohol 
Barely pink-hued, it dishes up a delicate array of aromas—strawberry, watermelon and rose petals. In spite of the subtle beginning, it’s medium-plus weight and nicely textured with a surge of flavour coating the palate—piquant spice, pie cherry and red currant to the fore. Flavours replay on the refreshing finish. Pour alongside pan-seared salmon under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

  
Culmina Hypothesis 2012

VQA Okanagan Valley $39.95 (414243) 14.0% alcohol
Deep, rich aromas of briary berry and tobacco interplay with black plum and smoky/toasty bits on the nose. It coats the palate with a persistent stream of ripe fruit and tang—red currant with passion fruit juxtaposed with briary berry and juicy black cherry. Full bodied with good mouth feel, this dishes up piquant, peppery spice on the aftertaste and a lick of still-resolving tannin. Pour now after a three-hour aeration/decant or pop corks 2017 – 2021. (Vic Harradine)

Rancho Zabaco ‘Sonoma Heritage Vines’ Zinfandel 2013
Sonoma County $19.95 (434605) 14.8% alcohol
Here’s a value-packed, spice-laden, fruity Zin with a 7% splash of Petite Sirah that’ll set a hedonistic, Zin-lovers heart ablaze. It leaps from the glass with spice-infused aromas of bramble berry jam before dazzling the palate with a fruity river of ripe, sweet mulberry, black currant and wisps of piquant spice and dark coffee. Medium weight with good mouth feel, it finishes balanced, delectable and fruit forward with each sip as good or better than the previous. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: October 17, 2015

  
Creekside Estate ‘Queenston Road Vineyard - Reserve’ Viognier 2013
VQA St. David’s Bench $29.95 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of honeysuckle, baklava and notes of hazelnut abound in this amazing expression of Niagara Viognier. It bathes the palate with a surge of unctuous flavours that are pure ambrosia—honeyed apricot, blood orange and lemon curd to the fore. It’s good weight and heavenly textured with a monumental finish and aftertaste—palate flavours replay along with sweet vanilla, piquant spice and a notion of grapefruit pith. This limited edition, only 150 cases, is 100% Viognier, fermented and aged 9 months in oak on its lees—stunning wine. (Vic Harradine)

Classics Catalogue: Fall 2015

  
Tawse Winery Meritage 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $59.95 13.5% alcohol
This almost even split of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon delivers aromas of dark berry fruit, graphite, cedar and grilled herbs. It dazzles the palate with a surge of sweet and tang—ripe mulberry and juicy red raspberry meet pie cherry and racy red currant. It’s medium bodied with textured mouth feel, good structure and a well-integrated 18 months in French oak barrel underpinned by fine-grained tannin. The finish is dry, balanced and lip-smacking. Aerate/decant three hours, popping corks now to 2023. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: December 2015

  
Featherstone ‘Joy - Premium Cuvée’ Sparkling Wine 2011

VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (310334) 12.5% alcohol
From the festooned crown-cap closure to the very last bubble, this Chardonnay - Traditional Method sparkler’s a winner. It delivers persistent, fine-bead bubbles and aromas of orchard fruit and citrus. Stylish and flavourful, the palate’s treated to lively river of lemon curd and lime yoghurt interlaced with nectarine and notions of Granny Smith apple carried along by oodles of delightful bubbles. It finishes crisp, refreshing and value packed. Bravo! (Vic Harradine)

  
Tawse Winery ‘Limestone Ridge’ Riesling 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $21.95 10.0% alcohol
This Limestone Ridge, single-vineyard fruit was farmed organically and biodynamically. Stylish aromas of green plum, minerality, lime and Kiwi fruit herald a delicious wash of Key lime pie and lime cordial with hints of piquant spice and flinty/mineral notes. Medium bodied and brimming with tang, it finishes lengthy and mouth-watering good. Pour alongside steamed mussels in cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

• The following Featherstone Cabernet Franc is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select stores

  
Featherstone Cabernet Franc 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 12.5% alcohol
This is refined and charming finishing lengthy and flavourful; it was hand harvested and indigenous-yeast fermented. An involved nose of tobacco, chocolate and black cherry aromas provide segue to a mid-weight, smooth and mellow, nicely balanced wash of red and black currant interwoven with spice and wisps of cherry pie filling. It’s good to go now and versatile—sip on its own or pour with roast chicken, gnocchi with pancetta, or your idea of comfort food. (Vic Harradine)

Domaine Font De Michelle ‘CuvéeTradition’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012 

AOP Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France $47.95 (400358) 15.2% alcohol
The Gonnet family has owned land since the 1600s with present vines +45-years old. This fabulous red blend—70% Grenache/10% Syrah/10% Mourvèdre and 10% field blend—leaps from the glass with bramble berry, tobacco and black licorice aromas. It surges over the palate with delectable flavours of heady black Bing cherry, ripe mulberry and cassis. Balanced, structured and lively, it finishes lengthy, luscious and oozing fruit and lip-smacking tang. Good to go now and on to 2023. (Vic Harradine)  

C & D ‘Saint-Tropink’ Rosé 2014 

AOP Côtes de Provence, France $12.65 (405431) 12.5% alcohol 
Watermelon and sliced strawberry aromas open up this spice-laden gem. It refreshes the palate with a gentle flow of spice, ruby red grapefruit and notions of candied cherry flavours. It’s medium bodied with smooth mellow texture and a crisp, clean finish. It’s just the wine to sip during a day in the sun or to pair with charcuterie, deli board, roast chicken or smoked salmon. Offering exceptional value, pick up a half dozen. (Vic Harradine)  

  
Tawse Winery ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (130989) 13.0% alcohol
Winemaker Paul Pender took the heartbreak grape from a heartbreak vintage and fashioned a top-drawer red—a tip of the hat to Paul. Roasted herbs, cola and black plum aromas announce a nicely balanced, light-medium weight and well-textured river of passion fruit, blueberry and savoury herbs with wisps of strawberry jam. The pristine purity of fruit persists through the savoury-infused, lengthy finish and aftertaste—a thing of beauty. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Tawse Quarry Road Chardonnay is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select stores

  
Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road’ Chardonnay 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (111989) 13.0% alcohol
This organic/biodynamic gem is a perennial favourite. Delicate aromas of sandalwood, citrus and hints of baking spice herald a focused mouthful of tangy lime cordial garnished with mineral/slate undertones and crisp green apple, all delivered with great élan. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a stylish finish. The aftertaste lingers with lemon pie filling, piquant spice, chalky minerality and a boatload of value and charm. This is not to be missed and will develop further after short-term ageing. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

• The following Boschendal Chardonnay is $1. off the price shown now to June 21, 2015

Boschendal ‘1685’ Chardonnay 2013
WO Western Cape, South Africa $14.80 (367698) 14.0% alcohol
Boschendal has been making wine in the Franschhoek Valley for over 300 years. Tropical fruit, ripe apple, sweet vanilla and pear aromas precede a balanced, medium-bodied gusher of apple pie, pineapple and lemon curd with wisps of minerality and toasty oak. There’s good mouth feel and plenty of tang on the crisp, clean, refreshing finish. Good to go now with pan-seared freshwater fish—very good value here. (Vic Harradine)

  
Grange of Prince Edward ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2013

VQA Prince Edward County $16.95 (230227) 12.5% alcohol
This is balanced, sprightly and damn good value. Light-ruby hued with quiet aromas of earthy notes, spice and red berry fruit, this streaks across the palate with a laser-like stream of tangy Montmorency cherry, cranberry and notions of passion fruit. It’s light on its feet with nerve and verve and purity of fruit that lingers on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled duck breasts or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Ironstone ‘Obsession’ is $1. off the price shown now to June 21, 2015

Ironstone ‘Obsession’ Symphony 2013
California, $14.95 (295931) 12.0% alcohol
The Symphony grape was bred in 1981 by Dr. Olmo of UC Davis in California; Ironstone handles it beautifully. Alluring aromas of musk spice and rosewater introduce a semi-sweet, palate-bathing river of ripe mango, grilled pineapple and white nectarine. This is full of value, medium bodied with a gently flowing, creamy smooth aftertaste of tropical fruit and lemon pie filling. Pair with spicy Asian cuisine. 

• The following Laurent Miquel Unoaked Chardonnay earns 7 bonus AirMiles now to June 21.

Laurent Miquel Pere et Fils ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2013
IGP Pays d’Oc, France $12.95 (157909) 13.0% alcohol
The Miquel family are eighth-generation winemakers still carrying on time-honored traditions while layering on carefully chosen modern techniques. Delicate aromas of orchard fruit and floral notes herald a mid-weight, satin smooth wash of lemony tang interwoven with ripe pear and lime zest. The finish is crisp and racy setting up a favourable pairing with breaded, pan-seared calamari rings. You have to like the price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Rocca delle Macie ‘Riserva’ Chianti 2010
DOCG Chianti, Italy $15.95 (111641) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of sandalwood, black plum and pipe tobacco provide segue for a smoothly textured wash of briary berry and spice interweaving with passion fruit and wisps of fine-grained tannin. This is fruity, balanced and medium bodied. It finishes with more of the same—juicy with sweet and tang. Pour this value-packed gem with all your favourites—steak, burgers, wings and pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Rocca delle Macie ‘Vernaiolo’ Chianti 2013
DOCG Chianti, Italy $14.95 (269589) 12.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, leaf tobacco and toasty notes open a balanced, medium-bodied stream of red cherry, bramble berry and mixed spice. It’s lightly textured with a smooth, mellow, mid-length finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside lighter-styled red meat appetizers, pizza or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Shingleback Sauvignon Blanc – Semillon is $2. off the price shown now to June 21, 2015

Shingleback ‘Haycutters’ Sauvignon Blanc – Semillon 2014
Adelaide Hills/McLaren Vale, Australia $15.80 (207365) 12.0% alcohol
Honeyed orchard fruit and lemony aromas make way for a mid-weight racy stream of ripe tropical fruit and lemon curd garnished with white grapefruit pith. It’s crisp, clean and refreshing with a mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared fish, grilled calamari or steamed mussels. Extremely good value once you apply the $2. discount. (Vic Harradine)

  
Strewn ‘Rogue’s Lot’ Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc 2012

VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (65342) 12.9% alcohol 
This is an even split of the two Cabs dishing up a heady nose of pipe tobacco, aromatic bitters and lively red cherry. It’s fresh and racy on the palate with a laser-like beam of boysenberry jam and red currant interwoven with pie cherry and passion fruit. This is medium bodied with a long finish and great tang throughout. This pairs and pours with lasagna, spicy wings or pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico is $2. off the price shown now to June 21, 2015

Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico 2012
DOCG Chianti, Italy $18.95 (741769) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of savoury roasted herbs mingle with piquant spice preceding a magical flow of racy red cherry and currant bathing the palate persisting through the finish and aftertaste. It’s very good value, balanced and light-mid weight with good persistence of fruit flavour throughout. This sips well on its own, but really shines with spicy manicotti, lasagna or pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Tini Romagna Sangiovese is $2. off the price shown now to June 21, 2015

Tini Romagna Sangiovese 2013
DOC Romagna, Italy $10.95 (179432) 12.0% alcohol
Here’s a nifty number punching above its weight—good value here, especially after applying the $2. discount—it’s light on its feet with red fruit flavour and plenty of tang. Aromas of red berry fruit and wisps of tobacco dominate the nose on this N. Italian red. It streaks over the palate with red currant and cranberry flavour mingling with pie cherry and ripe red plum infusing the mid-lengthy, dry, racy aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce, pizza or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

• Order the following two wines by the case for delivery to home, office or restaurant from Closson Chase or pick it up from the winery in Hillier, Prince Edward County. 

  
Closson Chase ‘Closson Chase Vineyard/South Clos’ Chardonnay 2013 

VQA Prince Edward County $39.95 12.5% alcohol 
The single-vineyard, hand-picked fruit was cultured-yeast fermented, underwent malolactic conversion in barrel and spent 17 months ageing in French oak, 20% new. It leaps from the glass with robust aromas of toasty oak, gunflint and piquant spice. Baked apple, ginger-flecked crème brulée, stone fruit and racy lemon curd coat the palate, medium-full bodied, creamy textured. The endless finish of spice, citrus and tang is absolutely delectable. This stylish, showy Chardonnay will reward another 12 months in bottle, drinking on to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

  
Closson Chase ‘Closson Chase Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2012 

VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 11.5% alcohol 
A tapestry of savoury-tinged aromas fill the air, developed after spending 28 months ageing in French oak—cedar, truffle oil, pencil shavings and tobacco leaf. The mid-weight, lightly textured, sweet and tang stream of pie cherry, crabapple jelly and strawberry/rhubarb compote bathes the palate persisting through the dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This has structure, balance and that ‘je ne sais quoi’ quality of fine Pinot Noir. (Vic Harradine)

• Purchase the following wine, and reviewed wine in the May 27 newsletter, by the case for daily home, restaurant or office delivery online from Creekside Estate or pick up from the winery in Jordan. This Viognier is slated for a late-summer, 2015 winery release.

  
Creekside Estate ‘Queenston Road Vineyard - Reserve’ Viognier 2013
VQA St. David’s Bench $29.95 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of honeysuckle, baklava and notes of hazelnut abound in this amazing expression of Niagara Viognier. It bathes the palate with a surge of unctuous flavours that are pure ambrosia—honeyed apricot, blood orange and lemon curd to the fore. It’s good weight and heavenly textured with a monumental finish and aftertaste—palate flavours replay along with sweet vanilla, piquant spice and a notion of grapefruit pith. This limited edition, only 150 cases, is 100% Viognier, fermented and aged 9 months in oak on its lees—stunning wine. (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following wines by the case for delivery to home, office or licensee from Grange of Prince Edward along with those reviewed in the April 28, 2015 and May 13, 2015 winecurrent newsletter.

  
Grange of Prince Edward ‘Select’ Cabernet Franc 2011

VQA Prince Edward County $20.95 13.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, cracked black pepper and roasted herb aromas introduce a light-on-its-feet flow of candied red cherry and red currant jelly, balanced and brimming with confectionary sweet and racy tang through the mouth-watering finish. It’s ready for sipping now with enough oomph, charm and balance to pour well with pork, veal or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

  
Grange of Prince Edward ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2013

VQA Prince Edward County $16.95 (230227) 12.5% alcohol
This is balanced, sprightly and damn good value. Light-ruby hued with quiet aromas of earthy notes, spice and red berry fruit, this streaks across the palate with a laser-like stream of tangy pie cherry, cranberry and notions of passion fruit. It’s light on its feet with nerve and verve and purity of fruit that lingers on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled duck breasts or roast chicken.

  
Grange of Prince Edward ‘Lot 2 – Limited Production’ Riesling Brut 2013

Product of Canada $29.95 11.7% alcohol 
This off-dry, flavourful sparkling wine has light mousse with plenty of sweet flavour on the palate. Aromas of flinty slate and spiced baked apple set the table for a flavourful mouthful of sweet apple candy and notions of candied pear that bathe the palate replaying on the finish and aftertaste. Good to go now as an aperitif. (Vic Harradine)

• Purchase the following wine by the case for daily home, restaurant or office delivery online from Featherstone or pick up from the winery in Vineland along with wine reviewed in the May 27, 2015 newsletter.

  
Featherstone Pinot Noir 2011

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $24.95 (372425) 12.0% alcohol
Rosewood, savoury notes and red cherry aromas introduce a juicy mouthful of red fruit—cherry and currant—interwoven with wisps of tart rhubarb. There’s good balance, and red fruit flavour persisting throughout. It’s medium bodied with decent mouth feel and a lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour alongside coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)

• Here’s a great wine that also sports a heart-warming aside—it’s named for owner/winemaker David Johnson’s mother, Joyce, and recently won, ‘Trophy for Best Sparkling Wine of the Year’, at the All Canadian Wine Championships.

  
Featherstone ‘Joy - Premium Cuvée’ Sparkling Wine 2011

VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (310334) 12.5% alcohol
From the festooned crown-cap closure to the very last bubble, this Chardonnay - Traditional Method sparkler’s a winner. It delivers persistent, fine-bead bubbles and aromas of orchard fruit and citrus. Stylish and flavourful, the palate’s treated to lively river of lemon curd and lime yoghurt interlaced with nectarine and notions of Granny Smith apple carried along by oodles of delightful bubbles. It finishes crisp, refreshing and value packed. Bravo! (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following wine, along with wine from previous May 13 and May 27, 2015 winecurrent newsletters, by the mixed case of 6 or 12 for daily home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario online from Huff Estates or pick up from the winery in Bloomfield, Prince Edward County.

Lauren Harper stepped off the plane returning from Europe with a bottle tucked under her arm. A customs officer eyed it suspiciously. She smiled and offered, ‘A bottle of wine; got it for Stephen.’ The officer nodded, ‘Great trade, Ma’am.’ Here’s another great trade, Tawse Winery from Niagara and Huff Estates from Prince Edward County swapped fruit in 2013. Huff gave Tawse Chardonnay from their vaunted South Bay Vineyard and Tawse sent Huff Pinot Noir from their premiere Quarry Road Vineyard—each made wine with the others grapes. Here’s a review of the Pinot Noir Huff made from the Niagara, Quarry Road Vineyard fruit.

  
Huff Estates ‘Quarry Road Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2013

VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula $30.00 12.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, grilled herbs and rose petal aromas abound as precursor to a tang-laden stream of red currant, raspberry and flecks of minerality bathing the palate. It’s medium bodied with structure, lovely mouth feel and excellent purity of fruit persisting through the lip-smacking finish with a wisp of oak on the aftertaste—fermented and aged 14 months in oak tank. Another 12 months in bottle will enhance this already top-notch red. Kudos to Tawse for the fruit and Huff winemaker, Fréderic Picard, for the masterful handing of it. (Vic Harradine)

• And speaking of Tawse, the following wines are available by the case for daily home, office or restaurant delivery online from Tawse or can be picked up at the winery on Cherry Ave. in Vineland. 

  
Tawse Winery Meritage 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $59.95 13.5% alcohol
This almost even split of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon delivers aromas of dark berry fruit, graphite, cedar and grilled herbs. It dazzles the palate with a surge of sweet and tang—ripe mulberry and juicy red raspberry meet pie cherry and racy red currant. It’s medium bodied with textured mouth feel, good structure and a well-integrated 18 months in French oak barrel underpinned by fine-grained tannin. The finish is dry, balanced and lip-smacking. Aerate/decant three hours, popping corks now to 2023. (Vic Harradine)

  
Tawse Winery ‘Limestone Ridge’ 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $21.95 10.0% alcohol
This Limestone Ridge, single-vineyard fruit was farmed organically and biodynamically. Stylish aromas of green plum, minerality, lime and Kiwi fruit herald a delicious wash of Key lime pie and lime cordial with hints of piquant spice and flinty/mineral notes. Medium bodied and brimming with tang, it finishes lengthy and mouth-watering good. Pour alongside steamed mussels in cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine is available by the case for home, office or restaurant delivery from Strewn or can be picked from the winery on Lakeshore Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake. 

  
Strewn Winery Cabernet Rosé 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.15 13.0% alcohol
This Rosé blend—67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc—delivers an aromatic nose of freshly sliced strawberry, red pepper jelly and raspberry. It bathes the palate with a fruity, tangy wash of cherry cordial, sugared and grilled red grapefruit and red currant jam. It’s medium bodied with good texture and long finish. Pour with charcuterie, roast chicken or smoked salmon. (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment (wine delivered in Ontario within a few short days)

• Order the following Peter Franus wines by the case of 12 for home, office or restaurant delivery online from Profile Wine Group.

Peter Franus Chenin Blanc 2013
Napa Valley $32.95 14.2% alcohol
This limited-production gem, only 200 cases produced, reminds one of quality Chenin from the Loire. It opens with alluring aromas of honeysuckle, nutty notes and tropical fruit aromas. Bathing the palate with a creamy-smooth, off-dry flow of honeydew melon and pit fruit, it shows great balance on the mid and back palate with lemon pie filling and piquant spice making an appearance. The lingering finish is dry, balanced and mouth watering. (Vic Harradine)

Peter Franus Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Napa Valley $34.95 14.2% alcohol
This gets full marks for the fabulous nose—floral notes, fig, ripe orchard fruit and notions of lemongrass. Assistant winemaker, Tim Dolven, explained the Sauvignon Blanc clone is ‘Musqué’, originating in Bordeaux; it also affects the taste, ameliorating grassy, sharp, herbaceous flavours. This delivers a delectable experience with a palate-pleasing stream of lemon-lime tang interwoven with ripe yellow plum and white nectarine. It’s medium weight and well textured—20% of the wine aged on spent yeast cells, aka ‘on the lees’—with a crisp refreshing, sweet and tang finish. (Vic Harradine)

Peter Franus ‘Brandlin’ Zinfandel 2012
Mount Veeder $57.95 14.9% alcohol
Their flagship wine has good structure, deft balance, persistent purity of fruit and is absolutely delicious—it was tough to spit. The single-vineyard, dry-farmed, old-vine fruit spent 16 months in French oak barrel, 35% new. Aromas of cherry, floral notes, piquant spice and briary berry waft from this medium-full bodied, beautifully textured Zin. It coats the palate infusing the finish and aftertaste with satin smooth waves of mint-infused dark cherry, baking spice and kirsch liqueur. Wonderful with spicy pulled pork or smoked, grilled duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order (wine delivered in Ontario in 8 – 10 weeks)

• Order the following Peter Franus wines by the case for home, office or restaurant delivery online from Profile Wine Group. The Cabernet Sauvignon by the case of 12 and the Proprietary Red Blend by the case of 6.

Peter Franus Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Napa Valley $67.95 14.5% alcohol
The Cab Sauv was sourced from a Howell Mountain vineyard nestled between Phelps and Heitz—it’s tony Napa terroir. The 10% Cab Franc hails from cool-ish climate Truchard Vineyard in northern Carneros. This fruit coalesced into a firmly structured wine with plenty of ripe red fruit and good moderating acidity. Red currant and red cherry race across the palate with notions of sweet vanilla and red plum. It finishes with good fruit and tang with an underpinning of fine-grained tannin. Aerate/decant two hours and pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Peter Franus ‘Proprietary Red Blend’ 2012
Napa Valley $74.95 14.5% alcohol
This 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Cab Franc, red blend delivers an aroma and flavour profile showcasing ripe, plump fruit with style and charm. Black currant and baking spice aromas mingle with roasted herbs on the nose while a complex, medium-bodied, generously textured surge of cassis, bramble berry and baking spice coat the palate. It finishes deftly balanced with good fruit, wisps of soft-tannin and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following wine by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery (in Ontario) from Nokhrin Wines or email, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

La Canosa ‘Nummaria’ Rosso Piceno Superiore 2013
DOP Rosso Piceno, Italy $17.45 13.5% alcohol
This 70% Sangiovese/30% Montepulciano red blend is balanced, complex and flavourful, punching far above the price. Sandalwood, dark cherry and earthy aromas precede a luscious, complex, palate-bathing river of lively red cherry, ripe mulberry and notions of spice-infused black plum. It’s mid-full weight with creamy-smooth texture and stunning finish replaying flavours with a savoury bite—deftly balanced, fruity and lip-smacking delicious. Pour with grilled pork chops or spice/herb-rubbed, roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

La Canosa ‘Musé’ Rosso 2012
IGP Marche $18.95 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of ripe, dark berry fruit, pipe tobacco and baking spice introduce a satin-textured wash of black currant and juicy, black Bing cherry interwoven with cola, sweet vanilla and black licorice along with wisps of soft, fine-grained tannin. This is 100% Montepulciano, medium-full bodied with excellent structure, depth and balance. It finishes lengthy and luxurious with a replay of palate flavours along with hints of red currant and mineral notes—aerate/decant for a couple of hours before serving. This is excellent value. (Vic Harradine)

La Canosa ‘Nullius’ Rosso 2012
IGP Marche $1995 14.5% alcohol
This 100% Sangiovese will make you forget most others you’ve tasted, especially if aerated/decanted three hours before pouring—it’s balanced with depth, complexity and great structure. Briary berry and red currant mingle with roasted herbs and piquant spice on the palate with wonderful moderating acidity appearing on the back palate and aftertaste. It finishes lengthy and lively, with each sip as good or better than the previous. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan