Vintages Release January 21 2005

Syrah and Shiraz: This catalogue starts with a great range of varietal Shiraz and Syrah, and a few blends where the grape is dominant. There's great opportunity here for an inexpensive comparative tasting of styles and regions.

France

**** drink now
Thierry and Guy "Le Freak" Shiraz-Viognier
Vin de Pays d'Oc $15.95 (672261)
From les folks who bring you the Fat Bastard range, un new wine that's 85% Shiraz and 15% Viognier-that red-white assemblage that's so successful in the Northern Rhône. Zut, alors! And this works very well, too. It has ripe, intense aromas and flavours of black cerises, with hints of black pepper and other spices. Good weight, nice complexity, ripe tannins, all you need for a meal of grilled lamb. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Mas des Aveylans Syrah "Prestige" 2003
Vin de Pays du Gard $23.95 (673244)
Lots going on here with a warm, just out of the oven, cherry pie nose to get you started. Black currant and sour cherry flavours abound in this medium to full-bodied red. The mid palate is sweet black fruit and the lengthy finish delivers a nice touch of tang to clean it up nicely. There are ripe tannins to give it structure and longevity. The effect is a well balanced wine. Drink now to 2010 and buy in multiples as the price is right. (VH)

Australia/California

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rockbare Shiraz 2003
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (661991)
This is a Shiraz for lovers of Australian Shiraz who like their wine to complement food. It has all the flavour, intensity and power that Shiraz-lovers love, but it stays this side of jammy and has a complexity, even elegance, that will pair well with dishes like well-seasoned grilled red meat. Look for big dark fruit flavours with spicy, earthy notes, and a well-developed finish. It's a very good price for this quality. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Ferngrove Shiraz 2003
Frankland River, Western Australia $15.95 (694463)
The medicinal nose of stewed fruit and cherry cough syrup happily gives way to a very nice Shiraz that has been wisely sealed under screw cap. This gold medal winner has an interesting and involved flavour profile of black spicy plums, tar and toasty oak. More of the same on the mellow finish mark it a candidate for early and easy drinking with grilled lamb tenderloin. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Paringa "Individual Vineyard" Shiraz 2003
South Australia $14.95 (914366)
Big aromas of dark fruit and mint here, then a mouthful of red and dark fruit with accents of black pepper, mint, smoke and spice. Big on entry, it seems a little distracted at mid-palate, but picks up steam again at the end. It makes a very worthy partner to grilled red meat and hearty stews. (RP)

Other countries

****1/2 drink or cellar
Banfi "Colvecchio" Syrah 2001
DOC Sant'Antimo, Tuscany $39.95 (710988)
Big, refined, and elegant were the words that come to mind as I sniffed and then tasted this. It delivers lovely Syrah cherry flavours with classic peppery notes, together with accents of licorice, coffee and herbs. It's very stylish. You can drink it now (with well-herbed red meat) or tuck it away another three or four years. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
KWV Cathedral Cellar Shiraz 2000
WO Western Cape, South Africa $16.95 (561142)
Already nearly six years on, and this is holding on well enough to put it aside for another two years. Or drink it now with a grilled, seasoned veal chop and garlic mash. There are hints of dried fruit among the cherry flavours, there's that tell-tale South African tarry, smoky note, and there are accents of coffee. This is worth trying with a younger South African Shiraz, just to get an idea of the effects of age. It's better than looking in the mirror. (RP)

Blends with Syrah or Shiraz dominant

***1/2 drink or cellar
Graham Beck Shiraz-Cabernet 2003
WO Western Cape, South Africa $12.95 (661835)
A very good value, juicy, flavoursome blend, with red and dark fruit, some complexity (spice, pepper) and soft tannins. It's easy drinking with a fruity finish and makes a perfect choice for mid-week meat-based pasta or red meat dishes. (RP)

Sparkling wine

****1/2 drink now
Domaine du Viking Sparkling Vouvray
AOC Vouvray $19.95 (650739)
Beeswax and honey aromas form the beautifully lifted nose on this dandy sparkler. The attack is citrussy and ripe pit fruit coalescing to give an intriguing sweet and sour taste. This, wrapped around the medium-bodied weight of the wine, provides creamy texture that carries through to the lengthy finish. It would go well with oysters Pernod. Extremely well-priced and worth getting a couple of bottles. (VH)

Canada: red

**** drink now
Stoney Ridge "Bench" Merlot 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (544601)
This is a very decent, medium-bodied Merlot with really attractive red and dark plum flavours, with fairly complex notes of spice, earthiness and herbs. A slight, intriguing, jammy sinew comes and goes. It's dry and well balanced, and will go well with vegetarian pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (RP)

U.S.A.: red

**** drink now
Ironstone Merlot 2003
California $16.95 (704353) or $8.95/375ml (970954)
A Merlot for food. This is a nice change from the heavy, fruity Merlots that clog your taste buds and render food tasteless. Look for bright, clear fruit here, with good complexity and nice balance. It has enough weight to handle a medium-rare steak, and you'll taste every mouthful. (RP)

****1/2 cellar
Ridge "Geyserville" Zinfandel-Merlot-Petit Verdot 2003
Sonoma County $44.95 (723072)
Eucalyptus, berry fruit and leather aromatics spring from the nose of this iconic California gem. You will have to beat off the collectors, but it will be worth it to get a bottle of this full-bodied beauty. Lots happening on the palate with spicy, black ripe fruit and anise flavours all wrapped around noticeable tannins and well handled oak and acidity. Try this 2009 - 2015 with grilled rare backstraps of lamb and someone special. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Ridge "Home Ranch" Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Petit Verdot 2002
Santa Cruz Mountains $84.95 (595512)
A big, dense blend with swirling aromas and flavours of dark fruit and berries. There's a medicinal hint on the nose, and the flavours escalate from spiciness through coffee to chocolate. It's astringently dry right now, with furry tannins, and I'd suggest putting this to bed for five years, then opening one spring to eat with the season's first grilled red meat. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Ridge "Lytton Springs" Zinfandel-Petite Sirah-Carignan
Dry Creek Valley $44.95 (982413)
Mint and cassis aromas greet the taster on this light to medium-bodied perennial favourite. More elegant than powerful, there are cherry and plum flavours that are intertwined with notes of tobacco leaf. The tannins are still a bit firm, but manageable and the finish is lengthy and offers a bit more with a lingering sweet fruit forward taste. Drink now to 2010 with grilled rare tenderloin of beef. (VH)

Australia: white

***1/2 drink now
Milburn Park Chardonnay 2004
South Eastern Australia $12.95 (440321)
An aromatic nose consisting of nectarines and vanilla open the door to this medium-bodied, creamy textured Chard. There is a generous dollop of acidity to provide verve and tang, enough sweet flavours (apples and Bosc pear) and heft to make this a wise choice paired with veal, chicken or creamy pasta dishes. (VH)

**** drink now
Wits End "The Procrastinator" Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $15.95 (661975)
Gooseberry, nettles and mineral aromas waft from the glass of this easily identified SB. Tropical fruit and lemon zest flavours are prominent and delicious as they proved a zesty white with a lengthy and luxurious finish. All in all, a gorgeous wine that would pour well with sashimi, goat cheese or seafood ceviche. (VH)

Australia: red

**** drink or cellar
Hardys Bankside Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
South Australia $16.95 (995829)
An awesome nose of spice and dark Belgian chocolate form the greeting to this medium to full-bodied red from one of Australia's finest producers. The flavors are fruit forward (spicy black currant and plums) warm (14% alc.) with noticeable, but acceptable tannins. This is well priced, drinking now to 2009 and worthy of a multiple buy. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Milburn Park Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
South Eastern Australia $12.95 (431999)
There are no rough edges or sharp corners on this well-priced Cab. The nose is medicinal with a hint of cherry cough syrup while the taste profile is extremely pleasant with ripe fruit, a touch of acidity and a brush stroke of tannin coming together to produce a red that should please everyone. Easy to drink and very easy on the wallet. (VH)

Germany: white

****1/2 two glasses drink or cellar
Schloss Schönborn Riesling Kabinett 1996
QmP Rheingau $15.95 (710418)
What a glorious opportunity to taste an aged wine at an attractive price point! This low alcohol (8.6%) Riesling typifies why many experts consider it the greatest grape of them all. The nose delivers that petrol, mineral, floral bouquet and the rich creamy palate delivers wave after wave of sweet (peach and nectarine) and bracing (lemony) flavours. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Serve on its own as a fabulous welcoming wine or pair with tandoori chicken from now to 2012. Stock up. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
J. Geil I. Erben Riesling Kabinett 2004
QmP Rheinhessen $13.95 (994764)
You will love the floral, mineral nose and will not be disappointed with the off dry zesty flavours of lime and tropical fruit. Quite creamy in the mouth, it never-the-less holds its own with a generous dollop of lemon zest to balance off the perceptible sweetness. A lovely medium-length finish suggests a pairing with something spicy, like Thai noodles. Drink now to 2010.(VH)

Italy: white

***1/2 drink now
Lungarotti Pinot Grigio 2004
IGT Umbria $13.95 (372664)
A very nice effort in a wine world awash with less than acceptable PGs. The nose is fresh and clean with citrus and white flower aromas and the flavours are a lovely mix of white grapefruit, passion fruit and white peaches. It is light-bodied, but heavy on flavour and a nice cleansing finish that make this worth a try. A nice pairing might be mussels steamed in (this) white wine. (VH)

Italy: red

**** drink now
Librandi "Duca Sanfelice" Cirò Riserva 2001
DOC Cirò Riserva $16.95 (695874)
This is probably Calabria's most famous wine. It's typically flavoursome and hearty and often verges on the rustic, in the very best sense of the word. This Librandi has tangy texture with complex juicy red fruit, and overall it's very attractive. It's just great for barbecued meats, but if your grill is currently a white lump somewhere on the snowy wastes of your deck, open a bottle of this with broiled lamb chops. (RP)

Up-Stream on Winecurrent

Look for these wines in up-coming Vintages releases.

May 2006

**** drink or cellar
Santa Carolina "Reserva de Familia" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Maipo Valley, Chile $19.95
A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that offers some elegance. Aged for 12 months in French oak, it delivers complex aromas and flavours of red and dark fruit with notes of spice, pepper and licorice. It's smooth textured, well structured and medium weight, with sweet, manageable tannins and a good complex finish. In all, well made and well priced. (RP)

August 2006

**** drink now
Cono Sur Visión Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Casablanca Valley, Chile $18
The grapes for this wine were harvested from a single vineyard in the Casablanca Valley, only eight kilometres from the Pacific Ocean. The cooling winds give the grapes a good level of acidity and the relatively late harvest in the region allows them to develop rich flavours. The result is in this screwcap-sealed bottle, which delivers racy crispness with concentrated grassy, grapefruit and lemon-lime flavours. It's finely balanced and great value. Pair it with grilled seafood or dense white fish with a squeeze of lemon. (RP)

September 2006

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cono Sur Visión Pinot Noir 2004
Colchagua Valley, Chile $18
Cono Sur is the biggest producer of Pinot Noir in Chile, and one of the largest in the world. This vintage delivers a big fruity Pinot, dominated by flavours of black cherry and accented with spicy, earthy notes. It has lovely balance, ripe tannins and a long, sweet fruit finish. It's excellent value for a Pinot Noir of this quality and you can drink it now with grilled lamb or tuck it away for three or four years. As a bonus, it's the first of Cono Sur's Pinot Noirs to be sealed with a screwcap. (RP)

During 2006

***** cellar
Montes Alpha M 2003
Santa Cruz/Apalta Vineyard About $85
This is the top wine of Chile's iconic Montes winery. It's a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, that spends 18 months in new French oak-in a barrel room where the wine is serenaded night and day by Gregorian chants. The effects of the music are debatable, but what's clear is that you get a very elegant blend, with sweet red and black fruit dominating a multifaceted palate that's rich in the spice and coffee zones. The firm tannins are sweet and ripe, and I suggest cellaring this at least five years, and preferably ten. (RP)

During 2006

***** drink or cellar
Casa Silva "Altura" 2001
Colchagua Valley, Chile About $90
Many Chilean winemakers insist that Carmenère, which has become Chile's signature grape, performs best when blended with varieties that contribute structure and acidity. "Altura" blends 60% Carmenère with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Petit Verdot to make a spectacular and complex wine. It delivers rich fruit, dominated by dark plum and cherry, with a soft, sweet core and notes of coffee and chocolate. The balance is perfect, the tannins ripe, the texture velvety soft, and the finish long and luscious. This is one beautiful and elegant wine. You can drink it now (barbecued lamb is ideal) or hold it another five to eight years. (RP)

During 2006

**** drink or cellar
Concha y Toro "Terrunyo" Syrah 2004
Cachapual Valley
A well-made Syrah with good black plum and cherry fruit and peppery notes with a layer of toasty oakiness, this is medium bodied with a juicy texture and a long berry finish. Dry and lightly tannic, it verges on elegant in style. It's ready for drinking now, but cellaring for another two-three years will improve it by letting the flavour components fall into place more harmoniously. (RP)

New in the LCBO

Look for these new wines, or new vintages of existing wines, in the LCBO General List

Argentina

**** drink now
Bodegas Lurton Pinot Gris 2005
Valle de Uco $10.15 (556746)
Wow! This starts off with apple and floral notes then kicks into high gear with a flavour explosion in the mouth of gorgeously textured tropical fruit. This is beautifully balanced with a citrus zest to keep it clean and lively. The finish is lengthy, the price is terrific, what are you waiting for? (VH)

Australia

****1/2 drink now
Wakefield "Promised Land" Shiraz/Cabernet 2003
South Australia $14.25 (625343)
This is one gutsy, full bore red at a great price. Spiced black cherries whoosh from the glass of this opaque teeth-staining beauty. Huge flavours of cassis, black pepper and licorice form the sweet (14.5% alc.) mid palate whilst wrapped around perceptible, ripe tannins. All in all, well balanced with a clean fruity finish. Try now to 2009 with rare grilled lamb tenderloin slathered with butter, garlic and rosemary. (VH)

Canada

****1/2 drink now
Strewn "Semi-Dry" Riesling 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $10.95 (616599)
Baked apple pie and lanolin aromas waft from the involved nose of this Germanic-styled gem. Only slightly off dry, the viscous palate provides beautiful honeyed tropical fruit flavours that are deftly balanced with citrussy notes. The finish is lengthy, tangy and begs for spicy Asian fare. Try pork pot stickers in a spicy Thai sauce. Tremendous value. (VH)

Chile

**** drink or cellar
Errazuriz Estate Merlot 2004
Valle de Curicó $13.40 (297887)
A lovely Merlot with a smooth texture and medium body, this delivers aromas and flavours of ripe plums, along with some spiciness for interest. With good balance and easy-going tannins, it's great with red meat dishes. (RP)

France

**** drink or cellar
Château Canada Bordeaux Supérieur 2003
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $13.95 (559468)
The 2003 vintage of this wine has reached the LCBO, and it reflects the very warm growing season that year, when harvests across France took place weeks earlier than usual. This blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon is rich in dark fruit (plum to the fore) with good complexity. It's well made, has soft ripe tannins, and shows again that Bordeaux can turn out very good quality, value-priced wines. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Père Patriarche Chardonnay 2004
Vin de Pays d'Oc $9.95 (621805)
This has all the elements of well made Chard at much less than what you would expect to pay. The nose is fragrant with light floral and green apple aromas and the flavours are more of that Granny Smith apple with a touch of pit fruit thrown in the mix. It is medium-bodied, well balanced and offers a nice fruity finish. (VH)

New Zealand

****1/2 drink now
Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough $15.60 (554444)
A hole in one again with its zesty tang and lively finish. It possesses a quintessential nose of gooseberry and nettles while the zippy and refreshing flavours include passion fruit, tropical fruit and citrussy notes. Lots of texture on the palate and the finish is full of verve and flavour. This would match up well to grilled fish with a spicy salsa. (VH)

Portugal

***1/2 drink now
Quinta de Cabriz 2003
DO Dão $11.95 (949974)
A very well-paced blend of three varieties, all vinified separately before being blended and aged six months in French oak. It delivers a juicy texture with bright red fruit, good complexity and nice balance. It's well made and something different for mid-week pasta and lighter stews. (RP)

New from Ontario Wineries

Many of these wines are available only from the winery, although some might be available (as indicated in the reviews) from winery-owned retail stores or from home-delivery companies. To order from wineries directly, use the winery links at www.winecurrent.com.

***1/2 drink now
By Chadsey's Cairns "Prince Edward County" Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Ontario $24
Bearing the gold "100% Prince Edward County Grown" sticker that effectively established a PEC appellation in advance of legal recognition, this is a light-medium Pinot with quite well-defined fruit and nice complexity. Prince Edward County has some distance to travel, but wines like this are benchmarks along the way. It's reminiscent of a light New Zealand Pinot, and pairs well with straightforward grilled lamb. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Legends Cabernet Franc 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula
Very good typicity in this lighter style of Cabernet Franc. It has good red fruit flavours (plum, cherry) with hints of savoury, sage and the classic pencil-shavings. It's dry and well balanced, with a crisp, food-friendly texture. Pair it with osso bucco. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Stoney Ridge Reserve Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula
This is a Pinot that packs a lot more weight than its appearance in the glass suggests. It's quite pale and transparent, and right now there's sour cherry, but not much else, in the aromas. But get it in your mouth and your taste buds are enervated by serious depth of flavour, where dark, sweet and sour cherry mingle, and eucalyptus and herbal provide highlights. It's medium bodied with very nice length and pairs well with grilled herbed lamb. (RP)

New in Restaurants

****1/2 drink or cellar
Montes Cabernet-Carmenère 2004
Colchagua Valley/Apalta about $18
A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Carmenère, this packs a real wallop. It has rich, saturated dark fruit with notes of spice, pepper and roasted coffee, and is well structured. Full bodied with firm and ripe tannins, it finishes long sweet and spicy, and calls for a big red meat dish. Order from Whitehall Agency, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Catherine le Goeuil "Cuvée Marie Rouvère" Côtes-du-Rhône Cairanne 2003
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône Villages $23.95
The name's a bit of a mouthful, but then, so is the wine. It's a big, brutish red, juicy and rich, that delivers a wallop of black fruit that reflects that warm growing season of 2003. The dark cherry and plum are accented with smoke, spice, and garrigue herbs, and the wine is dry, with big, ripe tannins. For all that power, it has good complexity and balance, and the 14.5% alcohol slips by unnoticed. Pair this with big, well-seasoned red meat dishes. You can order from Airen Imports: (416) 604 4076. (RP)

**** drink now
Eugene Klipfel Tokay Pinot Gris 2004
AOC Alsace $19.90 (881599)
Just off-dry and very elegant, this shows the best traits of Alsatian Pinot Gris, with quite intense fruit (apricot stone, white peach, and honeyed notes), good weight and texture, fine balance, and a clean, crisp finish. You can order from R. Matthews Fine Wines at (416) 485 8356. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Les Peyrilles "Lou Garrigou" Rouge 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc About $11.95 (814947)
It was scorching all over France in the summer of 2003, but the south just baked in the sun. So did the grapes, and even though they were harvested early, they had an intensity and sugar content above the norm. This blend of Carignan and Syrah from 30-40 year-old vines is rich and fruity, but it has good structure, balance, and complexity. It's a terrific wine for hearty winter meals or the summer grill, and at this price you should buy it by the case. Order from Oakpoint Wines at (519) 337 5288. (RP)

Cheers!

Rod and Vic