March 30, 2015 Newsletter

The California Wine Fair is now upon us - visiting eight centres across Canada from coast to coast.

There are NO tickets sold at the door! 

Expect over 100 wineries represented and well more than 400 wines to taste in one gala event. It’s best to use the spit containers provided while sampling, and to arrange for public transportation.

Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year that one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets now @ www.calwine.ca and have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).

The California Wine Fair Tour moves across Canada on the following dates:

• Tuesday, April 7th: Québec City, Espace Dalhousie
• Wednesday, April 8th: Montreal, Québec, Le Centre Sheraton
• Friday, April 10th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa ( $75 per person from 7 to 9:30 pm)
• Monday, April 13th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
• Wednesday, April 15th: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Halifax Convention Centre
• Wednesday, April 22nd: Edmonton, Alberta, Shaw Conference Centre
• Friday, April 24th: Calgary, Alberta, BMO Centre, Calgary Stampede, Palomino Room
• Monday, April 27th: Vancouver, British Columbia, Vancouver Convention Centre

Newsletter highlights include:

• Exceptional value wine   – 4 of 40 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines and are found throughout the newsletter priced between $13.95 and $17.95; all are identified by the   icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
• Kosher Wine – the LCBO provided this timely media release to highlight the many kosher wines available for the beginning of Passover, Friday, April 3, 2015 Read more… 
• 5-star Wine – no wine rang the 5-star bell.
• Susan Selects – Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 150-183’ Riesling 2013 at $19.95 earning 4½ stars found after the Main Release under New in Ontario Wineries.
• Vic Picks – Dandelion Vineyards ‘Lionheart of the Barossa’ Shiraz 2012 at $19.95 earning 4½ stars found under Australia: Red Wine.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: April 4, 2015

Feature: Wine from Veneto

Le Bertarole ‘Podere Cariano’ Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2009
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $44.95 (403840) 15.5% alcohol
Exhibiting complexity, weight and substance, this well-balanced Amarone offers a plethora of rich aromas—dried cherries, black cherry, plum and chocolate caramel among them. Dry, full bodied, warm and spicy, the supple tannin and fine acidity create a well defined frame for a wine that’s brimming with ripe, spiced dark fruit. Notes of coffee and dark chocolate extend a pleasant bite to the warm, plummy finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Donatoni Massenà ‘Appassimento’ 2010 

IGT Rosso Veneto $16.95 (332403) 14.5% alcohol 

For my money, this is terrific value for a drink-me-now red—it’s nicely textured, balanced and bursting with fruit. Cherry and currant aromas on the nose, it coats the palate with a river of ripe, dark, bramble berry, fig and black plum compote mingling with kitchen spice and roasted herbs. Good weight and the balanced and beautiful aftertaste is icing on the cake—pick up a few for barbecues. (Vic Harradine) 

Monte Faustino Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2008
DOCG Recioto della Valpolicella Classico $45.95 (403857 14.0% alcohol
Dense and viscous in the glass, this aged, delicious and balanced dessert treat offers enticing aromas of dried fruits, spice and toasted nut. Intensely fruity and rich, there’s fullness and depth to the texture and flavours—notes of dried cherry, blackberry, caramel, roasted almond and vanilla. Quite luscious, the warmth of exotic spice lingers through the ripe, round fruity finish. Serve with a cranberry walnut tart or shortbread. (Susan Desjardins)

Montresor Soave Classico 2013
DOP Soave $13.95 (408302) 12.5% alcohol
Vinified mainly from Garganega, this Soave is dry, light-medium bodied, easy-going and approachable. Floral notes and a hint of almond garnish the nose with aromas of pear, melon and citrus replaying on the palate lifted by lively acidity. Serve well chilled with grilled white fish or pasta with pesto. (Susan Desjardins)

Stefano Accordini ‘Acinatico’ Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2012
DOC Ripasso Valpolicella Classico $19.95 (85159) 14.0% alcohol
Deep purple, this offers aromas of black cherry, dried fruit, vanilla, cinnamon toast and milk chocolate. Dry, full bodied, round and smooth in texture, the perceptible tannins offer a well-defined construct for tasty fresh red fruit while notes of dark chocolate-coated cherries and sweet spice replay through the warm finish. Pair with mushroom arrosto. (Susan Desjardins)

Le Ragose Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2010
DOC Ripasso Valpolicella Classico $21.95 (991984) 13.5% alcohol
Red cherry/berry aromas layer on an earthy quality bringing to mind underbrush, dried herbs and roasted peppers. Dry, medium-full bodied, there’s good structure here with fresh acidity paired with tangy red fruit. The earthiness hints at iron while spice and a touch of peppery and smoky toast garnish the clean finish. It’s a wine to serve with a range of meat-based pasta or grilled vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

Zenato Valpolicella Superiore 2012
DOC Valpolicella $17.95 (995704) 13.5% alcohol
There’s good complexity to this lush, dry red. Layered aromas of dried fruit and red berry, earth and leather notes and a touch of spiced vanilla bring the glass to your lips. The vivid fruit flavours harmonize with ripe tannin and fresh acidity to create a vibrant, balanced wine that’s an excellent value. Serve with veal chops with mushrooms or a platter of grilled meats and veggies. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

Cálem ‘Lágrima’ White Port 

DOC Douro, Portugal $16.95 (912568) 19.6% alcohol 

A delicate copper tone, this delightful white Port offers beguiling aromas and flavours of candied citrus peel, dried apricot, preserved peach and wildflower honey. It’s smooth, satiny and lush with a long warm finish. A great dessert wine to serve with an orange chiffon cake, it also makes a lovely light aperitif with tonic and a twist of lemon. (Susan Desjardins) 

Fortified Wine: Sherry

Bodegas Hidalgo Manzanilla La Gitana

DO Jerez y Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain $16.95 500 mL (745448) 15.0% alcohol

The expressive nose on this fully-textured Sherry is pure 'rancio', a term almost defying description, but think of dried, spicy fruit, over-ripe cantaloupe and burnt sugar—once experienced, never to be forgotten. This is dry, fully textured and offers salty, zesty flavours of nuts, figs and dried fruit. The finish is balanced, warm and lengthy. Serve chilled with sea food, especially briny shrimp. (Vic Harradine) 

Ontario: White Wine

Coyote’s Run ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2013
VQA Four Mile Creek $16.95 (116582) 13.5% alcohol
If you’re thinking ham or turkey for Easter, or any time, here’s a great local wine that brings together citrus, orchard fruit and a touch of mineral on the nose and palate. Dry, medium bodied, it’s silky yet lively, the fine backbone of acidity affirming its presence, the fruit mingling with a touch of sweet spice through the tasty finish. Celebrate and enjoy. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Fielding Viognier 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.95 (142323) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a classic, showing great weight and balance with characteristic floral aromas that wrap around notes of honeyed stone fruit and citrus underlain by an elusive mineral quality. Dry, medium bodied, round and ripe, the stone fruit replays on the palate joined by hints of grapefruit zest and framed by juicy acidity. Stainless steel fermentation retains the lively freshness of the fruit while partial oak aging adds substance and a hint of spice. Serve with lobster or turkey. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol
Barrel fermented and aged, this golden beauty offers well-balanced aromas of orchard and tropical fruit, buttered toast and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, showcasing a lush, creamy texture, the well-defined backbone of lively acidity accents the flavours of ripe pear, pineapple and tangerine. Pleasantly spicy, zesty and refreshing on the finish, it’s finely honed to deliver harmony and delight. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Rockway Vineyards ‘Late Harvest’ Vidal 2013
VQA Ontario $15.95 (413617) 500 mL 10.5% alcohol
There’s no surprise this was an award winner at the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair, given the highly expressive and absolutely delicious aromas that jump out of the glass—white flowers, apricot and peach, lemon curd, honey tangerine and lime for starters. It’s like satin on the palate, the luscious ripe fruit flavours lifted by very definite, yet subtly fresh, acidity. There’s terrific weight, flavour and balance; it’s outstanding value. Quite versatile, serve with waldorf salad followed by ham and finally, a lemon tart. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

  
Gehringer Brothers ‘Private Reserve’ Pinot Gris 2013
VQA Okanagan Valley $18.95 (347203) 13.2% alcohol
Proffering lifted aromas of pear and melon, yellow plum and citrus, this is well-rounded, balanced and medium-bodied Pinot Gris. The aromas carry through on the palate riding a wave of bright, juicy acidity complemented by a quiet note of spice. Finishing with style and verve, this nicely crafted gem works well with seafood, chicken or pork. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

  
Jackson-Triggs ‘Grand Reserve’ Merlot 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (563197) 14.0% alcohol
Fermented and aged in French oak, this Merlot offers a whiff of smoke, spice and cocoa wrapped around a core of ripe plum and black cherry. Dry, medium-full bodied, the well-defined acidity and tannin lift the tasty fruit flavours creating a vibrant yet round texture. It’s deftly balanced offering delicate notes of spice and an elusive mineral character; it finishes dry and tangy. This is a wonderful food wine that will pair well with prime rib or lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

  
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Rosé 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (172643) 12.0% alcohol
Rosé wines are a sure sign of spring, bringing versatility and freshness to the table. This is no exception, reliably good, veritably singing out the notes of ripening red berries and of cranberry juice. Dry, medium bodied, it’s juicy and vibrant with a fine seam of acidity supporting the tasty fruit through the fruity dry finish. Sip chilled or serve with salmon, salads, chicken or turkey. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

Brazin ‘Dry Creek Valley ‘(B)Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2012
Dry Creek Valley $19.95 (202457) 14.5% alcohol
Big, bold, powerful and fruity – need we say more? Fruit forward in a lavish way, this smoothly textured Zin delivers lashings of ripe plummy fruit, spice and chocolate notes on a restrained structure. Gulpable, it’s a crowd pleaser for any get together around the barbecue. (Susan Desjardins)

Bridlewood Estate Monterey County Pinot Noir 2012 

Monterey County, California $19.95 (361824) 14.1% alcohol 

This stylish Pinot takes the best from both worlds with a savoury nose and elegance from cool, damp Burgundy and deft balance with ripe, delicious fruit from sunny California. Aromas of savory herbs, tobacco and red berry fruit herald a delightful, balanced wash of ripe dark cherry and mulberry mingling with spice and delectable red cherry tang. It’s medium bodied with creamy smooth mouth feel and lingering finish. How good is that? (Vic Harradine) 

Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Sonoma County $23.95 (990440) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s a well-made, straightforward Cabernet, dry and full bodied, showcasing aromas and flavours of cassis and black cherry along with notes of herbs and vanilla. The fruit flavours are focused and toasty notes of oak well integrated while the subtle yet effective framework of ripe tannin and fine acidity offer good balance. Savour with grilled meats and good friends. (Susan Desjardins)

Oregon: Red Wine

A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir 2012

Oregon $24.95 (229781) 13.5% alcohol

Red cherry/berry fruit mingles with beet root and spice on the involved nose. On the palate it’s tang laden with sour cherry, cranberry and mixed spice leading the parade. There’s riper raspberry and black plum on the finish as it comes together in a mouth-watering refreshing aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Columbia Valley, Washington State $17.95 (240093) 13.5% alcohol

This is fruit forward, fully textured, complex and structured—can’t get enough of Washington State red wine in general, and in particular from Columbia Crest. Savory herbs, sharp spice and mixed, dark field berry fruit aromas set the table for a feast of flavour. Rich, dense blackcurrant, kirsch liqueur and mulberry jam coat the palate, infusing the lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Luigi Bosca de Sangre 2011
Mendoza $24.95 (261933) 14.1% alcohol
This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (principally), Merlot and Syrah was aged 14 months in French and American oak. It teases the nose with elusive notes of smoke, toasted nut and herbs overlaid on dense dark fruit. Dry, full bodied, it’s just brimming with tasty dark fruit, smoky toast and chocolate melding with hints of spice and pepper. Displaying supple structure and framing juicy focused fruit, it’s well-crafted, balanced wine that’s made for grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Punta de Flechas Malbec 2012
Mendoza $15.95 (399402) 14.0% alcohol
Deep purple, this approachable red brings aromas and flavours of blackberry to the fore while adding a dash of spice and vanilla. Dry, full bodied, it’s boldly fruity and framed by perceptible tannins that offer fresh texture. The finish is dry and tasty—you’ll enjoy this with meat-lover’s pizza or burgers. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

Santa Alicia ‘Gran Reserva de los Andes ‘Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Maipo Valley $18.95 (60244) 14.0% alcohol
The deep purple hue of this wine foreshadows the depth of fruit aromas and flavours; on the nose there are blueberry and blackberry jam, mint, smoke and spice aromas. The palate offers concentrated plush black fruit complemented by supple tannins, toasty oak, and remarkably good freshness. Big, dry and full bodied, this is a good choice for roast beef. (Susan Desjardin)

Australia: Red Wine

Barossa Valley Estate ‘Ebenezer’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Barossa Valley $39.95 (39537) 14.5% alcohol
There’s depth and complexity to this inky Cab, the nose proffering rich aromas of ripe dark fruit intertwined with notes of cedar and earth, dried herbs and smoke. Dry, big and powerful, the velvety texture is framed by firm structure with abundant, intense fruit flavours—cassis, plum and blackberry—balanced by defined acidity. Well-integrated oak offers notes of spice and dark chocolate on a long, concentrated finish. This was masterfully crafted—a candidate for further cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

Dandelion Vineyards ‘Lionheart of the Barossa’ Shiraz 2012 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (167189) 14.5% alcohol 

Aromas of floral notes, cedar and dark berry fruit give notice of a flavourful wash of chocolate-dipped cherries and dark currants adorned by racy tang and wisps of earthy notes. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and deft balance throughout. The finish showcases tang-laden cherry/berry fruit embroidered with dark chocolate and spice. (Vic Harradine) 

De Bortoli ‘Gulf Station’ Pinot Noir 2013
Yarra Valley $19.95 (15511) 13.5% alcohol
Aged ten months in oak, this is a beautifully balanced Pinot Noir, bursting with lifted aromas of ripe cherries and berries, floral notes and sweet spice. Dry, medium bodied, it’s deliciously silky, orchestrating supple tannin, a vibrant backbone of fresh acidity, juicy red fruit and sweet spice into a flavourful value-laden wine. Beautifully constructed and finishing dry and fruity, it’s a match for a range of foods including grilled salmon, roast chicken or duck. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Oyster Bay Merlot 2013

Hawke’s Bay, North Island $18.95 (692343) 12.5% alcohol

Campfire smoke, savory notes and sharp spice aromas introduce a racy river of passion fruit and pomegranate garnished with strawberry and cinnamon. Medium weight and textured, it finishes in a lip-smacking blaze with racy acidity galore. There’s noticeable tannin on the finish that’s easily ameliorated with a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

Lammershoek Roulette Blanc 2011
WO Swartland $21.95 (225458) 12.5% alcohol
This unique blend of four white varieties—37% Chardonnay, 28% Chenin Blanc, 19% Clairette Blanche, 16% Viognier—displays beguiling aromas of honey, yellow plum and peach, wet earth and mineral. Dry, medium bodied, it’s smooth, round and well balanced. Concentrated citrus, pit fruit and tropical fruit flavours meld on the palate with a subtle earthy quality whispering in the background. This refined unique blend is a great match with seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Jean Geiler ‘Réserve Particulière’ Riesling 2013
AOC Alsace $14.95 (408237) 11.5% alcohol
Here’s a great value showcasing lovely lifted aromas—white flowers, orchard fruit, peach and citrus—introducing a satiny texture of ripe fruit. Dry, medium bodied, the vibrant, juicy acidity whisks the wine into high gear bringing out notes of crisp green apple and zesty citrus. Lip smacking and refreshing, it pairs well with roast pork tenderloin or roast chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Maison Chanzy ‘Bourgogne’ Pinot Noir 2013
AOC Bourgogne $22.95 (408153) 12.0% alcohol
Here’s a classic Pinot, showcasing red cherry/berry fruit, earth and a whiff of light toast on the nose. Dry, light-medium bodied, the earthy character manifests in a mineral quality mingling with tangy red berry and cherry. The vibrant acidity delivers a clean fresh finish. Serve with coq au vin. (Susan Desjardins

Gérard Bertrand Terroir Fitou 2011
AOC Fitou $17.95 (403683) 14.5% alcohol
This blend of Carignan/Grenache tickles the nose with appealing aromas—black berry and cherry, earth, dried herbs and spice. Dry and full bodied, the earthy quality is sustained on the palate. Lavish fruit framed with supple tannin and lifted by clean acidity is garnished with notes of spice and chocolate through the dry finish. Enjoy with a hearty stew. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Pieve di Spaltenna Chianti Classico 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico $16.95 (395137) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s great value in a dry, medium bodied Chianti Classico. Notes of earth, vanilla and spice weave through the appealing cherry/berry aromas. A clean, well-defined structure underpins fresh red fruit flavours and an attractive earthy quality. Pick up a few bottles to serve with your favorite pasta or marinated grilled vegetables served with buffalo mozzarella and fresh herbs. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: Red Wine

Quinto do Portal Frontaria 2009
DOC Douro $13.95 (324533) 13.5% alcohol
You can rely on Portuguese wines, such as this blend of famous Port grapes—Tinto Roriz, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional—for excellent value. Offering appealing aromas of ripe dark fruit, spice and vanilla, this dry, medium-full bodied red is smooth and round in texture. Generous ripe fruit is nicely balanced by ripe tannin and fine acidity while French oak aging manifests in attractive hints of cinnamon toast, vanilla and a touch of pepper. Tasty and fruity through the finish, this is a well-made, crowd-pleasing wine; stock up. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

Monasterio de las Viñas Gran Reserva 2005 

DO Cariñena $16.95 (82024) 13.0% alcohol 

Principally Garnacha, blended with Tempranillo and Cariñena, a.k.a. Carignan, this evolved, balanced wine was aged two years in oak and held three years in bottle prior to release. It’s opaque, with spicy fruit aromas, notes of vanilla and a whiff of leather. There’s great depth of ripe fruit flavour, notions of sweet baking spice and a remarkably fresh texture to this dry, full-bodied red. It retains good structure, flavour and depth of fruit flavour through the long dry finish. Enjoy with paella. (Susan Desjardins) 

New in Ontario Wineries

Order the following five wines – along with the six wines reviewed in the previous newsletter of March 18, 2015 by the case of 12 with delivery in Ontario to your home, office or restaurant from Rockway Vineyards. 

White Wine

  
Rockway Vineyards Gewürztraminer 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $15.95 11.5% alcohol
Beguiling aromas of sweet spice, tropical fruit, rose and lychee drift from the glass. This is a brilliantly crafted wine that offers a refined presentation of the classic flavour of the grape in a frame of well-defined acidity—it’s off-dry, lush and satin-like in texture. This bathes the palate in wonderfully ripe, silky fruit flavours and a spicy hint of fresh ginger lingering on the lengthy finish. It’s a great match for lightly spiced dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 150-183’ Riesling 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 10.0% alcohol
Straw-hued, this is a powerhouse of lively, fresh aromas—white flowers and mineral, lime and citrus fruit, luscious, juicy white peach and pear. There’s depth on the palate, freshness and silk to the texture and deft balance of vibrant, clean acidity, wet stone, and tasty, lip-smacking fruit—lime and grapefruit, crunchy green apple and pear. There’s a pleasant touch of residual sweetness on the lengthy, lively finish. Riesling lovers will stock up. (Susan Desjardins)

Red Wine

  
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 11-140’ Cabernet Franc 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $24.95 13.8% alcohol
A touch shy on the nose, subtle light floral notes merge with red and black berry, cocoa and classic pencil shaving aromas. Dry, medium-full bodied, it showcases a beautiful velvety texture, supple yet powerful tannin paired with fresh acidity framing tasty raspberry and black berry fruit. Notes of cocoa, spice and an earthy quality add complexity through the dry, savoury finish. Serve with herbed leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Rockway Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Meritage 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 13.8% alcohol
A blend of the Cabernets and Merlot, the nose is rich with dark chocolate and dark fruit aromas, cedar, dried herbs and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, round and rich on the palate, the spice shines through, notes of pepper and coffee bean garnishing savoury cassis and dried cherry flavours. Structured yet smooth, an engaging red blend that finishes dry and flavourful—a great match for rare roast beef. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block Blend’ Merlot 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $21.95 13.7% alcohol
Spice tantalizes the nose mingling with aromas of black cherry and plum, floral notes, mineral and a hint of smoke. This is dry and medium-full bodied offering rousing spiciness, subtle notes of underbrush and a replay of minerality. Firm tannins combine with a fresh texture and juicy ripe cherry/berry flavour while notes of cocoa and a touch of warmth linger on the dry, spiced finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan