Winecurrent
March 18, 2015 Newsletter

The California Wine Fair dates are always worth recording—it visits eight centres across Canada from coast to coast.

Expect over 100 wineries represented and well more than 400 wines to taste in one gala event. It’s best to use the spit containers provided while sampling, and to arrange for public transportation.

Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year that one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets now @ www.calwine.ca and have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).

There are NO tickets sold at the door! 

The California Wine Fair Tour moves across Canada on the following dates:

  • Tuesday, April 7th: Québec City, Espace Dalhousie
  • Wednesday, April 8th: Montreal, Québec, Le Centre Sheraton
  • Friday, April 10th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa ( $75. per person from 7 to 9:30 pm)
  • Monday, April 13th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
  • Wednesday, April 15th: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Halifax Convention Centre
  • Wednesday, April 22nd: Edmonton, Alberta, Shaw Conference Centre
  • Friday, April 24th: Calgary, Alberta, BMO Centre, Calgary Stampede, Palomino Room
  • Monday, April 27th: Vancouver, British Columbia, Vancouver Convention Centre

Newsletter highlights include:

  • Exceptional value wine Exceptional Value!  – only 3 of 46 wines reviewed met the strict quality-price guidelines, one priced at $13.95 and two at $16.95; all are identified by the Exceptional Value!  icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • 5-star Wine – no wine rang the 5-star bell.
  • Susan Selects – a feel-good wine with great taste and a worthy humanitarian cause - Rockway Vineyards ‘Fergie Jenkins Series’ Riesling 2013 earning 4 stars at $25.95 found after the Main Release under New in Ontario Wineries.
  • Vic Picks – Domaine J. Laurens ‘le Moulin’ Blanquette de Limoux Brut Non-vintage earning 4 stars at $18.95 found under Sparkling Wine early in the Main Release.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Feature: California Wine Icons

**** drink or cellar
Dominus Napanook 2011
Napa Valley $76.95 (212357) 14.5% alcohol
Principally Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this intensely purple beauty offers dense savoury aromas of dried herbs and cedar, cassis and spice. Medium-full bodied, the flavours of cassis, cherry and cocoa are framed by perceptible tannin and clean, fresh texture. The savoury herb notes replay through the dry, well-balanced finish. This second wine of the estate offers good value for the cellar or to enjoy decanted this Easter with prime rib. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Frog’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Rutherford, Napa Valley $68.95 (932400) 13.4% alcohol
Produced from dry-farmed fruit, this organic Cab is inky black displaying intense aromas—cassis and blueberries, mint, spice and a whiff of cedar and toast. Full bodied and well defined, there’s balance and harmony throughout. Ripe tannins and subtle acidity create a refined frame for savoury dark fruit, notes of coffee bean and tapenade mingling with nuanced herbal notes. Dry, long and savoury on the finish, you’ll enjoy this alongside slow-roasted leg of lamb rubbed with garlic and rosemary. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Ridge Three Valleys 2012
Sonoma County $35.95 (652875) 14.2% alcohol
Principally Zinfandel, this blend of terroirs and grape varieties showcases great depth and intensity of aromas and flavours. Opulent fruit—red berry and black cherry—mingle with sweet notes of spice and vanilla with a dash of cracked black pepper. Dry, substantial and bold, the fine acidity, polished tannins and plush texture make for a hedonist’s dream. It finishes lengthy and warm, making it a great match for barbequed ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rodney Strong ‘Brothers Ridge’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $99.95 (405209) 15.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this wine showcases cassis and plum with earthy notes of mushroom and cedar. Dry, full bodied with a firm frame and plush mouth feel, there’s complexity and depth on the palate, the dark fruits lifted by spice and a touch of mint, the earthy note subtly replayed, the oak expressed through soft notes of coffee. It’s masterfully crafted with balance and poise, flowing warmly across the palate and powering through the long finish. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Shafer Merlot 2012
Napa Valley $79.95 (346262) 15.1% alcohol
Inky and dense, this subtle, finely crafted Merlot displays aromas and flavours of black cherry, plum, spice and herbs, with a touch of chocolate-coated cherry. It’s dry and medium-full bodied with perceptible tannin and subtle acidity offering a well-defined frame for the plush fruit. Notes of dark toast and a rush of warm spice and peppery notes linger on the full-flavoured finish. Serve with braised short ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

Feature: Southwest France Secrets

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Pineraie ‘l’Authentique’ Cahors 2011
AOC Cahors $39.95 (408294) 14.7% alcohol
Inky purple, this potent old-vine Malbec aged 18 months in mostly new oak and showcases compelling aromas of earth and cedar, blackberry, plum and a touch of vanilla. Full bodied, the perceptible tannin frames big brooding flavours of dark fruit with the oak adding notes of toast, spiced vanilla and cedar through the long, dry flavourful finish. Serve with cassoulet. (Susan Desjardins)

**** cellar
Château Vincens ‘Origine’ Cahors 2011
AOC Cahors $17.95 (343400) 14.5% alcohol
Inky and concentrated, this red is very expressive, displaying rich notes of black fruits, dark chocolate and vanilla. Dry, full bodied, the chalky tannins make their presence felt, fine acidity underlying the intensely flavourful fruit. Loads of spice, toast and pepper garnish the fruit and linger on the finish. Give this brawny wine a couple of year to knit together, or decant to serve with a hearty meat dish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Château Bellevue la Forêt 2011
AOC Fronton $13.95 (354134) 14.5% alcohol
Produced from Negrette blended with the Cabernets and Syrah, there’s an earthy note—reminiscent of freshly pulled beets—drifting over aromas of berry and plum, licorice and spice. The dry, concentrated dark fruit flavours wash across the palate tinged with a replay of licorice and spice with an underlying earthy note. Full bodied and firm, it’s clean in texture and offers a long-lasting, fruit-filled aftertaste. Serve with duck confit. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Fortified: Dessert Wine

**** drink now
Kourtaki Muscat Samos

AOC Samos, Greece $14.95 (938407) 15.0% alcohol

And now for something completely different, a ‘Vin Doux Naturel’—it’s a bottle you might not give a second glance… pity. This offers good value, a fabulous welcoming wine—over the rocks with a splash of tonic or soda—and can be served as dessert. Sweet flavours of dried apricot, honeyed apple and pear coat the palate and gorgeous finish. Great at summer gatherings. (Vic Harradine)  

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Cathedral Cellars 'Methode Cap Classique' Brut

WO Western Cape, South Africa $16.95 (296426 ) 11.5% alcohol

Produced from a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this refined sparkling wine spent 24 months on the lees and offers a clean, crisp profile and fine, persistent mousse. Dry, light-medium bodied, it's defined by notes of almond biscuit, green apple, citrus and mineral. There's a tangy note of lemon zest on the extended, refreshingly dry finish. This is a great choice to celebrate with friends or enjoy with a light meal. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Domaine J. Laurens ‘le Moulin’ Blanquette de Limoux Brut Non-vintage

AOC Blanquette de Limoux, France $18.95 (180323) $16.95 12.0% alcohol

This area is noted as the first in France to make sparkling wine and is vinified using at least 90% of the local Mauzac grape. This sparkling wine dishes up a nose of yeasty notes, citrus and peach before unleashing a profusion of glorious bubbles riding a wave of flavour—succulent white peach, racy lemon yoghurt and zesty pineapple. The crisp, refreshing aftertaste also makes its mark. This pours well as an aperitif or alongside roast fowl or seafood; it has the oomph and charm to handle both. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Fielding Estate Riesling 2014
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.95 (251439) 10.5% alcohol
Lifted floral notes mingle with orchard fruit, hints of lime and tangerine along with a whiff of wet stone. Off-dry and mid-weight, this citrusy Riesling offers up a lovely mineral character and clean, juicy acidity that present a fine counterpoint to the ripe, sweet fruit. There’s great balance and freshness throughout. Serve on its own or with soft cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Vineland Estates ‘Elevation St. Urban Vineyard’ Riesling 2012
VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (38117) 9.0% alcohol
Produced from a winery with one of the earliest-planted Riesling vineyards in Ontario, this is benchmark Niagara Riesling, offering subtle aromas of citrus, petrol and mineral. Off-dry and mid-weight, flavours of Niagara stone fruit, lemon-lime and mineral interweave creating a heavenly taste experience. The wine showcases a fine silky texture with the fresh acidity a perfect foil for the ripe luscious fruit. It offers wonderful harmony, deft balance and outstanding value. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Queylus ‘Tradition’ Pinot Noir 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (392738) 13.0% alcohol
This refined cool-climate Pinot Noir is subtle on the nose, offering hints of earth, red cherry and berry. Dry, medium bodied, the tasty red fruit—strawberry, currant and pomegranate—is framed by restrained tannin and clean acidity and embellished with subtle notes of spice and vanilla. Silky smooth with a lingering aftertaste, it’ll pair well with grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Pondview ‘Reserve’ Cabernet/Merlot 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (307561) 13.8% alcohol
Here’s an approachable blend of the Cabernets and Merlot with captivating aromas of ripe dark fruit, licorice, cedar and vanilla. Dry, medium bodied, the savoury black cherry and plum notes are underpinned with firm structure and lively acidity. Notes of coffee bean and spice dance across the palate adorning the substantial, savory finish. Enjoy with grilled meats and vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Napa Valley $39.95 (707224) 13.9% alcohol
Quite subtle on the nose, this offers aromas of delicate floral notes, sweet citrus and tropical fruit, hints of fresh snap peas and herbs. Dry, medium bodied, it’s tangy, juicy and silky smooth, like a flavourful ribbon of silk through the finish. A seam of acidity and subtle minerality offer a fine frame for the tasty citrus and passion fruit while hints of gooseberry and light toast add complexity. Refined and well balanced, you’ll enjoy with grilled halibut and lemon caper garnish. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kistler ‘McCrea Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2012
Sonoma Mountain $103.95 (353706) 14.1% alcohol
A Chardonnay lover’s dream come true, this elegant gem boasts great complexity in aromas and flavours. Toasted hazelnut, floral and tropical notes mingle with the freshness of orchard fruit and citrus. Dry, full and rich, with a creamy texture, fine acidity and a mineral nuance, it delivers a nuanced bouquet through the extended, warm finish. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Liberty School Syrah 2012
Central Coast $18.95 (942383) 13.5% alcohol
Dry, and fruit forward, this medium-full bodied wine offers appealing aromas and flavours of blackberry jam and sweet spice. Smooth and tasty, approachable and balanced, with tangy notes of pepper tingling on the palate, it’s a great match for grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chakana ‘Estate Selection’ Red Blend 2012
Mendoza $26.95 (322602) 14.5% alcohol
This inky-purple blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz offers great complexity of aromas and focused fruit flavours. The scents of lavender, exotic spice, menthol, vanilla and classic black berry leap from the glass. Dry, full bodied, it’s rich and plush, the black fruits wrapped around a core of firm yet ripe tannin. There’s freshness to the texture, lively spice, peppery warmth and hints of chocolate through the long, dry finish. Serve with lamb and fresh mint sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Zuccardi ‘Serie A’ Malbec 2012
Uco Valley $16.95 (167619) 14.0% alcohol
Straightforward and pure in the concentration of ripe dark fruit aromas and flavours, this dry, medium-full bodied red offers intensity and focus on the palate. Black berries and plum are garnished with notes of cinnamon toast and dried herbs. Approachable, well balanced and flavourful, it’s begging to be poured at your next barbeque. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Bisquertt ‘La Joya Gran Reserva’ Syrah 2012
Colchagua Valley $16.95 (325407) 14.5% alcohol
This exceptional-value Syrah offers good complexity, a well-defined structure and great depth of fruit. You’ll enjoy lifted aromas of spice and pepper, dark berries and kirsch with just a whiff of dried herbs on the nose. It’s dry, full bodied, plush and warm, loaded with powerful fruit flavours, notes of chocolate and toast and a warm, fruity aftertaste. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mountadam The Red 2009
High Eden $34.95 (931105) 14.5% alcohol
Aged 24 months in French oak, this Cabernet-dominated Bordeaux-style blend offers complex aromas including berry, cherry, black plum, earth and herbs. Dry, full bodied, it’s plush and velvety, the firm tannins a backdrop for full-bore concentrated fruit graced with liberal sprinkles of baking spice and pepper. Long, warm and flavourful through the finish, it’s a match for Osso buco. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Sister’s Run ‘Bethlehem Block’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $16.95 (360636) 14.5% alcohol 

The lifted nose abounds with dried currant, oaky bits and mixed spice aromas. There’s a concentrated, fruit-laden wash of juicy, black, Bing cherry, bramble berry jam, cassis and savory herbs on the palate. It’s generously textured, mid-full bodied and nicely structured with a balanced, lengthy aftertaste replaying fruit from the palate with wisps of fennel. (Vic Harradine)  

**** drink or cellar
Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Nagambie Lakes $22.95 (138818) 13.5% alcohol
Tahbilk is a member of the exclusive (only 12 family-owned wineries) Australia’s First Families of Wine.  Offering lifted aromas of berry, mint and cedar, this dry, medium-full bodied Cab combines ripe tannin and a fresh texture as the framework for tasty red and black berry flavours. The well-integrated oak manifests in subtle notes of spice that carry through the lengthy dry finish. This is a food-friendly red that’ll pair with juicy, rare steak. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Yalumba ‘The Guardian’ Shiraz/Viognier 2010
Eden Valley $21.95 (396499) 14.5% alcohol
Look no further for a friendly, plush wine with great concentration and purity of fruit flavours. Look for aromas of cherry/berry, spicy old rose and vanilla on the nose,. Dry, medium-full bodied, the intense berry fruit is balanced by fresh clean texture and firm ripe tannin. Tasty, spicy and smooth, you’ll enjoy this with grilled meats. Yalumba is a member of the exclusive Australia’s First Families of Wine.  (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Sileni Cellar ‘Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough $18.95 (662882) 12.0% alcohol
Here’s the yin and yang of herbal/vegetable aromas married to juicy citrus, passion fruit and gooseberry. This is dry, medium bodied and zesty in texture with pithy notes of grapefruit zest and fresh herbs, gooseberry and passion fruit replaying on the palate. It’s a vibrant, captivating wine with a long-lasting, palate-cleansing finish. Serve with pan-seared cod and lemon and herb garnish. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Trimbach Riesling 2012
AOC Alsace $21.95 (734517) 12.5% alcohol
Wonderfully aromatic and pure, aromas of stone fruit, citrus and mineral dominate. Dry, medium bodied, the fine mineral character is matched to zesty citrus and green apple flavours garnished with crisp acidity offering a lengthy, lip-smacking finish. Simply delicious—sip and savour. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink now
Wolfberger ‘Signature’ Pinot Gris 2013
AOC Alsace $18.95 (398172) 12.5% alcohol
Off dry and medium bodied, this flavourful Pinot Gris offers aromas and flavours of pear, white peach, melon and citrus, with a delicate whiff of toasted nut. Deftly balancing keen acidity, subtle minerality and a creamy texture, it’s very vivacious and refreshing. Enjoy on its own or with a chicken Caesar salad. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2013
AOC Côtes du Rhône $18.95 (290296) 13.5% alcohol
Consistently and reliably tasty, this versatile blend (principally Viognier) is wonderfully aromatic—notions of white flowers, scents of peach, citrus and tropical notes drift from the glass. Dry, medium bodied, it’s smooth and ripe with notes of spice and a replay of luscious stone fruit bathing the palate. Well balanced with a pleasing touch of bitterness on the finish, this is a great value. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: White Wine

**** drink now
Nals Margreid Pinot Grigio 2013
DOC Südtirol $16.95 (290924) 13.5% alcohol
Pale gold, this old-vines wine offers the fresh scent of white flowers and appealing aromas and flavours of melon, apricot and pear. Dry, medium bodied, there’s depth to the fruit flavour and a fine backbone of clean, citrus acidity. This is a great expression of the grape to chill and sip or serve with roast pork tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 cellar
Brezza Barolo 2010
DOCG Barolo $46.95 (711788) 14.0% alcohol
Refined yet firm in structure, this well-crafted Barolo, produced from the fruit of three vineyards, offers subtle aromas—floral, berry, earth and spice. Dry, medium bodied, it’s silky and quite fresh in texture. Ripe red berry fruit tantalizes the palate with a touch of spice adding warmth. The lasting finish is clean and vibrant. Cellar for further evolution or decant and serve with mushroom risotto and a drop of truffle oil. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Antinori ‘Pian Delle Vigne’ Brunello Di Montalcino 2009

DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $59.95 (651141) 14.0% alcohol

A bouquet of cedar, floral and berry fruit aromas showcase a full-bodied creamy-smooth gem with balance, structure and charm. A fresh and lively stream of sour cherry and red currant streaks over the palate garnished with pipe tobacco, earthiness and tarry notes. It’s good to go now and on to 2020 with oodles of ripe fruit, mostly dark juicy cherry, dominating the back palate and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Villa Cerna ‘Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico $28.95 (349407) 14.0% alcohol
Vinified for cellaring, this is firmly structured Chianti where the tannins make their presence felt at the first sip. Red cherry and berry aromas mingle with notes of toast and coffee, while the palate replays the focused red fruit and toast. There’s an earthy quality to the wine that persists through the finish. Cellar or serve decanted with rare beef. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Remo Farina Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2011
DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella $36.95 (995910) 15.0% alcohol
Relax, kick back and take a sip of this flavourful, consistently well-crafted classic. It’s completely enticing with aromas of smoke, sweet spice, blackberry and chocolate-coated raisins and cherries. Dry, full bodied, richly textured, it’s a harmonious marriage of polished tannin, refined acidity with concentrated dried fruit and decadent chocolate flavours. The finish is lengthy, luxurious and warm. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Via Latina Alvarinho 2013
DOC Vinho Verde $17.95 (398644) 12.5% alcohol
There’s a delicacy to this, its lovely floral notes intertwine with aromas of yellow plum, pear and apple. Dry, light-medium bodied, it’s zesty, fresh and clean on the palate and through the finish, replaying orchard fruit with a twist of lemon. Enjoy with seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Burmester Reserva 2011
DOC Douro $19.95 (266957) 14.5% alcohol
There are loads of berry fruit here garnished with aromas of spice, vanilla and smoky toast. Dry, full bodied, there’s a rush of ripe, tasty fruit across the palate with spice and chocolate-coated coffee bean adding dash. Ripe tannin, a fresh texture and pleasant warmth on the finish make for a well-balanced and flavourful red. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Tarima Hill Monastrell 2011
DO Alicante $19.95 (310169) 15.0% alcohol
Brimming with aromas of ripe black fruit, this nicely balanced wine also offers lifted floral aromas, an elusive earthiness and a touch of sweet exotic spice. Dry, full bodied, produced from the hand-harvested fruit of old vines, the fruit flavours are intense and concentrated, braced by a well-defined firm structure and a fresh texture. Spice and earth replay, joined by a notion of tapenade that adds to the allure and complexity of the wine. A good value to serve with braised beef. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages

• Torres Gran Coronas is a Vintages Essentials product, always available at select LCBO stores.

**** drink or cellar
Torres Gran Coronas 2010
DO Penedès, Spain $19.95 (36483) 14.0% alcohol
Produced from fruit harvested on the family’s home estate, Mas la Plana, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo offers lifted, complex aromas of leather, underbrush, ripe red and black fruits and spiced vanilla. Dry and full bodied, the flavourful ripe fruit bathes the palate caressed by delicious notes of vanilla and sweet exotic spice. Firm in structure yet generous, tasty and savoury, it’s warm on the finish. This deftly balanced wine will pair with all manner of grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO

***1/2 drink now
Coronas Tempranillo 2012
DO Catalunya, Spain $ 13.95 (29728) 13.5% alcohol
Sweet spice, herbs and a whiff of chocolate mingle with ripe flavours of berries and cherries. It’s dry, medium bodied, round and ripe, approachable and crafted to please with all components in harmony. The sun-ripened fruit marries well-integrated oak delivering a gorgeous touch of spice. This is great value and a real crowd-pleaser—enjoy at barbecues. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Cusumano Nero d’Avola 2013
IGT Terre Siciliane, Italy $11.95 (143164) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of ripe dark fruit leap to the fore complemented by sweet spice and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, there’s firmness to this unoaked red. A pleasant bite reminiscent of chocolate-coated espresso beans offset the rich ripeness of the fruit on the palate. This is an easy popular choice paired with burgers or meat-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

Order by the case for daily home, office or restaurant delivery from Rockway Vineyards.

Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 12-140’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $22.95 13.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this wine beckons with a totally alluring whiff of chocolate, ripe berries and sweet spice, grilled almonds and dried herb aromas. Dry, medium-full bodied, firmly structured with perceptible tannins and a lively fresh texture, there are loads of raspberry and black berry fruit on the palate, notes of pepper, coffee and that elusive hint of chocolate lingering on a savoury, fresh finish. It’s a great candidate for cellaring or paired with rare roast beef. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rockway Vineyards ‘Wild Ferment’ Red 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $29.95 13.5% alcohol
Captivating aromas lift from the glass—tobacco, pepper, clove, concentrated berry and plum. This is an even-split blend of Syrah, Merlot and the Cabernets. It offers an elegant balance of firm tannin, fresh acidity and intense flavour—berries, black cherry and plum. There’s minerality, toasty notes of oak and a touch of bitter chocolate on the palate. Complex, dry and medium-full bodied, it’s full of character—a wine to savour as it evolves in the glass, on the palate and in the cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 12-140’ Syrah 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $27.95 13.5% alcohol
An expressive wine, it showcases appealing aromas of red berry, capsicum, grilled herbs and smoky toast. Dry, medium bodied, there’s clean structure while ripe tannin and fresh acidity complement the tasty ripe berry and cherry flavours. Well-integrated oak brings a note of spice, the peppery notes adding lift to the mouth-watering flavourful finish. It shows great balance and presence; enjoy this classic Syrah with lamb ragout. (Susan Desjardins)

White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rockway Vineyards ‘Wild Ferment’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $22.95 13.0% alcohol
Toasted hazelnut mingles with sweet baked apple, ripe pear and subtle spice on the nose. Brilliant yellow gold, dry and medium-full bodied, the wine is like satin on the palate, expressing spicy warmth and wrapping a ribbon of tangy citrus around rich flavours of ripe orchard fruit. There’s ripe fruit, a well-defined backbone of acidity and subtly integrated oak. Winemaker David Stasiuk brought it all together creating an outstanding, elegant, balanced wine. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Rockway Vineyards ‘Block Blend’ Riesling 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $13.95 (459303) 10.5% alcohol
Citrus and mineral aromas spring to the fore with touches of tantalizing orchard fruit. There’s a touch of spritz to this just off-dry, light-mid weight Riesling. The mineral character asserts itself with zesty notes of grapefruit flowing across the palate, married to a well-defined backbone of citrus acidity. Well crafted, balanced and tasty, this’ll pair well with soft cheese, roast pork or chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

• A portion of the proceeds from the following wine go to the Fergie Jenkins Foundation. Ferguson ‘Fergie’ Jenkins was born and grew up in Chatham, Ontario. A right-handed pitcher, he’s a former Cy Young Award winner and the first Canadian inducted into the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, NY. Fergie is also a Member of the Order of Canada. His mother is descended from American slaves who escaped to Canada via the ‘underground railroad’.

**** drink now
Rockway Vineyards ‘Fergie Jenkins Series’ Riesling 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $15.95 10.0% alcohol
Stone and orchard fruit, citrus notes and mineral are tantalizing elements in the aromas profile. Racy vibrant acidity—tangy lemon/lime and grapefruit zest—pace the sweet ripe fruit flavours—white peach and apricot—while the minerality brings further structure. Zesty, almost spritzy, this lip-smacking wine extends the finish replaying wisps of residual sugar. This is a great match for seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan