January 21, 2015 Newsletter

Julie Stock is an accomplished, respected, colleague and wine writer/reviewer whose reviews appear in this publication of winecurrent. We’re pleased and proud she consented to contribute with Susan while Vic takes a break in the sunny south. You can read Julie’s bio here and her tasting reviews below.

The California Wine Fair dates are always worth recording—it visits eight centres across Canada from coast to coast. Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year that one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets @ www.calwine.ca and have questions answered now via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).

There are NO tickets sold at the door! 

The California Wine Fair Tour moves across Canada on the following dates:

• Tuesday, April 7th: Québec City, Espace Dalhousie
• Wednesday, April 8th: Montreal, Québec, Le Centre Sheraton
• Friday, April 10th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa
• Monday, April 13th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
• Wednesday, April 15th: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Halifax Convention Centre
• Wednesday, April 22nd: Edmonton, Alberta, Shaw Conference Centre
• Friday, April 24th: Calgary, Alberta, BMO Centre, Calgary Stampede, Palomino Room
• Monday, April 27th: Vancouver, British Columbia, Vancouver Convention Centre

Newsletter highlights include:

• Exceptional value wine   – 6 of 41 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines, ranging in price from $12.95 to $17.95; all are identified by the   icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
• 5-star Wine – no wine rang the 5-star bell.
• Susan Selects – Tawse ‘Sketches’ Cabernet/Merlot 2011 found under Ontario: Red Wine with 4 stars @ $20.95
• Julie’s Jewel – Nugan Estate ‘Alcira Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 found under 
Australia: Red Wine with 4½ stars @ $24.95
• Vic’s Pick – Rosehall Run ‘Hungry Point’ Unoaked Chardonnay 2013 found under Ontario: White Wine with 4 stars @ $19.95

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. Always best to phone first.

Feature: Wine from Spain

Duquesa de Valladolid Verdejo 2013
DO Rueda $13.95 (391649) 13.0% alcohol
This is quite aromatic, floral scents mingle with sweet orchard and tropical fruit plus a tantalizing whiff of lime. It’s a dry wine that’s a touch spritzy with a juicy fresh texture and tasty fruit—lemon-lime, tangerine, passion fruit and a grassy note. The finish is mouthwatering and tangy. Enjoy with seafood or pan-fried white fish. (Susan Desjardins)

Finca Los Alijares Graciano 2009
VT Castilla $17.95 (292522) 14.5% alcohol
There’s immediate allure in the restrained aromas of flowers, fruit, smoke and spice in this inky, dense gem. The chalky, drying tannins underlay toasty oak, fresh mouth-filling blackberry and raspberry flavour. It’s a well-crafted, full-bodied red, fresh in texture with an earthy character finishing dry, long and firm. A good candidate for mid-term cellaring, it’ll pair now with robust roast meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Dominio Dostares ‘Estay’ Prieto Picudo 2011
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León $15.95 (393140) 14.5% alcohol
This was produced from the fruit of +90-year-old Prieto Picudo vines—unique to this region of Spain—that were aged 6 months in French and American oak. This is an inky, velvety wine characterized by intense layered aromas—plush black fruit, leather and notes of dried herbs, sweet spice and vanilla, a whiff of cocoa. Dry, full bodied, peppery and spicy, the firm structure and fresh texture harmonize with tasty ripe fruit and a savory, earthy note. This is great value, finishes with a dry, spicy flourish and pairs well with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Sueño Tempranillo 2011
DO Ribera del Júcar $18.95 (397133) 14.0% alcohol
Produced from old-vine grapes aged in French and Hungarian oak, this intense, inky wine offers great balance and complexity. The first whiff elicits notions of dark berries, juicy ripe plum, dried cherries and sweet herbs. The structure and well-ripened fruit marry harmoniously on the palate creating velvety texture. The finish goes on and on with notes of cocoa, smoke and licorice teasing the palate. Serve with grilled lamb chops. (Susan Desjardins)

Macho Man Monastrell 2012
DO Jumilla $18.95 (392993) 14.0% alcohol
Buy this wine not just for the name—it’s an impressive award winner that’s chock full of ripe dark berry and plum fruit accented by notes of smoke, balsamic, dried herbs and vanilla. Supple, round and rich, it’s dry, medium-full bodied and lengthy through the finish. This was made for paella with chorizo sausage. (Susan Desjardins)

Alidis Tinto ‘6 Meses in Barrica’ 2012
DO Ribera del Duero $17.95 (398487) 14.0% alcohol
Opaque and beet red, this nicely balanced Tempranillo offers rich ripe layered aromas—ripe fruit, spiced rose petals, vanilla and notions of chocolate-coated cherries. It’s dry and medium-full bodied displaying a firm structure, round yet fresh texture and a focused core of fruit, it’s tasty through the finish, where fine notes of cocoa and spice linger. Enjoy with braised chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

Lecco Crianza 2007
DO Ribera del Duero $23.95 (397174) 14.5% alcohol
This Tempranillo delivers powerful aromatics and flavours. Sweet spice along with black plum and cherry are layered on notes of earth and tapenade. The velvety smooth texture wraps around a core of focused black fruits, ripe tannins with fine acidity assuring balance. It’s dry, medium-full bodied. Smoky, toasty spicy notes—it was aged in French and American oak—evolve and linger on the well-paced finish. Serve with a herb-crusted beef tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)

Mini-Feature: Wine from Argentina

Alamos Torrontés 2013 

Salta $14.95 (081539) 13.0% alcohol 

Light on its feet and heavy on the aromatics, this opens with a fruit-salad bowl of aromas—mixed spice, honeyed melon and floral notes. It sweeps over the palate with tang-laden lemon and Key lime mingling with notions of pineapple and fleshier peach and nectarine. The mid-length finish is crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

Finca El Origen ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2011
Tunuyán, Uco Valley, Mendoza $21.95 (65425) 14.5% alcohol
Bright, dark-red in colour, this shimmers in the glass. On the palate you enjoy ripe dark cherries and plums, it’s full bodied and a little earthy. It’s a big wine with noticeable tannins and a delicious long, dark fruit finish. It’s definitely worth the splurge to accompany prime rib or grilled steak. (Julie Stock)

Los Clop ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2009
Maipu, Mendoza $17.95 (186650) 14% alcohol
This Malbec is really out of this world bursting with powerful flavours. Floral aromas introduce flavours of blackberry pie, plums and currants washing over and through the palate. It’s structured and rich as velvet with soft tannins and a long, dark, fruity finish with a little dust at the end. This is pure, Yum. (Julie Stock)

Chakana Maipe ‘Old Vine Reserve’ Bonarda 2012
Mendoza $ 15.95 (361212) 14.5% alcohol
Many winemakers use Bonarda with Malbec to create red blends, but here’s a wonderful example of how it shines on its own. Floral and ripe fruit permeate the aromas. This deep-purple wine was barrel aged for 12 months creating woodsy notes adorning the concentrated dried plum flavour. It’s bone dry, medium to full bodied with grippy tannins. Wonderful on its own, it also pours well with oven-baked ribs. (Julie Stock)

Mini-Feature: Wine from Chile

Miguel Torres ‘Santa Digna Reserva’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Central Valley $14.95 (177444) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a classic Sauvignon Blanc—herbal, grassy aromas mingle with green apple, citrus and passion fruit. Light-medium bodied and dry, there’s more passion fruit, grapefruit and lime on the palate complemented by tasty herbal notes and a defined backbone of clean acidity. The finish is bright, dry and tangy. Serve with white fish or lemon-herbed chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

Falernia ‘Reserva’ Carmenère 2012
Elqui Valley $17.95 (269175) 15.0% alcohol
If you want a bold, robust wine, this purple powerhouse is for you! Dry, full bodied and abounding with rich black fruit, notes of smoked meat, mineral and spice, it’s warm and peppery—great for a cold winter’s night. There’s structure under all that fruit so the balance is there, but this is definitely a fruit-forward red complemented by smoky, toasty, chocolate notes. Serve alongside roast lamb with rosemary and garlic or a robust ratatouille. (Susan Desjardins)

Arboleda ‘Single Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Aconcagua Valley $19.95 (606764) 14.0% alcohol
You can rely on Arboleda for well-crafted, high-value wine. This opaque, purple Cabernet is a good example, offering lifted, layered aromas of dark fruits, herbs, smoke and cedar. Medium-full bodied, it nicely balances fresh texture, firm structure, a subtle earthy character and plush mouth-filling fruit. Attractive notes of cocoa, spice and toast add complexity and panache through the lengthy dry finish. Serve with roast beef and grilled vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

Joseph Cattin Brut Crémant d’Alsace
AOC Alsace $17.95 (281329) 12.0% alcohol
You can’t go wrong with Cattin, this finely wrought Crémant a testament to centuries of winemaking expertise. It’s dry, the mousse fine and creamy, floral and mineral notes complement citrus and crisp, tasty green apple on the palate. It’s a lively, delicate wine with mousse persisting through the long-lasting finish. It’s wonderful; sip away! (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (80234) 9.5% alcohol 

Aromas of green apple, lemon grass, mineral notes and hints of white flowers precede palate-bathing, delicate and deftly balanced flavours of lime cordial, lemon curd and lightly honeyed pineapple. It’s structured, stylish and light on its feet, tripping across the palate with tang and pizzazz. It finishes in a blaze of lip-smacking ambrosia and is not to be missed. (Vic Harradine) 

  
Rosehall Run ‘Hungry Point’ Unoaked Chardonnay 2013 

VQA Prince Edward County $19.95 12.5% alcohol 

Exotic spice, floral notes, apple and pit fruit aromas abound. Bathing the palate with spice-infused Granny Smith apple and ripe pear garnished with Meyer lemon; it’s medium bodied, value-laden and nicely textured. There’s complexity and charm throughout with good purity of fruit and a balanced refreshing finish. A 20-minute, room-temperature aeration/decant provides quite a lift. Pair with gougère, white pizza or chicken Caesar salad. (Vic Harradine) 

Ontario: Red Wine

  
Kacaba Cabernet Franc 2011 

VQA Niagara Escarpment $18.95 (272146) 13.5% alcohol 

Savory herbs, smoky bits and pencil shaving aromas herald a rip-roaring river of black currant and juicy black cherry coating the palate adorned with lip-smacking acidity and a solid tannin underpinning. On the powerful finish there’s oodles of fruit, complexity and good length. It’s very good now after a two-hour aeration decant with promise of much more by opening in a year or two. (Vic Harradine)  

  
Tawse ‘Sketches’ Cabernet/Merlot 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.95 (130252) 13.0% alcohol 

Pick up a few bottles of this well-crafted blend of the Cabernets and Merlot to enjoy with barbeques. A beautiful ruby tone, the wine marries ripe black cherries, berries, cassis, sweet spice and a whiff of milk chocolate with fine-grained tannin and lively acidity. It’s dry yet approachable, mid-weight and skillfully balanced, leaving a hint of well-integrated oak on the persistent, fruit-filled finish. (Susan Desjardins) 

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

  
Calliope ‘Figure Eight’ 2013
VQA Okanagan Valley $17.95 (324582) 14.0% alcohol
The Wyse family, founders of Burrowing Owl, have introduced Calliope as a new label providing quality, accessible wine. This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Syrah offers enticing layered aromas of vanilla, grilled peppers, dark berry, plum and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine delivers a rich core of ripe fruit, tasty notes of pepper, spice and cocoa, all underpinned by perceptible tannins and fine acidity. Approachable, balanced and fruity, it finishes with tasty notes of charry oak. Enjoy with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

First Press Chardonnay 2011

Napa Valley $19.95 (199810) 14.5% alcohol

This lovely California Chardonnay offers up aromas of toffee, toast and tropical fruit before bathing the palate with a persistent wash of butterscotch, crisp green apple and ripe pear. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lovely balanced finish replaying flavours along with wonderful citrus acidity, all balanced and beautiful. (Vic Harradine) 

California: Red Wine

Ravenswood ‘Vintners Blend’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
California $17.95 (606632) 13.5% alcohol
Compelling aromas of berry fruit, cedar, spice and vanilla entice the glass to your lips. No disappointment here, and no ‘wimpy’ wine, from this well-known producer. This is a dry, full bodied and well structured Cab showcasing refined fresh acidity, supple tannins and rich, ripe berry fruit accented by notes of spice and toast. Serve it with rare roast beef. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

Cristobal ‘1492 Barrel Selection’ Merlot 2012
Mendoza $14.95 (663096) 14.5% alcohol
I’d like to own clothing in this deep ruby colour. It’s an easy sipper with violets and vanilla aromas and red fruits mingling with vanilla and tobacco on the palate. It was aged in oak for 12 months which lends to a little toastiness. This is medium bodied and has enough tannins to satisfy the palate with easy fruit flavours and a little spice on the medium finish. It’s a great pizza wine. (Julie Stock)

Luca Malbec 2012
UCH Valley, Mendoza $32.95 (167312) 14% alcohol
Here’s a black, velvety diamond. Floral aromas precede rich black fruit—plum and raspberry—dancing on the palate robed in mint, tobacco and complexity; this is one rich baby. There are soft, but firmly ground tannins and a long, dry, fruit finish with just a pinch of mocha. It’s reminiscent of a Black Forest cake, with a roast beforehand, of course. (Julie Stock)

Australia: Red Wine

Chapel Hill ‘Parson’s Nose’ Shiraz 2012
McLaren Vale $19.95 (339705) 14.5% alcohol
This is a lovely deep purple with aromas of blueberries and forest floor. It’s been aged in French oak which lends vanilla toastiness melding with black cherries, blueberries and a little smoke. It’s a strong bold wine with assertive backbone and firm tannins, something that’s sometimes lacking in Shiraz. I smell a roast leg of lamb with rosemary and garlic. (Julie Stock)

Dark Side of the Moon Shiraz 2012
Clare Valley $25.95 (72652) 14.8% alcohol
The only thing dark about this gem is the luscious deep red colour. There are loads of vibrant fruit flavours on the palate—red and dark ripe berries. It’s mellow, despite the high alcohol, luscious and smooth with a lingering finish of berry and sweet spice. This will cellar for years. It needs good grilled meat to partner, nothing sissy. (Julie Stock)

Kurtz Family ‘Boundary Row’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro 2010
Barossa Valley $29.95 (223263) 15% alcohol
This GSM is dark and inky with aromas of red roses. It’s smooth, velvety and rich on the palate with pomegranate, rich, ripe, red berries and strawberry/raspberry jam. There’s leather and black pepper on the lingering, bone-dry finish. Such a splurge deserves a special partner; try beef tenderloin wrapped in puff pastry. (Julie Stock)

Nugan Estate ‘Alcira Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Coonawarra $24.95 (393686) 14% alcohol
Floral and eucalyptus aromas waft from this lovely ruby-red Cab. On the palate, a mix of black currants and woodsy notes offer a robust experience with this full-bodied beauty. There are definitive tannins, ripe cherry and cocoa combined with notions of mint and pepper on the long finish. It’s a big wine with lots of gusto—hearty beef stew with fresh biscuits would partner perfectly. After dinner, sip this with aged Manchego. (Julie Stock)

New Zealand: White Wine

Middle-Earth Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Nelson, South Island $17.95 (391987) 14% alcohol
Lord of the Rings put New Zealand and ‘Middle-Earth’ on the map—memories of lush green hills and valleys come to mind. New Zealand produces clean-tasting, fresh Sauvignon Blanc. Very pale in colour, it’s aromatic and fresh with aromas of citrus and minerality. You’ll salivate as it opens into a fruity citrus bowl on the palate. It’s light to medium bodied with tantalizing acidity and a lingering crisp finish. This makes it a great wine for anytime of year and won’t be long in your fridge. Pour with fish tacos or creamed salmon on a pastry shell—made for ladies, or gentlemen, who lunch. (Julie Stock)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Coopers Creek ‘Select Vineyards - Gravels and Metals’ 2009
Hawkes Bay, North Island $19.95 (392373) 13.5% alcohol
Ripe dark fruit, layered and juicy, best describes this ruby-red blend. It’s full bodied with tons of black fruit flavours. The tannins possess grippy goodness enhancing the chocolate and cocoa on the finish. It’s definitely looking for rare steak. (Julie Stock)

Spy Valley Pinot Noir 2012
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (734681) 13.5% alcohol
Wine lovers don’t always think of Marlborough when seeking Pinot Noir… pity. This is a must-try for those who enjoy aromas of barnyard. There are plenty of dried and stewed plums mixed with cherry flavours and savory herbs lingering on the palate. Look for lip-smacking acidity, supple tannin and a garland of spice on the finish. This is an ideal candidate for roast duck. (Julie Stock)

France: White Wine

Ormarine ‘Carte Noire’ Picpoul de Pinet 2013
AOP Picpoul de Pinet $12.95 (525287) 12.5% alcohol
This wine is consistently well made and an absolute steal. It’s very aromatic—think white flowers, orchard fruit, lemon-lime and mineral. Dry, light-medium bodied with a hint of spritz, the mineral character shines through, the orchard fruit and zesty citrus singing through the mouthwateringly clean finish—run, don’t walk and load up the wagon! (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château Blaignan 2010
AOC Médoc $23.95 (400606) 13.5% alcohol
Opaque, deep purple, this Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend is designed for the cellar offering great depth and structure. Lovely complex aromas of dried herbs, tomato leaf, cedar, cassis, black cherry and smoky toast waft easily. Deftly balanced and medium-full bodied, the firm structure and lively acidity frame tasty black cherry, plum and berry fruit along with the hints of cocoa and sweet spice that round out this taste treat. The finish is warm, dry and intense. Serve with lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

Château de Monbadon 2010 

AOC Castillon – Côtes de Bordeaux $18.95 (365882) 14.5% alcohol 

The powerful nose opens with licorice, berry fruit and espresso roast. Concentrated flavours of cassis, spice box and dark coffee meld with good acidity, excellent mouth feel and deft balance. There’s purity of fruit and complexity on the fruit-filled lingering aftertaste. Pick up a few, giving a two-hour aeration/decant, drinking now to 2019. Good value. (Vic Harradine) 

Domaine Galaman Fitou 2013
AOP Fitou $16.95 (395467) 14.0% alcohol
This purple-hued blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan offers a lively, invigorating nose of raspberry/ blueberry pie, tomato leaf, mineral, spice and pepper. Dry, medium-full bodied, the juicy texture lifts the lively cherry/berry flavours and accents the notes of pepper, spice and red licorice. This masterfully wrought wine brings together the ideal marriage of supple structure, clean tangy texture and tasty fruit that makes it approachable, balanced and a great wine to sip and to enjoy throughout a hearty meal—excellent value. (Susan Desjardins)

Château Haut-Montplaisir Malbec 2011
AOC Cahors $17.95 (673590) 14.0% alcohol
The opacity of this wine is testament to the reputation of the Vins Noirs (black wines) de Cahors. Lovely floral and dark fruit notes erupt from the glass presaging the explosion of big, robust flavours on the palate. This is a dense, dry, full bodied wine, brawny and bold in structure and raring to be matched to big, juicy, steak with a touch of truffle oil. Aerate/decant for an hour and definitely cellar a bottle or two. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: White Wine

Riondo Castelforte Garganega 2013
IGT Veronese $13.95 (230656) 13.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of white flowers, citrus and vanilla waft from the glass of this unique Italian beauty. It’s silky in texture, medium bodied and richly fruity—tropical and orchard fruit flavours abound tinged with notes of lime and mineral. Partial oak aging adds a note of toasty nut, while the dry finish maintains the pleasing citrus note. Serve with chicken Caesar salad. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Gemma Barolo 2010
DOCG Barolo $29.95 (285502) 14.0% alcohol
Transparent-garnet hued, this is elegant value enticing with delicate aromas of cherry, rose, spice and vanilla. Silky and medium bodied, the floral note comes through on the palate along with soft fruit flavours—red cherry and raspberry—and a hint of earth. The structure is well defined, the tannins supple and the fruit’s carried through the long-lasting, dry finish. Serve this very approachable wine with braised beef or steak tartare. (Susan Desjardins)

Tenuta Rocca ‘Ornati’ Langhe 2009
DOC Langhe $21.95 (309369) 14.5% alcohol
This unique, tasty red blend—Barbera, Nebbiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon—combines floral, mineral and black berry aromas on the nose. It’s elegant, medium bodied and deftly balanced—a well-orchestrated red with velvety texture and firm, refined structure. The ripe fruit bathes the palate; earthy notes and well-integrated oak add complexity. It’s warm and rich through the dry finish. Enjoy now with mushroom arrosto. (Susan Desjardins)

Conte Rossi di Montelera Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2011
DOCG Chianti Colli Fiorentini $17.95 (391532) 13.5% alcohol
This lesser-known appellation creates some classic wines, such as this Sangiovese-Colorino blend. Dry, juicy and medium bodied, the lively red fruit springs to the fore, matched to delicate notes of spice, violet and vanilla. The tannins proclaim their presence, the texture is refreshing, the fruity tangy and bright. This is a great food wine that finishes clean and lively—it’ll pair with all manner of pasta dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Vicchiomaggio ‘Ripa delle Mandorle’ 2013
IGT Toscana $15.95 (677930) 13.0% alcohol
This Sangiovese-Cabernet blend is an approachable, well-balanced red, offering attractive aromas of cherry/berry, spiced rose and dried herbs. Medium-full bodied, dry, round and supple, the winemaker’s mastery is evident in the harmony of well-integrated oak, restrained structure and flavours of well-ripened fruit. It finishes ripe, tasty and clean; this is a great wine to sip before and during a meal of braised vegetables or meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic, Susan and Julie