****1/2cellar
Fielding Estate Winery Cabernet Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35

This is made from estate-grown fruit at the new Fielding winery that will open its doors this summer. From the excellent 2002 growing season in Niagara, it's a 50:50 blend that had 18 months in French oak, and it's just stunning. The aromas are quite lovely: all dark fruit with loads of spicy, mint, and cedar complexity, and flavours and texture live up to the promise. It's full bodied, soft in the mouth, with plush, concentrated, ripe, dark fruit and the same range of complex notes. The tannins are firm, the balance is spot-on, and the finish lingers. When you think of wines of this quality from other world regions, it's a steal at $35. Order direct from the winery using the link at winecurrent.com. (RP)

**** drink now
Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Rosé 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95

An attractive pale salmon-bronze colour outside the common pink zones, this has deceptively intense and complex flavours. I lingered over this one for quite a while, picking up the aromas and flavours of a basket of fresh summer fruit: cherries, strawberries, plums?. The screwcap seal (all Flat Rock wines are under screwcap) will ensure that freshness is preserved. This is a dry rosé that's well balanced and makes an excellent addition to your summer table. Try it with salads featuring duck or ham. Order directly from the winery using the link at winecurrent.com, and get the Flat Rock flat-rate of $9 per delivered order-whether it's a bottle or ten cases. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $23.95

Flat Rock Cellars is an impressive newcomer on the Niagara landscape. With a unique hexagon-shaped building, gravity-fed winemaking and meticulous attention to detail, it's a label to watch. This Pinot Noir has had a total of about 14 months' barrel aging. Look for well balanced, good full fruit (sweet and sour cherry on top) with notes of spice, pepper and earthiness. The tannins are quite big and grippy. It's drinking now (try it with rare lamb) or you can hold it up to five years. To order this, go to winecurrent.com and link to the winery. They have a very low flat rate delivery cost of $9 per order, no matter how small or large. (RP)


**** drink now
Lailey Vineyard Riesling 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.00

Gorgeous mineral and citrus aromatics open the floodgates for the quintessential flavours and sensations (mouth watering acidity, a taste treat of pears and green apples) of well made Niagara Riesling. Sip on the patio with friends or pair with smoked salmon or grilled goat's cheese over any smoked fish. Order, in case lots, direct from the winery via www.laileyvineyard.com (VH)


**** drink or cellar
Legends Estates Winery Chardonnay Reserve 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $27

A classic Chardonnay in the southern Burgundian style. Expect quite elegant aromas of concentrated fruit, warm spice and a hint of vanilla, with a follow-through that replays the fruit. Elegant with a subtle touch of wood (it was barrel-fermented, then aged 10 months in all new barrels), this is a very well-made wine that will pair well with well-flavoured white meat dishes. Order this from the winery, using the link at winecurrent.com. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Legends Estates Winery Cabernet Franc Reserve 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35

A plush-textured Cabernet Franc with a classic varietal nose: spicy red fruit, that pencil shavings thing, and the merest hint of green that lifts the aromas. The fruit is well-focused, the texture is silky, the balance is correct, the tannins are ripe, and the finish is long. In short, a great result from an excellent vintage in the region. Order this from Legends Estates using the link at winecurrent.com. (RP)

**** drink now
Niagara College Teaching Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95

Using grapes grown on the Beamsville Bench and Niagara-on-the-Lake, Niagara College student wine-makers made this under the guidance of Jim Warren, one of Niagara's best-known wine-makers and an instructor at the College. Following last year's spectacular Sauvignon Blanc, this has quite intense fruit (gooseberry/passion fruit dominant) and clean, zesty acidity. With this quality, it's one of the best-value Sauvignon Blancs from the region-and there's impressive competition. (RP)

****cellar
Niagara College Teaching Winery Pinot Noir 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95

2003 was not the easiest of vintages, but this Pinot Noir came through very well. Look for fairly concentrated fruit (sweet and sour cherry to the fore) with spice and hints of oak (it was aged in 75% new barrels). The tannins are big and gripping right now, and this will drink well in two years and for the next six. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peninsula Ridge Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95

Not exactly new, because it's been around for more than a year, but this is a second bottling. I loved it then, I love it now. It's a very big Merlot, chock full of ripe, dark fruit accented with pepper and spice, and a long spicy black fruit finish. Speaking of Niagara's excellent 2002 vintage, winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas says, "Everyone had the fruit, but I wanted to give it more structure, to work with the maturation and tannins." He succeeded. This was delicious with elk, and it will pair well with any rich, red meat dish. And it's excellent value. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Reif Vidal Icewine 2002 (375 ml)
VQA Niagara Peninsula $46.95 (544775)

This stunning wine opens with a lifted nose of orange-peel marmalade and an explosive mélange of ripe nectarine, peach and apricots. The mouthfeel is unctuous without being cloying and impression is sweet without being sickly. The finish is luxurious and long with just the right amount of acidity to hold it all together, beautifully. Try it chilled down with fresh fruit and crème anglais. Order a case via the Reif Winery link on the www.winecurrent.com site. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Ridgepoint Wines Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95

One of a bunch of new labels in Niagara, Ridgepoint is making a range of wines that show great promise. This Merlot is deceptively subdued on the nose. There are hints of plum fruit and spice, but they don't prepare you for the big mouthful of dark fruit and spice/pepper complexity that follows. 20 months in mainly new American oak have given complexity and roundness and the 14% alcohol throws adds another dimension. The tannic grip is still very firm, and you'd be best to leave this another year or two in the bottle. The finish is long and complex, and this will partner up well with flavoursome red meat dishes. (RP)


****1/2 drink or cellar
Stratus Cabernet Franc 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $32

If Niagara ever pares down its grape varieties to the handful that do best in the region, Cabernet Franc will be one of the first choices. This one, from iconic winemaker J.L. Groux, has classic aromas of rich berry fruit, spice, pencil shavings and the merest hint of verdure. The texture is rich and layered, and the flavours are concentrated and complex, with long, ripe tannins. The balance is fine and this is one lovely wine, and it's a reminder of how good a vintage 2001 was. Drink it now and over the next five years. Order from Stratus using the link at winecurrent.com. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Stratus White 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $36

Who knows what the proportions are, but the grapes include Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Both of Stratus's flagship wines are blends, an echo of the Old World where single-variety wines were rare and even less often known by their varietal names. The 2002 White gives off huge floral and fruit aromas that flow through to elegant, layered flavours of fruit (notably peach, pear, and apple). The fruit is solid and pure across the palate, and the wine ends long and clean. A quite remarkable wine in many respects. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Strewn "Terroir" Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (618579)

Made only in the best of years, this red stands up to its vaunted reputation. Black plums, vanilla and leather waft from this garnet-coloured red. The flavours and mouthfeel are a template for well-made wine. They build from an initial attack of ripe dark berry fruit and tannins that are perceptible, but not grippy, into a perfect blend of ripe fruit, cleansing acidity and a well balanced finish that is lengthy and memorable. Drink now and over the next 3 years with well seasoned leg of lamb. Order, by the case, direct from the winery www.strewnwinery.com (VH)