Randall Grahm, the iconic creator of the California Rhone Ranger movement, is a terroir-ist with convictions-strong convictions. In the ultimate green harvest, he pruned his winery to a mere 10% of its former size, selling off mega-brands, 'Big House Red' and 'Cardinal Zin'. Brands that had made his Bonny Doon Vineyards almost as famous as himself, and himself a slave to the boardroom. He's now back to his roots with selective small vineyard plantings, farmed bio-dynamically. The labels are still idiosyncratic, i.e. weird and wonderful, but how about the wine? Articulate and personable Alex Krause, Bonny Doon's Director of Sales, recently visited Ontario and brought the following five wines to taste with winecurrent.


Bonny Doon Vineyard 'Ca' Del Solo' Sangiovese 2005
San Benito County $21.75
It's very expressive and involved on the nose with spice box, cedar, tobacco and mineral aromas. Fruit from a single family vineyard produced this medium-bodied red with almost perfect balance attained through focused warm fruit flavours—red currant, cranberry and Montmorency cherry—and wonderful crisp moderating acidity. It finishes dry, from the ripe and supple tannin, and delicious. Drink now to 2014. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)


Bonny Doon Vineyard 'Ca' Del Solo' Nebbiolo 2005
Monterey County $36.35
The heady and perfumed aromas include rose, lilac and dark berry fruit. You'll find considerable tang that has been perfectly balanced with racy fruit flavours of sour cherry, strawberry and blueberry. This is medium bodied and nicely textured with a lingering fruity finish that layers on hints of tar and black licorice. Drink now to 2015. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)


Bonny Doon Vineyard 'Le Cigare Volant' 2003
California $36.35
This 'Rhone blend' is Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault. Herbaceous aromas infused with tobacco billow off this medium- to full-bodied and fully textured gem. The flavours arrive in layers—cassis and black raspberry, black plum and spice box. The finish lingers, redolent of a classic, aged Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Le cigare volant (flying cigar) is the French term for flying saucer. In 1954, winemakers in that region had a by-law passed preventing flying saucers from flying over or landing in vineyards, on penalty of being impounded.) This has ripe finely grained tannin that provides good structure. Glorious sipped on its own, it's perfectly paired with lamb daube. Drink now to 2016. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)


Bonny Doon Vineyard 'Ca' Del Solo' Albariño 2007
Monterey County $26.50
There are honeyed fruit and spiced Muscat grape-like aromas galore off the nose while the juicy crisp flavours are in the ripe citrus and white peach zones. This is medium bodied and medium textured with seamless integration of a bracing spine of acidity. It finishes with a tingle of spritz and a lip-smacking gusher of citrus verve and tree fruit flavours. Pair with pan-seared scallops or grilled prawns, both under a drizzle of fresh lemon. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)


Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Blanc 'Beeswax Vineyard' 2006
Arroyo Seco $29.00
This is a Rhone blend of 75% Grenache Blanc with the balance Roussane. An attractive light straw colour in the glass, the aromas are delicate with white flowers and mineral notes predominant. The honeyed pear and apricot fruit flavours glide along effortlessly on a supple, almost creamy, texture. Medium weight and beautifully balanced, the lingering warm finish (14.5% alcohol) sports lemon zest and melon flavours. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

Vinedos Terra Noble Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Colchagua Valley $16.35
This is a big wine with deft balance and firm structure. There's a mélange of aromas with spice, smoke, tar and chocolate among them. The layered and concentrated flavours explode on the palate and glide along on a supple texture that includes ripe fine-grained tannin. Look for sweet juicy black raspberry, coffee bean and excellent moderating acidity. The finish is medium in length and perfectly balanced. Lovely sipped on its own, it pairs perfectly with steak and gourmet burgers. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)