Winecurrent writers Louise Boutin and Vic Harradine attended The Vine Agency wine tasting on November 25th, 2019. The tasting was held at the fine dining establishment, Beckta Dining and Wine on Elgin St. in Ottawa and was attended by many fine-dining owners and sommeliers—watch for them when next dining out. These wines were selected from a carefully curated collection of fine wines via the LCBOs Consignment program with many not available at LCBO retail stores. Order and purchase arrangements are handled through Account Manager, Lauren Hayes-Van den Weghe at the following coordinates:
• Order the following wines by the case—some 6 bottles, others 12—by contacting Lauren Hayes-Van den Weghe by email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or by phone 613 240 3667 for restaurant, home or office delivery via The Vine Agency.
• The following eleven wines have been tasted, reviewed and scored by Louise Boutin.
Dessert Wine
89
Villa Papiano ‘Tregenda’ Vendemmia Tardiva Albana 2016
DOCG Romagna Albana $39.95 500ml 11.5% alcohol
Bruised apple, orange marmalade and camomile tea make up the nose of this late harvest nectar, hand-picked after noble rot, aka botrytis cinera has done its magic. This is a sweet and rich elixir aged six months in barriques and 18 months in bottle. Beautiful flavours of candied orange, apricot and honey lifted with a good dose of citrus acidity present an excellent example of passito wines from the Emilia-Romagna region. A treat on its own and also a fine pairing with sea-salt roasted almonds. (Louise Boutin)
Sparkling Wine
90
Mosole Prosecco ‘Millesimato’ Extra dry 2018
DOC Prosecco Treviso $24.95 11.5% alcohol
Ninety-five percent glera and a splash of chardonnay goes into this tank fermented fragrant sparkler. Fresh aromas of peach, melon and pear jelly joined with delicate floral notes introduce a nice wave of fruit cocktail flavours, filling the mouth with a thick froth and a thirst quenching sensation. This is light-bodied, with 14g of residual sugar per litre perfectly balanced with excellent acidity. Serve well chilled and pair with good company at the apéro. (Louise Boutin)
White Wine
90
Prà Soave Classico ‘Monte Grande’ 2017
DOC Soave Classico $48.95 13.0% alcohol
This “cru” Soave is a blend of 70% garganega and 30% trebbiano di Soave grown in Veneto’s volcanic soil. The mineral character of this elegant white wine is noticeable on the nose with slate notes shielding ripe orchard fruit, zesty Meyer lemon and almond aromas. Fermented then matured 10 months in large oak casks, this medium-bodied, crisp white displays flavours of ripe peach, melon, lemon confit and a hint of vanilla, closing with a trail of minerality in the delectable dry finish. It’s a perfect partner to seafood risotto. (Louise Boutin)
91
Scarbolo ‘Il Ramato’ Pinot Grigio 2018
DOC Friuli $24.95 13.5% alcohol
This light-copper shaded 100% pinot grigio from the Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region, is Scarbolo’s introduction to their orange wine program. A quick 24 hours of grapeskin contact is all it takes to transfer pigmentation and fresh aromas of peach, clementine zest and strawberry along with bright mineral notes. Expect a similar profile on the palate with added zesty tang and a saline note persisting in the dry finish and aftertaste. The hybrid character of this medium-light bodied interesting wine, brings excellent food pairing options. Try alongside grilled-trout gourmet burgers with lemon aioli, or shrimp, tomato and feta mini-skewer appetizers. (Louise Boutin)
94
McManis Family Vineyard Viognier 2018
River Junction, California $20.95 13.5% alcohol
If you’re not fond of viognier because of its highly perfumed character, give this a try. It’s a blend of 92% viognier partnering with sauvignon blanc and muscat canelli, aka muscat blanc à petits grains. A delicate nose of apricot, rose water aromas and a hint of roasted nut teases the senses. On the palate, it’s medium-plus weight with an almost oily mouthfeel but no heaviness—courtesy the beautiful zesty acidity. Delicious flavours of apricot and sweet citrus mingle with mild pithy grapefruit flavours, framing the long and decadent finish. This is a first-class wine at a bargain price. Pair with butternut squash ravioli. (Louise Boutin)
Red Wine
90
Stoller Family Estate Pinot Noir 2017
Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley $39.95 13.5% alcohol
A mélange of the different pinot noir clones grown on the family estate helps fashion this neutral-oak fermented, new-world style pinot. Pale-ruby shaded with fresh aromas of red cherry, cranberry, rose petal and dried herbs escape from the glass. A delicious wash of ripe red cherry flavours combined with tangy raspberry, spice and a hint of vanilla travels the palate with softness and finesse. This well-balanced, medium-bodied red shows harmony of flavours and a lasting spiced finish that keeps you wanting more. Coq-au-vin comes to mind for a delightful pairing. (Louise Boutin)
93
Baker&Brain ‘Pendulum’ 2014
Monterey County $49.95 15.3% alcohol
This southern-Rhône styled lovely blend of 60% grenache and 40% syrah features intense mixed crushed berry, black plum and clove aromas with a hint of dry savoury herb and toasted oak. A plush mouthfeel boosts delicious flavours of black and red plum, uber-ripe blackberry, strawberry and a fresh fennel seed note adding to the complexity of this full-bodied beauty. Alcohol is perfectly integrated and the tannins are pleasantly grippy, offering a long-lasting complex dry finish. Aerate/decant one hour and pour with pasta puttanesca. (Louise Boutin)
92
McManis ‘North Forty’ 2017
California $34.95 13.5% alcohol
This eclectic blend of almost equal parts petit verdot, petite sirah, tannat and teroldego, a northern Italy native grape, offer a lot of intensity both to the robe and the nose. Mixed crushed berry and ripe dark cherry aromas are joined by smoky mocha notes when swirling. A velvet-textured wave of ripe blackberry, cherry and blueberry flavours pleases the palate while evolving to dark chocolate and a dry tart cherry note balancing the medium-long dry finish. A brief six months of aging in new and used French oak barrels softened and added personality to this gem. Pour now to 2022 alongside a grilled, flank steak. (Louise Boutin)
90
Le Fonti Chianti Classico Riserva 2013
DOCG Chianti Classico $44.95 13.5% alcohol
This is a lovely blend of sangiovese with a splash of cabernet sauvignon and merlot aged 24 months in French oak and an additional two years in bottle. The nose exudes notes of dry cherry, black plum, star anise and mature wood. Classic food-friendly wine, this is dry with fine-grained noticeable tannin, sustained acidity and delicious flavours of tart cherry, red plum and baking spice trailing in the delicious medium-long finish. Pour alongside slowly simmered osso bucco. (Louise Boutin)
90
Angelo Nicolis E Figli ‘Seccal’ Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2016
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso $33.95 13.5% alcohol
A Valpolicella wine going through a second fermentation when combined with amarone and recioto grapeskins results in a more complex wine known as ripasso. This one displays aromas of ripe dark fruit, raisin, baking spice and a touch of sweet tobacco and smoke. Silky smooth on the palate at first, it shows character and structure mid-way through with astringent tannin, medium-plus acidity and a delicious fruit profile—dry cherry, ripe blackberry, dark plum and a touch of licorice brightening the long dry finish. This is medium-full bodied and shines alongside braised beef short ribs. (Louise Boutin)
91
Tin Barn Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Pickberry Vineyard’ 2015
Sonoma Valley $46.95 14.2% alcohol
This 100% cabernet sauvignon is sourced from 40-year-old vines planted on volcanic soil. The initial whiff is all about green bell pepper aromas that some swirling help dissipate, letting ripe black fruit, black peppercorn and cedar peek through. Nineteen months of ageing in new French oak barrels bring smoothness and balance to this full-bodied red. Expect flavours of ripe black cherry, cassis, blackberry and vanilla with a lingering light peppery dry finish. Aerate/decant two hours and enjoy with a selection of charcuterie and hard cheese. (Louise Boutin)