Vintages Release: November 24, 2012

****1/2 drink or cellar 
Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port 2000 
Porto, Douro, Portugal $79.95 (140277) 20% alcohol 
This is a dazzling, unctuous, muscular Port from a great vintage reaching maturity circa 2025. Amazingly, it can be poured now after a four-hour aeration-decant. Black cherry, plum and spice on the nose, palate-coating flavours wash in endless waves—cherry clafoutie, macerated fruit and cassis galore interweave with ripe, fresh briary berry and bittersweet chocolate. Unfined and unfiltered with huge, ripe tannin, you’ll need to decant—it pours well with Stilton, Parmigiano-reggiano or death-by-chocolate desserts. (Vic Harradine)