Beckett’s Flat Shiraz 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $22.95 (585869)
This is from a small family-owned and run winery using only estate-grown fruit from this premiere Aussie wine region. Expressive aromas of spice, hints of black pepper, and ripe dark berry fruit segue complex and concentrated flavours of sweet succulent berry fruit—mulberry, black currant and black plum. It’s medium bodied with a creamy mouth feel and a lengthy well-balanced finish. Pick up three or more, it’s delicious and good value. (VH)



Dornier ‘Donatus’ 2004
WO Stellenbosch $24.95 (606020)
This red blend, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, was aged 18 months in new French oak. There are mixed spice, smoky oak and aromatic bitters aromas on the alluring nose. The flavours are expressive and concentrated with succulent dark cherry, cassis and hints of tar to the fore. It’s medium in weight and texture sporting ripe supple tannin and a lingering nicely balanced finish of sweet (14.5% alcohol) rich dark berry fruit flavours. (VH)



Barossa Valley Estate E & E ‘Black Pepper’ Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, Australia $99.95 (731620)
Elegant and concentrated, it’s ready to drink now and has the ability to age to 2015. The ’04 vintage was chosen from only two vineyards from the 80+ group of growers that form this cooperative. This low-production (1000 cases) red is from dry-grown, low-yield, sixty-year-old vines, aged 18 months in American and French oak, a 50/50 split, only 30% new. Warm, sweet (14.2% alcohol) and seductive flavours of briary berry, dark chocolate and tarry notes abound in this plush-textured medium bodied gem. It finishes well balanced and lengthy, layering on dark berry fruit flavours and notes of espresso roast. (VH)