Skillogalee Shiraz 2003
Clare Valley $20.95
This was entirely hand harvested from low yields - 1.6 tons/acre - from estate-owned unirrigated vines. The basket-pressed fruit showcases black pepper and ripe Bing cherry aromas plus an elegant layering of flavours with currant, licorice, mint and black currant discernible. The finish is lengthy and luxurious complemented by ripe tannins and a plush texture. The 24 months of oak is unobtrusive and brilliantly integrated. Gorgeous now to 2014, on its own or with rack of lamb. (VH)

d'Arenberg The Dry Dam Riesling 2006
McLaren Vale $16.95 (942953)
Mineral and lime sherbet aromas waft off the glass of this medium-bodied crisp white. Fruit is hand-picked, gently basket-pressed and only the free run juice is used. Wonderful zippy and zesty on the palate, expect citrus and green apple fruit, it also offers surprisingly smooth, almost creamy, texture. Good to go now and for the next 12 months alongside smoked salmon, a slice of red onion and caper berries. (VH)


d'Arenberg The High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
McLaren Vale $20.95 (943456)
This gutsy red will separate the women from the girls with its good grip (code for noticeable tannins), super ripe fruit and zesty characteristics that attack the palate. Taut and tight at present, it needs cellaring time to open up. If you can't wait, decant for 3 or 4 hours and serve alongside grilled rare red meat. Expect leafy characteristics cloaked with Bing cherry, cassis and toasty flavours from the lifted nose to the lengthy finish. Those with patience will simply beam from 2012 to 2020 at how smart they were to purchase this at a fraction the price you will pay for a wine of this quality then. (VH)

Richard Hamilton Gumprs' Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale $21.95 (600122)
Spiced plum and savoury notes waft from the glass of this medium to full-bodied Shiraz. It exhibits the complex and tangy characteristics of McLaren Vale. Round and plush layers of currant and black cherry fruit abound on the palate along with ripe tannins and moderating tang. The lengthy finish sports a generous spoonful of warm kirsch - a delicious drop. Drink now to 2012. (VH)

d'Arenberg The Broken Fishplate Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Adelaide Hills $16.95
Subdued, but discernible aromatics of herbaceous nettles and passion fruit form the lifted nose of this medium-framed white from the cooler Adelaide Hills. The fabulous texture is achieved via barrel fermentation and the lemon-lime, passion fruit and savoury notes derive from fruit picked at the peak of perfection. This deserves a mesculan salad under heaps of grilled goat cheese and light vinaigrette. (VH)


2005 d'Arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier / Marsanne 2005
Mclaren Vale $16.95 (662775)
Expect lime leaf, savoury herb and spice box off the nose with a hint of honeycomb. The flavour profile is exotic and beguiling with almond, garrigue and nectarine to the fore. The finish is lengthy and luxurious, a serious full-flavoured, well-balanced blend - 63% Viognier, 38% Marsanne- for which a hermit would gladly shell out for a bottle to go with lobster. (VH)


d'Arenberg The Last Ditch Viognier 2006
McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills $18.95
Fermented and aged in old French and American oak barriques, you will detect none in the flavours due to the barrel age, but it certainly has lifted the fruit characteristics and contributed to the plush oily texture. Superb nectarine and sweet ripe peach flavours abound while the subtle honey notes are a portend of the rewards to be reaped from careful cellaring. Good to go now with creamy seafood pasta, or keep 7 or 8 years for a truly unique experience. (VH)


d'Arenberg The Custodian Grenache 2004
McLaren Vale $20.95 (713040)
Montmorency cherry and red currant on the nose, the palate is gloriously rich with gobs of clean refreshing red berry fruit. It is round, warm (14.5% alcohol) and offers impeccable balance and structure. It finishes off in a blaze of lingering cassis, licorice and spice box flavours. The price to quality ratio is skewed heavily in your favour. Stock up, Mate. (VH)


d'Arenberg The Galvo Garage 2003
McLaren Vale $27.95 (907584)
A Cabernet Sauvignon-predominant Bordeaux blend of mammoth proportions that begins with a perfumed nose of minty and spiced black plum aromas. Vanilla, toasty notes and black, juicy, ripe berry fruit characteristics wash over the palate in delectable waves before you realize the oak has been perfectly integrated, the tang in perfect balance and the lengthy fruit-forward finish is a seamless replay of all the previous flavours. Ripe, rich and rewarding. (VH)


d'Arenberg The Twentyeight Road Mourvèdre 2004
McLaren Vale/Langhorne Creek $29.95 .
My first tasting of this unique red, and hopefully not my last. Gutsy and grainy, it offers ladles of brambleberry, smoked meat and spice box flavours that are nothing short of glorious. The palate is also treated to slowly developing flavours of roasted nuts, earthy mushroom and hints of creosote. It finishes with a healthy spoonful of tangy zest to keep it honest, far from jammy and interesting. I reckon this will be just as good, or better, in 2012. (VH)


d'Arenberg The Cadenzia 2004
McLaren Vale $24.95
I'd make book and lay odds on Chester d'Arenberg Osborn, chief winemaker at d'Arenberg, against Dom Perignon for the title of world's best wine blender. Meticulous fruit selection, low yields, foot trod fruit, free run juice and no filter or fining are only the tip of the d'Arenberg. Hundreds of separately fermented and barrelled fruit are assiduously-selected to make up his wine. The result here in this GSM? A dark violet and vibrant colour, silky tannins and hugely concentrated and rich, dark berry fruit coalescing with tangy zest, licorice and spicy notes. The finish adds on coatings of raisiny and crushed herb notes. Superb. (VH)

d'Arenberg The Stump Jump 2006
McLaren Vale $13.95 (922203)
This is a top drop from down under at a very affordable price point. The eclectic blend includes 63% Riesling, 16% Sauvignon Blanc, 13% Roussanne and 7% Marsanne. Clean and refreshing, it has seen no oak. Expect floral and slate notes off the warm nose and gorgeous flavours - peach, green apple, fig and hints of mint - and a plush texture. It has beautiful balance and a lengthy citrussy finish. Just the ticket for warm days and lemon veal. (VH)

d'Arenberg The Money Spider Roussanne 2006
McLaren Vale $19.95 (656710)
Citrus and stone fruit aromas drift from the glass of this medium-bodied gem. Green tea, herbs and white peach flavours coat the palate while the moderating zest provides depth and balance. All lovers of wine need to experience this as it is definitely not run-of-the-mill. The round and warm finish layers on honey and melon. Stunning on its own or paired with salt and pepper calamari, now to 2012. (VH)