by Susan Desjardins
I recently had the opportunity to visit Cape Town, South Africa, and the nearby wine regions of Franschhoek, Stellenbosch and Paarl. This area of the country is dramatically beautiful with a unique natural landscape of fynbos—a category of flora that is one of the smallest in the world yet one of the richest and most diverse in species. One also experiences rugged soaring mountains and the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean, all under a brilliant blue sky. The wine regions are inland, where one views rugged mountains reminiscent of the Okanagan Valley. They guard the verdant valleys showcasing fruit and olive trees along with well-tended vineyards managed by artisan winemakers, large local producers and well-known multi-national corporations. The wineries are often accompanied by fabulous restaurants where artistically prepared dishes, crafted to optimally present local produce, are paired with wines of the region.
While visiting Cape Town and the Garden Route, I had the opportunity to stop in at a few wineries whose products make their way to Canada. It’s clear from this experience we see only a limited range of the extensive variety of high-quality wines available from the Western Cape.
Two DGB properties were visited—Boschendal and Franschhoek Cellars. While DGB has a complicated corporate structure where separate entities are responsible for the estates, the winemaking and product marketing, the whole clearly exceeds the sum of its parts in producing excellent wines. Boschendal was founded in 1685 in the Groot Drakenstein between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, and Franschhoek Cellars (known for its ‘The Bernard Series’ premium wines), that has its wine tasting room right on the main street leading into Franschhoek. I also headed up into the hills to visit Boekenhoutskloof, which has a number of wines in the LCBO under the Wolftrap and Porcupine Ridge labels. I then took the opportunity to visit one of South Africa’s original cooperative wineries, KWV—now corporately owned—whose product line is well-represented in the LCBO and their Cathedral Cellars brand finds its way through Vintages. Finally, I spent a day in Stellenbosch, where I visited Simonsig, whose wonderful sparkling Brut Kaapse Vonkel was released through Vintages last fall, as well as Delheim, whose Shiraz is available in select LCBO stores.
I learned a few things as a result of these visits and tastings. The South African wine industry is extensive and the quality of the wines is extremely high. Unfortunately, in Ontario, as is the case with our own Canadian wines, we see only a tiny subset of the wines produced. Chenin Blanc is indeed a signature white wine crafted in as many styles as one could imagine. And the Pinotage—at least the two examples I tasted—were exceptionally well balanced, fruity and finely structured. Based on that experience, I’m compelled to say that the common misconception regarding the dominant flavour exhibited in Pinotage wines needs to be laid to rest right now!
And now, the wineries . . .
Boschendal, meaning ‘wood and valley’ in Dutch, is the second oldest winery in South Africa, founded in 1685. It comprises 2240 hectares, 200 under vine, and a further large portion devoted to various fruit trees. Phylloxera devastated the wine industry in the area in the late 1800s with the result that all the vines were ripped out and the land planted to fruit to revitalize it. Ports and sherries were originally produced on this estate, but in the 1980s a shift took place to sparkling and still wines—the first being the Blanc de Noir—and DGB has never looked back. The tasting took place under a 300-year-old English oak, reinforcing the long history of the estate as does their '1685' label.
Franschhoek cellars was purchased by DGB in 2007 and is essentially a virtual winery, vinifying wines produced from grapes purchased mainly in the local area but also from the broader Western Cape. The tasting room was recently completely renovated providing a beautiful bright venue to sample their extensive collection of wines.
Boschendal ‘The Pavillion’ Chenin Blanc Viognier 2013
South Africa $10.95 (281311) 13.5% alcohol
Unoaked, offering lifted aromas of ripe fruit—kiwi, melon, peach—and a whiff of spice, this is a dry, medium-bodied wine with an almost spritzy texture. The richness of ripe stone fruit shines on the palate, mingling with exotic spice and a touch of citrus pith. Clean and tangy on the finish, it's a match for grilled chicken or fish. (Susan Desjardins)
Boschendal ‘The Pavillion’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
South Africa $12.00 (222299) 14.0% alcohol
Intense purple, the limited oak aging of this wine creates a subtle frame for waves of ripe fruit and spice. Black fruits, cassis, peppery notes and a whiff of vanilla create a lovely bouquet. The ripe black fruit is lifted by a rush of spice and pepper framed by subtle tannins and fine acidity. Fruity, but dry, there's a tang of red raspberry and lingering peppery notes on the finish. This is an approachable, well-made medium-bodied wine that's a match for veggie or lamb burgers. (Susan Desjardins)
Boschendal '1685' Shiraz 2012
Groot Drakenstein $19.95 (96511) 14.0% alcohol
This semi-opaque Shiraz spent 14 months in new and seasoned French oak, notes of vanilla and sweet spice accenting the intense aromas of red and black berry and ripe plum. Dry, medium bodied, it's appealingly smooth and round with a rousing dose of pepper that unfurls on the palate, accenting the rich flavours of black berry and cherry. Harmonious, well structured with refined acidity and tannins and finishing clean, fruity and fresh, this wine is an ideal partner for grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)
A 2012 Boschendal Chardonnay is available through the SAQ. A portion of the wine was aged in French oak for 9 months, creating lovely toasty, buttery aromas, and round texture. Dry, mid-weight, ripe orchard fruit and notes of lemon-lime carry through the clean yet toasty finish. A great choice for lovers of classic Chardonnay.
Bellingham Bernard Series 'Old Vines' Chenin Blanc 2013
Western Cape $22.95 (12724) 14.0% alcohol
Produced from the fruit of 95-year-old vines and aged 8-12 months in French oak, this golden gem offers beguiling aromas of butter cream, vanilla, orchard fruit and toasted nut. Dry, medium-full bodied, it's creamy and fruity, the oak well integrated, notions of citrus, apricot, pear and nut mingling on the palate. There's good balance on the long full-flavoured finish. (Susan Desjardins)
I also tasted the Bellingham ‘The Bernard Series’ Whole Bunch Roussanne and the Small Barrel SMV, both available in Alberta. If you’re travelling through Heathrow, pick up a bottle of the SMV (Shiraz/Mourvèdre/Viognier). It’s dense and inky with great complexity, tantalizing flavours and a lasting finish. Good to cellar 5-8 years.
Boekenhoutskloof, perched on a Franschhoek hillside, is named for the beech trees that were used in furniture making by the early Dutch and Huguenot settlers. The original farm was established in 1776, growing fruit and raising livestock. In 1993 a group of 7 investors, including Marc Kent, purchased the property and established the winery. The Boekenhoutskloof label features 7 distinct types of Cape-style chairs, honoring the historic beech wood industry and giving the nod to the seven investors. The winery, known for ‘The Chocolate Block’, also produces Wolftrap blends (available in the LCBO) and Porcupine Ridge varietal wines (their Syrah is a Vintages Essentials).
Marc was involved in all aspects of the business in the early days and continues to be the most hands-on investor although his focus now is more on overseeing the operations, marketing and, as he says, ‘I still do all the blending, because it's a particular style we want to create.’
Grapes are sourced from a range of growers, including Semillon from 80 and 115-year-old vines. Only estate Semillon is used to craft their botrytis-affected, Noble Late Harvest wine, with a meagre production of one or two barrels per year.
‘We farm organically’, says Marc, ‘to leave the land in better condition for the future’. Natural yeasts are used in fermentation, only augmented by inoculation when necessary. The Cab and Syrah ferment in rectangular cement tanks while several white varieties ferment in egg-shaped cement containers—often called, ‘Nomblot’s egg’—that require no batonnage and whose form dates back to Roman times. Oak is used judiciously to complement the fruit. Marc speaks with great pride when he states that 20 years ago, their initial vintage produced about 6,000 bottles, while this year they will exceed 6 million.
Wolftrap Viognier Chenin Blanc Grenache Blanc 2013
WO Western Cape $13.95 (292532) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted floral, tropical and stone fruit aromas mingle with sweet spice. Dry, medium bodied, the wine is round yet crisp, displaying a fine seam of acidity and a touch of tannins to complement delicious flavours of stone fruit, pineapple, tangerine, spice and white pepper. There's
great balance to this wine, and a nice tangy finish. Great value! (Susan Desjardins)
Wolftrap Syrah Mourvèdre Viognier 2013
Western Cape $13.95 (292557) 14.0% alcohol
Deep-purple hued, this blend offers complex aromas of herbs, smoke, red rose, black fruits and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it has good structure of ripe tannins and fresh acidity, the texture round yet fresh. Loads of black fruit wash across the palate garnished with notes of spice, dried herbs and pepper. Well balanced and flavourful, it finishes with a touch of spicy warmth. This red twin of the Wolftrap white blend is excellent value and a party pleaser! (Susan Desjardins)
Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2013
WO Swartland $14.95 (595280) 14.0% alcohol
Only a portion of this deep-purple Syrah was aged in oak, ensuring the sweet ripe fruit aromas and flavours shine. Red and black fruit aromas abound; there's a notion of candied fruit along with spice and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine is quite round and plush, deliciously fruity and peppery. Delivering a long warm finish, this wine shows great integration, balance and finesse. A Vintages Essentials product, this wine is always available in select LCBO stores. (Susan Desjardins)
The Chocolate Block 2012 VINTAGES RELEASE DATE TBD
WO Western Cape $39.95 (129353) 14.0% alcohol
Mainly Syrah, this blend also includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Cinsault and Viognier. Inky and opaque, this is a rich, powerful wine offering concentrated aromas of plum, black berry, spiced rose, exotic spice and a whiff of its namesake, chocolate. Dry, full bodied, it's dense and intense, the ripe dark fruit framed by ripe yet perceptible tannins and lifted by fresh acidity that comes through in the tang of raspberries. Notes of pepper and dark chocolate mingle on the persistent dry finish. A well-crafted wine that offers depth, complexity and longevity. (Susan Desjardins)
KWV was founded in 1918 as a winemaking cooperative uniting wine makers in the Western Cape. From inception, its goal was to ensure the continuous improvement of the wines and brandies produced in South Africa. Over the years, it took a significant role in experimenting with innovations that aided the development of the industry and invested significantly in the promotion of the wine industry locally and in international markets. In 2004, the cooperative sold a substantial portion of its shares and now forms a subsidiary of an international corporation. This pioneer continues to pride itself on the quality of its wines, made from grapes sourced from across the Western Cape and produced at the Paarl cellar I visited.
I toured the cellars with Izele van Blerk, who is the designated winemaker for their premium Mentor series, the Cathedral Cellars brand, and all white wines. Her degree at the University of Stellenbosch required a practicum in the last year and she came to KWV. Shortly after her return to university to complete her degree she received a call from cellar master, Johann Fourie, who insisted she return upon graduation! She started working in the cellar and after a year on contract she joined the winemaking team full time.
Now in her seventh year, Izele brims with energy and dedication to her 'children', the wines. She emphasizes her focus on experimentation in winemaking, saying that new fermentation methods, new coopers and new approaches to winemaking are her domain with the small-batch Mentors line. Successful innovations are then trialed in KWV's entry-level wines. It's harvest time, and in the last 3 days she's had only 14 hours sleep as the team races to bring in all the fruit. Izele explained, ‘We've had a heat wave so the sugars have all peaked at the same time. It's going to be a challenging vintage, but that's what makes it interesting.’
The Mentors premium line focuses on terroir and varietal expression, while the Cathedral Cellars wines are vinified to create a specific style, a blend of grapes from select vineyards that defines the best of those regions. The grapes from each farm are fermented and aged separately so that Izele can blend the wines to achieve the style goals she seeks.
Cathedral Cellars 'Methode Cap Classique' Brut
WO Western Cape $16.95 (296426 ) 11.5% alcohol
Produced from a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this refined sparkling wine spent 24 months on the lees and offers a clean, crisp profile and fine, persistent mousse. Dry, light-medium bodied, it's defined by notes of almond biscuit, green apple, citrus and mineral. There's a tangy note of lemon zest on the extended, refreshingly dry finish. This is a great choice to celebrate with friends or enjoy with a light meal. (Susan Desjardins)
Cathedral Cellars Merlot 2011
WO Western Cape $15.95 (522219) 14.3%
The fruit for this ruby-hued wine came largely from the warm vineyards of Swartland, it was fermented at a low temperature to capture that ripe fruit then aged 16 months in a combination of new and seasoned oak. It offers complex aromas and flavours of black cherry, plum, roasted red pepper, spice and a touch of cedar. Dry, medium bodied, the ripe spicy fruit explodes on the palate framed by subtle tannins and well-integrated oak. Fine toasty notes carry through the remarkably fresh, fruity finish. A well-crafted, savoury wine. (Susan Desjardins)
Cathedral Cellars Shiraz
WO Western Cape $15.95 (561142) 14.0% alcohol
This opaque, purple Shiraz was aged 16 months in oak, principally French. The aromas rush from the glass—intense ripe black fruit, sweet spice, red rose, vanilla and a hint of licorice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it balances lots of black plum and berry flavours with the tang of currants and red berries. There's a firm structure, good acidity and freshness to the texture along with tasty notes of spice, white pepper and cinnamon toast on the lasting finish. Great balance and mouth feel! Pair with steak or ribs. (Susan Desjardins)
The Malan family took over the Simonsig estate in 1953, selling their grapes to the local cooperative for a number of years. In 1968, they bottled their first wine and by 1971 they introduced the first Methode Cap Classique wine—Kaapse Vonkel—which literally translates to Cape Sparkling. The estate includes two different properties totalling 300 acres with 215 under vine, accounting for two-thirds of their production. The remaining grapes are sourced on long-term contracts—in the case of Chenin Blanc, from their immediate neighbour.
Johann Malan has been winemaker and cellar master for over 30 years. He was one of the founders of the Cap Classique association, as well as a founder, along with the owners of Delheim and Spier, of the Stellenbosch wine route. In 1971 these wineries created the first formal tasting rooms in the region and essentially inaugurated the wine tourism industry.
Grapes on the estate are hand harvested, fermentation occurs either in open tanks, through pump over, or in rotary tanks, depending on the variety. As an example, the Pinotage is gently handled through open fermentation and the juice is taken off the skins quickly to avoid over extraction. The winery has over 2000 barrels and barrel size is a factor, again depending on the variety. For instance, the Chenin Blanc is aged in 400 litre barrels rather than 225 to soften the oak influence.
There are only a few Simonsig wines in the LCBO. A pity, as their traditional method sparkling wines are outstanding - sales of their Brut Rosé have doubled over the past two years and their Hilltop Pinotage is fabulously fruity and well structured with none of the burnt rubber notes historically associated with this variety.
Residents of Quebec will find their Chardonnay at the SAQ, a buttery, dry, medium/bodied wine offering lovely flavours of dried apricot pear/ apple crisp and notes of toasted almond. It's creamy, smooth and long on the finish.
Simonsig Chenin Blanc 2013
WO Stellenbosch $12.95 (981167 ) 13.5% alcohol
Golden-hued and richly fruity, the lifted aromas include floral notes, stone and tropical fruit with a whiff of spice. Dry, yet fruit forward, it has a fine creamy texture, partly as a result of time on the lees, and sufficient acidity to balance the fruit basket on the palate—peach, pear, pineapple, kiwi. On the finish, the fruit is emphasized by a touch of residual sugar. (Susan Desjardins)
Located on high south western facing slopes of the Simonsberg Mountains near Stellenbosch, the Delheim property was a working farm when Spatz Sperling arrived in South Africa from Germany in the 1950's to work with his uncle. Together, they recognized the grape-growing potential of the site and, through trial and error, Spatz turned Delheim into the recognized South African winery it is today.
A Delheim wine won best white table wine as early as 1959 and the winery continued on this path to success after Spatz took over running of the farm. Today his family continues to be actively involved in operations - Nora Sperling Thiel toured me around the estate, cellars and restaurant. Canadian winemaker Ann Sperling has visited here and there was a joint winemaking collaboration in the past. There is no hesitation, however, to bring in the expertise they require as has been done with winemaker Reg Holder, who took time from the harvest to host the tasting. As we sipped and spat, he emphasized the winery's goal to create wines that are a true expression of the fruit and terroir.
Delheim Pinotage Rosé 2013
Coastal Region $15.95 (721670) 12.5% alcohol
Pinotage with a touch of Muscat Ottonel, this rosé's pale-salmon hue reflects minimum skin contact. It offers aromas and flavours of ripe red fruits and hints of spice. There's a bit of spritz on the palate and the touch of residual sugar delivers a lasting fruity finish. A crowd-pleaser to be enjoyed well chilled. (Susan Desjardins)
Delheim 'Simonsberg' Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
WO Simonsberg $18.95 (981357) 14.5% alcohol
This was produced from declassified fruit that would normally go into their Grand Reserve. Aged in French oak for 17 months, this is a beautifully crafted, well integrated, substantial wine. Inky purple, the complexity starts on the nose—aromas of cassis and plum emerge and mingle with mint, dried herbs, cedar, smoke and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, the firm frame of tannins and fine acidity accent the ripe flavours of black currant, berry and plum. Notions of exotic spice and dark chocolate tantalize with subtle notes of toast manifesting on the extended finish. A restrained, elegant yet powerful wine that's an outstanding value. Pick up a few bottles to enjoy now with grilled meats and over the next few years. (Susan Desjardins)
La Motte was originally a Huguenot farm, with the original 4,000 vines planted in 1752. It was acquired in1970 by the late Dr. Anton Rupert, a respected industrialist, and continues to be operated by the family.
The estate includes the fabulous Pierneef restaurant, where Chef Chris Erasmus orchestrates his staff in the creation of remarkably flavourful and artistic dining experiences from a beautifully laid out open kitchen.
The estate has been certified organic and produces a collection of wine which includes a Shiraz Viognier, for which it is best known. While none of the wines are available in Ontario, you’ll find the La Motte Shiraz 2010 at the SAQ - from a cooler vintage, this is a medium bodied Shiraz with lighter tannins. Fermented in stainless steel and aged 14 months in French oak, it presents notes of black cherry and plum, a touch of roasted peppers, white pepper and spice, and a lovely fresh texture. It's elegant, balanced, showing notes of toast and dark chocolate on the lasting finish.
This small sampling of the wineries of South Africa is just enough to tantalize and to make you wish for more time and more opportunities. Oh well, it just means planning the next trip . . .