by Vic Harradine

South Africa FlagThis newly minted, Wine of Origin-designated region is in the far south of the Cape winelands with wineries two to eight kilometers from the Indian Ocean. It sports a maritime climate enjoying cool, southerly breezes channeled through the valley in summer accompanied by sea mists and overcast conditions accounting for the even temperatures. It’s now divided into three distinct areas - WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, WO Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley and WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge. Tim Hamilton-Russell was an early 1975 pioneer showing the way for what is a now a small collection of premium winemaking families. Hamilton Russell now doffs their cap to this cool-climate region by producing only Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with stunning results. Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc are also showing their mettle, other producers pick up that challenge.

The wineries are 90 minutes from Cape Town and ten or fifteen from Hermanus, the picturesque whale-watching town at the beginning of the famous Garden Route. The area was not always known for the awe-inspiring landscape, whale watching or stunning wines. From 1817 until 1845, when it was moved to Robben Island, just off Cape Town, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley was the site of South Africa’s first leper colony. Hermanus was also a location thought to have healing powers, with many flocking there, convalescing by breathing in the ‘Champagne’ air from the southerly sea breezes. It’s one of the must-see, must-stay spots on a visit to South Africa’s Western Cape.

Whalehaven WinesIdiom Wines / Whalehaven Wines

Both owned by Bottega Family Wines, Idiom’s Da Capo vineyards are in Helderberg, near Stellenbosch, while Whalehaven is your first winery stop entering the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley from Hermanus, some six or seven minutes by car. Accomplished winemaker Reino Thiart looks after both producing a solid string of value-for-money reds and whites.

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Winemaker Reino ThiartIdiom Shiraz/Mourvèdre/Viognier 2007
WO Stellenbosch $27.95 14.5% alcohol
Tangy and juicy throughout, this is balanced and structured with savoury spice and gamy notes on the nose. The 76% Shiraz in this blend shines through with black plum compote, sour cherry and peppery notes galore. It’s mid-full weight with silky-smooth mouth feel and a supple tannin underpinning. The mouth-watering aftertaste makes each sip better than the previous and food pairing versatile—grilled ribs, osso bucco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)

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Idiom Viognier 2008
WO Stellenbosch $18.95 13.0% alcohol
Opening with perfumed aromas of honeyed orchard fruit and floral notes, it caresses the palate with a textured wash of key lime pie, nutty notes interlaced with wisps of apple and pear. The deftly integrated oak—barrel fermented and aged 10 months in predominantly seasoned barrels—it finishes in a blaze of crisp, lip-smacking tang. Pair with pan-seared scallops over mixed greens drizzled with light, lemon vinaigrette (Vic Harradine)

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Whalehaven Wines Chardonnay 2007
WO Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley $18.95 13.5% alcohol
An alluring bouquet of toast, nutmeg and cinnamon segue a balanced, beautiful river of tangy citrus, minerality and succulent white peach mingling with crisp, Granny Smith apple. This was 100% barrel fermented with bi-weekly, gentle lees stirring then aged in 50% new French oak barrels and 50% seasoned. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with a long refreshing aftertaste. An additional year in bottle will pay off handsomely. (Vic Harradine)

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Whalehaven Wines Pinot Noir 2009
WO Elgin $22.95 13.5% alcohol
Cooler-climate Elgin fruit stars in this medium-full bodied, fully textured Pinot—cold soaked 2 days after de-stemming then lightly crushed, full malolactic in seasoned barrels followed by 12 months in new and seasoned French oak. Floral, spice and red berry fruit on the nose, this dishes up an involved stream of black licorice and sweet, dark berry fruit with wisps of smoke. It’s nicely balanced sipping well on its own or paired with smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

Ataraxia WinesAtaraxia Wines

Ataraxia – (noun) a serene state of mind free from worry and preoccupation. Owner/winemaker Kevin Grant cut his teeth in Hemel-en-Aarde as winemaker at Hamilton Russell for ten years before moving on to his own 47 hectare digs, a few kilometers down the road. It’s still early days, but he’s turning heads with fruit sourced from the area and a little further afield with his first, and anxiously awaited, Pinot Noir now in bottle—from the 2010 vintage—and just weeks away from release; it’s expected to be very special.

The vineyard site is 400 metres above sea level approximately seven kilometers from the sea with 22 hectare of vines enjoying those cooling breezes. Fourteen different soils derived from ancient, clay-rich, stony Bokkeveld (Malmesbury) shale have been catalogued and farmed with sustainable, minimal intervention. Vines have a SSE exposure sheltered from the late-day sun by mountains to the north. The wine tasting room, designed as a chapel, was built at the highest point providing a 360 degree view of the estate and it’s very impressive.

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Ataraxia Chardonnay 2009
WO Western Cape $29.95 14.0% alcohol
Apple pie spice, orchard fruit and wisps to toast waft easily from this well-balanced, fully flavoured beauty. Sourced from Elgin and Hemel-en-Aarde fruit, this was aged 10 months in 1/3rd new, 2/3rd second-fill, French oak barriques. Full-blown flavours of crisp green apple, sweet yellow plum and toasty notes coat the palate. It’s complex, structured and focused with previous flavours replayed through the persistent, lip-smacking finish. (Vic Harradine)

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Ataraxia Sauvignon Blanc 2010
WO Western Cape $15.95 14.0% alcohol
This walks the fine line of delivering crisp, pungent, refreshing acidity without sacrificing rich, ripe fruit flavour—Bravo. Lanolin, beeswax and spice aromas introduce luscious flavours of tangy, lemon chiffon pie filling bolstered by ripe pineapple and wisps of honey. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering, lip-smacking finish. If given the opportunity to pick up a few, jump at it. (Vic Harradine)

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Ataraxia ‘Serenity’ 2008
WO Western Cape $22.95 14.5% alcohol
A propriety red blend of ‘two classic red Mediterranean varietals’ it underwent 7 days of cold soak then to barrel for malolactic conversion before being aged 12 months in French oak barriques followed by 29 months in bottle, released March 2012. An involved nose of licorice and charred wood presages a tangy wash of spice-infused black plum, black currant and red cherry. It finishes lengthy and juicy with supple tannin and dark berry fruit interwoven with toasty oak. Aerate/decant 3 hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

Hamilton RussellHamilton Russell

Hamilton Russell produces only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, both arguably amongst not only South Africa’s best, but amongst the best in the New World. Tim Hamilton Russell found and purchased this land in 1975, one of South Africa’s most southerly estates. Present owner and Tim’s son, Anthony Hamilton Russell, took over the reins in 1991. Soil composition testing in 1994 showcased 52 hectares of stony, clay-rich, shale-derived soil and it is on this that vineyards have been planted and continue to thrive. These vineyards have shaped winemakers who have now given life to neighbouring wineries. The dapper, handsome Anthony conducted the tasting for winecurrent accompanied by an articulate, precision-like presentation on the extreme lengths they go to produce their world-class wines—both Anthony and the wine tasted were extremely impressive.

Anthony Hamilton Russell and Hannes StormFrom their website, ‘Anthony with winemaker Hannes Storm and viticulturist Johan Montgomery are completely dedicated to expressing the personality of the Hamilton Russell Vineyards terroir in their wines. Tiny yields and intense worldwide demand keep the elegant, highly individual, Estate grown Pinot noir and Chardonnay in very short supply.’

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Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2010
WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (931006) $31.95 13.0% alcohol
Focused and pure, the perfumed aromas interweave green apple, ripe pear and nutty notes. There’s a spine of clean, lemon-lime acidity throughout bolstered by minerality, and succulent white peach garnished with cinnamon. It’s complex, structured, mid-full weight with generous texture and a lengthy, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. Aficionado or tenderfoot, don’t hesitate; purchase for now and the next 5 years. (Vic Harradine)

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Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2011
WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (931006) $31.95 13.0% alcohol
Low-yielding fruit—3 ton to the acre—was barrel fermented then aged 8 months in new and seasoned small barrels of French oak. Hi-toned aromas of citrus, orchard fruit and spice provide segue to a taut stream of key lime, juicy white nectarine and ripe Bosc pear. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and finishes in a blaze of citrus tang, mixed spice and mineral notes—will benefit greatly from 2 or more additional years in bottle. (Vic Harradine)

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Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2009
WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley $40.25 13.5% alcohol
Available now in the SAQ #11155737 at $40.25, this offers up aromas of rose petals, exotic spice, gamy tones and a dark, earthy character. There’s great carpentry here with a supple tannin underpinning, good complexity and wonderful sense of purpose. The fruit’s in the red zone with currant, cherry and ripe cranberry carried on a moderating bed of acidity coupled with juicy, tangy fruit through the dry, mouth-watering finish. More old world than new with a price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

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Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2010
WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley $40.25
Aromas of forest floor, dried currants and savoury spice introduce a medium-weight, laser-like channel of zesty tang—red currant and sour cherry—interwoven with perceptible tannin and ripe black currant and briary berry flavours, especially on the dry, lingering finish. It’s mid weight with good texture and oodles of style and structure. Aerate/decant for 3 hours or pop the cork 2014 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Newton Johnson Family VineyardsNewton Johnson Family Vineyards

Newton Johnson wines are amazingly consistent across their entire portfolio delivering high-quality product at every price point with the Family Vineyards series quite stunning. Winemaker, Gordon Newton Johnson, conducted the tasting outlining their careful approach to achieving excellence. When Newton Johnson is on the label, you’ll taste dedication to excellence with every sip and you’ll enjoy a favourable price-quality ratio from every penny spent. Don’t pass up any opportunity to try their wine.

Gordon Newton JohnsonFrom their website, ‘Their restaurant ‘Heaven’ is located beside the tasting room and not to be missed. The style is distinctively Brasserie with a twist of unique flavours to give the menu a very distinctive and decadent appeal. Lunch is served with the Patron Chef, Stefan Louw, in attendance in his open kitchen for you to see how your choice of dish is prepared by his very competent and creative team. Dishes are carefully prepared from fresh produce from the surrounding area and their own ‘veggie patch’.

There are two properties belonging to the domaine, Newton Johnson Vineyards (north-facing) and Sandford (south facing), with 18 Ha of vineyard planted and 140 Ha in total. Our farming practices are sustainable and environmentally friendly, that inevitably leads to better wine in the bottle. Our vineyards are 100% free of any leaf roll virus, having used natural agents such as ladybird and wasp insects over the years to keep our vineyards healthy. We also utilize high density plantings and some alternative vine training methods, such as ‘guyot’ (cane pruned) and ‘echalas’ (stake trained) vines, striving for more balance in the growth of the vineyards and better flavour representation. Our soils, here in the upper part of the valley, are variable concentrations and depths of decomposed granite, fine fragments of quartz, and clay. The diversity produces a variety of characters, from fine and perfumed to more structured wines.’

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Newton Johnson ‘Felicite’ Sauvignon Blanc 2011
WO Worcester $13.95 13.5% alcohol
Slate, grassy notes, orchard fruit and citrus on the nose, it bursts on the palate with a glorious rush of succulent peach, gooseberry and crisp green apple interlaced with lemongrass. There’s 7% Sémillon and 7% Nouvelle—a South African crossing of Semillon and Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano)—the latter adding herbaceous notes. It’s mid weight with lovely mouth feel and a clean tangy aftertaste. A great quaffer and pairs well with seafood. (Vic Harradine)

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Newton Johnson ‘Resonance’ Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2010
WO Walker Bay $18.95 13.5% alcohol
An 84/16 blend, 20% of the Semillon was barrel fermented with indigenous yeast. It’s rich and complex with nutty notes and honeyed pit fruit aromas presaging a river of beautifully balanced, silky-smooth flavour with quince jelly, apricot and zesty orange peel to the fore. There’s structure, good weight and a monumental finish that’s lip-smacking good. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

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Newton Johnson ‘Family Vineyards’ Chardonnay 2011
WO Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley $32.95 13.0% alcohol
This is flagship in name and quality; it’s structured and complex showcasing finesse and elegance. It was hand picked, hand sorted, natural yeast for primary fermentation and malolactic, and gravity fed. Delicate aromas of kitchen spice, crisp apple and ripe pear announce this medium-weight, smoothly textured beauty. Balanced flavours—cinnamon and nutmeg-infused apple, tangy lemon pie filling and sweet, ripe pit fruit interlace with deftly integrated oak. This is a beautifully crafted Chardonnay. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Newton Johnson ‘Family Vineyards’ Pinot Noir 2010
WO Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley $34.95 13.5% alcohol
This caresses the senses and palate with complexity, dark fruit, generous mouth feel and a tangy, dry finish. Aromas of spice-infused, dark berry fruit and gamy notes provide segue to a structured, focused river of deftly balanced flavour—black currant, sour cherry and strawberry. The oak and tannin’s imperceptible, the sublime experience unavoidable—kudos to winemaker extraordinaire, Gordon Newton Johnson. (Vic Harradine)

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Newton Johnson ‘Family Vineyards – Full Stop Rock’ 2008
WO Walker Bay $17.95 14.0% alcohol
Two-metre-deep, boulder-strewn vineyards, redolent of the Rhône Valley, earn the moniker, ‘Full Stop Rock’. Aromas of exotic spice, peppery notes and hints of lilac define this medium-full bodied, savoury red blend—mostly Syrah with 3% Mourvèdre and 3% Grenache. Tangy and juicy from cork pop to last drop, there’s flavour galore—red and black currant, red cherry and spice-infused black plum compote. The lingering finish layers on a silky tannin underpinning, black licorice and dark cherry. (Vic Harradine)

Bouchard FinlaysonBouchard Finlayson

From their website, 'Established in 1989, Bouchard Finlayson is a boutique winery dedicated to the making of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc wines of outstanding quality. Located in the wine ward of Walker Bay, an hour and a half from Cape Town, the 125-hectare property currently has 22 hectares under vines; the rest is mountain land, covered by the spectacular indigenous ‘fynbos’ flora of the Western Cape. With only a small portion of the farm under vine Bouchard Finlayson is able to ensure the conservancy of the mountain land. Bouchard Finlayson is renowned as one of South Africa’s top wineries and this can be attributed to their philosophy and focus to produce wines of the finest quality.

Peter FinlaysonWinemaker Peter Finlayson, is a graduate oenologist from Stellenbosch University, he furthered his studies at Geisenheim in the Rheingau in 1975. A period (between 1976 and 1979) at the fledgling Boschendal winery was followed by the challenge of setting up and running the first winery in the Hemel-en-Aarde valley. His success at this cellar has been recognized globally, with a string of awards including the 1989 Diners Club Winemaker of the Year for his achievements with the Pinot noir grape. In the same year, Peter was to establish Bouchard Finlayson together with business partner Michael Clark.'

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Bouchard Finlayson ‘Sans Barrique’ Chardonnay 2010
WO Overberg $22.95 13.0% alcohol
Clean, crisp and refreshing throughout, the nose opens with aromas of orchard fruit, citrus and mineral notes flirting with slate. Deliver a boatload of flavour, it streams across the palate with succulent white peach, ripe pear and Granny Smith apple interlaced with spiced yellow plum. It’s light on its feet with nice texture and a clean mouth-watering aftertaste. A great sipper that pours well with pasta in creamy sauce or rotisserie chicken. (Vic Harradine)

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Bouchard Finlayson ‘Crocodile's Lair/Kaaimansgat’ Chardonnay 2010
WO Overberg $24.95 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of nutmeg, citrus and pit fruit wafts easily from the glass. Dry-farmed, 20-year-old vines growing at 700 metres coalesce with the master’s touch—winemaker, Peter Finlayson—fashioning this medium-full bodied, gorgeously balanced beauty. Green apple, white nectarine and apple pie spice wash over the palate, persisting through the lingering, balanced, refreshing finish. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour, pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

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Bouchard Finlayson ‘Crocodile's Lair/Kaaimansgat – Limited Edition’ Chardonnay 2010
WO Overberg $32.95 13.5% alcohol
Aged 50% in French oak with the balance unoaked, helped fashion this complex, structured and well-balanced Chardonnay. Toasty notes and nutmeg/cinnamon on the nose presages a delectable river of salad bowl of ripe pit fruit and apple mingling with spice and citrus on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. Well made, well paced, and well… delicious. (Vic Harradine)

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Bouchard Finlayson ‘Galpin Peak’ Pinot Noir 2010
WO Walker Bay $52.95 14.5% alcohol
Offering incredible dark fruit flavour, balance and charm, it opens with aromas of savoury spice and herbs mingling with dark berry fruit. Chewy and concentrated with palate-coating flavour—black currant, briary berry and a moderating spine of acidity—it’s mid-full weight with good texture and a lingering, complex, aftertaste boasting well-integrated oak, supple tannin and irresistible mouth-watering tang. Winemaker Peter Finlayson cut his teeth long ago on the region’s Pinot Noir as winemaker at the then fledgling Hamilton Russell. (Vic Harradine)

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Bouchard Finlayson ‘Hannibal’ 2009
WO Walker Bay $42.95 14.0% alcohol
An involved blend of 50% Sangiovese, 22% Pinot Noir, 13% Nebbiolo, 7% Mourvèdre, 6% Barbera and 2% Shiraz, it bolts from the glass with aromas of rich ripe berry fruit and exotic spice. This is mid weight, well balanced with good texture washing in waves of rich, dark cherry, cassis and sweet, ripe mulberry over the palate and long, lip-smacking finish. Ripe, sweet tannin plays a supportive role as does the wisp of toasty oak—overall, it’s simply delicious. (Vic Harradine)

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Bouchard Finlayson ‘Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
WO Walker Bay $24.95 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of orange blossom and herbaceous notes dominate the aromas while the palate’s treated to a gusher of medium-bodied, well-textured, almost fleshy, flavour—gooseberry and lemongrass interlaced with tropical fruit—melon and pineapple—persisting through the lengthy aftertaste. There’s good balance, oodles of charm and an opportunity to drink now to 2016. (Vic Harradine)