by Susan Desjardins

A recent trip to Niagara provided the opportunity to visit a few newer wineries in the region. Sue-Ann Staff, a well-known award-winning local winemaker has established her own winery on her family’s historic farm property. Two of her white wines have already sold out, but she is about to release two reds, including a deep, complex Cab/Merlot blend and velvety, berry-rich Cab Franc. The Good Earth Vineyard and Winery features Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cab Franc, and is an extension of Nicolette Novak’s successful Good Earth Cooking School. There’s a very attractive new tasting room, dining room and outdoor patio, featuring the good food she’s known for, as well as some very tasty wines. Established by the Hoare family, who emigrated from the UK to Niagara via New Brunswick, Aure’s tasting room opened just this May. Their first vintage includes a dry Riesling and a lively Gamay, among others. A promising Cabernet Franc and an Old Vines Foch are still in barrel.

**** drink or cellar
Sue-Ann Staff Semi-dry Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 10.0% alcohol
Produced from grapes harvested from 4 separate parcels, this is Sue-Ann Staff’s first wine as proprietor. Pale yellow-green, there’s a whiff of petrol over mineral notes and the aromas of zesty citrus, ripe stone fruit and fresh-picked apple. Light-medium bodied and off-dry, this wine displays a great balance of fresh acidity, underlying minerality and tangy fruit that persists through the lasting finish. Lovely now on its own or with light appetizers, this wine will continue to age gracefully. Available from Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Sue-Ann Staff Baco Noir 2008
VQA Ontario $16.00 11.5% alcohol
Deep red with a violet note, this lightly oaked Baco is dry, smooth and flavourful. There’s attractive complexity on the nose—earthy, herbal notes, hints of mushroom and cured meat mingling with the scent of dark fruit. Medium bodied, the flavours of red fruits, spice and a hint of char are matched with lively acidity with the earthiness persisting through a clean fresh finish. Enjoy with eggplant parmigiana. Available from Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
The Good Wine Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.00 12.5% alcohol
Lightly oaked in one-year old French barrels, this dry medium-bodied wine offers delectable aromas of citrus, pear, tropical fruit and a subtle floral note. Silky in texture, the well-integrated oak, fresh acidity, ripe orchard fruit and lively citrus create a delightful taste experience and a lasting well-balanced finish. Available only from The Good Earth Vineyard and Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
The Good Wine Rosé 2010
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $18.00 13.1% alcohol
Candy-apple red, this rosé is principally Cabernet Franc that went through a cold soak and cold stainless steel fermentation. It’s suffused with aromas of red berry fruit, a hint of sweet herbs and a tantalizing earthiness. Delightfully dry, medium bodied, there’s plenty of fruit on the palate, hints of white pepper and some lingering herbal notes on the fresh clean finish. A versatile wine to be chilled and enjoyed on its own or with grilled trout or salmon. Available only from The Good Earth Vineyard and Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
The Good Wine Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00 12.7% alcohol
Deep ruby, this wine spent 10 months in neutral oak barrels and offers a classic nose of red berries, roast beets, spice and earth. Dry, medium bodied, there’s attractive complexity and balance—lively acidity, underlying minerality, earthiness, a hint of herbs and a replay of the spice, raspberry and strawberry. The finish is dry, fruity and persistent. It was great with grilled salmon over a salad with quinoa and roasted tomatoes or try with veal chops and mushrooms. Available only from The Good Earth Vineyard and Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Aure Riesling 2010
VQA $15.20 12.5% alcohol
Bone dry, light-medium bodied, the aromas are citrus, green apple and wet stone. Offering a silky texture, the wine is bright, lively and zippy, with a palate of fresh citrus—grapefruit and lemon to the fore. The finish is lasting and slightly pithy. Enjoy with freshwater fish or seafood. Available from Aure Wines. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Aure Gamay 2010
VQA $16.20 12.0% alcohol
David Hoare was inspired to produce this wine by his memories of sipping chilled Beaujolais in a Paris café. A lovely pale candy-apple red, this dry, medium bodied wine offers appealing aromas of pepper, spice and red cherry. Vibrant acidity, a pronounced peppery note and flavours of zesty red fruit—pie cherry, raspberry and cranberry—create a tangy lip-smacking finish. Try it with grilled sausages. Available from Aure Wines. (Susan Desjardins)