Susan Desjardins, intrepid traveler, visited two VQA Ontario wine regions and three fledgling wineries to bring you a peek into the future. You can get ahead of the curve by trying these wines now, before they become mainstream. Susan’s tasting notes follow. Lailey winemaker, Derek Barnett, sat with Vic offering a number of his recent bottlings from 2008 and 2009. Vic’s tasting notes follow.
Pondview Estate Winery
If you don’t know of the Puglisi family’s Niagara-on-the-Lake winery, Pondview, which opened this year, you’ll want to get acquainted with their wines. Lou Puglisi was crowned Grape King in 2008 and, after visiting a number of small family-owned wineries in the Okanagan, decided to make his own wine, rather than continue to sell his grapes. With only 2,800 cases produced from their first commercial vintage, 2009, you’ll have to order quickly—their 2008 Cabernet Franc sold out in 3 weeks. Keep an eye out for their barrel-fermented Chardonnay and the 2009 Cabernet Franc—the barrel samples I tasted hold promise for great wines.
Pondview Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 12.5% alcohol
Just off-dry, this silky smooth Riesling has aromas and flavours of ripe orchard fruit underlaid with vibrant lemon-lime acidity and a light mineral note. It’s well balanced, zesty and fruity, with a lasting fresh finish. Great with lake perch and a squeeze of lemon. Available by the bottle or case from Pondview. (Susan Desjardins)
Pondview Cabernet Franc Rosé 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.00 12.7% alcohol
Produced from a block of vines specifically set aside to create rosé, the wine was fermented dry in stainless steel, kissed with a touch of Cabernet Franc ice wine. This rosé has great salmon-pink color and packs a punch! Sweet spicy red berry aromas and flavors captivate—raspberry, strawberry and ripe cranberry. Smooth but crisp and vibrant, it has great texture and presence on the palate. The bright fruity finish keeps you coming back for more. Available by the bottle or case from Pondview. (Susan Desjardins)
Pondview Unoaked Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.00 14.3% alcohol
Pale gold, this wine was fermented in stainless steel and spent 6 months on the lies. It’s aromatically intense, reminiscent of ripe pears and spicy apples. Medium-bodied and creamy, there’s a vibrant backbone of citrusy acidity. A hint of brioche mingles with the fresh citrus on the lengthy finish. Available by the bottle or case from Pondview. (Susan Desjardins)
Viewpointe Estate Winery
Viewpointe Estate Winery, located near Colchester and overlooking Lake Erie, has a mission to showcase Essex County’s fine wine . . . and food. Owner John Fancsy and viticulturalist Peter Pfeifer have taken this to its limit, testing thousands of varietals and clones over the past 10 years to identify those they feel are optimized in Essex County. The result is their ‘Colchester Cuvée’, available for the first time this year. Viewpointe ‘Colchester Cuvée Premiere Vintage’ 2008
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $16.95 13.3% alcohol
Produced using organic methods, this wine is a blend of three sustainable and cold-hardy cultivars, aged in oak for 10 months. A deep violet hue, the aromas are rich, sweet dark berry fruit. It’s smooth, medium bodied and full flavored. Ripe berry flavours are framed by fine tannin and lively acidity. The lingering fruity finish is mid length, with hints of pepper and dark chocolate. Available only from Viewpointe. (Susan Desjardins)
Viewpointe ‘Fine Pointe’ Pinot Noir 2005
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $19.95 12.7% alcohol
Aged twenty-four months in French oak, this semi-transparent wine has classic earthy, barnyard and pie cherry aromas with an elusive herbal note. It’s light-medium bodied and silky with fine tannins a spine of racy acidity and bright red cherry/berry flavours. Hints of light spice and white pepper underlay the fresh red fruit on the extended finish. Enjoy it with duck confit. Available only from Viewpointe. (Susan Desjardins)
Viewpointe Riesling 2006
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $13.95 12.5% alcohol
Bright and golden, this wine entices with aromas of stone fruit and citrus. Dancing lightly on the palate, it’s zesty and fresh with vibrant flavours of citrus and green apple. There’s a mineral note on the crisp, refreshing finish. Available only from Viewpointe. (Susan Desjardins)
D’Angelo Estate Winery
D’Angelo Estate wineries are located both in Ontario, near Amherstburg, and in the Okanagan, on the Naramata bench. At their Ontario location, the D’Angelo family have focused on cultivars which are optimized on their site, including Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Marechal Foch, Chardonnay and Vidal. New plantings include Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. D’Angelo Pinot Noir 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $20.00 14.0% alcohol
Light brick in color, this award-winning wine has lifted aromas of berry pie and sweet roasted red pepper with an underlying earthy note. It’s nicely structured, with fresh acidity, soft silky tannin, red berry flavours and a whiff of white pepper. Medium bodied, it has a refreshing extended finish with a hint of toast. A great food wine, try it with grilled salmon. Available only from D’Angelo. (Susan Desjardins)
D’Angelo Cabernet Franc 2005
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $20.00 13.5% alcohol
Another medal winner, this Cabernet Franc displays some classic herbal notes along with aromas of plum and lively red fruit. It’s dry, medium bodied, with firm tannins and fresh acidity. Notes of toast and dark chocolate garnish a core of ripe red fruit, carrying through on the extended finish. Enjoy with grilled meats or vegetables. Available only from D’Angelo. (Susan Desjardins)
D’Angelo ‘Old Vines’ Marechal Foch 2002
VQA Ontario $15.00 14.0% alcohol
Foch is no longer common in Ontario, and this intensely inky wine is well worth trying. It has complex aromas—plum, roasted nuts, dark chocolate, dark berries and light herbal notes. Medium-full bodied, it’s balanced and smooth with the flavours replaying the complex aromas. The wine is nicely integrated with silky tannins and soft acidity. The integrity of the aromas and flavours is evident on the extended finish, a lingering essence of dark stone fruit, char and sweet herbs. Great with steak or game. Available only from D’Angelo. (Susan Desjardins)
Lailey Vineyard Wines
Lailey Vineyard Wines are in the Niagara Peninsula sub-appellation of Niagara River. Most of the vines are east facing, allowing favourable sun exposure. Their close approximation to the Niagara River affords an ameliorating effect on the temperature by cooling down the hottest days and warming possibly damaging frosts, much as Lake Ontario does for various sub-appellations. Donna Lailey is a pioneer of modern Niagara. She and husband David, planted pristine vineyards in 1970 and now provide stewardship, along with business partner and winemaker, Derek Barnett, to some of the oldest vinifera vines in Canada. Donna was also a founding member, and the only female, of Vintners Quality Alliance and the first Niagara ‘Grape Queen’. Derek’s wine-making talents have lifted Lailey wines to premium-quality status as they’re showcased by deft balance, generous texture and versatility with food. Lailey Vineyard also released the first commercial wine aged in Canadian oak—winecurrent will review one next issue.
Lailey Vineyard Wines ‘Old Vines’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara River $40.20 12.5% alcohol
From 32-year-old vines, hand picked and barrel fermented, this limited-production gem is elegant, structured and brimming with deftly balanced flavour adorned by seamlessly integrated seasoned oak. Alluring aromas of mixed spice, peel marmalade and orchard fruit segue into a striking palate-coating array of flavours—white peach, ripe pear and luscious pineapple. It’s medium-full bodied, satin smooth with a lingering aftertaste. Winemaker, Derek Barnett, looks for flint and mineral characteristics to develop over the next 5 years. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard Wines ‘Meritage’ 2008
VQA Niagara River $25.20 12.5% alcohol
A fairly even split between Merlot and the two Cabs, this is value-packed, incredibly rich and concentrated with excellent structure and fabulous flavour; what’s not to like? Succulent mulberry, luscious black currant and spice-infused cherry wash over the palate in waves; it’s a medium-bodied nicely textured gem. The oak and ripe, supple tannin are seamlessly integrated and the aftertaste lingers. About as good as it gets around here. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara River $20.20 12.5% alcohol
Nestled beside the Niagara River, this tiny ¾-acre block produced only 90 cases of fabulous wine. With the slightest hint of grass on the nose, along with apple and pear, this blossoms on the palate with waves of luscious flavour—key lime, minerality, peach and pear. Barrel fermented and lees stirred, the texture is full on and smooth as silk. The crisp, deftly balanced finish is lip-smacking lengthy. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard Wines Syrah 2008
VQA Niagara River $27.20 12.5% alcohol
This is a classy Côte-Rôtie-styled gem that’s complex, value packed and brimming with flavour. Alluring aromas of lilac, underbrush and peppery, gamy notes segue into a persistent, balanced wash of endless flavour—succulent mulberry, racy red cherry and spice-infused currant. It’s medium weight, generously textured and underpinned by a sweet tannin structure. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic and Susan