by Vic Harradine

Australia – As a global wine exporter whose image is dominated, many argue tarnished, by commodity wines marketed at low retail prices, one might think the will or the ability to make fine wine has been lost or abandoned. Most argue these mass-produced commodity reds have no sense of place, finesse or structure. Vic’s there now, tasting and reviewing wines from smaller cutting-edge wineries in lesser-known wine regions—in the previous winecurrent issue it was Tasmania. If you missed it - Read it now. Those from Tasmania and the following from Victoria, are producers who are part of the movement toward cool-climate, terroir-driven fine wine that showcases balance, flavour and structure.

The state of Victoria is another logical hunting ground with 21 individual Geographical Indication (GI) regions. GI is akin to an appellation system indicating differences in soil, geology and macro climate. These, along with other factors, make up terroir. Many of these regions are classified ‘cool climate’ and there are a number of small, independent wineries within each. Four are featured below along with reviews of their wines. They’re worth seeking out as some have made their way to Vintages and others are on the way. Yet others are available through their agents via the consignment channel.

BlackJack Vineyards – take two mates, a mid-life crisis and a dream, then stir. Add 20 plus years of toil, a dollop of the smarts and a bucket of luck… voila, BlackJack! Owners Ken Pollock, a competent math teacher, and Ian Mackenzie, a gregarious pharmacist—neighbours and friends—were spurred on by Ian’s itch for change. Settling on oenology courses at Roseworthy and a search for land, they found it in cooler-climate Bendigo region in the Harcourt Valley. They planted 4 hectares, mostly of Shiraz, in 1988 long before Shiraz was popular. Now there are 6 hectares in total with their flagship wine, Block 6, sourced from a later-planted plot using a different Shiraz clone. Blasting from the blocks with numerous wine awards and trophies, they haven’t looked back, now enjoying a cult-like following. The recent 5-star winery rating from James Halliday is icing on the cake!


BlackJack Cabernet Merlot 2007
Bendigo, Australia $25.00 13.5% alcohol
A very smart blend of 90% Cabernet and 10% Merlot, this opens with lifted aromas of spice box and eucalyptus. Flavours of pie cherry and dark berry fruit abound underpinned by a firm tannin structure and a lovely balancing stream of racy zest. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and sports a lingering refreshing finish. Best poured between now and 2016 with grilled steak that’s on the rare to medium-rare side. (Vic Harradine)


BlackJack ‘Block 6’ Shiraz 2007
Bendigo, Australia $35.00 13.5% alcohol
A delicate nose offers up aromas of red and dark berry fruit mingling with spice. This delivers excellent structure and balance with the 100% French oak barrel ageing—22 months—seamlessly integrated. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it showcases elegance, charm and punches well above the price. The delectable flavours of black Damson plum, black currant and juicy Bing cherry mingle with spice and floral notes building on the palate to a monumental finish of 40 seconds or more. (Vic Harradine)


BlackJack Shiraz 2007
Bendigo, Australia $35.00 14.5% alcohol
From a lovely warm vintage, this low-yield gem is flavour-filled and deftly balanced. The expressive aromas are a glorious array—dark chocolate, earthy notes, spice and mint. On the generously textured palate there’s an endless stream of tangy flavours with bright red cherry, succulent mulberry and red currant to the fore. It’s medium bodied with a lengthy aftertaste with the oak deftly integrated. The overall experience is redolent of a fine Rhône Valley Syrah. (Vic Harradine)


BlackJack ‘Block 6’ Shiraz 2005
Bendigo, Australia $35.00 14.5% alcohol
This tangy racy number was hand-picked, fermented in open top fermenters, hand plunged then aged in American and French oak barrels for 22 months. Aromas of savoury spice, earthy tones and dark cherry peel from the glass and segue zesty flavours of savoury mint, green tobacco leaf and red currant mingling with pie cherry. It’s mid weight and nicely textured, sporting a dry oaky finish with a firm tannin underpinning. This Rhône-styled Shiraz ratchets up a couple of notches with food—give it a go with grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)


BlackJack Shiraz 2005
Bendigo, Australia $35.00 14.5% alcohol
This fabulous red opens with a tantalizing bouquet of mocha, spice, dark cherry and mint rolling easily from the glass. Gorgeous flavours coat the palate with dark chocolate, tarry cherry and plum galore supported by ripe fine-grained tannin and racy acidity. This is balanced and well structured delivering generous texture on a medium-bodied frame. The lengthy finish leaves you begging for more—a template for fine Australian Shiraz. (Vic Harradine)

Blue Pyrenees Estate – beginning life in 1963 as Château Remy—owned by the then proprietors of Champagne houses Krug and Charles Heidsieck—Blue Pyrenees Estate now counts itself as one of Australia’s pioneers in cool-climate viticulture. Located a leisurely two hour drive NW of Melbourne, its 165 acres of vines are nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees range. The winery sits as a monument to its origins with a cave, pupitres and hand-riddled sparkling wine, but they’ve now expanded their horizons with an excellent range of still wine. Senior Winemaker and General Manager Andrew Koerner’s bio reads like a wine rock star—graduating from Roseworthy in 1992 with a B. Sc. Oenology he began as a winemaker with St. Huberts in the Yarra then to historic Seppelt and in 2001 to Rosemount as winery manager and winemaker in control of their premium wines, and now with Blue Pyrenees for the past seven years. No surprise, their wines are gaining national and international awards and recognition.


Blue Pyrenees Sparkling Pinot Noir Brut Rosé 2001
Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia $24.00 12.2% alcohol
Mixed spice box, mineral, leesy and earthy notes segue an explosion of tiny bubbles—just like in the song—and complex flavours galore with sweet red berry fruit, red licorice and racy ruby red grapefruit tang predominant. Couple this with a generous texture and citrusy lip-smacking finish and you’ve a wine that’s well aged and well under valued—it’s made in the manner of Champagne at one quarter the price of admission. (Vic Harradine)


Blue Pyrenees Sparkling Brut Non-Vintage
Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia $20.00 13.0% alcohol
This is a blend of 89% Chardonnay and 11% Pinot Meunier with a mineral, white peach and citrus nose. The vigorous mousse carries crisp and refreshing flavours of lemon-lime and nectarine along with racy acidity and hints of spice. It dances lightly on the palate providing a crisp finish and an easy wine to sip or pair with sea food or fish appetizers. (Vic Harradine)


Blue Pyrenees Sparkling Brut 2006
Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia $24.00 13.0% alcohol
There’s an expressive nose of brioche and spice from this Chardonnay/Pinot Noir/Pinot Meuniere blend. Fresh fruit flavours of citrus and red berry fruit are carried along with a dazzling array of fine-bead bubbles, bracing acidity and a generous mouthfeel. It finishes crisp and refreshing and with enough oomph and body to pour alongside roast chicken or pork or pan-seared veal medallions. Good value. (Vic Harradine)


Blue Pyrenees ‘Estate Grown and Bottled’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia $18.00 14.0% alcohol
This is a ripper with a rich and concentrated nose of vanilla and mixed dark berry fruit leading to a palate-coating wash of complex flavour with black currant, notes of savoury mint and dark chocolate to the fore. It’s mid weight, perfectly balanced sporting a solid underpinning of perceptible fine-grained tannin and excellent balancing tang and zest. Rich dark bramble berry fruit dominates the lip-smacking lengthy finish. Decant a couple of hours pouring alongside a rare grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Blue Pyrenees ‘Estate Red’ 2006
Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia $32.00 14.5% alcohol
A well-sculpted blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 14% Shiraz, it opens with a lifted and complex nose of ripe berry fruit, juicy cherry and nuances of dill. Ripe mulberry and black Bing cherry mingle with savoury spice and earthy notes on the palate and the lingering luxurious aftertaste. This is complex, structured and deftly balanced. The oak has been seamlessly integrated and the overall tasting experience is outstanding. (Vic Harradine)


Blue Pyrenees ‘Estate Grown and Bottled’ Shiraz 2006
Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia $18.00 14.5% alcohol
Dark and inky coloured, this value-packed gem offers expressive aromas of spice, dark berry fruit and cherry. Flavourful and very well balanced it dishes up a big mouthful of ripe succulent fruit—black Damson plum and chocolate-dipped Bing cherry—framed by tangy acidity and a ripe resolved tannin structure. The finish is lingering with added nuances of blueberry and vanilla. This punches well above the price. (Vic Harradine)

Mitchelton Wines – can boast of their ‘Print Label Shiraz’ being classified in Langton’s, a Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy win and their crackerjack winemaker, Ben Haines, honoured as 2009-Young Wine Maker of the Year. And that’s not all; they’ve a dazzling Riesling in the Blackwood Park. The dynamic duo that have things humming along now at Mitchelton are viticulturist John Beresford and winemaker Haines. John began his University training in oenology, realizing early on the vineyard held more interest, finishing up in viticulture. He and Ben work as a team moving steadily toward organic certification. The land these vineyards now occupy were hand-picked in 1967 by one of Australia’s most revered wine makers and personalities, Colin Preece. With a blank cheque and all of South Eastern Australia from which to choose, he chose wisely.


Mitchelton ‘Blackwood Park’ Riesling 2009
Central Victoria, Australia $17.00 13.0% alcohol
This is Mitchelton’s well-sculpted flagship white that’s gained many awards and a loyal following over 30 plus years. Light-straw coloured with a tinge of green, it delivers crisp aromas of floral, mineral and citrus mingling with nuances of ripe cantaloupe. It dances lightly on the palate offering up tangy flavours of key lime pie and white grapefruit that persist through the laser-like lip-smacking finish. Fashioned with minimal intervention, the terroir and fruit strut their stuff. (Vic Harradine)


Mitchelton ‘Clarke’s Block - 30GR’ Riesling 2008
Central Victoria, Australia $17.00 11.5% alcohol
Expressive lime, green apple and floral aromas segue flavours of ripe sweet pit fruit and zesty citrus. It’s mid weight and nicely textured offering a lengthy mouth-watering finish. Tangy and off-dry, this delivers that yin and yang that matches up well with spicy Asian dishes like chicken rendang and vegetable biryani. Well balanced, well priced and well…delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Mitchelton ‘Crescent’ Mourvèdre/Shiraz/Grenache 2004
Central Victoria, Australia $29.95 (6725430) 14.5% alcohol
Leather, raisined berry fruit and ripe fig aromas roll easily off this beautifully balanced, smooth and mellow blend. The fresh fruit flavours—mulberry and ripe red cherry—are underpinned by ripe resolved tannin and a lovely burst of acidity. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a lingering luxurious finish. It showcases six years of bottle age adding a delightful dimension to an already fine wine that was sourced from +40-year-old vines. (Vic Harradine)


Mitchelton Heathcote Shiraz 2006
Heathcote, Australia $35.00 14.5% alcohol
The fruit for this delectable red was sourced from low-cropped dry-grown vines. The aromas and flavours are complex and involved with mixed berry fruit, spiced black plum, mint and earthy tones all making an appearance. It’s medium bodied, extremely well balanced and beautifully textured with the delectable flavours carried along on a bed of ripe tannin and lip-smacking acidity. The juicy finish lingers with great purity of fruit and hints of mocha. (Vic Harradine)


Mitchelton ‘Print Label’ Shiraz 2004
Central Victoria, Australia $65.00 14.5% alcohol
This is their flagship red with a Langton’s classification and an illustrious history. Savoury herb and slight hints of leather on the nose, it dishes out a well-balanced and complex array of flavours and texture with ripe mulberry, mixed spice and pie cherry to the fore. The 18 months of oak barrel ageing has been seamlessly integrated. It’s mid weight, generously textured and sports a lingering finish that adds on a layer of firm tannin, ripe black cherry and additional sprigs of savoury spice. Decant for two to three hours or enjoy 2014 to 2018 with roast leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Mitchelton ‘Preece’ Chardonnay 2008
Victoria, Australia $15.00 14.0% alcohol
This easy-drinking quaffer delivers the goods and then some; wild yeast and partially barrel fermented, it’s value packed, crisp and clean. Vanilla and toasty oak on the nose, it delivers a nicely textured mouthful of balanced flavour with green apple, hints of white peach and a generous spine of citrus acidity. It’s mid weight and offers a refreshing aftertaste that sets it up as an aperitif or poured perfectly alongside pan-seared sea food or steamed mussels. (Vic Harradine)


Mitchelton ‘Preece’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Victoria, Australia $15.00 14.0% alcohol
With a doff of the cap to the illustrious Colin Preece, the aromas of black currant, mocha and black plum segue a rich wash of rich flavour with succulent cherry, dark chocolate and spice box predominant. Straightforward and delicious, there’s ripe tannin for structure, good acidity for balance and big bang for your dollar. The generous mouth feel and flavour profile persist throughout the lengthy finish. It’s the perfect foil to grilled steak or grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

Stonier – with their Chardonnay planted in 1978 and Pinot Noir in 1982, they boast some of the oldest vines in the Mornington Peninsula—now a hugely popular tourism and wine region. Only an hour’s drive south of Melbourne, the cellar door activity is brisk and Stonier have a smartly designed winery that was built in 1991. Along with the great Stonier wines now rocketing to prominence, land has skyrocketed past $300 000 per hectare. This cooler-climate maritime region is known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with Stonier a premium producer. Stonier winemaker, Mike Symons, grows and fashions wines using—and fusing for their sparkling wine—only these two varietals. This allows him laser-like focus within this mid-size winery and incredible attention to detail with almost everything crafted by hand. Stonier flagship wines are their single-vineyard offerings. Barrel samples from the ’09 vintage of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir portend outstanding wines when bottled, keep them in mind.


Stonier Sparkling 2006
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia $27.00 12.5% alcohol
Well paced and very well priced, this Vintage sparkler was fashioned using two of the grapes of Champagne—60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir—and a similar method of production. The fine perlage—tiny bubbles—and aromas of citrus and baking brioche mark this as well-made wine. On the generously textured palate it’s clean and refreshing with a persistent stream of ripe lemon and green apple flavour throughout. This is a great party starter with the body and flavour to pair well with lighter-styled sea food, chicken or veal. (Vic Harradine)


Stonier Chardonnay 2007
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia $24.95 (25353) 14.0% alcohol
Nutty, toasty oak and mineral aromas on the expressive nose segue a mouth-filling palate-coating wash of flavour—sweet luscious ripe nectarine, persimmon and a burst of crisp white grapefruit tang. This is medium bodied, nicely textured, almost buttery, with deftly integrated oak and a lingering crisp refreshing finish. It earned its final ½ star on value. Great to quaff on its own, it’s a match made in heaven poured alongside boudin blanc with leeks and a mustard sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Stonier Chardonnay 2008
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia $24.95 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of hazelnut, tropical fruit and toasty notes roll from this medium-weight beautifully balanced gem. Palate-drenching flavours of ripe yellow peach, spiced green apple mingle with nuances of caramel throughout. This is a mouth-filling and generously textured Chardonnay with barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation and lees stirring all playing a part. It finishes refreshing and crisp with lip-smacking citrus tang. Give it a go with something special—sweetbreads in a Champagne cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Stonier ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2007
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia $42.00 13.5% alcohol
Smoke, oak and nutty aromas segue a flavour-packed mouth-filling imbibing experience with delectable flavours of ripe pear, crisp Granny Smith apple and lemon sorbet. The majority of the fruit was hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, barrel fermented and aged eleven months in French oak barriques. This is well structured, perfectly balanced and sports a lingering finish of ripe citrus, mixed spice and nuances of minerality. (Vic Harradine)


Stonier ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2007
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia $50.00 13.5% alcohol
There’s dark fruit showing up in the deep rich purple colour and on the mid-weight beautifully balanced flavours. Aromas of spice, earthy notes and red cherry abound on the lifted nose while the flavours of black currant, cranberry and sweet juicy cherry are underpinned by good acidity and a firm tannin structure. This fruit for this was hand-picked, hand-plunged and aged in French oak barrels. The oak has been well integrated while the finish is dry and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)


Stonier ‘Windmill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2007
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia $60.00 13.9% alcohol
Showcasing finesse and elegance, this delivers a glorious glass of well-structured perfectly balanced Pinot Noir. Floral, savoury herb and earthy aromas tantalize the nose while the juicy flavours gently wash over the palate in waves with cranberry, hints of beetroot and pie cherry predominant. There’s lovely texture, firm tannin, a bracing spine of acidity and a lengthy dry aftertaste adding on a layer of sweet red berry flavour. Drink now to 2016 on its own or with coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)