by Vic Harradine

You’ve tasted his wines, probably more than once, and you’ll certainly recognize the ‘Hardys’ name. It’s one of Australia’s, and the wine world’s most recognizable brands. Bill Hardy—great, great grandson of founder Thomas Hardy—visited Ontario recently. Winecurrent was there to taste wine and to share the reviews and Bill’s incredible wine-related family stories with you. Not stories really, they’re chronicles, but more on that later.

Bill HardyBill is the Chief Oenologist of Hardys and grandson of Eileen Hardy. He’s a trained winemaker, initially in Australia then Bordeaux, making him one of the earliest Australian winemakers to study abroad and one of the last to train under iconic Emile Peynaud, considered the father of modern winemaking. He’s also a gentleman and a raconteur who never tires of regaling every fortunate person within earshot of the fabulous accomplishments and vignettes surrounding Hardys’ 150 year success story.

Not wanting this to be lost, he’s recorded them and they’re captured in a series of wines being launched in the fall of 2009—‘The Chronicles’. Each wine is named for a particular event in his family’s history and a brief explanation is provided on the wine label. In effect, you get a winemaker and a raconteur with each glass. Along with reviews of the wine tasted, there are brief vignettes of Bill’s wonderful wine-related family history. Enjoy!

Thomas Hardy left England in 1850 and with little more than persistence, determination and audacious daring, by 1853 he’d founded the famous Hardys winery. Today, it’s one of the most valuable and recognized brands in the world.

**** drink now
Hardys ‘The Chronicles – The Gamble’ Pinot Gris 2008
South Australia $14.95 13% alcohol

Floral and spice-driven on the nose, it delivers a persistent stream of glorious fruit-driven flavour with ripe tropical fruit—honey dew melon and pineapple—melding seamlessly with honeyed apple, ripe pear and moderating citrus. This is medium weight, generously textured with a lingering well-balanced finish. You leave nothing to chance pouring this alongside pan-seared fresh water fish. (Vic Harradine)

Founder Thomas Hardy once worked for the legendary John Reynell—the producer of South Australia’s first commercial wine—minding cattle. In a short period of time he twice lost the herd. Luckily, he found his way working with vines.

***1/2 drink now
Hardys ‘The Chronicles – Twice Lost’ Rosé 2008
South Australia $14.95 12.5% alcohol

Aromas of exotic spice and freshly picked and sliced strawberry drift from the glass of this medium-bodied extremely well-balanced rosé. Expressive flavours of red cherry, cranberry and ruby red grapefruit mingle effortlessly with nuances of spice and pomegranate. It’s nicely textured and sports a lengthy finish. Grilled cedar-planked salmon would be a hardy pairing. (Vic Harradine)

Thomas, the enterprising founder of Hardys, drove cattle from South Australia to the Victorian goldfields starting a butchery selling beef to hungry miners. This helped stake his vineyard purchases.

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Hardys ‘The Chronicles – Butcher’s Gold’ Shiraz - Sangiovese 2007
South Australia $15.95 14% alcohol

Subtle aromas of red field berry and lavender waft sparingly from this red blend. It’s silky smooth and deftly balanced with a wash of round mellow flavour—ripe succulent boysenberry, juicy black Bing cherry and black currant among them. Lovely sipped on its own, it glitters like gold when poured with spiced and barbecued back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

In a very innovative move for the time, Thomas Hardy used the word ‘Oomoo’, from a local Aboriginal dialect meaning ‘good’, for one of his wines. The brand and a retro label was re-launched in 2003 to celebrate Hardys’ 150th anniversary.

**** drink or cellar
Hardys ‘Oomoo’ Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 14% alcohol

The subtle nose of spice, leather and toast gives way to an explosion of rich warm and concentrated fruit flavour with mulberry, sweet cassis and oodles of dark juicy cherry to the fore. It’s medium to full bodied nicely textured and sports a delightful and well-balanced finish that layers on nuances of espresso roast and mixed spice. Paired perfectly with grilled lamb tenderloins rubbed with garlic and rosemary. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Hardys ‘Oomoo’ Shiraz 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 14.5% alcohol
The dark purple and glass-staining liquid gives off highly perfumed aromas of exotic spice, black pepper and dark berry fruit. Flavours of kirsch liqueur, boysenberry and mocha abound mingling with generous helpings of moderating acidity. It’s deftly balanced, medium bodied and generously textured with a lingering fruity finish—what’s not to like? Pick up a few to pair with pizza, burgers and grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

Thomas Hardy Cabernet Sauvignon is a relative newcomer, launched in 1989, originally made from the best parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon in South Australia. Depending on the vintage, fruit from Western Australia may now be included. It’s quickly establishing itself as one of Australia’s wine stars.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Thomas Hardy Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Margaret River, Australia $88.95 14% alcohol

Showered with medals and accolades, it earned 4 gold medals and a Blue/Gold trophy to date. The nose is resplendent with savoury spice and dark berry fruit aromas. This is medium weight, generously textured and underpinned by a firm tannin structure. The flavours are focused and laser-like with red cherry, black currant and generous sprigs of mint apparent. It finishes lengthy with good acidity, nuances of lilac and cassis with a leafy character. This should provide optimum drinking 2011 to 2017. (Vic Harradine)

Eileen Hardy Shiraz is arguably one of the top drops in Australia. It earned its way to the ‘Outstanding’ category of the respected ‘Langton’s Classification’ through consistent excellence. It was launched in 1973 to celebrate Eileen’s 80th birthday. Eileen Hardy O.B.E. was the matriarch of this iconic winemaking and sailing family.

**** drink now
Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2003
McLaren Vale $88.95 (461368) 14% alcohol

Lively and racy, this opens with a gorgeous array of aromas with dark berry fruit, eucalyptus and mixed spice predominant. Flavours of pie cherry, ripe juicy cranberry and red currant glide along on a medium weight nicely textured frame, still wrapped in a firm tannin structure. Not as open and expansive as some vintages, it finishes with zesty lip-smacking fruit flavour. Pour alongside spiced and grilled pork back ribs. (Vic Harradine)