November 16, 2014 Newsletter

Beaujolais nouveau has arrived - These are inexpensive, fun, party wines appealing to those without a pretentious, wine-snobbish bone in their body. A special edition of winecurrent will be published at 12:01 am on Thursday, November 20 announcing the arrival of nine 2014 Beaujolais Nouveau wines to be released when LCBO stores open that morning. This is a world-wide party in which millions of bottles are consumed and you can participate. The nine wines will be listed with prices and tasting comments with winecurrent having sampled the wine prior to publishing the newsletter. Along with comments on each, there’ll be suggestions on how to best enjoy them.

If you’d like to brush up on this annual phenomenon, here’s a quick read - Beaujolais Nouveau from the folks at Wine Country Travel and this from - Countdown to Beaujolais Nouveau Day.

The California Wine Fair dates are always worth recording—it visits eight centres across Canada from coast to coast. Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year that one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets @ www.calwine.ca on January 15, 2015 and have questions answered now via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675). 


There are NO tickets sold at the door! 



The California Wine Fair Tour moves across Canada on the following dates:

• Tuesday, April 7th: Québec City, Espace Dalhousie
• Wednesday, April 8th: Montreal, Québec, Le Centre Sheraton
• Friday, April 10th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa
• Monday, April 13th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
• Wednesday, April 15th: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Halifax Convention Centre
• Wednesday, April 22nd: Edmonton, Alberta, Shaw Conference Centre
• Friday, April 24th: Calgary, Alberta, BMO Centre, Calgary Stampede, Palomino Room
• Monday, April 27th: Vancouver, British Columbia, Vancouver Convention Centre

Newsletter highlights include:

• Exceptional value wines  – only 7 of 83 wines reviewed here meet the strict quality-price guidelines – ranging from $9.95 to $30.00 found throughout the entire newsletter. All are identified by the   icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
• 5-star Wine – five wines rang the 5-star bell – Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine Estate Carte Blanche’ Blanc de Blanc 2008 @ $44.95 under Sparkling Wine; Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Chardonnay 2011 @ $30.00 under Ontario: White Wine; Versado ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2010 @ $60.95 under Argentina: Red Wine; Wither Hills Pinot Noir 2011 @ $29.95 under New Zealand: Red Wine; Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012 @ $89.95 under France: Red Wine.
• Susan Selects – Torres ‘Floralis’ Moscatel Oro Non-Vintage 4 stars @ $16.95 500 mL under Fortified Wine: Vino di Licor; Domaine Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Aurore’ Brut Rosé 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Sparkling Wine.
• Vic Picks – Wynns ‘Coonawarra Estate’ Shiraz 2012 4½ stars @ $22.95 under Australia: Red Wine; Frescobaldi ‘Castello Di Pomino’ Pomino Bianco 2013 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Italy: White Wine. 

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. Always best to phone first.

Using the winery name link in the New in Ontario Wineries section, allows you to order for home, office or restaurant delivery subject to each winery’s shipping procedure.

Vintages Release: November 22, 2014 

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Vino di Licor

Torres ‘Floralis’ Moscatel Oro Non-Vintage

Spain $16.95 (642173) 500 mL 15.0% alcohol

Torres has been producing this wine since the 1940s – no wonder it’s so beautifully wrought! Tawny in colour, this lovely dessert wine has high-toned aromas of dried fruits—in particular dried apricots—honey and toast. The texture is rich, sumptuous and honeyed, with pretty notes of orange zest garnishing the dried fruit flavours. It’s full-bodied and opulent with tangy acidity a great foil for the sweetness. The finish is extended and very nicely balanced. It’s a treat on its own or with fruit tart. (Susan Desjardins) 

Fortified Wine: Port

Burmester ‘10 Year Old Tawny’ Port

DOC Douro $24.95 (223958) 20.0% alcohol

Aromatic and extremely versatile, this is food friendly with a long, delicious, sweet aftertaste. Spice cake, iodine and orange marmalade on the nose, it bathes the palate with round fleshy flavours—toffee apple, crème caramel and toasted almonds. Tawny Port gains its name from the tawny colour from many years aged in barrel—resolving tannin and imparting a silky-smooth, lip-smacking experience. Lovely on its own, serve slightly chilled with consommé, fruit cake or Amarelo cheese. (Vic Harradine) 

Fortified Wine: Dessert

Quady ‘Essensia Orange’ Muscat 2012
California $14.95 375 mL (299552) 15.0% alcohol
Liquid pleasure in a half-bottle; this jumps from the glass with honeyed apricot and exotic spice aromas. Honeyed fruit—mandarin orange, white nectarine and notions of spice-infused peel marmalade bathe the palate, delicately balanced, incredibly delicious. It’s gorgeous on its own, as an aperitif or paired with fruit flan, blue-veined cheese or crème brûlée. (Vic Harradine)

Icewine

 
Cave Spring Cellars Riesling Icewine 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $49.95 375 mL (447441) 12.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of ripe nectarine and baked apple herald an explosion of flavours on the palate with honeyed, spiced apple, pear and nectarine to the fore. This is structured, balanced and absolutely delectable. It’s medium-plus bodied with satin-smooth mouth feel and balancing acidity on the lengthy aftertaste. Can easily be served as dessert and shared between four. (Vic Harradine)

 
Henry of Pelham Cabernet Icewine 2013
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula $39.95 200 mL (672402) 9.5% alcohol
Aromas and flavours of spice, strawberry and mixed field berry abound. It’s balanced on a pin with sweet ripe fruit mingling with tangy acidity on the palate and stunning finish. It’s full bodied and fully textured and not the least cloying. Pour on its own as dessert for a decadent, romantic treat between two people or alongside strawberries dipped in dark chocolate. (Vic Harradine)

 
Reif Vidal Icewine 2012
VQA Niagara River $24.95 200 mL (544791) 10.0% alcohol
This is unctuous, rich and complex; the array of aromas include orange-peel marmalade, ripe apricot and honeyed pit fruit. It coats the palate with a sweet, but never cloying, river of apricot preserve, dried mango and hints of lemon drop and truffles. Mid-plus weight and über creamy smooth on the palate, this pours well with foie gras, fruit flan or on its own as a special dessert for two—it’s both balanced and bold. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin ‘Vintage’ Rosé Champagne 2004

AOC Champagne $99.95 (588475) 12.0% alcohol

Leesy, toasty aromas broaden out to baking brioche on the nose providing segue to a rich, dense and concentrated swath of flavour on the palate—red currant, pomegranate and spice-infused red plum embroidered by a fine-bead mousse and lengthy, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. Has the structure to front up well to roast turkey with all the fixings or pan-seared salmon or tuna. (Vic Harradine) 

Sparkling Wine

Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine Estate Carte Blanche’ Blanc de Blanc 2008

VQA Short Hills Bench $44.95 (315200) 12.0% alcohol 

This vintage-dated Chardonnay was hand harvested, partial barrel-fermented, made in the traditional method and left on its lees 4½ years before disgorgement. Mineral, floral, nutty and citrus notes intro a stunning mouthful of bubbles, lemon curd, ripe yellow plum and apple garnished with wisps of tropical fruit and ripe pear. It’s structured, complex and very long on the crisp, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine) 

Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Brut

New Zealand $21.95 (163634) 12.0% alcohol

Aromas of baking brioche and alluring floral notes open this zippy refreshing gem. The energetic mousse supports flavours of green apple, ripe white peach and slate. It’s nicely textured and finishes lengthy with ripe citrus, sweet notes of ripe pineapple and tree fruit. The sweet and tang on the lip-smacking finish offers the opportunity to pair with spicy appetizers or to sip on its own, either is equally delightful. (Vic Harradine) 

Bailly Lapierre ‘Réserve’ Crémant de Bourgogne

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (991562) 12.0% alcohol 

An almost transparent straw colour, this lovely sparkler has delicate aromas of pear, green apple and brioche. It’s quite rich and fruity on the palate—tree fruit in particular with a citrus note—and the mousse is soft and creamy. This is finely balanced, well crafted and quite flavourful. An underlying minerality and fresh fruity acidity persist on the finish. This is good value. (Susan Desjardins) 

Domaine Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Aurore’ Brut Rosé

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (048793) 12.0% alcohol

Pale-salmon hued, this is absolutely delightful—a medium-bodied sparkler that’s fruity and dry. From subtle aromas of summer berries, spice and brioche through to the delicate creamy mousse that refreshes the palate, it offers light, red berry flavours and a lengthy mouth-watering finish. Great value, enjoy it wiling away an afternoon or with smoked salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

Ferrari Brut Non-Vintage
DOC Trento $25.95 (352153) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of tropical fruit, floral notes and baked apple introduce a mid-weight, nicely textured profusion of bubbles riding over the palate garnished with a tapestry of flavour—leesy/baked brioche notes interweaving with apple, poached pear and lemon curd—balanced and persistent through the lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Belcanto Di Bellussi Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene Superiore Non-Vintage
DOCG Valdobbiadene $18.95 (53215) 11.5% alcohol
This is crisp, clean and refreshing with notes of minerality and lemon acidity streaking across the palate preceded by a quiet nose of crisp green apple and minerality. There’s a solid line of acidity throughout with lime and pineapple peeking through on the finish. A lovely welcoming wine or serve with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

 
Coyote’s Run ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (336115) 13.7 % alcohol 

There’s a pithy, citrus note on the nose, mingling with sweet orchard fruit, vanilla and fine spice. On the dry, medium-bodied palate there’s lovely balance and integration of the Hungarian oak. The creamy texture is paired with a defined seam of acidity, lifting the whiff of pineapple and the warm flavours of pear tart and sautéed apple through the extended finish. A fine match for white meats or ham. (Susan Desjardins) 

 
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Chardonnay 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.00 (33936) 13.5% alcohol 

Spice box, ripe apple, pear and toasty oak aromas spill from this rich, complex and beautifully structured gem. Baked apple pie, vanilla and lemon curd interlace with peach and nectarine on the mid-full weight, generously textured wash bathing the palate, persisting through the long finish. It’s tangy and mouth-watering on the aftertaste and was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

 
Tawse ‘Laidlaw Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula $44.95 (265796) 13.0% alcohol
Spice-infused aromas of black plum and black currant are precursor to a tang-laden flow of sour cherry and cranberry flavour. It’s mid-weight and nicely textured with firm structure, purity of fruit and a lingering, mouth-watering finish showcasing a solid tannin underpinning. It’s slated to pay handsome dividends to the patient wine lover while popping corks 2016-20

California: White Wine

Eberle Mill Road Vineyard Viognier 2012
Paso Robles $20.95 (313478) 15.0% alcohol
Honeysuckle, orchard fruit and mixed spice aromas portend the rich luscious flavours bathing the palate, infusing the lingering aftertaste—apricot tart and mango robed in enough tangy acidity to provide balance and oodles of charm. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with enough oomph to pair well with roast pork or stuffed bird with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)

Liberty School Chardonnay 2013
Central Coast $18.95 (960120) 13.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of toasted almond, smoke and piquant spice swirl from this mid-plus bodied, fully flavoured Chardonnay. Broad strokes of tropical fruit and white peach wash over the palate balanced nicely with grilled pineapple and lemon pie filling. It finishes lengthy and fruit-laden with balance and charm. (Vic Harradine)

Wente ‘Riva Ranch’ Chardonnay 2012
Arroyo Seco, Monterey $21.95 (979344) 13.5% alcohol
This is a classic California Chard from a treasured viticulture area and an iconic producer—it’s balanced and structured showcasing complexity, structure and balance. Aromas of peach, pear and mango are harbingers of a rich, luscious stream of ripe nectarine, apple and pear bathing the palate robed in notions of hazelnut and toasty bits, framed with good acidity. Good value here. Give this a go with roast bird or steamed lobster. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Conundrum Red 2012
California $24.95 (294298) 14.0% alcohol
Mocha, cinnamon and dark cherry/berry aromas reveal a gorgeous gusher of baking spice, rich, dark Bing cherry and ripe briary berry with fine-grain tannin structure and excellent moderating acidity throughout. Mid-full weight with good mouth feel, the finish replays flavours adding notions of sweet vanilla and spice. Aerate/decant for two hours and give this a go with gourmet burgers or grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

Irony ‘Small Lot Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

Napa Valley $19.95 (025106) 14.5% alcohol 

This trusted producer of good-value, balanced, flavour-filled wine doesn’t disappoint here. Aromas of dark berry fruit, spice, notions of anise and mint spill from this medium-bodied, heavenly textured gem. There’s a salad bowl of palate-bathing flavours—black bramble berry, ripe mulberry and spice-infused dark, juicy Bing cherry—interlaced with sweet vanilla and toasty bits from seven months in French and American oak persisting through the balanced, complex, lingering aftertaste. Great value, great wine. (Vic Harradine)

J. Lohr ‘Falcon’s Perch’ Pinot Noir 2012
Monterey County $24.95 (361717) 13.5% alcohol
Charred toast, exotic spice and dark berry fruit aromas herald a delectable river of sweet, ripe, dark fruit—mulberry, cherry and currant—interwoven with vanilla and earthy bits. It’s medium bodied with creamy-smooth texture and a long finish, fruit-filled and nicely balanced with each sip as good or better than the previous. (Vic Harradine)

Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Napa Valley $139.95 (936039) 13.9% alcohol
A perfumed bouquet of spice box, sandalwood and incense opens this well-structured, complex and balanced California Cab. The palate’s dominated by a tsunami wave of bramble berry preserve and black cherry garnished with spice, wisps of vanilla and toasty oak. It’s full bodied and fully textured with excellent acidity and a lingering finish layering on dark bittersweet chocolate and a supple tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Versado ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2010 

Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $60.95 (316984) 14.2% alcohol 

This is top-drawer red and worth every penny—it’s rich, elegant, complex and layered. Fashioned from low-yielding, ungrafted vines, hand picked, hand sorted, cold soaked, basket pressed, 14 months in new French oak, barrel selected then bottled unfiltered. Aromas and flavours abound with cracked pepper, piquant spice, black plum compote and black currant to the fore. It’s fully flavoured and fully textured with a lingering aftertaste. Drink now after a three-hour aeration/decant and on to 2022. (Vic Harradine) 

Chile: White Wine

Casa Del Bosque ‘Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Casablanca Valley $13.95 (974717) 13.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of grassy nettles and piquant spice set the table for a banquet of flavour—gooseberry, passion fruit and racy lemon garnished with menthol and savory herbs. This is medium bodied and nicely textured ending crisp, refreshing and well balanced. Pour alongside grilled calamari or pan-seared prawns. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Santa Rita ‘Medalla Real Gran Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Maipo Valley $17.95 (275594) 14.0% alcohol
Toasty notes and pipe tobacco aromas usher in a glorious splash of flavour—red currant and red cherry interlacing with mixed spice and dark coffee—bathing the plate, replaying on the fruity, balanced aftertaste. It’s medium bodied, well paced and well priced—pour alongside lasagna, pasta in tomato sauce or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Barossa Valley Estate ‘E & E Black Pepper’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $89.95 (731620) 14.5% alcohol
This is an iconic Barossa Shiraz found in the ‘Outstanding’ category in Langton’s Classification of Australia’s finest wines. This dishes up a deep, rich bouquet of exotic spice, cracked black pepper and black plum compote. Dense and rich with complexity and charm, a succulent flow of ripe mulberry and briary berry coat the palate mingling with dark chocolate and soft tannin. It finishes in a blaze of moderating acidity, balanced and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

Grant Burge ‘The Holy Trinity’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2011 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (236257) 14.5% alcohol 

Vintage after vintage, this hardly disappoints; it’s rich, balanced, nicely structured and heavenly perfumed with a tang-laden aftertaste. Aromas of briary berry and exotic spice meld with gamy notes presaging a balanced river of red and dark berry fruit, baking spice and black licorice. The finish is enveloped in racy acidity providing a crisp, dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine) 

Josef Chromy ‘Pepik’ Pinot Noir 2012
Tasmania $22.95 (162990) 13.5% alcohol
This is lovely cool-climate Pinot with aromas of savory herbs and red berry fruit to start. There’s good tang and purity of fruit showcasing sour cherry, red currant interlaced with ripe mulberry and spice on the palate and lingering, dry finish. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and good value. Give it a go with veal scallopini in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Penfolds ‘Bin 389’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2011
South Australia $44.95 (309625) 14.5% alcohol
This is a stunning, value-packed Aussie red found in the ‘Outstanding’ category in Langton’s Classification of Australia’s finest wines. Deep rich aromas of toasty oak and black currant supersede broad strokes of dark cherry and ripe mulberry cloaked in peppery spice, dark chocolate and soft tannin. It’s mid-plus weight and fully textured with lengthy finish, sense of purpose, and time on its side. Drink now after a three-hour aeration/decant, popping corks until 2026. (Vic Harradine)

Saltram ‘Mamre Brook’ Shiraz 2012
Barossa Valley, South Australia $27.95 (32227) 14.0% alcohol
The nose of dark berry fruit, black plum and mixed spice opens a tang-laden wash of sour cherry and pomegranate with peppery notes and notions of black licorice. It broadens out on the back palate and aftertaste weaving in riper dark cherry and wisps of toasty oak. It’s full bodied with firm texture and tannin on the long finish. Aerate/decant three-hours before serving with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Two Hands ‘Bella’s Garden’ Shiraz 2012
Barossa Valley, South Australia $63.95 (636407) 16.0% alcohol
Rich, dense and hedonistic, this jumps from the glass with heady aromas of cedar, piquant spice and black currant jam. It coats the palate with waves of teeth-staining flavour—ripe mulberry and black, juicy Bing cherry garnished with mocha, earthy notes and exotic spice. It’s a bruiser—full weight, full texture, perceptible tannin and high octane. It finishes with dark chocolate, toasted oak and loads of dark cherry/berry fruit. Aerate/decant three hours pouring now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Wynns ‘Coonawarra Estate’ Shiraz 2012 

Coonawarra, South Australia $22.95 (433060) 13.5% alcohol 

You’ll find this wine in the vaunted Langton’s Classification in the ‘Excellent’ category—only Australia’s finest wines make their way there. Rich and robust from the get go, it opens with heady aromas of dark berry fruit, black pepper and dark berry fruit. Intense and beautifully structured, palate-coating flavours of richly concentrated dark cherry, mint and ripe mulberry interlace with kirsch liqueur and wisps of minerality. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy-smooth mouth feel and a balanced, lingering finish—an affordable luxury. (Vic Harradine) 

New Zealand: Red Wine

Akarua Pinot Noir 2012
Bannockburn, Central Otago, South Island $37.95 (79541) 14.0% alcohol
Involved aromas of savory herbs, campfire smoke and red berry fruit abound. A delectable river of dried currant, briary berry and passion fruit bathe the palate garnished with mixed spice and savory roasted herbs. It’s balanced on a pin, mid-full bodied with excellent mouth feel and a lingering finish and aftertaste. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Wither Hills Pinot Noir 2011
Marlborough, South Island $29.95 (919829) 14.0% alcohol
It’s hard to beat the price-quality ratio on offer in this gorgeous Pinot. Generous aromas of exotic spice, sandalwood and cherry pie blossom from this mid-weight, complex and structured gem. Succulent, ripe, dark cherry, blueberry and red currant provide a balanced, stylish wash over the palate mingling with sweet vanilla and a smidgeon of soft tannin. The finish is long and it’s good to go now with smoked duck breasts or crispy pork belly. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

Winery of Good Hope ‘Vinum Africa’ Chenin Blanc 2012
WO Stellenbosch $15.95 (739995) 13.0% alcohol
Exotic spice and nutty notes on the nose open the door for a nicely balanced, well-textured flow of honeyed apricot and peach cloaked in a solid line of acidity and tang. It finishes crisp and refreshing looking for a pan of breaded, grilled freshwater fish or bouillabaisse. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château la Bourrée 2009 

AOC Côtes de Bordeaux, Castillon $17.95 (138800) 14.5% alcohol 

Roasted herbs, red berry fruit and dusty/earthy notes on the nose portend a racy line of red currant and sour cherry coursing across the palate, infusing the dry, lip-smacking finish. It’s mid weight with decent mouth feel and a solid lick of grainy tannin on the aftertaste. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine) 

Château Tour Bayard 2010
AOC Montagne-Saint-Émilion $23.95 (388348) 15.0% alcohol
There are savory herbs, dark berry fruit and earthy notes on the nose of this Bordeaux cellar-dweller. There’s also a nicely balanced flow of sweet ripe cherry and black currant coating the palate along with spice and still-evolving tannin. It’s mid weight with good texture and enough fruit, tannin and acidity to make patient cellaring quite worthwhile. Open 2016 – 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $89.95 (711317) 14.0% alcohol
High-end collectors, connoisseurs and folks like you and me will want a bottle or two, popping corks on a special occasion 2018 – 2020. Baking spice, dark berry fruit, black licorice and fennel aromas herald a structured, stylish river of sweet, succulent mulberry, briary berry and red currant interweaving with garrigue, wonderful tang and soft tannin. It’s full bodied and satin smooth with an impressive, majestic finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Château de Nages ‘JT’ Costiéres de Nîmes 2012
AOC Costiéres de Nîmes $24.95 (736876) 14.0% alcohol
Michel Gassier, one of the top producers in the southern Rhône Valley, fashioned this drink-me-now beauty from Grenache and a splash of Mourvèdre in the bourgeoning region of Costiéres de Nîmes. Espresso roast, Asian spice and dark berry fruit aromas abound. The palate’s coated with a full-bodied, creamy torrent of garrigue-infused red cherry and ripe mulberry interlaced with black licorice and gamy notes with wisps of campfire smoke. The finish lingers with cranberry and piquant spice. (Vic Harradine)

Domaine de Vieux Télégraphe ‘Télégramme’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $49.95 (292722) 14.0% alcohol
This is nicely balanced and deliciously tangy with mid-length finish and soft tannin underpinning. Savory local herbs, piquant spice and dark cherry/berry aromas waft easily from this mid-plus weight, Grenache-dominant red blend. It flows over the palate with nicely textured spice-infused black currant and sour cherry, flinty/slate notes and flecks of mixed spice and peppery bits. (Vic Harradine)

Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux ‘La Tour Sarrazine’ Gigondas 2012
AOC Gigondas $29.95 (279562) 14.6% alcohol
Grenache and Grenache-dominant blends often deliver hi-alcohol; low tannin, colour and acidity along with lots of spice. Dark cherry and sandalwood aromas on the nose, this rolls over the palate with black currant, ripe mulberry and piquant, savory spice and herbs. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a persistent finish and fine-grained tannin underpinning—delicious. Aerate/decant for an hour serving with stuffed, roasted pork tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

M. Chapoutier ‘Petite Ruche’ Crozes-Hermitage 2012
AOC Crozes-Hermitage $24.95 (264655) 13.0% alcohol
This is mid weight and tangy in a drink-me-now style. Aromas of roasted herbs, aromatic bitters and gamy notes spill from this Syrah from the N. Rhône. Sweet, ripe red berry fruit mingles with savory herbs and spice and loads of tangy acidity on the palate and persisting through the dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Perrin ‘L’Andéol’ Rasteau 2012
AOC Rasteau $19.95 (976845) 15.6% alcohol
Truffles, tobacco and rich, dark berry fruit aromas are harbingers of a medium-full bodied wash of ripe, red berry fruit, piquant spice and herbs infused with a streak of acidity. There are grainy tannins on the dry, mouth-watering finish. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with veal scallopini in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Santa Duc ‘Les Vieilles Vignes’ Côtes du Rhône 2009 

AOC Côtes du Rhône $14.95 (101543) 14.0% alcohol 

Deep ruby, this red blend offers aromas of dark berries, smoke and dried herbs. Dry, medium-full bodied, the rich, ripe fruit is front and centre, a touch of white pepper and sweet spice adding interest. There’s sufficient structure to balance the fruit and create a nice, dry, tangy finish. Serve with grilled burgers or meat casseroles. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: White Wine

Tramin Pinot Grigio 2013
DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige $17.95 (627059) 13.0% alcohol
Floral with hints of honeysuckle and citrus on the nose, this dishes up a fine line of lemon acidity coupled with peach and apple, clean crisp and refreshing. It’s light on its feet with good mouth feel and a mid-length, mouth-watering finish. Pour with prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Frescobaldi ‘Castello Di Pomino’ Pomino Bianco 2013
DOC Pomino Bianco $19.95 (65086) 13.0% alcohol
Consistently over-achieving and well-priced, it opens with aromas of crisp green apple minerality and spice. It’s a medium-bodied, well-textured, estate-grown blend—Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. This is brimming with fruit flavour and tang including spiced apple, tropical fruit—melon and grilled pineapple—and racy lemon citrus—lip-smacking and refreshing. (Vic Harradine) 

Italy Red Wine

Chiarieri ‘Vinum Hannibal Riserva’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2009
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $19.95 (710715) 14.5% alcohol
An involved, lifted nose of lilac, grilled herbs, fig and raisin aromas burst from the glass. Black plum compote, over-ripe dark cherry/berry fruit and kirsch liqueur caress the palate with notions of campfire smoke, black licorice and tar. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a dry, balanced, mid-length finish. Give it a go with meat-lovers pizza. (Vic Harradine)

La Vite ‘Lucente’ 2012
IGT Toscana $89.95 1500 mL (979062) 13.5% alcohol
This magnum-sized, perennial-favourite red blend—75% Merlot, 25% Sangiovese—delivers aromas of woodsy smoke, toasty oak, cassis and mocha along with a favourable price-quality proposition. A rich, dense and full-bore gusher of black currant and tang-laden, dark cherry interweave with espresso roast, dark chocolate, spice, local herbs and black licorice. It’s creamy smooth and stylish with a racy finish infused with supple tannin. Aerate/decant three hours or pop corks 2017-2022. (Vic Harradine)

Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico Riserva 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico $21.95 (930966) 14.0% alcohol
A quiet nose of mocha, earthy notes and tobacco drift from this mid-weight, creamy-smooth Sangiovese. It bathes the palate with red cherry and black plum laced with spice, herbs and hints of mocha and leather. Medium bodied with decent mouth feel, it finishes dry, balanced, fruity and tangy along with brush strokes of firm tannin. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with spaghetti Bolognese or osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)

San Felice ‘Il Grigio’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico $27.95 (716266) 14.0% alcohol
Mixed field berry and spice aromas interweave with floral notes and charred toast revealing a medium-weight, textured stream of rich dark berry fruit robed in a solid line of acidity and tang. It broadens out on the back palate and aftertaste with ripe mulberry and sweet vanilla. It’s good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

Tenuta ‘La Fuga’ Brunello Di Montalcino 2009
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $44.95 (212837) 15.0% alcohol
Brunello is the name for a Sangiovese-clone found in vineyards around the Tuscan village of Montalcino—highly regarded and priced accordingly. Toasty notes, dried berry fruit and cedar aromas are harbinger of a flood of dark berry fruit and red cherry tang mingling with gamy notes, piquant spice and herbs and notions of tobacco. This is mid-full weight with good mouth feel, excellent structure and purity of fruit—it finishes with oodles of red berry tang and charm. It’s good to pour now and on to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

Lena di Mezzo Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2010 

DOC Valpolicella $19.95 (165662) 14.0% alcohol 

Ruby purple, this classic blend showcases menthol, dried herbs, earth, smoke and red fruits. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s subtle underpinnings create a firm yet satiny texture, the lovely lush, ripe fruit paired with smoky toast, spice and a touch of licorice. The flavourful fruit and toasty notes persist on the lasting finish. Enjoy with grilled sausages or barbecued chicken with a zesty tomato sauce. (Susan Desjardins) 

Masi ‘Mazzano’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2007
DOC Valpolicella Classico $101.95 (215764) 16.0% alcohol
This single-vineyard, majestic, Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara blend is not for the faint of heart. Grilled herbs, dark cherry/berry fruit, pencil shavings and charred toast abound. It coats the palate with a dense, intense tsunami wave of ripe mulberry and dark juicy cherry garnished with savory herbs and wisps of black licorice and fig. This has it all—racy tang, structure, purity of fruit, surprising balance and a lengthy, dry, tang-laden aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: White Wine

Paco & Lola Albariño 2013
DO Rias Baixas $18.95 (350041) 12.5% alcohol
Honeyed, floral aromas abound on this top-drawer beauty from NE Spain. A crisp, refreshing wave of lemon-lime and white nectarine bathes the palate with flecks of minerality. It’s light on its feet with a great streak of tang extending through the mouth-watering finish. Great sipped on its own, it’s a go-to white for all manner of seafood. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Barahonda ‘sin Madera’ Monastrell 2011 

DO Yecla $15.95 (366823) 15.0% alcohol 

A brilliant ruby violet, this unoaked gem is bursting with aromas of ripe sweet berries and cherries, mingling with hints of pepper and mineral. Dry, medium bodied, it has a nice dry texture, tasty, concentrated fruit flavours and a long, warm, dry finish. Straightforward, fruity and balanced, it’s great value and will please any crowd. (Susan Desjardins)

Marqués de Murrieta ‘Finca Ygay Reserva’ 2008
DOCa Rioja $27.95 (209148) 14.0% alcohol
A glorious nose of exotic spice, sandalwood and baking spice aromas portend a rich, luscious river of cassis, briary berry and black licorice cascading over the palate, infusing the balanced and beautiful finish. This is mid-plus weight with good texture and a gentle finish showcasing soft tannin and moderating tang. (Vic Harradine)

Faustino ‘I Gran Reserva’ 2001
DOCa Rioja $35.95 (976662) 13.5% alcohol
This is surprisingly vibrant, given the age, dishing up a persistent line of youthful, crisp fruit and flavour. A subdued bouquet of spice, floral notes and leather open the door for a fresh and lively flow of red cherry and red currant interwoven with floral notes and red licorice. It’s medium bodied with a creamy-smooth mouth feel and lingering dry, fruity aftertaste. Pour on its own for a unique tasting experience. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Vintages Release: December 6, 2014

Lavau Rasteau 2012
AOC Rasteau $19.95 (394650) 14.5% alcohol
Dense and viscous, this Grenache-Syrah blend reflects the alcohol. A portion was barrel aged for 12 months. The nose showcases fresh ripe berries, notes of pepper, spice and garrigue. Ripe fruit rushes the palate with tasty notes of exotic spice and pepper carried on the bright clean texture. It’s dry, mid-plus bodied, generous and balanced, with supple tannin and acidity accenting the bright, lively berry fruit on the fresh, lengthy finish. Serve with cassoulet or chicken tagine. (Susan Desjardins)

Moris Morellino di Scansano 2012
DOCG Morellino di Scansano $ 19.95 (992560) 13.5% alcohol
Principally Sangiovese with a touch of Merlot and Syrah, this is unoaked and quite intense offering appealing cherry/berry and red licorice aromas with a touch of earth. Dry, medium bodied, the flavours replay aromas—ripe, sweet and full flavoured—supple tannin creates a slightly chalky texture. An approachable red with a pleasing, dry, spicy/savory finish, it’s a good match for antipasto or meat-based pasta with rich tomato sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Southbrook ‘organic - triomphe’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 (172338) 13.1 % alcohol
Orchard fruit aromas interweave with hazelnut and leesy notes on the nose of this mid-plus bodied beautifully textured Chardonnay. A persistent flow of ripe apple and pear mingle with lemony citrus, minerality and grapefruit pith on the palate and lingering tangy aftertaste. Good to go now with roast pork and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: March 7, 2015

Zuccardi ‘Serie A’ Bonarda 2012
Mendoza, Argentina $17.95 (355560) 13.5% alcohol
Spice, dried currant and cassis on the nose, this is rich, smooth and mellow throughout. A blanket of dark, ripe black berry, mulberry and dark, juicy cherry envelope the palate framed in excellent tangy acidity and über delicious flavour. It’s creamy smooth, mid-plus weight with a stunningly lengthy finish—balanced and beautiful, structured and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Catena Zapata ‘Catena’ Chardonnay 2013
Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (918805) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of tropical fruit, spice and floral notes introduce a creamy smooth, nicely textured wave of ripe apple, poached pear and white peach mingling with baking spice—balanced and beautiful. It’s medium weight with a dazzling finish of baked apple and lemon curd. Lovely sipped, it pours well with roast chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)

Domaine la Haute Févrie Sèvre-et-Maine sur Lie Muscadet 2013
AOC Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine sur Lie, France $13.95 (390625) 12.0% alcohol
Produced from hand-picked, old-vine fruit, this classic beauty offers enticing aromas of floral notes reminiscent of sweet woodruff, orchard fruit and lemon drop with an elusive saline character. Dry, a touch spritzy and light-mid weight, the texture’s silky and round. Tart and tangy, there’s loads of citrus fruit and pith dancing across the palate. The lengthy finish is clean and refreshing. Serve with fish and seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

Jardin en Fleurs Vouvray 2013
AOC Vouvray, France $18.95 (392050) 11.5% alcohol
Offering subtle aromas of clover, ripe orchard fruit, earth and honey, this lovely Chenin Blanc is light and lively on the palate, showcasing flavours of ripe pear, lemon curd and honey. Nicely balanced with a refined backbone of acidity, it displays a touch of residual sugar through the tasty finish. This is a good choice to sip on its own, to serve with light appetizers or pair with roast pork with apples. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Southbrook ‘organic and biodynamic - triomphe’ Cabernet Franc 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $21.95 (275958) 12.9 % alcohol
This is benchmark cool-climate Cab Franc with all the ripe fruit flavour, complexity and structure one could hope for. Aromas of mocha, wood smoke and dark berry fruit introduce a palate-bathing, balanced wash of rich, dark cherry, tangy black currant and dark bittersweet chocolate. It’s full flavoured and fully textured with a long finish that’s framed with sleek, moderating acidity and a supple tannin underpinning—this is quite special. (Vic Harradine)

The next three wines are Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores

Kaiken ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2011
Mendoza, Argentina $14.95 (58339) 14.5% alcohol
Asian spice, black currant and pipe tobacco precede a dense, rich wash of fruit-laden flavour with black cherry, mulberry and briary berry to the fore. There’s oodles of spice on the fruit-drenched finish and aftertaste. Pour this fruit bomb alongside grilled back ribs mopped in spicy barbecue sauce—a hedonistic experience and well priced. (Vic Harradine)

The Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio is $2.00 off the price shown until November 30, 2014

Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio 2013

DOC Valdadige, Italy $17.95 (106450) 12.5% alcohol 

This offers delicate aromas of lemon blossom and pit fruit. It bathes the palate with a lighter-styled wash of lemony tang and white grapefruit with flecks of pineapple and white peach, finishing clean, crisp and refreshing. Pour on its own or with seafood or lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

 
Southbrook ‘organic and biodynamic’ ‘triomphe’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $22.95 (193573) 12.9% alcohol
Showcasing good structure and purity of fruit; the price-quality balance tips well in your favour. Aromas of savory roasted herbs, baking spice and sandalwood introduce a cascading gusher of ripe fruit—mulberry, black currant and juicy dark cherry robed in espresso roast and black licorice. This is medium bodied, well balanced with generous texture, supple tannin and lengthy fruit-filled finish—yet another dazzling triomphe for winemaker, Ann Sperling. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

14 Hands ‘Hot to Trot White Blend’ 2011
Washington State $14.95 (280859) 13.0% alcohol
Honeysuckle, musk melon and buttery notes on the nose, it bursts on the palate with lemony tang, Granny Smith apple and notions of ripe melon and mango. Medium bodied, nicely textured and well balanced, it finishes wrapped in mouth-watering, lemony tang and hints of pear. Pour on its own or pair with chicken, veal or sea food—good value. (Vic Harradine)

Argento Chardonnay 2013
Mendoza, Argentina $9.95 (591701) 13.5% alcohol
There are ripe apple, crème brulée and citrus aromas on the nose preceding a racy river of tang-laden lemon-lime and white grapefruit. It’s light on its feet with flavours replaying on the persistent aftertaste. Pour alongside prawn ceviche or grilled calamari rings under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

The Boschendal Chardonnay earns 5 bonus AirMiles until November 29, 2014

Boschendal ‘1685’ Chardonnay 2012
WO Western Cape, South Africa $14.85 (367698) 14.0% alcohol
Pineapple and other tropical fruit aromas introduce a tang-laden river of lemon curd and tangy lime interlaced with passion fruit and crisp green apple. This is medium weight with very good mouth feel and crisp, clean, refreshing finish. Pour with fish or seafood under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

Montes ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 

DO Colchagua Valley, Chile $12.95 (157883) 14.0% alcohol 

Charred toast, aromatic bitters and dark berry fruit on the nose, this Cab Sauv/Merlot blend bursts on the palate with full-bore, magical flavours of bramble berry, black, juicy Bing cherry wreathed in dark chocolate. It’s medium bodied, well balanced, creamy smooth and absolutely delicious. The finish replays those wonderful palate flavours on the long, dry aftertaste. (Vic Harradine) 

Eco-friendly, the following two wines are the only VQA organic wines in LCBO listings. They use light-weight glass bottles produced in Ontario from recycled glass with labels designed and printed in Ontario.

 
Southbrook ‘Connect - Organic Red’ 2013
VQA Ontario $15.95 (249565) 11.8% alcohol
Baking spice and roasted herbs mingle with red berry fruit aromas. It’s fresh and lively on the palate with a tapestry of flavour—pomegranate, red cherry and strawberry interwoven with wisps of piquant spice and red licorice. This is light on its feet with a fine line of acidity and tangy red fruit throughout. The dry finish is mouth-watering and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

 
Southbrook ‘Connect - Organic White’ 2013
VQA Ontario $15.95 (248078) 9.9% alcohol
Honeysuckle and a salad bowl of tropical fruit aromas herald a well-balanced wash of tangy lemon-lime citrus and pineapple on the palate. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and clean, crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste—lip-smacking good. Pour with grilled or pan-seared freshwater fish—pickerel or trout—with a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

The Terre del Barolo is $4.00 off the price shown until November 30, 2014

Terre del Barolo ‘Barolo Vinum Vitae Est’ 2008
DOCG Barolo, Italy $27.15 (264333) 14.0% alcohol
Showing a little age on the brick-coloured edges, a bouquet of toasty oak, dark chocolate and ripe cherry dominates the nose on this nicely aging Nebbiolo. It bathes the palate with a wash of sour cherry, kirsch liqueur and wisps of pomegranate. Mid weight and nicely textured this showcases balance and grace with good purity of fruit. There’s a tangy line of acidity and soft tannin for structure. Pour with venison or elk, grilled rare. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

 

Purchase the following wine by the case for daily home, restaurant or office delivery from Château des Charmes.

 
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Cabernet-Merlot 2012
VQA Niagara-on –the-Lake $19.95 (222372) 13.0% alcohol
The price-quality ratio in this balanced, structured, delectable gem skews well in your favour. Dark berry fruit, cedar and mocha aromas portend a gorgeous river of cassis, juicy black cherry and bittersweet chocolate cascading over the palate with firm weight and creamy-smooth texture. It finishes dry, fruity and lip-smacking good—it took willpower to spit. (Vic Harradine)

 

Pick up the following three wines at the winery or order by the case for daily for home, office or restaurant delivery fromSouthbrookor by phoneat 1 888 581-1581

 
Southbrook ‘organic - triomphe’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 13.1 % alcohol
Orchard fruit aromas interweave with hazelnut and leesy notes on the nose of this mid-plus bodied beautifully textured Chardonnay. A persistent flow of ripe apple and pear mingle with lemony citrus, minerality and grapefruit pith on the palate and lingering tangy aftertaste. Good to go now with roast pork and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

 
Southbrook ‘organic and biodynamic - triomphe’ Merlot 2013
VQA Four Mile Creek $22.95 12.4 % alcohol
The quiet nose of pipe tobacco and savory herbs is precursor to a tang-laden river of red berry fruit—red currant, cranberry and sour cherry streaking across the palate underpinned by supple tannin. It’s mid weight and tangy with riper red fruit—strawberry and plum—infusing the finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with veal cutlets in tomato and basil sauce. (Vic Harradine)

 
Southbrook ‘organic and biodynamic - triomphe’ Cabernet Franc 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $21.95 (275958) 12.9 % alcohol
This is benchmark cool-climate Cab Franc with all the ripe fruit flavour, complexity and structure one could hope for. Aromas of mocha, wood smoke and dark berry fruit introduce a palate-bathing, balanced wash of rich, dark cherry, tangy black currant and dark bittersweet chocolate. It’s full flavoured and fully textured with a long finish that’s framed with sleek, moderating acidity and a supple tannin underpinning—this is quite special. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan