Winecurrent
September 10, 2014 Newsletter

Highlights include:

Special Feature – Susan Desjardins keeps you current with the evolution of BC’s Okanagan Valley. It happens with all premium wine regions. Susan researched and can now share the news with you. Read More…

  • Exceptional value wines Exceptional Value!  – only six of 70 wines meet the strict quality-price guidelines – only one over $17.95 with one at $13.95. All are identified by the Exceptional Value!  icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • Once in a lifetime! - Taylor Fladgate ‘Single Harvest Tawny’ Port 1863 @ $3995 offered only via Vintages online is reviewed as final wine in newsletter.
  • Finding Waldo – the king of wine and wine and kings, a dessert wine, very highly recommended.
  • Susan Selects – Cave Spring ‘Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay Musqué 2012 3 ½ stars @ $15.95; Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Merlot 2012 4 ½ stars @ $29.95; Tawse ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2011 4½ stars @ $31.95.
  • Vic Picks – Offley ‘10 Year Old’ Tawny Port 4 ½ stars @ $24.95; Vincent Couche ‘Brut’ Champagne 2002 4½ stars @ $49.95; Château Brandeau 2010 4 stars @ $16.95.
  • 5-star Wine – 3 wines rang the 5-star bell – Château des Charmes Icewine Vidal 2013 from Ontario; Royal Tokaji ‘5 Puttonyos’ Tokaji Aszú 2008 from Hungary and Dominio de Tares ‘Cepas Viejas’ Mencia 2009 from Spain.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. Always best to phone first.

 

Vintages Release: September 13, 2014

Mini-Feature: Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano

**** drink or cellar 
Carpineto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva 2008
DOCG Montepulciano $29.95 (368910) 13.5% alcohol
Gamey bits, red berry fruit and sharp spice aromas dance from this complex red. It showers a wash of red currant and sour cherry garnished with dark coffee and earthy notes bathing the palate, infusing the dry, tangy, mouth-watering finish. It’s medium bodied with decent mouth feel and a solid line of acidity throughout. Pour with ricotta gnocchi. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Two Glasses!
Castellani Filicheto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2010
DOCG Montepulciano $19.95 (184937) 13.5% alcohol
Susan and I were both taken with the structure and purity of fruit showcased in this wine. Involved aromas of savory spice, red and black currant, grilled herbs and pipe tobacco swirl from the glass. A rich, luscious stream of dark berry fruit, juicy black cherry and cassis coat the palate, balanced and beautiful. This offers great value along with good weight and texture and a lengthy luscious aftertaste. Pick up a few for drinking now to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

****1/2 drink or cellar
Offley ‘10 Year Old’ Tawny Port

DOC Douro $25.95 (297788) 20.0% alcohol

This is offley good Tawny Port—well priced and delicious. Aromas of spice cake and caramel herald a sweet, palate-coating stream of baking spice-laced nectar interweaving with espresso roast, treacle and nutty nuances that persist through the delectable aftertaste. Versatile at the table, pour with consommé, crème brulée, pecan pie or on its own, room temperature or slightly chilled. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Ramos Pinto ‘LBV’ Port 2009
Porto $24.95 (376301) 19.5% alcohol
Late Bottled Vintage Port is bottled after 4-6 years in barrel—Vintage Port is bottled after two, hence the ‘Late’—and, unlike Vintage Port, is ready to drink on purchase. This is infused with spice, delectably sweet and ready for sipping or pairing with aged hard cheese or chocolate dessert. Aromas of baking spice, dark berry fruit and charred toast herald a sweet river of briary berry and ripe mulberry garnished with mixed spice on the palate and balanced finish. Dare I say… yummy. (Vic Harradine)

Icewine

***** drink now  Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes Icewine Vidal 2013

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.95 (565861) 200 mL 9.0% alcohol

This is impressive from cork pop to last drop with alluring aromas of apricot, mango and spun sugar leading the parade. It coats the palate with a dazzling array of flavour—peel marmalade and apricot preserve interlaced with grilled pineapple and wisps of candied lemon peel. The moderating acidity provides balance and a lip-smacking, sweet and tang aftertaste. Sip on its own or pour with crème brulée—the perfect size for after-dinner, for two. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

****1/2 drink or cellar
Vincent Couche ‘Brut’ Champagne 2002
AOC Champagne $49.95 (387035) 12.5% alcohol
This possesses all the attributes that premium vintage Champagne can offer—a fabulous nose, great body, fully textured with a finish to die for and, it offers terrific value. A fabulous bouquet of butterscotch, leesy/nutty notes and wisps of toast precede a creamy smooth mouthful of green apple and pear with notions of lemon yoghurt and apricot. It’s balanced on a pin with oodles of flavour and lengthy aftertaste. Lovely on its own, it has the structure and complexity to pair with roast chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Peller Estates ‘Ice Cuvée’ Rosé

VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (113035) 12.0% alcohol

A lovely salmon pink, this versatile sparkler combines Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as the base wine with a dash of Cabernet Franc. It displays sweet, almost honeyed, red berry fruit on the nose. Just off-dry due to dosage with ice wine, it has a fine, light mousse and replays the lively berry flavours on the palate—think of sun-kissed, field-ripe strawberries and juicy, ripe currant. It’s refreshing with a hint of sweetness that lingers on the finish. This is bound to be a crowd-pleaser. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

***1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Cave Spring ‘Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay Musqué 2012

VQA Beamsville Bench $15.95 (246579) 14.0% alcohol

Displaying attractive aromas of honeydew melon, peach and honeysuckle, this rich, weighty wine is overflowing with ripe fruit flavours—pineapple, ripe apple, pear and a replay of melon—highlighted by a hint of spice. Quite luscious and delicious, it’s warm, ripe and sweetly fruity. Serve it well chilled with pan-fried white fish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Coffin Ridge ‘Bone Dry’ Riesling 2013
VQA Ontario $17.00 (232744) 11.9% alcohol
Produced from Beamsville Bench fruit, this wine meets the promise in its name, with fresh aromas of apple, stone fruit and citrus, a vibrant backbone of lively acidity and tangy flavours of lemon and green apple. It’s bright and refreshing through the lasting, clean finish. Enjoy with white fish, grilled chicken or light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  Oh Canada!
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (43281) 11.0% alcohol
Fabulous aromas of peach, nectarine, pear, lime and some mineral notes lift from the class of this just off-dry wine. It’s a masterpiece of balance, showcasing a beautifully crisp texture juxtaposed to round, well-ripened fruit flavours and that subtle mineral character. It’s juicy and flavourful to the last drop! Sip well chilled paired with soft cheeses on a warm autumn afternoon. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
13th Street Cabernet/Merlot 2012
VQA Creek Shores $19.95 (56598) 13.5% alcohol
Dense and inky, this blend offers lovely aromas of ripe dark fruit, earthy notes and hints of lavender and dried herbs. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s polished tannin and tangy texture harmonize with dark berry and plum. There’s depth and intensity here, spice and smoky toast complementing the fruit on the extended finish. Enjoy with grilled red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Angels Gate ‘Mountainview’ Merlot 2012
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.95 (299172) 14.0% alcohol
Opaque garnet in colour, a whiff of capsicum lifts from the glass, mingling with notes of herbs, red fruits and coffee. Dry, medium-full bodied, the juicy red and black berry/cherry flavours blend with notes of spice, cedar and a touch of toasty oak. It’s smooth and velvety, with a lasting finish. Serve with grilled vegetables and meats. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Merlot 2012

VQA St. David’s Bench $29.95 (453431) 13.5% alcohol 

Deep ruby, this wine shows lovely aromas of ripe black cherry and berry, plum, sweet spice, dried herbs and cedar. Dry, medium-full bodied with a lovely velvety texture, there’s great harmony here—polished tannins, fresh texture, earthy character and great depth of ripe fruit touched with notes of spice and dark chocolate. It finishes dry and long, and longs to be matched with roast rack of lamb or beef. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Lailey Vineyard Syrah 2012
VQA Niagara River $27.20 (184523) 13.5% alcohol
There’s great colour extraction in this wine, along with complex aromas of pepper, smoked meat, blackberry and herbs. Dry, medium-full bodied, the dash of cracked black pepper and smoky red peppers mingle with dark fruit flavours, spice and a touch of coffee. Subtly structured, juicy in texture the wine finishes smoky and peppery. Serve with roast beef. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Peller Estates ‘Private Reserve’ Cabernet Franc 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $21.95 (598078) 13.4% alcohol
Opaque ruby, this perfumed wine offers intricate notes of violets, dried flowers and herbs, roasted red pepper, spice and cherry/berry. Dry, medium-full bodied, the ripe, tangy fruit is underpinned by perceptible tannins and clean acidity. Crafted with finesse, velvety in texture, the wine tantalizes with notes of pepper, spice and toast through the dry, lasting finish. Pair with steak frites. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Southbrook ‘Triomphe’ Cabernet Franc 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $21.95 (275958) 12.9% alcohol
This is benchmark cool-climate Cab Franc with all the ripe fruit flavour, complexity and structure one could hope for. Aromas of mocha, wood smoke and dark berry fruit introduce a palate-bathing, balanced wash of rich, dark cherry, tangy black currant and dark bittersweet chocolate. It’s full flavoured and fully textured with a long finish that’s framed with sleek, moderating acidity and a supple tannin underpinning—this is quite special. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (130989) 13.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent garnet, this earthy wine offers lovely aromas of red fruits intertwined with notes of smoke, spice and herbs. Dry, on the light side of medium bodied, it’s silky, juicy and tangy, framed by lively acidity and subtle tannins, red fruits to the fore—raspberry, cranberry, currant—the earthy notes underlying. There a slight tang of white pepper on the finish. A great wine to serve with roast pork or duck confit. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2011
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $31.95 (130997) 13.5% alcohol
Subtle and sophisticated, the aromas of ripe red fruit shine through, a whiff of cedar brought forward by the 18-month oak aging, notes of spice and dried herbs adding to the heady bouquet. Dry, medium-full bodied, the texture is juicy and clean, the red and black berry flavours lively, earthy notes, roasted peppers and a replay of dried herbs adding complexity. Well-structured, with a long lasting finish, this wine will cellar well or may be served now with substantial meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Thirty Bench Red 2012
VQA Beamsville Bench $24.00 (320986) 13.4% alcohol
Produced from hand harvested fruit, the blend reliant on the Cabs, this inky wine showcases lovely black fruit accented with notes of leather, dried herbs and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s well integrated and velvety, tangy yet rich, with great intensity and depth of fruit and teasing notes of mocha and toasty oak through the lengthy finish. Enjoy with herbed roast leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Cuvaison Estate Chardonnay 2011
Carneros, Napa Valley $31.95 (988261) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of toast, smoke and nutty notes provide segue for a surge of lively flavour with tangy lemon and lime yoghurt mingling with crisp, green apple and ripe, juicy pear. This is mid-plus weight with good mouth feel and a balanced aftertaste showcasing ripe fruit and good acidity along with caramel and toasty oak on the aftertaste. Pour with roast turkey or breaded veal cutlets. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Irony Chardonnay 2011

Napa Valley $19.95 (027409) 14.5% alcohol

Alluring aromas of sweet vanilla, baking spice and hazelnut herald a rich and lovely wash of defined, complex flavours and texture—sweet pit fruit, tropical fruit and lemony tang mingle with wisps of caramel and mixed spice. It’s mid-full weight with a satin smooth mouth feel and lingering finish that’s fruity, nicely balanced, crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Kunde Chardonnay 2012
Sonoma Valley $21.95 (745406) 13.8% alcohol
Ripe apple, peach and wisps of citrus on the nose, this dishes up a crisp refreshing river of lemon-lime, Granny Smith apple and white grapefruit on the palate with replays on the mid-length finish. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with grapefruit pith on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cakebread Zinfandel 2011
Red Hills Lake County $43.95 (214031) 14.7% alcohol
Aromas of mocha, dark berry fruit and notions of earthiness set the table for a solid, well balanced, juicy and delicious wash of bramble berry pie, tangy red currant and dark chocolate on the palate persisting through the lengthy finish. It’s nicely structured with good complexity, good weight and creamy smooth. Serve with grilled ribs slathered in barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Napa Valley $59.95 (718452) 13.4% alcohol
This shows good structure and balance with complexity and intense fruit flavours. Exotic spice, sandalwood and red cherry aromas announce a fruit-forward, tangy tide of sour cherry, black berry and roasted herbs. Medium-full weight with silky texture, this finishes lengthy and luscious. Good to go now and on to 2025, pour with grilled strip loin and grilled, garlicked portobello. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Duckhorn Merlot 2011
Napa Valley $59.95 (992529) 14.5% alcohol
There are dark plum, charred toast and pipe tobacco aromas galore. It’s luscious, balanced and charming on the palate with a medium-full bodied, generously textured wash of sweet ripe mulberry nicely balanced with sour cherry and spice. It finishes long and luscious showcasing dark berry fruit and racy, mouth-watering tang. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Napa Valley $89.95 (189795) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of currant and plum mingle with earthy notes on the heady nose of this Napa Cab. Black currant, blueberry and cassis coat the palate persisting through the long, long finish and aftertaste. It’s full bodied and fully textured with great structure, complexity and charm. It’s all framed with good moderating acidity and underpinned by ripe, fine-grained tannin. Ready to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant, served with osso bucco or venison in a red-wine reduction sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
La Crema Pinot Noir 2012
Sonoma Coast $31.95 (719435) 13.5% alcohol
This is nicely structured with deft balance and a delicious, fruity palate and finish. Savory herbs, forest floor and red berry fruit aromas help unleash a palate-bathing river of flavour with ripe mulberry, dried black currant with wisps of sour cherry to the fore. This is mid weight with silky mouth feel and lengthy aftertaste of cherry cola and sweet vanilla garnished with toasty notes. Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Lake Sonoma Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $27.95 (380188) 14.5% alcohol
This Sonoma County Cab has a price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. It dishes up a delectable, balanced river of fruit with good structure, texture and charm. Aromas of earthy notes, baking spice and espresso roast provide segue for a smooth, mellow wash of briary berry and juicy black Bing cherry interlaced with spice and fennel. It’s mid-plus weight with good mouth feel and a lingering, luscious aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Rabbit Ridge ‘Estate Grown’ Zinfandel 2012
Paso Robles $24.95 (695072) 15.4% alcohol
Dark toast and black plum aromas provide segue for a sweet ripe gusher of bramble berry pie and kirsch liqueur mingling with spice and wisps of dried currants. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a long fruit-forward aftertaste. This is best poured with grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Toasted Head Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
North Coast $19.95 (686824) 13.5% alcohol
Earthy notes mingle with sweet vanilla and wood smoke on the nose while the palate’s treated to a rich, luscious river of ripe black berry fruit and cassis with good balance provided by red cherry tang. It’s mid weight with soft texture and a lengthy finish that’s full of fruit. This is nicely structured with complexity and charm. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink now
Alta Vista ‘Premium’ Estate Malbec 2012
Mendoza $14.95 (677443) 14.5% alcohol
Inky and opaque, the black fruit aromas are touched by notes of spice and an elusive, earthy stone dust element. Aged 12 months in French oak, the wine is dry, medium-full bodied and well structured with perceptible tannins and a fresh texture. The black fruit and spice replays on the palate mingling with traces of toasty oak. It finishes long and dry, and offers excellent value. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Chakana ‘Yaguarete Collection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Mendoza $ 13.95 (663161) 14.5% alcohol
Ripe aromas of black currant, spice, toast and licorice lift from the glass of this appealing, full-bodied varietal wine. It offers a warm welcome, round mouth feel, soft tannins and generous ripe fruit accented by spice and tasty notes of mocha. A crowd-pleaser with a pleasantly dry finish, it’s made for barbequed meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink now
Montes ‘Alpha’ Pinot Noir 2012
DO Aconcagua Coast $19.95 (143214) 14.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this medium bodied wine offers lovely ripe aromas of red fruit, vanilla and sweet spices. Dry, with a silky smooth texture, it deftly balanced fruit, acidity and soft tannins and offers the warmth of spices and white pepper with a notion of earth and herbs. The finish is tasty and lasting. A wine to sip and savour, or to enjoy with grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (730374) 14.8% alcohol
Heady, involved aromas of dark plum, black licorice, tar and bramble berry pour from this medium-plus weight, generously textured gem. Dense waves of black juicy cherry and sweet ripe mulberry coat the palate adorned with vanilla and mocha balanced with tang-laden red berry fruit. The purity of fruit persists through the lengthy luscious finish. This is balanced, well constructed and brimming very good value. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Wits End ‘Luna’ Shiraz 2012
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (311258) 15.0% alcohol
Savory herbs, mocha and dark berry fruit aromas announce a torrent of black currant, spice and notions of black pepper prior to tangy sour cherry arriving to provide balance. It’s mid-full bodied with satin-smooth mouth feel and a lingering finish and aftertaste layering on bittersweet chocolate and soft, fine-grained tannin. With each sip better than the previous, savour this on its own or pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Auntsfield ‘Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Southern Valleys, Marlborough, South Island $20.95 (663286) 13.0% alcohol
Herbaceous notes, nettles and gooseberry aromas pour from this über-tangy Kiwi. Racy lemon, lime cordial and pineapple streak across the palate garnished with passion fruit. It’s medium bodied with good texture and finishes in a lip-smacking blaze with added smoky notes and palate-flavours replayed with gusto. Good value offered here. (Vic harradine)

**** drink now
Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (735043) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of minerality, savory herbs and piquant spice herald a light-medium bodied wash with oodles of tang—racy lime, tang-laden lemon zest interlace with sharp spicy notes—on the palate. It finishes dry, crisp and refreshing. Pour with arugula salad under olive oil and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Carrick Pinot Noir 2011
Central Otago, South Island $38.95 (919837) 14.5% alcohol
From arguably the premium Pinot Noir appellation in NZ, this classic, classy Pinot from Central Otago dazzles the senses. It’s savory, rich, balanced and structured. Toasty notes, savory herbs and spice aromas herald a gusher of spice-infused ambrosia with red cherry and strawberry interweaving with roasted herbs. It’s full flavoured and fully textured with a long, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste, and it’s drinking well now. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

**** drink now
Stellenrust ‘Wild Yeast Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2011
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (382218) 13.0% alcohol
The charred campfire smoke on the nose leads the way to ripe, sweet, palate-bathing flavours of apple, pear and notions of caramel and toasty oak. It’s good weight and nicely textured with balance and structure throughout. It finishes with fruit and moderating acidity setting it up for a delightful pairing with roast chicken or pulled pork. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

**** drink now
Bellingham ‘Ancient Earth’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
WO Coastal Region $14.95 (382093) 14.0% alcohol
Dark and brooding, the aromas of this wine are of black fruit, exotic spice and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s all about the fruit—cassis, blackberry and black plum—and a notion of underlying oak. The tannins are ripe, the texture tangy and sweet spicy notes linger on the mid-length finish. A tasty wine to serve with barbequed meats. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

**** drink now
André Blanck & ses Fils ‘Clos Schwendi’ Pinot Gris 2013
AOC Alsace $19.95 (686311) 13.5% alcohol
Orchard fruit, melon and hints of spice drift from the glass of this off-dry wine. Lively, almost spritzy acidity is paired with flavours of lemon-lime, pear and apple. Round and smooth in texture, it lingers on the finish, long and lush. Serve with roast pork with apples. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Chevallier Chablis 2012
AOC Chablis $19.95 (112227) 12.5% alcohol
This is clean, crisp and mouth-watering throughout sending a laser-like beam of acidity streaking across the palate—well delineated and tangy. It’s mid weight with oodles of nerve and verve via minerality, racy lemon citrus and Key lime joined by ripe apple and pear on the lip-smacking finish—terrific price as Chablis goes. Pour with freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Mallory & Benjamin Talmard Mâcon-Uchizy 2012
AOC Mâcon-Uchizy $16.95 (733956) 13.0% alcohol
This classic wine of southern Burgundy combines stone and orchard fruit aromas with the scent of sweet woodruff and smoke. Dry, medium bodied, it’s ripe round texture is perfectly matched to a fine seam of acidity. Flavours of apple and lemon-lime dance on the palate, garnished with a touch of toasted nut. Well balanced and absolutely lovely, it’s a match for lemon roast chicken or your choice of seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Gabriel Meffre Laurus Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2012
AOP Côtes du Rhône $18.95 (376574) 13.5% alcohol
This is nicely balanced blend of Roussanne, Viognier and Grenache Blanc. Spice and tropical fruit aromas herald a medium-bodied creamy-smooth surge of ripe white peach, pear and yellow plum. The lively finish layers on tangy citrus and notions of pineapple. Pairs and pours well alongside grilled chicken Caesar salad. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Château Brandeau 2010

AOC Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux $16.95 (351973) 14.0% alcohol

Aromas of sandalwood, smoky notes and roasted red peppers interlace with mixed field berry fruit on the nose. It’s medium bodied with smooth texture bursting with red and black berry fruit, cassis and mocha on the palate replaying on the mid-length aftertaste. This pairs well with grilled lamb chops and offers good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château Cissac 2010
AOC Haut-Médoc $29.95 (324665) 13.5% alcohol
This Cru Bourgeois delivers a heady nose of black currant, sandalwood and pencil shaving. Palate-bathing black cherry and ripe mulberry mingle with baking spice and tobacco on the palate extending through the finish and aftertaste. It’s mid weight with good texture, balance and charm. Pour with roast lamb or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Château de la Grave Caractère 2010
AOC Côtes de Bourg $17.95 (224683) 13.0% alcohol
Principally Merlot, this wine is well-named, displaying great substance and character. Earthy, mushroomy notes mingle with black fruits and herbs. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s smooth and impactful with great depth of fruit framed by velvety yet perceptible tannin. Notes of spice and smoky toast add interest and complexity to the tasting experience. An age-worthy wine, you may wish to purchase several bottles and try one now with lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Saintem 2009
AOC St-Émilion Grand Cru Classé $33.95 (369397) 14.5% alcohol
Given the vintage and the quality-price ratio that’s skewed well in your favour, Bordeaux lovers should place a few bottles in the cart. Aromas of dark berry fruit and mocha herald a well-delineated, structured and complex wash of ripe fruit—cherry and plum—mingling with espresso roast and sweet vanilla. It’s mid-plus bodied with creamy smooth mouth feel and a lengthy finish that’s tangy and just plain delicious. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château Saint-Estève Corbières 2011
AOP Corbières $17.95 (377218) 13.5% alcohol
Wood smoke and cherry/berry fruit aromas precede a rich, fruit-forward river of bramble berry pie and dark juicy cherry robed in charred toast and espresso roast. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a bit of a bitter bite on the mid-length aftertaste. Pour with grilled ribs mopped in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Grandy Vacqueyras 2012
AOC Vacqueyras $19.95 (287532) 13.5% alcohol
This Grenache-dominant blend dishes up a lively nose of grilled herbs, piquant spice and black berry fruit. A smooth mellow wash of spice-infused red cherry and plum streaks across the palate, tangy and mouth-watering. It’s medium full bodied with generous texture and dry, lip-smacking finish. This pours well alongside manicotti with spicy Italian-sausage filling, garnished with cheese/tomato sauce—good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Manus Dei Du Château Sixtine Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2011
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $39.95 (719120) 15.0% alcohol
Dark toast, mocha, garrigue—local wild herbs—and spice on the nose, this dishes up rich, dark fruit galore on the palate with mulberry, cherry and dried currant to the fore. Mid weight with good texture, it delivers a solid line of good acidity and a soft tannin underpinning. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Romain Duvernay Côtes-du-Rhône 2012
AOP Côtes-du-Rhône $15.95 (380659) 14.0% alcohol
This is terrific value with excellent fruit flavour, good texture and lingering aftertaste. Lively aromas of red cherry, spice and sandalwood introduce a lovely mouthful of dark cherry and cassis with a medium-weight satin-smooth mouth feel. The long finish showcases notions of black plum compote and kirsch liqueur. Serve with the grilled red meat you pull off your barbecue. (Vic Harradine)

Hungary: Dessert Wine

***** drink or cellar
Royal Tokaji ‘5 Puttonyos’ Tokaji Aszú 2008
Hungary $23.95 (972836) 250mL 11.5% alcohol
According to urban legend, this was dubbed, ‘The king of wine and wine of kings’, by Louis XV; it’s no urban legend that this is one of the world’s more affordable luxuries. Aromas of apricot, marmalade and spice set the stage for luxurious sweet-tinged wave of peel marmalade, grilled pineapple and spice-infused apricot that’s kept in check from being cloying by wonderful moderating acidity. It finishes balanced and beautiful. Divine on its own, you can pour with crème brulée or fruit flan. Very highly recommended. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Monte Tabor ‘San Raffaele’ Pinot Grigio 2013
IGT Venezie $ 14.95 (204768) 12.5% alcohol
This organic wine makes its presence known with lovely floral and fruit aromas—melon and pear to the fore. Dry, light-medium bodied and a touch spritzy, the pear flavours shine through, lifted by hints of tangerine, lime and a whiff of spice. Very pleasing and easy drinking, a wine to be enjoyed on its own, with light appetizers or white fish. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Cantine Ferri Oblivio Nero Di Troia 2008
IGT Puglia $19.95 (380600) 14.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of sharp spice, berry fruit and tobacco leaf jump from this tang-laden red. It’s chockfull of sour cherry and cranberry interlaced with spice. Mid weight and nicely textured, it finishes in a blaze of red cherry/berry interlaced with gamey notes and notions of mint on the finish. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or pizza. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Le Volte Dell’Ornellaia 2012
IGT Toscana $29.95 (964221) 13.5% alcohol
Ripe cherry, dark toast and leather aromas on the nose, this delivers a nicely balanced wash of sweet and tang by way of red cherry and red currant balanced nicely with sweet, ripe mulberry adorned with loads of spice and wisps of vanilla. It’s mid-plus weight with good texture and a lengthy finish that layers on a supple tannin underpinning. The tannin’s easily ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Piccini Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
DOCG Chianto Classico $19.95 (134791) 13.0% alcohol
Espresso roast, savory herbs and sharp spice aromas mingle with black plum providing segue to a racy Riserva. A rich river of red and black fruit interweaves with spice and mocha with good replays on the finish. It’s medium bodied with grippy tannin appearing on the aftertaste—aerate/decant for three hours to handle them then pour with pasta in tomato sauce or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Villa I Cipressi Brunello Di Montalcino 2007
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $51.95 (214619) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of dark chocolate, toasty oak, floral notes and baking spice open the door for swirling waves of lip-smacking tang—sour cherry, red currant and wisps of cranberry. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a dry finish that introduces a solid tannin streak. Pop corks 2016-2022 or now after a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Masi ‘Brolo Campofiorin Oro Appaxximento’ 2009

IGT Rosso del Veronese $26.95 (976092) 14.0% alcohol

One of a handful of wine producers in the world that guarantee well made wine when their name’s on the bottle. This smooth and complex blend—Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara—dishes up an array of aromas and flavours. It delivers briary berry, bittersweet chocolate and sweet, black, cherry among them. It’s mid-weight with good texture and a lingering, luscious finish with dark coffee and a tell-tale bite on the aftertaste. Pour with steak tartare. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quintarelli Primofiore 2009
IGT Veneto $59.95 (20867) 14.0% alcohol
From the former doyen of Amarone, comes a wine from this famed producer you can drink now while you’re contemplating a three or four hundred dollar purchase for a bottle of his Amarone. Floral, peppery spice, tobacco and mixed field berry on the nose this shifts into gear on the palate with a rush of sweet and tang—red and black currant, red and black cherry—replaying on the finish with nerve and verve. There’s complexity, balance and structure; it finishes dry with spice and earthy notes. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Remo Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2010
DOCG Valpolicella Classico $37.95 (995910) 15.0% alcohol
This is tangy and racy with good ripe fruit framed by moderating acidity. Well priced, as Amarones go, this offers aromas of black plum, baking spice, campfire smoke and aromatic bitters. Palate-bathing flavours of sweet ripe cherry and tangy black currant mingle with spice and mocha replaying on the finish and aftertaste. Pours exceptionally well with hearty fare—venison, osso bucco or rognons de veau in red-wine reduction sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Pegos Claros 2010
DOC Palmela $14.95 (385252) 14.0% alcohol
Pick up a few at this wonderful price, serving with grilled red meat—steaks, chops, roasts or burgers. It’s steeped in tradition—hand picked, foot trodden and fermented in open cement lagars from 40-year-old vines of the indigenous grape, Castelão. Lively aromas of baking spice—brief oak ageing—and field berries lead to a firm, delectable wash of red and black cherry and currant mingling with flecks of minerality, mint and spice. It’s medium-plus weight with creamy mouth feel and a lick of soft, fine-grained tannin on the finish—aerate/decant a couple of hours. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta Da Ponte Pedrinha 2012
DOC Dão $16.95 (219188) 13.5% alcohol
Blueberry, violets and wisps of espresso roast herald a tang-laden river of red plum and cranberry interweaving with notions of ripe mulberry. It’s medium bodied with good weight and structure. The finish is dry and racy. Serve alongside prawn, tomato and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Quinta De Pancas Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Vinho Regional Lisboa $18.95 (380568) 13.5% alcohol
Ripe berry fruit, dark coffee and tobacco aromas are precursor to a balanced river of sweet and tang—the yin and yang that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine. Ripe black currant and black Bing cherry interlace with red plum and sour cherry on the mid-full bodied, silky-smooth wash over the palate. It’s dry and mouth-watering crisp on the finish. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

*****drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Dominio de Tares ‘Cepas Viejas’ Mencia 2009
DO Bierzo $29.95 (279891) 14.5% alcohol
Subtle aromas cherry, berry, leather, meaty notes, spice and vanilla tantalize the nose and offer a well-rehearsed intro to the velvety, round texture of this captivating old-vines wine. Dry, combining finesse and power, it showcases great intensity and depth of fruit, a well-defined, refined structure, and the complexity of French and American barrel aging. The dry finish offers warmth and great length. Just fabulous, you’ll enjoy tasting this wine before a dinner built around rare grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
La Rioja Alta ‘Viña Ardanza Reserva’ 2004
DOCa Rioja $39.95 (315531) 13.5% alcohol
This is showing its age with a brick-orange rim, but there’s plenty of life in this. There are prune, dark plum and wisps of raisin on the nose heralding a mellow, smooth tide of ripe blueberry and black currant interwoven with tangy sour cherry; it’s all balanced and beautiful. The lengthy delectable aftertaste layers on notions of mint and mocha. Give it a go with grilled rack of lamb with shitake and creamy orzo. (Vic Harradine)

 

**** drink or cellar
Luzón ‘Selección 12 Meses’ Crianza 2008

DO Jumilla $17.95 (310219) 14.5% alcohol

Aged in French and American oak, this blend of Monastrell, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot has a smoky, earthy, cherry/berry nose. Dry, medium-full bodied, the flavours are of balsamic, black cherry and berry, spice and earth. Smooth in texture with ripe tannins, it’s fresh and sweetly fruity through the lasting finish. Enjoy now or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Miguel Torres ‘Ibéricos’ Crianza 2011
DO Rioja $16.95 (381046) 14.0% alcohol
Aged 12 months in oak, this young Tempranillo offers aromas of red fruit harmonizing with spice and earth. Dry, medium bodied, it’s well balanced, supple tannins and fine acidity paired with bright red and black fruit and sweet spice. Tasty, with a lasting tangy finish, it will complement braised chicken with olives. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Muruve ‘Crianza’ 2010
DO Toro $17.95 (67546) 15.5% alcohol
Rich aromas of plum and aromatic bitters introduce a luscious river of cassis, dark berry fruit and chocolate garnished with spice and toasty bits from the American and French oak-barrel ageing. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a warm, mid-length finish of espresso roast and bright red cherries. Pour alongside burgers, pepperoni pizza or beef fajitas—a crowd-pleasing red that’s balanced and delicious. (Vic Harradine)

• Available only via Vintages Online, not available in LCBO stores

Taylor Fladgate ‘Single Harvest Tawny’ Port 1863
DOC Douro $3995 (398065) Crystal Decanter 21% alcohol
The vines producing this elixir were pre-phylloxera, the fruit’s from a great vintage and the wine spent 150-years in barrel. To give historical perspective, the most famous battle of the American Civil War, The Battle of Gettysburg, was fought in 1863. This was a special honour to view, nose and taste—it’s green tinged on the rim with a body of dark mahogany. A surge of involved aromas dazzle the senses with dried fruit, molasses, iodine and vanilla mingling with Christmas cake spice, spun sugar, camphor and fig. It coats the palate with a stunning, complex array of treacle, peppery notes, cloves, prune, and peel marmalade that are tinged with sweetness. It’s creamy smooth with a monumentally long, indescribably delectable aftertaste. Learn more (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan