Winecurrent
August 30, 2014 Newsletter

Highlights include:

  • Exceptional value wines Exceptional Value!  – seven of 40 wines meet the strict quality-price guidelines – all under $18. with two at $12.95 and three at $13.95. All are identified by the Exceptional Value!  icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • Finding Waldo – ALL profits go to needy kids, it’s a Chardonnay/Riesling blend, it’s local and lo-cal at only 70 calories per five-ounce serve.
  • Susan Selects – from a great vintage Oh Canada! Château des Charmes ‘Old Vines’ Pinot Noir 2010 under Niagara Peninsula: Red Wine - 4 stars @ $19.95.
  • Vic Picks – a limited production Oh Canada! Cattail Creek ‘Small Lot Series’ Cabernet Franc 2012 found under New in LCBO (select stores only) and New in Ontario Wineries – 4½ stars @ $29.95.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. Always best to phone first.

Using the winery name link in the New in Ontario Wineries section, allows you to order for home, office or restaurant delivery subject to each winery’s shipping procedure.

Using the link or contact details for agents under Private Order or Consignment Wine, allows you to order for home, office, restaurant delivery subject to agent’s shipping procedure.

Feature: Top-Scoring wines

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Blue Mountain Chardonnay 2012
Okanagan Valley, Canada $23.95 (350108) 13.5% alcohol
Renowned for their sparkling wine and Pinot Noir, this will turn a few heads, as well—it’s quite focused, balanced and beautiful with great sense of purpose; dishing up aromas of honey dew melon and lemon curd. It’s medium weight with good texture and balance. A luscious river of butterscotch, apple-pie filling and racy lemon-lime caress the palate with wisps of mineral notes, apricot and mango on the lengthy finish. Pour alongside pan-seared scallops. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Napa Valley, U.S.A. $79.95 (642124) 14.5% alcohol
Heitz is an iconic Napa Valley winery, the first to list a single vineyard—Martha’s Vineyard—on a Napa wine label, now producing great wine at all price points. The involved, lifted nose of dark berry fruit, pipe tobacco and mocha sends a concentrated wave of bramble berry, cassis, sweet vanilla and roasted herbs cruising across the palate. It’s full bodied and fully textured showcasing balance, purity of fruit, structure and a lingering aftertaste. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Santa Carolina ‘Reserva de Familia’ Carmenère 2010

Rapel Valley, Chile $19.95 (034942) 14.5% alcohol

There’s a lot to like here—complexity, flavour, balance and charm. Herbs, spice, toasty oak and dark berry fruit aromas provide segue for a complex, robust river of bramble berry and black plum delivered with good weight and texture. The balanced, beautiful finish and aftertaste layers on notions of cherry trifle, bittersweet chocolate and fennel. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds ‘Bin 128’ Shiraz 2012
Coonawarra, South Australia $34.95 (509919) 14.5% alcohol
This is a gorgeous expression of Penfolds’ vaunted Bin 128. Polished and profound, it delivers in spades—purity of fruit, balance, structure and charm. Aromas of dark cherry, baking spice, floral notes and tobacco morph into a mid-plus-weighted, creamy-smooth wash of ripe mulberry and cassis garnished with notions of earthy notes and cedar. Flavours persist through the lingering finish and aftertaste. Pop corks now to 2024. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Doolhof ‘Dark Lady of the Labyrinth - Dark Delight’ Pinotage 2011
WO Wellington, South Africa $19.95 (376889) 13.5% alcohol
Smoky oak and dark berry fruit interweave with mocha aromas heralding a medium-bodied wash dancing over the palate with dark cherry and red currant joined by mocha on the back palate and mid-length finish. This has good mouth feel with very good balance—a fine stream of tang throughout—while the aftertaste layers on generous portions of roasted herbs and dark coffee. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Xavier Côtes-du-Rhône 2010
AOP Côtes-du-Rhône, France $16.95 (297317) 14.5% alcohol
Rich ripe aromas of dark cherry and black currant jump from the glass. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and oodles of charm. Ripe red and black cherry interweave with good fresh acidity and a lingering balanced finish laced with earthy notes and roasted herbs. Give it a go with grilled lamb chops and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine des Amouriers ‘Signature’ Vacqueyras 2011
AOC Vacqueyras, France $24.95 (381038) 14.5% alcohol
This Grenache/Syrah-dominant red blend is light on its feet with a delightful yin and yang of sweet and tang throughout. Aromas of charred toast and gunflint/slate interlace with piquant spice and berry fruit on the nose. It’s light-medium weight with purity of fruit and great balance—sour cherry and red currant meet their match with a flow of sweet ripe mulberry and briary berry. There’s good mouth feel and oodles of charm and the long balanced aftertaste delivers more of the same. Good to go now to 2020 alongside slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Brancaia Tre 2011

IGT Toscana, Italy $23.95 (164715) 13.5% alcohol

Here’s an intriguing wine blending Merlot and Cabernet with the main event, Sangiovese, the grapes sourced from the Maremma and Chianti Classico. Earthy, smoky notes combine with spiced red rose, herbs and red fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine is nicely balanced, subtly structured, offering the complexity of red fruit flavours, smoky toast, roasted herbs and an elusive mineral quality. Long and dry on the finish, it’s a versatile wine for lighter meats or spinach and cheese cannelloni. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Monte Del Frá Lena Di Mezzo Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2009
DOC Valpolicella Classico, Italy $54.95 (47506) 15.0% alcohol
As Amarone prices go, this is fair value. Aromatic bitters, Christmas-cake spice and roasted herbs set the table for a feast of flavour. A sweet tsunami wave of ripe mulberry, kirsch liqueur, black plum compote and espresso roast coats the palate. It’s beautifully textured with good weight and a long, dry, spicy finish that’s balanced and beautiful, garnished with soft tannin and notions of black licorice. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Castaño Solanera Viñas Viejas 2012
DOC Yecla, Spain $17.00 (276162) 14.5% alcohol
Floral notes, piquant spice and graphite aromas swirl from the nose interlaced with mixed field berry fruit. A tang-laden wash streaks across the palate riding a racy river of sour cherry and red currant that’s persistent through the dry, zesty finish and aftertaste. The dry finish is lip-smacking tangy. Pair with roasted tomato-, rice- and meat-stuffed bell peppers. (Vic Harradine)

Mini-Feature: U.S. Northwest

***1/2 drink now
Elk Cove Pinot Gris 2013
Willamette Valley, Oregon $24.95 (955906) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a light-on-its-feet white that’s brimming with nerve and verve and mouth-watering freshness. There’s buckwheat honey and orchard fruit on the nose followed by a solid line of tang across the palate infusing the dry, zippy aftertaste—Meyer lemon, Key lime pie and crisp green apple galore. Pour with prawn ceviche or freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir 2012
Oregon $23.95 (229781) 13.5% alcohol
Red cherry/berry fruit mingles with beet root and spice on the involved nose. On the palate it’s tang laden with sour cherry, cranberry and mixed spice leading the parade. There’s riper raspberry and black plum on the finish as it comes together in a mouth-watering refreshing aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Columbia Winery ‘Composition - Red Blend’ Non-Vintage
Columbia Valley, Washington State $19.95 (385799) 13.3% alcohol
This is a rare non-vintage table wine, with the bulk of it from the 2011 vintage. Pioneers in the Washington State wine scene, this winery was founded over 50-years ago. Aromas of red cherry and berry fruit introduce a sweet wash of ripe black fruit—cherry, currant and plum. Flavours persist through the balanced finish with notions of red currant and red cherry adding balance and mouth-watering tang to the aftertaste. The blend is 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Syrah, 12% Merlot, 9% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot, 4% other… whew. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Champagne

****1/2 drink now
Heidsieck & Co. ‘Monopole Blue Top’ Brut Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne, France $49.95 (068288) 12.0% alcohol

The price-quality balance tips well in your favour—as Champagne prices go, it’s good value. Alluring aromas of sandalwood, smoke and baking brioche introduce a racy, lively explosion of bubbles with lemon-lime, green apple to the fore along with wisps of red licorice. There’s good mouth feel and good weight—70% Pinot Noir in the blend—allowing it to be easily paired with main dishes. It’s crisp and zingy throughout with a mouth-watering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Graham Beck ‘Brut’ Rosé Non-Vintage

WO Western Cape, South Africa $20.95 (175588) 12.0% alcohol

This opens with fragrant aromas—strawberry, watermelon and wisps of raspberry—and plenty of mousse a.k.a. froth or bubbles that form when poured. It’s a delight on the palate with lively flavours of red cherry and red berry fruit persisting throughout. It finishes in a blaze of crisp, lip-smacking freshness. Wonderful on its own as an aperitif or party starter, it has the oomph to stand alongside most appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Niagara Peninsula: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes ‘Old Vines’ Pinot Noir 2010

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.95 (256834) 13.0% alcohol

Garnet hued, this Pinot Noir offers lovely earthy, flowery aromas melding with ripe red fruit, and a whiff of exotic spice. Dry, medium bodied, complex, the bright red cherry, berry and currant flavours, beetroot and notions of white pepper are framed by lively acidity and perceptible tannin. The finish is dry, lengthy with a touch of coffee bean lingering. This is a wine with structure and impact that will hold its own with full-flavoured meat, pasta dishes, or cellar further. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
St. Francis Chardonnay 2012
Sonoma County $20.95 (317131) 14.2% alcohol
There’s good flavour in this medium-plus bodied, fully textured Chardonnay. A salad bowl of tropical fruit and lemony citrus precede a rich, luscious flow of poached pear and apple crumble garnished with a serving of tangy lemon yoghurt. It finishes in a blaze of mouth-watering pizzazz—crisp Granny Smith apple and blood orange. Pair with grilled freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ravenswood ‘Lodi Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2011
Lodi $19.95 (942599) 14.5% alcohol
Showing considerable restraint given its luscious fruit and flavour, this offers fresh acidity, a soft tannin underpinning and a hedonistic, still balanced, finish and aftertaste—how good is that? Ravenswood is one of the iconic wineries of the ‘Three R’s of Zinfandel’, along with Ridge and Rosenblum. Ripe red fruit bathes the plate with cherry and currant to the fore along with wisps of kirsch liqueur. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy mouth feel and lengthy lip-smacking finish—good value here. Seeking grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Barossa Valley Estate ‘E Minor’ Shiraz 2010

Barossa Valley $17.95 (295907) 14.5% alcohol

Classic Shiraz from a reputable and reliable producer equals great wine! Savour the high-toned aromas of black berry, kirsch, smoke, crushed pepper and sweet spice. Dry, full bodied, it offers a rush of intense, concentrated dark fruit and black pepper, along with a subtle earthy quality and notes of char. This is a big, powerful, well-balanced Shiraz that’s well structured with a lasting fruit-filled finish. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: White Wine

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Simonsig Chenin Blanc 2013

WO Stellenbosch $12.95 (981167) 13.5% alcohol

Golden-hued and richly fruity, the lifted aromas include floral notes, stone and tropical fruit with a whiff of spice. Dry, yet fruit forward, it has a fine creamy texture, partly as a result of time on the lees, and sufficient acidity to balance the fruit basket on the palate—peach, pear, pineapple, kiwi. On the finish, the fruit is emphasized by a touch of residual sugar. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Boekenhoutskloof ‘Porcupine Ridge’ Syrah/Viognier 2012
WO Swartland $16.95 (79442) 14.0% alcohol
Swartland, with its remote arid landscape, is an appellation gaining high recognition. Deep, dark berry fruit aromas meld with campfire smoke and roasted herbs preceding a medium-plus-bodied surge of ripe black currant balanced with racy sour cherry—a balanced, lip-smacking experience. It’s well textured and nicely put together with a mouth-watering, dry finish. Give this a go with spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** drink now
Louis Jadot ‘Château des Jacques’ Morgon 2011
AOC Morgon $24.95 (653584) 13.0% alcohol
Lovely floral notes, herbs and wisps of smoke curl from the nose of this Cru Beaujolais—one of only ten appellations to earn this premiere designation; lighter-styled Beaujolais Nouveau is not allowed. A delectable flow of sweet ripe fruit bathes the palate—strawberry and red cherry—with fresh acidity and fine-grained tannin playing a supportive role. The dry lengthy finish is lip-smacking delicious. Pour with pan-seared rognon de veau in mustard sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Famille Perrin ‘Les Cornuds’ Vinsobres 2012
AOC Vinsobres $17.95 (566844) ??% alcohol
A 50-50 split of Syrah/Grenache—the appellation dictates at least 50% must be Grenache—the winery loves Syrah from here so much they blend in the limit. Graphite, minerality and cherry/berry fruit herald a mid-weight nicely textured river of sweet ripe fruit—mulberry and bramble berry to the fore—adorned with spice and supple tannin underpinning. It’s drinking well now to 2020 and exceptionally well when poured with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Zenato Valpolicella Superiore 2011
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $17.95 (995704) 13.5% alcohol
Spice-laden aromas of mocha and dark juicy cherry introduce a wash of bramble berry pie and black plum compote interwoven with smoky notes and sweet vanilla. There’s considerable texture on the palate with mid-plus weight and a mid-length balanced, juicy finish. Pour alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Sabor Real Tempranillo ‘Viñas Centenarias’ 2007

DO Toro $15.95 (244772) 14.5% alcohol

Produced from ancient, century-old vines, this Tempranillo shows a hint of mahogany and enticing aromas of licorice, cigar box, spice and raspberry/blueberry pie. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s deftly structured and balanced, offering ripe fruit on the palate embellished with subtle earthy notes, herbs and spice that follow through on the extended finish. Pick up a few bottles of this, it’s drinking well now. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO (select stores only)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Cattail Creek ‘Estate Series – Simply Stainless’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 (377549) 12.5% alcohol
Pick up a few, this is pristine in appearance delivering persistent flavour, deft balance and charm. Aromas of crisp green apple and pear melding with savory herbs and lemongrass abound. This dances across the palate with tang-laden Granny Smith apple and racy lemon-lime adorned with wisps of blood orange. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lively, fresh finish that’s lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Sauvion Carte d’Or ‘Sur Lie’ Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2012
AOP Muscadet Sèvre et Maine $12.95 (143016) 12.0% alcohol
This is a hidden treasure found buried under thousands of bottles of white wine on LCBO shelves—it’s full of delicious flavour with great texture and a crisp refreshing finish. Mineral/slate and citrus on the nose, the delightful palate-bathing river of tangy lemon-lime adorned with white peach and crisp pear is mid weight with a satin-smooth mouth feel. The glorious finish is fruity, balanced and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Mike Weir Wine ‘VINYASA - Breathe’ White Blend 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (379131) 9.5% alcohol
This is primarily 50/50 Chardonnay/Riesling with a spoonful of Pinot Gris. There are three reasons to purchase— it tastes mighty fine, ALL profits go the Mike Weir Foundation to help needy kids, it’s lo-alcohol at 70 calories per 5-ounce serve. Alluring aromas of floral notes, ripe red apple and citrus introduce a delectable wash of lemony tang mingling with yellow plum bathing the palate infusing the mouth-watering finish. This works well on its own or with appetizers or light poultry and seafood dishes. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

**** drink now
Maipe ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay/Viognier 2013
Mendoza $15.95 (379073) 14.0% alcohol
Attractive aromas of toasted nut, vanilla and tropical fruit with a hint of spice lift from the glass. Dry, medium-full bodied, with a creamy round texture, this layered wine displays quite lively acidity married to ripe orchard fruit, pineapple and citrus. There’s warmth and spiciness on the palate, with a light touch of toasty oak through the finish. Serve with grilled or roast white fowl or meats. (Susan Desjardins)
 
**** drink now Exceptional Value!
The Royal ‘Old Vine’ Steen Chenin Blanc 2013
WO Swartland $13.95 (376871) 13.0% alcohol
Rich musky aromas of melon, apricot, flowers and sweet citrus tantalize the senses. Offering wonderful weight and viscosity, this fruity wine is mellow and full flavoured on the palate, showing the balance subtle, fresh acidity provides. There’s a lovely tangy, pithy note on the lush, lasting finish. Enjoy with soft cheeses or with smoked salmon. (Susan Desjardins) 

New in Ontario Wineries

• Order one or both of the following two wines by the case for daily home or office delivery from Cattail Creek.

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Cattail Creek ‘Small Lot Series’ Cabernet Franc 2012
VQA Four Mile Creek $29.95 13.0% alcohol
Only 82 cases of this gem made from a stunning vintage—it showcases structure, balance, and delectable flavour throughout. Dark berry fruit, exotic spice and floral notes on the nose herald a wash of bramble berry and dark juicy cherry bathing the palate garnished with espresso roast and dark chocolate—it spent 18 months in seasoned small barrels of French and American oak. It’s medium bodied with creamy-smooth texture, fine-grained tannin and lingering fruit-filled aftertaste—will improve with short-term aging. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Cattail Creek ‘Estate Series – Simply Stainless’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 (377549) 12.5% alcohol
Pick up a few, this is pristine in appearance delivering persistent flavour, deft balance and charm. Aromas of crisp green apple and pear melding with savory herbs and lemongrass abound. This dances across the palate with tang-laden Granny Smith apple and racy lemon-lime adorned with wisps of blood orange. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lively, fresh finish that’s lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

• Purchase the following 2 wines by the case for daily home, restaurant or office delivery from Château des Charmes.
 
**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes ‘Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2012

VQA St. David’s Bench $21.95 (287268) 12.5% alcohol
With tropical fruit, baking spice and lime-drenched papaya aromas on the nose, this dishes up a tangy river of lime cordial, toasty oak and grapefruit pith—medium weight, nicely balanced and well textured, It finishes in a flourish of mineral notes, racy lemon-lime and notions of white peach. It’s very good now, even better in six months. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Merlot 2012
VQA St. David’s Bench $29.95 13.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this wine shows lovely aromas of ripe black cherry and berry, plum, sweet spice, dried herbs and cedar. Dry, medium-full bodied with a lovely velvety texture, there’s great harmony here—polished tannins, fresh texture, earthy character and great depth of ripe fruit touched with notes of spice and dark chocolate. It finishes dry and long, and longs to be matched with roast rack of lamb or beef. (Susan Desjardins)

Private Order

• Order any or all of the following three wines by the case from Noteworthy Wines. For daily home or office delivery, email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or in London, ON phone (519) 914-1204.

***1/2 drink or cellar
Tenuta le Velette ‘Rosso di Spicca’ Rosso Orvietano 2011
DOC Rosso Orvietano, Italy $13.95 13.0% alcohol
This hand-harvested red blend—85% Sangiovese, 15% Caniolo—delivers lifted and lively aromas of spice, anise and dark cherry. The palate’s treated to a racy river of sour cherry, and dried currant riding a broad beam of tangy acidity, persistent through the lip-smacking, mid-length finish and aftertaste. It’s mid weight and pours well with pasta in tomato sauce or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Tenuta le Velette ‘Rasenna’ Orvieto Classico Amibale 2012
DOC Orvieto Classico, Italy $13.95 12.0% alcohol
This was fashioned from indigenous, hand-picked grapes—‘Amibale’ translates to medium sweet, tasting somewhat similar to ‘late harvest’ wines. Floral and honeyed orchard fruit aromas provide segue for a rich, luscious, palate-bathing river of ripe peach, yellow plum and sweet tropical fruit. The finish is fruit-forward integrating good moderating acidity and plenty of charm. Pour on its own as a welcoming wine or alongside a fruit flan or pound cake. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Tenuta le Velette ‘Berganorio’ Orvieto Classico 2013
DOC Orvieto Classico, Italy $13.95 12.0% alcohol
Lifted and lively aromas of red apple, pear and ripe pit fruit herald a mid-weight generously textured wash of lemon curd and Key lime mingling with tangy, ripe pineapple. There’s good fruit and acidity throughout with deft balance and a crisp, refreshing, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour alongside seafood—steamed mussels, pan-seared fish or grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following wine by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery (in Ontario) from Nokhrin Wines or email, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

**** drink or cellar
Chateau Picampeau ‘Cuvée Sasha’ 2010
AOC Lussac Saint-Emilion, France $17.85 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc—blossoms from the glass with aromas of black plum, roasted herbs and cracked black pepper. It washes creamy smooth and full flavoured over the palate sporting red cherry, earthy notes and oodles of tang. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a dry finish that’s racy and charming. Drinking well now, pour with grilled spicy ribs or meat-laden deli board. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan