Winecurrent
August 11, 2014 Newsletter

Highlights include:

  • Exceptional value wines Exceptional Value!  – there are 7 of 41 wines that meet the strict quality-price guidelines – all under $18. with three at $13.95. All are in the Main Release and identified by the Exceptional Value!  icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • 5-star wines – no wines rang the 5-star bell.
  • Finding Waldo – Fashioned from the once obscure ‘Mencía’ red grape, this hails from the ancient wine region of Bierzo—devastated by phylloxera in the 19th C, recently re-established, gained its wine-region accreditation in 1989. It’s 4½ stars @ $16.95 earning a Exceptional Value! rating

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores, then entering your postal code. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. Still… always best to phone first.

August 16, 2014 Vintages Release

Feature: South of France

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Guillaume Aurèle Viognier 2013
IGP Pays d’Oc, France $13.95 (380741) 13.5% alcohol
This is a prime example of warm-climate Viognier that’s just loaded with ripe fruit aromas and flavours. Floral notes and a roomful of tropical fruit aromas announce a sweet, ripe gusher of palate-coating honeydew melon, grilled pineapple and other honeyed tropical fruit flavours. It’s good weight with generous mouth feel and a fruit-filled finish that makes this delightful from cork pop to last drop—pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Tessellae ‘Carignan Old Vines’ Côtes du Roussillon 2012
AOP Côtes du Roussillon, France $18.95 (343517) 14.5% alcohol
There’s a substantial complement of tang and tannin here with two years in cellar an option to handle the latter. Aromas of roasted savory herbs and gamy notes introduce a line of sour cherry and dried currant streaking across the palate, infusing the dry finish to be joined by grainy tannin on the aftertaste. Pop corks 2016 and on to 2020 pouring with meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Domaine Bellavist ‘La Cuvée d’Ava’ Côtes du Roussillon 2011
AOP Côtes du Roussillon, France $15.95 (383398) 14.5% alcohol
This red blend—50% Mourvèdre, 30% Syrah, 20% Grenache—dishes up a rich robust nose of ripe black cherry/berry fruit and spice cake aromas. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy smooth texture and a balanced rich wash of cassis and black currant spreading across the palate. Look for more of the same on the lingering, balanced aftertaste. Back up the truck for barbecues this year and next. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château de Treviac 2011
AOP Corbières $17.95 (670505) 14.5% alcohol
Charred toast, berry fruit and floral aromas herald a river of sweet, ripe fruit with dark juicy cherry and mulberry interlaced with wisps of vanilla and soft tannin on the palate. It’s mid-full weight with good texture and a dry finish where the tannin shows a bit more. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving with the grilled red meat you like to pull off your Broil King. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Lastours ‘Grande Réserve’ Corbières 2008
AOP Corbières, France $22.95 (383067) 14.5% alcohol
This Carignan-predominant red blend delivers a heady bouquet and robust flavour; it’s a hedonistic crowd-pleaser. Lifted aromas of graphite and dark chocolate mingle with baking spice on the nose while the palate’s treated to a concentrated gusher of ripe, sweet berry fruit—black currant and mulberry—interwoven with good acidity and a supple tannin underpinning. This is well structured with good balance, medium weight and a lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste. How good is that? (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Hecht & Bannier Minervois 2011
AOC Minervois, France $20.95 (017764) 14.0% alcohol
This is light bodied and lighter styled with oodles of racy tang and wisps of tannin throughout. Aromas of pencil shavings and slate mingle with red cherry/berry fruit and oodles of piquant spice. Sour cherry and cranberry mingle with mixed spice and notions of mocha on the palate. It finishes with a tang-laden surge and perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant three hours and pour alongside pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Château de Gourgazaud ‘Cuvée Mathilde’ Minervois 2011
AOC Minervois, France $14.95 (958629) 13.5% alcohol
Rich, luscious throughout; there’s deft balance, fresh acidity, ripe fruit and soft tannin. What’s not to like? Aromas of roasted herbs, wood smoke and cooked fruit open a medium-bodied, creamy-smooth flow of bramble berry, black juicy Bing cherry, dark coffee and mixed spice bathing the palate in waves. There’s good weight and a lengthy balanced finish and oodles of charm—this punches well above the price point. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château de Cointes ‘Marie-Anne’ Malepère 2011
AOC Malepère, France $19.95 (376525) 14.5% alcohol
Lots of good things going on here beginning with an artistic, colourful label, then on to rich, spice-infused aromas of cherry and dark berry fruit. It’s quite lovely on the palate with consistency of fruit—black currant and kirsch liqueur—extending through the balanced finish. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel. There’s enough fine-grained tannin to warrant a two-hour decant. Pour with seasoned, grilled beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

Feature: Argentine Malbec

****1/2 drink or cellar
Nieto Sentiner ‘Don Nicanor’ Malbec 2011
Mendoza, Argentina $18.95 (178657) 14.5% alcohol
This is 100% Malbec, ripe and rich on nose and palate with great balance and sense of purpose; it’s a value-packed gorgeous expression of Malbec. Aromas of spice, dark berry fruit and wisps of mocha spill from the glass. It’s all dark, juicy black fruit on the polished palate with currant, briary berry and plum to the fore. It’s medium-plus bodied with satin-smooth mouth feel and an energetic, lengthy finish and aftertaste with great balance and mouth-watering freshness. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Viña Cobos ‘Bramare’ Malbec 2011
Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina $45.95 (123729) 14.0% alcohol
Über-heady aromas of sandalwood, roasted herbs and ripe, ripe fruit infuse the nose. A jammy, concentrated wash of ripe mulberry and bramble berry interweaving with Asian spice and fennel coat the palate—quite a mouthful. This is full bodied and fully textured with a lingering aftertaste of ripe berry fruit and wisps of fig.—it’s rich, robust and rarin’ to go. Pour with grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Domaine Bousquet ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2012
Tupungato Valley, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina $15.95 (055244) 15.0% alcohol
Well paced and quite delicious—stock up. Fermented and aged six months in French and American oak barrels, this hi-altitude gem struts its stuff throughout. Tobacco, savory herbs and mixed field berry fruit aromas abound. It’s full bodied and generously textured with red cherry and black currant mingling with blueberry, espresso roast and excellent moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Decero ‘Remolinos Vineyard’ Malbec 2011
Agrelo, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina $22.95 (247304) 14.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of cedar, campfire smoke and dark cherry/berry fruit provide entry for a mid-weight, nicely textured wash of red currant and red cherry interlaced with riper strawberry and briary berry. It finishes with a streak of tang and savory bits on the dry, lip-smacking finish. Pour with pasta Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Colomé ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2010
Calchaqui Valley, Salta, Argentina $74.95 (227827) 15.9% alcohol
Toasty oak and aromas of fennel and bramble berry pie meld in an introduction to this fresh lively red blend—90% Malbec, 8% Syrah, 2% Petit Verdot. There’s good weight and texture interlaced with wisps of tannin on a medium-bodied, nicely textured frame. Structured and deftly balanced, flavours of ripe mulberry and bramble berry garnished with sweet vanilla and fully integrated oak bathe the palate. The finish lingers with sweet vanilla, racy red berry fruit and wisps of supple tannin—aerate/decant for two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Château Moncontour ‘Tête de Cuvée Brut’ Vouvray

AOC Vouvray $17.95 (207936) 12.0% alcohol

This bubbly opens with a lovely nose of citrus, leesy notes and honeyed, pit fruit aromas. A profusion of bubbles carry nutty nuances and yeasty bits interlacing with racy lemon zest and juicy white nectarine. It’s medium weight with a creamy smooth texture and crisp, refreshing, lip-smacking-good aftertaste. This is very good value and worth picking up a few to keep chilled for when friends unexpectedly drop by. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Lailey Sauvignon Blanc 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (072728) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s another winner from this premiere, trusted Niagara producer. A quiet nose of citrus, green tea and floral notes set the stage for racy waves of lime cordial lemon curd robed in swirls of lightly honeyed pit fruit, savory herbs and sugared grapefruit. It’s mid weight with satin-smooth mouth feel and a mouth-watering finish that’s wreathed in lip-smacking lemon-lime. Pour with spanakopita, white pizza or chèvre tarts. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario Rosé wine

***1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Reif Estate ‘Fortune’ Cabernet Rosé 2013 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (372466) 12.5% alcohol 

Lively aromas of piquant spice and red berry fruit open a medium-bodied, nicely textured wash of flavour with sour cherry, red currant and tangy blood orange garnished with wisps of almond. It finishes in a blaze of racy citrus and spice. Pour this Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé on its own or alongside pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Black Stallion Estate Chardonnay 2012
Napa Valley $24.95 (339689) 14.5% alcohol
A quiet nose of melon and citrus introduce an easy-drinking, food-friendly gem. It’s medium-plus weight with good texture and plenty of charm. A salad bowl of tropical fruit mingles with dark toast and racy citrus on the palate and lingering aftertaste. Pour with supermarket rotisserie roast chicken or slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
First Press Chardonnay 2011
Napa Valley $19.95 (199810) 14.5% alcohol
This lovely California Chardonnay offers up aromas of toffee, toast and tropical fruit before bathing the palate with a persistent wash of butterscotch, crisp green apple and ripe pear. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lovely balanced finish replaying flavours along with wonderful citrus acidity, all balanced and beautiful. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Plume Chardonnay 2012
Napa Valley $29.95 (368050) 14.3% alcohol
Lifted aromas of orchard fruit, smoke and toffee apple set the table for a spirited wash of lemon chiffon pie, grilled pineapple and notions of white nectarine bathing the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy smooth mouth feel and balanced, crisp finish of ripe fruit and good acidity setting up a sweet and tang finish and aftertaste—complex, deftly balanced and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Gnarly Head ‘Old Vine Zin’ Zinfandel 2011

Lodi $17.95 (678698) 14.5% alcohol

Aromas of smoky, oaky, dark cherry and ripe berry fruit on the nose, replay on the palate with wood smoke, dark fruit and toasty oak joined by black berry jam and black plum compote. It’s mid weight with decent mouth feel and a dry, balanced fruit-filled finish. Pours and pairs well with grilled, smoked, back ribs slathered in spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2drink or cellar
Irony ‘Small Lot Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Napa Valley $19.95 (025106) 14.5% alcohol

This trusted producer of good-value, balanced, flavour-filled wine doesn’t disappoint here. Aromas of dark berry fruit, spice, notions of anise and mint spill from this medium-bodied, heavenly textured gem. There’s a salad bowl of palate-bathing flavours—black bramble berry, ripe mulberry and spice-infused dark, juicy Bing cherry—interlaced with sweet vanilla and toasty bits from seven months in French and American oak persisting through the balanced, complex, lingering aftertaste. Great value, great wine. (Vic Harradine)

****drink or cellar
J. Lohr ‘South Ridge’ Syrah 2011

Paso Robles $19.95 (948240) 13.5% alcohol

Aromas of piquant spice interwoven with glimmers of gamy notes and toasty oak precede a gentle wash of palate-bathing, red and dark berry fruit garnished with mixed spice, black pepper and mocha. It’s mid weight with good texture and a balanced aftertaste that layers on espresso roast and notions of sweet vanilla. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

***1/2 drink now 
Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2012
Casablanca Valley $19.95 (390203) 14.0% alcohol
Ripe pit fruit, honeydew melon and mixed spice on the nose, this skips across the palate with racy tang—lemon, lime and pineapple—and notions of ripe orchard fruit, nectarine and pear. It’s medium bodied with decent texture and a mid-length finish of racy citrus and touches of oak. Pair with pan-seared scallops. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Thorn-Clarke ‘Shotfire’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2011
Barossa Valley, South Australia $21.95 (296582) 14.0% alcohol
Savory herbs and mouth-watering tang run throughout this medium-plus weighted, nicely textured red blend. Aromas of cherry/berry fruit and mocha herald red and black cherry streaking across the palate adorned with roasted herbs and loads of tang with good replays on the finish. Pair with lasagne or meat-lovers pizza. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Wakefield Shiraz 2012
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (943787) 14.0% alcohol
Dark berry fruit and spice mingle with dried savory herb aromas providing segue to a lively fresh stream of red and black currant garnished with mocha and wisps of mint. It’s mid weight with decent mouth feel and racy finish layering on the savory herb and spice first detected on the nose with dark coffee and sweet coconut from ageing in American oak barrels. Pour alongside pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Thornbury Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (734798) 13.0% alcohol
This is a lovely SB with a price-quality ratio skewed in your favour. Heady lifted aromas of piquant spice, grassy notes and gooseberry introduce a mid-weight, mouthful of nerve and verve with racy white grapefruit, tangy lemon and lime racing across the palate, infusing the lively, juicy finish. There’s good purity of fruit, persistent acidity and riper hints of peach and apple on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Thelema ‘Sutherland’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
WO Elgin $13.95 (203877) 14.0% alcohol
Load up on this … then tell your friends. Aromas of savory herbs, nettles and gooseberry unleash a torrent of rich, racy fruit flavours with lime cordial, lemon chiffon pie and pineapple yoghurt to the fore—all ameliorated by a lovely sweet edge. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and finishes with spice, mouth-watering freshness, lip-smacking charm and great versatility at the table. Pour with grilled or pan-seared sea food, white pizza or steamed mussels. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Domain Billaud-Simon ‘Les Vaillons’ Chablis 1er Cru 2011
AOC Chablis $39.95 (330175) 13.0% alcohol
This is more approachable than many Chablis with ripe fruit flavour in the mix of this mid-weight, nicely textured gem. Mineral and slate mingles with notions of orchard fruit and piquant spice on the nose ushering in a delightful wash of crisp green apple and lemon tang that’s deftly softened with nectarine, poached pear and grilled pineapple on the palate. It’s quite approachable with additional fleshy fruit appearing on the finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

France Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de l’Olivette ‘Excellence Chusclan’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2012
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $19.95 (380691) 13.0% alcohol
An alluring nose of sandalwood, savory herbs and ripe dark bramble berry open up this sweet and tang gem. It’s tangy and racy on entry and the mid-palate—sour cherry and red currant—morphing into sweet ripe fruit—bramble berry and black juicy cherry—on the fresh, lively finish. This pours well alongside pork schnitzel and grilled veggies. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Domaine Le Grand Retour ‘Plan de Dieu’ 2011

AOC Côtes du Rhône-Village $13.95 (224592) 15.0% alcohol

Tuck a few of these under your arm; it’s luscious and hedonistic with oodles of flavour, flair and charm. Rosewood, black licorice and espresso roast complement the dark berry fruit aromas. Rich, ripe and stylish throughout, black currant, juicy black cherry and tangy briary berry bathe the palate garnished with mixed spice and notions of dark coffee. It’s mid-full weight with silky mouth feel and lingering finish that replays fruit moderated by good acidity and underpinned by fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Apollonio Coppertino Rosso 2007
DOC Puglia $18.95 (023226) 14.0% alcohol
Toasty notes, tobacco and black plum with baking spice aromas herald a tang-laden streak of sour cherry and cranberry on this seven-year-old red. It’s medium bodied with nice texture and manages good balance on the finish with an infusion of ripe mulberry and bramble berry. Pour with pasta Bolognese or red pizza. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Villa Annaberta Amarone Della Valpolicella 2010
DOCG Valpolicella $39.95 (338921) 15.0% alcohol
Wood smoke, sharp spice and hints of savory herbs set the stage for this savory-laden Amarone. Tang-infused flavours of cherry and currant interweave with savory herbs on the palate while the dry, mid-length aftertaste layers on ripe black currant and fig, perceptible tannin and a tell-tale Amarone bite. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving with osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Zeni Marogne Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2011
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $17.95 (220830) 14.0% alcohol
Often offering better value than most Amarone, this Ripasso punches well above its weight. Sweet vanilla, chocolate and black plum on the nose, it showers the palate with waves of rich balanced flavours—red and dark cherry interlaced with cassis and mixed spice. It’s medium-plus weight with satin-smooth texture and a finish that’s laced with spice and bittersweet chocolate. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Herdade Pendo Gordo Vinho Tinto 2012
DOC Alentejo $14.95 (218339) 14.0% alcohol
This traditional producer uses only indigenous varietals here and a scant four months of oak ageing; it’s a winning combination. Heady aromas of spice box and cooked fruit show the way for a crowd-pleasing river of bramble berry pie and anise mingling with wisps of tapenade. It’s mid-plus weight and nicely textured with a lengthy, dry, tangy finish, robed in soft tannin—aerate/decant for two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Post Scriptum De Chryseia 2011
DO Douro $29.95 (067538) 14.0% alcohol
Bruno Prats, formerly of the 2nd Growth, Bordeaux estate, Château Cos d’Estournel, and the Symington family teamed up in 1999 to form a formidable partnership in this enterprise. Rich and robust throughout, there’s good structure, fresh acidity and great purity of fruit along with a supple tannin underpinning—aerate/decant two hours. Aromas and flavours are dominated by perfumed floral notes, black currant and dark cherry with spice and roasted herbs. It’s medium weight and nicely textured. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Abad Dom Bueno Mencía 2008
DO Bierzo $16.95 (291989) 13.5% alcohol
Involved alluring aromas of espresso roast, herbs and spice, dark berry fruit and spice abound on this aged gem. Dense and delicious on the palate, sweet, ripe mulberry and juicy black cherry interweave with notions of black licorice and pipe tobacco. This is full bodied and fully textured with a lingering aftertaste replaying palate flavours with sweet vanilla, from American and French oak ageing, and still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant three hours or pop corks 2016 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now 
López De Haro Crianza 2008
DOCa Rioja $15.95 (377481) 13.5% alcohol
This is tight and tart throughout with tangy flavour on the palate and a dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s light on its feet with sour cherry and cranberry streaking over the palate garnished with savory herbs and notions of dried currants. Pour with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

• The following is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores

****1/2 drink now
Irony ‘Small Lot Reserve’ Merlot 2011
Napa Valley, California $19.95 (183186) 14.5% alcohol
Dark cherry and black berry fruit aromas mingle with earthy notes and wisps of mint on the nose. This is deftly balanced with structure, purity of fruit and rich, luscious flavour as well as medium bodied with satin-smooth texture and lots of charm. Stylish flavours of black currant, cassis and ripe mulberry caress the palate, infusing the long, sweet, fruity finish. There’s good value and an evening of pleasure here. (Vic Harradine)

New in LCBO

• Receive 10 Bonus AirMiles on purchase of the following until August 16, 2014

**** drink now
181 ‘Noble Vines’ Merlot 2012
Lodi, California $16.95 (226530) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of black plum, aromatic bitters and wood smoke interweave with exotic spice preceding a creamy smooth surge of hedonistic ambrosia. Spice-laden juicy Bing cherry and bramble berry garnished with sweet vanilla and dark coffee coat the palate. It’s medium-plus weight with good balance and excellent tang. The finish lingers, lip-smacking good. Pour with grilled, smoked back ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

• Look for the next two value wines on LCBO shelves in September, 2014

***1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Pillitteri ‘Canadian Gothic’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.00 13.0% alcohol
With a return to the ‘good old days’, this showcases an easy-drinking, uncomplicated, value-packed mouthful of ripe orchard fruit—ripe pear and apple with wisps of peach—ably balanced with lemony tang and a touch of white grapefruit on the finish. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a mid-length aftertaste. Pours well on its own or with roast chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Pillitteri ‘Canadian Gothic’ Cabernet - Merlot 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.00 12.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of piquant spice, cherry, graphite and menthol lead the way to a mellow and creamy smooth river of red berry fruit and ripe, dark, juicy cherry on the palate. It’s medium bodied with good tang throughout and a fresh, mouth-watering finish with wisps of tannin adding structure and underpinning. Serve with the grilled red meat you pull off your Weber—the price-quality balance tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan