June 5, 2014 Newsletter

Highlights include:

• Exceptional value wines  – 14 of 80 wines reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines – many under $20 ; two in the Main Release with the balance following, all identified by the  icon. What are the strict, quality-price guidelines? Click here.  
• 5-star wines – three wines rang the 5-star bell, all following the Main Release 
• Ontario rules – ten Ontario wineries are represented in the newsletter with more than their fair share of 5-star and exceptional value wines: Château des Charmes, Closson Chase, Featherstone, Konzelmann, Pillitteri, Redstone, Riverview, Rosehall Run, Strewn and Sue Ann Staff. 
• Private Order – If you haven’t cast bait in these waters, this may be a good time to put a line in. There are 22 wines reviewed at the end of this newsletter, not available in the LCBO, but you can order by the case from the agent. 

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, still best to phone first. 

Vintages Release: June 7, 2014

Feature: Authentic Australia

Haselgrove ‘First Cut’ Shiraz 2010
McLaren Vale, South Australia $18.95 (367425) 14.0% alcohol
This is a crowd-pleasing red with good balance and a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. Black tea, roasted herbs and mixed field berry fruit on the nose, it bathes the palate with creamy smooth, mellow waves of sweet, ripe mulberry and red cherry adorned with mixed spice and bittersweet chocolate. It’s mid-full weight with an expressive finish that’s fruity and nicely balanced. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Tournon ‘Mathilda’ Shiraz 2011
Victoria $19.95 (327395) 13.0% alcohol
Michel Chapoutier, winemaker of Rhône Valley fame, has applied his considerable talents in Australia. Not everyone’s cup of tea, this certainly leans more toward Rhône Syrah than what many have come to brand, ‘Aussie Shiraz’. Gamy, piquant spice and roasted herbs on the nose, it streaks across the palate with laser-like, sleek, racy flavours of red currant and pomegranate. It’s medium weight, tight and taut and über tangy on the finish. (Vic Harradine)


Grant Burge ‘The Holy Trinity’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2011
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (236257) 14.5% alcohol
Vintage after vintage, this hardly disappoints; it’s rich, balanced, nicely structured and heavenly perfumed with a tang-laden aftertaste. Aromas of briary berry and exotic spice meld with gamy notes presaging a balanced river of red and dark berry fruit, baking spice and black licorice. The finish is enveloped in racy acidity providing a crisp, dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Tyrrell’s ‘HVD Single Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2012
Hunter Valley, NSW $23.95 (368282) 13.2% alcohol
Hand picked and basket pressed, this was barrel aged for 6 months in French oak. It showcases cool-climate Hunter Valley fruit with great nerve and nerve, minerality and style. Pit fruit, green apple and mineral tones precede a lean, lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste with citrus tang and ripe honeydew melon to the fore. This’ll improve in bottle over the next 24 months. (Vic Harradine)


Nugan King Valley ‘Frasca’s Lane’ Chardonnay 2012
King Valley, Victoria $19.95 (288191) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of pit fruit, muskmelon and toasty bits presage a creamy-smooth, mid-full weight splash of white nectarine, peach cobbler and almonds. It’s well paced and complex with flavours stretching through the lengthy, balanced aftertaste. Pour with tuna niçoise salad or three-cheese white pizza topped with arugula. (Vic Harradine)


Wynns Coonawarra Estate ‘Black Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Coonawarra, South Australia $27.95 (84996) 13.5% alcohol
This is a premium vintage for this iconic red, found in the ‘Excellent’ category of the vaunted Langton’s Classification of Australia’s most sought-after wines. Aromas of dark berry fruit robed in savory herbs and spice herald an elegant, balanced wash of complex flavours with black currant and dark cherry mingling with roasted herbs and hints of bittersweet chocolate. It’s fully textured and full flavoured, balanced and well paced with a lengthy, gorgeous finish. (Vic Harradine)


Mitolo ‘Jester’ Shiraz 2012
McLaren Vale, Australia $22.95 (659607) 14.5% alcohol
Rich, lifted aromas of dark juicy berry fruit, black licorice and tar leap from the glass of this gorgeous red. Concentrated and complex, luscious sweet, ripe mulberry and juicy black Bing cherry interlace with black pepper and notions of camp coffee on the medium-full bodied, creamy textured palate. The lingering aftertaste is nicely balanced, complex and über rich and delicious with each sip as good or better than the last. Grilled rack of lamb is a perfect partner. (Vic Harradine)


Kilikanoon ‘Killerman’s Run’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Claire Valley, South Australia $19.95 (675223) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of espresso roast and black currant spill from this medium-bodied Cab. There’s oodles of red fruit throughout with cherry, currant and raspberry to the fore on the palate, joined by sweeter, riper mulberry on the dry, tangy, mouth-watering finish. Give this a go with a rich beef or lamb daube.

Mini-feature: Italian White Wine

Terredora Di Paola ‘Loggia Della Serra’ 2012
DOCG Greco Di Tufo $18.95 (983197) 13.5% alcohol
Full bodied, full flavoured, rich and robust, it jumps from the glass with gusto—lemon zest, honeyed pit fruit and apricot aromas. It rolls over the palate with nicely textured sprigs of herbs, flinty/minerality and tangy citrus. It showcases great structure and a crisp, clean, refreshing aftertaste. This is a stylish, cerebral wine that’ll satisfy the thirsty drinker as well as the thirsty thinker. (Vic Harradine)


La Cappuccina Soave 2013
DOC Soave $15.95 (81489) 12.0% alcohol
This dishes up more flavour than your average Soave with it’s clean and lean delivery and mouth-watering, crisp, clean finish. Aromas of citrus, floral notes and orchard fruit slide easily into well-paced fruit flavours of white nectarine, sweet, ripe melon and tang-laden citrus. Pour with hi-grade, rare-seared tuna or grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Poças ‘Junior’ Vintage Port 2009
DOC Douro $57.95 (369744) 20.0% alcohol
Fig, raisin and black plum compote aromas mingle with hints of camphor and anise. This is dense, concentrated and truly luscious with a lengthy, complex finish. Black, sweet bramble berry, kirsch liqueur and spice-infused black currant coat the palate, infusing the aftertaste. Robed in tannin for now, pour 2016-2030 serving with a chocolate dessert or hard aged cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Canada: White Wine

Sue-Ann Staff ‘Loved by Lu’ Riesling 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (322636) 10.5% alcohol 

Minerality and wisps of diesel fuel on the nose provide segue to a glorious gusher of tangy lime cordial mingling with guava fruit and honeydew melon. It’s light-medium weight and nicely textured sporting a crisp, racy, refreshing finish. There’s good value and a long racy aftertaste. Pour alongside grilled prawns or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

Canada: Red Wine

Konzelmann ‘Heritage Reserve’ 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.95 (149179) 13.0% alcohol
Predominantly Merlot along with the two Cabs, this dishes up aromas of roasted coffee bean, red and black berry fruit and mixed spice. It blankets the palate with back currant and juicy black cherry robed in grippy tannin and good moderating acidity with wisps of charry oak. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and lengthy finish. Give this time to knit together, pour 2016 to 2020 with grilled, seasoned strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Artesa Chardonnay 2012
Carneros $24.95 (657585) 14.5% alcohol
Quintessential California Chardonnay, it barrels from the glass with sweet vanilla, baking spice and oodles of toasty/oaky aromas. It’s medium bodied with good texture, structure and complexity. Toffee apple, lemon chiffon pie and tropical fruit bathe the palate. It’s nicely balanced with good purity of fruit, wisps of oak and moderating acidity. Good to go now with roast chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Barlow Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Calistoga, Napa Valley $66.95 (147637) 14.9% alcohol
Intense and concentrated throughout, lifted and lovely aromas of roasted herbs, sweet vanilla and dried berry fruit abound. It’s silky, seductive and stately, dishing up sexy waves of juicy, black Bing cherry, vanilla and cassis melding with baking spice and espresso roast. Medium-full bodied and well textured, the flavours persist through the finish and aftertaste. What’s not to like. (Vic Harradine)


Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Zinfandel 2012
Contra Costa County, Central Coast $19.95 (719211) 14.5% alcohol
These century-old, dry-farmed, gnarly vines deliver a perfumed nose of red and dark berry fruit and earthy aromas. It’s balanced and fruit forward with oodles of sweet, ripe mulberry, tang-laden sour cherry and charred toast. It’s medium-full weight, generously textured with a lengthy, dry, balanced aftertaste and a truckload of value and charm. (Vic Harradine)


Marimar Estate ‘Mas Cavalls’ Pinot Noir 2009
Sonoma Coast $39.95 (368316) 14.2% alcohol
No shy, retiring wallflower this, it leaps from the glass with lifted, lively aromas of savory herbs, gamy notes and red and black berry fruit. Concentrated, complex, rich and luscious, flavours of cassis, kirsch liqueur and bittersweet chocolate roll in waves, persisting through the balanced, mouth-watering, mid-length finish and aftertaste. It’s fully textured and full flavoured, drink now to early 2020s. (Vic Harradine)


Ridge ‘Geyserville’ 2011
Sonoma County $49.95 (723072) 14.2% alcohol
An iconic, perennial favourite of wine lovers and connoisseurs alike, it’s a single-vineyard red blend—78% Zinfandel, 16% Carignane with a splash each of Petite Syrah, Alicante Bouschet and Mourvèdre. Aromas of forest floor, briary berry and fennel open the door to complex, structured flavours of dark juicy cherry and sweet vanilla framed by lively acidity, underpinned by supple tannin. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a luxurious, balanced finish. Aerate/decant for three hours before pouring—the winemaker suggests it’s good to go now to 2024. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Finca Flichman ‘Expresiones Reserve’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Mendoza $15.95 (17111) 14.5% alcohol
This punches well above the price with rich, luscious gobs of ripe, dark fruit. Black cherry and ripe, dark berry fruit on the nose, it spills over the palate with briary berry, kirsch liqueur and notions of black licorice and tarry notes. It’s full bodied, fully flavoured and silky smooth with a fruit-filled and fairly well-balanced aftertaste. Pour with whatever grilled red meat you pull off your Broil King. (Vic Harradine)


Trapiche ‘Fincas Las Palmas’ Malbec 2011
Uco Valley, Mendoza $16.95 (186668) 15.0% alcohol
Rich and balanced with great purity of fruit, aromas of black currant, baking spice and toasty bits mingling with vanilla—18 months in French oak barrels—spring from the glass. It’s rich and balanced with black berry fruit and dark cherry dominating throughout. It’s medium-full weight with good texture and a solid underpinning of fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Oyster Bay Merlot 2012

Hawkes Bay $18.95 (692343) 13.0% alcohol

This is a reliably good, dry, mid-full weight Merlot showcasing smoky, toasty, spicy cherry/berry and plum fruit. Nicely balanced, ripe tannins and lively acidity frame concentrated raspberry, black cherry and plum. There’s a touch of spice and a notion of chocolate-coated cherries through the clean, fruity finish. Serve with herbed roast loin of pork. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

Delheim 'Simonsberg' Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

WO Simonsberg $18.95 (981357) 14.5% alcohol

This was produced from de-classified fruit that would normally go into their Grand Reserve. Aged in French oak for 17 months, this is a beautifully crafted, well-integrated, substantial wine. Inky purple, the complexity starts on the nose—aromas of cassis and plum emerge and mingle with mint, dried herbs, cedar, smoke and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, the firm frame of tannin and fine acidity accent the ripe flavours of black currant, berry and plum. Notions of exotic spice and dark chocolate tantalize with subtle notes of toast manifesting on the extended finish. A restrained, elegant yet powerful wine that's outstanding value. Pick up a few bottles to enjoy now with grilled meats and over the next few years. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine 

As mentioned in the previous newsletter, unfortunately, the minimal tasting hours ran out before the table of French reds could be approached. 

Germany: Rosé Wine

Königschaffhauser Vulkanfelsen Pinot Noir Rosé Trocken 2013
Qualitätswein Winzergenossenschaft $13.95 (168237) 13.0% alcohol
Quite light in colour, this opens with a grand bouquet of aromas—strawberry, rose petals and spice. This is light on its feet with red currant and cherry melding with piquant spice and watermelon on the palate and mid-length aftertaste. It pours well alongside pan-seared salmon or white pizza dressed with arugula. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Leone De Castris ‘Riserva’ Salice Salentino 2010
DOC Salice Salentino $19.95 (597534) ?% alcohol
Pipe tobacco, red cherry and mixed spice on the nose; this dishes up a racy line of crisp acidity delivered via red currant, sour cherry and hints of cranberry. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with more red cherry on the dry, racy finish. Pour with lasagna or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


I Castei Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2009
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $43.95 (739979) 15.5% alcohol
A somewhat lighter-styled Amarone, it’s flavourful and stylish nonetheless. Aromas and flavours of fig, raisin and black plum compote mingle with flecks of wood smoke and dried herbs throughout. It’s medium bodied with satin-smooth mouth feel and a balanced finish and aftertaste showcasing deft balance and finesse. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Quinta Do Roncão ‘Reserva’ 2011 

DOC Douro $15.95 (147942) 14.0% alcohol 

This over-delivers now and will only improve in bottle over the next 2-7 years; you wouldn’t go wrong in starting, or adding this to, a modest collection. Fashioned from premium Port grapes, this red blend sports alluring aromas and delicious flavours of sweet, ripe mulberry, dark, juicy cherry and tangy, black currant interwoven with good acidity and a solid tannin underpinning. A three-hour decant will soften the tannin, as will pouring with grilled, seasoned steak. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Borsao ‘Tres Pico’ Garnacha 2011 

DO Campo de Borja $19.95 (273748) 15.0% alcohol 

This is a sure-fire, crowd-pleasing red with lifted, alluring aromas, oodles of dark, ripe fruit, good structure and enough acidity for great balance. Piquant spice and herb aromas interweave with rich, dark berry fruit and black plum compote. There’s a gusher of sweet, ripe mulberry, black and juicy Bing cherry on the palate and extended finish. It’s good weight and textured with a fruit-laden, spice-infused aftertaste, and it’s very good value. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: July 5, 2014

Featherstone Estate Winery Gewürztraminer 2013 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (64592) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of rosewater and exotic spice capture the essence of this gem before washing over the palate with waves of slightly off-dry ambrosia—ginger-spiced nectarine and tropical fruit garnished with Meyer lemon and orange peel. It’s medium bodied with a creamy, oily texture and lingering aftertaste of ripe pit fruit and that tell tale lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour alongside green curry chicken with steamed rice. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: July 19, 2014

Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2013 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $17.95 (89011) 13.0% alcohol
A double-gold winner at the All-Canadian Wine Championships. Big kudos to co-owner and winemaker, Dave Johnson. This is alluring on the nose—soft floral notes and tropical fruit—and absolutely delicious on the palate and mouth-watering finish. With or without food, this is a go to Sauvignon Blanc for this summer; it’s loaded with flavour, tang and charm. Lemony citrus, pineapple and melon bathe the palate, replaying on the crisp refreshing aftertaste. It’s balanced, complex and dare I say… yummy. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Spirits

$2.00 off price shown below for Hayman’s Dry Gin now until June 21, 2014


Hayman’s London Dry Gin
England, UK $27.95 (358200)
Crystal clear and brilliant, distilled with 10 botanicals and licorice, some are discernible on the nose—orange, lemon and black licorice. It’s smooth and mellow on entry with notions of lime cordial. This is quite dry on the pleasing, smooth finish. This is excellent quality and very well priced. (Vic Harradine)


Concha y Toro ‘Winemaker’s Lot 148’ Carmenère 2012 

Las Pataguas Vineyard, Rapel Valley, Chile $18.95 (30957) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark cherry and spice presage a tang-laden river of red and black cherry and dried currants robed in spice and roasted herbs bathing the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lengthy, balanced, dry finish. Each sip is as good or better than the previous—very well structured. Pour with rare-grilled skirt steak. (Vic Harradine)


Featherstone Cabernet Franc 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (64618) 13.0% alcohol 

Offering tangy, lifted aromas of cherry, berry, herbs and vanilla, this is a finely crafted dry, medium-bodied Franc. Red fruit flavours are complemented by earthy notes, smoke, spice and vanilla framed by fine-grained tannins and clean acidity. There’s an attractive whiff of roasted red pepper that lingers through the finish of this ripe, nicely structured and well-balanced red. (Susan Desjardins)


Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Blue Label’ Merlot 2012

California $24.95 (595686) 13.5% alcohol
Black plum, exotic spice and wisps of fennel and black currant herald a fully flavoured, creamy smooth wash of pure ambrosia—cassis and kirsch liqueur robed in mocha and mouth-watering tang. It’s mid-full weight with a balanced, delectable finish and aftertaste. This is structured, complex and downright delicious. Pour alongside slow-roasted pork or chicken dishes. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Boschendal ‘The Pavillion’ Chenin Blanc – Viognier 2013
WO Western Cape, South Africa $10.95 (281311) 13.0% alcohol
Floral notes and tropical fruit introduce a beautifully textured wash of sweet, ripe honeydew melon, white nectarine and lemon pie filling. This is light on its feet with oodles of flavour and charm. The finish lingers, you shouldn’t; it offers very good value deserving a spot at your table. (Vic Harradine)


Château des Charmes Gamay Noir 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (57349) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of spice, roasted herbs and notions of camphor intro a tangy river of sour cherry, red currant and hints of dark chocolate—a Gold Medal winner at the Ontario Wine Awards. It’s fresh, light and lively on the palate with good length and balance. The red fruit flavours shine throughout while the lingering finish layers on a surprising, supple tannin underpinning. Serve slightly chilled with burgers, meat- laden pizza or grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)


Cono Sur ‘Reserva’ Chardonnay 2012

DO Valle de Casablanca, Chile $12.95 (270066) 13.0% alcohol
Ripe apple, floral notes and baking spice on the nose, this rolls over the palate with waves of sweet ripe orchard fruit—peach, pear and apple—nicely balanced with crisp refreshing lemon acidity. It’s mid weight with generous mouth feel and a mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pours well on its own and with chicken Caesar salad or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)


Cono Sur ‘Bicicleta’ Pinot Noir Rosé 2013

DO Valle del Bio Bio, Chile $9.95 (318014) 13.0% alcohol
Subtle aromas of citrus and red berry fruit gather as precursor to a palate explosion of raspberry pie filling and blood orange flavours mingling with spice and racy tang. This has very good mouth feel, medium weight and a balanced finish and aftertaste. Good to pour on its own and perfect with white pizza or pan-seared, freshwater trout. (Vic Harradine)


Raymond ‘Family Classic’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
North Coast, California $18.95 13.5% alcohol
This opens with fresh aromas of cherry, dark bramble berry and notions of spice and blueberry. It rolls over the palate with fully flavoured, nicely textured, satin-smooth waves of black juicy cherry and cassis garnished with baking spice and vanilla. This is balanced, structured and lengthy in the mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with grilled strip loin and portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)


Summer Shack Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Australia $12.95 (358986) 12.5% alcohol
No matter the season, this is summer sunshine in a glass with aromas of floral notes and tropical fruit. Gorgeous, lip-smacking flavours of lemon pie filling, white nectarine and ripe pear bathe the palate in creamy smooth waves. This is balanced and beautiful with a crisp, refreshing finish. It pours well on its own and alongside seafood or chicken. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Purchase by the case for daily home, restaurant or office delivery from Château des Charmes.


Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay Musqué 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (640516) 13.5% alcohol
Golden in the glass, this wine is produced from a particularly aromatic clone of Chardonnay, evidenced by lifted aromas of ripe stone and orchard fruit, preserved citrus and spiced floral notes. Dry, medium bodied, the wine shows noticeable weight and a creamy texture. Flavours of peach, pear and citrus zest are well matched to subtle, clean acidity and a pleasing touch of tangy white pepper on the finish. Enjoy with chicken Caesar salad or planked salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

Order the following three wines by the case for delivery to home, office or licensee from Closson Chase.


Closson Chase ‘South Clos’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Prince Edward County $39.95 12.7% alcohol
The hand-picked, low-yielding—approx. ½ tonne/acre—indigenous-yeast fermented fruit was aged 17 months in primarily seasoned French oak, undergoing malolactic conversion in barrel then bottled unfiltered. Caramel, spice and grilled pineapple on the nose, it bathes the palate with a tangy wash of lemon zest, flinty minerality and notions of blood orange and lime sorbet. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and wisps of grapefruit peel on the aftertaste. From one of North America’s premium producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this’ll improve in bottle over the next 12 months. (Vic Harradine)


Closson Chase ‘Closson Chase Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 12.7% alcohol
Dark buttered toast, ripe apple and notions of toffee on the nose, it spills over the palate with Granny Smith apple, toffee and wisps of toasty oak. It’s medium-full bodied with oodles of creamy texture, complexity, balance and a promising future. The finish is robed in good acidity and orchard fruit. Give it 12 months to weave in the 17 months of French oak, it’ll handsomely reward that short-term cellaring. (Vic Harradine)


Closson Chase ‘K.J. Watson Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2011
VQA Niagara River $34.95 12.7% alcohol
From a year sandwiched between two that were outstanding, this easily holds its own. Quite lightly hued and light-medium weight, don’t be fooled, it dishes up an elegant stream of ripe fruit that’s balanced, mouth-watering and full of charm. Aromas of spice, red berry fruit and wisps of truffles herald a lively, flavourful stream of ripe red cherry and red currant jelly robed in red grapefruit and mandarin orange. The finish is lengthy, balanced and tangy. (Vic Harradine)

Order the following three wines and those reviewed in the previous, May 23 newsletter, online for daily home, office or restaurant delivery from Pillitteri Estates Winery. 


Pillitteri Estates ‘Winemakers Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $68.00 13.0% alcohol 
Earthy and dark cherry aromas mingle with mocha and roasted herbs on the nose. It spills over the palate with dense, complex dark, juicy Bing cherry, black briary berry and mixed spice, rich and luscious. Framed by mouth-watering acidity and underpinned by a solid bed of perceptible tannin, it’s full-bodied and fully flavoured, portending a monumental wine. From the vaunted 2010 vintage and robed in tannin, this limited-production gem needs time—drink 2016-2024. (Vic Harradine)


Pillitteri Estates ‘Exclamation’ Chardonnay 2011

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $23.00 13.5% alcohol 
Old-vine fruit for this stylish, outstanding white was barrel fermented and aged on lees 6 months in new and seasoned French oak barrels. Aromas of toffee apple, citrus and pear presage a complex and structured surge of ripe juicy pear, Meyer lemon and Granny Smith apple garnished with buttered toast and wisps of white nectarine. This is medium weight, creamy textured with a lengthy lip-smacking, delectable aftertaste. Winemaker, Alex Kolundzic, fashions yet another gem. (Vic Harradine)


Pillitteri Estates Pinot Gris 2012

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.00 (146787) 12.5% alcohol
Lifted alluring aromas jump from the glass—lime cordial, tropical fruit and notions of flinty minerality. Palate-bathing flavour washes over the palate with honeydew melon, ripe pear and ruby red grapefruit to the fore. It’s medium bodied and beautifully textured with a crisp, refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pours well with seafood, chicken and veal dishes. Also available in select LCBO stores, it’s worth seeking out. (Vic Harradine)

Order the following wine, and those reviewed in the May 7 and May 23, 2014 newsletter by the case for daily home or office delivery via email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..  Owned and advised by Tawse Winery, they’ve arrived on the scene with quite a splash - pun intended.  


Redstone Winery Meritage 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 13.5% alcohol 
Equal part Merlot and the two Cabs, this offers up an alluring nose of tobacco, cedar and baking spice. It bathes the palate with dark berry fruit and good acidity that’s presently in the grip of a tannin underpinning. All the components are here and it may develop into a very good red. Pull corks 2016 and again 2018. (Vic Harradine)

Order the following three wines and those reviewed in the May 23, 2014 newsletter by the case of 12—mixed, if you like—with daily free delivery in Ontario to your home, office or restaurant from Riverview. 


Riverview Cellars Baco Noir 2012 

VQA Ontario $15.95 12.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, charred toast and red cherry/berry aromas presage a racy zesty wash of cranberry, pomegranate and blood orange on the palate. It’s mid weight with good texture and a tang-laden finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled, smoked back ribs or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)


Riverview Cellars ‘Salvatore’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

VQA Niagara River $24.95 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of charred toast, tobacco and dark cherry abound. Sour cherry, tangy red currant and pomegranate flavours mingle with toasty oak and black berry on the mid-full bodied, nicely textured wash of flavour. The drying finish layers on fresh lively hits of black Bing cherry and dried currants. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with grilled gourmet sausage or steak. (Vic Harradine)


Riverview Cellars Riesling 2012 

VQA Niagara River $14.95 11.0% alcohol
Brilliant, light-gold hued in the glass, aromas of honeysuckle and citrus provide segue for a creamy-textured, fully flavoured river of lime cordial, Granny Smith apple and ripe pear. It’s light-medium bodied with a delightful sweet fruit and citrus tang throughout. The finish is lengthy and luxurious, dry, crisp and refreshing. The perfect dance partner with pan-seared fish, steamed mussels or grilled prawns. (Vic Harradine)  

Order the following three wines by the case for daily office, restaurant or home delivery direct from Rosehall Run.


Rosehall Run ‘Hungry Point’ Unoaked Chardonnay 2013
VQA Prince Edward County $19.95 12.5% alcohol
Exotic spice, floral notes, apple and pit fruit aromas abound. Bathing the palate with spice-infused Granny Smith apple and ripe pear garnished with Meyer lemon, it’s medium bodied, value-laden and nicely textured. There’s complexity and charm throughout with good purity of fruit and a balanced refreshing finish. A 20-minute, room-temperature aeration/decant provides quite a lift. Pair with gougère, white pizza or chicken Caesar salad. (Vic Harradine)


Rosehall Run ‘The Righteous Dude – Single Vineyard’ Riesling 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 9.2% alcohol
There’s very good value in this off-dry beauty. Fresh, lively aromas spring from the glass—orchard fruit, floral notes and pineapple to the fore. It dazzles the palate with ripe peach and nectarine robed in racy lemon curd and Granny Smith apple on the palate, infusing the crisp, mouth-watering finish. It’s good weight with substantial mouth feel and oodles of charm. Pour with tandoori chicken. (Vic Harradine)


Rosehall Run ‘Just One Rose’ Rosé 2013
VQA Ontario $17.95 12.5% alcohol
A blend of 80% Gamay and 20% Pinot Noir, this copper-bronze gem sports aromas of floral notes and red currant jelly. There’s plenty going on in this delightfully interesting blend with surges of red cherry, strawberry, blood orange and ruby red grapefruit bathing the palate. It’s medium bodied with a silky smooth texture to complement the lip-smacking aftertaste. Sip on its own or pour with friends and a deli board or supermarket rotisserie chicken. (Vic Harradine)

Order the following four wines by the case for daily home, restaurant or office delivery by phone 905-468-1229 or online from Strewn Winery.


Strewn ‘Terroir’ Gewürztraminer 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 13.4% alcohol
Sexy aromas of exotic spice, rosewater and apricot presage a beautifully textured, heavenly scented river of grilled pineapple, mango and spice-laden pit fruit—mango, nectarine and apricot. It’s Alsatian-styled with an oily mouth feel and a bit of a bite on the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Hats off to Aussie-born winemaster, Marc Bradshaw, as he bats for six with this beauty. (Vic Harradine)


Strewn ‘Terroir’ Riesling 2012
VQA Niagara-on the-Lake $16.95 11.9% alcohol
Aromas of herbs, green apple and wisps of minerality and machine oil intro a racyy line of lime, lemon zest and white grapefruit mingling with wisps of passion fruit. This is crisp and refreshing with oodles of tang and acidity. It’s light-medium bodied with plenty to offer at the table; give it a go with ceviche, sashimi or freshly shucked oysters with a dot of hot sauce and a squirt of freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)


Strewn ‘Terroir’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 12.7% alcohol
Fresh, lively aromas of floral notes, savory herbs and notions of gooseberry herald a tang-laden, bracing line of lime cordial and lemon zest streaking across the palate, infusing the racy aftertaste. It’s light on its feet with a lengthy, crisp, refreshing finish. Pair with crumbled chèvre over arugula or grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)


Strewn ‘Select Late Harvest’ Cabernet Franc 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $19.95 13.9% alcohol
Give ice wine grapes a 2nd pressing and voila—value-packed nectar of the gods. Aromas of clove-infused cherry cordial herald medium-bodied, creamy-smooth waves of cranberry tart and plum compote balanced nicely with tangy blood orange. This delivers equal parts of sweet and tang with a delicious, lip-smacking finish. Pour with blueberry tart or sugared fresh strawberries. Great value here. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery (in Ontario) from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

White Wine

Quinta do Barco Vinho Verde 2013
DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal $13.95 11.5% alcohol
Citrus, mineral and floral notes provide segue for a lightly spritzy wash of green apple, ripe pear and tangy, mouth-cleansing lemon acidity. It’s light on its feet with a lip-smacking finish showcasing lemon-lime and wisps of passion fruit. The perfect accompaniment to fruit de mer—pan-seared fish, steamed mussels or grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)


Conca di Olevà ‘Sorilis’ Vermentino 2012 

IGP Colli del Limbara, Sardinia, Italy $23.95 12.5% alcohol 

This Vermentino, from an artisan producer in N. Sardinia, dishes up aromas of peach, tropical fruit and wisps of rosewater and red licorice. There’s a delicate wash of binned apple, white nectarine and grape flavours playing on the palate persisting through the lengthy, balanced, refreshing finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel while the finish lingers, balanced and beautiful. Lovely sipped on its own or poured with fish or shellfish. (Vic Harradine)


Dom Ponciano Vinho Verde 2012
DOC Sub-Regiao de Moncao-Melgaco, Portugal $26.95 13.5% alcohol
This dry Alvarinho has a hint of salinity and glorious aromas of freshly squeezed citrus. Displaying great body and a creamy texture, the wine delivers a long-lasting rush of flavourful citrus on a backbone of clean acidity. Well balanced, fresh and finely crafted, you’ll enjoy it well chilled with all manner of seafood. (Susan Desjardins)


Vale da Poupa Moscatel Galego Branco 2013
DOC Douro, Portugal $19.95 13.5% alcohol
This finely balanced, refreshing wine offers lovely aromas of orange blossom, mandarin orange and tropical fruit with a hint of nutmeg. Dry, round and crisp, it’s pithy and tangy with flavours of orange zest, mango and white grapefruit framed by a lively seam of acidity and underlying minerality. It finishes long and clean and would be perfect well chilled on its own or paired with pan-fried white fish. (Susan Desjardins)

Red Wine

Calherios Cruz Tinto 2011
DOC Douro, Portugal $13.95 14.5% alcohol
Opaque, inky, this is a great find for the canny wine shopper. Produced from a blend of the classic Port grapes, this young wine offers lovely aromas of ripe dark fruit, sweet baking spice and hints of vanilla and licorice. Dry, medium-full bodied, there’s depth to the dark ripe fruit, a touch of nutmeg and pepper add complexity. Well structured, balanced and flavourful, it’s long and dry yet fruity on the finish. Order a few bottles to enjoy with friends over juicy grilled burgers. (Susan Desjardins)


Calheiros Cruz ‘Reserva’ 2008
DOC Douro, Portugal $35.95 14.5% alcohol
Showing age on the brick-coloured rim, this complex, nicely structured gem jumps from the glass with lifted aromas of pipe tobacco and cedar. It’s creamy smooth, medium bodied, fully flavoured and lip-smacking good throughout; showcasing dark black cherry, cassis and dark chocolate on the palate, infusing the luxuriously lengthy aftertaste. There’s terrific value here and it’s good to go now and on to 2018. (Vic Harradine)


Calheiros Cruz ‘Reserva’ 2007
DOC Douro, Portugal $24.95 14.5% alcohol
Sourced from old vines and aged nine months in new French oak barrels, this fine, elegant wine entices with subtle aromas of rose, red fruits, vanilla, caramel, cocoa, cedar and red licorice. Dry, medium-full bodied, the silky texture and restrained underlying structure are paired with generous red fruit. Finesse combines in beautiful balance with depth and complexity. The finish is long, warm and slightly peppery. Savor this wine on its own, or serve with herbed roast of pork. (Susan Desjardins)


Heredade do Carvalhal Reserva 2007
DOC Alentejo, Portugal $21.95 13.5% alcohol
Showing evolution in colour, aromas and flavours, this wine offers aromas of prune, herbs, vanilla and cherry pie. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s smooth in texture, replaying dried fruit melding with flavours of black plum, pepper and coffee bean. Supple on the palate, the wine maintains its structure and balance, offering a persistent, dry finish. Enjoy with aged cheese or charcuterie. (Susan Desjardins)


Quinta da Castainça Colheita 2011
DOC Douro, Portugal $13.95 14.0% alcohol
This is a crowd-pleasing red for small or large gatherings. Fresh, lively aromas of cherry, red licorice and coffee bean introduce a spirited wash of sour cherry and red berry fruit delivered with good structure and lively tang. It’s nicely balanced with a dry, fruit-filled mouth-watering finish. Pair with burgers, meat-lovers pizza or grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)


Colle Bereto Chianti Classico 2011
DOC Chianti Classico, Italy $27.95 13.5% alcohol
Semi-opaque ruby, this young Chianti Classico is finely wrought and well balanced offering lovely aromas of bright red and black berries, vanilla and spice. Dry, medium bodied, there’s fine harmony of lively acidity and ripe red fruits, underlain with supple tannin and complemented by delicate notes of dried herbs and spice that evolve through the extended dry finish. A good match for bistecca fiorentina. (Susan Desjardins)


Colle Bereto ‘Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $39.95 14.0% alcohol
Rich aromas of dark, ripe berry fruit, anise and tobacco herald a fruit-flavoured surge of dark cherry, black and red currant interwoven with baking spice. This has good structure and wonderful purity of fruit, is medium bodied and nicely textured. It finishes in a blaze of bittersweet chocolate and red and black fruit enveloped in lip-smacking tang. (Vic Harradine)


Conca di Olevè ‘Salto di Gios’ Rosso 2010
IGT Colli del Limbara, Italy $34.95 13.0% alcohol
This Sardinian wine is principally Carignano blended with other local varieties to create an outstanding red. Heady aromas of ripe black fruit, dried fruit, toast, spice and vanilla presage a dry, full bodied wine displaying well-defined structure, great balance, intensity and purity of fruit. Lovely notes of spiced vanilla, licorice and dark chocolate emerge on the lengthy, engaging finish. Decant for an hour or so, serving with mushroom arrosto or wild boar. (Susan Desjardins)


Conca di Olevè ‘Logiano’ Rosso 2011
IGT Colli del Limbara, Italy $44.95 14.0% alcohol
Opaque and brooding in the glass; aromas of fig, spice and prune abound. Sweet, ripe flavours—kirsch liqueur, black plum compote and black berry jam coat the palate with silky smooth, well-textured waves. It’s full bodied with a long, sweet, fruit-filled finish balanced with red cherry and wisps of tang. (Vic Harradine)


Crooked Vines ‘Tinto’ 2011
DOC Douro, Portugal $36.95 14.5% alcohol
Involved aromas of black licorice, perfumed spice, cedar and ripe, dark berry fruit abound. Delectable waves of ripe, juicy black cherry enveloped in dark chocolate mingle with spice and red berry fruit bathing the palate. It’s complex, well structured and medium bodied with good mouth feel and a fresh, lively, fruit-filled finish. What’s not to like. (Vic Harradine)


Heredade dos Lagos HDL 2011
DOC Alentejo, Portugal $29.95 14.0% alcohol
Shy at first, this wine opens to offer beguiling notes of spiced rose, chocolate, vanilla, ripe cherry and berry. Produced from hand-picked, organic fruit, it’s a substantial, well-structured and flavourful wine. Dry, medium-full bodied, the well-defined acidity and fine-grained tannin frame tangy red and rich black fruit. Notions of spice, pepper and chocolate garnish the persistent finish. Pair with grilled rib-eye. (Susan Desjardins)


Monte do Serras ‘Jonas’ Tinto 2011
DOC Alentejo-Reguengos, Portugal $16.95 13.5% alcohol
Opaque purple, this dry, medium-bodied red displays enticing aromas of juicy cherry, black berry, dried herbs and spice. Smooth in texture yet juicy and tangy, the red and black fruit flavours mingle with toasty notes of well-integrated oak framed by supple tannin. The clean fresh finish will work well with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)


Vale da Poupa ‘Reserva’ 2011
DOC Douro, Portugal $15.95 14.0% alcohol
Produced from Port grapes, including Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz, this wine offers appealing aromas of red licorice, vanilla, ripe fruit and elusive spicy floral notes. Dry, medium bodied, the palate is awash with lovely flavours of black cherry and black berry with tangy juicy raspberry running through the finish. Well structured, with perceptible tannin, lively acidity and well-integrated oak, this has depth as well as freshness, making it a fine match for grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)


Vale da Poupa ‘Field Blend’ 2012
DOC Douro, Portugal $15.95 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of sandalwood, charred toast and dark berry fruit barrel from this tangy, racy gem. Red berry fruit—strawberry, currant and cherry—bathe the palate with gusto and oodles of charm. It’s mid weight with a dry finish that’s underpinned by a solid tannin structure and good acidity throughout. Aerate/decant three hours serving with grilled seasoned steak or osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)


Rio Sol Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz 2011
Vale do Sao Francisco, Brazil $21.95 13.5% alcohol
This mid-weight, ruby-hued blend offers interesting complexity with aromas of ripe black fruit, mocha and notions of spice and pepper. Dry, medium bodied, it’s a lively textured wine with slightly grainy tannins and the fresh flavours of red and black berries with a replay of spice and pepper on the palate. A crowd pleaser, it’s a match for pasta in tomato sauce or barbequed pork. (Susan Desjardins)


Casa Agricola Rui Batel ‘Capatão 2011
DOC Douro, Portugal $14.95 14.0% alcohol
Three premium Port grapes form the backbone of this racy red blend. Aromas of cherry and floral notes precede a tang-laden river of sour cherry, pomegranate and wisps of red currant. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and spicy, crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or prawn and chouriço paella. (Vic Harradine)


Monte Das Serras ‘Monte do Desespero’ Reserva 2009
DOC Alentejo-Reguengos, Portugal $23.95 14.5% alcohol
Aged 16 months in oak, this wine has gone to the dark side—opaque, dense, it’s a vessel for toasty dark fruit, black licorice, dark chocolate and a hint of earthiness. Dry, full bodied, there’s brawn and power behind the well-defined tannin and clean acidity. This structure is matched to loads of well-ripened black berries and plum with pleasant notes of spice, dried herbs and coffee bean manifesting on the persistent dry finish. Enjoy with grilled meats, meat-based pasta or, this winter, a rich stew. (Susan Desjardins)


Wyou ‘Reserva’ Syrah-Touriga Nacional 2011 

Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal $25.95 14.5% alcohol
Rich and robust aromas abound—dark berry fruit, black pepper and wood smoke. It rolls over the palate in a silky smooth wash of deftly balanced, delectable nectar with bramble berry, juicy black cherry and black currant to the fore. It’s nicely structured and well paced with palate flavours replaying on the lingering, succulent aftertaste. It’s good to go now with no rough edges and pours well with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan