Vintages Release, 10 December 2005

We are including the scoring system explanation and icons at the end of this newsletter.

Rod was unable to attend this tasting, but should be back in fine form for January's.

Champagne

***** drink now
Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut
AOC Champagne $74.95 (158550)
A unique Champagne rosé that is not a blend of white and red wine; this is 100% Pinot Noir produced by the painstaking saignée method. All grapes were sourced from the finest (rated 100%) vineyards. Intriguing aromas of strawberry and dried cranberry form the nose while the attack is a medium-bodied mouthful of fresh red fruit and tangy notes. A serious bubbly that would stand proudly beside your turkey with all the fixings. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Gosset Grande Millésime 1999
AOC Champagne $84.95 (596973)
Toast and citrus drift from the glass of this medium-bodied vintage sparkler. There is a firm attack of sweet ripe melons and tangy lemon, followed by a persistent citrus and well balanced aftertaste. I would serve as an aperitif or with lighter hors d'oeuvres. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Pol Roger 'Extra Cuvée de Réserve' 1998
AOC Champagne $69.95 (989137)
Buttered toast and lemon lime aromatics are the precursor to this medium to full-bodied vintage white. This has lots of heft with white peach, lemon and mineral flavours that seamlessly integrate into the long clean finish. A persistent stream of small bubbles give rise to the notion this is very well made and will continue to please now to 2010. (VH)

**** drink now
Duval-Leroy 'Cuvée Design Paris' Brut
AOC Champagne $57.95 (642470)
A perennial holiday favourite that exhibits a glorious floral nose before the fleshy mouth feel and tangy zest of citrus takes over on the palate. There is more of the same on the medium-length finish along with a pleasant dollop of Granny Smith apple. This would pair equally well with ceviche or white meat appetizers. (VH)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now
Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Brut
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (616441)
An intriguing nose of brioche and white grapefruit lead the taster to a generous mousse of very fine bubbles. The flavours and creamy mouth feel are assertive with citrus and melon to the fore. This has a wonderfully persistent, well structured and cleansing finish. You would not go far wrong with a glass of this in your hand as the year turns over. (VH)

**** drink now
Château des Charmes Brut Méthode Traditionelle
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (207944)
The lovely and lifted aromatic profile consists of stone fruit, citrus and a touch of slate. There is an energetic mousse and attack with flavours of Anjou pear and green apple reaching out. The finish is medium in length and clean. The price to quality balance is tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Taittinger Domaine Carneros Brut Méthode Champenoise 2000
Napa Valley $27.95 (301655)
Mushroom and yeasty notes waft from the glass of this light-bodied vintage offering. This has a racy quality through its flavour profile of citrus and mineral tang. It is well balanced and hangs on with a medium-length finish of grapefruit and green apples. Would pair well with smoked salmon or goat cheese. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Roger Luquet Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (957894)
The nose is fragrant and alive with nutty and citrus notes. It is crisp and clean on the palate and the finish with zesty dollops of lemon and white grapefruit. This light-bodied white bubbly is the perfect foil to salty cuisine. e.g. Caesar salad and/or oysters (VH)

Champagne

****1/2 drink or cellar
Krug 'Grande Cuvée' Champagne Brut
AOC Champagne $214.95 (349688)
Generally acknowledged to be the finest Champagne house, this does not disappoint. The involved aromatic profile includes white peach, floral (lilies) and grapefruit. The frothy mousse, creamy mouth feel and full-flavour profile (sweet pit fruit, spicy apples and pink grapefruit) mark this a winner. Pricey, but who deserves the best more than you? Drink now to 2012. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Bollinger 'La Grande Année' Champagne 1997
AOC Champagne $129.95 (145169)
The lifted aromas include spice, nuts and a yeasty characteristic. This full-bodied gem is creamy and quite stunning in its full-bore delivery of fresh tropical (peach, melon) fruit. The bubbles are fine and consistent and the finish is lengthy, cleansing and luxurious. Drink now to 2012 with your favourite seafood appetizers and best friend(s). (VH)

Port

****1/2 cellar
Cockburn's Quinta dos Canais Vintage Port 2001
DOC Porto $49.95 (677807)
Oodles of tar, chocolate and juicy raspberry aromas blast from this fruit bomb. The mouth-filling nectar displays chewy tannins, black, ripe fruit and more dark chocolate. This needs a little more time to calm down, drink 2010 to 2025, but will be well worth the wait. There is balance, structure and once it comes together, elegance. (VH)

**** drink now
Delaforce 'His Eminence's Choice' 10-Year-Old Tawny Port
DOC Porto $16.95 (282392) 375 ml
The very aromatic and involved nose of (burnt sugar, green tea and nutty nuances) forms a lovely segue to this plushly textured, unctuous aged Tawny. The flavours are reminiscent of a spicy Xmas cake with a side of rich butter sauce. Serve slightly chilled on its own, or with crème caramel. In a convenient size for two persons. (VH)

Dessert Wine

***** drink now
Montellori Vin Santo 1997
DOC Bianco dell'Empolese, Tuscany, Italy $33.95 (662569) 500 ml
Simply the best Vin Santo I have tasted through Vintages in several years. Vinified by drying the grapes for several months on straw mats to concentrate sugars and flavours before being pressed and fermented. Traditionally bottled then tasted by children at Easter Mass hence the name - Holy wine. Marmalade and Sherry-like aromas lead the way to a full flavoured (orange zest, peach marmalade, roasted nuts) beauty. The lengthy and tangy finish cleans it all up perfectly. Try dunking biscotti (if your mother's not watching) for a hedonistic experience. (VH)

Canada - Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château des Charmes St. Davids Bench Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (453415)
An intense Cabernet Franc with saturated fruit. Look for all the flavour character of excellent Niagara Cab Franc: ripe dark fruit, spice, smoke, and cedar, with the lightest hints of green pepper. With good, ripe tannins, it's nicely layered, well structured, and has a long, rich finish. Drink this now with grilled lamb, or tuck it away for another five years. (RP)

***** cellar
Stratus Cabernet Franc 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $32.00 (665034)
Red currant, smoke and mint whoosh from the glass of this stunner. Gobs of juicy sweet black fruit flavours are wrapped around ripe, but perceptible tannin and beautifully balancing acidity. The finish is fruit forward (cherries, plums) and lengthy. This has impeccable balance, elegant structure and will drink extremely well 2008 to 2012. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Quail's Gate 'Limited Release' Merlot 2003
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (639633)
An interesting aromatic profile of spiced cherry pie filling and black plum greet the taster. There is additional rich black bramble berry fruit on the palate coupled with spiced cake nuances. The long sweet finish is spectacular with Bing cherries and mocha to the fore. Drink now to 2010 with marinated (Asian spices) fruit-stuffed pork tenderloin. (VH)

U.S.A. - White Wine

Washington State

**** drink or cellar
L'Ecole No. 41 Semillon 2004
Columbia Valley $24.95 (982157)
A distinctive burnt buttered toast and honey nose wafts from the glass of this white (86% Semillon, 14% Sauvignon Blanc) "Bordeaux blend". Medium to full-bodied, it is also full of flavour with sweet tropical fruit and zesty citrus predominant. The long tangy finish begs for grilled firm (tuna, sword) fish and a drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

U.S.A. - Red Wine

California

***** drink or cellar
Cline 'Ancient Vines' Carignane 2004
Contra Costa County $19.95 (943142)
This rich and complex monster is not for the faint of heart. Look for aromas of currants, black licorice and bacon that lead to a fruit bomb of flavours including cassis, chocolate and tar. A mouth-filling experience that also delivers on the huge finish. It is lengthy and luxurious with more juicy black fruit. It has balance, verve and is very well priced. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Napa Valley $74.95 (189795)
A nicely aged Cab that is drinking well now and will until 2009. A typical nose of cassis, plums with a hint of mint. The flavour profile is quite involved and delicious, delivering Bing cherries, cranberries and more subtle nuances of strawberries and dark Belgian chocolate. This is all well integrated with soft tannins. Try with navarin of lamb. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Virgin Vines Shiraz 2004
California $14.95 (674531)
Cranberry and Montmorency cherry aromatics lead the way to this newcomer. The flavours consist of black raspberry plus a generous dollop of tangy zest. There is more of the same on the well balanced finish. This is an honest and straightforward Shiraz that will pair well with the red meat you serve around your house on week nights. (VH)

Washington State

***1/2 cellar
Hedges 'CMS' Cabernet/Merlot/Syrah 2003
Columbia Valley $17.95 (948992)
The lifted nose of cedar, spiced cherries and red licorice is a lovely segue to this medium-bodied quaffer. The palate is washed with chunky tannins, freshly picked strawberry and cranberry flavours whilst the finish offers the same with a touch of sweet black fruit. Drink 2007 to 2012 with Veal Parmigiano. (VH)

Chile - Red Wine

***** drink or cellar
Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Puente Alto, Maipo Valley $49.95 (315176)
Doing everything meticulously correct (hand picked, French oak, low yields) has helped fashion this outstanding wine. The very involved aromatic profile includes smoke, oak, cherries and tar. This heavily textured and concentrated red provides an embarrassment of riches with smooth as satin, but perceptible tannins, almost buried under an avalanche of juicy black fruit (cherry, bramble berry, currant) flavours. The finish offers more of the same with everything deftly balanced. Drink now to 2015. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Viña Pérez Cruz Cot Reserva 2003
Maipo Valley, Chile $22.95 (670547)
This winery is at the top of their game, crafting fine wines with verve and character. Catch the wave now before the prices climb and availability becomes impossible. Cedar, Bing cherries and chocolate aromas waft from this gorgeous red. There is an intriguingly rustic character to the huge bramble berry and spiced cherry flavours. The finish has gobs of sweet (14% alc.) fruit building layer upon layer, lasting 20 or more seconds. Low yields, a state of the art winery and a vow to produce the finest wines in Chile coalesced to produce this wine. Drink now to 2010 with the nicest person you know. (VH)

Australia - Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Brokenwood Shiraz 2002
Southeastern Australia $23.95 (960435)
The smoky, red licorice nose is quite robust and leads to a mellow medium-bodied offering with a sweet (14% alc.) flavour profile of raspberry, black cherry and spice. A well balanced effort with seamless integration of fine grained tannin, ripe fruit and reasonable acidity that carries through to the warm finish. From a fabulous winery. Drink now to 2009 with lamb daube. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Nepenthe 'The Rogue' Cabernet/Merlot/Shiraz 2003
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $17.95 (998542)
Black spicy plum, cranberry and light floral notes form the nose of this tangy red. The fruit flavours, blueberry, cranberry, sour cherry, meld nicely with the tannins and acidity. This struts its stuff on the lengthy finish. Try with pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (605741)
Currants, tar, mocha and oak form the involved aromatic profile of this medium-bodied red from a producer who never seems to miss the mark. Expect full-bore fruit (minty cassis) that carries through to the lengthy finish. It is quite concentrated and rich with firm tannins. Try this with grilled rare strip loin from now to 2010. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Torbreck 'Woodcutter's' Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (927533)
If you like Wow! wines, this is for you. It begins with a lifted nose of ripe bramble berry and toasted oak. It then becomes a hedonistic fruit bomb of rich, sweet (14.5% alc.) jammy fruit flavours (black currant and black raspberry) underpinned by spices and herbs. This has good structure and balance while the finish simply delivers more of the same. Well priced and drinking well now to 2010. Wisely sealed under screw cap. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz 2003
Coonawarra, South Australia $19.95 (433060)
A muted nose of cherries and eucalyptus can be coaxed from this medium-bodied red. The generous flavours include black plum, mint and spiced cinnamon apples. The finish is lengthy and cleans it up nicely. Drink now to 2009 with a slice of medium-rare roast beef decorated with horse radish and jus. (VH)

New Zealand - White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $19.95 (957672)
From the doyen of Marlborough SB, this has a very giving nose of passion fruit, gooseberry and nettles. It has a lovely mouth feel, almost creamy, to balance off the crisp flavours (white grapefruit, lemon zest) that are oh so lovely and clean. There is a magnificent sweet/sour tang on the finish that mark this is a lovely sipping wine and the perfect foil to goat or sheep cheese or smoked salmon with caper berries. (VH)

South Africa - White Wine

****1/2 drink now
KWV Wines Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2003
WO Coastal Region $13.95 (328559)
A very gentle nose of melon, toast and floral notes waft from the glass of this beauty. The flavours are fresh fruit and clean (citrus, lime zest and green apples) while the texture is medium-bodied. Good length to the finish as it delivers sweet apples and pears. This would pour well with roast turkey and sage dressing. Very well priced, stock up. (VH)

South Africa - Red Wine

**** cellar
Meerlust 'Rubicon' 2000
WO Stellenbosch, South Africa $39.95 (983635)
An iconic SA wine from a stellar producer. Vanilla, oak and black ripe fruit aromatics form the lifted nose. There are considerable tannins that will need some time to calm down and enough fruit flavour (Bing cherries and black plums) and tangy acidity to say the wait will be well rewarded. Try this 2010 to 2015 with boboti. (VH)

France - White Wine

Burgundy

*** drink or cellar
Domaine du Château de Meursault 2002
AOC Meursault $54.95 (520213)
An interesting nose of nutty nuances and sweet, ripe Bosc pear floats from this medium-bodied white. It has a delicate balance of fruit flavour, primarily apple, bracing tanginess from lemony bits and a velvety mouth feel. Drink now to 2010.

Loire

***1/2 drink now
Pascal Jolivet Pouilly-Fumé 2004
AOC Pouilly-Fumé $28.95 (948356)
Gooseberry and grass are evident on the lifted nose. This medium to full-bodied Sauvignon Blanc offers a mélange of crisp flavours including lemon, honeydew melon and tangy green apple. The long and zesty finish suggests a pairing with grilled trout drizzled with lemon juice. (VH)

France - Red Wine

Loire

**** drink or cellar
La Maison Audebert et Fils "Domaine du Grand Clos" 2003
AOC Bourgeuil $18.95 (664789) also 375 ml $10.95 (664771)
Cedar, toasty notes and currant aromas rip from the glass of this medium-bodied charmer. The fruit flavours, black cherry and blueberry, are richly concentrated and well integrated with the good grip (ripe, but noticeable tannins) and zesty tang. Drink now to 2010 with a serious hunk of T-bone steak, grilled rare. Would be interesting to try this in 2009 alongside the Stratus Cab Franc. (VH)

Midi

***1/2 drink now
Château Roubia 2001
AOC Minervois $13.95 (705632)
The muted aromatics are redolent of cherries and spring flowers. This is light -bodied with sour cherry and cranberry flavours coalescing to fashion a dry and tangy red that will appeal to those who tire of the jammy, over-oaked offerings from you-know-where. This is good value and would match up well with lasagna. (VH)

Rhone

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mas des Bressades Cabernet/Syrah 2003
Vin de Pays du Gard $17.95 (712174)
A perennial favourite, this gives up a nose of sweet (14.5% alc.) cherry pie filling, smoke and raspberry cough medicine. It is full-bodied, rich and plush with oodles of currant, ripe cherry and tar flavours complemented by tangy acidity and ripe tannin. In short, a fruit bomb with structure and style. The lovely finish suggests drinking on its own or with any manner of red meat from now to 2010. The price goes up over time, but not as fast as the quality. Purchase in multiples. (VH)

Germany - White Wine

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

***1/2 drink now
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 'RK' Riesling 2002
QbA Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $15.95 (733295)
I'm not a big fan of QbAs - they are allowed to add sugar, often making insipid wine - but I like this. An interesting nose, reminiscent of slate or minerals with a nice nuance of flowers. This has a nice mouth feel from ripe fruit (apple and pear) flavours and is very well balanced. The finish is medium length and cleansing. It is also well priced. (VH)

Italy - Red Wine

Puglia

**** drink or cellar
Feudi di San Gregorio "Primitivo di Manduria di Ognissole" 2003
DOC Primitivo di Manduria $17.95 (658385)
Cedar, stewed fruit and garrigue form the lifted nose of this Zinfandel-like spicy red. The texture is velvety and forms an interesting contrast to the mélange of rustic flavours (tar, bramble berries, herbs and spices) on the palate. It has a lengthy and luxurious warm (14.7% alc.) finish that would stand up to spicy, rich tomato-based pasta dishes from now to 2009. (VH)

Tuscany

***** drink or cellar
Marchese Antinori "Pian delle Vigne" 1999
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $61.95 (651141)
Rich and opulent without being blousy. A very expressive, and impressive, nose of violets, leather and black raspberry blasts from this medium-bodied gem. The flavours are intensely concentrated without being over blown and consist of cranberry, sour cherries and tar. The finish delivers more of the same and is comfortably lengthy. Buy two, one for your best wine-loving mate and one for yourself. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Ruffino "Riserva Ducale Oro" 2000
DOCG Chianti Classico $44.95 (353201)
Smoke, oak and rich black raspberries form the aromatic profile of this classy red. Chock full of spicy cherry flavours and savoury plums, it has an endearing quality that blends the oak, the firm tannin and zesty tang into a delicate balance that makes it all work. The lovely clean finish calls for seared beef tenderloin topped with boursin cheese, wrapped in phyllo pastry and baked to medium rare. Try now to 2012. (VH)

Spain - Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Miguel Torres 'Gran Sangre de Toro' Reserva 2001
DO Catalunya $15.95 (315648) also 375 ml $8.95 (733584)
Strawberry compote and leather gush from the glass of this medium-bodied red. Gobs of sweet dark berry fruit (raspberry, strawberry) flavours are wrapped around ripe tannins and a zesty finish. This hangs together extremely well and is a candidate for a multiple purchase given the price to quality balance that is tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)

**** drink now
Vicente Gandia Gran Verema 'Old Vines' Tempranillo Reserva 2000
DO Utiel-Requena $14.95 (660548)
A lovely and lifted nose, smoky black plums and tobacco, wafts from this very well priced quaffer. It is medium-bodied and well-endowed with richly concentrated sweet plum and cherry flavours that follow through seamlessly to the warm finish. Tannins are not noticeable and the entire experience is as smooth as satin. This will be good company over the winter and is so well priced you can buy a few. (VH)

Upstream in Vintages

Look for these wines in future Vintages releases

Spring 2006

**** drink or cellar
Château des Charmes St. David's Bench Vineyard Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (453431)
An involved nose of Bing cherry and mint wafts from this full to medium-bodied charmer. There are ladles full of ripe black raspberry and spiced black plum flavours plus nice cassis notes that are wrapped around a firm tannin structure. The finish is more of the same with a dollop of zest to keep it well balanced. Drink now to 2012 with rack of lamb. (VH)

June 2006

***** drink now
Château des Charmes St. David's Bench Vineyard Viognier 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95
From the beguiling nose (honeysuckle, apricot and peach) to the lengthy and luxurious finish, this is a stunner. Sweet and warm tropical fruit flavours abound in this velvety, almost creamy, medium-bodied offering. There is a delightful verve to this with a tangy zest integrating seamlessly with the fruit-driven finish. Stock up, before it's gone. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Look for these new wines or new vintages in the LCBO

Australia

****1/2 drink now
De Bartoli Deen Vat 7 Chardonnay 2004
Australia $14.95 (598896)
Sweet, ripe tropical fruit, honeydew melon, peaches, plus leesy aromas drift from the lovely nose of this medium-bodied white. There is a mélange of flavours including spiced orange, green apples and citrus and it all cleans up with more fruit and zest on the tangy finish. Deftly handled oak help make this a delicious and well-priced wine. (VH)


**** drink now
Mad Fish Shiraz 2003
Western Australia $15.95 (588855)
A rich, intense, full-fruit Shiraz with that luscious flavour that's a blend of concentrated black berry, cherry, and plum. Look for notes of black pepper, spice, coffee, and a hint of eucalyptus. It's a stand-out among Shirazes at this price, and a winner with barbecued lamb and grilled root vegetables. (RP)

Canada

**** drink now
Hillebrand Trius Brut
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (451641)
Made by the "Classical Method" (I think they mean "Classic Method," but I'm probably a pedantic snob), this is very well made and represents very good value for a quality sparkling wine. It has solid fruit flavours (apple, peach, pear), good structure, and an attractive mousse. Sip it as a pre-dinner appetite-whetter or pair it with spicy dishes or appetizers. (RP)

France

**** drink now
Château Bonnet Réserve 2001
AOC Bordeaux $16.85 (99044)
This is very solid Bordeaux at a really very good price. It's not overly complex, but it offers a nice range of red fruit and berry flavours with notes of spice and vanilla. It's dry, well balanced, and has a good tannic edge that adds interest. It goes well with a range of red meat dishes, and it's versatile enough to serve with a substantial party buffet. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Château Canet 2001
AOC Minervois $12.90 (320598)
If you like your red wine with intensely-flavoured ripe fruit with complex spicy, gamey notes, perceptible tannins and a bit of edginess, here's one for you. It's really excellent value. Buy it by the armful for those wintery days and nights you're trapped inside and need reassurance that memories of sun and warmth aren't delusions brought on by extended confinement. It's a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsaut, and it radiates the southern French sun that ripened the grapes. Just grill a slab of red meat and some simple vegetables and uncork on this. Delicious. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Fat Bastard Chardonnay 2004
Vin de Pays d'Oc $14.95 (563130)
Another from the Fat Bastard portfolio, and again (like the Shiraz and the Merlot) it has almost enough substance to justify its name. This is a pretty nice Chardonnay, with good tropical fruit flavours with hints of peach and vanilla. It's well balanced for a clean texture that lets you pair with roast poultry or roast pork tenderloin with fruit salsa. (RP)

Italy

***1/2 drink now
Cantina Sociale Prosecco di Valdobbiadene 2004
DOC Prosecco di Valdobbiadene $14.15 (340570)
A medium-bodied sparkling wine that delivers quite rich, fruity flavours in the tropical-peach zones. It's dry, well balanced, and ends with a clean, crisp finish. It's not a hard-edged, astringent sparkling wine, but it might be a little too fruity for sipping alone. It goes very well with quite spicy Thai food. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Cesari Amarone 2001
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $32.95 (426718)
Smoke, black currants and nutty aromas form the lifted nose of this medium to full-bodied gem. It is a textbook expression of this style of wine - rich concentrated black fruit flavours wound around silky smooth tannins with a glorious sweet/sour tang on the lengthy finish. An explosion of flavours delivered in a style that is wrapped in cotton batten. As Amarones go, this is extremely well priced. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Collavini Pinot Grigio 2004
DOC Isonzo del Friuli $13.95 (33340)
You will be drawn to the passion fruit, mineral and honeyed nose. The gorgeous texture of this medium-bodied white is almost creamy, complemented by full-bore white peach and citrus fruit flavours. The intriguingly lengthy finish has ladles of peach, pear flavours that would pair up well with pork tenderloin stuffed with a dried fruit dressing. (VH)

**** drink now
F. Giordano "Borgo Reale" Primitivo 2002
DOC Primitivo di Manduria $15.70 (698886)
From the lifted nose of smoky cherries to the lovely finish, this Kosher offering has verve and lots of appeal. The assertive flavour profile includes cassis, sweet (14.5% alc.) black plums and spice while the overall expression of this crowd pleaser is gutsy and full of life. Perfect during High Holidays with garlicky grilled back ribs of beef. (VH)

**** drink now
Vitae Sangiovese 2003
IGT Puglia $10.45 (621029)
Oak and smoke blow from the glass of this aggressive red. This has guts and verve in reserve and is not for the faint of heart. Black currant and raspberry flavours abound while the tannins add grip and structure. There is a spine of pleasing acidity that gives it balance while the finish is lengthy and a bit rustic. Can't imagine how it delivers all this for the price, but it does! Tame it down with pasta puttenesca. (VH)

Portugal

**** drink or cellar
DFJ Vinhos "Pedras Do Monte" Cabernet Sauvignon / Tinta Roriz 2001
DO Estramadura $9.95 (620658)
This has a funky nose of forest floor, rose petals and leather and really puts it to the floor on the palate with great dollops of black, ripe juicy fruit (cherries and raspberries) flavours and ripe, but perceptible tannin. The finish is lengthy, luxurious and fruit-driven. Big on the Wow! factor at a very reasonable price. Try with chourico - spicy Portuguese sausage now to 2009. (VH)

Port

**** drink now
Warre's Warrior Special Reserve Port
DOC Porto $15.95 (170928)
You have to have a bottle of Port on hand during the holidays for emergency use in case of an attack of rich blue cheese or mixed roasted nuts. This is a very good value that does the trick very well. It delivers quite luxurious texture with a warm mouthfeel, and flavours of red fruit and berries and dark grapes, with notes of spice and licorice. It's just what you need as you sit and reflect on the year past and the election to come. (RP)

Spain

**** drink or cellar
Bodegas Campo Viejo Savin Crianza 2001
DO Rioja $13.95 (620997)
Sweet dried coconut and hints of spiced black plums form the aromatic profile of this medium-bodied red. The drying tannins are well balanced against the sweet core of Bing cherry and red currant flavours that showcase this Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo blend. More of the same on the finish make this a well priced offering that has structure and a touch of elegance. Try with paella now to 2009. (VH)

U.S.A.

**** drink or cellar
Beringer "Founders' Estate" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
California $19.95 (534263)
A Cab from one of the best recent vintages in California for the variety. It delivers a core of concentrated dark fruit and berries from front to back, along with a range of spice and pepper notes. The tannins are ripe and sweet, firm enough to allow for moderate cellaring, easily manageable enough to let you drink it now. Pair it up with grilled or roasted (medium-rare) red meat. (RP)

New in Ontario Wineries

**** drink or cellar
By Chadsey's Cairns Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Ontario $24.00
Made exclusively from grapes grown on the estate in Prince Edward County, this wine is all the more impressive in that the vines date back only to 2001 and 2002. Give them a few more years, and they'll perform really well. As it is, this Pinot delivers a very attractive range of cherry flavours (I detected red, black, sweet, sour) with appealing herbal notes and a hint of black pepper. It's medium weight with a solid dry texture, and pairs well with roast veal chop. Order at www.bychadseyscairns.com. (RP)

***1/2 drink or cellar
By Chadsey's Cairns Cabernet Franc 2004
VQA Ontario $20.00
The grapes for this were sourced from Guy Plamondon's vineyard at Consecon, not far from By Chadsey's Cairns. The wine shows good Cab Franc character, with solid red fruit flavours, some spiciness and a nice note of tobacco leaf. It's medium bodied and will go well with roast turkey, sage stuffing, and cranberry sauce. Order from www.bychadseyscairns.com. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs "Proprietors' Grand Reserve" Meritage 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (594002)
Jackson-Triggs is doing everything right in their upper-tier wines, and the "Proprietors' Grand Reserve" series is excellent across the board. This blend of 42% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc delivers lush, rich dark fruit with lovely accents of spice, pepper, coffee and cedar. The texture is big and full, and the tannins are firm but allow easy drinking now. You'll want a piece of red meat with this. It's available in Wine Rack stores and in some Vintages stores, too. (RP)

New in Restaurants - CORRECTION

An incorrect e-mail address was given for three South African wines listed in this section in the November 26 release Newsletter. Lammershoek and Viljoensdrift wines can be ordered from Bokke Inc. at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3
stars Wines well worth trying
2

stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1
star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half
star Represents a half star
2
glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or
cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar

Cheers,

Vic and Rod