Winecurrent
March 10, 2014 Newsletter

The California Wine Fair dates are always worth recording—it visits nine centres across Canada from coast to coast. Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets now @ www.calwine.ca and have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).

Sample taste from over 400 wines from more than 130 top California wineries for just the admission price!

There are NO tickets sold at the door!

The 34th annual California Wine Fair moves across Canada on the following dates:

  • Tuesday, April 1st: Quebec City, Espace Dalhousie 
  • Wednesday, April 2nd: Montreal, Quebec, Le Centre Sheraton 
  • Friday, April 4th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa 
  • Monday, April 7th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York 
  • Tuesday, April 22nd: Vancouver, British Columbia, Vancouver Convention Centre 
  • Wednesday, April 23rd: Calgary, Alberta, Hotel Arts 
  • Thursday, April 24th: Edmonton, Alberta, Shaw Conference Centre 
  • Wednesday, May 7th: Moncton, New Brunswick, Casino New Brunswick 
  • Thursday, May 8th: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Pier 21  

Susan Desjardins – tasted, spat and wrote the majority of reviews for this release which showcases California wine and a ‘Handcrafted Wine’ feature. Vic returns for the April 26th Vintages Release tasting.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box to see only particular areas. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: March 15, 2014

Feature: California Wine

****1/2drink or cellar
Cade Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Howell Mountain, Napa Valley $99.95 (325027) 14.8% alcohol
Inky, opaque, this is your go to wine for power, weight and substance. There’s complexity on the nose and palate—lifted aromas of cassis, black fruit, smoky toast, baking spice and a touch of vanilla entice. Dry, full bodied, it’s brawny and youthful, richly fruity and intense, the tannins frame tangy raspberry and black cherry. There’s peppery warmth and lovely notes of spicy dark toast on the long-lasting finish. Pair with grilled rib-eye or cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellar
La Crema Pinot Noir 2012
Los Carneros $44.95 (58024) 14.5% alcohol
Deep ruby and highly aromatic, this is a big, intense Pinot presenting showy aromas of earth, smoke, sweet kitchen spice and ripe, black cherry and red berry. Dry and medium-full bodied, it’s round and satiny, the ripe fruit coating the palate with flavours of tangy raspberry and sun-kissed black cherry touched by notes of vanilla and spice. The finish is dry, long, warm and fruity. Fabulous and an excellent choice to pair with hoisin-glazed salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink or cellar
Mer Soleil ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2011 

Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County $34.95 (958975) 14.5% alcohol 

This is hi-toned California Chardonnay with plenty of toasty oak, ripe, luscious fruit and charm. Toffee apple, exotic spice and toasty oak on the nose, it washes over the palate in waves with sweet vanilla, ripe apple and a mélange of tropical fruit to the fore. This is rich, robust and satin textured with a gusher of flavour infusing the lingering aftertaste—caramel apple, oaky bits and hints of racy citrus acidity. Pour with smoked, pulled pork or smoked, grilled duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2drink or cellar
Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Santa Cruz Mountains $59.95 (89284) 13.0% alcohol
Principally Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine was blended with Merlot and a touch of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, all adding to the complexity of aromas and flavours. Deep ruby purple, notes of cassis, ripe black cherry, cedar, smoke and exotic spice mingle to create an enticing nose. There’s good structure and depth on the palate, the tannins well-integrated yet firmly framing the ripe, lively red and black fruits. A notion of toasty oak, cocoa, and a whiff of spice persist through the long, dry finish. Serve with grilled meats or purchase for long-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellar
Ridge Lytton Springs 2011
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $49.95 (982413) 14.4% alcohol
Dense and inky, this unusual blend of Zinfandel, Petite Syrah and Carignan offers great balance, weight and texture. Sweet, spicy ripened fruit harmonizes with vanilla, red rose and stone dust. Dry, on the full side of medium bodied, the tangy texture and firm, well-integrated tannins are a perfect foil for the full dark fruit flavours, notes of toast, black licorice and roasted herbs. Appealingly complex, dry and lasting on the finish, this is a wine to contemplate and savour. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink or cellar
Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $54.95 (60020) 14.2% alcohol
Aromas of cassis, earth, dried herbs and a hint of graphite mingle on the nose of this dry, full-bodied wine. It offers a clean texture and a subtle frame of ripe tannins. The palate replays the rich dark fruit and herbs, a note of dark chocolate-coated almonds adding further appeal on the long, dry finish. Enjoy with rich meat dishes or cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)

Feature: Handcrafted Wine

****drink or cellar

Lailey Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
VQA Niagara River $24.95 (591370) 13.5% alcohol
Deftly crafted and deep-ruby garnet, this Cabernet offers enticingly complex aromas of earth, flowers, spice, berry, vanilla and a hint of red licorice. Dry and medium bodied, the ripe red berry flavours combine with a note of roasted red pepper, spice and dried herbs. There’s a lovely freshness to the texture, defined tannins for balance and a fine, dry, long-lasting finish. An excellent value and a fine match for beef carpaccio. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink or cellar
Rustenberg RM Nicholson 2010
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (278390) 14.5% alcohol
Inky and opaque, this award-winning blend leads with Cabernet, Shiraz and Merlot offering intense and enticing aromas of black berry and fruit, dried herbs and spicy red rose. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s nicely balanced, rich and smooth in texture and loaded with dark ripe fruit garnished with notes of vanilla, white pepper, toast and dark chocolate. Enjoy the round, ripe, fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellar
Albert Morot Beaune Toussaints 1er Cru 2009
AOC Beaune $59.95 (256816) 13.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this lovely Burgundy offers classic floral notes, earth, red fruit, spice and a touch of red licorice. Dry, medium bodied, the tangy red fruit shines through—raspberry, currant and cherry. The tannins are subtle, the texture silky, the balance refined. Finishing long and fresh, this is a beautifully crafted wine that will age long term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellar
Castello di Ama Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $35.95 (39768) 13.5% alcohol
Ruby hued, this finely honed Chianti Classico offers earthy notes, red plum, berry fruit and savoury herbs on the nose. Dry, medium bodied, there’s a lovely balance of ripe tannins, clean acidity, raspberry and lively black berry fruit, as well as a tangy, fresh texture right through the lengthy, dry finish. A great match for meat-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

****drink or cellar
Domaine de Vaugondy ‘Brut’ Vouvray
AOC Vouvray $15.95 (154567) 12.5% alcohol
A deep golden tone, this sparkling Chenin Blanc offers leesy, yeasty notes paired with ripe orchard fruit. Dry and crisp in texture, the abundant fine mousse highlights the flavours of citrus, pear and apple, delivering a zesty tang right through a lengthy, dry finish. Sip or serve with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

***1/2drink now
Cave Spring ‘Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay Musqué 2012
VQA Beamsville Bench $15.95 (246579) 14.0% alcohol
Displaying attractive aromas of honeydew melon, peach and honeysuckle, this rich, weighty wine is overflowing with ripe fruit flavours—pineapple, ripe apple, pear and a replay of melon—highlighted by a hint of spice. Quite luscious and delicious, it’s warm, ripe and sweetly fruity. Serve it well chilled with pan-fried white fish. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

****drink or cellar
Lailey Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
VQA Niagara River $24.95 (591370) 13.5% alcohol
Deftly crafted and deep-ruby garnet, this Cabernet offers enticingly complex aromas of earth, flowers, spice, berry, vanilla and a hint of red licorice. Dry and medium bodied, the ripe red berry flavours combine with a note of roasted red pepper, spice and dried herbs. There’s a lovely freshness to the texture, defined tannins for balance and a fine, dry, long-lasting finish. An excellent value and a fine match for beef carpaccio. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

****drink or cellar
Mer Soleil ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2011 

Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County $34.95 (958975) 14.5% alcohol 

This is hi-toned California Chardonnay with plenty of toasty oak, ripe, luscious fruit and charm. Toffee apple, exotic spice and toasty oak on the nose, it washes over the palate in waves with sweet vanilla, ripe apple and a mélange of tropical fruit to the fore. This is rich, robust and satin textured with a gusher of flavour infusing the lingering aftertaste—caramel apple, oaky bits and hints of racy citrus acidity. Pour with smoked, pulled pork or smoked, grilled duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

****drink or cellar
Simi Chardonnay 2012
Sonoma County $19.95 (673806) 13.5% alcohol
Round, yet clean and fresh, this finely crafted Chardonnay offers lovely aromas and flavours of pear, apple pie, melon, lemon and lightly toasted nut. Well-integrated oak and fresh acidity create nice balance through the fruity finish. It offers quality and value in a well-defined package. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

****1/2drink or cellar
Cade Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Howell Mountain, Napa Valley $99.95 (325027) 14.8% alcohol
Inky, opaque, this is your go to wine for power, weight and substance. There’s complexity on the nose and palate—lifted aromas of cassis, black fruit, smoky toast, baking spice and a touch of vanilla entice. Dry, full bodied, it’s brawny and youthful, richly fruity and intense, the tannins frame tangy raspberry and black cherry. There’s peppery warmth and lovely notes of spicy dark toast on the long-lasting finish. Pair with grilled rib-eye or cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellar
La Crema Pinot Noir 2012
Los Carneros $44.95 (58024) 14.5% alcohol
Deep ruby and highly aromatic, this is a big, intense Pinot presenting showy aromas of earth, smoke, sweet kitchen spice and ripe, black cherry and red berry. Dry and medium-full bodied, it’s round and satiny, the ripe fruit coating the palate with flavours of tangy raspberry and sun-kissed black cherry touched by notes of vanilla and spice. The finish is dry, long, warm and fruity. Fabulous and an excellent choice to pair with hoisin-glazed salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellar
Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Santa Cruz Mountains $59.95 (89284) 13.0% alcohol
Principally Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine was blended with Merlot and a touch of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, all adding to the complexity of aromas and flavours. Deep ruby purple, notes of cassis, ripe black cherry, cedar, smoke and exotic spice mingle to create an enticing nose. There’s good structure and depth on the palate, the tannins well-integrated yet firmly framing the ripe, lively red and black fruits. A notion of toasty oak, cocoa, and a whiff of spice persist through the long, dry finish. Serve with grilled meats or purchase for long-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellar
Ridge Lytton Springs 2011
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $49.95 (982413) 14.4% alcohol
Dense and inky, this unusual blend of Zinfandel, Petite Syrah and Carignan offers great balance, weight and texture. Sweet, spicy ripened fruit harmonizes with vanilla, red rose and stone dust. Dry, on the full side of medium bodied, the tangy texture and firm, well-integrated tannins are a perfect foil for the full dark fruit flavours, notes of toast, black licorice and roasted herbs. Appealingly complex, dry and lasting on the finish, this is a wine to contemplate and savour. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink or cellar
Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 

Sonoma County $21.95 (226944) 13.5% alcohol 

This opaque, ruby-hued gem radiates aromas of red and black berries, herbs, spice and vanilla. Dry and full bodied, the firm underlying structure creates lovely tension while framing the rich berry and plum fruit. A touch of well-integrated oak garnishes the lasting, dry finish. Crafted with restraint and elegance, this wine is a match for rare, red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink or cellar
Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $54.95 (60020) 14.2% alcohol
Aromas of cassis, earth, dried herbs and a hint of graphite mingle on the nose of this dry, full-bodied wine. It offers a clean texture and a subtle frame of ripe tannins. The palate replays the rich dark fruit and herbs, a note of dark chocolate-coated almonds adding further appeal on the long, dry finish. Enjoy with rich meat dishes or cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

****1/2drink or cellar
Santa Carolina ‘Reserva de Familia’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Maipo Valley $18.95 (684597) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s outstanding value, an opaque, inky wine that entices with intense aromas of ripe dark fruit, spice, cedar and earth. Dry, full bodied, it displays a finely crafted balance of firm yet fine-grained tannins, well-integrated oak, ripe berry fruit, and interesting notes of pipe tobacco, tapenade and dark chocolate. The finish is dry and persistent. Wonderful complexity and well-defined structure, you’ll want to purchase several bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2drink or cellar
Thorn-Clarke ‘Shotfire’ Quartage 2011
Barossa $21.95 (24091) 14.5% alcohol
Principally composed of the Cabernets, blended with Malbec and Merlot, this flavourful blend offers wonderful aromas of eucalyptus, cassis, vanilla, sweet spice and mocha. Dry, full bodied, it’s loaded with blackberry, pepper, sweet spice and balsamic notes with a note of menthol evolving on the palate. It’s very well structured and harmonious with a long, warm, fruity finish that yet retains freshness. Enjoy. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

***1/2drink now
Wither Hills ‘Wairau Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012 

Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (919514) 13.0% alcohol 

Opening with a sharp nose of piquant spice, green nettles, grassy notes and tinned green peas, this streaks across the palate with great nerve and verve—key lime, gooseberry and lemon curd. This line of acidity dominates the finish and aftertaste. Not for the faint of heart or faint of palate. Pour with green salad sprinkled with verjus and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

****drink now
Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc 2011
WO Western Cape $14.95 (675421) 13.5% alcohol
Floral, herbal notes, sweet spice and luscious melon and stone fruit dance beautifully together on the alluring nose. The palate replays lovely stone fruit and spice combining with an elusive notion of white flowers. A seam of fresh, lively acidity offers balance to the sweet ripe fruit, persisting through the tangy finish. Enjoy with roast pork. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

****drink or cellar
Rustenberg RM Nicholson 2010
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (278390) 14.5% alcohol
Inky and opaque, this award-winning blend leads with Cabernet, Shiraz and Merlot offering intense and enticing aromas of black berry and fruit, dried herbs and spicy red rose. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s nicely balanced, rich and smooth in texture and loaded with dark ripe fruit garnished with notes of vanilla, white pepper, toast and dark chocolate. Enjoy the round, ripe, fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

****drink now
Domaine du Colombier Chablis 2012
AOC Chablis $21.95 (366419) 12.5% alcohol
Straw-hued this is classic Chablis displaying notes of citrus, mineral and a touch of stone fruit. It’s dry and medium bodied with a clean, tangy texture, notes of green apple, lemon-lime and a pure, refreshing finish. Serve with fresh seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink or cellar
Saint-Roch ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Grenache Blanc/Marsanne 2012
AP Côtes du Roussillon $15.95 (175322) 13.0% alcohol
Yellow-green, straw hued, this lovely blend combines floral notes and lemon-lime with a hint of tropical fruit. Dry, medium bodied, it’s crisp and juicy with lemon-lime to the fore complemented by notes of pear and stone fruit. Impressive and quite substantial it finishes with a flourish and a touch of warmth. Excellent value, serve it with trout almandine or chicken with a medley of wild mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

****drink or cellar
Patrick Lesec ‘Cuvée Suzon’ Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages Beaumes-de-Venises 2011
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages Beaumes-de-Venises $19.95 (357053) 15.0% alcohol
This blend of Grenache and Syrah offers great depth of fruit and good structure. The nose abounds with aromas of ripe fruit, spice, vanilla and a whiff of smoke adding to the allure. Dry, medium-full bodied, round and smooth, the abundant fruit replays on the palate, matched to tangy, spicy peppery notes. Very appealing and approachable, there’s remarkable heat on the long, richly fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellar
Albert Morot Beaune Toussaints 1er Cru 2009
AOC Beaune $59.95 (256816) 13.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this lovely Burgundy offers classic floral notes, earth, red fruit, spice and a touch of red licorice. Dry, medium bodied, the tangy red fruit shines through—raspberry, currant and cherry. The tannins are subtle, the texture silky, the balance refined. Finishing long and fresh, this is a beautifully crafted wine that will age long term. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2drink or cellar
Castello di Ama Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $35.95 (39768) 13.5% alcohol
Ruby hued, this finely honed Chianti Classico offers earthy notes, red plum, berry fruit and savoury herbs on the nose. Dry, medium bodied, there’s a lovely balance of ripe tannins, clean acidity, raspberry and lively black berry fruit, as well as a tangy, fresh texture right through the lengthy, dry finish. A great match for meat-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellar
Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2009 

DOCG Valpolicella Classico $36.95 (995910) 15.0% alcohol 

Rich + depth + concentration + delectable = hedonistic, and this is all of that. Alluring aromas of tar, dark berry fruit and anise mingle with roasted herbs and spice box. Palate-coating, sweet, ripe mulberry and black cherry interweave with dark bittersweet chocolate, dried currants and spice—full-bodied, fully textured. The finish replays along with lip-smacking tang and oodles of style and charm. Perfect with shards of aged, hard cheese: Cheddar or Parmigiano Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)

****drink or cellar
Tenuta Stefano Farina ‘Le Brume’ Langhe 2009
DOC Langhe $17.95 (360075) 14.5% alcohol
Aged in French oak, this garnet-hued blend of Barbera, Nebbiolo and Merlot offers evolved aromas of preserved cherry, blackcurrant jelly, sweet spice, vanilla and smoke. Dry, smooth, it’s quite soft, round and savoury with flavours of ripe red fruit and smoky toast. This is a food wine to be paired with charcuterie, aged cheeses and grilled vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: Red Wine

****drink or cellar
Borges Reserva 2009
DOC Douro $21.95 (358762) 13.5% alcohol
Inky and opaque, this blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Sousão displays intense aromas of ripe black fruit, spice and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, there’s good underlying structure created by ripe tannins and lively acidity paired to black fruits, herbs and spice, vanilla and a certain earthiness. Subtly complex, full of flavour, substantial and smooth, it has a long, intensely fruity finish. Enjoy with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2drink or cellar
Aljibes Cabernet Franc 2007
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla $24.95 (358788) 13.5% alcohol
Aged 14 months in French oak, this deep-ruby Franc has a lovely freshness to its aromas of red and black berry, roasted herb and vanilla. Dry, medium bodied, it’s round, ripe, loaded with ripe berry fruit touched by notes of mineral, spice and white pepper. The structure is firm yet subtle, the finish, long, plush and fruity. If you’ve never tried Cab Franc from Spain, this is a great place to start. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan