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October 29th, 2005 Vintages Release

Australia is the featured country in this release, and the wines are listed by region, from west (Western Australia) to east (New South Wales).

****1/2 drink now
Western Range "Lot 88" Cabernet-Shiraz 2003
Western Australia $16.95 (961268)
A beautiful, big Cab-Shiraz blend at a good price. It not only has all the rich dark fruit you'd expect, but it's well structured, nicely-balanced and approaches a degree of elegance, as well. It's a natural for rich, even spicy, red meat dishes, and it's priced for buying by the half-dozen. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sandalford Cabernet-Merlot 2002
Western Australia $20.95 (660951)
This has the best qualities of a classic Bordeaux blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc). The fruit is ripe and well assembled, it shows good complexity, and the wine is well structured, with the fruit in good relationship with the acidity and tannins. A solid medium weight and long finish complete the picture. It's very well priced for the quality and makes a fine partner for grilled lamb. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cape Mentelle "Trinders" Cabernet Merlot 2003
Margaret River $24.95 (452508)
This is one of my favourites from Western Australia, and I've been buying it for years. The 2003 vintage shows the same style as earlier vintages, with perhaps a little more fruit concentration-and that means intense black fruit and berries, with notes of vanilla, mint, and coffee bean. It has good structure and excellent balance, but right now the tannins are big and I suggest holding it for another two or three years, then drinking it (with grilled lamb or kangaroo) during the following five. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Cape Mentelle Shiraz 2003
Margaret River $29.95 (452516)
A heady nose of coffee and cassis sets the stage for this medium to full-bodied gem from a premium WA producer. The flavour profile includes a mélange of rich, concentrated cherry and currant while the oak is deftly handled, adding a welcomed nuance to the lovely character and structure of the wine. This shows its maritime climate roots with no sign of jammy flavours or over-the-top alcohol. Pour alongside braised veal shanks with porcini mushrooms. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Evans & Tate Shiraz 2002
Margaret River $24.95 (606905)
Spice, plums, mint and toasty notes intertwine to produce a beguiling set of aromatics. Rich and robust super-ripe black cherries and smoky black plums are wrapped around firm, but fine-grained tannins. The supple mouth-feel carries through to the lengthy finish on this medium-bodied gem that shows a similar sweet, fruit-forward flavour profile with some nice peppery notes added on. This is a showy, well balanced red, drinking now to 2015. Try with rare, grilled rack of lamb. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Sandalford Riesling 2004
Margaret River $20.95 (660944)
A splendid aromatic nose of lemon zest, mineral and a hint of petrol waft from a white that hails from a climate much warmer than ours. There is a plush and supple mouth-feel to this that is juxtaposed perfectly to the zesty spine of acidity, stone fruit flavours and cleansing finish. It has been wisely sealed under screw cap to ensure it stays this way. Try this with mustard-encrusted, clove-infused baked ham. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Bridgewater Mill "3 Districts" Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Adelaide Hills/Coonawarra/Clare Valley $18.95 (661074)
Nose-tingling aromatics of capsicum, nettles and gooseberry and a bracing spine of zesty citrus run the entire length of this white. The finish is laser-like and begs for strong goat's cheese, grilled slightly and served over a mess of mescalun. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Wolf Blass "Gold Label" Chardonnay 2004
Adelaide Hills $21.95 (606186)
Smoke and oak blow off the glass with nice touches of tropical fruit. This is a big bruiser of a white, medium to full-bodied with gorgeous pineapple, vanilla and ripe peach flavours leading to a finish that is similar in flavour with a generous lashing of oak piled on. This would be well matched to your Christmas bird served with all the fixings. Drink now to 2010. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Petaluma Chardonnay 2002
Piccadilly Valley $34.95 (661082)
The fruit flavours here tend to the less ripe zone of the tropical spectrum-white peach, apricot pit, just-ripe melon-set off by good acidity. It's a refreshing change from some overblown Chardonnays and reflects the cooler growing conditions in this region just outside Adelaide. It's ready to drink now, but it can be cellared two or three years. (RP)

***** drink now
St. Hallett "GST" Grenache/Shiraz/Touriga 2004
Barossa Valley $23.95 (660910)
This G-51%, S-42% T-7% red blend is a full-bore fruit bomb that starts its olfactory attack with sour cherry, cranberry and spicy brioche notes then encircles the palate with sweet (15.8% alc.) cherry compote plus peppered and savoury currant flavours. Beautifully textured and balanced, there are no rough edges to this. The finish is lengthy, luxurious and as smooth as satin. This would be well served with osso bucco and mushroom risotto. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wolf Blass "Gold Label" Shiraz 2002
Barossa Valley $29.95 (590273)
Big in weight, juicy and tangy in texture, and fruit-forward and complex in aroma and flavours. Look for dominant flavours of blackberry, dark plum, and black cherry, with quite intense spice and peppery notes. It all comes together very successfully and it's under screwcap to ensure that it reaches your glass the way the winemaker intended. Good drinking now, it will drink well for at least the next five years. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Jim Barry "The Cover Drive" Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Coonawarra/Clare Valley $23.95 (677476)
A cover drive is a batsman's shot in cricket (see the label of this wine), and the wine is so-called because the vines grow around an old cricket pitch in Coonawarra. (It could be worse: the wine could be called "Silly Mid-On," "Deep Backward Square Leg" or other cricket term.) Jim Barry has batted well with this Cab-not hitting a six, but a very respectable four. It's rich and sweet, with dark fruit and berry fruit, concentrated spice, and beautiful smooth texture. Pair it with richly-seasoned grilled lamb. (RP)

**** drink now
Leasingham "Bin 61" Shiraz
Clare Valley $24.95 (448241)
This perennial crowd-pleaser is a powerful reminder that Clare Valley wines take a back seat to no one. This has smoke, mulberry and peppery black licorice aromatics then gets into overdrive with currants, mint and sweet black cherries on the palate. There are firm, but ripe tannins and the finish is fruit forward and cleansing. All in all, silky smooth. (VH)

***** cellar two glasses
D'Arenberg "The Coppermine Road" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
McLaren Vale $49.95 (943399)
Rod and I rate this a superb wine. It blasts off with spiced bramble berries, gunflint and garrigue on the nose then glides along with full-bore fruit flavours of minty currant and juicy, sweet black cherry flavours. All of this is wrapped around a copious amount of firm tannin that will keep this in your cellar from 2010 to 2018. The finish is more of the same and would suggest this is perfect foil to a thick, rare, grilled t-bone steak. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
D'Arenberg "D'Arry's Original" 2002
McLaren Vale $19.95 (942904)
Floral (roses) and fruit (plum and spiced currant) aromas lead you into a gentle giant of rich, concentrated cherry and blueberry fruit flavours that are sweet (14.5 % alc.), plush and sensuous without being the least bit monochromatic. The tannins are soft and the finish is one long, leisurely dip in a pool of black ripe cherries overlaid with smooth spicy plum nuances. This is gorgeous on its own from now until 2010 or with a game bird and Port wine sauce. (VH)

**** cellar
D'Arenberg "The High Trellis" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
McLaren Vale $19.95 (943456)
From the dry 2003 vintage, a rich, saturated Cab that's still so tightly in the grip of its tannins that I'd suggest letting it soften for two or three years before drinking. It's an affordable addition to a cellar and a good cellar-starter. The flavours are rich and dark, and range from plum and cherry to chocolate and coffee bean. When you're ready to drink it, have a flavourful red meat dish to hand. (RP)

**** cellar
D'Arenberg "The Laughing Magpie" Shiraz-Viognier 2004
McLaren Vale $26.95 (936971)
Big, substantial and complex, with powerful dark fruit (black cherry, berry, spice, black pepper). It's still astringent, but the texture's heading for plush and juicy. Buy some, tuck it away out of sight for four or five years, then open a bottle and decant it a couple of hours before you light the barbecue to grill a well-marinated rack of lamb. (RP)

**** drink now
Oxford Landing Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2003
South Australia $12.95 (283689) or $6.95/375ml (657718)
Secured under screwcap to ensure those cherry and savoury aromatics are preserved until you are ready to open. The palate is robust with sour cherry and black plum flavours and enough grip to make it medium-bodied and well structured. The finish is more fruit and a delightful touch of tang to give it good balance. This is outstanding value and worthy of a multiple bottle purchase. Match to grilled burgers or pizza. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Brokenwood Semillon 2004
Hunter Valley, Australia $19.95 (657726)
An internationally-acclaimed classic from the traditional home of Australian Semillon. Tantalizing lifted notes of citrus and floral waft from the yellowy-green wine now, but in 7 or 8 years these will develop into the treasured honey, almond aromatics and flavours. This is a magnificent example of a wine to be drunk now (with oysters or lobster) in its young, fresh and exuberant stage, and to be kept another 7+ years to experience the mature wine; creamy, honeyed and rich. Fruit and acidity are in perfect balance. (VH)

***1/2 cellar
Rosemount "Hill of Gold" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Mudgee, NSW $22.95 (614800)
A muted nose of cassis and herbs float from the glass of this medium weight red from the burgeoning region of Mudgee. There are nuances of strawberry and plum flavours that are wrapped in a firm tannin structure needing some time in your cellar to soften. It finishes with a nice dollop of zest that would suggest a pairing with pasta and tomato-based sauces from 2008 to 2012. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Zilzie Viognier 2004
Victoria/New South Wales $15.95 (660936)
A very well-made and well-priced Viognier. The aromas are a bit closed, but it comes through on the palate, with classic Viognier flavours of white peach, apricot, dried fruit and a musky note. It has depth and it's well focused, and it pairs well with seared scallops or not-too-spicy pork dishes. (RP)

Fortified wine

Sherry

****1/2 drink now
Emilio Lustau "Don Nuño" Dry Oloroso
DO Jerez $28.95 (532036)
An extremely powerful nose of toasted hazelnuts and burnt sugar roar from the glass of this bone dry, dark amber gem. Oloroso sherries have a bit more brandy added, this is 20% alc., than some other styles, inhibiting the protective flor that might develop, causing them to oxidize and develop into dark coloured, very aromatic offerings. The flavour profile includes baking chocolate and concentrated nutty notes. This would pair beautifully with smoked duck breasts. Serve at room temperature. (VH)

Port

***** drink or cellar
Quinta de Noval LBV Port 1999
DOC Porto $23.95 (677815)
This is unfiltered (so watch for sediment—best to decant it) and bottled in 2005. It's a luxurious Port and extraordinary value. It's warm and spicy, with rich flavours of raisins, dried figs and prune. Pour this with aged blue cheese and mixed roasted nuts, and watch your guests peer morosely into their empty glasses until you take the hint and pour seconds. (RP)

Sparkling wine

Champagne

**** drink or cellar
Champagne Taittinger Brut Réserve
AOC Champagne $54.95 (814723)
As Christmas and New Year approach, the wave of sparkling wines rises. This is one you might want to snag early. It's particularly flavourful, with notes of red grapefruit, lemon, peach and pear, with a fine mousse and crisp acidity. The finish is good and long. Sip this while gossiping with friends before dinner, or pair it with spicy seafood appetizers. (RP)

Sparkling wine

**** drink now
Foss Marai Prosecco Extra Dry "Blue Bottle"
DOC Prosecco $18.95 (729392)
A tempting nose of floral and citrussy notes tingle the nose and provide a fitting entry to this very well-priced sparkler. Nothing complicated, but everything is in balance, from the frothy attack of tropical fruit flavours and lemon zest to the lovely tang of acidity on the finish. Serve well chilled to guests as a welcoming wine. When you're finished, the bottle will serve as a unique vase for the flowers they thoughtfully brought. (VH)

Canada: white wine

***** drink now
Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (592203)
This is everything a Niagara Sauvignon Blanc would hope to be. Gooseberry, grass and capsicum waft from the generous nose while the mouth feel is quite plush with lemon/lime and honeydew melon flavours. The finish is drawn-out and luxurious with enough fruit to balance off the zingy acidity on the clean finish. SB aficionados will savour this on its own or pour with grilled fish and freshly-squeezed lemon juice. (VH)

Canada: red wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs "Delaine Vineyard" Pinot Noir 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (922286)
An elegant, refined Pinot with tempting aromas of earth, sweet cherry and spice, flowing through to a finely-tuned palate of cherry and spice with supple tannins and perfectly poised acidity. The finish is long and complex. You can drink this now (with, say, grilled lamb) or hold it another five to eight years. (RP)

California: white wine

***** drink now
Conundrum 2003
California $33.95 (929992)
This scored high on my Wow! scale. The drop-dead gorgeous aromatics (rosewater, spice and floral notes) jump from the glass of this idiosyncratic, iconic and perennial favourite. The flavours and supple texture provide a gargantuan mouth full of spicy melons, stone fruit and citrus. The lengthy finish is perfectly balanced. This off-dry was sealed by screw cap to ensure it won't be corked when you taste it. It would work well with spicy Asian cuisine. (VH)

Washington: white wine

****1/2 drink now
Chateau Ste Michelle Chardonnay 2004
Columbia Valley $17.95 (232439)
A charming mélange of spicy tropical fruit and brioche aromatics provide an interesting segue to this light to medium-bodied beautifully made white. It provides a gorgeous texture, made rich and plush by the melon and ripe peach flavours, malolactic fermentation and deft handling of the oak ageing process. It finishes clean with a fruit forward attack balanced off with vanilla and citrus notes. This is from a marvelous winery at an equally marvelous price. (VH)

California: red wine

***** drink or cellar two glasses
Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot 2002
Napa Valley $79.95 (992529)
This is a stunning Merlot that bowled Vic and me over. Concentrated, saturated dark fruit (black plum, cherry, berry) with complex tarry and spicy notes, plush and silky texture, good structure, firm and pleasant tannins, great balance, a long finish.... This is simply a wonderful Merlot that you'll enjoy with spicy red meat dishes. (RP)

**** drink now
Ironstone Zinfandel 2003
California $18.95 (951889)
Simply a well-made Zin at a very good price. It has characteristic sweet dark tree and berry fruit and great concentration. It's getting there in alcohol (14.5%) but the heat and sweetness are well absorbed by the fruit. This is ready to drink now and over the next year or so, and will go well with richly-flavoured, somewhat spicy, red meat dishes. (RP)

***1/2 cellar
Rutherford Hill Merlot 2002
Napa Valley $28.95 (959338)
There are cherries, cranberries and plums on the inviting nose. The palate is treated to full -bore fruit (more cherry and plum) flavours and firm, grainy tannins that will need a bit of time in the bottle before melding in. The finish is fruity and rustic, in a positive way, and portends an excellent match with rare grilled pepper steak. Drink 2007 to 2010. (VH)

Oregon: red wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Iris Hill Pinot Noir 2001
Oregon $22.95 (661447)
This is very nicely constructed and makes an attractive Pinot that's drinking well now and can be cellared for another five years. The aromatics are fruity and perfumed, and the flavours of solid fruit (red and black cherry, pepper, spice) are focused and well pitched. With medium weight, it's a good match for grilled veal. (RP)

Chile: red wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Concha y Toro "Trio" Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Cabernet Franc 2003
Maipo Valley $14.95 (433912)
This is a crowd pleaser. Lifted aromatics of spiced raspberry compote hop from the glass of this medium-bodied red. It really struts its stuff on the palate with currant and cherry flavours, perceptible, but ripe and fine grained tannin and a finish that is made lip-smacking good by its fruit forward (spicy cassis) flavours and tangy notes. Very well priced. Drink now to 2009 with all manner of grilled red meat. (VH)


****1/2 drink now two glasses
Concha y Toro "Trio" Merlot/Carmenère/Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Rapel Valley $14.95 (433920)
Buy this wine by the armful or cart-load. It punches well above its price and delivers wonderful, complex fruit (dark plum, cherry) with a train of descriptors like pepper, spice, smoke, herbs, and tar. It's well balanced, has solid weight and is a joy to drink. You can pair it with gutsy pizza, rich pasta, or hearty vegetarian or meat dishes. (RP)

New Zealand: white wine

***1/2 drink now
Selaks "Premium Selection" Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough $16.95 (566935)
Another very good offering from the region that's become the New World's by-word for Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit here is deep and pungent. Look for gooseberry, lemon-lime and passion fruit, all well balanced with the crisp, clean texture you expect. Pair it with oysters on the shell or seared, lightly-smoked white fish. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Te Mania Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Nelson $17.95 (728048)
Do we need another SB from New Zealand? Not needed, but always room for a good one with verve. A pungent nose of gooseberry, thistle and herbal notes lead the way to a gorgeously textured, almost creamy, medium-bodied white of immense sweet tropical fruit flavours on the palate. Its finishes quite clean and zippy, but still retains some of those lovely melon notes to the end. Has been sealed under screwcap to ensure its flavour longevity and integrity. (VH)

South Africa: white wine

**** drink now
Graham Beck Sauvignon Blanc 2005
WO Coastal Region $13.95 (948620)
Excellent value when compared to other Sauvignon Blancs of this quality. The nicely- pitched acidity complements the fresh green fruit flavours (grass, gooseberry, lime) and it makes a great partner to a salad with grilled goat cheese. (RP)

France: red wine

**** drink now
Hugel Pinot Noir 2001
AOC Alsace $20.95 (971820)
A lighter style of Pinot Noir, as you'd expect from Alsace, but it has well focused fruit flavours (red cherry to the fore) with some earthy notes. The texture is quite astringent and the finish is good. This goes well with roast turkey or with chicken braised in tomatoes and red wine. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Château Caronne Ste-Gemme 1996
AOC Haut-Médoc $31.95 (659912)
1996 was a pretty good year on the Left Bank, so this is a good opportunity to pick up an aged example that's ready for drinking now and during the next year or so. It's a complex Cabernet-dominant blend with smooth tannins that grip gently and let the ripe fruit through. Drink it with a roast leg of lamb studded with garlic. (RP)

***** drink or cellar two glasses
Domaine de L'Ameillaud Cairanne 2003
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône Villages $14.95 (660605)
This is a 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Carignan, and 5% Mourvèdre blend. Crushed, dried cranberry, currant and leather aromas emanate from this gutsy red. It is decidedly full-bodied with full throttle black, ripe, delicious fruit flavours exploding on the palate along with perceptible, but acceptable tannin. The lengthy finish is simply more of the same. Rod and I loved this and find it stunningly under-priced. After checking that we have ours, you may purchase a case. Drink now to 2010. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
E. Guigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2001
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $55.95 (727503) $28.50 375ml (660563)
An excellent example of this Grenache-dominant blend. Look for a core of big, sweet fruit that's well-aligned with earthy, gamey, and herbal notes. It has tangy acidity but is balanced in favour of the fruit, and has long, sweet tannins. No doubt that this is the Old World at work in your glass. Whether you drink it now or in five years, pair it with grilled or roasted game. (RP)

****1/2 cellar
Château Haut-Monplaisir "Prestige" 2001
AOC Cahors $20.95 936534
I missed this producer on my last trip to Cahors, but I won't next time. This is big, bold, brutish and brooding, and I only wish Malbec started with a B. The concentrated dark, ripe fruit is accented with tarry, spicy and earthy notes, the structure is evident on the palate, and the finish is long. We see more Malbecs from Argentina than from its French origins, and if you've warmed to the South American styles, try this. It demands (it's bossy, too) grilled beef that's slightly charred outside, pink inside. (RP)

Germany: white wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Kabinett 2002
QmP Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $21.95 (989525)
This classy keeper starts off with a fairly muted citrus and mineral nose. However, the palate is a magnificent mélange of tangy lemon and tropical fruit (peaches and pears) flavours that provide an elegant and classy, full-bodied offering. You can serve this sweet (almost a light late harvest) and tangy (a great spine of lemon zing) as an aperitif or with curried chicken. You can drink it now, but best cellared 10+ years to allow it to develop those petrol and honeyed aromas and even more unctuous mouth feel and flavours. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Von Buhl Riesling Kabinett 2003
QmP Pfalz $18.95 (988527)
Rich, intense and elegant, this is an impressive Riesling at a very good price. Buy several bottles of this and enjoy tracking it as it ages and evolves. It has a core of ripe fruit and medium sweetness, but the acidity keeps everything poised and in harmony and balance. It makes an attractive aperitif or a partner to spicy Thai dishes. (RP)

Italy: white wine

***1/2 drink now
Empson "Bollini" Pinot Grigio 2004
DOC Trentino $15.95 (951319)
It begins with captivating floral (violets) and spicy nectarine aromas then transcends into a cornucopia of apple, pear and stone fruit flavours. These provide substantial texture and a well balanced and fruity finish. A welcomed cut above many of the Pinot Grigio's out there. Pour this at a party with light hors d'oeuvres. (VH)

Italy: red wine

****1/2 drink now
Terra d'Aligi Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2003
DOC Montepulciano d'Abruzzo $11.95 (981399)
All grapes (100% Montepulciano) were sourced from the Santa Margherita vineyard owned by the Spinelli brothers. There were less than 4000 cases of this wine produced. A lifted nose of sweet black plums with a touch of smoke is the segue to a silky smooth and powerful red that simply oozes layers of juicy, spiced black fruit flavours. Another wine with the price to quality scale tipped heavily in your favour. Buy in quantity, if you can lay your hands on it. Pour with a hearty ragout. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Andrea Oberto Barolo 2000
DOCG Barolo $49.95 (717264)
A lovely nose of floral and spicy plum waft from this medium-bodied red that will be at optimum 2008 to 2014. There are huge gobs of dried currant, black cherry and fig flavours while the finish displays some drying tannins, as well. This is well balanced and showcases one of the region's top producers. It's extremely well priced compared to other markets. Decant for 5 or 6 hours and enjoy with osso bucco or a hearty stew. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tenute Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2000
DOCG Chianti Classico Riserva $34.95 (512384)
Marvelous complexity here: each mouthful seems to bring to light a new dimension to the fruit and secondary flavours that emerge. Look for predominant fresh and dried fruit flavours with spice and pepper, a dry texture that verges on astringency, and tannins that really need a little time to integrate. I'd hold onto this for two or three years yet, then drink with osso bucco. (RP)

Portugal: red wine

****1/2 cellar
J.P. Vinhos 'SO' Touriga Nacional 2001
VR Terras do Sado $21.95 (662494)
A robust nose of cedar, violets and earthy nuances provide a segue to a blockbuster red that has it all. The palate is drenched with rich and concentrated black currant, raspberry and spiced black plum flavours that, along with ripe, firm tannins and judicious acidity, add up to a well balanced beauty. Luxuriate in the lengthy fruit-driven finish. Pour this from 2007 to 2011 with roast leg of lamb. (VH)

Spain: red wine

***** drink now two glasses
Finca Zubastia "Ada" Tinto 2003
DO Navarra $15.95 (657437)
Coffee, leather and earthy aromatics introduce this medium-bodied red from the Basque region of N. Spain. The overall effect on the palate is quite stunning with layers of warm, sweet (14% alc.), ripe, black fruit (currant, cherry and plum) washing endlessly around the mouth. The finish is similar with a hint of coconut (4 months in new American oak) and spice. Rod and I were both quite taken by this and recommend it highly. (VH)


New on the LCBO General List

These are recent additions to the General List or new vintages of current LCBO holdings.

Argentina

****1/2 drink or cellar
Masi Tupungato "Paso Doble Rosso" 2004
Mendoza, Argentina $16.95 (996439)
The blend (this is Merlot predominant with a small amount of Corvina) alters each year, but the result is always spectacular. This Amarone-like beauty (made 'appassimento' - grapes dried on mats before pressing) whooshes from the glass with black currant and raisin aromatics then goes off on a tear with monstrous amounts of sweet black cherry fruit and licorice solidly wrapped in ripe and perceptible tannins. Ends with that classic bite that one expects from an Amarone. Aerate/decant for 5 or 6 hours before serving from now until 2010. (VH)

Australia

***1/2 drink now
McWilliam's Cabernet Merlot 2003
South Eastern Australia $11.95 (621599)
This makes a quartet of good-value from McWilliam's-one of Australia's biggest and oldest family-owned wineries-on the General List. The Cab-Merlot is mouth-filling and fruity (plum, raspberries, cherry) with vanilla and spice notes. It's decidedly dry with light tannins. Made for fairly easily drinking, it's great for mid-week hamburgers and other red meat dishes. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Emu Springs Chardonnay 2002
South Eastern Australia $11.95 (296988)
A beguiling nose of pineapple and toasty notes form the perfect entrance to this medium-bodied, well-priced white. Generous fruit flavours of topical fruit (melon, pineapple and stone fruit) that appear on the palate carry through to the finish. It then layers on a zesty component with a generous squirt of lemon-lime zing. Pair with grilled, oily fish. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann Shiraz / Grenache 2003
Barossa Valley, Australia $14.95 (610725)
Black pepper, spice and ripe Bing cherries waft from the nose of this crowd-pleaser. The ripe black berry fruit on the palate fairly oozes around ripe tannins and the lovely zing of zestiness that forms the finish. This scores very highly on the Wow! meter. Drinking beautifully, now until 2009, with grilled medium rare steak. Superb value. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Wolf Blass "Grey Label" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Langhorne Creek $30.25 (470120)
An opaque monster that fires off lifted aromatics of toasty (18 months in oak) cassis and spice before engulfing the palate with a full-bodied nectar redolent of crushed black cherries and spicy dark plums with just a hint of mint. There are firm tannins on the finish wrapped around more sweet (14.5% alc.) fruit with good zing to keep it safe from jammy. Pricey, but worth a place at your table and your cellar; drinking now to 2014. (VH)

Canada: British Columbia

**** drink now
Mission Hill Vineyards Private Reserve Pinot Blanc 2004
VQA Okanagan Valley $12.95 (300301)
From one of B.C.'s best. An impressive nose of floral, mineral and honey notes are an intriguing segue to this light to medium-bodied white. The ample citrus and stone fruit flavours are complemented by tingling acidity on a very clean finish. For those who prefer their wine polite rather than powerful. Pair it with veal in a cream sauce. (VH)

Canada: Ontario

**** drink now
Colio Harrow Estates Cabernet / Merlot 2002
VQA Ontario $10.95 (432054)
The brilliant bright ruby colour is the sign of a clean fresh wine and this delivers, starting with a lifted nose of cedar and currants with a smidgeon of leather. Layers of sweet red berry fruit greet the palate along with a ripe tannin structure adding interest and complexity. The gorgeous dusty fruit finish suggests pairing with grilled red meats. Great value from an excellent producer. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc 2004/Gamay Noir 2004 Gift Pack
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.90 for the two bottles (661033)

Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Look for zesty acidity and attractive lemon-lime with hints of tropical fruit in the background. Niagara's Sauvignon Blanc vines have taken a beating in the last few winters, but it's clearly a variety the region should fight to keep. This one goes very well with grilled freshwater white fish. (RP)

Gamay Noir 2004
Light bodied but full flavoured, this is a fine partner for roast turkey or grilled salmon. Floral and fruity aromas lead to complex flavours of sweet cherry with earthy notes that ground it nicely. It's well balanced and food friendly, and makes the case for Gamay as a variety that Niagara should focus on. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Lakeview Cellars Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (518068)
Sweet red cherry and floral notes form the aromatic segue to this light-bodied sipper. The flavours include more cherries and spiced plums with a hint of strawberry. It cleans up nicely suggesting it would pair well with pizza and pasta in tomato-based sauces. (VH)

France

****1/2 drink now
Louis Latour "Ardèche" Chardonnay 2004
Vin de Pays des Côteaux de l'Ardèche $10.95 (132498)
This iconic Burgundy producer now utilizes Rhône terroir with spectacular results. Toast and green apple aromas waft from this seductive white. This medium textured gem offers a cornucopia of sweet tropical and stone fruit flavours. It also provides a generous finish of citrussy melon flavours. The price to quality ratio computes to a bargain for you. (VH)

**** drink now
Yvon Mau Shiraz 2004
Vin de Pays de l'Aude $8.95 (621979)
Great value in this rich, full-flavoured Shiraz from the south of France. Concentrated, tangy, spicy flavours of cherry and plum are to the fore, and it's well balanced with light tannins. Well made, well priced and, well, it's a natural for everything from pizza with Italian sausage to hamburgers to mid-week stews and hearty pasta. (RP)

Germany

***1/2 drink now
Franz Reh Gewürztraminer 2004
QbA Pfalz $11.45 (622027)
This doesn't have the pungent, spicy flavours you often get with fat, off-dry Gewürztraminers, but it does offer attractive peach and apricot flavours with notes of red grapefruit and there's no doubt that it's a Gewürztraminer. There's more acidity here than usual, too, making this more versatile for food, and I'd recommend pairing it with slightly spicy chicken or seafood dishes, or with smoked salmon. (RP)

Italy

**** drink now
Bolla Rosso 2003
IGT Sicily $10.95 (621128)
A blend of about 60% Syrah and 40% Nero d'Avola, this is terrific value. You get complex, concentrated dark fruit, a host of spicy, earthy notes, and surprising tannins for a General List wine. Dry and flavourful, this is priced for pizza, but goes well with grilled lamb and medium-rare steak. You might decant it an hour before drinking to get the best out of it. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Fuedo Arancio Syrah 2002
IGT Sicily $11.95 (621730)
A well-made red with rich dark berry aromas and flavours with complex notes of spice, pepper, and coffee beans. With a tangy, attractive texture, it's nicely balanced with light tannins. Pair it with rich red meat dishes with wild mushrooms. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mezzo Mondo Negroamaro 2003
IGT Salento $7.95 (588962)
A unique and generous nose of candied cherries, spice and black plums greet the taster. This medium to full-bodied gem is rich with cassis and concentrated raspberry flavours and enough drying tannins to make it a keeper. There is a solid core of ripe, black fruit throughout. By any measure, this is ridiculously under-priced and worthy of a place at your table alongside almost any manner of red meat dishes, now to 2009. (VH)

Spain

***** drink or cellar
Osborne "Solaz" Shiraz/Tempranillo 2004
Viños de la Tierra de Castilla $9.65 (610188)
Think of this burgeoning Spanish region as analogous to a new hot Vin de Pays region in France. This region is hot in terms of temperature, as well, and is where Cervantes' Don Quixote clopped about. Look for a robust nose of dried currants and tobacco providing the segue to a rich, dark brooding pool of concentrated flavours (chocolate, cherries, tar) and grippy tannins. They all coalesce to make this full-bodied red tilted very heavily in your favour on the quality to price balance. (VH)


New in restaurants

These wines, not on sale in the LCBO or Vintages, are available directly from the agents by the case (usually 12, but sometimes 6 bottles). Contact the agent for more information.

***1/2 drink now
Cellier des Chartreux "Iles Blanches" Viognier 2004
Vin de Pays d'Oc $16.27
A quite luscious, mouth-filling Viognier, with honeyed notes on apricot and peach fruit and crisp citrus acidity. The texture is smooth, verging on creamy, and it pairs well with a grilled chicken salad with an orange-based dressing. The Ontario agent is Small Winemakers Collection at www.smallwinemakers.ca. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Katnook "Founder's Block" Shiraz 2002
Coonawarra $18.30
A lovely, rich, fruity Shiraz with attractive herbal notes. Flavours of dark plum, raspberry, coffee, mint and pepper predominate, and they're in very good proportion with the acidity. Well made, well priced, and a great partner for grilled rack of lamb. The Ontario agent is Charton-Hobbs at www.chartonhobbs.com (RP)

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3
stars Wines well worth trying
2

stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1
star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half
star Represents a half star
2
glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or
cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar


Cheers!

Rod and Vic