Winecurrent

October 24, 2013 Newsletter

Highlights include:

  • Exceptional value wines Exceptional Value! – only 7 of the 65 wines reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines; four in the Main Release; three in New in LCBO Portfolio; one in New in Ontario Wineries– all in a price range $13.90 to $17.95.
  • Vic’s Premium Picks – Emilio Lustau ‘East India Solera’ Sherry @ $22.95 under Fortified Wine; Joseph Cattin Hatschbourg Gewürztraminer 2010 @ $19.95 under France White Wine; Columbia Crest ‘H3 Horse Heaven Hills’ Merlot 2010 @ $21.95 under Mini-feature Oregon/Washington State; Coto de Imaz Reserva 2005 @ $20.95 under Spain: Red Wine
  • 5-star wines – two rang the 5-star bell. Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée’ Brut Champagne found under Champagne; Reif Estate Winery ‘Reserve’ Gewürztraminer 2012 under New in Ontario Wineries.

There were 65 wines tasted, spat and reviewed in this newsletter 


Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

Vintages Release: October 26, 2013

Feature: Bordeaux 2010

(very few of the Bordeaux 2010 wines were made available for tasting)

**** drink or cellar
Château Castaing 2010
AOC Côtes de Bourg $17.95 (206631) 14.5% alcohol
Smoke, oak and dark berry fruit aromas herald a complex, structured wash of ripe dark cherry and black currant complemented with savory herbs and baking spice. Medium bodied, rich and dense, the lengthy finish and aftertaste layer on moderating acidity and oodles of dark, rich berry fruit. You won’t go wrong serving this with roast tenderloin of beef. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château Brandeau 2010
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux-Castillon $16.95 (351973) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of sandalwood, smoky notes and roasted red peppers interlace with mixed field berry fruit on the nose. It’s medium bodied with smooth texture bursting with red and black berry fruit, cassis and mocha on the palate replaying on the mid-length aftertaste. This pairs well with grilled lamb chops and offers good value. (Vic Harradine)

Mini-feature: Oregon/Washington State

****1/2 drink or cellar
Columbia Crest ‘H3 Horse Heaven Hills’ Merlot 2010
Horse Heaven Hills $21.95 (209874) 14.5% alcohol
Bold, brilliant, balanced and beautiful, this showcases flavour, structure, depth and complexity. Aromas of dark berry fruit—currant, raspberry, mulberry—meld with spice-infused vanilla and anise on the complex nose. Dense, rich flavours of black plum, ripe mulberry and juicy Bing cherry play off moderating acidity and wisps of fine-grained tannin. The finish lingers, you shouldn’t; it won’t be on shelves long. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Sherry

****1/2 drink now
Emilio Lustau ‘East India Solera’ Sherry

DO Jerez, Spain $22.95 (342931) 500 mL 20.0% alcohol

When you spot ‘Lustau’ on a wine label, it’s akin to a gold seal of approval. This perennial favourite is showing toffee, raisin and caramel on the nose coupled with a most scrumptious mélange of sweet fig, raisin and nutty flavours. Dense and intense, deftly balanced, the effect is amazing. Serve this dessert wine chilled; either on its own or matched to crème caramel, crème brûlée or any manner of dark spiced fruit cake. It’s been some time since last spotted, then in a 375 mL size. Stock up and drink over the next two years. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

***** drink or cellar
Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée’ Brut Champagne

AOC Champagne $74.95 (384529) 12.0% alcohol

Bollinger is often ranked as one of the best Champagnes in the world. Purchase this to discover why. It has 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, and 15% Pinot Meunier. This accounts for the full-bodied and beautifully-textured house style. Expect a vigorous mousse attack—the tingly effect when the bubbles hit your palate—a harbinger of a creamy smooth wash of baking brioche, citrus and green apple flavours. Sporting a gorgeous, mouth-watering, lengthy finish with enough oomph for white meat dishes—veal or chicken—it’s one of the wine world’s most affordable luxuries. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Featherstone ‘Joy – Premium Cuvée’ Sparkling Wine 2009

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 (310334) 12.5% alcohol 

You’ll love the bottle and closure and it only gets better when you taste it. Toasty notes, sweet, ripe pit fruit and citrus aromas presage frothy bubbles and a robust wash of key lime pie, minerality and ripe Meyer lemon. It’s racy, clean and crisp on entry then mingles with riper notes of sweet, grilled pineapple and white peach. This pleasurable transition leads to a balanced and beautiful, refreshing finish. There’s excellent value in this traditional-method, vintage-dated, delectable, sparkling wine. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Tenua S. Anna Prosecco Superiore Di Valdobbiadene
DOCG Veneto $19.95 (281386) 11.5% alcohol
This has very appealing aromas with orchard fruit, floral notes and citrus to the fore. It has a beautifully textured mouth feel and decent weight with plenty of bubbles on the palate. Flavours of green apple, pear and peach interlace with crisp refreshing acidity and notions of minerality persisting through the moth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fielding Estate ‘Estate Bottled’ Riesling 2012 

VQA Beamsville Bench $18.95 (251439) 10.0% alcohol 

One of my favourite Riesling styles from a top-notch producer—what’s not to like? The lifted, lively nose—mineral/slate, key lime and pit fruit—heralds a glorious gusher of lip-smacking flavour with tangy grapefruit, orange peel and lemon curd to the fore. Showcasing lovely sweet and tang on the aftertaste, it’s lively, crisp and refreshing throughout. Pour alongside a spicy Asian dish or pan-seared scallops. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink now
Featherstone ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (131540) 12.5% alcohol
Savory herbs, berry fruit, vanilla and mixed spice on the nose, this is mid weight and nicely textured with a dry mid-length finish. Red and black currant mingle with bright red cherry, spice and wisps of cracked black pepper on the palate. The aftertaste replays fruit flavours layering on excellent moderating acidity and wisps of soft, fine-grained tannin. Pour with spice-rubbed, grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Artesa Chardonnay 2011
Carneros $24.95 (657585) 13.8% alcohol
Toasty oak and sweet vanilla aromas precede a tangy, juicy streak of lemon zest, ripe apple and slate/mineral notes. It’s mid weight with decent texture and wisps of oak appearing on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with rotisserie chicken and garlic mashed. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Edna Valley Vineyard ‘Paragon’ Chardonnay 2011
Central Coast $19.95 (984153) 13.9% alcohol
Apple, pear, baking spice and vanilla aromas roll easily from this brilliant, medium-full bodied, satin-smooth Chardonnay. Flavourful, balanced and charming, ripe, juicy apple and white nectarine come to the fore supported by complexity, notions of tropical fruit and good lemon acidity. It finishes lengthy, luscious and lip-smacking good. Pour with roast fowl and root veggies, pork or veal. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay 2011
Sonoma County $28.95 (295055) 14.1% alcohol
Honeyed nectarine and yellow plum aromas mingle with lemon-lime on the nose. It bathes the palate with medium-full-weight, creamy smooth flavours—white nectarine, ripe pear and racy blood orange. The finish is balanced between ripe fruit and moderating acidity, but still showing a fair amount of oak. Good now, better 2015 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
La Crema Chardonnay 2011
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $37.95 (067231) 14.5% alcohol
This brims with structure, complexity and Russian River Valley fruit. The nose is predominantly ripe pear and green apple with notions of dill weed. It’s very clean and crisp on the palate with a spirited river of lemony acidity wreathed with yellow peach, apple and pear. It’s full bodied, full flavoured and full of intensity. The finish and aftertaste show good length and refreshing citrus acidity. Pour with pan-seared freshwater fish showered with freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Ivory Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 

California $24.95 (521021) 13.5% alcohol 

Movie mogul Francis Ford Coppola takes the winery and its wine very seriously; this is no vanity-license-plate adventure. The alluring, lifted nose delivers an exotic array of aromas—roasted herbs, Asian spice, sweet vanilla and fennel. Silky smooth with mid weight and great balance, it slides over the palate with minty, dark cherry and black currant interwoven with warm, peppery spice notes. The finish lingers, underpinned by fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar

Gallo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Northern Sonoma $39.95 (343996) 15.0% alcohol
This struts its stuff with rich flavour, good acidity, structure and no shortage of charm. Black currant, sweet vanilla and sandalwood interlace with mixed spice and mocha on the nose. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and chockfull of flavour and pizzazz—tangy, sour cherry and sweet, ripe, bramble berry mingle with herbs, spice and black licorice coating the palate with gusto, infusing the structured, balanced finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Hartley-Ostini ‘Hitching Post Hometown’ Pinot Noir 2010
Santa Barbara County $26.95 (256644) 14.2% alcohol
Aromas of freshly sliced strawberry, beetroot and spice presage a richly flavoured, mid-weight, nicely textured stream of roasted herbs, racy, red cherry/berry fruit garnished with riper black cherry and mulberry. It finishes with a flourish layering on riper mulberry and briary berry wreathed in herbs and spice. Good to go now poured with grilled, smoked duck breasts or roast fowl. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
McManis Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
California $19.95 (212126) 13.5% alcohol
Dense, rich and stylish, it sports a complex nose of dark cherry, pipe tobacco, leather and fennel. Gobs of cassis, juicy, black, Bing cherry and briary berry interweave with mocha on the palate. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a rip-roaring finish—this is a hedonistic, crowd pleaser. Pour alongside smoked and grilled ribs mopped with spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Redemption ‘Zin’ Zinfandel 2009
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $26.95 (224147) 14.9% alcohol
Gorgeous, voluptuous, balanced and charming, it’s zinfully delicious. Savory herbs, piquant spice and red cherry/berry aromas captivate. It’s medium-full bodied with a plush, creamy mouth feel and oodles of palate-bathing flavour—ripe, juicy red and black fruit, charred toast and good moderating acidity. There’s a supple tannin structure and a long aftertaste where every sip’s as good or better than the previous. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tangley Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $25.95 (104208) 14.2% alcohol
Lifted, lively aromas jump from the glass of this fruit-forward gem—piquant spice and dark berry fruit aromas interlace with notions of herbs and minerality on the nose. A dark, juicy river of red and black cherry, ripe, black currant and black plum compote bathe the palate nicely moderated with red cherry acidity. Good balance, good structure and frightfully good tasting. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
d’Arenberg ‘The Money Spider’ Roussanne 2011
McLaren Vale, South Australia $21.95 (656710) 13.3% alcohol
Rich and robust, balanced and textured, it opens with lifted aromas of floral notes, mixed spice and notions of tea leaves. Beautifully textured, medium-bodied waves of tropical fruit, nectarine and sweet, ripe, apple and pear coat the palate. It finishes in a blaze of grilled pineapple and mouth-watering, racy lemon. Pour with breaded and grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
d’Arenberg ‘The Laughing Magpie’ Shiraz/Viognier 2009
McLaren Vale, South Australia $29.95 (936971) 14.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of spice box, espresso roast and black berry introduce powerful and concentrated flavours of cassis, bramble berry and dark cherry interweaving with figs and black plum compote. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a long, fruit-laden aftertaste that’s laced with excellent moderating acidity and a lick of tannin. Aerate/decant three hours before serving with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Small Gully ‘Mr. Black’s Little Book’ Shiraz 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (287979) 15.2% alcohol
Rich, dense and concentrated, there’s no doubt about it being Barossa Shiraz. Aromas of cracked black pepper, sweet, ripe mulberry and black licorice mingling with roasted herbs and gamy notes abound. It’s full bodied, fully textured and fully flavoured with black fruit—cherry, currant and plum—wreathed in spice persisting through the luscious finish and aftertaste. A Wow! wine for certain, not for the faint of heart. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
St. Hallett ‘Gamekeeper’s’ Shiraz Grenache 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (024117) 13.5% alcohol
More elegant than most, it still brims with flavour and charm. Hi-toned aromas of wood smoke, espresso roast and sweet, ripe fruit flirt with mint and mocha. Waves of cassis, bittersweet chocolate and wisps of dark toast wash over the palate infused with good moderating acidity and notions of blueberry. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel, structure and a long finish sporting black cherry and black licorice on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Turkey Flat ‘Butchers Block’ Shiraz-Grenache-Mourvèdre 2011
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (090241) 14.0% alcohol
From a trusted producer, this doesn’t disappoint; it barrels from the glass with aromas of black olive, roasted herbs and dark berry fruit galore. Full bodied and plush on the palate, it’s tangy and juicy with boysenberry, black currant and ripe mulberry to the fore. There’s good structure, depth and complexity throughout finishing balanced and brimming with cassis and kirsch liqueur garnished with fennel and wisps of gamy, smoky notes. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (009167) 13.5% alcohol
This opens with a sharp nose of piquant spice and racy lemon-lime aromas. There’s lively nerve and verve throughout with good tension from flavours of Key lime pie, lemon drop and sweeter, mellow, grilled pineapple. Crisp, fresh and mouth-watering on the aftertaste, it pours well with spicy Asian cuisine or Cape Malay bobotie. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Wither Hills ‘Rarangi Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (288134) 13.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of herbaceous notes, lime and sharp green nettles provide entrée for a juicy, tangy stream of lime yoghurt, lemon curd and wisps of ruby red grapefruit. It’s mid weight with decent mouth feel and a lingering, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Good to go now poured alongside pan-seared freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink now
Villa Maria ‘Cellar Selection’ Pinot Noir 2009
Marlborough, South Island $32.95 (285361) 14.0% alcohol
Oodles of herbs, piquant spice and dark berry fruit on the nose, this dishes up a solid line of fruit flavours—dried currant and riper mulberry—cloaked in excellent moderating acidity and earthy notes. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a mid-length finish and aftertaste showcasing deft balance, wisps of toast and black plum compote. Pour with slow-roasted pork and braised rapini greens. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2011 

WO Stellenbosch $15.95 (739995) 13.5% alcohol 

Tangerine and honeysuckle mingle with citrus and mineral notes on the nose of this medium-full bodied, nicely textured tangy white. It washes over the palate with a solid core of tropical fruit and lemony citrus garnished with kitchen spice and apple crisp. There’s good balance and a pleasing mid-length finish. (Vic Harradine)

Austria: White Wine

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Domaine Wachau ‘Terraces’ Grüner Veltliner 2012
Wachau $17.95 (155812) 13.0% alcohol
We see far too few Grüners, especially of this calibre—great flavour, exceptional value. It sports a lifted nose of spice and floral aromas, but it’s all about the taste, balance and structure. Clean and crisp throughout, racy citrus interweaves with crisp green apple and notions of lemongrass and fennel. There’s very good mouth feel and a lengthy finish chockfull of nerve and verve. This pairs with all manner of seafood. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Joseph Cattin Hatschbourg Gewürztraminer 2010
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $19.95 (259770) 13.0% alcohol
This is charming and stylish showcasing balance, fruit-forward flavour and a delightful, mouth-watering finish. Aromas of exotic spice, red licorice and floral notes abound. It bathes the palate with a gusher of creamy smooth lychee, tropical fruit, apricot and citrus. It finishes in a blaze of tangy acidity wreathed in rosewater. It’s a complete package with good mouth feel, decent weight and a price-quality balance that tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
William Fèvre Chablis 2011
AOC Chablis $24.95 (124578) 12.5% alcohol
This is Chablis in a traditional style with a lot to offer, including value. It’s lively and fresh throughout including aromas of savory herbs, minerality and sharp, spice-laden citrus. Crisp Granny Smith apple, ripe pear and intense acidity streak across the palate with mid weight and surprisingly good texture. The über-lengthy finish and aftertaste is racy, lemony and lip-smacking good. Freshly shucked oysters pair well. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2007 

DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $59.95 (378257) 14.5% alcohol 

Mellow and fully flavoured, this offers a lovely bouquet of exotic spice, pipe tobacco and dark berry fruit. Complex, layered and brushing with elegance, it spreads over the palate in plush, textured waves with spice-laden black currant and dark plum mingling with black licorice, mocha and wisps of sweet vanilla. It’s smooth as silk, mid-full weight with a lingering, luxuriant aftertaste underpinned by supple tannin. It has balance, structure and oodles of charm. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and, with careful cellaring, on to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Luce Della Vite ‘Luce’ 2010
IGT Toscana $99.95 (685263) 14.5% alcohol
Lively aromas of red cherry, cedar, spice and a truckload of dark juicy fruit waft from this Tuscan beauty. A huge mouthful of tangy, juicy red fruit—plum, currant and cherry—spray over the palate bolstered by cassis and black berry. It’s mid-full weight with plush texture and a luscious, lengthy aftertaste that’s loaded with dark berry fruit, black licorice and bittersweet chocolate. The tannin’s perceptible; it’s softened with a three-hour aeration/decant or handled by popping corks 2015-2022. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Rocca Della Macìe Chianti Riserva 2009
DOCG Chianti $15.95 (111641) 13.5% alcohol
This is quite a brand, wine after wine demands attention. Soft aromas of cedar and baking spice provide segue for a spirited, complex wash of rich, ripe fruit—briary berry, black cherry and blueberry adorned with mocha, fennel and peppery spice. It’s mid weight with excellent mouth feel and luscious, lingering, balanced aftertaste dominated by red and black berry fruit with lip-smacking acidity. Rare to find wine of this calibre from Chianti Classico in this price range—don’t be shy when you buy. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Toscolo Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
DOCG Chianti $24.95 (069369) 13.0% alcohol
Lovely aromas of dark berry fruit, savory spice and sweet vanilla presage a light-on-its-feet, fruit-laden stream bathing the palate with sour cherry and red currant nicely balanced with riper, darker berry fruit especially on the back palate and aftertaste. The mid-length finish showcases good balance and mouth-watering fruit. Pour with lasagna, meat-laden pizza or pasta Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Monte Zovo ‘Sa’ Solin’ Ripasso Valpolicella 2011
DOC Valpolicella $17.95 (650713) 14.5% alcohol
This crowd-pleasing gem opens with aromas of pipe tobacco, mixed spice and gamy notes preceding a nicely balanced wave of über rich, dark, berry fruit interweaving with dried currant and spice-laden black plum. It’s mid weight with creamy smooth mouth feel and a tangy, fruit-forward, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pick up a few; pour with lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Tedeschi ‘Capitel Nicalò’ Appassimento Valpolicella Superiore 2009
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $15.95 (984997) 14.0% alcohol
Rich and robust, this dishes up a huge mouthful for a pittance. Earthy, charred toast and spice-infused, dried currant aromas on the nose provide segue to a creamy smooth, mid-weight river of sweet and tang—racy red currant and tangy sour cherry marrying up with sweet kirsch liqueur—providing a delightful tasting experience. It finishes fruit forward garnished with dark coffee and bittersweet dark chocolate. Dare I say, yummy? (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Coto de Imaz Reserva 2005
DOCa Rioja $20.95 (023762) 13.5% alcohol
This 2005 Tempranillo is more elegant than powerful showcasing structure, balance and complexity. It opens with a bouquet of dark toast, leather, spice box and black currant. The palate’s bathed with a mid-weight, satin-smooth wash of juicy red currant and tangy red cherry balanced with ripe, dark berry fruit. The aftertaste layers on truffles, savory herbs and wisps of fine-grained tannin. It’s very good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Lan Crianza 2009
DOCa Rioja $15.95 (166538) 13.5% alcohol
Baking spice, flinty/mineral notes and red berry fruit on the nose, this streaks across the palate with rich flavours of red and black cherry underpinned by a solid lick of tannin and toasty oak. It’s medium weight with decent texture and a luscious finish and aftertaste replaying the fruit garnished with bittersweet chocolate and wisps of truffle. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Vinos Sin Ley ‘M Old Vine’ Monastrell 2011
DO Yecla $18.95 (344226) 14.5% alcohol
Alluring and lively aromas abound—red cherry/berry, exotic incense and piquant spice. There’s good purity of fruit in this Mourvèdre with racy red currant and tangy sour cherry streaking across the palate bolstered by ripe bramble berry and notions of forest floor. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely textured with a mid-length finish of red cherry/berry fruit and a supple tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant for three hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: February 15, 2013

****1/2 drink now
Viña Perez Cruz ‘Limited Edition’ Carmenère 2011
DO Valle de Maipo, Chile $19.95 13.5% alcohol
This showcases ripe fruit, deft balance, structure and a savory component. From Chile’s signature grape, this was hand harvested and spent 12 months in oak—60% American, the balance French. Roasted herbs and tobacco interweave with mixed spice and minerality on the nose. Ripe mulberry and juicy, black, Bing cherry bathe the palate garnished with savory herbs and a wisp of tannin adding structure and interest. It finishes lengthy and luscious with good moderating acidity for balance. Aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: TBA

***** drink or cellar
Viña Perez Cruz ‘Liquai’ 2009
DO Valle de Maipo, Chile $39.95 14.5% alcohol
This stunning, flagship red blend of low-yielding fruit—44% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Carmenère—spent 16 months in French oak. Alluring aromas of cracked black pepper, dried currant and charred toast provide segue for a mid-full bodied, creamy smooth mouthful of cassis, cherry clafoutie and bittersweet chocolate wreathed in supple tannin and a boatload of elegance and charm. The lengthy aftertaste is balanced and beautiful, lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages Essentials

**** drink now
Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Paso Robles, California $19.95 (738823) 13.5% alcohol
Black plum, lilac and Asian spice aromas set the stage for a grand entrance of flavours—luscious ripe mulberry and juicy Bing cherry interlaced with roasted herbs, dark coffee and excellent, mouth-watering acidity. This showcases deft balance and judicious use of well-integrated oak from a cooler vintage that was handled with care with great results - Kudos. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Viña Perez Cruz ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
DO Maipo Alto, Chile $15.95 (694208) 13.5% alcohol
The cool, elevated Maipo Alto region is the sweet spot for premiere Chilean Cab. There’s a 3% splash of Syrah and 1% ripple of Carmenère in this mid-weight, beautifully textured, crowd-pleasing gem. Aromas of rich black fruit, sweet vanilla and toasty notes herald a river of black cherry, juicy and ripe mulberry on the palate infusing the long finish. It sports good depth, complexity, oodles of charm and great value. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cattail Creek ‘Small Lot Series- Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Four Mile Creek $24.95 (348987) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of baking spice, toasty oak and orchard fruit precede a medium-bodied, gorgeous wash of crisp Granny Smith apple and ripe pear interwoven with tropical fruit and mineral notes. Everything’s in delicate balance on the creamily textured palate and lingering, mouth-watering aftertaste. Pours well on its own, has the balance and structure to also pair well with roast fowl, grilled sea food, pork or veal—excellent value. Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hidden Bench ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Beamsville Bench $28.95 (068817) 13.5% alcohol
Balanced and beautiful, this wild-yeast-fermented, lo-yield—barely one ton/acre—gem is best described as stylish, robust and absolutely delicious. It jumps from the glass with baking spice, mineral and toasty oak aromas as harbingers of a fully flavoured, fully textured river of ripe orchard fruit—apple peach, pear—and crisp, refreshing, lemon acidity unfurling on the palate, dominating the lengthy, refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse Vineyard ‘Quarry Road’ Riesling 2012
VQA Vinemount Ridge $23.95 (198853) 10.0% alcohol
Certified organic and biodynamic, it’s balanced, and chockfull of elegant flavour and racy tang. The nose is full of promise with piquant spice and lemon-lime wreathed in minerality and notions of ginger and nectarine. It bathes the palate with creamy texture and delicate, elegant flavours of ripe, yellow apple, Meyer lemon and tangy lime laced with mineral notes. The finish and aftertaste linger in perfect harmony right to the last, lip-smacking drop. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Brickyard Riesling 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (346866) 10.0% alcohol
This delivers a lively nose of lime cordial, lemongrass and slate/mineral notes. It bathes the plate with a balanced and beautiful wash of lime yoghurt, lemon pie filling and lip-smacking tang. Mid weight and nicely textured, it replays flavours on the crisp refreshing finish and aftertaste. This is served well as an aperitif, though versatile at the table pairing with spicy Asian cuisine, all manner of seafood or mesclun/arugula salad with chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

• Limited Time Offer for Luis Felipe Edwards with $1.50 discount = $12.40 now to Nov. 10, 2013

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Luis Felipe Edwards ‘Reserva’ Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
DO Colchagua, Chile $13.90 (308189) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a crowd-pleasing red blend with lovely aromas, flavours and lots of charm. What’s not to like? Opaque purple in the glass, aromas of rich cherry cordial, aromatic bitters and red plum herald a rich and juicy wash of ripe black plum, sweet mulberry and a dollop of briary berry on the palate infusing the long, delicious finish and aftertaste. Comfortable at the table; it pours well with burgers, gourmet sausage, pizza or wings. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Quinta do Encontro ‘Qdo E’ 2010
DOC Bairrada, Portugal $13.75 (320085) 13.5% alcohol
Rich dark fruit mingles with spice and tobacco aromas on the nose. There’s a nicely textured, rich and rustic river of dark berry fruit, excellent tang and acidity interwoven with kirsch liqueur and wisps of supple tannin. Pour with smoked, grilled ribs or red-wine-marinated, grilled chouriço. (Vic Harradine)

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Henry of Pelham Pinot Grigio 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (250217) 12.5% alcohol
Honeysuckle, orchard fruit and lemon citrus on the nose, it bathes the palate with a creamy smooth wash of crisp, green apple and juicy, ripe pear interweaving with excellent lemon and pineapple acidity. It’s balanced, with good weight and a lingering aftertaste of ripe peach and pear garnished with excellent moderating acidity. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

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Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine’ Rosé Brut Non Vintage 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (217505) 12.0% alcohol 

Lively aromas of strawberry, spice and floral notes provide segue for a delectable mouthful of pin-point bubbles and mouth-watering blood orange, red currant and ruby grapefruit adorned with brioche and juicy, ripe, dark cherry. This has lovely mouth feel and replays flavours on the lingering, crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Pours well as a welcoming wine and has the oomph for roast turkey dinner. (Vic Harradine)

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Casa Planeta Syrah 2010
IGT Sicilia, Italy $11.95 (219857) 13.0% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, exotic incense and roasted herb aromas presage a delightful super-smooth river of sweet, ripe mulberry, cassis and tangy red cherry interweaving with mixed spice and espresso roast. It’s medium bodied and sports a balanced, fruit-forward finish and aftertaste. Pour with pizza, burgers, gourmet sausage, wings or tacos. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

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Casa Dea Estates Pinot Gris 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $18.95 12.5% alcohol
All County fruit from 2 separate vineyards, this jumps from the glass with alluring aromas of melon, pear and floral notes. It’s balanced and beautiful, medium weight and generously textured. Ripe, yellow peach, juicy, Bosc pear and lemon curd coat the palate in waves. The finish is crisp and mouth-watering. Lovely on its own, it marries well with not-too-spicy Asian dishes. Order by the case for home or office delivery direct from Casa Dea. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cave Spring Cellars ‘CSV’ Riesling 2010
VQA Beamsville Bench $29.95 (566026) 11.5% alcohol
Highly respected as one of Canada’s premium Riesling producers, their wine does the talking and it’s highly persuasive. The lifted nose of slate/mineral, nectarine and floral notes interweave with lemon citrus. It bathes the palate with concentrated flavour delivered with medium body and generous mouth feel—ripe peach, blood orange, lemon curd and a replay of those slate/minerally bits, particularly on the off-dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Wine lovers and Riesling aficionados will scoop this up by the case for home or office delivery direct from Cave Spring Cellars. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fielding Estate Winery ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Beamsville Bench $22.15 12.5% alcohol
It’d be difficult to top this producer in consistently delivering balanced, flavourful, good-value wine. Pear, apple and baking spice aromas precede a medium bodied, generously textured wash of ripe orchard fruit—nectarine, apple and pear—mingling with racy lemon acidity. There’s good purity of fruit throughout with wisps of well-integrated oak and a lingering, refreshing finish. What’s not to like? Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Foreign Affair Sauvignon Blanc 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 13.4% alcohol
Showy, robust and chockfull of flavour and charm, spirited aromas of lemon-lime, herbaceous notes and gooseberry abound. A balanced and structured tsunami wave of creamy smooth texture and flavour—white peach, ripe apple and pear garnished with tangy lemon curd—coat the palate dominating a lively, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. This definitely delivers a ‘Wow’ factor; it was tough to spit. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Foreign Affair Winery. (Vic Harradine)

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Peninsula Ridge ‘Beal Vineyard –Inox Reserve’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 13.4% alcohol
Smooth, mellow and stylish, aromas of tropical fruit and pit fruit presage a nicely textured, medium-bodied wash of ripe nectarine, yellow apple and lemon chiffon pie bathing the palate and lengthy finish and aftertaste. Always good value and fully flavoured, this won’t disappoint. The price-quality ratio’s skewed well in your favour. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Peninsula Ridge. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now Exceptional Value!
Reif Estate Winery ‘Reserve’ Gewürztraminer 2012
VQA Niagara River $19.95 13.0% alcohol
This barrels from the glass with aromas of exotic spice, rosewater and pineapple. It spills over the palate with plush texture and myriad flavours—lychee, rosewater, spiced white peach and nectarine balanced by racy lemon acidity. This beats the pants off most Grand Cru Alsatian Gewürzt. Pick up a case for home or office delivery direct from Reif Estate before word spreads and it’s gobbled up. (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following wines for daily home or office delivery direct from Tawse Winery.

**** drink or cellar
Tawse Vineyard ‘Quarry Road Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.95 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a sleek offering with tightly wound aromas of slate/mineral, sharp citrus and notions of apple and pear. It streaks across the palate mid weight and racy, full of nerve and verve with lemon tang, lime cordial and grapefruit zest to the fore. It’s crisp, clean and refreshing with a clean, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. It pours well with pan-seared calamari rings showered with freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Tawse Vineyard Chardonnay 2011
VQA Beamsville Bench $44.95 13.0% alcohol
This is structured with good depth and complexity. Sourced from 52-year-old Chardonnay vines, touted the oldest in Canada, this ‘Lenko Vineyard’ was barrel fermented and barrel aged twelve months in French oak. Baking spice, apple crumble and tropical fruit aromas provide segue for an elegant, medium-full bodied, creamy smooth river of palate-bathing lemon drop, chalky minerality and Granny Smith apple. It finishes with a flourish of toasty oak and white grapefruit pith. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

• Order the following by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery (in Ontario) from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.
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Tenuta Fernando Capello Cabernet Franc 2011
DOC Friuli Grave, Italy $19.95 12.0% alcohol
Lively aromas of spice-laden red cherry, espresso roast and pipe tobacco roll from this tangy gem. Medium bodied and well textured, it streaks across the palate with sour cherry, roasted herbs and ripe, red raspberry. The finish replays flavours, crisp refreshing and tangy. Pour with lasagna or pasta in Bolognese sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Franco e Franca Gatteschi ‘Montegrossoli’ 2010
IGT Toscana, Italy $18.85 13.0% alcohol
Roasted herbs, exotic spice an mixed field berry fruit aromas presage a rich, complex wave of red cherry, plum and cranberry interweaving with piquant spice and notions of prune and dried currant. It’s predominantly Sangiovese, mid weight with good texture and a mouth-watering finish. Pour alongside pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

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Franco e Franca Gatteschi ‘Le Diacci’ 2007
IGT Toscana, Italy $32.85 13.0% alcohol
There’s good weight and texture throughout this lovely red blend—90% Merlot, 10% Alicante. An alluring bouquet of rose petals, sandalwood, mocha and black plum compote abounds. A complex and luscious wave of maraschino cherries dipped in chocolate, ripe mulberry and cassis washes over the palate infusing the lengthy, delectable aftertaste. Pour with osso bucco or lamb tagine with root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

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Franco e Franca Gatteschi ‘Semifonte’ 2010
IGT Toscana, Italy $18.85 13.0% alcohol
This Merlot-based blend sports charred toast, truffles and dark berry fruit aromas that intro a creamy-smooth, balanced wash of red berry fruit, currant and cranberry, interlaced with sour cherry and mixed spice and herbs. It finishes in a blaze of refreshing tang adorned with bittersweet chocolate and savory herbs. A great match with beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic