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October 15, 2005 Release

Fortified Wine: Sherry

***** drink now
Emilio Lustau Solera Reserva 'Rare' Amontillado 'Escuadrilla'
DO Jerez $15.95 (660324) 375 ml
This is a racy offering in the classic bone-dry style that will appeal equally to aficionados and tentative 'first-timers'. Wine-lovers will happily stretch their horizons here. Almond and toffee notes waft from the amber brown liquid. Made from 100% Palomino white grapes that have been exposed to air, this oxidization causes the colour and the beguiling aromatics. The flavour profile is tangy and nutty. A versatile medium-bodied gem that would be well matched (serve chilled, not cold) with blue cheese or veal and chicken dishes with a piquant mayonnaise. (VH)

Fortified Wine: Port

**** drink now
Dow's Colheita Port 1992
DOC Douro, Portugal, Btld. 2005, Symington Family Estates $31.95 (604751)
A very good price for this Port, a very good Port for this price. It has an appealing salmon-bronze colour and rich, complex aromas and flavours. Look for a couple of flavour zones-dried fruit/prune/fig/raisin pie and coffee/chocolate-wrapped in an edgy texture that's married to a clean herbal note. This is great drinking now with tangy hard cheese or with a rich pie that includes some dried fruit. (RP)

Champagne & Sparkling Wine

Champagne

**** drink now
Champagne de Saint-Gall Blanc de Blancs Brut Premier Cru
AOC Champagne, France $49.95 (542209)
An elegant Champagne with well-defined flavours, gentle mousse, and clean acidity. The flavours give you a range of citrus (lemon and grapefruit) with notes of brioche, poppy seed and nutmeg. Perfect as a pre-dinner aperitif or to pair with not-too-sweet and not-too-acidic lemon-based desserts. (RP)

**** drink now
Champagne Montaudon Brut
AOC Champagne, France $39.95 (503979)
A soft-textured Champagne for those who are put off by the hard acidity of some sparkling wines. The flavours here are sweet citrus, like pink grapefruit and ripe Mayer lemons, with some hard pear and toasty notes, and the mousse is gentle. Another easy-sipping wine, and good value for the quality. (RP)

Sparkling Wine

***1/2 drink now
Antech Blanquette de Limoux Grand Réserve Brut 2003
AOC Blanquette de Limoux, France $15.95 (656470)
An intriguing nose of freshly-baked bread and orange blossoms greet the taster while the attack is forceful and cleansing. A light to medium-bodied quaffer that is quite well balanced. It will provide a perfect welcoming sparkler during the upcoming holiday season. Would also work well with light canapés. Good value. (VH)

**** drink now
Banrock Station Sparkling Shiraz
Southeastern Australia $13.95 (971507)
Sparkling Shiraz, so cruelly denigrated by some wine-lovers who ought to know better, is an Australian heritage wine. It might look like a novelty seeking a niche, but it's been around for more than a hundred years. This well-priced version is chock full of dark berry and tree fruit, with spicy and peppery notes. The bubbles cut the fruit sweetness and it makes a fine sipping wine or a partner to blackberry pie or tart, as long as you hold back on the sugar. (RP)

Canada: White Table Wine

Ontario

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cave Spring Riesling Icewine 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $59.95 (447441)
An absolutely seamless integration of fruit (pineapple, peaches and pears), sugar and acid has produced a perfectly balanced wine. Not the least bit cloying, the texture is plush, the flavours vibrant and the finish is fruit-forward and laser-like in its palate-cleansing ability. This medium-bodied treasure will drink well over the next 5 years, on its own or with simple fruit (apple, pear, peach) desserts. (VH)

British Columbia

****1/2 drink now
Mission Hill Family Estate Pinot Gris Reserve 2004
VQA Okanagan Valley $18.95 (537076)
An aromatic and spicy gem providing a welcomed wave of relief in a world of wine awash in mediocre, and worse, Pinot Gris. The nose has floral and apple pie spice aromas while the supple mouth feel is generously infused with more spiced apple and sweet (13.5% alc.) poached pear flavours. The luxurious fruity finish has great balance and a touch of delicious tang. Try a veal dish in a creamy white sauce. (VH)

Canada: Red Table Wine

Ontario

**** drink or cellar
Cave Spring Syrah 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (660340)
Some Niagara wineries are putting a lot of Syrah into the ground in the belief that it will prove a winner. This example of Cave Spring comes from fruit grown in a warm location in a great year, and it's an indication of what's to come when the vines get some age. Look for quite intense fruit flavours (cherry, red berry) with accents of spice and pepper. The balance is very good, and this pairs well with grilled lamb or veal. (RP)

**** drink now
Colio 'CEV' Gamay Noir 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $13.95 (342451)
A big, juicy Gamay from Ontario's warm Lake Erie North Shore wine region. When you see Gamay here, don't think of faint-flavoured, pale-hued wine. This Gamay has very good flavour concentration, lovely texture, and fine balance. It's great value at this price, and it would have gone very well with that roast turkey you had at Thanksgiving. (RP)

****1/2 cellar
Henry of Pelham Cabernet/Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (395855)
The lifted nose is redolent of cranberries and sour cherries with an herbaceous nuance. There are copious amounts of black ripe fruit flavours (cherry and plum) wrapped up in ripe, but perceptible tannins. The finish is fruit-forward with considerable grip, making this a candidate for drinking in 2008 to 2012 with any manner of grilled red meat. Make mine a rare strip lion. (VH)

U.S.A.: White Table Wine

California

****1/2 drink now
Ironstone 'Obsession' Symphony 2004
California $14.95 and 375 ml $7.95 (355784)
Considering the almost cult wine status this has earned, it is a 'must try' white for those who haven't. Lychees, rosewater and Turkish delight aromatics form the glorious and generous nose. The mélange of tropical fruit flavours are delicately balanced with a zesty citrus tang and cleansing sweet/sour finish that begs for green curry chicken with peas and rice. Would make the perfect welcoming aperitif, as well. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Ironstone Viognier 2004
California $16.95 (946665)
A straightforward, unpretentious Viognier from one of California's reliable producers. Look for the classic apricot and peach aromas and flavours and good balance and length. Pair it up with grilled shrimp with a touch of ginger. (RP)

Red Table Wine

California

**** drink or cellar
Ironstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
California $17.95 also 375 ml $9.45 (537597)
A rich nose of cedar and cassis melds nicely into flavours of black cherries, black currants and coffee. This has good grip from perceptible, but acceptable tannins while the finish is lengthy and fleshy. You could drink now, aerate for 3 to 4 hours, with rare or medium-rare grilled beef or over the next 3 or 4 years with rich stew, like cassoulet. This is a tad pricey considering the buying power of the LCBO, but still a lovely wine. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Sonoma County $24.95 (226944)
Great Cab typicity here with aromatics of cassis, mint and raspberries and a flavour profile of black, ripe juicy cherries, tobacco and spice. There is a lot going on here with silky tannins and a finish that has peppery chocolate and mint under those sweet (14.1% alc.) black currant flavours. It is well balanced and would pair well, from now to 2012, with game (elk, venison) or rabbit stew. (VH)

Washington State

***** drink or cellar
Columbia Crest 'Grand Estates' Merlot 2001
Columbia Valley $19.95 (263418)
Washington state has developed a reputation for Merlot, and this very well-priced example shows why. It's a big, plush-textured wine with lots of fruit complexity (dark cherry, plum, berry) with notes of oak, coffee and chocolate. It rated high on the wow-meter with me, and I envisage drinking it with a well-seasoned, medium-rare steak. (RP)

Argentina: Red Table Wine

**** drink or cellar
Benmarco Malbec 2002
Mendoza $19.95 (657601)
One of those huge Malbecs that are coming out of Argentina. It's all dark fruit (plum, cherry, black berries) with a scattering of spices (pepper, cloves), all wrapped in very firm tannins. But the balance is well done, and although this is full bodied, it isn't heavy. Drink it as you would in Argentina, with a hunk of barbecued beef. (RP)

**** drink now
Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah/Bonarda 2003
Mendoza $13.95 (657619)
A 50:50 blend of Syrah and Bonarda, which is more and more common as a blending grape in Argentina. The result here is not too complex, but it's juicy, generous, big-flavoured and has New World written all over it. It makes for excellent value as a mid-week red that will pair with pizza, burgers, and many red meat dishes. At this price, stock up on a few bottles. (RP)

Chile: White Table Wine

****1/2 drink now
Viña Morandé 'Terrarum' Reserve Chardonnay 2004
Casablanca Valley $13.95 (660894)
The very generous nose bursts forth with honey dew melon and a cornucopia of stone fruit aromatics. Flavours include tropical fruit, red apples and tangy citrus notes that balance it all off nicely. This medium to full-bodied effort is extremely well made with a sweet fruit (14% alc.) and zippy finish that begs for poached white fish with a béarnaise sauce or Pork Oscar. Great value here. (VH)

Chile: Red Table Wine

**** drink now
Morandé 'Terrarum' Reserve Carmenère 2003
Maipo Valley $13.95 (938720)
Gotta love Camenère! It's probably as simple-minded to love a variety as to hate it (as some people hate Chardonnay). But I find something compelling about this grape, and this bottle from Morandé hasn't dulled my enthusiasm. For a good price you get a red with fleshy texture, intense flavours of ripe dark fruit, plenty of complexity, and a long, powerful finish. Pair it with grilled lamb. (RP)

Australia: White Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
St. Hallett Semillon 2002
Barossa Valley, South Australia $18.95 (658005)
The Barossa and St. Hallett are better known for Shiraz, but this effort shows neither are one-trick ponies. Beeswax and citrussy/mineraly on the nose, it gets into high gear on the full-fruit palate (huge gobs of nuts, white peaches and lemon zest) and lengthy luxurious finish. A bit like a search for the Holy Grail, but buy 2 bottles, drink one now with all manner of fish or seafood, cellar the other until 2012 and see if it develops into one of the near-religious experiences a classy aged Semillon is wont to do. (VH)

Australia: Red Table Wine

*** drink now
Ceravolo Shiraz 2003
Adelaide Plains, South Australia $19.95 (927532)
A great effort from a challenging vintage should put this grower-turned-winery on your radar screen for future offerings. Spicy chocolate and cherry nuances can be coaxed from the glass of this opaque red from SA. The fruit flavours are spiced berry jam with a nice tangy acidity wrapped in firm tannins. A well-balanced finish wraps it up. (VH)

***** drink now two glasses

Elderton 'Friends' Shiraz 2003
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (660480)
Since winning the Jimmy Watson back in 1993 with a Cabernet Sauvignon, Elderton has been on everyone's hit parade and both Rod and I loved this one. Cranberry, mocha and blueberry aromas emanate from the glass. This full-bodied fruit bomb explodes on the palate with rich, dripping with sweet juice, cherries, bramble berries and black plums. There is a seamless transition of more of the same to the finish with silky smooth tannins giving structure and texture, but no overt drying sensation. "Wine of the Month" prices have edged up; in this instance quality has more than kept pace. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Leasingham 'Magnus' Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Clare Valley, South Australia $16.95 (995787)
Full-bodied, full-fruit, and fool-proof if you're looking for a quality red at a good price. You'll find here concentrated dark fruit (plum, cherry), soft texture, good balance, and a long finish. It's a natural for flavoursome red meat dishes, like grilled or roasted game. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Olsen Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (689927)
Pleasant tale of a bloke starting off as a wine agent then a grower, taking a punt on opening a winery and making it all work. This offering has a cherry and raspberry jam nose then turns into a real ripper on the palate with a gorgeous chewy attack of perfectly balanced sweet (14.2% alc.) fruit (cassis, raspberries and cherries), ripe and silky tannins and a spine of tangy acidity. Descriptors that spring to mind include finesse, classy, elegant and bonza. Pair with grilled rare t-bone steak from now until 2012. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Riverina Wines, Warburn Premium Reserve Cabernet/Merlot 2002
Riverina, New South Wales $17.95 (590224)
With a swag of show medals hanging from the bottle, it is hard to give this a miss. This region produces a great deal of wine with some of it now reaching the fine wine category, as this does. An intense nose of raspberry compote jumps from the glass while in the mouth it turns into creamy, spicy cherry pie filling wrapped around a firm tannin structure. The finish is more of the same and a lovely tang that cleans it up nicely. Try this, now to 2010, with marinated (Asian spices) pork tenderloin. (VH)

New Zealand: White Table Wine

**** drink now
Fairhall Downs Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough $19.95 (990580)
We seem to be flooded by New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, but this one rises a little above the rest by offering unusual complexity. It's rounder in texture and a touch riper in the fruit flavours (passion fruit, pineapple) than many, and it retains the characteristic zestiness that makes it an excellent partner for fresh oysters. (RP)

New Zealand: Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink now
Alpha Domus Pinot Noir 2002
Hawkes Bay $21.95 (659961)
The involved and beguiling nose of raspberries, blueberries, currants and spice portend a gorgeous wine. A tour de force in winemaking: 2kg per vine, multi-clones, cold soak, basket pressed, 11 months of French oak, only slight filter and no fining, 14% alcohol. A full palate of red cherries and spice is wrapped around a delicate core of earthy, mineral tones. This is the real deal for Pinot lovers, with a strikingly fruity and well-balanced finish. Very good value from a fabulous wine maker and winery. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Fairhall Downs Pinot Noir 2002
Marlborough, South Island $34.95 (656702)
A decidedly New World Pinot Noir, with generous fruit and almost plump texture. The pure fruit flavours are all cherry and plum, with notes of earth, smoke, herbs, spice and pepper. This is a Pinot for heavier, more intensely-flavoured food, like steak or game. (RP)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Spy Valley Pinot Noir 2003
Marlborough, South Island $26.95 (734681)
Earthy, cedar and cranberry aromas waft from the glass of this light to medium-bodied red. There are some very nice sweet red berry flavours (currant and cranberry) on the palate with evident tannins playing in the background. The finish is clean and zesty suggesting a pairing with pasta and a vegetarian tomato-based sauce, now to 2009. (VH)

South Africa: Red Table Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Delheim Pinotage 2003
WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch $18.95 (714253)
Whether you like Pinotage in the older or newer styles, try this one. It manages to straddle the two, with intense dark and red fruit flavours (plum, cherry) with pepper accents and the characteristic layer of smokiness. Try it with barbecued ribs with a not-too-sweet sauce. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mischa Estate 'Eventide' Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
WO Wellington $19.95 (657692)
An intricate nose of smoke, oak and crème de cassis leads the way to an intensely fruit flavoured palate of sweet ripe black cherries and minty plums with distinct nuances of tar and black licorice. This dark and brooding Cab has excellent depth and structure while retaining its crowd pleasing nature with lots of sweet ripe fruit. A lovely finish marks this as a well made and well priced wine. (VH)

**** drink now
Mischa Estate 'Eventide' Shiraz 2003
WO Wellington $19.95 (657684)
A big Shiraz with full-on, ripe, concentrated dark fruit and earthy, pepper and spicy notes. It's well put together, with firm, ripe tannins, very good balance, and a long, measured finish. All together, it's very well made and good value at this price. You can cellar it for another year or two, but it's drinking well now. Pair it with big red meat dishes. (RP)

France: White Table Wine

Alsace

**** drink now
Cave de Turckheim Riesling 'Herrenweg' 2001
AOC Alsace $17.95 (660183)
This is maximum expression of the Riesling grape with minimum intervention from this well known and well-respected cooperative. There is an aromatic nose of fennel and stone fruit that opens the door to a deftly structured white of laser-like lemon zest coupled with wonderful white peach and pomegranate flavours. It is tangy and well balanced, suggesting a pairing with Alsatian choucroute. (VH)

**** drink now
Klur 'Cuvée Katz' (Tokay) Pinot Gris 2002
AOC Alsace $19.95 (656884)
White pepper and spice aromatics greet the taster before the glorious creamy mouthfeel and cornucopia of spiced apple, pear and peach flavours take command. The finish is stunning with all the flavours and zesty citrus nuances washing the palate as smooth as satin. This would be well matched to a clove-infused baked ham. (VH)

Burgundy

**** drink or cellar
Domaine des Malandes Chablis 'Vau de Vey' 2002
AOC Chablis 1er Cru $29.95 (701219)
A muted nose of pears and flowers does not prepare one for the plush mouth feel and amazing array of fruit flavours including, pineapple, lemon and various other tropical fruits. The long cleansing mineral finish suggests a classic pairing with freshly shucked oysters or spicy marinated squid. Even the ABC crowd will love this. It is extremely well priced for a wine of this breeding and character. Drink now to 2010. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Laroche 'Barrique Réserve' Bourgogne Chardonnay 2002
AOC Burgundy $15.95 (656827)
Don't be fooled by the generic "Burgundy" appellation or by the addition of "Chardonnay" to the label for the export market. This is a fine Burgundy that's rich and complex in flavour (ripe pear, white peach), medium in body, round and dry in texture, and long in finish. The barrel fermentation and aging adds to the complexity and texture more than the flavour. It's excellent value (especially given the producer) and pairs very well with chicken pot pie or roast pork. (RP)

France: Red Table Wine

Bordeaux

****1/2 drink now
Château les Cabannes 2002
AOC St-Émilion Grand Cru $27.95 (973727)
A lovely, quite elegant Merlot-dominant Bordeaux with ripe dark fruit (plum, cherry) and good flavour complexity (earthy, spicy notes). The tannins are good and quite firm, but this is ready to drink now and over the next three years. Pair it with roast or grilled lamb. (RP)

Burgundy

***** cellar two glasses
Patrice Rion Gevrey-Chambertin 'Clef du Sol' 2002
AOC Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru $84.95 (654749)
Vic and I loved this. It's not inexpensive, but it's a great wine and another reminder, if you need one, of why so many wine-lovers say that Burgundy reaches heights most other regions can only aspire to. This starts out with a lovely perfumed nose, moves to an elegant palate of focused fruit that's as broad as it's deep, and ends with a remarkable finish. The tannins still conceal the wine-in-progress, though, and I'd tuck this one away for at least another five years, then drink it over the next five to eight. (RP)

Midi

**** drink now
Château Valoussière 2000
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $12.95 (652255)
The shy nose of cedar and prunes provides a quiet segue to this aged medium-bodied red that is tipped in your favour on the quality to price scale. The palate is drenched with rich, black, concentrated fruit from the Bing cherry orchard side of things. The lengthy finish carries on with more of the same including a nice tang of acidity and enough grip to make it well-balanced and interesting. Buy some to pair over the winter with pasta and arrabbiata sauce. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Guy Chevalier 'L'Église' 2002
AOC Corbières $12.95 (658153)
An idiosyncratic nose that almost defies description. I'll try gunflint, spice, quince, anise and tobacco. There are concentrated dark sweet fruit (plums and raspberry jam) flavours on the palate with perceptible ripe tannins providing a medium-bodied texture. A perfect wine for those who like theirs on the wild side with a fruity and rustic finish that includes bramble berries and sage. Try with Caribbean beef jerk steak. (VH)

Germany: White Table Wine

Nahe

****1/2 drink or cellar
Carl Finkenauer Riesling Kabinett 2003
QmP $15.95 (657163)
A very well-priced Riesling that gives you quite intense fruit (peach, pear, tropical, with hints of spice) and nicely-pitched off-dry richness, all set off by good acidity. It's a delicious mouthful that's worth trying if you're still unsure about the merits of "sweet" German wine. Pair it with seared scallops. (RP)

Rheingau

**** drink now
Josef Leitz Riesling Kabinett 2004
QmP, Estate Btld. $14.95 (662189)
The '04 vintage in the Rheingau is rated as exceptional. Mineral, slate and citrus aromas waft from this beautifully balanced off-dry white. Flavours include a mélange of fruit (peaches and poached pears predominant) and the medium-bodied texture holds true to the lengthy finish that adds that stunning sweet/sour zingy finish that makes these such perfect food wines. This low alcohol (9%) gem would be the perfect foil to Pad Thai or curried chicken dishes. Good value. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Prinz Von Hessen Riesling Kabinett 2003
QmP $17.95 (657155)
An aromatic nose of peaches and cloves opens the door to this medium-bodied Riesling that certainly will improve with age. There are huge ladles of tropical fruit, especially nectarines, and spiced lemons on the palate. The lengthy finish is zesty and medium-sweet making it a candidate to be matched with tangy cheese, try Stilton or a mild goat cheese with a ripe pear, or a baked ham. Drink now to 2012. (VH)

Italy: Red Table Wine

Campania

**** drink or cellar
Ocone Aglianico del Taburno 2001
DOC Campania $15.95 (658336)
We see too little Aglianico, an Italian grape that produces some delicious and affordable wines. But here's one of them, so make sure you test drive it, preferably in the company of medium-rare to rare grilled red meat. The wine is multi-layered, with concentrated flavours of dried and fresh fruit, and good tannic dryness. It's at once fruity with an austere undertone, and you can drink it now and over the next three or four years. (RP)

Piedmont

****1/2 drink now
Batasiolo Langhe Rosso 2003
DOC Piedmont $14.95 (981019)
The quiet nose of freshly crushed cherries does nothing to alert the taster to the treat lurking in the glass. Blended from a variety of indigenous grapes, this is fruit-laden, well structured and perfectly balanced. Oodles of cassis, raspberries and red licorice on the medium to full-bodied palate and while the tannins are certainly there, they are ripe and fine-grained. The finish is more of the same suggesting a pairing with whatever tomato and meat sauce you serve with pasta at your house. Outstanding value and worthy of a multiple purchase. (VH)

Puglia

**** drink now
Santa Barbara Primitivo di Manduria 2000
DOC Puglia $11.95 (587543)
Here's a bargain that will carry you seamlessly from the last barbecues of fall to the first red meat meals of winter. At this price, you can buy a case, because this will drink well for the next two years. It's big and fruity (black plum, blackberry) with smoke and leather notes. The firm tannins and balanced acidity keep everything in place. (RP)

Tuscany

***** drink or cellar
Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 1999
DOCG Montalcino $54.95 (651588)
Brunello is the grape (aka Sangiovese Grosso) and Montalcino is a picturesque medieval town in Tuscany. If you don't plan on being there in the next little bit, this will help soften the blow. It's showing its age on the bricky rim, but there's life left in this medium to full-bodied beauty. A floral and a spicy, nutty nose drifts from a red that oozes rich and concentrated sweet black ripe fruit flavours. The finish is lengthy and monumental with cherries, leather, garrigue and an endearing tangy/rustic quality. Drink now to 2012. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico 2002
DOCG Chianti $22.95 (680496)
A very complex wine that offers dried and fresh fruit flavours along with some spicy and earthy notes. It's medium bodied and well made. You can drink it now but you'd be better off waiting another two or three years for the tannins to soften and allow the fruit to express itself more articulately. Then partner it with a hearty lamb stew. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Cecchi 'Bonizio' Sangiovese di Maremma 2003
IGT Toscana $11.95 (652784)
This is straightforward, uncomplicated and good value red wine. Lots of cherry and earthy aromas with sweet, ripe bramble and raspberry flavours, No sharp corners or rough edges on the smooth and silky finish. Pair with Friday night pizza. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Marchesi Antinori 'Badia a Passignano' Chianti Classico Riserva 2000
DOCG Chianti Classico $39.95 (384552)
A great price for a tremendous example of Chianti. This is classic Chianti (and not just in the sense of the appellation), with elegant aromatics and classy flavours of plum, cherry, spice and herbs. It's plush and smooth, and beautifully balanced. While you can drink this now, it will pay two or three years' cellaring. (RP)

***** cellar two glasses
Michele Satta 'Piastraia' Rosso 2001
DOC Bolgheri $39.95 (709980)
This wine achieves a perfect marriage of power and elegance. Blending Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, it offers a complex mélange of fresh and dried fruit, with dried meat, savoury, spice and yeasty accents-but this is a case where the string of descriptors fails to capture the sum of the parts. It has real depth and elegance but they're so tightly held in the tannic grip that it would be a pity to open it until 2010. (RP)

Portugal: Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
José Maria da Fonseca & Van Zeller 'Domini Plus' 2001
DOC Douro $29.95 (956078)
Aromatics of rich black plums with nuances of currants and smoke waft from the glass of this warm fruit-forward red from a region more famous for its Port. This wine utilizes four of the top Port grapes and it shows on the palate with hugely extracted black fruit, exuberant spice and a finish that is luxurious, a touch oaky (8 months in American oak) and grippy at the same time. Drink now, if you dare, until 2012. Very classy affair. (VH)

Spain: Red Table Wine

***** drink or cellar two glasses
Bodegas Muga Reserva 2001
DOC Rioja $19.95 (177345)
Family-owned Muga uses only oak throughout the entire wine production and maintain their own cooperage. The majority of grapes are estate and from the superior Rioja Alta sub region. Tobacco, spiced plum and black licorice aromas entice the taster then the rich, concentrated flavours of raspberry, cherries and currants take over. This satiny smooth, medium-bodied marvel finishes off in grand style with a lengthy display of perfectly balanced fruit, ripe tannin and deftly handled oak. Buy one as a gift for a special friend then a case for yourself and drink until 2010. A truly stunning value. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Sierra Cantabria Tinto 2003
DOC Rioja $12.95 (983841)
A perennial all star for quality of wine and positive quality to price ratio. This 100% Tempranillo is right on the money, a scant half star short of the blockbuster '02. The nose is redolent of cranberries and strawberries while the palate is refreshing and clean with Montmorency cherry flavours plus a hint of red licorice. The finish is a seamless replay adding on a layer of sweet vanilla. An outstanding effort in a stiflingly hot vintage. (VH)

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3
stars Wines well worth trying
2

stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1
star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half
star Represents a half star
2
glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or
cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar


Cheers!

Vic and Rod