June 28, 2013 Newsletter

Wine Industry Calls on Provinces to Open Borders to Direct Wine Delivery

Our friends from Canadian Vintners Association have provided a disturbing update on federal Bill C-311 passed one year ago to allow winery-to-consumer, inter-provincial delivery of wine. You may be familiar with Mark Hicken’s site WineLaw; he provides up to date information on this, as does FreeMyGrapes. To date, only two provinces have complied with the intent and spirit of the law—BC and Manitoba. Read more here…

Highlights include:

• Exceptional value wines – only 3 (out of 40) wines meet the strict price/quality criteria; easily found by spotting the icon.
• Vic’s picks – 4½ stars $14.95 Château des Charmes Gamay Noir Droit under Ontario: Red Wine—Canada’s first vitis vinifera vine and 4½ stars, $18.95 Cave de Lugny Crémant de Bourgogne Vintage 2010 under ‘Sparkling Wine’.
• 5 stars – there’s one in the newsletter – A $21.95 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from Seresin in the Terroir-driven Feature with
• July 1 – LCBO stores across Ontario are closed Monday, July 1, 2013.

There are 38 reviews from the July 6, 2013 Vintages Release beginning with the California and Terroir-driven Features plus two more wines following.

You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting before then. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first. 

July 6, 2013 Vintages Release

California Feature

Bonterra Viognier 2011
Mendocino County $19.95 (128900) 14.5% alcohol
Honeysuckle, pit fruit and exotic spice aromas abound in this racy, flavourful beauty. Nectarine, white peach and racy citrus meld into a nicely textured, lip-smacking river, cascading over the palate, infusing the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. It’s mid weight with a balanced and beautiful aftertaste—lemon curd and oodles of charm. Pour on its own or with chicken kiev with olive-oiled pasta. (Vic Harradine)


Ironstone Chardonnay 2010
California $17.95 (355776) 13.5% alcohol
A trusted producer, Ironstone delivers or over delivers value, every time, every wine. The alluring nose of sweet vanilla, Asian spice and toasty bits presage a creamy smooth and balanced wash of crisp, green apple, lemony citrus and nuances of tropical fruit. It’s medium-full bodied with a delectable finish of nutty-toasty notes and a salad bowl of orchard fruit. (Vic Harradine)


Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Merlot 2010
Sonoma County and Napa Valley $19.95 (135384) 13.9% alcohol
Cedar, dark berry fruit and aromatic bitters on the nose, it coats the palate with deep, rich, gorgeous flavours—black currant, dark cherry and spice wreathed in milk chocolate. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a rich and robust aftertaste—espresso roast, dark berry fruit and mocha. Lovely sipped on its own or poured alongside gourmet burgers or gilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Conundrum ‘Red’ 2010
California $24.95 (294298) 14.5% alcohol
The Conundrum white’s a long-time winecurrent fav; first crack we’ve had at the red. It’s a real crowd pleaser with no rough edges and charm galore. Dark rich cherry/berry aromas and spice provide segue for a thick, juicy splash of cassis, kirsch liqueur and black currant jam. Medium-plus weight with generous texture, balance and complexity, the aftertaste is fruit-forward and delicious. (Vic Harradine)


La Crema Chardonnay 2011
Monterey $24.95 (158683) 13.5% alcohol
This is a crisp, refreshing zinger of a Chardonnay with toast, binned apple and cedar aromas on the nose. Piquant spice and crisp, Granny Smith apple streak across the palate wreathed in pithy, lemon zest and minerality. It’s medium bodied with wood char and toasty oak broadening out on the aftertaste with riper pit fruit and notions of tropical fruit. (Vic Harradine)


Francis Coppola ‘Sofia’ Rosé 2012
Monterey County $19.95 (284943) 12.5% alcohol
Complex and worthy of your attention, this savoury Rosé is mid weight with decent texture and a tons of spicy zip. Red bell pepper, watermelon and strawberry wash across the palate in waves leading to a racy, refreshing finish redolent of savory spice, red currant and tangy, racy Ruby Red grapefruit. Serve chilled on its own or alongside white pizza garnished with oiled arugula. (Vic Harradine)


Beringer Founders’ Estate Syrah 2009 

California $18.95 (919654) 13.9% alcohol 

This inky purple, fruit-forward Syrah offers lovely spicy, floral aromas mingling with sweet, dark ripe fruit and nuances of licorice. The fruit’s framed by ripe tannin and fresh acidity. It’s medium-bodied with good texture. Dark berries and plum on the palate, there’s tang, white pepper, cocoa and spice on the mid-length, dry aftertaste. Enjoy it with saucy ribs. (Susan Desjardins)


Stags’ Leap Winery Viognier 2012
Napa Valley $36.95 (597369) 14.2% alcohol
Aromas of pit fruit, wild flowers and minerality intro a medium-bodied, nicely textured wave of tropical fruit, yellow plum and spirited lemon acidity bathing the palate. It’s balanced and beautiful with good sense of purpose replaying and persisting through the finish and lip-smacking finish. Give it a go with pan-seared scallops or creamed chicken in pasta. (Vic Harradine)


Ridge Vineyards Estate Chardonnay 2011
Santa Cruz Mountains $55.95 (241646) 14.1% alcohol
From one of the iconic 3 Rs of Zinfandel—Ridge, Rosenblum, Ravenswood—Ridge also make terrific Chardonnay. The sexy nose of sandalwood, rose petals and sweet vanilla connects with a gorgeous, complex gusher of luscious lemon chiffon pie filling, grilled pineapple and cream smooth lemon yoghurt. Medium bodied and quite nicely textured, the aftertaste is complex and balanced finishing with good tang and lots of charm. (Vic Harradine)


Seghesio Zinfandel 2011
Sonoma County $29.95 (942151) 14.8% alcohol
A moderately priced California Zin offering good value and plenty of rich, luscious fruit-forward tang—some of the fruit in here was sourced from vines planted in 1895. There’s good weight and mouth feel presaged by lifted aromas of spice-infused red cherry and juicy bramble berry. Sweet, ripe mulberry and cassis mingle with espresso roast and spice through the endless finish. It’s put together deftly and all adds up to a top drop. (Vic Harradine)

Terroir-driven/White wine Feature

Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2011
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $23.95 (183491) 11.5% alcohol
Lime, slate and sharp spicy notes mingle with early hints of petrol aromas on this well-strung Riesling. Racy, crisp flavours play off tropical fruit on the palate replaying on the lingering, crisp, lip-smacking finish. The aftertaste layers on key lime pie. This is structured, full of nerve and verve and fairly priced. Pour with prawn ceviche or mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)


Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (735043) 13.5% alcohol
Smoky, mineral and passion fruit aromas abound on the vibrant nose. All hand-picked, organically grown fruit, 15% was fermented is seasoned barrels. There’s a 5% splash of Semillon in here. It’s complex, richly textured with mid weight and deft balance along with plenty of flavour—honey dew melon, pineapple, and guava drizzled with fresh lime juice. The finish replays those flavours with added notions of ginger and citrus tang. It’s crisp and refreshing on the long aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Rabl Käferberg Grüner Veltliner 2011
Kamptal Reserve $19.95 (032532) 13.5% alcohol
White pepper, floral notes and melon aromas on the nose, this unfurls on the palate in a gorgeous wash of mid-weight, generously textured, rich, fruit-laden flavours—tangy apricot and racy lemon zest mingling with honeyed nectarine and sweet pit fruit. It’s complex, balanced, smooth and mellow with a finish that’s crisp and lingering. Pour with roast pork or pan-seared salmon under a squish of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)


Loosen Bros ‘Dr. L.’ Riesling 2011
Qualitätswein $13.95 (599274) 8.5% alcohol
Subtle aromas of minerality and floral notes open this perennial favourite presaging a light-on-its-feet bathing of off-dry, honeyed peach and ripe mango interweaving with spirited, racy citrus acidity. This sweet and tang sets up the yin and yang that showcases this as a go-to wine pairing with spicy Asian cuisine like pad Thai or butter chicken. (Vic Harradine)


Martin Códax Albariño 2011 

DO Rias Baixas, Spain $17.95 (984906) 12.5% alcohol 

Tucked away in NE Spain, off the tourist track; once you taste this you’ll want to visit. Light yellow with hints of green, this streaks across the palate with nerve, verve and sense of purpose. Aromas and flavours are sleek and focused. The nose offers citrus, green apple and minerality and these follow through on the palate and crisp, clean, refreshing aftertaste. A mouth-watering treat that stands well on its own or poured with freshly shucked oysters or tuna sashimi. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

Cave de Lugny ‘Cuvée Millésime’ Brut Crémant de Bourgogne 2010
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $18.95 (183764) 11.5% alcohol
This is rare as it’s vintage dated—all grapes from one harvest—2010, adding complexity, charm, additional aromas and flavours. Rising bread dough, wild flowers and sharp citrus notes blossom from the nose of this value-laden bubbly. It’s smooth as silk with generous mouth feel and good weight. Flavours of ripe apple, tropical fruit and tangy lemon citrus are borne along on a delightful profusion of bubbles. The finish is crisp, refreshing and lip-smacking delicious. Versatile at the table and always a hit at gatherings, pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Henry of Pelham ‘Family Tree White’ 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (251116) 13.0% alcohol 

Mostly Chardonnay with aromatic whites, Gewürztraminer, Viognier and Chardonnay Musqué, it’s a salad bowl of aromas with rosewater, honeysuckle and pit fruit to the fore. Broad, balanced and beautiful, there are palate-bathing flavours of lemon curd, white nectarine and melon galore. It’s medium bodied with silky-smooth texture and a lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste. Well paced, well priced… delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Strewn ‘Terroir’ Sauvignon Blanc 2011 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $17.95 (343897) 12.9% alcohol 

This is top-drawer Sauvignon Blanc with nerve, verve and a boatload of flavour. Alluring aromas of tropical fruit, peach and herbal notes provide segue for a river of palate-bathing flavours of tangy passion fruit, racy lime and slate/mineral notes. This bristles with lively acidity complemented by delectable fruit. The finish dishes up a lip-smacking experience. Dandy on its own, give it a go with mesclun under crumbled goat cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Château des Charmes ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet-Merlot 2010 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $19.95 (222372) 13.0% alcohol 

Aromas of cedar, dark berry fruit and notions of roasted herbs open this mid-weight, nicely textured red blend—split almost evenly between Cab Franc, Cab Sauv and Merlot. Dark berry fruit, tangy red cherry and charred toasty notes compete for attention. The fruity, lengthy finish has a dusting of tannin. Allow this to knit together, it’ll reward patience—pop corks 2015 to 2018 pouring alongside grilled strip loin or tenderloin of roast beef. If impatient, aerate/decant three hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)


Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ 2010

VQA St. David’s Bench $14.95 (346742) 13.0% alcohol

This is complex, structured, simply delicious and was propagated from a clone discovered in their vineyard, it’s Canada’s first vinifera vine. Aromas of blueberry, cherry and spice mingle with wisps of pipe tobacco on the alluring nose. Medium-full bodied and generously textured, waves of sour cherry and ripe black currant interlace with roasted herbs and black pepper. The finish lingers with a solid core of ripe fruit, fine-grained tannin, good moderating acidity and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

Featherstone Rosé 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (117861) 12.0% alcohol 

Produced from Gamay and Merlot, the deep rosy salmon color of this tasty Rosé portends the intensity of the aromas and flavours. Bursting with ripe, red field berries and cherries, apple skin and mineral notes, it also exhibits hints of spice and pepper. Dry, mid weight, all that juicy flavour is balanced with lively acidity right through the lasting, flavourful finish. A versatile, value-driven wine that will delight on its own or paired on a warm spring day with a balsamic beef and strawberry salad. (Susan Desjardins)


Southbrook ‘Triomphe Organic’ Cabernet Franc Rosé 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (279117) 12.5% alcohol
Electric pink, deftly balanced and flavour packed, aromas of tomato leaf and summer savory abound. It’s mid-full weight with creamy smooth mouth feel flowing over the palate with a persistent stream of tangy red currant and ripe strawberry interlaced with minerality and wisps of sharp radicchio, especially on the dry, crisp, mouth-watering aftertaste. Versatile with mains or salad; chicken, pork, veal or olive-oiled mesclun and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc 2010
Napa Valley $22.95 (221887) 13.5% alcohol
This signature wine was introduced and named by Robert Mondavi in 1968 to distinguish it from the sweet, un-nuanced Sauvignon Blanc on the U.S. market at the time. Partially barrel-fermented in seasoned oak, the wine has a lovely round texture and beautiful aromatics, including notes of tropical fruit, citrus, nut and a hint of crème brulée. Dry and lively on the palate, it offers great concentration, tasty apple and citrus notes, a wisp of smoke and a crisp, juicy finish. Beautiful balance, and a great match to Château Laurier’s chef Louis Simard’s asparagus salad with charred tomato and a basil/mint vinaigrette. (Susan Desjardins)

Washington State: Red Wine

Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Indian Wells’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Columbia Valley $24.95 (055764) 14.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of dark juicy berry fruit, toasty notes and peppery spice herald a rich and luscious river of palate-coating dark, juicy Bing cherry, sweet, ripe mulberry and wisps of espresso roast. It’s mid-full weight with good texture and a balanced fruit-laden aftertaste. Straightforward, nicely balanced and a perfect pour with grilled back ribs basted in spicy sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Decero Remolinos Vineyard Malbec 2010
Agrelo, Mendoza $22.95 (247304) 14.1% alcohol
Lively aromas of bramble berry, piquant spice and tarry notes provide segue for a concentrated, balanced and beautiful wash of tangy boysenberry and dark cherry interweaving with bittersweet chocolate and black licorice. It’s medium-plus bodied with good texture and a lengthy, fruity finish garnished with grippy tannin. Aerate/decant three hours and pour with seasoned, grilled beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Rutherglen Estates ‘Estate Grown’ Petit Sirah 2008

Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia $21.95 (179127) 14.5% alcohol 

Alluring aromas of mocha, roasted herbs and dark berry fruit provide segue to a mid-full weight, beautifully textured river of bramble berry and sweet, ripe mulberry interlaced with notions of black pepper and spice-infused dark plum. It’s well balanced with good moderating acidity and a mouth-watering finish that’s garnished with a supple tannin underpinning and plenty of charm. Good to go now with your favourite grilled meat. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Joseph Cattin Muscat 2011
AOC Alsace $15.95 (224634) 12.0% alcohol
Grapey, musk oil and spicy, floral notes introduce an off-dry, lighter-styled Muscat that will have great appeal for summertime sipping. The wine is crisp and refreshing with good acidity matching ripe, tropical fruit both on the palate and the aftertaste. Pour with fruit flan or stinky cheese like Oka—still made in Québec, now by Agropur, and by monks in Holland, MB, or Bleu Bénédictin—a monastic, Québécois, semi-soft, blue cheese. (Vic Harradine)


Jean-Max Roger ‘Cuvée Les Caillottes’ Sancerre 2011
AOC Sancerre $24.95 (065573) 12.6% alcohol
This Sauvignon Blanc is grown amongst ‘cailottes’—rounded vineyard stones—with clay-limestone soils. It produces a crisp, refreshing treat with a creamy-smooth mouth feel and a boatload of flavour. Indigenous-yeast fermented and aged on its lees—dead yeast cells—it produces aromas of baking bread, floral notes, minerality and oodles of tropical fruit and nectarine. The gorgeous texture—much from the lees—carries good weight with an array of refreshing flavour—lemon curd, more nectarine and ripe melon. The aftertaste is balanced, complex and lip-smacking. How good is that? (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château de Panigon 2010
AOC Médoc $18.95 (230367) 14.0% alcohol
Wood smoke, toasty bits and baking spice on the nose, this delivers medium-weight, nicely textured waves of juicy black currant, mocha and fennel—persistent, balanced and harmonious. The lingering aftertaste picks up on the black currant layering on a supple tannin underpinning, a focused line of moderating acidity and a splash of sweet, ripe mulberry. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)


Château Le Peyrat 2010
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux, Castillon $15.95 (171090) 14.5% alcohol
A complex and interesting nose of charry toast, lively cherry, pipe tobacco kitchen spice is harbinger of a serious flow of chunky flavour with black currant and dark cherry to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied, nicely textured with a tannin-laced finish of dark fruit and excellent balancing acidity. Pour 2015 to 2020; it’s a very good wine, from a great vintage to start, or add to, a modest cellar. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

Domaine de la Garenne Bandol Rosé 2010
AP Bandol $19.95 (323550) 13.5% alcohol
Bandol’s long been a go-to spot in winecurrent for meaty, flavour-packed Rosé—this Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Grenache red blend wafts from the glass with pit fruit, citrus and beguiling aromas of local ‘garrigue’—Provençal herbs. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel, sporting a lively wash of ripe strawberry and wisps of red currant interlaced with watermelon and mixed herbs and spice. The finish is balanced, dry and mouth-watering delicious. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Marchesi di Barolo ‘Maràia’ Barbera Monferrato 2011
DOC Barbera Monferrato $16.95 (748277) 13.0% alcohol
Grown in the hills of Monferrato, this Barbera dishes up a smoky nose of dark berry fruit and espresso roast aromas mingling with floral notes. Lively sour cherry, juicy black currant and sweet vanilla streak over the palate garnished with a solid spine of racy acidity. It’s mid weight and lip-smacking good with a dry and interesting aftertaste of cherries and spice-laden black plum. (Vic Harradine)


Mocine Toscana 2011 

IGT Toscana, Italy $19.95 (332940) 14.0% alcohol 

This organic red blend is primarily from hand-picked, wild-yeast fermented, Sangiovese that saw no oak. Herbs, rich, dark, berry fruit and dark cherry aromas provide segue to a lively, juicy wash of herbs and spice, sweet ripe mulberry and red cherry interwoven with good moderating acidity and a lick of still-resolving tannin. It’s mid weight and lingers on the dry aftertaste with racy pomegranate, black olive and dried currant. Give it a go after a two-hour aeration/decant poured with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)


Santa Margherita Chianti Classico 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (091694) 13.5% alcohol
Red cherry, gamy and wood smoke on the nose, a spirited wash of tangy sour cherry and black currant mingle with cherry toast and spice on the palate. It’s well paced with good focus of flavour and a lingering aftertaste of red cherry and a supple tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with meat-laden red pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Templários ‘Colheita Seleccionada’ Touriga Nacional/Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
IGP Tejo $15.95 (332981) 14.0% alcohol
Founded in the 12th C, the area was conquered and donated to the Knights Templar. The grapes were hand-harvested and wild-yeast fermented – varieties separately – before aging 6 months in French and American oak. Lively aromas of cedar and mint-brushed cherry herald a balanced, medium-plus bodied, smooth-as-satin wash of gorgeous flavour. Dried currant, red and black cherry mingle with exotic spice, moderating acidity and supple tannin on the palate and lengthy aftertaste. This is very good value. (Vic Harradine)

Spanish: Red Wine

Montebuena ‘Cuvée KPG’ 2010
DOCa Rioja $14.95 (211029) 14.0% alcohol
Montebuena is a brand from the large Basque cooperative with an excellent track record of producing quality wine. Red cherry, floral notes and Asian spice aromas presage a smooth and balanced wash of red and black currant and cherry. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with lingering, dry aftertaste. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)


Pinyolet Garnacha 2011
DO Montsant $17.95 (171791) 14.0% alcohol
There’s lots on offer here: +50-year-old vines, an ultra-smooth and creamy mouth feel, oodles of flavour. It’s also very good value. Spirited aromas and flavours include minerality, a solid line of racy acidity balanced nicely with red and dark cherry/berry fruit garnished with herbs and spice. It’s mid weight with a lingering, lively, dry finish. Pour with spaghetti Bolognese or meat lasagna. (Vic Harradine)


Viña Olabarri ‘Gran Reserva’ 2004
DOCa Rioja $24.95 (329102) 13.5% alcohol
A fabulous bouquet of leather, prune plum and exotic spice intro this well-aged Gran Reserva, Tempranillo. It’s followed by a gorgeous river of tangy, feisty flavour—blueberry, red cherry and black and red currant mingling with spice and red licorice. It’s nicely balanced and drinking now; pour with prawn and chorizo paella, sausage-filled manicotti or meat loaf. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: August 3, 2013

Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Zinfandel 2011
Sonoma and San Joaquin Counties $19.95 (135384) 15.4% alcohol
This sports classic Zin aromas with loads of dark berry jam and baking spice. On the palate, a gusher of black Bing cherry and bramble berry jam garnished with bittersweet chocolate and wisps of sweet vanilla meld with excellent moderating acidity. It makes for a balanced and fruit-laden Zin that’s medium-full weight with good mouth feel and a spicy fruit-forward aftertaste; it’s good value. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: August 17, 2013

Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley and Sonoma County $19.95 (135376) 13.9% alcohol
Exotic spice, black licorice and cassis aromas presage a medium-plus bodied, spirited wash of tangy, black currant and ripe, juicy Bing cherry garnished with toasty bits and wisps of tannin. This sports a satin-smooth texture and a lengthy, balanced aftertaste. Good to go now with grilled red meat, gourmet sausage or meat-lovers pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan