June 5, 2013 Newsletter

Canada Day is just around the corner; you’ll want to stock up on Ontario wines. We’ve flagged them . Most are available now and you can take advantage of the stunning vintages experienced recently in Ontario. There are 12 to choose from in this issue.

May 25th Vintages Release wines are reviewed following the June 8th Vintages Release reviews.

Highlights in the June 8th winecurrent newsletter also include:

• Ontario Wineries – 13th Street, Cattail Creek, Château des Charmes, Featherstone, Fielding, Malivoire, Pondview and The Foreign Affair have fabulous wines available at the LCBO or via home delivery from the winery.
• Exceptional value wines – eight wines meet the strict price/quality criteria – a bonanza; four in the Main Release, four following, priced $13.95 – $17.95
• Finding Waldo – from one of the hot new regions, Bierzo; vinified from old vines and the grape, Mencia, aka Jaen; inky purple, rich & concentrated; 4½ stars.
• Susan Selects – it’s 4½ stars, $14.95 and she says, load up the cart! Les Vignes ‘Bila-Haut’ Côtes du Roussillon-Villages 2011 under France: Red Wine.

This newsletter has 37 reviews from the June 8, 2013 Vintages Release beginning with the Argentina Feature. There were almost 50 wines tasted, spat and reviewed here.

You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting before then. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

Vintages Release: June 8, 2013

Argentina Feature

Graffigna ‘Grand Reserve’ Malbec 2010
San Juan $17.95 (162149) 14.5% alcohol
Tobacco, piquant spice and dark berry fruit aromas provide segue to a rich and robust wash of luscious black fruit—currant, cherry and mulberry. It’s mid weight with creamy smooth mouth feel and a balanced and beautiful, lingering finish of spice-laden black plum, briary berry and excellent moderating acidity. What’s not to like? Pour with grilled burgers, steak or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)


Familia Mayol Cuatro Primos 2008
Mendoza $22.95 (55434) 15.0% alcohol
Inky purple, this blend of Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda from three different sites offers heady aromas of dark berries, dried fruits, spice, smoky toast and licorice. Dry, rich, mouthcoating and warm, the opulent fruit washes across the palate, garnished with notes of dark toast, chocolate and exotic spice. Ripe tannins and soft acidity gently frame the fruit, while the warmth persists through the full-flavoured finish. Serve it with barbequed rare red meats. (Susan Desjardins)


Urraca Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 

Agrelo, Mendoza $19.95 (271080) 14.8% alcohol 

Striking aromas of charry wood smoke, gamy meat and dark berry fruit provide the opening for a rich, succulent tidal wave of balanced, complex, dark chocolate, juicy black cherry and spice-laden, black currant flavour. It’s full bodied and fully textured, underpinned by ripe, supple tannin and sporting a smooth and mellow, fruit-filled, long finish moderated by lip-smacking acidity. With each sip better than the last, this is special, pick up a couple. (Vic Harradine)


Luigi Bosca Pinot Noir 2010
Mendoza $17.95 (143420) 12.6% alcohol
With just six months in barrel, this is a very attractive mid-weight Pinot Noir showcasing vibrant red fruits, dried herbs, a hint of cedar and an elusive floral note. Dry and quite juicy in texture, the delicate tannins and lively acidity complement lovely red fruits—cranberry, raspberry and cherry. Touches of spice, toast and earth add complexity through a lengthy dry finish. A versatile wine offering great value, pair it with lighter meat dishes, grilled vegetables or salmon. (Susan Desjardins)


Alta Vista ‘Premium’ Torrontés 2012
Argentina $14.95 (037127) 14.0% alcohol
Opening with subdued aromas of spice, floral notes and orchard fruit, this streaks over the palate with binned apple, pit fruit and a focused racy, line of tangy citrus. There’s good weight and texture with many options for pairing food—freshly shucked oysters, pan-seared fish, grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)


Crios Torrontes 2012
Mendoza $13.95 (1834) 14.0% alcohol
Dominantly floral on the nose, this classic white wine of Argentina also offers notes of pear, tangerine and lime. Dry yet quite fruity with lively acidity providing balance, there’s a pleasant tang on the palate and notes of pear, lime and mango through the crisp, tasty finish. Serve this wine with light appetizers, salads, or simply prepared white fish. (Susan Desjardins)


Alamos Chardonnay 2012
Mendoza $13.95 (801571) 13.5% alcohol
Sweet vanilla and peach/nectarine aromas herald a full-bodied, creamy smooth, fully textured river of Granny Smith apple, ripe pear and spice interlaced with toasty bits and balancing citrus acidity. It finishes in a blaze of nicely balanced fruit and acidity. Pour on its own as an aperitif or with roast veal or chicken. (Vic Harradine)

 

The Main Release

Ontario: White Wine

13th Street ‘White Palette’ 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (207340) 12.5% alcohol
A blend of several aromatic grape varieties, the aromas of Gewürztraminer and Riesling shine through on the nose with notes of spicy tropical fruit, citrus and white flowers. Dry, medium bodied, the wine is fleshy yet fresh, fruity and spicy with a nice slightly pithy note on the vibrant, clean finish. Sip on the patio, or serve with salads or seafood. (Susan Desjardins)


Fielding Estate Gewürztraminer 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (146753) 12.5% alcohol 

Alluring aromas of rosewater, exotic spice and floral notes waft freely from this full-blown, flavourful gem. Off-dry, mid-full weight and generously textured, there’s a balanced wash of succulent white peach, blood orange and spice mingling with lemon curd on the palate persisting through the mouth-watering finish. There’s sweet and tang on the aftertaste; pair with spicy Asian cuisine like pad Thai. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Malivoire Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Niagara Escarpment $24.95 (996777) 13.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent garnet, this is a lovely, fragrant wine that combines floral notes with berries, cherries and spicy toast. Dry, mid weight, it showcases outstanding balance, a silky texture and lovely ripe spiced fruit with touches of white pepper creating warmth on the clean, tangy finish. Engaging and lush, it has the heft to pair with red meats, or savour it with an aged cheddar. (Susan Desjardins)

The Foreign Affair ‘The Conspiracy’ 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (149237) 13.1% alcohol
This is alluring and vibrant on the nose with piquant spice, dried berry fruit and cedar. The palate’s bathed with a glorious wash of sweet, ripe mulberry and juicy black cherry mingling with bittersweet chocolate and espresso roast. It’s mid-full weight and nicely textured with a balanced, involved aftertaste that’s fruit filled with notions of black licorice and absolutely gorgeous. (Vic Harradine)

 

Ontario: Rosé Wine

Château des Charmes Rosé ‘Cuvée d’Andrée’ 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 (333260) 12.5% alcohol
Vic and I were both impressed with the depth and character of this Pinot Noir Rosé—suggested to reflect the personality of matriarch Madame Andrée Bosc. An electric, deep-rose hue, it’s wonderfully fragrant with notes of apple blossom, red berry and cherry. Dry, vibrant and mid weight, notes of dried herbs and white pepper add complexity to the luscious red fruit—strawberry, red currant and raspberry. Tangy acidity offers a nice balance to a well-crafted wine that finishes crisp and fruity. A versatile choice that has the heft to pair with a range of foods from strawberry balsamic spinach salad to grilled meats—stock up and enjoy. (Susan Desjardins)


Pondview Cabernet Franc Rosé 2011
VQA Four Mile Creek $14.95 (241802) 13.5% alcohol
Lou Puglisi has done it again, creating a salmon-hued beauty that offers amazing complexity—sweet cherry/berry aromas, honey and toasted coconut—as well as outstanding value. Just off-dry and medium bodied, this is a rosé with presence and a fine tension between crisp acidity and tangy, juicy red fruit. There’s a light touch of spritz on the palate, warmth and intense flavour through the extended finish. Savour it well chilled on the screened porch this summer. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2010
Napa Valley $54.95 (346304) 14.4% alcohol
Toasty oak, incense and tropical fruit aromas fill the air introducing a gusher of green apple, caramel, racy lemon-lime and oaky tones. It’s medium-full bodied with a complex structure, oodles of texture and a lengthy finish. It’s also a bit young and still knitting together. It will certainly reward patience; pop corks 2014 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)


Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Chardonnay 2011 

California $19.95 (369686) 13.5% alcohol 

Honeyed, tropical fruit, vanilla and mixed spice box aromas herald a gorgeous, tangy wash of apple, tangy citrus and tropical fruit wreathed in lemongrass and spice washing over the palate, infusing the long aftertaste. It’s good weight and good value with generous texture and a lingering, crisp, refreshing finish. Pour with roast chicken or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Ironstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
California $17.95 (537597) 13.5% alcohol
Inky purple, this is an appealing, plush wine offering fragrant ripe dark fruit mingling with a whiff of spiced cedar. Dry, full bodied and balanced, the ripe tannins and fresh acidity frame generous lashings of dark berry fruit, while notes of sweet spice and toast persist on the fruity finish. A go-to wine for barbequed red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

Santa Carolina ‘Barrica Selection’ Petit Verdot 2011
Rapel Valley $14.95 (007484) 14.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; it’s ripe, delicious and chockfull of flavour. There’s aromas of espresso roast, charred toasty notes and ripe, dark fruit on the nose. It dishes up a fruit-filled wash of ripe, luscious flavour of sweet mulberry, briary berry and bittersweet chocolate that rolls over the palate in waves infusing the lingering, tangy aftertaste. This is full bodied, textured and delectable. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2011

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $19.95 (590414) 13.5% alcohol

Toast, earthiness and cedar interweave with red and black currant heralding a bright, ruby-red, flavourful river of sour cherry, blueberry and spice-infused black plum. This is mid weight, nicely textured with a wisp of tannin underpinning the lengthy, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Very versatile—pour with roast chicken, smoked turkey, veal dishes or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)


Sileni ‘The Triangle’ Merlot 2010
Hawkes Bay $16.95 (586081) 14.0% alcohol
Aged in French and American oak, this is an impressive, value-laden wine serving up complex aromas and flavours. On the nose, dark and dried fruit, vanilla, dried lavender, sandalwood and cocoa. Displaying a firm yet subtle structure, it grabs your attention with a tangy peppery note followed by a rush of dark plummy fruit, notes of licorice and earth. Tasty, well crafted, and well worth cellaring, you’ll want to pick up a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Louis Hauller Gewürztraminer 2011
AOC Alsace $19.95 (141754) 12.5% alcohol
Here’s a rich, beautifully balanced wine showcasing enticing aromas of spice, tropical and honeyed stone fruit. Full and rich in texture, flavours of honeydew melon, luscious pear, apricot and lychee mingle with exotic spice. Serve it well chilled on its own, or with lightly spiced dishes. (Susan Desjardins)


Jean-Max Roger ‘Cuvée G.C.’ Sancerre 2011
AOC Sancerre $24.95 (189126) 12.5% alcohol
Prohibited from naming the specific vineyard of origin, like the noted ‘Grand Chemarin’, J-M Roger, a brilliant local producer, named this beauty, ‘Cuvée G.C.’. Mineral, citrus and herbaceous aromas on the nose mingle with hints of pit fruit. This dishes up an effusive, spirited wash of bracing lemon zest and key lime on the palate, broadening out on the crisp, refreshing aftertaste with glimmers of yellow plum and green apple. Sancerre at it’s dry, lip-smacking best. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château Coucy 2009
AOC Montagne Saint-Émilion $21.95 (321406) 14.5% alcohol
The lifted nose—dark berry fruit and licorice—presages a luscious, powerful tsunami wave of rich and balanced briary berry fruit, spice and kirsch liqueur interwoven with mocha and toasty bits. Mid-full bodied with good mouth feel, the finish lingers with black cherry and a solid lick of tannin. Aerate/decant three hours or open 2015, pouring with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Château des Moines 2010
AOC Lalande de Pomerol $21.95 (206789) 14.0% alcohol
Opaque in the glass, wood smoke, toasted oak and ripe, red and black, berry fruit aromas rip from this rich and robust beauty. It’s full of fruit and fully textured sporting a complex wash of black currant, spice and bramble berry jam bolstered by toasty oak and perceptible tannin. The finish is tangy, fruity and full of promise. Open now with a three-hour aeration/decant, better still, pop corks 2015-2019. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine de la Noblaie ‘Les Chiens-Chiens’ Chinon 2009
AOC Chinon $17.95 (076646) 13.0% alcohol
This ripe and luscious Cabernet Franc, known as ‘Beurton’ in Chinon, opens with floral notes, toasty bits and wild berry fruit aromas. A profusion of flavour bathes the palate with cassis, strawberry and black berry to the fore. It’s nicely textured with substantial body and a surprising tannic underpinning. It finishes fruity, tangy with notions of graphite and might better be left in the bottle for a couple of years. (Vic Harradine)


Les Vignes ‘Bila-Haut’ Côtes du Roussillon-Villages 2011
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $14.95 (168716) 14.5% alcohol
This blend of Grenache and Syrah from Chapoutier is a remarkable value and consistently good from vintage to vintage. Deep ruby, fruit forward, with a kiss of spice and vanilla, it’s dry, round and full bodied. Very approachable, loaded with luscious dark fruit, notes of licorice, pepper and spice add interest and allure. There’s the structure to balance the fruit and a big lip-smacking finish that says ‘bring on the barbequed meat’. Load up your shopping cart! (Susan Desjardins)


Les Halos de Jupiter Côtes du Rhône 2010
AOC Côtes du Rhône $17.95 (276956) 15.0% alcohol
Composed of Grenache with a touch of Syrah, this deep ruby wine is fragrant with red and black fruits, vanilla, spice and earthy garrigue. Dry, full bodied, the perceptible tannins and clean acidity balance powerful palate-coating berry fruit. Well balanced, it powers through the finish, tasty and flavourful. This is another great value that suggests the purchase of multiple bottles. (Susan Desjardins)


Mas des Bressades ‘Cuvée Excellence’ 2010
AOC Costières de Nîmes $19.95 (708750) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of earthy notes, kitchen spice and gamy notes mingle with leather and mixed field berry on the nose. It’s lively and fruit forward with layers of berry fruit, spice and tangy red currant underpinned with a supple tannin structure and wreathed in good moderating acidity. Medium weight and nicely textured, the aftertaste lingers, lively and tangy. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Paitin ‘Sori Paitin’ Barbaresco 2008
DOCG Barbaresco $32.95 (106591) 14.0% alcohol
Gorgeous aromas of lilacs, spiced dark berry fruit and truffles introduce an effusive array of flavour—dark juicy cherry, kirsch liqueur and bramble berry interwoven with kitchen spice and mocha. It showcases good weight and texture, deft balance and a lingering finish. There’s lush fruit, racy acidity and a gentle wisp of tannin on the aftertaste leaving you wanting more with each sip better than the previous. Pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Poggiotondo Brunello di Montalcino 2006
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $34.95 (276576) 14.0% alcohol
Structured, compact with a sense of elegance, there’s good value and a great red wine here. Sandalwood, exotic incense and red cherry/berry aromas precede a delectable river of red and black currant and sweet, ripe mulberry mingling with tarry bits and black licorice that coat the palate. It’s full weight and fully textured with bittersweet chocolate and earthy notes infusing the fruit-filled, tangy aftertaste. Lovely now, better 2018-2023. (Vic Harradine)


Rocca delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $15.95 (111641) 13.5% alcohol
The price-value combination is most definitely in your favour with this lovely Sangiovese blend that offers aromas and flavours of mixed berries, spice, white pepper and red licorice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s delicately structured yet firm, lively and appealingly fruity through a long round finish. Enjoy with tomato-based pasta with bocconcini and grilled vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)


Villa Mora ‘Montefalco Rosso’ 2006
DOC Umbria $15.95 (331785) 15.5% alcohol
Rich, dark, purple-black in the glass, this delivers in spades with a full-blown gusher of dark chocolate, black licorice and lip-smacking black raspberry and spiced black plum on the palate. Medium bodied with good mouth feel, the lengthy aftertaste showcases ripe blueberry and dark Bing cherry mingling with herbs and spice. Pour now with spicy back ribs slathered in spicy barbeque sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Due Torri Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2009
DOC Valpolicella Classico $38.95 (724740) 15.0% alcohol
Subtle and subdued on the nose—mocha, cocoa and floral notes—it jumps to life on the palate with lively flavour—rich, luscious briary black fruit, bittersweet chocolate and black juicy cherries. There’s decent weight and texture along with a lovely, balanced finish that brims with fruit and tangy acidity and a fashionable bitter bite on the aftertaste. It’s good to go now and pours well alongside beef steak, hearty stew or aged, hard cheese. (Vic Harradine)


Masi ‘Brolo Campofiorin Oro Appaxximento’ 2009
IGT Rosso del Veronese $24.95 (976092) 14.0% alcohol
One of a handful of wine producers in the world that guarantee well made wine when their name’s on the bottle. This smooth and complex blend—Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara—dishes up an array of aromas and flavours. It delievers briary berry, bittersweet chocolate and sweet, black, cherry among them. It’s mid-weight with good texture and a lingering, luscious finish with dark coffee and a tell-tale bite on the aftertaste. Pour with steak tartare. (Vic Harradine)


Tedeschi ‘Capitel Nicalo’ Appassimento Valpolicella Superiore 2011
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $15.95 (984997) 14.0% alcohol
A fine garnet hue, this mid-full weight wine offers complex aromas—dried cranberries and currants, plum and blackberry—as well as an elusive tangy note. Dry, displaying a fine-boned structured, it’s quite lush and tasty, rich plummy fruit mingling with warm spicy, toasty notes on the palate. That tangy, slightly bitter note replays on the finish, suggesting this would offer a nice complement to red meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

Casado Morales ‘Selección Privada’ 2005
DOCa Rioja Alvesa $28.95 (323857) 13.8% alcohol
Aromas of toast, smoke and earthy notes on the subtle nose provide segue for dried, black currant, blueberry and black raspberry fruit interlaced with kitchen spice and roasted herbs on the palate. It’s balanced, smooth as silk and mid weight with a lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste of red currant and red cherry tang. Good to pour now with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)


Gancedo Mencia 2007
DO Bierzo $24.95 (332874) 14.0% alcohol
Inky purple, almost opaque, the brooding liquid gives off a fabulous bouquet of leather, floral notes, charred toast and black cherry/berry fruit. It’s rich and concentrated with dried currant, black Bing cherry and spice garnished with plenty of charm and complexity. Mid weight and nicely textured, it reaches out with a fruit-forward aftertaste garnished with herbs and spice, underpinned by supple, fine-grained tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)


Lealtanza Crianza 2009
DOCa Rioja $16.95 (114835) 13.5% alcohol
Aged 12 months in oak, this deep ruby Tempranillo has in intriguing floral note, while offering sweet fruity, spicy, toasty aromas. Dry, medium-full bodied, the cherry/berry flavours combine with warm spice, vanilla and a touch of leather to offer depth and interest on the palate. Nicely balanced and well structured, it finishes warm and peppery. Enjoy with tapas or with grilled eggplant and Manchego cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: June 22, 2013

Martin Codax ‘Burgáns’ Albariño 2011
DO Rias Baixas, Spain $17.95 (945063) 12.5% alcohol
‘Burgans’ is the name of the hill where the winery, Martin Códax, is situated. This opens with alluring aromas of floral notes tropical fruit and notions of ripe yellow peach. Off-dry, balanced and full of ripe fruit, it dishes up a textured river of peach and tropical fruit on the palate that finishes with a lovely yin and yang, sweet and tang aftertaste. Good to go now as an aperitif or pour with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: July 6, 2013

Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ 2010 

VQA St. David’s Bench $14.95 (582353) 13.0% alcohol 

This is complex, structured, simply delicious and was propagated from a clone discovered in their vineyard, it’s Canada’s first vinifera vine. Aromas of blueberry, cherry and spice mingle with wisps of pipe tobacco on the alluring nose. Medium-full bodied and generously textured, waves of sour cherry and ripe black currant interlace with roasted herbs and black pepper. The finish lingers with a solid core of ripe fruit, fine-grained tannin, good moderating acidity and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)


Martin Códax Albariño 2011
DO Rias Baixas, Spain $17.95 (984906) 12.5% alcohol
Tucked away in NE Spain, off the tourist track; once you taste this you’ll want to visit. Light yellow with hints of green, this streaks across the palate with nerve, verve and sense of purpose. Aromas and flavours are sleek and focused. The nose offers citrus, green apple and minerality and these follow through on the palate and crisp, clean, refreshing aftertaste. A mouth-watering treat that stands well on its own or poured with freshly shucked oysters or tuna sashimi. (Vic Harradine)


Rutherglen Estates ‘Estate Grown’ Petit Sirah 2008

Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia $21.95 (179127) 14.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of mocha, roasted herbs and dark berry fruit provide segue to a mid-full weight, beautifully textured river of bramble berry and sweet, ripe mulberry interlaced with notions of black pepper and spice-infused dark plum. It’s well balanced with good moderating acidity and a mouth-watering finish that’s garnished with a supple tannin underpinning and plenty of charm. Good to go now with your favourite grilled meat. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: July 20, 2013

Château des Charmes Chardonnay Musqué 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (322016) 13.5% alcohol
Most of the estate vines used in this award-winner are 15-20 years old, yielding an attractive golden hue and aromas reminiscent of Viognier—pineapple, apricot, spice and white flowers. Dry, smooth and satiny in texture, it has great body and depth of flavour. The spice replays, the acidity creates a lively frame and ripe, rich tropical and stone fruit flavours coat the palate. The spice and a charming note of pithiness linger on the finish. Beautifully crafted, tasty and refreshing, you’ll enjoy this wine with seafood or salad with grilled chicken. (Susan Desjardins)


Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Shiraz 2010
McLaren Vale, Australia $18.95 (327387) 14.0% alcohol
This is silky smooth, well balanced and fruit forward—it offers good value. Black pepper, dark plum and ripe, dark berry fruit blossom from this mid-weight, harmonious red. Sweet, ripe mulberry and bright red cherry interlace with spice on the palate seamlessly forming a lengthy, balanced and beautiful aftertaste that’s charming, mouth-watering and delicious. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: November 2013

Featherstone ‘Canadian Oak’ Chardonnay 2011 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $21.95 (149302) 13.0% alcohol
Kitchen spice, sweet vanilla and wisps of nuttiness pave the way for a beautifully textured, almost creamy, river of nutmeg, ginger, ripe, sweet pear and racy citrus. It’s medium bodied and balanced on a pin with a lengthy, delightful aftertaste of vanilla and wisps of spiced oak barrels hewn from nearby trees. Excellent now, even better when knit together 12 months down the road. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: December, 2013

Featherstone ‘Joy – Premium Cuvée’ Sparkling Wine 2009 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 (310334) 12.5% alcohol
You’ll love the bottle and closure and it only gets better when you taste it. Toasty notes, sweet, ripe pit fruit and citrus aromas presage frothy bubbles and a robust wash of key lime pie, minerality and ripe Meyer lemon. It’s racy, clean and crisp on entry then mingles with riper notes of sweet, grilled pineapple and white peach. This pleasurable transition leads to a balanced and beautiful, refreshing finish. There’s excellent value in this traditional-method, vintage-dated, delectable, sparkling wine. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Cattail Creek ‘catastrophe’ 2012
VQA Four Mile Creek $13.95 (260349) 12.5% alcohol
Proceeds from this wine support Lincoln County Humane Society’s program to spay and neuter feral cats. Seductive aromas of exotic spice, lychee and floral notes herald an explosion of flavour that rolls in endless waves across the palate with sweet tropical fruit, white peach and lemon pie filling to the fore. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel, fleshy and brimming with flavour and charm. A lovely aperitif wine. (Vic Harradine)


Cattail Creek ‘Creek Series’ Riesling 2012
VQA Four Mile Creek $14.95 (241547) 11.5% alcohol
This is balanced, generously textured and mouth-wateringly delicious. Planting Riesling vines 37 years ago, these folks and this wine deserve your attention. Aromas of honeysuckle and mineral herald a delightful river of yellow plum, grilled pineapple and racy lemon zest. The sweet and tang on the finish set this up as a gorgeous wine for sipping or pouring with pad Thai or tandoori chicken. (Vic Harradine)


The Dreaming Tree ‘Crush - Red Wine’ 2010
North Coast, California $16.95 (310391) 13.5% alcohol
There’s poetry on the cork, doodles on the label and two pretty famous guys behind this, i.e Dave of the Dave Matthews Band. The other, noted winemaker Steve Reeder, earns kudos. The rich, sexy aromas of spice-laden black cherry and bramble berry pie herald a mid-full weight, generously textured wash of pure, hedonistic joy—black plum compote, kirsch liqueur and notions of herb-brushed, juicy black cherry swirl over the palate infusing the beautifully balanced, lengthy finish. How good is that? (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Cattail Creek ‘catastrophe’ 2012
VQA Four Mile Creek $13.95 (260349) 12.5% alcohol
Proceeds from this wine support Lincoln County Humane Society’s program to spay and neuter feral cats. Seductive aromas of exotic spice, lychee and floral notes herald an explosion of flavour that rolls in endless waves across the palate with sweet tropical fruit, white peach and lemon pie filling to the fore. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel, fleshy and brimming with flavour and charm. A lovely aperitif wine. Order for daily home or office delivery, by the case, from Cattail Creek. (Vic Harradine)


Château des Charmes Chardonnay Musqué 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (322016) 13.5% alcohol
Most of the estate vines used in this award-winner are 15-20 years old, yielding an attractive golden hue and aromas reminiscent of Viognier—pineapple, apricot, spice and white flowers. Dry, smooth and satiny in texture, it has great body and depth of flavour. The spice replays, the acidity creates a lively frame and ripe, rich tropical and stone fruit flavours coat the palate. The spice and a charming note of pithiness linger on the finish. Beautifully crafted, tasty and refreshing, you’ll enjoy this wine with seafood or salad with grilled chicken. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Château des Charmes. (Susan Desjardins)


Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ 2010 

VQA St. David’s Bench $14.95 (582353) 13.0% alcohol 

This is complex, structured, simply delicious and was propagated from a clone discovered in their vineyard, it’s Canada’s first vinifera vine. Aromas of blueberry, cherry and spice mingle with wisps of pipe tobacco on the alluring nose. Medium-full bodied and generously textured, waves of sour cherry and ripe black currant interlace with roasted herbs and black pepper. The finish lingers with a solid core of ripe fruit, fine-grained tannin, good moderating acidity and oodles of charm. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Château des Charmes. (Vic Harradine)


Featherstone ‘Canadian Oak’ Chardonnay 2011 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $21.95 (149302) 13.0% alcohol
Kitchen spice, sweet vanilla and wisps of nuttiness pave the way for a beautifully textured, almost creamy, river of nutmeg, ginger, ripe, sweet pear and racy citrus. It’s medium bodied and balanced on a pin with a lengthy, delightful aftertaste of vanilla and wisps of spiced oak barrels hewn from nearby trees. Excellent now, even better when knit together 12 months down the road. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)


Featherstone ‘Joy – Premium Cuvée’ Sparkling Wine 2009 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 (310334) 12.5% alcohol
You’ll love the bottle and closure and it only gets better when you taste it. Toasty notes, sweet, ripe pit fruit and citrus aromas presage frothy bubbles and a robust wash of key lime pie, minerality and ripe Meyer lemon. It’s racy, clean and crisp on entry then mingles with riper notes of sweet, grilled pineapple and white peach. This pleasurable transition leads to a balanced and beautiful, refreshing finish. There’s excellent value in this traditional-method, vintage-dated, delectable, sparkling wine. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: May 25, 2013

As we advised, the May 25th Vintages Release tasting in Ottawa was delayed and we now have tasted and reviewed the wines below.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Five Stars – one wine rang the 5-star bell; a Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer that’s sweet and great for spicy Asian cuisine or poached pear and fruit flans.
• Exceptional value wines – four wines meet the strict price/quality criteria, priced $14.95 – $29.95

You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting before then. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

Riesling Feature

Pfeffingen Riesling Kabinett ‘Trocken’ 2011
Pfalz $18.95 (324343) 12.0% alcohol
The pale yellow-green tone of this wine portends the vibrant aromas of citrus, crisp apple and just-ripened pear. There’s a whiff of mineral that replays on the palate, mingling with zesty acidity and refreshing lively flavours of lemon, lime and grapefruit. The finish is zippy clean and lingering. Enjoy with fresh pan-fried lake perch, or your choice of seafood. (Susan Desjardins)


Studert-Prüm ‘Graacher Himmelreich’ Riesling Kabinett 2011
Mosel $19.95 (160853) 9.5% alcohol
Here’s a fine example of an off-dry Riesling, displaying complex aromas of citrus fruits, green apple, honey, beeswax and mineral. Medium bodied, the lovely rich flavours of stone and orchard fruit linger on the palate, the mineral note underlying, an elusive hint of fresh ginger lingering on the lip-smacking, tasty finish. Great balance and finesse! (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Champagne

Drappier ‘Signature’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $46.95 (599860) 12.5% alcohol
This provides a dazzling prelude with ripe nectarine and yellow plum on entry—possibly a splash of Pinot Blanc here—finishing crisp, clean and refreshing. Aromas of freshly baked brioche, toast and nutty notes pave the way for a lively mousse and a profusion of fine-bead bubbles. It bathes the palate with juicy nectarine, plum and, eventually, racy lemon curd interwoven with streaks of crisp green apple. The aftertaste layers on excellent, moderating acidity for a lip-smacking finish. Great value here. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Reif Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
VQA Niagara River $24.95 (336149) 13.5% alcohol
Always good-value and well-made wine from this classy producer. Earthy notes, red berry fruit and spice aromas herald a mid-weight river of mouth-watering flavour with sour cherry, red currant and black plum to the fore. It’s nicely textured with deftly integrated oak and oodles of charm. It finishes balanced, smooth and mellow with complexity and a lick of sweet tannin. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley, BC: Red Wine

Cassini Cellars Merlot 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley $21.95 (324319) 13.2% alcohol
Located in the south Okanagan, Cassini Cellars is developing quite a following, and deservedly so, as this well-balanced, approachable Merlot demonstrates. Deep ruby, the fruity field berry aromas burst from the glass, carrying with them notes of dried herbs, spice and a note of sweet cedar. Dry, medium-full bodied and plush, the wine has a smooth almost creamy texture matched to a subtle yet well-defined structure. Clean acidity balances tasty cherry and raspberry fruit, notes of vanilla custard and a hint of spice. It finishes long and tangy. Enjoy it now or over the new few years, with roast pork or grilled beef tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Carignane 2011
Contra Costa County $20.95 (032177) 15.5% alcohol
Aromas of black berry fruit—currant and raspberry—interlace with prunes and earthy, gamy notes on the lifted nose. Palate-coating, sweet and jammy dark fruit—15.5% alcohol—blanket the palate along with espresso roast and wisps a smoky campfire. It’s medium-full bodied and generously textured providing a hedonistic experience for lovers of big, fruit-filled reds. Give it a go now with grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Raymond ‘R Collection Field Blend Lot No. 7’ 2010
California $19.95 (265959) 13.8% alcohol
An engaging, easy-going wine, this blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel) entices with alluring aromas of black berry, cherry, smoke, vanilla and balsamic. Dry, full bodied, it’s loaded with rich flavourful red and black fruit, spice, dark chocolate and a replay of aged balsamic. Framed by soft tannins and acidity, it’s a party wine that will pair with barbequed meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

Chakana ‘Estate Selection’ Malbec 2011 

Mendoza $19.95 (219261) 14.5% alcohol 

There’s very good value here. Rich, dark aromas of spice-infused black currant, charred toast—12 months in French oak—and black licorice blast from the glass. From hand-harvested fruit, a river of dark, bittersweet chocolate and espresso roast interweave with cassis and juicy, black cherry on the palate and lingering, balanced finish. It showcases complexity on the aftertaste with notions of tobacco and excellent moderating acidity underpinned by supple tannin. (Vic Harradine) 


Vicentin Blend de Malbecs 2010 

Mendoza $17.95 (299735) 14.9% alcohol 

Produced from the fruit of 5, specifically selected vineyards, this inky black wine is luscious and approachable. Hints of menthol, floral notes, heaps of black fruit and sweet oak aromas drift from the glass. Dry, full bodied, it’s loaded with spiced black fruit, sweet vanilla and toasty oak. Round and softly structured, it’s warm and toasty on the finish. Enjoy it now with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins) 

Australia: White Wine

Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Pinot Grigio 2010 

Adelaide Hills, South Australia $16.95 (159806) 12.5% alcohol 

Granny Smith apple and ripe pear on the nose, it streaks over the palate with a crisp, refreshing stream of green apple, white peach and oodles of racy, tangy lemon. Medium bodied and full of nerve and verve, it finished in a blaze of citrus—pineapple, white grapefruit and spiced, lemony tang. Pour with pan-seared white fish under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine) 

Australia: Red Wine

Pirramimma Shiraz 2010
McLaren Vale, South Australia $26.95 (987784) 14.5% alcohol
Hardly a false step from this premium winery and this won’t disappoint; it’s balanced and beautiful brimming with alluring aromas and delicious flavour. A great vintage producing superior fruit and 2 years in American oak coalesce in this gem. Aromas of freshly cracked black pepper and dark berry fruit herald a balanced wash of ripe mulberry, dark cherry, kitchen spice and notions of bittersweet chocolate. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lingering, dry, delectable aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 

Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (744235) 14.0% alcohol 

Brimming with heady aromas of dark berry fruit, black licorice and mint, this rolls over the palate with endless waves of juicy, mint-laced Bing cherry and succulent black currant preserve. Wakefield’s—under the family name Taylors—is one of 12 iconic, family-owned ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’ producing wine with sense of place; in this instance, it’s Clare Valley. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and a lingering, well-structured aftertaste that’s underpinned by ripe supple tannin, moderating acidity and more than its fair share of charm. Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine) 

New Zealand: White Wine

Saint Clair ‘Pioneer Block 10’ Chardonnay 2010
Marlborough, South Island $25.95 (317651) 14.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, citrus notes and green apple on the nose, it showers the palate with a gorgeous array of flavour—grilled pineapple, toasty bits, kitchen spice and honey along with ripe nectarine and juicy pear. It’s full bodied and fully textured and the oak’s fully integrated. This finishes with racy lemon zest and hints of spice-infused tropical fruit. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour. (Vic Harradine)


Sileni Cellar ‘Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough $17.95 (662882) 12.5% alcohol
What an outstanding wine - offering crisp, fresh aromas of passion fruit, gooseberry and spring herbs. Dry, medium bodied, it’s juicy yet round, crisp and tangy with the herbal and citrus notes drenching the palate and lingering through the extended tangy finish. Enjoy it this summer with a grilled chicken and goat cheese salad. (Susan Desjardins)

Austria: White Wine

Salomon ‘Groovy’ Grüner Veltliner 2012
Austria $13.95 (669606) 12.5% alcohol
This is crisp and clean, full of nerve of verve with aromas of minerality, floral tones and citrus. Key lime pie, sweet lemon drop and racy white grapefruit streak across the palate interwoven with ripe pear and crisp green apple. This is mid weight with good texture and a mouth-watering aftertaste. Pretty good value here; pour with grilled, breaded calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht ‘Calcaire’ Gewürztraminer 2009
AOC Alsace $29.95 (320481) 13.5% alcohol
It’s golden yellow and as highly perfumed as a garden of roses. This majestic, luscious, sweet Gewürztraminer will dazzle your palate and win your heart—it was tough to spit. Exotic incense, rosewater and spice fill the room heralding a spectacular wash of creamy-textured, über-smooth ripe, sweet peach, marzipan and candied lemon peel. This has good weight and a lingering aftertaste reminiscent of blood orange and crème brûlée. Pick up three, pop one cork now, one 2017, another 2021. Pour with fruit flan, tandoori chicken or crème brûlée. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Bastide ‘Miraflors’ Vieilles Vignes Syrah/Grenache 2011
IGP Côtes Catalanes $18.95 (320499) 15.0% alcohol
Deep purple, this is a big wine with very rich aromas of spiced rose, blackberry, black raspberry and aged compost. Dry, full bodied it balances ripe tannins, subtle acidity and a gusher of dark ripe fruit. Notes of vanilla and toast add complexity, while peppery warmth lingers on the dry finish. Pick up a few bottles to enjoy now with barbequed meats, or this fall with braised meats or stews. (Susan Desjardins)


Le Gravillas ‘Plan de Dieu’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2010
AP Côtes du Rhône-Villages $14.95 (264648) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s an outstanding Rhône blend that offers brooding notes of cured meat, dark fruits, mocha and dried herbs. Dry, full bodied and substantial, it displays excellent balance, perceptible tannins and fresh acidity matched to black berry and cherry flavours, layered on earthy woodsy notes, spice and a hint of licorice. Dry and tasty on the finish now, and cellar worthy as well. It’s going fast, so get your case now! (Susan Desjardins)


Château Rozier Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2012 

AOC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, France $28.95 (25439) 14.0% alcohol 

Toasty oak, sweet vanilla and cassis aromas roll freely from this gorgeous, Merlot-predominant, red blend. Hand-picked fruit, 15 months in French oak barrels, +50-year-old vines, a terrific vintage and nine generations—since 1775—of family-owned winemaking coalesce in this dazzling red. It’s structured, balanced and brimming with charm and a river of ripe, mulberry, black currant and juicy black cherry garnished with still-resolving tannin bathing the palate, infusing the balanced aftertaste. Drink now, after a two-hour aeration/decant, and on to 2022. (Vic Harradine) 

Greece: White Wine

Sigals ‘Santorini’ Assyrtiko 2011
AP Santorini $21.95 (074781) 13.7% alcohol
If you’ve not tried Greek wine for a while, this’ll provide a pleasant, eye-opening experience. Effusive aromas, robust flavour and generous mouth feel mark this as special. Ripe orchard fruit, nutty notes and sexy honeysuckle notes waft easily from this mid-weight, complex gem. It’s structured, balanced and oozes charm. White peach, tangy pineapple and racy citrus blanket the palate infusing the mouth-watering, crisp, clean finish. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Mezzacorono ‘Trentino Riserva’ Pinot Grigio 2010
DOC Alto Adige Trentino $15.95 (032714) 13.3% alcohol
White flowers, exotic incense and sweet vanilla aromas provide segue for a balanced gusher racy lemon-lime interwoven with ripe pear and juicy, crisp apple. It’s medium bodied with good texture with lingering crisp and racy aftertaste. This is paired well with linguini and clams in white wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Paolo Conterno ‘Bricco’ Barbera d’Alba 2011
DOC Barbera d’Alba $18.95 (744714) 14.5% alcohol
This is a fine wine showcasing lovely red field berries along with aromas of sweet spice and smoke. Dry, medium bodied, there’s fine harmony of delicate tannins, lively acidity and tasty red fruits. Notes of spice and a hint of cedar linger on the lasting dry finish. Enjoy it with a pasta salad with grilled vegetables and tomatoes. (Susan Desjardins)


Lornano Chianti Classico 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $16.95 (211599) 14.0% alcohol
Garnet hued, this is a lovely fragrant Chianti with layers of aromas—vanilla, smoke, black berry, cherry and sweet spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s lively, supple and clean, with bright red cherry/berry fruit, notes of spice and wood smoke. Finishing tangy, dry and crisp, it’s beautifully balanced and an excellent value. (Susan Desjardins)


Ruffino Ducale ‘Oro’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2007 

DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $44.95 (353201) 13.5% alcohol 

Tobacco, tar and sandalwood aromas provide intro to a gorgeous wash of blueberry and cassis with dark, juicy cherry—it’s nicely balanced with good structure throughout. This is 80% Sangiovese with the balance a blend of Cab Sauv and Merlot. Medium bodied with a fleshy, smooth mouth feel, the aftertaste is a blaze of good acidity with black, juicy Bing cherry, herbs and spice underpinned by supple tannin. Aerate/decant two hours pouring with the ultimate Italian stew - osso bucco. (Vic Harradine) 


Santa Sofia ‘Arleo’ Rosso 2003
IGT Rosso del Veronese $25.95 (320846) 14.0% alcohol
An evolved wine for contemplation, aged in Slavonian oak, this blend of Corvina (principally) with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot entices with lovely subtle aromas of dried and stewed fruits, wood smoke, leather and sweet spice. It’s a beautifully integrated, aged red, displaying fine balance, melted tannins, soft acidity and delicate, dried fruit flavours layered on gentle notes of spice and cedar. Quite lovely, sip on its own to enjoy the fascinating evolution of flavours on the palate or serve with mushroom arrosto or fine, aged Italian cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan