Winecurrent

May 8, 2013 Newsletter

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

  • Exceptional value winesExceptional Value! just 5 wines meet the strict price/quality criteria; all in the Main Release, priced from $12.95 to $15.95
  • Finding Waldo – this Arneis, aka Barolo Bianco, has a DOCG rating and is only $19.95. This N. Italian grape can really perform. Pick up a few.
  • New in Ontario Wineries – Jackson-Triggs have six knockout wines reviewed and you’ll find them in this section following the Main Release.
  • Summer Rosés – with a half dozen from which to choose, it’s time to start buying, sipping and stocking up for summer and fall enjoyment.

This newsletter highlights reviews from the May11, 2013 Vintages Release with 65 wines tasted, spat and reviewed.


You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting before then. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, still, best to phone first. 

Vintages Release: May 11, 2013

Australia Feature

**** drink or cellar
Rolf Binder ‘Hales’ Shiraz 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (054239) 14.0% alcohol
Intense, complex and oozing with good structure, this opens with aromas of exotic spice, roasted herbs and wisps of dried currant. A river of teeth-staining dark, rich fruit coats the palate with dark, juicy cherry and ripe red currant interwoven with dark chocolate, fennel and wisps of espresso roast. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a lively, tangy aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Grant Burge ‘The Holy Trinity’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (236257) 14.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of Asian spice, leather and mixed field berry fruit herald a balanced, nicely textured wash of cassis, kirsch liqueur and sweet, briary berry. It’s medium-full bodied with depth and structure. The finish is fruit forward and lengthy wreathed in supple tannin. Pour alongside grilled and smoked back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Cooralook Shiraz 2010
Victoria $19.95 (262451) 14.5% alcohol
Black currant, truffles and oodles of dark coffee aromas on the nose, luscious and concentrated flavours abound with sweet, ripe mulberry, black plum compote and briary berry to the fore. This is full bodied with good texture sporting a lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste of balanced and beautiful flavour—a replay of the fruit on the palate burnished with good tang and acidity and fine-grained tannin for oomph and interest. A lovely Aussie Shiraz. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz 2010
Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria $35.95 (243592) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of cherry, cracked black pepper and mixed kitchen spice provide segue for a juicy, tangy stream of red currant and sour cherry mingling with mulberry and blueberry streaming over the palate. It’s mid-full weight with medium texture and a racy, lip-smacking finish underpinned by perceptible tannin. Pop corks after careful cellaring, 2015 to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Cabernet Sauvigon 2011
Margaret River, Western Australia $17.95 (323741) 14.0% alcohol
Rich aromas of dark berry fruit, spice-infused black plum and floral notes blossom forth from this mid-full weight, very good value Cab. It’s balanced and brimming with dense, fruit-laden flavour—dark, briary berry, black cherry and dried currant—interweaving with mocha and notions of roasted herbs. This is nicely structured with a lingering finish underpinned by supply tannin. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Brookland Valley ‘Verse 1’ Chardonnay 2011
Margaret River, Western Australia $17.95 (981126) 13.5% alcohol
Herbs and spice meld with citrus and mineral notes on the nose while flavours on the palate run from sweet, ripe pineapple and yellow plum to racy, tangy citrus acidity. It’s medium bodied with a long, juicy aftertaste of white grapefruit pith and oodles of acidity. Give this a go with pan-seared fish or seafood under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Allimant-Laugner Rosé Crémant d’Alsace
AOC Alsace $19.95 (319939) 12.5% alcohol
A light, pink hue in the glass, there are sexy aromas of rose petals, red berry fruit and exotic incense on the nose. Strawberry, watermelon and cranberry interweave on the palate and crisp, refreshing finish mingling with spice and delicate, persistent, small bubbles. It’s a fine welcoming wine or aperitif. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Domaine d’Orfeuilles ‘Brut’ Vouvray
AOC Vouvray $18.95 (319954) 12.5% alcohol
There’s good weight and texture coupled with flavour and charm galore—what’s not to like. There are heady aromas of minerality, yeasty bits and crisp, Granny Smith apple presaging a lovely wash of succulent white peach, orange zest and wisps of tropical fruit interwoven with good, moderating, citrus tang and persistent fine-bead bubbles throughout. A lovely wine to welcome guests or to pair with pan-seared calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now
Greenlane Estate ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (329409) 12.5% alcohol
Crisp and refreshing, full of nerve and verve, this jumps from the glass and races over the palate with crisp green apple, racy citrus and notions of ripe pear. It’s medium weight with decent mouth feel and a lengthy, lip-smacking racy aftertaste. Pour with lemon chicken or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Stoney Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (513705) 13.4% alcohol
Herbaceous and grassy with passion fruit aromas on the nose, might make one think this is from Marlborough. However, it showcases Niagara fruit—crisp, refreshing and full of zing. Passion fruit, lemon yoghurt and spoonfuls of laser-like, lemon acidity ride the palate infusing the long, lively finish. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and pairs particularly well with arugula salad lightly dressed with verjus and smothered in crumbled, grilled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Colchester Ridge ‘Crew’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $25.00 (328385) 14.9% alcohol
Heady aromas of dark, ripe berry fruit, cedar and dark, toasty notes open this dense, fruit-laden behemoth. Briary berry, black plum and black currant garnished with mocha and licorice coat the palate persisting through the lengthy aftertaste. It’s mid-full weight with good balance, substantial texture and a perceptible tannin underpinning. Pop corks 2016 - 2020 (Vic harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Baco Noir 2010 

VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699) 13.5% alcohol 

Rich, robust and rarin’ to go, this rips from the blocks with gorgeous aromas of rich, dark berry fruit, tar, dark chocolate and wisps of tomato leaf. Palate-coating flavours abound with racy pomegranate and ripe, briary berry interwoven with spice-infused black plum. It’s full bodied and fully textured with oodles of structure and tangy acidity. The lengthy aftertaste doesn’t let you down, more of the same… in spades. Baco doesn’t get much better than this—put a couple in the cart. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Muscedere Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2011
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $18.20 (334144) 12.7% alcohol
Red cherry, spice, toasty notes and field berry fruit on the nose, this is a lighter-styled, nicely balanced Cab Franc from LENS—a VQA sub-appellation showcasing more heat units than any other plus a long growing season that modifies heat spikes with southwesterly Lake Erie breezes. Lively, juicy fruit abounds with red cherry, red currant and spice-infused black plum to the fore. The finish is tangy, juicy and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Vinedressers Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
VQA Ontario $19.95 (530576) 13.0% alcohol
Wood smoke, tobacco leaf and gamy notes swirl from the glass of this medium-bodied, creamy smooth Cab. Pomegranate, cranberry and sour cherry flavours couple with good moderating acidity and a perceptible tannin underpinning on the palate and through the dry, lengthy aftertaste. Pour 2016-2020 alongside gourmet sausage, burgers or meat-lovers pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
13th Street ‘Pink Palette’ Rosé 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (275834) 12.5% alcohol
An early pick for the best 2012 Rosé tasted this spring, it’s well structured, lively and fresh, oozing charm and value packed—how good is that? Red berry fruit, spice and floral notes on the nose, it’s nicely balanced and fruit-forward on the palate with watermelon, pomegranate and ripe strawberry galore. It finishes in a crisp, refreshing blaze of sour cherry juxtaposed with sweet ripe berry fruit. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

*** drink or cellar
Deep Sea Chardonnay 2008
Santa Barbara County $34.95 (318378) 14.4% alcohol
Aromas of binned apple, racy lime and toasty notes herald a river of grippy flavour—bitter lemon, crisp green apple and orange peel on the palate morphing into white grapefruit pith on the aftertaste. Mid weight and mid length on the drying finish, pour with scallop ceviche or tuna sashimi. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Kunde Chardonnay 2011
Sonoma Valley $21.95 (745406) 13.8% alcohol
Tropical fruit, lemon-lime and Asian spice aromas presage rich, luscious waves of green apple, ripe pear and yellow plum interlaced with sweet vanilla and dark toasty bits. Medium bodied with creamy texture, it finishes long and refreshing with wisps of grapefruit pith and lemon citrus. This is a nicely balanced Chardonnay pouring well with roast chicken or lemon sole. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
B Side Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley 29.95 (317826) 13.7% alcohol
This B Side brought its A game—there’s balance, structure, complexity and charm. Alluring aromas of black berry fruit, gamy notes and aromatic bitters presage a mid-full weight, nicely textured, complex wave of black currant and dark, juicy cherry garnished with red licorice and roasted herbs. It’s deftly balanced with a solid underpinning of supple tannin further blessed with good moderating acidity on the dry, fruity, lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Fog Crest ‘Laguna West’ Pinot Noir 2010
Russian River Valley $46.95 (294835) 14.5% alcohol
Underbrush, briary berry and mixed spice aromas signal a textured river of red and black currant and toasty, tarry notes burnished with piquant spice on the palate. It’s medium bodied, nicely balanced and dishes up a lengthy, well balanced finish showcasing supple, fine-grained tannin, excellent, racy acidity and hints of sweet, ripe boysenberry. Pours and pairs well with smoked and grilled duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Groth Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Oakville, Napa Valley $74.95 (606517) 14.5% alcohol
Lifted and breath-taking aromas of wood smoke, exotic incense and black currant abound. It delivers a delectable stream of tannin-infused briary berry and red cherry wrapped in mixed spice and mocha. It’s mid weight with a generous mouth feel and a dry, mid-length aftertaste that’s complex and nicely balanced. Drink 2017-2025 reaping the reward of careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Lake County $19.95 (104240) 14.5% alcohol
This has pin-point balance, with delicious flavour, depth and structure. Dark fruit, earthy tones and mocha aromas provide introduction to a swirling wash of black currant, hints of mint, bittersweet chocolate and sweet vanilla. Rich and luscious throughout, the finish is fruity with good concentration and long lasting. Very good value and best served after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Irony Merlot 2010
Napa Valley $19.95 (183186) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s a real crowd-pleaser sporting oodles of flavour and a price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. Mocha, black plum and cedar on the nose, it bathes the palate with a luscious, well balanced wash of racy, black raspberry and dark, juicy cherry burnished with piquant spice and still-resolving tannin. It’s mid-full weight with a satiny smooth mouth feel, good balance and a delicious, mid-length aftertaste. Good to go after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Liberty School Zinfandel 2010
California $18.95 (041095) 13.5% alcohol
Savoury roasted herbs and dark cherry/berry aromas presage juicy, tangy flavours of red cherry, black plum compote and dried currant wreathed in good acidity and notions of dill weed. It’s medium weight with a lengthy, racy finish redolent of black berry pie. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Saintsbury ‘Stanly Ranch’ Pinot Noir 2009
Carneros, Napa Valley $49.95 (261594) 14.0% alcohol
Flirting with 5 stars, this delivers a New World style of Pinot with delicious up-front fruit that’s coupled with complexity, structure and touches of elegance. Aromas of earthy underbrush, licorice and cedar mingle harmoniously with exotic incense. Palate-coating, complex waves of dark berry and black Bing cherry cloaked with spice and herbs roll endlessly through the lingering aftertaste. This is all framed with sweet, fine-grained tannin and moderating acidity brimming with charm and finesse. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ Merlot 2008
Columbia Valley $15.95 (263418) 13.5% alcohol
You pass this by at your peril; this is a gorgeous red. Delicate, beautifully balanced, oozing grace and charm, this lighter-bodied Merlot delivers considerable depth and flavour—emphasizing once again, ‘lighter’ is not a fault. Nicely balanced and fruity—sweet, ripe mulberry and briary berry interwoven with spice and herbs—it delivers a lengthy fruit-laden finish with each sip better than the previous. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Catena Chardonnay 2011
Mendoza $19.95 (918805) 14.0% alcohol
Yellow plum, über ripe apple and floral notes on the nose, this dishes up a rich and mouth-filling volley of delectable racy citrus, ripe pineapple and honeydew melon garnished with floral notes. It’s mid-full weight with generous mouth feel and a long, balanced, refreshing finish. There are wisps of toast and notions of almonds on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

*** drink now
Forrest Estate ‘The Doctors’ Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (317842) 9.5% alcohol
A subdued nose of floral notes and sprigs of herbs open this medium-weight, South Island, Sauvignon Blanc. Sweet ripe flavours of white peach and mango wash over the palate, morphing into lemon and grapefruit pith on the tangy, mid-length finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Main Divide Riesling 2010
Waipara Valley, South Island $19.95 (309567) 12.0% alcohol
Heady aromas of lemon-lime, minerality/slate and notions of diesel open this off-dry beauty. Rich, luscious flavours of pit fruit and tropical fruit roll over the palate mingling with lemon and crisp, green apple. Mid weight and nicely textured, the sweet and tang on the lingering finish set this up for a match made in heaven poured with bone-in, baked ham. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

*** drink or cellar
Robertson Winery ‘Prospect Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
WO Robertson $17.95 (687814) 14.0% alcohol
Dusty, mineral tones mingle with floral notes and red berry fruit aromas. Red cherry and dried currant splash over the palate wreathed in herbs and mixed spice. It’s mid weight with lots of nerve and verve on the racy, medicinal finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2012
WO Coastal Region $12.95 (999821) 12.5% alcohol
Black plum compote on the nose, this lively Cab Sauv Rosé has plenty of oomph on the palate and tangy, fruit-filled finish. Palate-coating flavours of red currant, sour cherry and sweet, ripe mulberry abound. It finishes with a tangy, racy flourish of red cherry acidity and hints of briary berry. Good to go when well chilled and alongside a bowl of equally well-chilled, gazpacho. (Vic Harradine)

Austria: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Zantho St. Laurent 2010 

Qualitätswein, Burgenland, Austria $15.95 (315556) 13.0% alcohol 

The first thing you’ll like about this red is the re-usable glass enclosure—no corkscrew needed. The next things are the aromas and flavours. Spice-infused, black plum compote and dark berry fruit provide segue to a nicely paced and well-balanced river of dark cherry and plum interwoven with black currant flavours. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with a dry, fruity aftertaste. Great with grilled meat—burgers, steak or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Domaine du Chardonnay Chablis 2011
AOC Chablis $19.95 (183574) 12.5% alcohol
This is classic Chablis with aromas of mineral/slate, zippy citrus acidity and crisp Granny Smith apple. Streaking over the palate with zesty lemon-lime and laser-like lashings of white grapefruit, this finishes in a blaze of orchard fruit—green apple, Green Gage plum and lemongrass—mingling with mineral tones and blood orange. Pour with freshly shucked, briny oysters. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
William Fèvre Sauvignon Blanc Saint-Bris 2011
AOC Saint-Bris $17.95 (626523) 12.0% alcohol
Here’s a wonderful alternative to sharp, herbaceous Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc; it offers delicious flavour, good texture and great value; what’s not to like? Waves of bright Kiwi fruit and gooseberry roll over the palate accompanied by Meyer lemon and grilled pineapple. Its all nicely balanced showcasing good weight and a creamy smooth texture along with a balanced, crisp and refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Thomas & Fils ‘Cuvée Grand Chaille’ Sancerre 2011
AOC Sancerre $28.95 (320242) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of mineral, slate and flint mingle with sprigs of herbs on the nose of this mid-weight, nicely textured, crisp, refreshing Sauvignon Blanc. Ripe fruit—apple, pear and honeydew melon—strive for attention alongside citrus acidity on the palate. Ripe lemon and white grapefruit provide a balanced and beautiful blend of tastes and flavours on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Puech-Haut ‘Prestige – Saint-Drézéry’ 2010 

AOP Coteaux-du-Languedoc, France $24.95 (237289) 14.5% alcohol 

Dark berry fruit—bramble and currant—mingle with spice, cola, black licorice and espresso roast on the expressive nose. It’s mid-full weight with good texture and palate-coating flavours—cassis, dark juicy cherry and black plum—washing in complex, structured waves. The balanced and beautiful aftertaste embroiders moderating acidity and fine-grained tannin on the delectable, lip-smacking fruit-forward flavour. Don’t hesitate to pick up a few—drinking well now to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chateau Tour Saint-André 2010
AOC Lalande de Pomerol $26.95 (138677) 14.0% alcohol
A 60/40 - Merlot/Cab Franc blend and from a fabulous vintage, it’s rich and alluring on the nose with dark field berry fruit, a notion of iodine and rosewood to the fore. Structured, balanced and complex, flavours of luscious, ripe briary berry, dark cherry and cassis mingle with roasted herbs and wisps of mocha rolling over the palate in waves. It’s mid-full weight with generous mouth feel and a long, balanced finish sporting plenty of dark fruit, charred toast and oodles of charm. Good now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Gérard Bertrand ‘Terroir Minervois’ Syrah/Carignon 2010
AOC Minervois $15.95 (952804) 14.0% alcohol
Campfire smoke, dark berry fruit and sandalwood aromas provide segue to smooth, mellow, palate-bathing flavours of black, briary berry and black licorice embroidered by espresso roast. This is medium-full bodied with decent texture and a lingering, luxurious aftertaste redolent of dark, juicy, Bing cherries coated in bittersweet chocolate. This offers terrific value; pair with gourmet burgers or rare-grilled flank steak. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

**** drink now
Château La Tour ‘de l’Évêque’ Rosé 2010
AOC Côtes de Provence $18.95 (319392) 12.5% alcohol
A delightful nose of lilac, kitchen spice and cherry/berry aromas herald a crisp and refreshing wash of spice-laden sour cherry and ripe strawberry wreathed in spice and herbs throughout. The lively finish is lip-smacking good. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel, deft balance and enough structure and oomph to front up well to pan-seared salmon or white pizza—a classy offering. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Maby ‘La Forcadière’ Tavel Rosé 2012
AOC Tavel $16.95 (701318) 14.0% alcohol
The southern Rhone appellation of Tavel produces only Rosé, only from Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and is thought of by some as the bench mark for all Rosè. It may have perceptible tannin, allowing it to be aged, and often, higher alcohol. In this offering there are mixed red berry fruit and piquant spice aromas presaging a tangy, zesty line of red currant and sour cherry streaking across the palate. The finish layers on wisps of tannin and ruby red grapefruit pith on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Mas de Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition’ Rosé 2012
AOC Costières de Nîmes $14.95 (950576) 13.5% alcohol
Often a favourite, this vintage is balanced, fruit forward and very good value. Spice, herbs and berry fruit aromas on the nose, it sports a lively, crisp mouthful of strawberry, currant and watermelon bolstered by spice and rich, dark cherry. Medium weight and very nicely textured, this finishes in a delightful way—clean, crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Château Bellevue ‘La Forêt’ Rosé 2012
AOC Fronton $13.95 (219840) 13.5% alcohol
Fresh and delightful, aromas of black plum, spice and mixed berry fruit abound. Sweet, ripe berry fruit, watermelon and spice interlace with dried currant, and sugared, grilled red grapefruit on the palate. The finish is crisp, balanced and beautiful. Very good value and versatile at the table—pair with smoked salmon. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Pelassa ‘San Vito’ Roero Arneis 2011

DOCG Roero Arneis, Italy $19.95 (317172) 13.0% alcohol 

Arneis is a white indigenous grape of Piedmonte. Due to complexity and its tony neighbourhood, it’s also known as Barolo Bianco. Tropical fruit, floral notes and citrus zest on the nose, it delivers a stunning wash of beautifully balanced flavour—succulent white peach, ripe pear and green apple interlaced with minerality and racy, lip-smacking lemon tang. It’s mid weight with generous mouth feel and mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Valle Reale Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2008
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $18.95 (216408) 13.5% alcohol
Dark coffee, ripe black berry and kitchen spice aromas abound on this nicely balanced red. A generously textured wash of black currant and red cherry mingles with pipe tobacco and mocha persisting through the juicy, dry finish. It’s medium weight with good acidity; pour alongside pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Manzone ‘Le Gramolere’ Barolo 2007
DOCG Barolo $51.95 (318105) 14.5% alcohol
An appealing bouquet of cedar, lilac, dark toast and blueberry wafts easily from this complex, structured, charming and elegant Nebbiolo. Unfined and unfiltered, it dishes up rich, luscious flavours—Montmorency cherries dipped in milk chocolate, black currant and wisps of spice and leather. Mid-full bodied with good mouth feel, the balanced finish offers dark fruit, moderating acidity and a supple tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant three hours if poured now, better served 2015 to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Baroque Primitivo 2011
IGP Salento $15.95 (101410) 13.5% alcohol
Go for baroque; load up the cart with this fruity, crowd pleaser. Aromas of sandalwood, tobacco leaf and kitchen spice aromas mingle with wisps of field berry fruit prior to bathing the palate with juicy black currant, dark cherry and sweet, briary berry. It’s mid weight with good texture and a fruity, balanced aftertaste with mouth-watering acidity. Good to go now with your favourite barbecued meats—steaks, burgers, gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Antinori ‘Pian delle Vigne’ Brunello di Montalcino 2007
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $59.95 (651141) 14.0% alcohol
This is a sleek, lighter-styled Brunello showcasing mostly tangy red fruit on a medium-bodied frame. Red cherry, pomegranate and red currant streak across the palate bolstered by wisps of kirsch liqueur and red licorice. It finishes with astringent, drying tannin and racy, zesty acidity. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Canonica ‘A Cerreto’ Sandiavolo 2006
IGT Toscana $24.95 (270256) 14.0% alcohol
A cedar, black berry and dark toast bouquet heralds a rich and smooth, fruit-laden wash of mulberry, black currant and dark plum burnished with mint and espresso roast. It’s mid-weight and nicely balanced throughout. It finishes with a shower of black plum compote and black raspberry wreathed in moderating acidity and underpinned by perceptible tannin. Pour with rare-grilled hangar steak or grilled strip loin after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Lazzeretti Brunello di Montalcino 2006
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $37.95 (318352) 14.0% alcohol
Lush and inviting on the nose and palate—it’s awash with a heady bouquet of exotic incense, herbs, spice and sweet vanilla. Plush and persistent briary berry pie, ripe mulberry and juicy black Bing cherry flow over the palate infusing the balanced and beautiful, lengthy finish. The aftertaste has good grip and oodles of charm and finesse. Aerate/decant two hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Quinta de Chocapalha ‘Mar da Palha’ 2009
Vinho Regional Lisboa $17.95 (313866) 14.5% alcohol
This family-owned Quinta is a rising star with daughter, Sandra Tavares, assuming the mantle of winemaker to great critical acclaim. The subdued nose offers delicate aromas of dark cherry, dried currant and kitchen spice. Spice-infused black plum, blueberry and strawberry interweave with good moderating acidity and sweet, ripe tannin. Its mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a lively, juicy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** cellar
La Marquesa Valserrano ‘Reserva’ 2007
DOCa Rioja $25.95 (314963) 14.5% alcohol
Lively aromas of wood smoke, tar and black licorice jump from the glass. Juicy and fruit-laden flavours—cassis, black briary berry and red currant—spill over the palate in mid weight, nicely textured waves. It finishes in a blaze with racy acidity, red fruit and a lick of tannin—aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
San José de Aguarón Monasterio de Las Viñas Reserva 2006
DO Cariñena $14.95 (166579) 13.0% alcohol
Floral notes, red cherry and incense herald a lively and lovely river of red currant mingling with kirsch liqueur and spice. Value-packed, balanced and charming, it’s mid weight, nicely textured and blessed with a lingering, smoke-infused, berry fruit aftertaste. Pour alongside chorizo and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Jackson-Triggs Winery – The following Grand Reserve wines have been recently repackaged and re-branded, replacing the Silver and Gold Series. J-T continues to provide excellent quality, good value and delectable taste at every level with these punching well above the price and deserving of your careful attention. You can order these wines for daily home or office delivery from Jackson-Triggs or can pick them up from select Wine Rack Stores or from their Niagara Estate Winery Boutique.

White Wine

**** drink now
Jackson-Triggs ‘Niagara Estate – Grand Reserve’ Gewürztraminer 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 13.5% alcohol
Sexy aromas of lychee nut, rosewater and exotic spice presage a palate-bathing wave of spice- and tropical fruit-driven flavour with succulent melon, peach and yellow plum to the fore. It’s nicely balanced with good texture, light-mid weight and a mid-length finish. The ultimate summer sipper on its own, it has the character and depth to pour with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs ‘Niagara Estate – Grand Reserve’ Riesling 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 13.0% alcohol
Incredibly perfumed with gorgeous aromas of lemon chiffon pie, baked peaches and wisps of beeswax, this races across the palate with focused ferocity—key lime, minerality and pineapple—fleshing out on the lip-smacking aftertaste showcasing lemon yoghurt and sugared, grilled grapefruit. Balanced on a pin and laden with charm, the price-value equation skews well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Jackson-Triggs ‘Niagara Estate – Grand Reserve’ White Meritage 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 13.0% alcohol
This 70% Sauvignon Blanc-30% Semillon blend jumps from the glass with sexy aromas of floral notes, white peach, tropical fruit and lemongrass. It bathes the palate with nicely textured, creamy smooth lemon yoghurt, juicy nectarine and wisps of minerality. It’s crisp and clean with laser-like citrus acidity on the finish while the aftertaste offers hints of white grapefruit pith. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Jackson-Triggs ‘Niagara Estate – Grand Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 13.5% alcohol
This brims with a salad bowl of tropical fruit, racy lemon and peach/nectarine aromas on the nose. A river of balanced, delicious, succulent white peach, tangy lemon pie filling and grilled pineapple washes over the palate infusing the crisp, refreshing finish. The aftertaste layers on green apple and ripe pear. Sip on its own or pair with white pizza topped with chèvre—very good value. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Jackson-Triggs ‘Niagara Estate – Grand Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 13.0% alcohol
This is sublime Pinot Noir from a challenging vintage—juicy, tangy, balanced and complex. Aromas of sandalwood, spice, mineral and pipe tobacco herald a river of earthy, herb-infused flavours. Black, juicy plum, wild strawberry and zesty, red raspberry caress the palate infusing the lengthy, mouth-watering finish. It’s medium bodied with silky mouth feel and good structure. Hats off to winemaker, Marco Piccoli. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Jackson-Triggs ‘Niagara Estate – Grand Reserve’ Shiraz 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 13.5% alcohol
Roasted herbs, white pepper, piquant spice and cedar on the nose, it washes over the palate in a taut line of racy acidity, red berry fruit and grippy tannin. It’s mid bodied and racy throughout with bell pepper and sprigs of herbs interweaving with ripe mulberry on the drying aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Private Order

Order the following by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

Sparkling Wine

***1/2 drink now
Agricola Saputi Spumante Brut Non vintage
DOC Colli Macerates Ribona, Italy $24.50 12.0% alcohol
Binned apple, floral notes and honeyed pit fruit aromas herald a profusion of bubbles and flavour—lemon pie filling and ripe pineapple racing across the palate infusing the pleasant, crisp and refreshing finish. The aftertaste is wreathed with minerality and white peach. This is a light-on-its-feet sipper good to go now as a welcoming wine or aperitif. (Vic Harradine)

White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Domaine de Montgilet Sauvignon 2012
Vin de Pays du Val de Loire $14.95 13.0% alcohol
Tropical fruit, floral notes and citrus meld with hints of mineral aromas on the lovely nose. It’s über tangy with good body and texture—key lime, white grapefruit and zesty lemon streak across the palate. The crisp, racy finish layers on citrus pith and lemon curd. Pour with grilled calamari rings or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Quinta Fernandares Tinto 2008
Vinho Regional Lisboa, Portugal $10.95 14.0% alcohol
From the local Castelão grape, aka Periquita, this offers hi-toned aromas of black plum and chocolate-covered red cherry. Ripe, sweet dark berry fruit mingles with blueberry, sour cherry and spice on the palate persisting through the rustic finish. It’s light-mid weight with an fruity aftertaste overlaid with wisps of tannin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Az. Agricola Terra Fageto ‘Rusus’ Rosso Piceno 2010 

DOC Rosso Piceno, Italy $20.90 13.5% alcohol 

This 50/50, Sangiovese/Montepulciano blend is good value and delicious. Dark and brooding, almost opaque, delightful aromas of incense, earthiness and dark cherry introduce wave after nicely structured wave of rich, ripe mulberry, tangy black currant and spiced, juicy black plum. It’s persistent throughout with a balanced, fruit-forward aftertaste interlaced with moderating acidity and sweet, fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine du Bourdieu ‘Sainte Anne’ 2010
AOC Bordeaux, France $18.50 13.0% alcohol
In 1963, this was the first vineyard to be certified organic in the Bordeaux region. Aromas of ripe black currant, spice and notions of cassis presage palate-bathing, sweet mulberry and kirsch liqueur interwoven with ripe, black cherry rolling in waves. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a long, balanced aftertaste of currant and cherry garnished with mocha and espresso roast. Aerate/decant two hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Châteaux Haut Mallet 2010
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur, France $22.95 13.0% alcohol
Charry toast, roasted herbs and mixed field berry fruit on the nose, this dishes up a delightful mouthful of dried currants and black juicy plum bolstered by lip-smacking acidity and a solid tannin underpinning. From a highly touted vintage, it should reward a further three years of careful cellaring; pop corks 2016 to 2022. If you must, pour now after a three-hour aeration/decant—it has oodles of charm and it’s delicious. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Châteaux Vieux Parc ‘La Sélection’ 2009
AOC Corbières, France $19.55 14.5% alcohol
Sexy aromas of black plum compote, rose petals and incense provide segue to a balanced and beautiful river of rich dark cherry/berry fruit with notions of cassis and toasty notes. The lengthy fruit-forward finish showcases good balance with moderating acidity and sweet, fine-grained tannin for structure and oomph. Aerate/decant two hours before pouring with roast beef and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Bodegas La Purisima ‘Valcorso’ Syrah 2012
DO Yecla, Spain $ TBD 13.5% alcohol
Lively and fresh on the nose, aromas of lilac, freshly crushed grapes and cherry cordial abound. Tantalizing flavours—dark cherry, ripe black raspberry and mixed spice roll over the palate persisting through the tangy, racy, crisp and refreshing finish. It’s mid weight and nicely textured—you’ll enjoy every sip. Good to go now, better in six months, with braised beef and root vegetable ragoût. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic