Winecurrent

April 25, 2013 Newsletter

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

  • Exceptional value winesExceptional Value! just 5 wines meet the strict price/quality criteria; two in the Main Release and three following in Private Order; from $9.95 to $17.95
  • Five stars – two wines ring the 5-star bell, both in the Main Release—an Amarone in the Appassimento Release and a California Cab.
  • Finding Waldo – this Semillon, only $15.95, is almost a decade old and hails from the Barossa Valley. You simply must try this—truly amazing and value-packed.
  • New in Ontario Wineries – Pillitteri, Riverview and Strewn have recently released some fabulous wines and you’ll find them in this section following the Main Release.

This newsletter highlights reviews from the April 27, 2013 Vintages Release with almost 70 wines tasted, spat and reviewed. 


You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting before then. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, still, best to phone first. 

Vintages Release: April 27, 2013

Appassimento Feature

**** drink now
Le Arche ‘Atesio’ Appasimento 2010
Vino Rosso, Italy $16.95 (320747) 14.0% alcohol
There’s good value to be found in this mid-weight, nicely textured, 80% Corvina / 20% Rondinella red blend. The quiet nose offers notions of fig, raisin and spice heralding a lively, well-paced wash of red berry fruit—cranberry and currant—mingling with sour cherry and black currant. It finishes fruity and refreshing on the mid-length aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Masi ‘Grandarella’ 2009
IGT Rosso delle Venezie $25.95 (606921) 14.5% alcohol
A good vintage and iconic producer coalesce in this Refosco / Carmenère blend dishing up lifted aromas of smoke, fennel, ripe fig and dark-roast coffee. It’s rich and luscious on the palate with juicy, tangy red fruit melding with riper, darker black berry and Bing cherry on the finish embroidered with spice and mocha. Mid-full weight with good mouth feel, the finish is dry, refreshing and fruit-filled. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
La Ragose Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2005
DOC Valpolicella Classico $62.95 (700872) 15.5% alcohol
Rich, sweet and concentrated throughout, there’s good depth, concentration and the promise of more from aeration via decanting. Aromas and flavours are fruit forward with black plum compote, black cherry and dried currant wreathed by kitchen spice and bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium-full bodied with generous texture and a lengthy finish underpinned by slightly grippy tannin. Aerate/decant two hours. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Monte del Frá ‘Lena di Mezzo’ Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
DOC Valpolicello Classico $48.95 (047506) 15.0% alcohol
This was an early, warm vintage, generally producing wines more approachable early while still retaining short-term age-ability. Aromas of roasted herbs, dates, spice cake and dried currants jump from the glass of this full bodied, fully textured Amarone. It spills over the palate with a solid tannin underpinning, good moderating acidity and a solid core of dried berry fruit, anise and notions of espresso roast and wood smoke. Full bodied and well textured there’s good concentration and depth throughout. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Vaona Pegrandi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2008
DOC Valpolicella Classico $53.95 (325191) 16.0% alcohol
Balanced, beautiful and brimming with charm, flavour and complexity, the lifted nose sports gamy notes, mixed field berry fruit, leather and spice galore. Palate-coating waves of raisined dark fruit, fig and black licorice roll endlessly through the lingering finish. It’s full bodied and fully textured—round and smooth—with an aftertaste that’s dry, spice-infused and underpinned by sweet, supple tannin. A step up in price, character and from a great vintage; it’s well worth the few extra dollars. Drink now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Remo Farina ‘Montecorna’ Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2010
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $19.95 (056267) 14.0% alcohol
This Wine of the Month selection delivers sweet, ripe fruit, good balance and a lengthy finish. Aromas of toasty oak, gamy bits and field berry fruit provide segue to a spirited wash of red and black berry fruit mingling with sweet, ripe mulberry and juicy black cherry. It’s medium-full weight and nicely textured with a balanced, dry aftertaste. Pours well with beef short ribs. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Antolini Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2009 

DOC Recioto della Valpolicella $28.95 (135533) 500 mL 13.5% alcohol 

For an unusual dessert wine, try this harmonious Recioto, produced from the same 3 grapes as Amarone. The grapes were dried for 130 days, pressed, fermented on the skins for 30 days then aged for a year. Deep and dense, it’s vinous, spicy, sweet and fresh. Black cherry and rich, dark, spiced, dried fruit flavours bathe the palate while elusive notes of dark chocolate and pepper garnish the mouth-watering, fresh, fruity finish. Enjoy with a selection of mature cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Champagne

****1/2 drink or cellar
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin ‘Vintage’ Rosé Champagne 2004
AOC Champagne $97.95 (588475) 12.0% alcohol
Leesy, toasty aromas broaden out to baking brioche on the nose providing segue to a rich, dense and concentrated swath of flavour on the palate—red currant, pomegranate and spice-infused red plum embroidered by a fine-bead mousse and lengthy, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. Has the structure to front up well to roast turkey with all the fixings or pan-seared salmon or tuna. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
La Maison du Crémant ‘Brut’ Crémant de Bourgogne
AOC Bourgogne $17.95 (127811) 12.0% alcohol
This is medium bodied with good mouth feel and plenty of crisp acidity. Yeast and biscuit on the nose, it flows with crisp, green apple coupled with notions of white peach and mango over the palate infusing the racy, clean finish. Good to serve as an aperitif with enough oomph to pair with lighter-styled appetizers—chicken, veal, pork, fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Prevedello ‘Asolo’ ‘Superiore Extra Dry’ Prosecco 2011
DOCG Veneto $17.95 (262881) 11.0% alcohol
A lovely, heady nose bursts forth with musky spice and rose petals wreathed in tropical fruit. It’s clean and lively accentuated by good moderating acidity and blessed with plenty of ripe fruit—yellow peach and ripe mango to the fore. Mid weight with good mouth feel and well balanced, it brims with charm finishing crisp and refreshing. Pour alongside grilled, garlic-rubbed, calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Angels Gate Sauvignon Blanc 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (277590) 13.5% alcohol
With aromas of nettles, minerality and sharp citrus on the nose, this lively savvy delivers a crisp, refreshing mouthful of zesty, lemony citrus, notions of gooseberry and sprigs of herbs. It’s light on its feet, clean and focused with a juicy aftertaste of citrus mingling with apple and pear. Pour alongside pan-seared fish or seafood under freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Huff Estates Pinot Gris 2011 

VQA Ontario $19.95 (134221) 12.5% alcohol 

The exotic nose of red licorice, binned apple with tropical fruit peeking through sets the stage for a bold and balanced Gris. Lively flavours on the palate—blood orange, lemon drop and white peach—give way to a balanced, refreshing aftertaste garnished with orchard fruit and mineral notes. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and oodles of charm. Closely related to Pinot Noir, you may catch a glimmer of a pink hue in this Pinot Gris. Lovely on its own, it also pours well with roast chicken or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hidden Bench ‘Terroir Caché’ Meritage 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $32.95 (505610) 13.0% alcohol
Wood smoke, espresso roast and cocoa on the nose, this dense, concentrated red blend delivers teeth-staining gobs of dark, ripe fruit with dark, briary berry and juicy Bing cherry to the fore. It’s all nicely balanced by excellent moderating acidity and bolstered by a still-resolving tannin frame. It’s full bodied, well textured with a lengthy aftertaste showing good balance and lots of charm. Drink now, the oak’s nicely integrated and the tannins smooth out after a three-hour aeration/decant, or pop corks 2015 - 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

***1/2 cellar
Quails’ Gate Merlot 2010
VQA Okanagan Valley $26.95 (169961) 14.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of Asian spice and cooked red cherries herald a wash of red cherry/berry fruit and black currant along with spice-infused black plum compote. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel finishing dry and lengthy with a stemmy aftertaste underpinned by perceptible tannin. Pour with meat-laden pizza or spaghetti Bolognese. Drink 2016 - 2019. (Vic Harradine.

California: White Wine

**** drink now
Frei Brothers ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2010
Russian River Valley (317891) $23.95 13.9% alcohol
Aromas of tropical fruit—pineapple, honeydew melon and mango—interweave with toasty oak and sweet vanilla on the nose. It bathes the palate with waves of fruit-forward flavour showcasing lemon yoghurt and crisp green apple mingling with oaky bits and kitchen spice. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a refreshing aftertaste garnished with white grapefruit pith and oak. Better 2014 – 2018 when all the pieces integrate. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Kenneth Volk ‘Santa Maria Cuvée’ Chardonnay 2009
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara $23.95 (233981) 14.4% alcohol
Toasty, nutty notes, baked apple and poached pear aromas swirl from this medium-bodied, generously textured balanced and bursting-with-fruit beauty. Delectable flavours bathe the palate—succulent white peach, lemony citrus and sweet vanilla—infusing the lingering, luscious finish. The aftertaste is balanced and flecked with tropical fruit and oaky notes. Roast chicken or slow-roast pork pair well. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
McManis Chardonnay 2011
River Junction $19.95 (265983) 13.5% alcohol
This crowd pleaser is fruit laden, well balanced offering terrific value. Tropical fruit—grilled pineapple and honeydew melon—mingle with racy lemon and green apple setting up a yin and yang, sweet and tang experience, pairing beautifully with spicy Asian dishes. Medium weight with creamy-smooth mouth feel, the lingering, dry finish is crisp and refreshing. Give this a go with tandoori chicken and garlic Naan. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Cosentino ‘Cigarzin’ Zinfandel 2009
California $19.95 (269340) 14.5% alcohol
Lots of leafy, earthy notes mingling with berry fruit and leather on the nose, it sprays over the palate with rich, black currant and mulberry balanced with racy, red berry fruit. It’s medium weight with good texture sporting a juicy, lingering aftertaste that’s brimming with good moderating acidity and notions of mocha and dark coffee. Not an over-the-top, jammy Zin, but rather one with balance and charm. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Eos Estate Petite Sirah 2009
Paso Robles $19.95 (317677) 13.9% alcohol
This opens with subdued aromas of spiced, black berry and juicy dark plum. Rich, concentrated flavours coat the palate—dark, briary berry, ripe Bing cherry and cassis garnished with roasted herbs and truffles. There’s good weight and very good mouth feel—round and smooth—with texture persisting through the long, balanced and nicely structured aftertaste. Good to go now with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Napa Valley $74.95 (071407) 14.6% alcohol
Rich and luscious throughout, this dishes up an array of alluring aromas—charred toast, mixed field berry fruit, spice box and black plum mingling with mint. It’s full bodied with a mellow fleshy mouth feel and a gusher of flavour spilling in waves with cassis, black berry, fennel and tobacco to the fore. The lengthy finish reveals yet more fruit, excellent balancing acidity and plenty of still-resolving tannin. Drink 2017 to 2025. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Hartley-Ostini ‘Hitching Post Hometown’ Pinot Noir 2009
Santa Barbara County $26.95 (256644) 14.2% alcohol
Piquant aromas of spice, herbs and red berry fruit presage an herbaceous river of red currant, strawberry and rich cranberry/rhubarb flavour. It’s well structured and long on the aftertaste with decent balance and no small amount of charm. There’s a solid lick of perceptible tannin—better to pour after a two-hour aeration decant alongside pasta in tomato sauce or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Ramsay Merlot 2010
Napa Valley $24.95 (312827) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of dried herbs, wood smoke and dark plum intro this complex and well-built gem—take that, ‘Sideways’. Silky smooth and mellow, this rolls in waves, round and fleshy, with oodles of flavour—dark plum compote, cherry clafoutie and racy red currant wreathed with spice and bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium bodied with gorgeous texture and a long, balanced and lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Super Hero Wines ‘Inzinerator’ Zinfandel 2009
California $22.95 (281642) 14.5% alcohol
Prune and spice cake aromas meld with sweet vanilla and toasty bits on the nose. Tangy, juicy red berry fruit—cranberry, currant and cherry—balance nicely with riper, darker raspberry and mulberry on the palate. This is medium bodied with nice texture throughout. The finish is lovely with each sip as good or better than the one before and providing the perfect foil to grilled, smoked side ribs and oven-baked, sweet potato fries. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** cellar Exceptional Value!
Familia Zuccardi ‘Organica’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Mendoza $13.95 (068452) 13.5% alcohol
Heady aromas swirl freely—campfire smoke, dark berry fruit and mixed spice. Dense, concentrated black Bing cherry and sweet, ripe mulberry interlace with spice and notions of kirsch liqueur coating the palate and driving through the long, balanced, fruity finish. It’s medium-full bodied, fully textured with structure and wide appeal. The aftertaste lingers with a supple tannin base. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant with what you pull off your barbecue. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink now
Maycas del Limarí ‘Reserva Especial’ Syrah 2009
Limari Valley $19.95 (269423) 14.5% alcohol
Close knit and substantial, this delivers an opaque, fruit-filled, nicely balanced Syrah. Incense, sprigs of roasted herbs and mocha aromas presage a medium-bodied, generously textured mouthful of spiced black plum, ripe mulberry and blueberry interwoven with black pepper and hints of kirsch liqueur. There’s cinnamon and spice and loads of fruit on the long aftertaste—the tannins are soft and supple and the oak’s integrated—good to drink now and good value. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

**** drink now
Loan Wines ‘Unwooded Special Reserve’ Semillon 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $15.95 (301127) 12.5% alcohol
Unique, peculiar and far outside the box, this is stunningly delicious. Aromas of smoke, honeysuckle and caramel apple interweave with sandalwood and baked Brie. There’s a profusion of flavour arriving in waves—peel marmalade, honeyed pit fruit, crème caramel and blood orange cloaked with notions of marzipan. It’s mid weight with a creamy, mellow mouth feel and a glorious aftertaste that’s worth the price of admission. Pick up a few of this affordable treat, sharing with wine-loving friends. (Vic Harradine)

Australia Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gotham Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
McLaren Vale, South Australia $18.95 (311464) 14.0% alcohol
A hedonist’s treasure trove, this nicely balanced, crowd pleaser delivers fruit-forward flavour by the carload. Sweet vanilla and sweet, ripe mulberry mingle with toasty notes on the nose. It’s laden with dense, dark, ripe fruit on the palate and lengthy aftertaste—black currant, sweet mulberry and juicy Bing cherry. Mid weight with plenty of texture, it finishes as it began, rich, ripe and fruit laden. Give it a go with grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Yalumba ‘Patchwork’ Shiraz 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $21.95 (098392) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of pipe tobacco, wood smoke and roasted herbs interlace with cassis and dark cherry on the nose of this mid-full bodied, fully textured Aussie Shiraz. Rich, luscious layers of balanced flavour abound on the palate infusing the long aftertaste—red and black currant, blueberry, dark rich cherry and bramble berry pie. There’s good balance, oodles of charm very good value. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Eradus Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island $17.00 (225557) 13.5% alcohol
Binned apple, ripe pear and herbal tones on the nose, it dishes up an über racy, tangy stream of passion fruit, lemon-lime and white grapefruit. Medium weight with decent texture the finish is crisp and refreshing replaying flavour from the palate with plenty of nerve and verve. Good to go now with freshly shucked oysters showered with a spray of freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Mud House ‘The Woolshed Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough, South Island $20.95 (312744) 13.5% alcohol
Vibrant, racy aromas of lemon-lime, nettles and passion fruit abound in this Vintages’ Wine of Month selection. Key lime, tangy white grapefruit and racy lemon acidity streak over the palate with herbaceous bits and lots of gusto. This is medium bodied with nice texture and finishes in a blaze of taut, lip-smacking passion fruit and gooseberry. Pair with prawn ceviche or tuna sashimi. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Waimea Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Nelson, South Island $17.95 (714295) 13.0% alcohol
Oodles of passion fruit and grassy aromas on the nose providing segue for a crisp, refreshing swath of tangy acidity cutting across the palate—lemon grass and gooseberry interwoven with Green Gage plum jam—and infusing the zesty finish. Medium weight with good texture and versatile at the table—pan-seared fish, grilled calamari rings, green salad under crumbled chèvre all work well. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Lammershoek ‘Roulette Blanc’ 2010
WO Swartland $21.95 (225458) 13.0% alcohol
Always worth a punt, the 2011 vintage doesn’t disappoint. Honeydew melon, honeyed pit fruit and floral aromas herald a smooth fleshy splash of lemon zest, peel marmalade and ripe nectarine interlaced with spice-infused, Mirabelle plum. This dishes up lovely texture, good weight and a long finish that’s fruity, balanced and refreshing. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Saint-Rémy ‘Réserve’ Gewürztraminer 2011
AOC Alsace $18.95 (061150) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic aromas of rosewater, lychee fruit and spice provide an introduction to this sweet and fleshy Gewürzt. Honeyed pit fruit—yellow peach and yellow plum—interweave with musky spice and oodles of ripe tropical fruit on the palate and aftertaste. This will pair well with a fruit flan for dessert. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
J. Geiler ‘Médaillé’ Pinot Gris 2011
AOC Alsace $18.95 (315119) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s an off-dry, very nicely balanced, Gris—loads of ripe fruit accompanied by excellent acidity—that’s flavour-packed and pretty good value. White peach and delicious mango meld with notions of cantaloupe and spiced lemon citrus on the palate. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lip-smacking aftertaste of sweet and tang allowing it to pair well with Pad Thai and other spicy, Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Jean-Marc Brocard ‘Mont de Milieu’ Chablis 1er Cru 2010
AOC Chablis 1er Cru $27.95 (265348) 12.5% alcohol
Crisp and refreshing, this is classic Chablis delivering riveting, laser-like citrussy tang. Green apple, steely minerality and piquant spice on the nose, this is light-medium weight with decent texture and flavours of white grapefruit, crisp Granny Smith apple and Meyer lemon. The crisp, refreshing aftertaste sends one in search of a mound of freshly shucked, Malpec oysters under squirts of freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Domaine de la Grenaudière Muscadet Sèvre & Maine 2011
AOC Muscadet Sèvre & Maine $14.95 (326827) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of green apple, lemon citrus and yeasty bits are a prelude to a lively river of stone fruit—peach and yellow plum—interlaced with ripe, red apple, lemon-lime and minerality on the palate. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a clean, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** drink now
Château Bellevue 2010
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux, Blaye $15.95 (206649) 13.5% alcohol
This is a very good-value, red blend from an appellation that’s not well known; there’s often good fishing in these waters, especially from this solid producer. Wood smoke, mixed spice and dark, field-berry fruit aromas provide segue for a balanced wave bursting with a generous core of juicy flavours—cassis, black currant and hints of spice-laden black plum among them. The fruity finish lingers with good moderating acidity and nice structure to boot. Take a punt on three, popping corks with barbequed burgers or steaks. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Mas Janeil Côtes du Roussillon-Villages 2008
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $19.95 (992800) 14.5% alcohol
A lovely red blend—60% Grenache, 30% Carignan, 10% Syrah—sporting good balance, rich, compact flavour and a fairly lengthy finish—the ubiquitous Lurton boys are at it again. Aromas of espresso roast, berry fruit and leather introduce a well-balanced wash of ripe, red and black berry fruit and red cherry embroidered with spice. It’s mid weight with decent texture and a balanced and brimming-with-fruit aftertaste. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Domaine de Saint Siffrein Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $41.95 (169771) 14.5% alcohol
This Grenache-predominant blend punches well above the price dishing up aromas of local-grown herbs and spice, gamy notes and black briary berry. Rich and luscious cassis, kirsch liqueur and black plum compote interweave with sprigs of herbs and cracked black pepper. Mid-full weight with a creamy smooth texture, the well-balanced taste and aftertaste is monumental in intensity, depth and structure. Aerate/decant three hours and pour now or drink 2018-2025; it’ll reward careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

***1/2 drink now
Château Val Joanis ‘Tradition’ Syrah Rosé 2012
AOC Luberon $14.95 (707281) 13.0% alcohol
Light-bronze hued with heady aromas of rose petals and spiced, red berry fruit, this sports good body and a creamy, smooth texture. Red cherry and red currant flavour roll over the palate finishing in a blaze of citrus acidity with ruby red grapefruit pith appearing on the drying finish. Serve chilled alongside arugula and chèvre dressed with verjus. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink now
Michele Chiarlo ‘Le Orme’ Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2010
DOCG Asti Superiore $15.95 (265413) 13.5% alcohol
The subdued nose of spice and floral notes bursts on the palate with a rich, luscious river of sweet, ripe mulberry and delectable strawberry garnished with moderating acidity and kitchen spice. Medium bodied, good mouth feel and quite focused, there’s a solid line of berry fruit and acidity throughout. Give it a go now poured alongside spaghetti Bolognese or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Apollonio ‘Terragnolo’ Negroamaro 2007
IGT Salento $18.95 (211821) 14.5% alcohol
The Salento region is the entire heel of the Italian boot with Negroamaro producing many of the better wines. This six-year-old red was hand-harvested from 100% Negroamaro spending 12 months in French barriques. Dark berry fruit, cedar and spice aromas herald a rich, dense river of black currant, briary berry and espresso roast persisting through the satiny-textured, lingering, balanced finish. Well paced and well priced. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Castello di San Sano ‘Guarnellotto’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico Riserva $23.95 (317529) 13.5% alcohol
Lively, racy with great nerve and verve throughout, aromas of red berry fruit and piquant spice abound. It showers the palate with a solid river of racy tangy flavour—sour cherry and red currant embroidered with notions of slate and dark coffee. It’s mid weight with a dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Fattoria di Basciano ‘Il Corto’ 2009
IGT Colli della Toscana Centrale $27.95 (134775) 13.5% alcohol
Tobacco leaf, roasted herbs and dark berry fruit aromas herald a mid-weight, nicely textured wash of briary berry and toasty notes coupled with mixed spice. It finishes in a blaze or red berry fruit—currant and raspberry—mingling with sprigs of herbs. Pour alongside prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Vicchiomaggio ‘San Jacopo’ Chianti Classico 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (710194) 13.5% alcohol
Cedar, wood smoke and red berry fruit dominate the aromas followed by a spirited flow of red currant, cranberry and sour cherry along with hints of kirsch liqueur and blueberry. It’s medium bodied with decent mouth feel and a lengthy drying, racy aftertaste. Good to go now with oven-braised beef with tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Langa ‘Tradicion Centenaria’ Garnacha 2008
DO Calatayud $14.95 (194795) 14.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of exotic incense, Asian spice, dark berry fruit and mocha swirl from this fruit-laden, good-value gem. On the palate it’s tangy, racy and fruity by turns, with red currant and sour cherry on the mid-palate and black currant and mulberry on the finish. It’s mid-full bodied with good texture and a dense, red cherry aftertaste underpinned by perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pairing with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Miguel Torres ‘Mas La Plana’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
DO Penedès $54.95 (129676) 14.5% alcohol
A quiet nose of floral notes, mixed spice and leather intro a vibrant blend of flavours washing over the palate with red cherry, kirsch liqueur and spiced black plum predominant. This is mid weight with good mouth feel and a dry finish sporting a racy line of acidity mingling with earthy and oaky tones plus still-resolving tannin. Pop corks 2016-2022. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages release; May 11, 2013

**** drink now
Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Cabernet Sauvigon 2011
Margaret River, Western Australia $17.95 (323741) 14.0% alcohol
Rich aromas of dark berry fruit, spice-infused black plum and floral notes blossom forth from this mid-full weight, very good value Cab. It’s balanced and brimming with dense, fruit-laden flavour—dark, briary berry, black cherry and dried currant—interweaving with mocha and notions of roasted herbs. This is nicely structured with a lingering finish underpinned by supply tannin. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages release; May 25, 2013

***1/2 drink now
Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Pinot Grigio 2010
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $16.95 (159806) 12.5% alcohol
Granny Smith apple and ripe pear on the nose, it streaks over the palate with a crisp, refreshing stream of green apple, white peach and oodles of racy, tangy lemon. Medium bodied and full of nerve and verve, it finished in a blaze of citrus—pineapple, white grapefruit and spiced, lemony tang. Pour with pan-seared white fish under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

***1/2 drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery Cabernet Merlot 2010 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (349191) 12.5% alcohol 

This red blend opens with quiet aromas of savory herbs and hints of tobacco. Red cherry, currant and a solid underpinning of tannin wash over the palate infusing the drying finish moderated by good acidity. It’s light on its feet with nice texture and a craving to snuggle up to pasta in tomato sauce or pepperoni pizza. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

**** drink now
Pillitteri Estates Rosé 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.20 12.5% alcohol
A mature Rosé—it’s sourced from 100% Cabernet Franc exclusively from the highly respected, N-O-T-L sub-appellation. A unique style, it shows its stuff with good mouth feel and full flavour, framed with hints of ripe tannin. There’s oomph and structure on the palate with mid weight, good texture and a persistent stream of racy red currant and ruby-red grapefruit pith through the lip-smacking finish. Good to go now with roast chicken, turkey or white pizza. Order online for daily home or office delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)

Riverview Cellars – Order the following by the case of 12—mixed, if you like—with daily free delivery to your home or office in Ontario from Riverview.

**** drink now
Riverview Cellars Baco Noir 2011
VQA Niagara River $15.95 12.5% alcohol
Spirited aromas of roasted herbs, black plum and buckets of spice rip from the glass of this value-packed Baco. Full bodied and fully flavoured, it coats the palate with sour cherry and red currant garnished with charred toast persisting through the dry, racy, lip-smacking finish; it’s loaded with fruit, good acidity and a firm tannin base. Pour with a hearty stew like Osso Bucco or a slab of spicy, grilled, barbecued ribs. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Riverview Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
VQA Niagara River $16.95 13.0% alcohol
Wood smoke, anise and underbrush aromas presage a tangy, juicy river of cherry-berry fruit, scorched herbs and spice with a solid underpinning of still-resolving tannin. A careful, three-hour aeration/decant is in order—it may throw a harmless deposit. It’ll certainly reward careful cellaring, pop corks 2015 – 2019. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Riverview Cellars ‘Rosso’ Cabernet Merlot 2011
VQA Niagara River $16.95 13.0% alcohol
Lively aromas of incense, black plum and wood smoke billow from this balanced and bursting-with-flavour, red blend. Racy red cherry and tangy cranberry stream across the palate wreathed in good acidity sporting a solid, still-resolving, tannin base. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and a nicely structured, lengthy finish of dark berry fruit and black cherry. Better poured with grilled steaks after a three-hour decant. There’s great value here. (Vic Harradine)

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Riverview Cellars ‘Barrel 21’ Merlot Syrah 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $29.95 13.0% alcohol
Über limited production—only 19 beautifully balanced cases produced from one, meticulously selected, American-oak barrel—you’ll need to be quick to snag one. Lifted aromas of dark raisins, mocha and cherry cola provide segue to a rich, luscious and structured river of tangy red cherry and red currant mingling with riper, sweet mulberry, black pepper and spice. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lingering racy, tangy aftertaste with each sip as good, or better, than the previous. (Vic Harradine)

Strewn Winery - Order the following by the case for daily home or office delivery in Ontario by phone 905-468-1229 or online from Strewn Winery.

**** drink or cellar
Strewn ‘Terroir’ Cabernet Franc 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $28.00 13.4% alcohol
Black currant, sprigs of herbs, pipe tobacco and charred toast on the nose, this is tangy, juicy and delicious. There’s a boatload of sweet, ripe briary berry and black Bing cherry peeking out from beneath the grippy tannin. It’s mid-full weight and balanced with good mouth feel and a long tangy aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring alongside grilled strip loins and grilled portobello mushrooms.

****1/2 cellar
Strewn ‘Terroir’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $30.00 13.1% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, spice and leather aromas herald crisp, tangy waves of flavour with juicy black plum and spice-infused black currant to the fore. This is medium-full weight with a creamy smooth texture; it’s still in its infancy showcasing good fruit, moderating acidity and grainy tannin providing promise of an optimum drinking window 2016 to 2020. It’ll be well worth the wait, pick up three or more and reap the reward. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Strewn ‘Terroir’ Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $26.00 13.6% alcohol
Exotic spice, tobacco leaf and heady aromas of ripe, dark berry fruit and prunes fill the air. It’s smooth, mellow and flavour-packed—racy, red cherry and cranberry coat the palate wreathed in excellent moderating acidity and a firm underpinning of still-resolving tannin. There’s good weight and mouth feel and a beautifully structured, lengthy finish. Aerate/decant two hours and pour with rare roast beef and root veggies. Very good value. (Vic Harradine)

Private Order

Order the following by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

White Wine

**** drink now
Cantine Sant’Isidoro Marche Bianco 2011
IGT Marche Bianco, Italy $19.25 14.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of honeysuckle, stone fruit and melon waft freely. The Pecorino grape really shines in this wine, the Marche region is believed to be its ancestral home. An intensely flavoured wash of lemon-lime, pineapple and white grapefruit roll over the palate in waves mingling with notions of minerality. It’s mid-full bodied with plenty of texture and a long, drying finish redolent of citrus pith with wisps of tannin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Cantine Sant’Isidoro Marche Bianco 2012
IGT Marche Bianco, Italy $19.25 13.5% alcohol
Tropical fruit, white flowers and ripe yellow plum on the nose, this bathes the palate with a balanced, richly flavoured, fully textured river of ripe mango, nectarine and grilled pineapple. It’s medium-full bodied with a creamy smooth mouth feel and a lingering, crisp and refreshing aftertaste—lemon yoghurt garnished with yellow peach. Pours well with roast chicken or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Cantine Sant’Isidoro ‘Pausula’ 2011
DOC Colli Macerates Ribona, Italy $18.75 12.5% alcohol
Hand harvested and vinified from the rare, indigenous grape, Ribona, aka Maceratino, it opens with attractive aromas of tropical fruit and floral notes. This is mid weight with good mouth feel sporting a lively line of lemony tang wreathed in notions of peach and pear. It’s crisp and refreshing on the lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste with lemon and pineapple to the fore. Give it a go with pan-seared fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Cantine Sant’Isidoro ‘Pausula’ 2012
DOC Colli Macerates Ribona, Italy $18.75 12.5% alcohol
Attractive aromas of honeyed stone fruit and yellow plum flan run rampant heralding a delightful, slightly off-dry wash of ripe melon, peach and lemon chiffon pie. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured sporting a mid-length finish of lemongrass and notions of grapefruit pith. This is quite versatile—pour on its own as a welcoming wine or aperitif, or alongside chicken biryani or butter chicken. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Cantine Sant’Isidoro ‘Pinto’ 2011
DOC Rosso Piceno, Italy $11.75 12.5% alcohol
100% Sangiovese, spending nine months in oak, it barrels from the glass with fresh, lively aromas of cherry cola, lilac and spiced dark plum. A spirited river of red cherry and ripe cranberry embroidered by racy red raspberry and mixed spice persists through the crisp, tangy finish. The dry, structured aftertaste is zingy and refreshing throughout. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden pizza—terrific value here. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Cantine Sant’Isidoro ‘Montolmo’ 2011
IGT Marche Rosso, Italy $19.25 14.0% alcohol
This classy red dishes up a deftly balanced, smooth-as-silk gem. A delectable shower of black and red currant mingling with dark cherry is bolstered by good weight and beautifully textured mouth feel. The dry, delicious finish is garnished by good fruit flavour, deft balance and a rustic, approachable structure. The price-quality ratio tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Pulpit Rock ‘Cape Tranquility’ 2012
WO Coastal Region, South Africa $9.95 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of ripe black berry with black plum compote interlace with hints of menthol, spice and roasted herbs. It’s a red blend that’s rich, luscious, smooth and mellow on the palate with concentrated flavours of succulent black cherry and briary berry. There’s good mouth feel with a lingering, balanced and lip-smacking aftertaste—exceptional value here. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Qualia Wine ‘Inspired Company’ Cabernet/Merlot 2012
South Eastern Australia - $14.95
Red cherry and mixed spice aromas provide segue for a balanced and beautiful river of red currant and mixed field berry wreathed in spice and dark toasty bits. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a long, warm, fruity aftertaste with flourishes of vanilla and a supple tannin base—aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan