Winecurrent

February 12, 2013 Newsletter

LCBO closings on Family Day – Monday, February 18

All LCBO stores will be closed on Monday, February 18 for Family Day. Some LCBO agency stores will observe their normal hours of business on February 18. LCBO offices, including LCBO Customer Service and the helloLCBO Contact Centre, will also be closed on Family Day.

For more information, customers should contact the toll-free, bilingual helloLCBO Contact Centre at 1-800-668-5226 or online at www.helloLCBO.com. In Toronto, call 416 365-5900. The TTY number for the deaf or hard of hearing is 416 864-6898 or 1-800-361-3291.

California Wine Fair

The California Wine Fair visits 6 cities across Canada, venues are often sold out. Purchase tickets now; the $70. admission includes a tasting of all wines – usually more than 100 wineries represented and over 400 wines to taste - plus light snacks. No tickets sold at the door.

  • Tuesday, April 2nd: Quebec City, Espace Dalhousie
  • Wednesday, April 3rd: Montreal, Quebec, Le Centre Sheraton
  • Friday, April 5th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa
  • Monday, April 8th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
  • Wednesday, April 10th: Calgary, Alberta, Hotel Arts
  • Thursday, May 2nd: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Pier 21

You can purchase tickets online at www.calwine.ca now or have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675). 


Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

  • Ontario Wineries – there’s an embarrassment of riches in and following the Main release with wines from Château des Charmes, Huff Estates, Konzelmann and Rosewood reaching dizzying heights with stars and price-quality ratios – you must take a look.
  • Exceptional value wines – few wines meet the strict price/quality criteria; only seven wines earned the Exceptional Value!, one in the Vintages Release, all others follow the main release.
  • 5-stars – very few wines attain this ranking, only one here—a Konzelmann Gewürztraminer at an unbelievable $17.20 and found after the main release.
  • Finding Waldo – formerly called ‘Steen’, its true home is the Loire Valley, but it’s now South Africa’s most widely planted grape with a range of styles including oaked, non-oaked and dessert wine available. Pick up this 4-star offering for only $16.95.
  • Vic’s Vintages’ pick – Fielding Estate Riesling 2011 4½ stars at $18.95. A gem that’s just off-dry, deftly balanced, great value and absolutely delectable. What’s not to like?

This newsletter begins with reviews from the February 16, 2013 Vintages Release followed by wines in various categories including: future releases in Upstream, New in Vintages, New in the LCBO Portfolio, and New in Ontario Wineries who’ll ship wines by the case to your door—over 50 wines reviewed in this newsletter.


You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting before then. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, still, best to phone first.

Vintages Release: February 16, 2013

Tuscany Feature

***1/2 drink or cellar
Giacomo Mori Chianti 2009
DOCG Chianti $17.95 (068858) $17.95 13.5% alcohol
Subdued aromas of earthiness and cedar mingle with kitchen spice on the nose. Black currant and dark cherry wash over the palate embroidered with notions of savoury herbs and floral notes. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with a balanced mid-length aftertaste. This is straightforward with no sharp edges pouring well with red, meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $27.95 (650754) 13.5% alcohol
The rich involved nose jumps from the glass with lively aromas of sandalwood, exotic spice and dark, field berry fruit. Tangy, juicy, complex flavours bathe the palate—red cherry and black currant wreathed with spice and herbs. Mid weight with good mouth feel, it’s underpinned with ripe, supple tannin and balanced nicely with good moderating acidity. It finishes balanced and beautiful. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Valiano ‘Poggio Teo’ Chianti Classico 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $18.95 (250563) 13.5% alcohol
Hand-harvested, single-vineyard fruit shines through on the nose with alluring aromas of leather, spice, dark cherry and black plum. Rich and robust waves coat the palate with red and dark fruit to the fore—red currant, briary berry and ripe mulberry. There’s a streak of moderating acidity throughout—balanced and beautiful—with good weight and texture heralding a lingering finish garnished with fennel, bittersweet chocolate and savoury herbs. Quite good value here. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2009
DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano $25.95 (988055) 14.5% alcohol
There’s an awful lot to like about this—it’s balanced, brimming with fruit and beautifully structured. Sweet vanilla, toasty notes and bright cherry aromas introduce this hedonistic gem. Ripe, sweet, dark berry fruit and kirsch liqueur swirl over the palate and through the long, balanced finish mingling with black licorice underpinned with fine-grained tannin. Pick up a couple. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Riolite Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2009
DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano $19.95 (316950) 13.5% alcohol
Piquant herbs and spice mingle with red berry fruit and rose petals on the aromatic nose. A delightful surge of cassis, red currant and sour cherry bathes the palate. It’s medium weight with silky smooth texture and a mid-length finish that’s racy and lip-smacking good. Give it a go with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2007
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $41.95 (579094) 13.5% alcohol
This opens with a quiet nose of mixed spice, floral notes and cola. Nicely built and brimming with charm, the smooth and mellow texture carries flavours of juicy bramble berry and spice-infused black plum. It’s medium bodied with a lingering, balanced aftertaste showcasing dark berry fruit and racy red currant wreathed in dark toast and mocha. Pour now, alongside osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2007
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $57.95 (994095) 14.0% alcohol
Involved and interesting aromas abound—sandalwood, pipe tobacco, exotic spice and berry fruit. Mid weight with generous texture and deft balance, it washes in waves with racy red cherry and red currant juxtaposed with rich, dense and ripe, sweet mulberry. It finishes mid length with good fruit and acidity and wisps of sweet tannin and espresso roast on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Mocali ‘Vigna Delle Raunate’ Brunello di Montalcino 2007
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $46.95 (162552) 14.0% alcohol
From the acclaimed ’07 vintage, it’s the pick of this Brunello line up—sophisticated, complex, structured and hi-toned with oodles of charm and many years ahead. Red licorice, rose petals and anise on the nose, it washes in endless waves with mulberry and bramble berry infused with spice and dark, toasty notes. It finishes balanced and beautiful, brimming with flavour and perceptible tannin. Better in a couple of years, aerate/decant three hours if you can’t wait, pouring with rare, roast beef. Will be drinking nicely into the mid 2020s. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2006
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $34.95 (208462) 14.0% alcohol
A lively nose of black licorice, floral notes and mixed, field berry fruit provide segue for a solid core of tangy, juicy, red berry fruit with currant, cranberry and cherry vying for attention. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel sporting a dry, savoury finish garnished with lip-smacking acidity and a solid tannin underpinning. Best poured 2015 and on. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

****1/2 cellar
Quinta De La Rosa Vintage Port 2009
DOC Douro $49.95 (741397) 20.4% alcohol
Glass and palate coating, this rich and dense offering needs a decade in cellar before providing another two decades of enjoyment—wonderful Port, great value. Aromas of cedar, sweet, rich cherry and spice abound. It coats the palate with kirsch liqueur and spice flavours embroidered with lively, juicy red berry fruit and ripe black currant. It’s full bodied and smooth as silk, in spite of still-resolving tannin. This is a small, family-owned, meticulously run Port house. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta Do Noval ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port 2005
DOC Douro $24.95 (677815) 19.5% alcohol
LBV Port can be consumed upon purchase or kept 5 to 8 years. It’s not far off how a 15-year-old Vintage Port might taste—it was kept in wood 4 to 6 years before bottling, much longer than Vintage Port. Often not requiring a decant, it can be drunk over a couple of weeks after opening. Spice cake, rich dark berry fruit and sandalwood on the nose, it dazzles the palate with a rich, dense river of sweet, ripe mulberry, cassis and bittersweet chocolate running through the balanced and brimming-with-fruit aftertaste—good value. (Vic Harradine)

Fortified Wine: Sherry

**** drink now
Bodegas Hidalgo Manzanilla La Gitana

DO Jerez y Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Spain) $13.95 500 mL (745448) 15.0% alcohol

The expressive nose on this fully-textured Sherry is pure 'rancio', a term almost defying description, but think of dried, spicy fruit, over-ripe cantaloupe and burnt sugar—once smelled, never to be forgotten. This is dry, fully textured and offers salty and zesty flavours of nuts, figs and dried fruit. The finish is balanced, warm and lengthy. Serve chilled with sea food, especially briny shrimp. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

****1/2 drink now
Ayala Majeur ‘Brut’ Champagne Non Vintage 

AOC Aÿ $48.95 (004143) 12.0% alcohol 

I got excited about this, excited for you... you can’t pop Champagne every time company drops by, but you might for special guests; this’ll do it with great style. Toasty, nutty and floral aromas segue a lavish mousse of fine-bead bubbles and generous texture riding a wave of über-ripe, white peach and juicy pear. It finishes with slate, crisp green apple and citrus on the mouth-watering finish. There’s a world of value here. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Ivoire’ Brut Blanc de Blancs Non-vintage 

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $18.95 (48801) 12.0% alcohol 

Dry, light in body, offering a fine creamy mousse, this lovely Crémant balances refreshing vibrant acidity, clean minerality and subtle notes of citrus, green apple and brioche. Long and bright on the finish, it’s excellent value and can be enjoyed on its own or with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Fielding Estate Riesling 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 10.5% alcohol 

Brimming with alluring aromas, balance and lip-smacking flavour, this was tough to spit. Aromas of nectarine, apple and pear interweave with mineral notes on the nose then rocket across the palate with a gusher of spice-infused Granny Smith apple, pear and bracing lemon-lime. It’s mid weight and nicely textured finishing in a blaze of mouth-watering, just-off-dry, sweet and tang. Great value. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Rosewood Merlot 2010 

VQA Niagara Escarpment $22.00 (211896) 13.5% alcohol 

Ruby violet, this enchanting red offers beguiling aromas of black fruit, spice, chocolate-coated roasted nuts and a whiff of smoke. Dry, medium-full bodied and quite plush, the texture is smooth and fresh, the tannin ripe and pliant while the rich dark fruit’s paired perfectly with spice and tangy pepper. There’s subtle earthiness and a hint of peppery warmth on the toasty finish. Give it time to further integrate, then match to grilled beef tenderloin with wild mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Clay Station ‘Unoaked’ Viognier 2011
Lodi $16.95 (025411) $16.95 13.5% alcohol
Fragrant aromas of honeyed, pit fruit and exotic spice herald a light-on-its-feet wash of sweet, ripe, white peach, nectarine and tropical fruit. It glides delicately across the palate and into a mid-length, fruit-filled finish garnished with honey and notions of lemongrass. Pours well with tandoori chicken or Pad Thai. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Franciscan Estate Merlot 2008
Napa Valley $27.95 (067793) 13.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of cola, cedar and dried fruit mingling with piquant spice provide segue for a silky-smooth surge of bramble berry, currants and black plum compote. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with a lengthy, balanced finish wreathed in fine-grained tannin, good moderating acidity and complex replays of the fruit and warm spice. Good to go now with slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Rutherford Ranch ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2009
Napa Valley $19.95 (279828) 16.0% alcohol
Hi octane, smooth and mellow on entry, this dishes up aromas of rich berry fruit and raisins on the nose. Rich, ripe, concentrated flavours of stewed black plum, cherry clafoutie and dark, juicy berry fruit coat the palate. It’s mid-full bodied with good mouth feel and a warm, fairly balanced aftertaste garnished with spice and peppery notes underpinned by supple tannin. Pour with grilled back ribs covered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Luigi Bosca Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 

Maipu, Mendoza $17.95 (128629) 14.0% alcohol 

Cherry, dark berry fruit and charred toast aromas prelude a tangy, juicy river of flavour with red cherry, briary berry and espresso roast leading the way. It’s mid weight and well textured sporting a lengthy, balanced finish of juicy cherry, blueberry and nutmeg. Pair with smoked, grilled back ribs slathered in BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Trapiche Fincas ‘Las Palmas’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

Mendoza $16.95 (143206) 14.0% alcohol 

A single-vineyard wine, this offers enticing aromas of blackcurrant, spice, mint and cedar. Dry and medium-full bodied, it has a long mouth-watering finish. Richly flavoured with dark fruits, spice and mocha it also has good structure and moderate acidity, making it an ideal food wine. Enjoy it with rare-roasted or grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Five Stones ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (KPM) 2010
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (157305) 13.5% alcohol
This barrels from the glass with heady aromas of roasted herbs, mixed spice box and oaky notes. It’s medium bodied and complex with a palate-coating, teeth-staining, dense river of bramble berry, juicy Bing cherry and sprigs of savoury herbs. The aftertaste layers on wisps of fine-grained tannin, moderating acidity and sweet, black plum compote. Slow roast pork with spicy barbecue sauce pours well alongside. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Majella Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Coonawarra, South Australia $36.95 (301531) 14.5% alcohol
This is a top drop, from a well-respected producer hailing from the tony Coonawarra region. Roasted herbs, gamy notes and loads of spice on the nose, this flows over the palate in waves with black currant, cassis and minty, black cherry to the fore. It’s medium-full weight with good texture and a lengthy, stylish aftertaste that’s fruit-forward and wreathed with savoury herbs and espresso roast. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds ‘Bin 389’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2009
South Australia $44.95 (309625) 14.5% alcohol
One of Australia’s highly collectible reds with a loyal following—it’s listed in the ‘Outstanding’ category of the vaunted ‘Langton’s Classification’. As an experimental wine at Penfolds prior to its first release in 1960, it was stored in a bin numbered 389, hence the name. Minerality, exotic spice and floral notes on the nose, it dishes up terrific value and is not passed over easily. Ripe fruit bathes the palate with complexity and charm—black currant and briary berry embroidered with racy, moderating acidity and an underlying supple tannin structure. Pick up three, opening one in 12 months, one in 2017 and the other in 2020. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Turkey Flat ‘Butchers Block’ Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre 2009 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (090241) 14.5% alcohol 

A good friend brought me back a bottle of Turkey Flat from a trip to Australia 15 years ago paying $50 a bottle—the quality’s still the same, you gotta’ love the price now. Underbrush, gamy notes, dark fruit and aromatic bitters on the nose, this dishes up a tangy, racy rendition of the popular GSM red blend. Mid weight, nicely textured and brimming with flavour, there’s good red cherry/berry fruit with lashings of ripe bramble berry for balance. It finishes with the lip-smacking tang of cranberry and red cherry interwoven with sprigs of savoury herbs and spice. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Kim Crawford ‘SP Boyszone’ Pinot Gris 2007 

Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (036954) 13% alcohol 

The doyen of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc tries his hand with this spicy Pinot Gris. SP stands for ‘Small Parcels’ of unique hand-crafted fruit. There’s a quiet nose of pit fruit and rosewater—small amounts of Gewürztraminer and Riesling blended—and a lovely expression of fresh fruit flavour on the palate with honeydew melon, lemony citrus and spiced yellow plum. Light on its feet, it has good acidity and balance, finishing crisp and clean. Tasting notes from May, 2009—would not expect it improved with age. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (009167) 13.5% alcohol
This brims with grassy, herbaceous aromas and oodles of lip-smacking flavours—Meyer lemon and Key lime pie mingling with ripe, yellow peach caressing the palate in waves. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and A lengthy, racy, crisp and refreshing finish. It’s rock-solid-four stars and good value. Pour with pan-seared fish showered in freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Spice Route Chenin Blanc 2011
WO Western Cape $16.95 (174623) 14.0% alcohol
Honeyed, spice-infused pit fruit—white peach, nectarine—and lemongrass aromas presage a rich, luscious stream of pineapple, apricot and melon mingling with apple pie spice and citrus on the palate and through the mid-lengthy, crisp, mineral, racy aftertaste. It’s medium bodied, brimming with flavour and well balanced. Give it a go with lightly seasoned veal, chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Fairview ‘Caldera’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2008
WO Coastal Region $22.95 (301333) 14.0% alcohol
A lifted nose of roasted herbs, gamy notes and black plum presage a surge of tarry flavours—black currant and dark cherry—coating the palate. Medium-full bodied and generously textured, the aftertaste brims with ripe, dark fruit garnished with dark chocolate and sprigs of savoury herbs. Deserving of a serious slab of grilled, back ribs, dry-rubbed with piquant spice and herbs. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

*** drink or cellar
Anselmann Gewürztraminer Kabinett 2011
Prädikatswein Pfalz $14.95 (909697) 10.5% alcohol
Rosewater and other exotic aromas capture attention. It’s sweet and perfumed on the palate, as well, with lighter-styled, ripe, sweet tropical fruit and honeyed pit fruit galore. This pours well for those preferring a delicate white with sweet fruit flavours. It provides excellent accompaniment to Benedictine Blue or Époisses de Bourgogne. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink now
Abbona Rinaldi Barbera d’Alba 2010
DOC Barbera d’Alba $19.95 (216416) 14.5% alcohol
An involved nose of earthy tones, wood smoke, berry fruit and exotic spice aromas waft easily from this drink-me-now Barbera. Ripe, sweet flavours bathe the palate with mulberry, black currant and cherry interwoven with kirsch liqueur and mixed spice. An impressive red, the finish is balanced and brimming with flavour. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Gemma ‘Colarej’ Barolo 2007
DOCG Barolo $34.95 (232447) 14.0% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of kitchen spice, lilac and cherry cordial herald rich and robust waves of ripe, red currant, lively cherry and blueberry that bathe the palate infusing the lengthy, lip-smacking finish. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with a lingering aftertaste of roasted herbs and spice. This pours well with chorizo and prawn paella or meat-laden gourmet pizza. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Pecchenino ‘San Luigi’ Dolcetto di Dogliani 2010
DOC Dolcetto di Dogliani $19.95 (303479) 13.0% alcohol
Rich red cherry, cola and fennel on the nose, it spills over the palate with complex and structured flavours—ripe red currant and red cherry laced with Asian spice and notions of minerality. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a balanced and beautiful finish brimming with red and black currant, blueberry and excellent moderating acidity. Give it a go with bruschetta with tomato and basil followed by pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Tenuta Rocca ‘Ornati’ Langhe 2006
DOC Langhe $21.95 (309369) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of spice and herbs, earthy notes and dark berry fruit waft freely from this medium-bodied, nicely textured gem. An indigenous/international red blend with 1/3 each—Nebbiolo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon—delivering an involved river of rich, ripe fruit with tangy black currant and dark cherry to the fore. It dishes up a lengthy gorgeous finish brimming with ripe red berry fruit and lip-smacking acidity. Pour with spicy Italian sausage and pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Bodegas Balbás ‘Ardal’ Crianza 2005

DO Ribera del Duero $16.95 (167601) 14.0% alcohol

This red blend—90% Tempranillo. 10% Cabernet Sauvignon—opens with a richly perfumed nose of dark berry fruit, vanilla and floral aromas. It’s well balanced, medium-full bodied with a textured mouth feel and flavour galore—racy red berry and sweet ripe red cherry adorned by spice and hints of toasty notes. There’s a lip-smacking lingering finish that sets it up for a delightful pairing with meat and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bodegas Volver ‘Tarima Hill’ Monastrell 2009
DO Alicante $19.95 (310169) 15.0% alcohol
Exotic aromas and flavours abound in this rich, complex Monastrell aka Mourvèdre. Leather, spice, underbrush and stewed fruit on the nose, it delivers a full-bodied mouthful of dense flavour—kirsch liqueur, black plum compote and boysenberry pie. It lightens up on the delectable aftertaste via lip-smacking acidity and fennel-infused red cherry. An impressive red that’s good value. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release March 30, 2013

**** drink or cellar
Château des Charmes ‘Estate-bottled Old Vines’ Riesling 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (277228) 12.5% alcohol (March 30 Vintages)
Harvested from 20-30 year-old vines from the Paul Bosc estate vineyard, the fruit for this wine shines through with notes of citrus, apricot and pear, a decided note of mineral tantalizing the nose. Brilliant straw, dry and mid weight, this is an elegantly balanced wine. Crisp acidity braces a lively, tangy rush of citrusy fruit, the lovely fresh finish offering a mineral flourish. Good wine, good value, and a fine match to broiled steelhead trout. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Rosewood Estates ‘Natalie’s Süssreserve’ Riesling 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.00 11.0% alcohol
Süssreserve - a small portion of unfermented juice is kept aside then added in slowly just before bottling, increasing sweetness, texture and natural acidity. Grapey, lime, and orchard fruit aromas herald an expressive, concentrated wash of ripe, apricot, honeyed pear and candied lychee melding with racy citrus flavours on the palate. It’s mid weight and fully textured with a long, sweet and tang finish that’s on the hunt for Pad Thai or tandoori chicken. Good value and worth a punt. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release May 11, 2013

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Puech-Haut ‘Prestige – Saint-Drézéry’ 2010
AOP Coteaux-du-Languedoc, France $24.95 (237289) 14.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit—bramble and currant—mingle with spice, cola, black licorice and espresso roast on the expressive nose. It’s mid-full weight with good texture and palate-coating flavours—cassis, dark juicy cherry and black plum—washing in complex, structured waves. The balanced and beautiful aftertaste embroiders moderating acidity and fine-grained tannin on the delectable, lip-smacking fruit-forward flavour. Don’t hesitate to pick up a few—drinking well now to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

****1/2 drink or cellar
Huff Estates ‘South Bay Vineyards’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 (88955) 12.5% alcohol
A top-notch, impressive Chardonnay with exotic spice, sweet vanilla, hazelnut and citrus aromas—beautifully constructed with a boatload of charm. It’s medium-full bodied and fully textured dazzling the palate with tangy Granny Smith apple, blood orange and lemon yoghurt wreathed with minerality, toasty bits and exhilarating, lip-smacking acidity leading to a crisp, clean and refreshing aftertaste. Great now, better 2014 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Konzelmann ‘Family Reserve’ Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $27.00 (299214) 13.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this is a finely crafted, approachable red offering lovely aromas of sweet, ripe, dark fruit, spice, vanilla and a whiff of tobacco. Dry, medium-full bodied, dark toasty notes mingle with lush, spicy fruit. Well balanced, velvety tannins and fine acidity frame the fruit and offer the potential for aging. There’s an elusive note of dark chocolate on the warm, dry, sweetly fruity finish. Enjoy alongside steak with a red-wine sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rosewood Estates ‘Natural Fermentation Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $39.95 (318345) 14.0% alcohol
Produced from hand-picked fruit and fermented with naturally occurring, wild yeast, this was aged 10 months in French oak. Burgundian in style, it offers a complex nose of herbs, spice, underbrush, smoke and tangy red fruit. Dry, light-mid weight, it marries tangy acidity and red fruit—cherry, cranberry and currant—with a touch of spice and nuances of cocoa and white pepper. Savoury, earthy and tangy, it has a lasting, crisp finish. A great match for duck confit or chicken cacciatore. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Gérard Bertrand ‘Arte de Vivre’ - Réserve Spéciale’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
IGP Pays d’Oc, France $11.95 (234815) 13.5% alcohol
This knock-your-socks-off Cab sports a fruit-filled mouthful of delicious flavour and a world of value. Aromas of spice, currants, toast and cigar box presage a river of bramble berry, black cherry and spice washing over the palate, infusing the lengthy lip-smacking finish. Medium bodied with silky-smooth mouth feel, the aftertaste layers on spiced dark plum and oodles of fruity flavour. Sips well on its own and pours well with grilled steaks, lasagne or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Ghost Pines Chardonnay 2010
Sonoma/Monterrey/Napa, California $19.95 (308122) 13.5% alcohol
This regional blend opens with perfumed aromas of hazelnut, toasty notes and tropical fruit—pineapple and melon to the fore. It dishes up a delectable tapestry of succulent, white peach and tropical fruit embroidered by cinnamon, nutmeg and tangy, citrus acidity. It’s well balanced, medium bodied with silky-smooth mouth feel and a lingering aftertaste wreathed in charm and complexity. Good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Konzelmann Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (200535) 13.0% alcohol
Enjoy the lovely aromas of sweet stone and orchard fruit touched by an elusive spiced note. Dry, on the light side of medium bodied, this is a clean, crisp wine with a fine backbone of acidity supporting a smooth, round texture offering tasty flavours of pear, nectarine and apple. There’s a touch of white pepper extending through the tangy, tasty finish. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Cabernet – Merlot 2009 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (454991) 12.5% alcohol 

This has really come around since last tasted. Wood smoke, cedar and toast aromas interweave with dark berry fruit and spice on the interesting nose. Good weight and mouth feel support a persistent wash of ripe bramble berry and notions of red cherry. Well-integrated oak, red and black cherry mingle with wisps of tannin and good moderating acidity on the finish. Their top red wasn’t produced in 2009 with that fruit making its way here. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Château des Charmes. (Vic Harradine) 

**** drink or cellar
Huff Estates ‘South Bay Vineyards’ Merlot 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 13.0% alcohol
An involved nose of spice-infused black plum, dark berry fruit, cedar and pipe tobacco presage a rich and luscious river of sweet, ripe mulberry and dark juicy cherry interwoven with notions of mineral/slate and sprigs of herbs and spice. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely structured while underpinned with a solid tannin presence. Tame with a two-hour aeration/decant pouring alongside a slab of rare roast beef au jus and root veggies or with two more years in bottle. Purchase for daily office or home delivery, no minimum, free delivery for a case of 12 or more (single wine or mixed) from Huff Estates. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Huff Estates ‘Cuvée Janine’ Sparkling Rosé 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 12.5% alcohol
100% Pinot Noir, it jumps from the glass with lifted aromas of cranberry, apple and leesy notes. It showers the palate with a profusion of bubbles carrying cherry cordial, cranberry and blood orange flavours infused with lively spice and good, moderating acidity. There’s deft balance and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Pairs well with prawn ceviche or pan-seared salmon. Purchase for daily office or home delivery, no minimum, free delivery for a case of 12 or more (single wine or mixed) from Huff Estates. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Two Glasses!
Konzelmann ‘Family Reserve’ Cabernet/Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $49.20 14.0% alcohol
Produced from hand-sorted fruit from low-yielding vines, this opaque, ruby beauty is round, mellow and complex, offering wonderful aromas of menthol, pipe tobacco, cedar, cocoa and rich, ripe dark fruit. A gold-medal winner at Intervin, it’s dry, full bodied with satin-like texture lusciously concentrating flavours of plum and blackberry garnished with notes of exotic spice, vanilla and dark chocolate. Subtly structured and harmonious, it finishes long and rich. In one word, say Vic and I, ‘Fabulous!’ Order by the case for delivery to your home or office from Konzelmann Estate Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

***** drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Two Glasses!
Konzelmann Gewürztraminer 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.20 (392357) 14.0% alcohol
Vic and I both loved this Alsatian-style gem. It’s perfumed and complex with aromas of cinnamon, rosewater, quince and jasmine rushing from the glass. Off dry, lusciously spicy, it blossoms on the palate, fruity and creamy with a lovely replay of quince jelly. Intensely flavourful with a long finish that offers a hint of pith, it’s impressive. Sip for pleasure or pair with slightly spicy foods. Order by the case for delivery to your home or office from Konzelmann Estate Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value! Two Glasses!
Konzelmann Pinot Grigio 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 14.5% alcohol
Susan loved this, as well. Honeyed pit fruit—yellow plum, white nectarine—interweave with tropical fruit aromas from this gorgeous, Pinot Grigio—close your eyes and you’re in Alsace with a delectable Grand Cru. It’s medium-full bodied and generously textured with a tsunami wave of ripe peach, honeyed yellow plum, and Meyer lemon on the palate, persisting through the lingering finish. It’s balanced, bold and beautiful, full of charm and impressive flavour. Pour with soft, smelly cheese like Époisses or Stilton. Order by the case for delivery to your home or office from Konzelmann Estate Winery. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Konzelmann Sauvignon Blanc ‘Winemaster’s Collection Reserve’ 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 13.0% alcohol
Displaying an expressive nose, this offers aromas of citrus, tropical fruits, mineral and herbaceous notes. Just off dry and mid weight, the satiny texture wraps around flavours of crisp green apple, passion fruit and lemon marmalade. Well balanced and tangy, it finishes long, fresh and fruity. A great value that’ll pair well with chicken and pasta in cream sauce. Order by the case for delivery to your home or office from Konzelmann Estate Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Rosewood Estates ‘Mima’s Block’ Riesling 2011

VQA Twenty Mile Bench, $18.20 12.0% alcohol
Pale yellow-green, this first offering from Mima’s Block displays intriguing complexity of aromas—mineral, a whiff of sweet citrus, beeswax (you might have guessed!), floral notes and white peach. Just off dry, light-medium bodied, there’s elegant balance of delicious, ripe fruit and lively backbone of acidity. Notes of mineral, citrus, ginger and lemon marmalade mingle on the extended finish. Enjoy it now with corn and blueberry salad. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Rosewood Estates. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan