Winecurrent

January 29, 2013 Newsletter

Ontario Cuvée’s Grand Tasting at the Gala – Friday March 1, 2013

Ontario winemakers (Niagara, Prince Edward County, Pelee Island and Lake Erie’s North Shore) serve their favourite wines at Cuvée’s Grand Tasting at the Gala held at Niagara Fallsview Casino Resort celebrating their 25th anniversary. Ticket and event information can all be found on the Cuvée website… www.cuvee.ca.

National Capital Sommelier Guild Honours ‘Wine Person of the Year’

The NCSG honoured Mr. Dan Albas, MP for Okanagan–Coquihalla, as its 2012 ‘Wine Person of the Year’. It was announced and presented at the Guild’s annual gala dinner on January 19, 2013.  Mr. Albas introduced and was the driving force behind Private Members Bill C-311, passing unanimously in the House and Senate on June 28, 2012. The bill amended the Importation of Intoxicating Liquors Act and removed federal restrictions prohibiting Canadians moving wine purchased for personal use from one province to another. However, as MP Albas points out, the challenge has just begun. Read more…

California Wine Fair

The California Wine Fair visits 6 cities across Canada and venues are often sold out. Purchase tickets this Friday, February 1 - No tickets sold at the door.

  • Tuesday, April 2nd: Quebec City, Espace Dalhousie
  • Wednesday, April 3rd: Montreal, Quebec, Le Centre Sheraton
  • Friday, April 5th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa
  • Monday, April 8th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
  • Wednesday, April 10th: Calgary, Alberta, Hotel Arts
  • Thursday, May 2nd: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Pier 21

You can purchase tickets online at www.calwine.ca starting this Friday February 1, 2013 and have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

  • Closson Chase – this limited-production winery marches to their own beat, producing world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that showcase complexity, structure and beautiful lines without fanfare or gaudy promotion. A trio of just-released gems are found under the ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ section.
  • Fielding Estate – a family-owned and managed winery gathers steam, going from strength to strength. They produce a broad portfolio of consistently quality-value-driven wines. Curtis Fielding, reigning Grape King (awarded for viticulture excellence), and winemaker Richie Roberts never miss a step. They’ve eight wines after the release, all 4 to 5 stars!
  • Exceptional value wines – few wines meet the strict price/quality criteria; in this newsletter only six wines earned the Exceptional Value! – three in the Vintages Release, one in New in Vintages and two in New in the LCBO Portfolio
  • 5-stars – very few wines attain this ranking, in this newsletter only five—two under California: Red Wine, one in New in Vintages (Fielding Estate) and two under New in Ontario Wineries (Closson Chase).
  • Outside the box – stuck on the same handful of grape varieties/ regions/countries? Give one of these a try—a white Torrontés from Mendoza Argentina in the Signature Grape: Feature @ $13.95; a red ‘Ripasso’ from Veneto with a Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara blend under Italy: Red Wine @ $15.95 and a Viognier from Fielding Estate under New in Vintages, 5-stars @ 25.95.

This newsletter begins with reviews from the February 2, 2013 Vintages Release followed by wines in various categories including: future releases in Upstream, New in Vintages, New in the LCBO Portfolio and New in Ontario Wineries who’ll ship wines by the case to your door—+60 wines reviewed. 


You can access the LCBO store nearest you that has stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before the Saturday release date with some stores posting even before then. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should always closely reflect stock in stores, still, best to phone first.

Vintages Release: February 2, 2013

Feature: Signature Grapes

**** drink now
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2011 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (80234) 10.0% alcohol 

Hand picked, hand sorted, whole-bunch pressed and ten weeks on the lees, this impresses with an explosion of flavour and a memorable finale of sweet and tang—what’s not to like? Opening with a quiet nose of green apple and pear, it shifts into overdrive on the palate with a tidal wave of lemon citrus, green apple and nuances of slate. Mid weight with good mouth feel, it finishes in a blaze of off-dry, sweet and tang flavour pairing so well with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
La Crema Chardonnay 2010
Russian River Valley $37.95 (067231) 14.2% alcohol
Nutmeg, cinnamon and orchard fruit abound on the involved nose. It streams across the palate with gorgeous, silky texture and mid-full weight supporting topical fruit, lemon chiffon and key lime pie interlaced with streaks of vanilla flavour. It’s deftly balanced galvanizing into a delicious, Russian River Chard on the lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. Sip on its own or pour with slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Justin Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Paso Robles $33.95 (684308) 13.9% alcohol
Aromas of rich, dark berry fruit, vanilla and mocha drift freely from this delectable Cabernet. Riding medium-full-bodied, generously textured waves of flavour—black currant, black raspberry, dark, bittersweet chocolate—it offers a persistent, balanced and beautiful tasting experience. It finishes with good acidity and a solid tannin underpinning that’s easily tamed with a two-hour aeration/decant or further two-years in bottle; drink now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Familia Zuccardi ‘Organica’ Torrontés 2011
Mendoza $13.95 (232694) 13.0% alcohol
Torrontés is terrific, not the watery, insipid stuff we often see, but those with flavour, texture and character… like this impressive offering. Orchard and tropical fruit on the nose, it bathes the palate with creamy lemon yoghurt and tangy pineapple mingling with ripe, sweet, tropical fruit. It’s light on its feet with lovely mouth feel dishing up a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. It’s the perfect aperitif and versatile enough to pair with lightly seasoned sea food, veal or chicken—pick up more than one. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Zolo ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2008 

Mendoza $16.95 (81091) 14.0% alcohol 

Aged 14 months in French and American oak, this inky-purple gem is your go-to wine for the barbeque. Aromas of dark fruit, blackcurrant jam and sweet smoky spice rush from the glass. Dry and medium-full bodied, the perceptible tannin and fresh acidity balance rich ripe field berries and dark smoky toast. It’s full flavoured to the finish, where a hint of bittersweet chocolate lingers. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Santa Alicia ‘Gran Reserva de Los Andes’ Carmenère 2009
Maipo Valley $19.95 (093831) 14.0% alcohol
This is a hedonistic, crowd pleaser overflowing with fruit-forward flavour. Aromas of sweet vanilla and dark, ripe fruit mingle with toasty notes on the nose. Über ripe, jammy and concentrated, it’s laden with dense, dark, ripe fruit on the palate and lengthy aftertaste—mulberry, black briary berry and juicy Bing cherry. It’s mid-full bodied with plenty of texture, finishing the way it begins, rich, ripe and fruit laden. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Viña Tarapacá ‘Gran Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Maipo Valley $16.95 (018721) 14.5% alcohol
Wisps of wood smoke, mixed spice and oodles of dark, ripe fruit aromas, it coats the palate with jammy flavours of black currant and black cherry interwoven with kirsch liqueur and Asian spice. Fully textured with good weight, the flavours persist through the long, fruit-forward aftertaste. Pours exceptionally well alongside smoked, grilled ribs brushed with spicy, barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Hill-Smith Estate Chardonnay 2010
Eden Valley, South Australia $19.95 (361584) 13.0% alcohol
Fruit for this was sourced from the Barossa, cooler-climate, sub-region of Eden Valley. Aromas of ripe apple, nutmeg and wisps of toasty oak and vanilla herald a medium-bodied, voluptuously textured river of tropical fruit, crisp green apple and racy citrus acidity mingling with nutty and slate/mineral nuances across the palate. These replay on the long, lip-smacking finish. This is balanced with good concentration and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Coopers Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (957407) 13.5% alcohol

Nettles, savoury herbs and gooseberry aromas introduce this lively Kiwi gem. It wakes up the palate with a spirited river of tangy, lemon-lime sorbet, passion fruit and succulent white peach. It’s medium bodied, focused and finishes crisp, clean and refreshing in a blaze of zesty tang. Pour with pan-seared fish, prawns or scallops under a squish of freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Graham Beck ‘Bowed Head’ Chenin Blanc 2010
WO Paarl $18.95 (231357) 13.5% alcohol
Most Chenin Blanc on our shelves is serviceable, not memorable, and under $10. This offers good value and a glimpse at what this grape can offer. Tropical fruit, zesty orange and piquant spice aromas on the nose, it bathes the palate with a nicely textured wash of tangy, juicy flavour—ripe pineapple, quince jelly and lemongrass interlaced with a salad bowl of tropical fruit. It finishes in a blaze of crisp, refreshing, lip-smacking pleasure. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Joy – Premium Cuvée’ Brut 2008 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 (310334) 12.5% alcohol 

Orchard fruit, leesy notes and wisps of floral on the nose, this unleashes fine-bead mousse with lemon yoghurt and key lime pie interlaced with crisp Granny Smith apple It’s made methode traditionelle from estate-grown Chardonnay left 30 months on the lees and wisely sealed with modified crown cap. Good mouth feel and a crisp, bracing finish wrap up this elegantly labeled and packaged bubbly. Food friendly, it pairs especially well with freshly shucked briny oysters or seafood in cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Peller Estates ‘Ice Cuvée’ Rosé

VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (113035) 12.0% alcohol

A lovely salmon pink, this versatile sparkler combines Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as the base wine with a dash of Cabernet Franc. It displays sweet, almost honeyed, red berry fruit on the nose. Just off-dry due to dosage with ice wine, it has a fine, light mousse and replays the lively berry flavours on the palate—think of sun-kissed, field-ripe strawberries and juicy, ripe currant. It’s refreshing with a hint of sweetness that lingers on the finish. This is bound to be a crowd-pleaser. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Foss Marai Prosecco Extra Dry 

DOC Prosecco $19.95 (729392) 11.5% alcohol 

A tempting nose of floral and citrussy notes tingle the nose and provide a fitting entry to this very well-priced sparkler. Nothing complicated, but everything is in balance, from the frothy attack of tropical fruit flavours and lemon zest to the lovely tang of acidity on the finish. Serve well chilled to guests as a welcoming wine. (Vic Harradine)

Niagara Peninsula: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Norman Hardie Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35.00 (184432) 11.9% alcohol
The lifted aromas deliver nutmeg, espresso roast and vanilla with wisps of minerality and wet stone. Luscious and expressive on the palate, there’s a profusion of flavour with crisp green apple, ripe pear and sweet vanilla to the fore. It’s nicely textured and mid weight with a lingering aftertaste dominated by orchard fruit, nutty nuances and terrific, lip-smacking acidity interwoven with wisps of toast and streaks of slate. An impressive wine bettered after time knits it together. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (089029) 10.0% alcohol 

Clean and clear, this wine beckons with fragrant aromas of orchard fruit, lime, white flowers and a hint of mineral. Just off-dry yet fresh on the palate, there’s lemon-lime and green apple to the fore, the mineral note lingering on a long fresh finish. Serve it with spicy chicken or pork dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Niagara Peninsula: Rosé Wine

**** drink now
Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (172643) 12.5% alcohol 

Charming salmon pink, this perennial favourite is produced from a blend of Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gamay. An appealing fresh, floral note and cherry/berry aromas rush from the glass. Dry, medium bodied, deftly balanced, it’s clean, fruity and lively on the palate, the red fruit and juicy texture offering a delightfully tasty, crisp and flavourful finish. Sip away. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

***** cellar
Chappelet ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Napa Valley $68.95 (704254) 14.9% alcohol
This was tough to spit. Lifted, spirited aromas abound with sandalwood, sweet vanilla and dark, juicy cherry interweaving with oak and toasty notes. Rich, ripe, dark, berry fruit—racy black currant and mulberry—spill over the palate mingling with black plum compote and cassis. It’s medium-full weight with silky, smooth mouth feel while the lingering finish galvanizes acidity, fruit and still-resolving tannin into a balanced and beautiful aftertaste. An elegant, refined red that’s good value, drink 2015-2022. (Vic Harradine)

***** cellar
Dominus 2009
Napa Valley $151.95 (212381) 14.5% alcohol
Complex and structured, it’s impressive from cork pop to last drop—perfumed aromas of rose petals, spice, black licorice and earthy notes abound. It’s rich, complex and beautifully structured with flavours of cassis, briary berry and spiced black cherry spilling over the palate in waves. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and oodles of charm. The lengthy finish of still-resolving tannin dominates the delectable fruit, demanding further time in bottle; drink 2016-2025. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Rodney Strong Merlot 2008 

Sonoma County, California $21.95 (497933) 13.5% alcohol 

Exotic spice and black plum aromas on the nose, the palate’s bathed in endless waves of rich, silky-smooth cassis, kirsch liqueur and blueberry interwoven with roasted herbs and mocha. It’s mid weight with a lengthy, balanced, aftertaste of briary berry and juicy black cherry underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. Pour now with slow-roasted pork or rare-grilled skirt steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Sonoma County $19.95 (640573) 13.5% alcohol
Robust aromas of espresso roast, cola and dark, mixed field berry rip from the nose of this brimming-with-charm gem. It’s medium bodied and smooth as satin on the palate dishing up a balanced wash of milk chocolate, ripe, sweet mulberry and lively red cherry. The finish is lingering and lip-smacking good. Pair with tangine-cooked beef short ribs or marinated hangar steak. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Lamadrid ‘Single Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $14.95 (234518) 14.4% alcohol
Pipe tobacco, cola and exotic spice aromas herald a wash of complex flavour bathing the palate—cherry clafoutie, cassis and ripe blueberry interlaced with excellent moderating acidity and fine-grained tannin adding structure and interest. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a vibrant, lengthy aftertaste that’s fruit-laden, value-packed and brimming with balance and oodles of charm. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Emiliana Novas ‘Gran Reserva’ Carmenère/Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Colchagua Valley $15.95 (066746) 14.0% alcohol
The lifted nose fills the air with cocoa, dark coffee and sprigs of spice and herbs presaging a rich, complex river of juicy, dark cherry, tangy black currant and bittersweet chocolate bathing the palate, infusing the lingering, well-balanced aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied, nicely textured and great value. Pick up a few pouring with all manner of grilled or roasted red meat, roast chicken or fowl. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Barossa Valley Estate ‘Ebenezer’ Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $40.95 (971705) 14.5% alcohol
Winemaker extraordinaire, Stuart Bourne, accesses many lots of the best Shiraz in the Barossa for his E&E Black Pepper Shiraz—much of it also finds its way to Ebenezer. Savoury herbs, black pepper and dried currant on the nose, it coats the palate with structured and balanced, ripe, sweet mulberry, black plum compote interlaced with espresso roast and dark chocolate. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and elegantly defined. Aerate/decant for two hours or tuck away for drinking 2014-2019. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Best’s ‘Great Western Bin No. 1’ Shiraz 2010
Great Western, Victoria $24.95 (222323) 14.5% alcohol
Full, bodied, thick and rich on the palate—aromas of roasted herbs, peppery notes and concentrated, dark, ripe fruit stream from the nose. Palate-coating, sweet, ripe fruit flavours—mulberry jam, cherry and spice-infused black plum compote persist through the lengthy aftertaste. It’s fully textured, round and smooth; a hedonist’s delight, not for the faint of heart. Dense and concentrated, will find many admirers. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chapel Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
McLaren Vale, South Australia $25.95 (965830) 14.5% alcohol
Cola, tobacco and stewed fruit aromas presage a river of rich, robust, fruit flavour—black currant, dark, juicy cherry and blueberry—interwoven with fennel and espresso roast. It’s value-packed and bathes the palate with structure and charm. Medium bodied with good mouth feel and deft balance, the aftertaste has moderating acidity and supple tannin melding in nicely. The end result is each sip as good, or better, than the previous. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Chateau Tanunda ‘Barossa Tower’ Shiraz 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $18.95 (289983) 14.5% alcohol
Rich, sweet fruit aromas dominate the nose with mixed, field berry and dark cherry to the fore. Jammy, black briary berry and sweet Bing cherry coat the palate interwoven with spice and roasted herbs. It’s mid-weight with silky texture and a finish of dark, ripe fruit garnished with piquant spice and a fine-grained tannin underpinning. Pour now with slow-roasted pork slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz/Cabernet 2010
Padthaway, South Australia $16.95 (186114) 14.5% alcohol
Asian spice, cedar and lively red cherry aromas herald a surge of black bramble berry and kirsch liqueur adorned with sharp spice, good moderating acidity and fine-grained tannin, all balanced on a pin. The lengthy, vibrant, lip-smacking finish layers on notes of anise and fennel mingling with smoky/toasty bits. It’s a Shiraz/Cab blend that’s solid value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Yalumba ‘The Strapper’ GSM 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (295873) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of roasted herbs, graphite and cherry/berry fruit abound in this GSM—Grenache, Shiraz and Mataró aka Monastrell, aka Mourvèdre. It’s tangy, juicy and fruit-laden—red cherry, black plum and red currant sail across the palate with lively acidity in tow. It’s mid-full weight with decent texture and more than its fair share of structure and charm. Fleshing out on the aftertaste, it layers on cassis and darker, riper fruit providing a lovely tasting treat that’s balanced, delicious and good value. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Studert-Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2008
Prädikatswein $16.95 (970129) 7.5 % alcohol
Aromas of minerality, slate and whiffs of diesel provide segue to a rich, luscious river of off-dry flavour bathing the palate with succulent white peach, lychee and spice-laden, Mirabelle plum. This is mid weight with lovely mouth feel and stunning aftertaste of sweet and tang that’s lingering and lip-smacking good—ripe pit fruit juxtaposed with lemony tang. It’s the perfect foil to spicy Asian cuisine. Pick up 3, tasting one now, another 2016 and again in 2019, experiencing the evolution of well-made, Mosel Riesling. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink now
Pelassa ‘Bricco Enrichetta’ Langhe 2011

DOC Langhe, Italy $16.95 14.0% alcohol

Aromas of mixed spice, lilac and dark, mixed field berry open this approachable red blend—an even split between Barbera and Nebbiolo. It makes a balanced, soft landing on the palate with a smooth and mellow wash of racy, lip-smacking red cherry mingling with sweet, ripe briary berry. Mid weight and silky smooth, it finishes in a blaze of mouth-watering zing and tang. Perfect as an aperitif to get the gustatory juices active, it also pairs well with pasta in tomato sauce, pizza or seafood/chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Tenimenti Angelini Val Di Suga Brunello Di Montalcino 2007
BOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $49.95 (713719) 14.5% alcohol
Earthy tones, cola, sandalwood and ripe, dark cherry/berry aromas abound. Hi-toned mulberry, briary berry and juicy, Bing cherry bathe the palate mingling with notions of tar and graphite. It’s structured, balanced and brimming with charm. Medium-full bodied and generously textured, the lengthy aftertaste is garnished with fine-grained, still-resolving tannin, excellent acidity and a solid core of dark, ripe and juicy fruit flavour infused with fennel and peppery notes. Drink now, after a three-hour aeration/decant, and safely pour to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Storia Antico ‘Ripasso’ Valpolicella 2010
DOC Valpolicella $15.95 (273672) 14.0% alcohol
Expressive aromas of savoury herbs, leather and currants herald a juicy, tangy river of black currant and dark cherry garnished with bittersweet chocolate and mixed spice on the palate. It’s medium bodied with terrific balance throughout along with silky-smooth mouth feel and an impressive finish. The aftertaste is brimming with gamy bits and tangy, ripe cherry adorned with a ripe tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant two hours and pick up a few for easy drinking until 2016. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Villa Girardi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2008
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $41.95 (159913) 15.0% alcohol
A lovely and lifted nose—spice cake, figs and dried fruit—presage a rich, ripe and robust Amarone bursting with flavour, brimming with charm. Involved and complex on the palate—briary berry and black plum compote mingle with raisin tart and espresso roast in endless waves. It’s medium-full bodied with fleshy texture and a memorable finish of dark, ripe berry fruit and bittersweet chocolate. Pour with osso bucco or roast leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Aneto Red 2009
DOC Douro $19.95 (314930) 14.5% alcohol
A seriously good blend of premium, hand-harvested, low-yield Port grapes—30% Touriga Nacional; 30% Touriga Franca; 30% Tinta Roriz; 10% Tinto Cão. This is tangy and juicy throughout with an alluring nose of rose petals, incense and earthiness. Lively flavours stream across the palate with bramble berry, licorice and desiccated, dark fruit to the fore. There’s oodles of texture, flavour and a lingering, balanced finish with good acidity and supple tannin. Pick up a few; drink now to 2017—very good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Quinta Da Ponte Pedrinha 2008
DOC Dão $14.95 (219188) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of leather, cassis and floral notes presage a smooth and mellow stream of palate-coating flavour with sweet, black plum, red and dark cherry and mocha. It’s mid weight with very good mouth feel and a lick of tannin on the lengthy aftertaste. Aerate/decant three hours before pouring alongside grilled steak or ribs. The price-quality balance tips in your favour; consider a multiple purchase. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Ares Crianza 2008
DOCa Rioja $16.95 (305912) 14.0% alcohol
Cola, spice and bowls of dark berry fruit on the nose, this is full bodied with lovely mouth feel, excellent balance and boatloads of red fruit flavour—cherry and cranberry mingling with sprigs of herbs and spiced black plum. It finishes with everything on board—good acidity, ripe tannin and tangy, red and dark fruit. Lovely sipped on its own, it also pours perfectly with shrimp-chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beronia ‘Reserva’ 2008
DOCa Rioja $18.95 (050203) 14.0% alcohol
Hi-toned aromas of piquant spice, lively, red berry fruit and mixed spice dominate the nose. Fresh and spirited sour cherry and dark briary berry interlace with sprigs of herb, dark chocolate and espresso roast on the fully textured river of balanced flavour bathing the palate. It’s medium bodied, nicely structured and well defined with a complex and lip-smacking aftertaste. Good to go now with lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent:

Vintages, Classics Catalogue - June 2013


****1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse Winery ‘Van Ber’s Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2009 

VQA Creek Shores $49.95 13.0% alcohol 
Leather, tobacco, roasted herbs and toasty bits on the nose, it bathes the palate with a delectable river of briary berry, dark cherry and blueberry interlaced with mixed spice, cassis and tangy red berry fruit. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with good structure and balance, all from fruit in a challenging vintage transformed by the delicate touch of impeccable winemaking—kudos to Paul Pender. It finishes dry, lengthy and lip-smacking good—optimum drinking 2015 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages, Classics Catalogue - October 2013

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse Winery ‘David’s Block Vineyard’ Merlot 2010 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $49.95 13.5% alcohol 
This was sourced from organic/biodynamic fruit. Toasty oak and black berry fruit on the nose, it dishes up a dazzling wash of delectable black plum, chocolate-covered, black Bing cherry and sweet, ripe bramble berry. It’s medium-full weight with generous mouth feel and wonderful acidity throughout. The balanced finish layers on ripe, dark berry fruit wreathed in spice and savoury bits. The perceptible tannin and wisps of oak are tamed with a three-hour aeration/decant or popping the cork 2014 and on. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Spirits: Liqueur

**** drink or cellar
Luxardo Excelsior Maraschino Liqueur
Product of Italy $25.95 (57448) 32.0% alcohol
Family-owned and managed since 1821, there are few more-recognizable labels or bottles—the latter wrapped in ‘raffia’—on LCBO shelves. Distilled from Marasca (sour) cherries, it’s clear in the glass, sharp and distinctive on the nose with intense red cherry, spice, white pepper and notions of nuttiness. This is warm, smooth, sweet and delicious on the palate with concentrated sweet cherry dominant throughout. It’s used in classic cocktail recipes and über delicious over fresh, fruit salad. (Vic Harradine)

Table Wine

**** drink now
Anselmi ‘San Vincenzo’ 2011
IGT Veneto, Italy $14.95 (948158) 13.0% alcohol
Primarily Garganega, this is a Vintages Essentials wine, always available in select stores. Honeyed pit fruit, spice and ripe apple one nose, it bathes the palate with a balanced and beautiful, brimming-with-flavour river of white succulent peach, tangy citrus and banana yoghurt. It’s mid bodied with a silky-smooth texture and a long, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour on its own or with roast chicken or pan-seared white fish or white pizza. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Boasso ‘Meriame’ Dolcetta d’Alba 2011
DOC Dolcetta d’Alba, Italy $15.95 (303461) 13.5% alcohol
Tobacco, roasted herbs mingling with black cherry and plum aromas herald a lively splash of sour cherry and tangy red berry fruit infused with spice and savoury herbs. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a drying aftertaste. Pour alongside pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden red pizza. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château de Monturon Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2010
AOC St-Émilion Grand Cru, France $23.95 (171017) 13.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this is a blend of Merlot and Cabernets. Enjoy the lovely rich aromas of sweet, spiced vanilla, red and black fruit, cedar and caramel. Dry, mid-full weight, it’s showcasing delicious flavours of cocoa, black cherries and plum merging with delicate nuances of pepper, herbs and spice. Exhibiting a lovely velvety texture, the ripe tannins, refined oak and refreshing acidity create a wine of balance and lasting toasty flavour. Serve with braised chicken thighs. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Fattoria di Piazzano ‘Rio Camerata Riserva’ Chianti 2006
DOCG Chianti, Italy $24.95 (301929) 13.5% alcohol
Showing age on the orange-hued rim, there’s a lovely bouquet of rose petals, leather and sandalwood interwoven with rich, black plum compote. It’s medium bodied and silky smooth on the palate with a profusion of tangy flavour—dark berry fruit, roasted herbs and charred toast. It finishes dry and lengthy with notions of red berry fruit and blueberry garnished with cherry and menthol. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Tabalí ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
DO Maipo Valley, Chile $ 14.95 (58446) 14.0% alcohol
Inky purple, the grapes were hand picked, the wine aged 10 months in French oak. Herbal, earthy notes waft from the glass intermingling with aromas of rich, dark fruit and hints of cedar and vanilla. Dry, full bodied, quite round yet firm, the dark fruit is rich and concentrated, notes of toasty oak, dark chocolate and pepper adding interest and complexity. The flavours bathe the palate and linger on the finish garnished with a tangy note of coffee bean. Serve with grilled meats and root vegetables. Good value. (Susan Desjardins)

There are still a few bottles of this Viognier in Vintages—go figure! It’s also available by the case or mixed case, for daily home or office delivery from Fielding.

***** drink now Exceptional Value!
Fielding Estate Viognier 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.95 (142323) 13.5% alcohol 

Awarded ‘Best Viognier’ at Cuvée 2012. Alluring aromas of nectarine, sweet spring flowers and spiced poached pear provide segue to a creamy-textured explosion of palate-coating flavours. This is concentrated and brimming with depth and complexity; honey-infused musk melon, apple crumble and marzipan run rampant over the palate and lingering aftertaste. Amidst this array of texture and charm, there’s balance and a refreshing finish. Winemaking wizard, Richie Roberts, waves his magic wand. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Spirits: Liqueur

**** drink or cellar
Luxardo dei Cesari Sambuca Liqueur
Product of Italy $19.95 (40196) 38.0% alcohol
Seeds of star anise fruit are steam distilled to make a number of licorice-tasting liqueurs—Sambuca, Ouzo, Raki, Pastis. Sambuca is unmistakenly black licorice on the nose. It coats the palate with a glorious surge of concentrated, warm, sweet, black licorice mingling with berry fruit on the aftertaste. Drink frozen (think vodka), drink flaming (think 3 coffee beans) or toss neat (bottoms up). It’s also popular in classic cocktail recipes readily found on the net. (Vic Harradine)

Table Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
BBQ Barbera 2011
DOC Piemonte, Italy $9.95 (234864) 13.5% alcohol
5 bonus blue Air Miles Feb 3 – Mar 2. Floral notes, roasted herbs and rich, ripe, dark berry fruit aromas presage a tangy, racy wash of sour cherry and blueberry interlaced with drying tannin and a solid line of acidity. It’s mid weight with good texture and a lengthy, drying aftertaste wreathed in savoury herbs and still-resolving tannin. A two-hour aeration/decant and poured with grilled, rare steak will tame it down nicely. If you can wait, pour 2014 and on. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Fielding Estate Riesling 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (146761) 10.5% alcohol 

Brimming with alluring aromas, balance and lip-smacking flavour, this was tough to spit. Aromas of nectarine, apple and pear interweave with mineral notes on the nose then rocket across the palate with a gusher of spice-infused Granny Smith apple, pear and bracing lemon-lime. It’s mid weight and nicely textured finishing in a blaze of mouth-watering, just-off-dry, sweet and tang. Great value here. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Fielding Estate ‘Red Conception’ 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (189183) 12.5% alcohol 
This unique red blend—primarily Merlot with Cab Sauv, Pinot Noir and Syrah—wafts from the glass with aromas of exotic spice, black plum and tobacco. Mid weight with good mouth feel, it dishes up a tangy river of sour cherry, briary berry and roasted herbs. The aftertaste delivers fruit-laden cherry/berry flavour mingling with savoury herbs underpinned by fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Konzelmann Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (112946) 12.5% alcohol 

Dill weed, roasted herbs and red berry fruit aromas waft from this mid-weight, mid-textured red. Tangy, crisp and lively, it showers the palate with sprigs of savory herbs interlaced with sour cherry and red plum. The aftertaste is dry and tangy with wisps of tannin and tobacco. Good to go now with spaghetti Bolognese decked with spicy Italian sausage. (Vic Harradine) 


***1/2 drink now
Konzelmann Merlot 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (439281) 12.5% alcohol 

Light-ruby hued, aromas of spiced berry fruit and black plum intro a light-on-its-feet wash of charred wood smoke interwoven with Montmorency cherry and red currant. It’s lightly textured with good balance and tangy moderating acidity and racy red fruit—cranberry and pomegranate—on the dry, crisp finish. Good to go now with pasta in tomato sauce or meat-layered pizza. (Vic Harradine) 


**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Konzelmann Pinot Blanc 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.15 (219279) 12.5% alcohol 

Floral, citrus and honeyed pit fruit aromas on the nose, this gorgeously textured gem is off-dry and beautifully balanced throughout. Succulent white peach, crisp Granny Smith apple and ripe pineapple interlace with tangy lemon on the palate and the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. The perfect aperitif or welcoming wine, it pours well with chicken or veal in Madeira sauce. (Vic Harradine) 


**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Konzelmann Riesling 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (200501) 11.5% alcohol 

Ripe tropical fruit, lemongrass and zesty pineapple aromas precede a racy river of lemon-lime, white grapefruit and oodles of crisp Granny Smith apple bathing the palate infusing the refreshing, lengthy aftertaste. This is mid weight with good mouth feel brimming with excellent acidity and a boatload of charm. Balanced and beautiful, sip on its own or pour with pan-fried seafood or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Konzelmann ‘Canada Red’ Zweigelt-Merlot 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (125260) 13.0% alcohol 

Dark berry and spice aromas provide segue to a sweet, silky-smooth river of black currant and raspberry washing over the palate in waves interwoven with earthiness and toasty notes. It’s mid weight and nicely textured throughout dishing up a rustic aftertaste of tangy berry fruit, spice-infused black plum and tobacco. Good to go now with grilled meat, burgers or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine) 


***1/2 drink now
Konzelmann ‘Canada White’ Riesling 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (125278) 11.5% alcohol 

Honeyed pit fruit and floral notes on the nose, it sports a slightly off-dry wash of lime zest, ripe pineapple and lemon rind flowing over the palate echoing on the lingering racy finish. It’s mid weight with generous mouth feel and hints of spiced yellow plum on the aftertaste. Pours well on its own or alongside spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Thorn-Clarke ‘Terra Barossa’ Merlot
Barossa Valley, Australia $15.95 (218826) 14.0% alcohol
5 bonus blue Air Miles Feb 3 – Mar 2. Boysenberry, charry wood smoke and spice box aromas herald a luscious river of tangy, juicy black cherry, ripe mulberry and cassis on the palate. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and brimming with balanced fruit flavour. It finishes drying, garnished with savoury herbs and is lip-smackingly racy. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

***** cellar
Closson Chase ‘S. Kocsis Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Beamsville Bench $34.95 13.5% alcohol
This is low-yielding, hand-harvested fruit from a single vineyard, fermented with indigenous yeast then aged 16 months in French oak – 10% new with 200 cases produced. Cinnamon, lanolin and quince jelly aromas gradually give way to honeyed pit fruit and toasty oak as it opens in the glass. It bathes the palate with stunning complexity and riveting, structured flavours—ripe apple, succulent white peach and tropical fruit garnished with honeyed notes and exotic spice. It’s mid-full weight with silken texture and a glorious aftertaste that’s in need of additional bottle age. A patient two-year wait, while the oak, fruit and acidity knits together, will be handsomely rewarded. (Vic Harradine)

***** cellar
Closson Chase ‘Iconoclast’ Chardonnay 2010
Product of Canada $69.95 13.5% alcohol
Low yielding, hand harvested and produced rarely, this was sourced from a single vineyard on the Beamsville Bench, aged 17 months in seasoned barrels—only 2 barrels produced, bottled unfiltered. Distinctive tinges of green and a glorious, aromatic nose of grilled pineapple, caramel apple, toast and oak with sweet vanilla and exotic incense beguile. It caresses the palate with lime cordial and lemony tang interlaced with a delectable array of ripe, soft, pit fruit—white nectarine, yellow plum and peach. Still dominated by oak, the aftertaste is monumental and lengthy with overlays of minerality, ripe citrus and green apple, finishing clean, crisp and refreshing. Demanding time in bottle, try popping a cork in 2016. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Closson Chase ‘K. J. Watson Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Niagara River $39.95 12.6% alcohol
This is low yield and hand harvested from a single vineyard, fermented with indigenous yeast then aged 18 months in French oak with only 10% new and limited production. Piquant spice, oaky notes, red cherry, rhubarb and strawberry aromas provide segue for an über, spice-laden river of lively strawberry, racy red raspberry and rich, luscious, sugared red plum. Sporting a well-delineated flavour profile, good structure and complexity throughout, it delivers good mouth feel, mid weight and a lip-smacking finish garnished with beetroot, blood orange, plenty of oak and still-resolving tannin that a two-hour aeration decant will help tame. Enjoyable now after a two-hour aeration/decant, better poured 2014 and on with smoked, grilled duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

Order a case, or mixed case, of the following wines for daily home or office delivery from Fielding.

**** drink now
Fielding Estate ‘Traditional Method Sparkling’ Brut Non-vintage 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 12.0% alcohol 

This Chardonnay/Pinot Noir blend showcases racy flavours and a crisp, clean, refreshing finish. Their initial bottling, so although it’s labeled non- vintage, all grapes were picked 2009. Leesy, citrus and toasty on the nose, it delivers a vigorous mousse infused with tangy flavours of lemon and orchard fruit on the palate. It finishes in a blaze of bracing, lip-smacking lemon zest. An impeccable bubbly to begin any party or meal, it’s perfectly paired with an appetizer of seafood, particularly pan-seared scallops. (Vic Harradine) 

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fielding Estate Cabernet-Merlot 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 13.5% alcohol 
Mocha, espresso roast and oodles of dark berry fruit aromas on the nose, it settles on the palate with a solid core of delectable, structured and balanced flavour with red cherry, ripe mulberry and plenty of charm. It’s medium-full bodied with generous texture and solid tannin underpinning throughout. The finish lingers. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with grilled beef steak, better uncorked 2014 and on. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Fielding Estate Chardonnay 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 12.5% alcohol 
Aromas of exotic spice, warm, sweet vanilla and hazelnuts mingle with poached pear and toffee apple. Medium-full bodied with über-generous texture—kept and stirred on lees with full malolactic conversion—the flavours coat the palate; balanced and charming. It finishes in a blaze, concentrated, nicely structured with orchard fruit, wisps of oak from eight-months aging and good citrus acidity, cleaning up crisp and lip-smacking good. A top-notch Chard, worth every cent. Terrific now, even better with a tad more age. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Fielding Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2012 

VQA Beamsville Bench $18.95 13.0% alcohol 
Fresh, lively and crisp from the get-go, aromas of lemon chiffon pie and lime yoghurt herald a racy, tangy wash of lime cordial and white grapefruit. It’s mid weight with excellent mouth feel—left on its lees 2 months in seasoned French oak—sporting a crisp, refreshing, zesty aftertaste. Pour with prawn ceviche or pan-seared seafood. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Fielding Estate Syrah 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (203153) 14.0% alcohol 
Inky purple-black in the glass, it delivers a mellow nose of black plum compote, black pepper and dark, ripe berry fruit. It bathes the palate with a spirited wash of spice-laden black cherry, piquant spice and sharp field berry interwoven with resolving tannin and racy acidity. It finishes in a blaze of red berry fruit and tangy flavour. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

 

New in Private Order

Order the following by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.


****1/2drink now
Costa Farnel Valdobbiadene Prosecco ‘Superiore Extra Dry’ Non vintage
DOCG Valdobbiadene $24.95 11.0% alcohol
Ethereal, almost transparent, this airy sparkling wine is showing traces of mineral, subtle notions of pear, stone fruit and clean citrus notes. Fresh on the attack, it matches a satiny texture to the lively, decisive spine of acidity. It finishes long, tangy, yet sweetly fruity. (Susan Desjardins)


****1/2drink now
Costa Farnel Prosecco Non vintage
DOC Prosecco $20.50 11.5% alcohol
Pale straw, characterized by a fine, persistent, mouth-filling mousse, this is a refined wine, offering sweet fruit, citrus and floral aromas. Creamy, with a lively refreshing texture, the tasty flavours of peach, lime and orange ride a fine seam of clean acidity to a delicious fruit-filled finish—and the mousse still lingers! Sip for the pleasure. (Susan Desjardins)


***1/2drink now
Costa Farnel Fior ‘d’Arancio’ Spumante Dolce Non vintage
DOC Colli Euganei $19.95 6.0% alcohol
Characterized by concentrated aromas and flavours, this wine is for those who desire an intensely sweet and fruity treat. Aromas of orange blossom, marmalade, candied fruit and citrus zest burst from the glass. Creamy with an almost honeyed texture, flavours of candied orange and lemon pie filling mingle on the palate carried to the finish by the fine persistent effervescence. Serve with sponge cake and fresh fruit. (Susan Desjardins)


***1/2drink now
La Canosa Spumante Brut Non vintage
Italy $21.50 12.0% alcohol
This sparkler splashes into the glass with an ephemeral flourish. Showcasing floral aromas, tangy apple, pear and a whiff of citrus, it’s dry and crisp on the palate, grapefruit, lemon, green apple and mineral flavours carrying through the mid-length finish. It’s a party starter. (Susan Desjardins)


***drink now
La Canosa Spumante Brut Rosé Non vintage
Italy $21.50 12.0% alcohol
Blood orange and stewed plum on the nose, this Sangiovese-based, spritzy rosé races across the palate with red cherry/berry fruit and racy acidity. It’s tangy and juicy on the finish with red grapefruit and sour cherry keeping it crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)


****drink or cellar
Kuehn Riesling ‘Grand Cru Kaefferkopf’ 2010
AOC Alsace $21.50 12.5% alcohol
Pale gold, this wine displays subtle floral and mineral aromas, notes of pear, lime zest and a whiff of pithy citrus. Dry, mid-weight, a touch of orchard fruit is followed by an explosion of white grapefruit and fresh lemon, framed by racy acidity and underlying mineral notes that persist through a lengthy, mouth-cleansing finish. Serve now with fish, Coquille St-Jacques, or let the wine evolve over 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)


****drink or cellar
La Canosa ‘Nullius’ Rosso 2009
IGT Marche $24.95 13.5% alcohol
This 100% Sangiovese opens with intriguing dusty notes, dark fruit, cocoa and spiced vanilla tantalizing the nose. On the palate, there’s great balance of fine-grained tannins, fresh acidity and ripe, spiced red fruit—a touch of mocha and a hint of leather add complexity. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine presents a satin-like texture and a lively clean finish. Serve with meat-based pasta dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan