January 17, 2013 Newsletter

Punch these dates in your calendar—the California Wine Fair visits cities in Canada

• Tuesday, April 2nd: Quebec City, Espace Dalhousie
• Wednesday, April 3rd: Montreal, Quebec, Le Centre Sheraton
• Friday, April 5th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa
• Monday, April 8th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
• Wednesday, April 10th: Calgary, Alberta, Hotel Arts
• Thursday, May 2nd: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Pier 21

You can purchase tickets online at www.calwine.ca starting February 1, 2013 and have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675). 


Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Outside the box – The name of the white grape is Godello and Susan unearthed this gem that earned a at 4 stars and $13.95 in the Spain Feature.
• Tawse Winery – With a 3-peat as Canada’s Winery of the Year and winemaker, Paul Pender, winning Winemaker of the Year in 2011, they’re at the top of their game—5 wines reviewed after the Main Release earned three 5-star ratings and two at 4½ stars.
• Exceptional value wines – eight of the 50-plus wines earned the icon, five in the Main Release and three following—one a stunning Pinot Noir from NZ.
• New in Consignment and Private Order – For information on Consignment wines… click here. Private Order wines are similar, but take a little longer for delivery. There are a number reviewed following the Main Release

This newsletter begins with reviews from the January 19, 2013 Vintages Release. There are quite a number of good-value wines offered. Those are followed by wines in various categories including newly released wines in Vintages, Vintages Online Exclusives, New in Ontario Wineries and from wine agents who’ll ship wines to your door—over 50 wines reviewed.


You can access the LCBO store nearest you that has stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before the Saturday release date with some stores posting even before then. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should always closely reflect stock in stores, still, best to phone first.   

Spain Feature

Señorio de Rubios Albariño 2011
DO Rias Baixas $17.95 (314427) 12.5% alcohol
Pale gold, this fresh wine entices with clean floral, citrus and stone fruit aromas. Dry, light-mid weight, a stream of clean acidity and a mineral nuance underpin citrus, ripe peach and apricot. Just delightful, it finishes crisp and bright. Seafood of any type would be a perfect match. (Susan Desjardins)


Alvarez de Toledo Godello 2010
DO Bierzo $13.95 (308049) 12.4% alcohol
Godello, an indigenous Spanish grape grown successfully in Valdeorras and Bierzo, is now turning heads. From an estate established in the XVth century, this straw-hued wine offers richness and complexity of aromas and flavours. On the nose, there’s a touch of slate, apple, ripe citrus and floral notes. Dry, mid-weight, it beguiles with a round, ripe texture, lightly spiced peach and citrus riding a wave of fresh acidity through a flavourful, fruity finish. Enjoy now and store a few bottles for short-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)


Virgen del Águila ‘Artigazo’ 2007
DO Cariñena $18.95 (292102) 14.5% alcohol
A blend of Garnacha, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon aged 18 months in oak, this inky wine has truly enticing aromas of smoke, dried herbs and exotic spice wafting over rich black fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, perceptible tannins and clean acidity balance red and black berries layered with notes of toasty oak, vanilla, sweet spice and herbs. Displaying great structure and concentration, the wine delivers an extended dry yet fruity finish. Serve with substantial meat dishes or cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)


Don Jacobo ‘Reserva’ 2004
DOCa Rioja $17.95 (313270) 13.5% alcohol
Ruby in the glass, this deftly crafted, substantial wine has ripe, appealing, red fruit aromas mingling with scents of cedar, cocoa, herbs and spice. Dry, mid-full weight, there’s depth of fruit—plums and berries—matched to ripe tannins and a fresh texture. A touch of smoky oak and spice graces the lasting, crisp finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Borsao ‘Tres Picos’ Garnacha 2010
DO Campo de Borja $19.95 (273748) 14.5% alcohol
Produced from low yielding old vines, the inky dense color of the wine portends the weight and substance in the glass. First the sweet aromas—vanilla, cedar, leather, spice and berries ripe to bursting. Dry, velvety and full bodied, this wine delivers a mouthful of juicy, ripe fruit garnished with exotic spice, dried herbs and subtle oak. Soft, ripe tannins underpin the fruit, the richness of the flavours persisting through the lengthy finish. A great value to enjoy now or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)


Luzón ‘Selección 12 Meses’ Crianza 2008
DO Jumilla $15.95 (310219) 14.5% alcohol
Aged in French and American oak, this blend of Monastrell, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot has a smoky, earthy, cherry/berry nose. Dry, medium-full bodied, the flavours are of balsamic, black cherry and berry, spice and earth. Smooth in texture with ripe tannins, it’s fresh and sweetly fruity through the lasting finish. Enjoy now or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley Feature

Gray Monk Gewürztraminer 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (321588) 12.6% alcohol
Brilliant pale-gold, this wine is fragrant with floral notes, lychee, stone fruit, citrus and spice. Off dry, lusciously fruity, the tropical and stone fruit aromas replay on the palate, the spice extending through the fruit-filled, delicately pithy finish. This pioneering Okanagan winery once again delivers a sumptuous wine to pair with lightly spiced dishes. (Susan Desjardins)


Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley $20.95 (377770) 13.5% alcohol
Pale gold, this creamy Chardonnay offers aromas of golden apple, baked butter pastry and citrus. Dry, suave and smooth, the buttery texture is married to lively acidity. Flavours of Honeycrisp apple, nutty notes and cinnamon on honey toast delight through the finish. It shows great balance of freshness, oak and ripe fruit. (Susan Desjardins)


Mission Hill ‘Family Estate’ Quatrain 2008 

VQA Okanagan Valley $44.95 (218636) 13.5% alcohol 

This blend of Merlot, Syrah and the Cabernets is composed of parcels of the estate’s best south-Okanagan fruit, fermented separately, aged in French oak. Highly aromatic and intense, the nose offers boysenberry, black cherry, spiced floral notes, and sweet cedar. Built on a firm frame, this dry, full-bodied blend delivers depth and complexity, flavours of cassis, black plum, spice and herbs with notes of toast carrying through the long finish. Serve with robust meat dishes; drink now to 2019. (Susan Desjardins)


Burrowing Owl Merlot 2009
VQA Okanagan Valley $41.95 (585737) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s a beautifully balanced, richly textured Merlot from one of the Okanagan’s premier wineries. Opaque ruby, it’s splendidly perfumed with ripe fruit, spice and sweet notes of Okanagan herbs. Dry, mid-full weight, round yet juicy, the well-integrated oak and fine tannins lend balance. Cherry and plum flavours mingle with warm spice and pepper through the finish. It’s drinking well now, but definitely a candidate for medium-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Fortified Red Wine: Port

Dow’s ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port 2007
DOC Douro, Portugal $16.95 (613927) 20% alcohol
This gem dishes up a luscious mouthful of tangy, racy black currant and cherry on the palate juxtaposed with moderating ripe, jammy fruit on the lengthy finish. LBVs are bottled 4 to 6 years after harvest—spend 2x longer in barrel than Vintage Port—and are drinkable at purchase. It’s blessed with good body, silky smooth texture and a generous mouth feel. Sip by the fire on its own or pour with blue-veined cheese or dark chocolate, now to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Domaine Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Aurore’ Brut Rosé

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $18.95 (048793) 12.0% alcohol

Pale-salmon hued, this is absolutely delightful—a medium-bodied sparkler that’s fruity and dry. From subtle aromas of summer berries, spice and brioche through to the delicate creamy mousse that refreshes the palate, it offers light red berry flavours and a lengthy mouth-watering finish. Great value, enjoy it wiling away an afternoon or with smoked salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

Niagara Peninsula: White Wine

Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling 2010
VQA Short Hills Bench $17.95 (557165) 11.0% alcohol
Straw hued, proffering rich fruity aromas—citrus, pear, floral—this is a deftly balanced, fresh, off-dry gem. There’s lovely harmony between the clean spine of acidity and the well-ripened fruit leading to a lingering, tangy sweetness on the finish. Serve with a caramelized onion and squash galette or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

Niagara Peninsula: Red Wine

Jackson-Triggs ‘Niagara Estate Grand Reserve’ Shiraz 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (317941) 13.5% alcohol
Inky ruby, this is a substantial red with alluring aromas of mint, pepper dancing over rich, ripe, red and black fruit. Dry, full bodied, the menthol comes through on the palate mingling with succulent, spiced black fruit, a hint of coffee bean and a dazzling peppery note. Fermented in French and American oak for 12 months, the firm structure complements the ripe fruit while peppery garnish persists on the finish. A fine value to serve with rare roast beef. (Susan Desjardins)


Pelee Island ‘Vinedressers’ Meritage 2010
VQA Ontario $24.95 (317933) 13.0% alcohol
This blend of the Cabernets and Merlot displays aromas of red berry, vanilla and spice. Dry, mid-full weight, it deftly balances structure and fruit sporting velvety tannins, fresh acidity and juicy fruit. The notes of vanilla and spice replay on the palate carrying through the extended, dry finish. Enjoy this wine with rich meat casseroles. (Susan Desjardins)


Pillitteri Estates Winery Cabernet Franc 2010 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $17.95 (013763) 13.5% alcohol 

Introducing itself with delicate aromas of red berry fruit and kitchen spice, it washes over the palate with mixed red berry fruit, sour cherry and sprigs of savory herbs and spice. It’s medium bodied and finishes up framed by good moderating acidity and perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring alongside pulled pork slathered with mild salsa. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

McNab Ridge ‘Shadow Brook Farms’ Roussanne 2009
Mendocino $18.95 (312892) 14.5% alcohol
Looking for flavour and freshness—this wine’s for you. Roussanne is often blended with Marsanne in the Rhône, but stands alone in this floral, fruity version. Dry, mid-full weight, it’s loaded with ripe stone and orchard fruit and finely balanced with fresh acidity. Appealing warmth carries through the lovely, lingering finish. Very tasty and a match for pork with fruit compote. (Susan Desjardins)


Sanford Chardonnay 2010 

Sta. Rita Hills, California $31.95 (956003) 14.2% alcohol 

Hand picked, barrel fermented with full malolactic conversion, this dishes up a complex, structured mouthful of beautifully balanced Chardonnay. Vanilla, slate, tropical fruit and apple pie spice aromas provide segue to a river of succulent white nectarine, crisp, green apple and tropical fruit mingling with nutty notes and tangy lemon and orange zest. It’s mid-full weight and fully textured with a crisp, refreshing aftertaste of ripe melon and citrus. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Beringer ‘Napa Valley Vineyards’ Pinot Noir 2008
Napa Valley $29.95 (718668) 14.3% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this classy Pinot Noir entices with aromas of rich fruit, spice and smoky oak. Dry, mid weight, it’s round, smooth and loaded with red and black cherry/berry flavours, spiced vanilla and a well-integrated wisp of that toasty oak. The extended finish is lush, warm and satiny. A hedonist’s pleasure! (Susan Desjardins)


Cline Cellars ‘Cashmere’ 2010
California $19.95 (161539) 14.0% alcohol
This blend of Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache is, well, like the sweater . . . luxurious. Powerful, black cherry and berry flavours touched with spice and vanilla follow the impressive fruit, floral and spice aromas. The texture is quite luscious and smooth, the fruit expansive. Subtle structure makes for delectable balance in this medium-full bodied, drink-me-now red. (Susan Desjardins)


Ironstone ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2011
Lodi $17.95 (951889) 14.5% alcohol
An aromatic nose of cloves and ripe berry fruit provides segue for a rich, ripe river of sweet jammy flavour coating the palate, infusing the lengthy aftertaste. It’s mid-full weight with good texture and a favourable price point. A young Zin, there’s unresolved tannin lurking underneath that’s easily handled with a two-hour aeration/decant. Drink now to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

Columbia Crest ‘H3’ Merlot 2009
Horse Heaven Hills $19.95 (209874) 14.5% alcohol
Mocha, dark berry fruit and cedar on the nose, it sprays the palate with a spirited wash of sweet, red berry fruit interwoven with espresso roast, mixed herbs and spice. Medium-bodied with good mouth feel, this stylish Merlot delivers good acidity and a solid tannin underpinning nicely balancing off the sweet, ripe fruit. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring alongside rosemary-rubbed, grilled, rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Dante Robino ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2009
Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo $19.95 (301473) 15.0% alcohol
Aged 12 months in American oak, this inky wine is redolent with rich aromas of chocolate, sweet black fruit, spice and vanilla. Dry, full bodied, it’s round and smooth, offering depth of tasty fruit, subtly integrated oak and tannins, and a lasting warm toasty finish garnished with a touch of coffee. Enjoy it now with roast meats, or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)


Lamadrid ‘Single Vineyard Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Argentina $17.95 (223206) 14.8% alcohol
Smoky, toasty aromas interlace with cassis and cherry presaging racy, tangy waves of red currant and sour cherry adorned with savoury herbs. It’s medium-full weight with good texture and a solid lick of tannin on the palate and lingering finish. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Laura Hartwig ‘Reserva’ Carmenère 2010
Colchagua Valley $15.95 (213512) 14.0% alcohol
This is top-drawer Carmenère with luscious flavours, smooth, mellow mouth feel and a drop-dead, gorgeous aftertaste. Dark, rich, concentrated flavours of black licorice, espresso roast and rich, concentrated dark cherry explode on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with an alluring, finish of cassis and kirsch liqueur that roll in endless waves. Grilled steak with Portobello mushrooms pair well. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Domaine Tournon ‘Shay’s Flat Vineyard’ Shiraz 2010
Pyrenees, Victoria $29.95 (311480) 14.0% alcohol
From cool-climate Victoria; exotic spice, gamey notes and red berry fruit aromas presage a balanced, structured river of cocoa, ripe mulberry and racy, briary berry interweaving with savoury herbs. It’s mid-full weight, nicely textured with a long, savoury-infused aftertaste of tangy, racy red berry fruit and oaky notes. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring over the next 8 years. (Vic Harradine)


Heartland Shiraz 2009
Langhorne Creek/Limestone Coast, South Australia $19.95 14.5% alcohol
There are oodles of savoury herbs and cherry notes on the nose of this beautifully balanced, structured beauty. A solid core of racy, red berry fruit, spice-laden cherry and sweet vanilla streams over the palate. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and long, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Supple tannin and good moderating acidity coupled with solid fruit flavour portend a further 5-plus-year drinking window. (Vic Harradine)


Mollydooker ‘The Maitre d’’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
South Australia $29.95 (246629) 15.5% alcohol
Aromas of rich, dark berry fruit, dark cherry and savoury herbs presage a medium-full bodied, generously textured wash of hi-octane, palate-bathing flavour with cassis and sweet ripe mulberry to the fore. It’s beautifully balanced with good moderating acidity and brimming with flavour throughout. It finishes luscious, lengthy and lip-smacking good. If you fish in $30 waters, reel this in, there’s great value here. (Vic Harradine)



Mount Langi Ghiran ‘Kneebones’ Shiraz 2007
Grampians, Victoria $21.95 (295527) 14.5% alcohol
Along with Seppelts and Bests, Mount Langi Ghiran, heads a list of top-notch producers in the moderately cool Grampians. The late Trevor Mast, then Ghiran’s winemaker, championed cool-climate Shiraz in the late 1980s. Aromas of spice-driven fruit and cassis provide segue for a full-on rush of palate-coating, balanced, luscious flavour—red cherry, ripe briary berry adorned with sprigs of savoury herbs and hints of tomato leaf. Fine-grained tannin adds structure and interest. (Vic Harradine)


Wakefield Shiraz 2010
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 ((943787) 14.0% alcohol
Wakefield—named Taylors in Australia—is one of 12 family-owned ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’ producing wine with sense of place. Roasted herbs, tarry notes, black pepper and toasty, oaky notes on the nose herald a lip-smacking, beautifully textured wash of ripe, sweet mulberry and juicy, black cherry. Mid-full weight, über smooth and mellow on the palate, it sports a long, mellow, balanced finish adorned with mocha, dark fruit and streaks of oaky tones. Each sip is as good or better than the previous—pick up a few, there’s lots of life left. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Opawa Pinot Noir 2010
Marlborough $17.95 (295584) 13.5% alcohol
Remarkable value, this pretty Pinot Noir offers up lifted aromas of red fruit, floral, earth and light spicy notes. Dry, medium-full bodied, it has a lovely satiny texture, a touch of mineral, fine acidity and sweetly spiced ripe red fruit. The finish is ripe and fruity. Enjoy it now with planked salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

Jardin ‘The Prospector’ Syrah 2008 

WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (296673) 14.5% alcohol 

The name is taken from various, now abandoned, tin mines in the area. An abundance of alluring aromas—spice-infused, dark berry fruit, sweet vanilla and savoury herbs and spice—presage a mellow, silky-smooth wash of briary berry, juicy black cherry and mocha on the palate replaying on the oaky, juicy finish. This spent 16 months in French and American oak barrels. It’s mid weight, well paced and good to go now on its own or poured with smoked, grilled back ribs and grilled root veggies. (Vic Harradine)


The Grinder Pinotage 2011 

WO Western Cape, South Africa $13.95 (269076) 14.0% alcohol 

Toasty oak, espresso roast and field berry fruit on the nose, this coats the palate with a spirited wash of dark roast coffee, ripe, sweet mulberry and spice box. Unique, balanced and brimming with flavour it finishes dry and tasty in a blaze of red cherry and good, moderating acidity. It’s an affordable crowd pleaser. Pour with smoked, grilled ribs or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Joseph Cattin Riesling 2011
AOC Alsace $14.95 (259788) 12.0% alcohol
Here’s another outstanding Alsatian value—an award-winning wine offering delectable floral perfume, mineral notes and ripe stone fruit. Dry, medium bodied, pithy citrus and tangerine mingle with apricot, fresh lively acidity lifts the fruit and provides a crisp lingering finish. Serve it now with halibut with an orange/lemon sauce and tuck a few bottles away for 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château De Gironville 2009
AOC Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux $23.85 (193086) 13.5% alcohol
This is nicely structured and flavour-laden with involved aromas conjuring up toasty oak and savoury, dark berry fruit. It’s quite smooth and mellow on the palate with a solid core of medium-weight flavours—black currant and dark cherry infused with herbs and kitchen spice. There’s a lengthy, balanced finish with a lick of supple tannin, quieted down nicely with a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)


Château de Puisseguin Curat 2010
AOC Puisseguin St-Émilion $19.95 (307140) 14.5% alcohol
From a celebrated vintage, this is another award-winning wine that offers great value. Aromas include ripe, black cherry, plum, spice and a whiff of smoke. Dry and medium-full bodied, the texture is very smooth, the red fruit ripe with the notes of spice and pepper building across the palate. Fine tannins and acidity along with subtly-integrated oak balance the rich, fruit flavours, while the warm, spicy finish makes this a great wine to serve on a cold winter day, or to cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine des 3 Cellier ‘Marceau’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $34.95 (309856) 14.9% alcohol
This is an excellent value, another award winner that combines berry jam, dried fruit and herbs, chocolate and leather on the nose. Composed principally of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, it’s dry, full bodied, round and richly fruity, showing spice and a dramatic peppery note on the palate. Subtle, yet discernable structure, frames the ripe, luscious fruit, making it age-worthy over the long term. Warm and peppery on the finish, the robust flavours are a match for herbed roast lamb. (Susan Desjardins)


Les Hauts de Castellas Vacqueyras 2010
AOC Vacqueyras $19.95 (177634) 14.0% alcohol
Vinified from old-vine Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, this wine entices with lifted aromas of red berry and black cherry, sweet spice, vanilla and milk chocolate. Dry, mid-full weight, there’s a mouthful of rich, intense fruit—raspberry and blackberry—paired with a firm structure composed of ripe tannins and fresh acidity. Attractive notes of spiced vanilla and oak adorn the finish. Enjoy it now or cellar medium term. (Susan

Italy: Red Wine

Marchesi Mazzei Zisola Nero d’Avola 2009
IGT Sicily $25.95 (303925) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of black plum compote and other stewed fruit herald a fleshy, rich and luscious wash of sweet, ripe mulberry and dark, juicy cherry bathing the palate in waves. It’s medium bodied with very generous mouth feel. Everything replays on the long, fruit-filled, balanced aftertaste. Avola is a city and area in southeastern Italy where the indigenous grape, Nero d’Avola, reigns supreme. Good to go now with grilled ribs slathered in spicy, barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (651596) 13.0% alcohol
The lifted aromas of this organic wine waft from the glass—cedar, tobacco, herbs and cherry/berry fruit. Dry, round, mid-full weight, nuances of spice and dried herbs intermingle with the juicy, ripe cherry/berry fruit. Perceptible tannins and fresh acidity frame the fruit through a clean, bright finish. Appealing and flavourful, the wine is a good match for meat-based pasta dishes. (Susan Desjardins)


Domini Veneti ‘Vignete di Torbe’ Ripasso 2010 

DOC Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore, Italy $19.95 (303537) 13.5% alcohol 

A lifted nose of fig, dark berry fruit with hints of tar open this flavour-laden gem. A spirited wash of juicy, black, dark Bing cherry and black currant interweave with tobacco leaf and black licorice on the palate and through the lingering, lip-smacking finish. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured offering excellent value and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: March 2, 2013

Tawse Winery Gamay Noir 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 12.0% alcohol
Exotic spice, black pepper and über-fragrant, ripe, red fruit herald a juicy, well-structured river of delectable, ripe mulberry and spice-laden, briary berry streaking across the palate adorned with complexity and charm. It’s medium weight and balanced with good mouth feel and a juicy, tangy aftertaste warm with piquant spice, wisps of supple tannin, fruit-laden and absolutely charming. It’s a very special, top-drawer Gamay. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages On-line Exclusives

(click on Product Code link and order; will be shipped to the LCBO store of your choosing)

Gladstone Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009
Wairarapa, North Island, New Zealand $34.00 (141903) 14.7% alcohol
With international gold medals and trophy in hand, this hand-harvested, small-batch-fermented beauty oozes charm and touches of elegance. Dark toast, exotic spice and rhubarb/strawberry compote on the nose, it bathes the palate with rich, spice-laden flavour—tangy cranberry, ripe cherry and vibrant black currant wreathed in savoury herbs and fine-grained tannin. It’s well balanced and nicely structured with a memorable, lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Tawse Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2011
VQA Creek Shores $34.95 (306035) 200 mL 10.0% alcohol
Lovely, sweet floral notes, honeyed red berries, grilled pink grapefruit and a whiff of candied ginger mingle on the nose of this elegant, sumptuous wine. The flavours replay, the sweet grapefruit and ripe berry fruit shining through, the luscious texture is honeyed yet exquisitely balanced with subtle, refreshing acidity. Superb, and so richly flavoured as to be dessert quite on its own—nibble a truffle if you must. Designed to cellar, but no need to wait. Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Tawse. (Susan Desjardins)


Tawse Winery Cabernet Merlot 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.95 13.0% alcohol
Primarily Cab Franc with 27% Cab Sauv and 15% Merlot, this bounds from the glass with kitchen spice, herbs, chocolate and mixed field berry aromas. It needs time to knit, but everything’s there—great carpentry, deft balance, complexity and charm. Rich, ripe flavours of cherry and spiced black plum coat the palate. red and black currant with a solid tannin underpinning provide an aftertaste that’s dry and elegant. Better left until 2014, a three-hour aeration/decant works well for now. Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Tawse. (Vic Harradine)


Tawse Winery Meritage 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $59.95 13.0% alcohol
This impressive, deftly-crafted wine is composed of the Cabernets and Merlot from three select vineyards, each variety separately fermented, then aged 24 months in French oak. Tempting aromas of dark fruit, sandalwood, mocha, spice and a touch of vanilla drift from the glass. Dry, full flavoured and powerful, the fine-grained tannins underpin juicy black cherry and black currant, compelling notes of earth, pipe tobacco, dark chocolate and coffee bean adding complexity and depth, the latter persisting on the dry, mid-length finish. Decant and enjoy this wine with herbed leg of lamb, or cellar medium term. Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Tawse. (Susan Desjardins)


Tawse Winery Meritage 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $59.95 13.5% alcohol
It’s rich and luscious with structure and complexity—an outstanding blend, a superlative vintner, an exemplary vintage. Ripe, dark cherry and black currant aromas mingle with vanilla, black pepper and roasted herbs. A smooth, balanced wash of spice, cassis, red and black cherry bathe the palate garnished with pipe tobacco and wisps of forest floor. It’s mid-full weight, generously textured with a lengthy finish of dark coffee and bittersweet chocolate underpinned by fine-grained tannin. Drink 2014 – 2020. Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Tawse. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

Order the following by the case for home or office delivery from agent Dave Coutts via email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..


Millaman ‘Estate Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
DO Curico Valley, Chile $13.15 13.0% alcohol
Lively grassy, herbaceous aromas herald a balanced spray of tropical fruit and spice interwoven with tangy lemon-lime. It’s light-medium bodied with good texture and a solid line of moderating acidity throughout. It finishes clean, crisp and refreshing with lip-smacking flavours of white grapefruit and lemon zest. Fair value here. (Vic Harradine)

Order the following by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

Consignment Wine

Quinta da Raza Vinho Verde 2011
DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal $11.95 11.5% alcohol
Good value here. Ripe apple, crisp pear and streaks of mineral on the nose, this dishes up a spritzy, spirited river of sweet, binned apple and tangy citrus tones adorned with a bite of grapefruit pith on the finish and lingering aftertaste. It’s light on its feet with good mouth feel. Poured and paired perfectly with grilled garlic prawns or steamed shellfish with pasta in white sauce or white pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Private Order

White Wine

la Murola Verdicchio di Matelica 2011
DOC Verdicchio di Matelica, Italy $ TBA 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of honeyed pit fruit, nuttiness and tropical fruit segue a nicely balanced, fruit-laden wash of lively flavour—lemon zest, green apple and ripe, white peach. It’s light-mid weight with generous texture and a tangy, racy, lip-smacking aftertaste redolent of almonds and citrus. Pours well with chicken, veal or seafood, especially pan-seared scallops. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

la Murola ‘2’ Sangiovese 2011
IGT Marche, Italy $15.50 13.5% alcohol
Charred toast and spice-infused, dark berry fruit aromas rip from the glass of this smooth and mellow red. There are oodles of red cherry and red currant flavours on the palate and long, balanced aftertaste. It’s mid weight with a lovely, satiny mouth feel. Versatile and value-driven it pairs well with pasta in tomato sauce, red pizza and stuffed green peppers. (Vic Harradine)


Quinta de Lubazim ‘Lupucinus’ Colheita 2011
DOC Douro, Portugal $ TBA 14.0% alcohol
Purple/black with gorgeous aromas of cedar, dark cherry and licorice on the nose, it coats the palate with rich, luscious flavours of dark chocolate, espresso roast and juicy black cherry adorned with good moderating acidity. It’s medium-full bodied with a silky-smooth mouth feel and lingering finish of full-bore, delectable, briary berry with savoury herbs underpinned by supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)


Quinta de Lubazim ‘Lupucinus’ Reserva 2009
DOC Douro, Portugal $17.95 14.0% alcohol
Savoury, tobacco and heady aromas of spiced black plum roll from this tangy, full-flavoured, robust red. Medium-full bodied with good mouth feel. Oodles of spice-infused black currant and sweet, ripe cherry mingle with herbaceous, savoury bits and racy acidity. It’s nicely balanced with good structure and a lingering smooth and mellow finish. Good to go now with grilled beefsteak or beef short ribs. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan