Immediately following the reviews on the upcoming July 9 Vintages Release you will find more exciting reviews of wines now available to you on General List at the LCBO, in Ontario wineries and directly from wine agents.

Vintages Release July 9th, 2005

Sparkling Wine

***1/2 drink now
Fox Creek "Vixen" Sparkling Shiraz-Cabernet Franc
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (522268)

This wine withstands all the derision in the tasting room about
sparkling Shiraz. I happen to like the stuff, and this is an interesting variation, in that it has Cabernet Franc as a component. The fruit flavours of the varieties are all there, but the texture is lightened and made edgier by the bubbles. It's refreshing and a bit austere at the same time, and makes a great partner for spicy barbecued red meat dishes. Ignore any uninformed sneers around you. (RP)

United States: White Table Wine

***** drink now
Artesa Chardonnay 2001
Carneros, Napa Valley $31.95 (657585)

Renowned wine maker Don Van Staaveren (formerly wine master at Chateau St. Jean) has his stamp all over this. Quince, cloves, marmalade and toasted oak aromatics draw the taster in to sample this medium to full-bodied treasure. Its creamy texture matches well with tropical fruit (guava and orange rind) flavours that have been deftly balanced with an underpinning of citrus notes. The finish is warm (14.3% alcohol) and lingering. Try with pork loin stuffed with dried apricots and mint. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Au Bon Climat Chardonnay
Santa Barbara County $29.95 (983114)

An involved nose of baked apple, nutmeg and nectarine opens the door to a mélange of delicate flavours that are predominantly white peach, mint and citrus. Well balanced, delicately nuanced and creamily textured, as one would expect from this meticulous, (hand picked, whole bunch pressed, barrel (no new oak) fermented, unfiltered) iconic Santa Barbara winery. Elegant, rather than overpowering, drink now to 2008. (VH)

**** drink now
Kendall-Jackson "Vintner's Reserve" Sauvignon Blanc 2003
California $17.95 (459552)

A well-made Sauvignon Blanc with light but brisk acidity that balances very well with a core of tropical and apricot fruit. It finishes with clean citrus notes, and matches well with simple seafood or grilled white fish. (RP)

United States: Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink now
EXP Syrah 2002
Dunningan Hills (Prod. & Btld by RH Phillips) $21.95 (594325)

The nose is quite muted (strawberries and pepper), but it really delivers on the palate with spicy red currants, red licorice and plums. Everything is in perfect balance from the silky smooth tannins and balancing acidity to the pleasant finish of plums and sour cherries. Try this with grilled rare filet mignon slathered with blue cheese. From a superior producer at a great price. (VH)


****1/2 drink or cellar
Artesa Merlot 2000
Sonoma Valley $31.95 (658534)

An unusual and exotic nose of sandalwood, stewed raspberries and forest floor. This tangy offering is unique and well worth a try with its earthy components that are well integrated with full black cherry flavour. The perceptible tannins will tame with age and the finish is lingering and perfectly balanced with red currants and soft acidity. Drink 2007 - 2012 with veal shanks. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Gallo of Sonoma "Two Rock Vineyard" Pinot Noir 2003
Sonoma Coast, California $39.95 (677591)

A really lovely Pinot Noir from a newly-designated Gallo vineyard. Look for a core of rich, sweet fruit nicely framed by notes of spicy, savoury cherry. It's well balanced, has firm but already manageable tannins, and pairs extremely well with gamey meat, like duck or lamb. (RP)

***** drink or cellar *****
Kendall-Jackson 'Vintner's Reserve' Pinot Noir 2003
California $21.95 (657940)

Cigar box, cassis and spiced black plum aromatics are the portend to this wine that we both loved. The involved and rich flavour profile provides currants, raspberries and crushed mint while the texture is creamy and plush. Expect a powerfully long and luxurious finish of licorice and plums. Cleans up with good acidity. Put it all together and you have an age-worthy (now to 2012) Pinot at an outstanding price. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
California $22.95 (738823)

A simply delicious Cabernet Sauvignon that will drink beautifully with fairly rich red meat dishes. It has concentrated dark fruit (cherry, plum, berries) with spicy and savoury notes, a rich, layered texture, and great balance. The tannins are firm and drying, but manageable now with rare meat. Liberty School can clearly teach a few other producers a
thing or two. (RP)

Argentina: White Table Wine

**** drink now
Alamos Chardonnay 2004
Mendoza $13.95 (925743)

A great value Chardonnay, with beautifully-pitched fruit (peach, pear, tropical fruit), good complexity, and excellent balance. The texture is soft and generous, and this will pair perfectly with many dishes, including grilled white fish and grilled pork. (RP)

Argentina: Red Table Wine

****1/2 cellar
Alta Vista Malbec 'Premium' 2002
Mendoza $13.95 (677443)

Black currants and cranberries gush from the nose of this classy red. Malbec is the grape that will vault Argentina to prominence and this is a worthy effort. Rich and concentrated plums and cherries shower the palate and it cleans up nicely on the finish with great balance and forward fruit flavours. Exceptional value, this cellar dweller (drink 2007 - 2012) deserves a try and, if you like it, a multiple bottle purchase. (VH)

Chile: Red Table Wine

***** drink now *****
Viña Montgras Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah Reserva 2003
Colchagua Valley $11.95 (976787)

This is really amazing value. It's a really delicious blend with quite intense fruit flavours (dark plum, cherry, berries), with spicy and pepper notes. There's a hint of tanginess in the texture, the balance is good, and the tannins are ripe and firm. Open it as you light the barbecue, and pour it as the steak or burgers start sizzling. (RP)

Australia: White Table Wine

****1/2 drink now
Beckett's Flat 'Belizar's' Verdelho 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $18.95 (585851)

Madeira-lovers are more familiar with this Portuguese grape, but it is now used to produce surprisingly good dry table whites and this is one. Herbaceous and citrus notes on the nose lead into a medium-bodied (very light in colour) white of good complexity and character. Kiwi fruit and minty flavours blend into the citrus tangy finish that leaves you wanting more. The ABC crowd will love it with garlic scampi, hot off the grill. (VH)

**** drink now
Yalumba 'Oxford Landing' Chardonnay 2003
South Australia $11.95 (283671)

Secured by screw cap to ensure the lively aromas and flavours that were present when the wine was made will be there for you when you open. Lifted aromatics of tropical fruit and spice (pineapple, honeydew melon and nutmeg) are followed more of the same on the creamy smooth palate. Nicely balanced, this is great value for summer quaffing. (VH)

Australia: Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beckett's Flat Shiraz 2001
Margaret River, Western Australia $26.95 (585869)

Primarily a boutique winery (only 14 Ha), it's nice to see them here. The 12 year old vines and maritime climate show well with rich, black fruit without any jammy overblown characteristics. Spiced currants and cherries drift from the glass whilst the palate displays perceptible ripe tannins, more cherries, some plum, great balancing acidity and a pleasing finish. Deserving of a purchase plus a "Good on ya' Mate!" (VH)

New Zealand: White Table Wine

***** drink or cellar
Framingham Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (606848)

From one of the world's top sites for Sauvignon Blanc, this oozes typicity and terroir. The astoundingly herbaceous (nettles and bell pepper) nose has undertones of passion fruit and gooseberry that are more prominently displayed on the rich, fruity (kiwi and passion fruit) and full textured (13.5% alcohol) palate. It is taut and clean and may benefit from short-term ageing of 6 months to a year. Try with chèvre on
the deck. (VH)

South Africa: White Table Wine

****1/2 drink now
Zevenwacht Sauvignon Blanc 2004
WO Stellenbosch $16.95 (651463)

It's amazing how some South African regions can turn out both warm and cool climate wines with such success. This is a lean, almost austere Sauvignon Blanc, with flavours in the green zone: grass, green apple, and gooseberry. The acidity is zesty and clean, and it balances out the fruit perfectly. A great partner to a plate of fresh oysters on the shell or to a goat cheese and tomato tart. (RP)

France: White Table Wine

***** drink or cellar
Domaine des Deux Roches "Rives de Longsault" Saint-Véran 2003
AOC Saint-Véran $25.95 (594853)

To my mind, Saint-Véran makes some of Burgundy's most attractive whites, but it doesn't have nearly the profile of some appellations. This is from the hot 2003 vintage, and it's packed with sweet fruit flavours of peach, tropical fruit, and red apple, with caramel and vanilla notes. It's beautifully balanced and makes a fine partner to grilled salmon or pork chops. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Paul & Mallory Talmard Mâcon-Uchizy 2003
AOC Mâcon-Uchizy $16.95 (733956)

Lanolin and baked apple pie are the intriguing aromatics emanating from this atypical white. There is a core of sweet peach, almonds and quince flavours that captures your interest then the lengthy finish of full throttle pineapple, lemon and nectarines simply stuns your senses. This would be magic with roast chicken, dried fruit dressing and herbed roasted potatoes. The relative anonymity of the region keeps it affordable. (VH)

**** drink now
Domaine Lafage Chardonnay 2003
Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $17.95 (680611)

Another great value white from the Midi. Smoke and oak dominate the nose, but this full-bodied and richly textured wine is not bereft of character. Rich (apple and pear fruit) and tangy (lemon) on the palate, it finishes with great verve and acidity. It begs for mussels steamed in a white wine and freshly-squeezed lemon mixture. (VH)

France: Red Table Wine

****1/2 cellar
Château de Fonbel 2000
AOC Saint Émilion Grand Cru (Famille Vauthier, Prop.) $42.95 (655100)

Owner Alain Vauthier also owns the famous Château Ausone and the 20-year-old vines used for this predominantly Merlot wine are just a stone's throw away. The opaque, inky appearance in the glass and rustic, edgy nose of currants and tar are a fair indicator of what is to follow. The flavours are rich, concentrated cassis and black plums wrapped in grainy tannins and well balanced acidity. More of the same on the finish suggests this is a keeper (drink 2007 - 2012) and that it will get even better. It is very good now. (VH)

France: Rosé Table Wine

**** drink now
Presqu'île de St-Tropez "Carte Noire" Rosé 2004
AOC Côtes de Provence $12.95 (319384)

Every now and again, a wine rises from that vast lake of Provençal rosé, and this is one. Don't be put off by the packaging, which seems cleverly designed to convince you that this is cheap and nasty. Instead, what you have is a quite delicious wine, with concentrated fruit flavours, good dry texture, and excellent balance. Drink it with summer salads (with aged prosciutto) or just sip it with friends. (RP)

**** drink now
Château Bellevue la Forêt Rose 2004
AOC Côtes du Frontonnais $12.95 (219840)

With a nose resplendent with freshly picked strawberries and cranberries you'd expect a lighter-styled wine with tang, and that is exactly what it delivers, that and more. An uncomplicated palate of fresh acidity in a slightly 'off dry' style manages that sweet and sour tangy aftertaste that is so refreshing on a hot summer's day. Serve well chilled. (VH)


Germany: White Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Markus Molitor Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken 2000
QmP Mosel Saar Ruwer $19.95 (958140)

The fruit flavours in this off-dry beauty are layered and complex. You start with a classic petrol nose, then move to the tropical zone-peach, rich apple and pear, with some mineral and citrus notes for good measure. All this is wrapped around a spine of good acidity that keeps the sweetness in check. Medium-bodied at most, it's good for pre-dinner sipping, but pairs well with rich, spicy chicken and seafood dishes. (RP)

**** drink now
Louis Guntrum Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken 2002
QmP Rheinhessen, Niersteiner Heiligenbaum (MD) $15.95 (651976)

Unusual to see a Kabinett as Halbtrocken, but these folks have 11 generations of Guntrum's that have worked this land, so who is to argue? A silver medal winner that comes up slate, mineral and passion fruit on the nose. Unctuous flavours of ripe pears and apples present on this medium-bodied sweet and sour beauty that finishes back on the lean side of the fruit, but is so gorgeously tangy you hardly notice. The perfect foil to spicy Asian or hot curried cuisine. Price to quality ratio is quite attractive. (VH).


Italy: White Table Wine

**** drink now
Baglio Hopps Sulana 2003
IGT Sicily $18.95 (652776)

A blend of Inzolia (a white grape indigenous to Sicily) and Chardonnay (which is not), this has a intriguing range of flavours, including tropical fruit, melon, pear, and peach, together with some earthy and mineral notes. The acidity is zesty and clean, and it complements the fruit excellently. This is a versatile white for food. Try it with a seafood risotto or paella. (RP)

Italy: Red Table Wine

**** drink now
Masseria Monaci 'Eloquenzia' 2000
DOC Copertino $12.95 (732610)

A forward nose of spicy plums, and crushed currants is a lovely door opener for the medium-bodied plush palate of sour cherries and black licorice that walks in. Round and ripe, the finish is silky and fruity (cherries and raspberries). Great value and worth stocking up. Try with lasagna and garlic bread by candlelight with a friend. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cantele 'Amativo' 2001
IGT Salento $28.95 (650952)

This Puglia region red is a blend of 60% Primitivo and 40% Negro Amaro.  A Zinfandel-like red (Zinfandel and Primitivo are different clones of the same grape, both descended from the Croatian variety Crljenak) that is both powerful and classy. Ripe black cherries, tar and black currants blast from the glass as the palate delivers more of the same with a full bore attack of tannic mocha and cherries and a lengthy finish of more of the same. This will separate the women from the girls. Drink now, if you dare, to 2015. (VH)

***** cellar *****
Antinori Solaia 2001
IGT Toscana $169.95 (987586)

A bruiser of a Super Tuscan that should age into a classic beauty in the realm of a first growth Bordeaux. The nose is forward and redolent of brioche, cassis, currants, coffee and tar. Flavours (coffee, cherries and mocha) are forward and wrapped in a tight tannin structure. The finish is till grainy, but has the fruit and acid backbone to go the distance. Compared to U.S. prices, this is good value. Drink 2010 - 2020. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Coltibuono "Cancelli" Sangiovese di Toscana 2003
IGT Sangiovese di Toscana $14.95 920173

What a great wine at this price! It has complex flavours of fresh and dried red fruit, the acidity you want from Sangiovese, and quite firm tannins. At this price, it's perfect for the barbecue circuit, but when the rain drives you inside, you can pair it with tomato-based pasta or pizza and it'll remind you of sunny days to come. (RP)

Portugal: Red Table Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande 2000
DOC Douro (A.A. Ferreira) $16.95 (559526)

Vanilla, coffee and strawberry notes form a lifted nose that delivers on the palate, as well. It is rich, concentrated and well balanced. Black cherries, raisins and tar form the flavours while the finish is long and luxurious. If you haven't cottoned on to the surge in quality of Portuguese wines, try this with grilled venison steak or leg of lamb. (VH)

***** drink or cellar *****
J.M. Fonseca Quinta de Camarate 2001
Vinho Regional Terras do Sado $13.95 (357962)

Fonseca is an exceptional producer of fine wines and this fits in. Roasted nuts, earthy notes and ripe Bing cherries round out the aromatics while the mouth feel is round and plush. Has a lovely sweet mid palate of ripe black fruit that is framed by clean acidity and good grip. Offers a lot for the price tag, worth stocking up. Drink now to 2009 with grilled rare strip loin or rack of lamb. (VH)

Spain: Red Table Wine

***** drink or cellar
Lurton "Barricas" "El Albar" 2001
DO Toro $23.95 (725762)

Made 100% from Tempranillo, this is a stunning wine at a very good price. It's saturated with intense fruit flavours accented with spicy, tarry notes. The tannins are very firm, and you should either put this away for three or four years or drink it with rare beef to handle the tannins. Decanting it, as the catalog suggests, will also help. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Raimat Merlot 2000
DO Costers del Segre $15.95 (590406)

A classy red from a little-known region in the Northeast corner of Spain, just west of Barcelona and Penedès, that delivers great value. Aromatics of crushed strawberries and spiced cherries blossom into a full-bodied wine of considerable weight and texture. Lots of plummy flavours wrapped in a sweet swath of blackberries, beetroot and currants that finishes off fruity and well balanced. Only the unknown region holds back the price from this premium producer and that's a big bonus for you. Drink now to 2010. (VH)


New in the LCBO

Argentina

**** drink or cellar
Masi Paso Doble 2003
Tupungato $14.95 (620880)

"Argentinean Soul, Venetian Style," it says on the label, because this is a blend of grapes associated with Argentina (Malbec) and Venezia (Corvina), made in Argentina by an Italian winery. Whatever. The important thing is that it's a well-made wine that offers very good value. Made from slightly-dried Corvina grapes, its flavours combine both fresh and dried fruit, making for attractive complexity. It's well-balanced, has good, approachable tannins, and goes very well with flavoursome red meat dishes. (RP)

Australia

***1/2 drink now
Black Opal Shiraz 2002
South Eastern Australia $14.95 (474163)

Cherry, currant and spice aromas lead the taster into this full-bodied red that offers gobs of fruit (blackberries and sweet dark plums) and heft (14% alc.). One of those Aussie crowd-pleasers from Beringer Blass that works beautifully on its own or coupled with grilled lamb tenderloin and garlic mashed. At a fair price to drink now to 2008. (VH)

California

**** drink now
Fetzer "Valley Oaks" Chardonnay 2003
California $13.95 (291674)

An involved nose of delicate spice (cinnamon and nutmeg), toast and ripe apples drifts from this medium-bodied white. Has fresh lemon and apple on the palate that turns into gorgeous tropical fruit (pineapple, red grapefruit) on the lengthy finish. Great value and has the verve to pair with seared sea scallops in a red pepper and onion medley. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Gray Fox Merlot 2002
California $6.95 (527507)

Add another furry animal to the Wine Ark. The fox on the label looks as if he just got caught eating the grapes, and of course it evokes the fable of the fox and the vines. Inside the bottle is what counts, though, and this really offers value for money. It has solid fruit with good structure and medium-plus weight. Overall, an impressive entry at this price point, and it's ideal for barbecues when you've invited more people than you intended. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Gray Fox Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
California $6.95 (527515)

The other Gray Fox is a Cabernet Sauvignon and it, too, punches well above its price. The aromas a quite complex, with good dark fruit and vanilla coming through clearly, and the flavours are well-defined and surprisingly complex. It's a medium bodied, has quite decent length, and goes well with meats off the barbecue. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
J. Lohr 'Riverstone' Chardonnay
Arroyo Seco $19.15 (258699)

Guava, ripe watermelon and baked apple aromas whoosh from the glass of this tangy beauty. More spiced apples, citrus and Anjou pears follow on the palate of the well -structured, medium to full-bodied (13.5% alc.) deftly-oaked Chard. From a relatively cool climate this was handled meticulously (approximately one year of oak, malolactic, sur lie and batonage) to produce a beautifully-textured, delicious wine. Very good
value. (VH)

Chile

**** drink now
Castillo de Molina Reserva Merlot 2003
Valle de Lontue $12.95 (237818)

A very attractive Merlot from one of Chile's warm regions. It comes through with intense dark fruit aromas that flow into flavours of black plum, dark cherry and berries, with spicy, savoury accents. (I always think there might be some Carmenère in there, when I pick up some of these savoury notes.) It's soft-textured and medium-bodied, and goes very well with slightly spicy red meat dishes. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Errazuriz "Max Reserva" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Valle de Aconcagua $18.05 (335174)

Named for the winery's founder, Maximiano Errázuriz, this is an ultra-premium Cabernet Sauvignon at an excellent price. The dark fruit aromas are accented with pepper and spice notes, and the flavours are concentrated and complex, with savoury notes coming through in the middle. It's beautifully balanced with approachable tannins, and you can drink this now (with well-seasoned grilled lamb or game) or put it away for two or three years. (RP)

France

**** drink now
Fortant Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc $9.55 (218123)

A very good wine for this price. The aroma's a quite intense spicy dark fruit, and the flavours of dark red plum and blackberry with peppery, spicy notes are well concentrated. It's medium bodied with a warm feel, and makes an excellent partner for flavoursome burgers and grilled red meat. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Yvon Mau et Fils Colombard/Chardonnay 2004
Vin de Pays des Côtes des Gascogne $8.45 (627265)

This more-than-pleasant tangy white is perfect for summer quaffing. Aromatics of nectarines and mangos are present whilst the flavours vacillate between citrus and white peaches. The finish is lengthy and provides a lovely clean up to an honest and straightforward wine. Great alone or with lighter fare such as chicken kebabs. (VH)


**** drink now
Yvon Mau et Fils Merlot 2004
Vin de Pays de L'Aude $ 8.75 (336743)

From one of the largest négociant firms based in Bordeaux, this wine hails from Languedoc. The nose is quite muted and from an indeterminable fruit source, but the flavours come to the fore with dried currants, black cherries and tangy acidity all wrapped up in perfect balance and a firm texture. Would be a lovely match to lamb, tenderloin or rack, grilled and served with roasted herbed potatoes. Well priced. (VH)

**** drink now
Yvon Mau et Fils Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Vin de Pays de L'Aude $ 8.45 (349860)

An a-typical, but a-okay nose of spicy plums and beetroot waft from this lovely red. There is a sweet layer of raspberries and red licorice underpinned by good grip (tannins) and a pleasing texture. The finish offers tangy sour cherries and cranberries. This négociant firm searches out value wine from France and seldom misses the mark. (VH)

**** drink now
Robert Skalli Chardonnay 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc $13.45 (592519)

Another great value from the Vins de Pays d'Oc category. This is a luscious Chardonnay with plenty of peach and tropical fruit flavour, with light toasty notes. Like your Chardonnay oaked, but just slightly so? Try this. It has good acidity, and smooth texture, and it pairs well with grilled chicken or pork with a fruit based salsa. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Robert Skalli Merlot 2002
Vin de Pays d'Oc $13.45 (571042)

A well-made, well-priced Merlot from the south of France, which is providing almost all the good export news in France these days. It has good, concentrated fruit flavours (plum, dark cherry, black berry) with a nice spicy dimension and light tannins. It's medium bodied ad a very good match for grilled red meat dishes this summer. (RP)

Italy

**** drink now
Le Gaggiole 'Fassati' 2003
DOCG Chianti $12.95 (620765)

This Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero blend offers a lovely aromatic profile of cherries, forest floor, leather and spice. The attack on the palate is wonderfully full of spiced cherries and tar with well integrated tannins and balanced, cleansing acidity. This would be well matched to penne with sun dried tomato pesto. A bargain for a wine of this class. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Cantina S. Osvaldo Merlot 2003
IGT Venezie $9.00 (036178)

Lifted aromatics of ripe, sweet black currants and plums provide a tantalizing segue to this full bodied red that seems to gather steam in the mouth. Lots going on: perceptible, but acceptable tannins, luscious sweet ripe fruit (cherries and black licorice) flavours, balancing acidity and a long sweet, fruity finish. Will go well with all manner of summer bar b qued red meats. This is truly an outstanding value. (VH)

New Zealand

**** drink now
Sacred Hill 'Whitecliff' Sauvignon Blanc 2004
New Zealand $14.95 (610972)

Gooseberry and herbaceous notes drift from the glass while the flavour profile provides much more ripe fruit than one expects. Peach, lime and apple flavours mingle and form a beautifully textured and well balanced SB. Lots of tang on the finish to clean it all up and make it a candidate for grilled chèvre on toast with a touch of lemon zest. (VH)

Ontario

**** drink now
Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95

A fairly light Cabernet Franc that retains good intensity of flavour and typicity. You'll find here the characteristic bright red fruit, with spicy cedar accents and integrated green/bell pepper notes. It has good, complex character, a warm mouth feel and a decent finish, and it's an excellent partner to spicy red meat dishes or with grilled salmon. (RP)

Spain

**** drink now
Gandia "Hoya de Cadenas" Reserva 1999
DO Utiel-Requena $10.95 (620989)

From a region near Valencia, this 90% Tempranillo and 10% Grenache blend is terrific value. Bear in mind that it's already almost six years old, and it's developed some complexity in the bottle, preceded by a year in American oak. It offers red and dark fruit, some dried cherry notes, spice and vanilla, and it has a soft, astringent texture with light tannins. Overall, it's very attractive and will pair well with well-seasoned red meat dishes. My question is how anyone can afford to make wine like this, hold it for five years (with no returns), ship it, pay the taxes and mark-ups, and still come in under $11. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Nuviana Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2003
Viño de la Tierra Valle de Cinca $8.95 (623181)

Viño de la Tierra is the Spanish equivalent of Vin de Pays in France. It will be interesting to see if we get more from this category, now that French Vins de Pays are so successful in offering value for money. Nuviana is a 50:50 blend that certainly shows good value. Look for flavours of bright, ripe red fruit, some spicy complexity and vanilla notes, good body, and very light tannins. It's a great choice for a red to go with meats off the grill (or with grilled white fish for your friends who "only drink red"). (RP)

**** drink now
Felix Solis Tempranillo Crianza 2000
DO Valdepeñas $8.30 (636969)

The hand picked fruit (100% Tempranillo) underwent at least 6 months of oak treatment and 2 years in the winery's cellar before release. Black cherries and leather form the nose whilst the flavours are quite prominent (raspberries, tar and black tea) in this Spanish beauty. It has good grip, balanced acidity and a lovely sweet, fruity finish. Quite simply, it is a 5-year-old wine easily worth twice the price. Try with rare grilled beef tenderloin slathered with gorgonzola. A winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Chardonnay 'Sur Lie' 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $28.00 (981159)

Another stunning Ontario wine from the 2002 vintage, this is a rich, luscious Chardonnay with intense aromas of tropical fruit, peach, and lemon zest, and hints of toasty oak. It's all rich fruit on the palate (peach, pear) with soft spicy accents, and the finish is long and focused. It's quite beautifully textured, soft and mouth-filling. Pair this with rich sweet meats (chicken, pork) or seafood (lobster), but you can profitably cellar it for another three or four years. It's available from the winery (use the link at winecurrent.com) or from select Vineyard Estate wine stores. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar *****
Creekside Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95

The 2001 vintage in Niagara was excellent, and it shows through in this Cab. It has fine-tuned dark fruit and berry flavours, loads of complexity, with spice, pepper, leather and cedar notes, a light herbaceous tanginess, and sweet, long tannins. Almost two years aging in French and American barriques have contributed structure and texture without intrusive flavours. Well balanced and finishing long, this Cab has a lot of personality. You can drink this now (with grilled lamb) and over the next five years. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Creekside Estate Winery Pinot Noir Reserve 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95

A quite elegant and impressive Pinot Noir, with beautiful fruit flavours (sweet cherry, mulberry) with hints of spice and white pepper. It has a silky texture, light tannins, and lovely balance. A really delicious Pinot Noir that helps consolidate Niagara's claim to becoming a benchmark for the varietal. (RP)

* Lailey Vineyard provided a number of new wines for tasting and we offer notes on the best of them below. Order direct from the winery (they will deliver to your home), by case lots, via the link to Lailey www.winecurrent.com.


***** drink now
Lailey Vineyard Vidal 2004
VQA Ontario $9.95

The aromatics are quite prominent and include baked apple pie with spice and floral notes. The texture is creamy with apple, pear and citrus flavours to fashion an involved palate. Coupled with pin point balance, it reaches the point of elegance. The amazing component is the acidity, often excessive in dry Vidal, but not here. In this it is complimentary. Cannot urge you strongly enough to try this before it is sold out. (VH)

**** drink now
Lailey Vineyard Gamay Rosé 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.00

Strawberries and cherries bolt from the glass of this copper toned tangy rosé. No sissy wine, this medium-bodied beauty has depth and character through the plum and cranberry flavours to the sweet and sour finish. Greet your guests with this as a chilled aperitif or serve as the perfect foil to spicy Asian or curried dishes. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar *****
Lailey Vineyards Cabernet Franc "Canadian Oak" 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.00/375ml bottle

A rich, concentrated Cabernet Franc with almost everything you want that grape to produce in your glass. The complex aromas and flavours give off ripe red fruit and spice, and the characteristic bell pepper and woody notes. The oak contributes some herbal accents and also fills out the texture. Overall, it's very well balanced now, and will improve with three or four years' aging. Pair it with a fairly gamey and earthy dish, like venison and wild mushrooms. (RP)

****1/2 cellar
Lailey Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.00

Just a 6% touch of Merlot in this stunning red. A huge nose of toasty oak (¾ French ¼ American - 40% new), currants, cherries and tar blasts from the glass. Lots going on here with cassis and currant flavours, perceptible tannins and good acidity for balance. Will benefit from some time in the cellar with an optimum drinking window 2007 - 2012. Then try with grilled venison backstrap medallions. (VH)

**** cellar
Lailey Vineyard "Canadian Oak" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22 (375 ml) $45 (750 ml)

375 ml available now, 750 ml September/October. A deep rich garnet colour is the entrée to this chunky red. Spicy cherries and plums form the lifted nose. The texture is in 3 discrete parts right now - gobs of ripe fruit, grainy tannins and bracing acidity. Needs 2 additional years of bottle ageing to allow it all to knit together. The finish is lengthy and luxurious with a pronounced coconut flavour. Drink 2008 - 2013 as patient cellaring will be well rewarded. (VH)

**** drink now
Lailey Vineyard Barrel Aged Vidal Icewine 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $28 (375 ml)

A gargantuan nose of caramel, mango and treacle that provide a segue to  an unctuous offering that fairly coats the mouth with sweet nectar. There is sufficient acidity to balance this off and the overall structure, balance and sensual effect is quite spectacular. Flavours include pineapple and sweet marmalade. Lovely on its own or served with simple apple and pear desserts. (VH)

* Vineland Estates provided a number of new wines for tasting and we offer notes on the best of them below. Order direct from the winery (they will deliver to your home), by case lots, via the link to Vineland Estates at www.winecurrent.com.


****1/2 drink now
Vineland Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (563361)

Sauvignon Blanc has established itself as a premier grape variety in Niagara, and here's a reason why. This has elegant and intense lemon-lime aromas, with some mineral, herbaceous and aniseed notes. They flow through to the flavours, where the fruit and characteristic Sauvignon Blanc acidity form an excellently-balanced partnership. Overall, it's a delicious wine that's superb with raw oysters and most seafood appetizers and dishes. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Vineland Estates Chenin Blanc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95

Chenin Blanc hails from France's Loire Valley, where it's made in many different styles. Here you have a crisp white with lovely fruit (lemon and white grapefruit to the fore) with notes of honey and passion fruit. It's a gorgeous, finely-poised wine, that's rich and layered, and it pairs beautifully with seared scallops or grilled white fish and a squeeze of lemon. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Vineland Estates Pinot Gris 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95

This is a Pinot Gris that has far more colour-an attractive salmon pink-than most. Verging toward a rosé in style, too, it offers layered notes of strawberry and rhubarb, along with more characteristic white peach and apricot pit flavours. Balanced toward food-friendly crispness, this is a wine to serve with summer salads that feature (for example) spicy beef or aged prosciutto. (RP)
***1/2 drink now

Vineland Estates Cabernet Merlot 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $10.95

The aromas are a bit quiet, but the flavours come through very nicely. Look for red and dark fruit (plum, cherry) with some spicy/smoky complexity, a tangy texture, good length, and soft tannins. It's a good partner for not-too-rich red meat and flavoursome vegetarian dishes. (RP)

**** drink now
Vineland Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (422808)

A well-made, flavoursome Cab with complex aromas and flavours (plum, raspberry, black berry) with spice and vanilla notes. The fruit is nicely tuned and is complemented by food-friendly acidity. With light tannins, this is very good drinking now. Pair it up with grilled red meat or even with rich tomato-based pasta. (RP)

Cheers!

Vic & Rod.