Winecurrent

December 10, 2011 Vintages Release

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • 5 stars – don’t overlook this $16.95 gem shining amongst wines triple the price. It’s found under Ontario: White Wine - Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled – Old Vines’ Riesling 2008
  • Susan’s Stars – Moutard Père & Fils ‘Brut Rosé de Cuvaison’ Champagne Non Vintage 4½ stars @ $49.95 & Château Rochecolombe Côtes du Rhône 2009 4½ stars @ $14.95 & Les Hauts de Castellas Vacqueyras 2009 4½ stars @ $19.95
  • Vic’s Picks – Ayala Majeur ‘Brut’ Champagne Non Vintage 4½ stars @ $49.95 & Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series Montague Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2009 & Peninsula Ridge ‘McNally Vineyards Proprietor’s Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2009 both 4½ stars @ $24.95
  • Finding Waldo – from one of the most prized vineyard sites in the world, it’s 4½ stars at a paltry $24.95
  • New in Consignment Wine – two interesting wines you can purchase by the case for delivery to your home or office following the Main Release – these are the wines found on the wine lists of upscale, wine-friendly restaurants!

LCBO Holiday Store Hours – All LCBO stores are closed Christmas Day, New Year’s Day and Boxing Day. Some have extended store hours on select evenings over the holidays; check with your local store(s). All agency stores are closed Christmas Day and New Year’s Day with an option to open Boxing Day. Check with your local agency store.

Looking for gift ideas?
The LCBO has quite a number on offer and they’re located on two different websites – here and here. Happy shopping!

This winecurrent newsletter reviews wines in the order of the Main Release then in various categories following that. By clicking on the LCBO number (in brackets) in each review, you can search store inventories to find the store nearest you with stock. Stores usually have stock posted by Friday before the release date and many stock shelves late on that Friday.

Merry Christmas and the best of the Holiday Season from Vic, Susan and Dave!

The Main Release

Liqueur

**** drink or cellar
Poli Amaro
Italy $33.95 (662726) 32.0% alcohol
Fashioned through a well-guarded, secret herbal-infusion to alcohol and grappa, then aged in oak barrels, this tasty digestif displays pronounced minty notes, subtle herbal aromas and a tantalizing hint of caramelized sugar. Powerful, rich and velvety, alluring notes of peppermint, recurring nuances of herbs and a subtle bitterness caress the palate leading to a mouth-cleansing finale. Savour and enjoy. (Susan Desjardins)

Fortified Wine: Port

**** drink or cellar
Fonseca ‘Bin No. 27 Reserve’ Port
DOC Douro $15.95 (156877) 20.0% alcohol
Like to know a bit more about Port? Click here for a brief video - Port. Dark fruit aromas—plum, raisin and field berry—drift from the glass of this sweet and succulent dessert wine. Ripe and generously textured flavours flow over the palate with spice cake, black plum compote and currants predominant. This is best sipped at the end of a meal on its own or with a mixed plate of hard aged cheese and nuts or with dark chocolate. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Warre’s ‘Colheita’ Tawny 1997
DOC Douro $39.95 (189597) 20.0% alcohol
Wonderfully rich aromas waft from the glass—dried fruits, honey-toasted nuts and caramelized sugar dominate. Smooth, rich and flavourful, the palate’s reminiscent of spirit-soaked preserved fruit. Notes of spice and appealing warmth persist on a long fruit-filled, raisiny finish. Sample this wonderful Port on its own or with a platter of aged cheese, roasted nuts and fine, dried fruits. Enjoy now or continue to cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

Dessert Wine

**** drink now
Quady ‘Essencia’ Orange Muscat 2007
California $13.95 (299552) 15.0% alcohol
A delight for the senses, this peachy gold dessert wine has consistently appealing aromas and flavours of honeyed apricots, candied orange rind and sweet clementines. The luscious flavours and texture are balanced with lively acidity, leading to a warm, sweet yet fresh finish. Lovely, and a great value. Serve it with orange and lemon tart. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Robert Mondavi Moscato d’Oro 2009
Napa Valley $20.95 (687392) 375 mL 8.0% alcohol
Enjoyable from start to finish, the aromas include floral notes, stone fruit and key lime pie. The wine displays a lovely balance of sweet and tang, the stone fruit and lime replaying on the palate. A fine, soft fizz in combination with subtle flavours and texture make this a very appealing and refreshing end to a holiday meal. (Susan Desjardins)

Champagne

****1/2 drink now
Ayala Majeur ‘Brut’ Champagne Non Vintage
AOC Aÿ $49.95 (004143) 12.0% alcohol
I got excited about this, excited for you... you can’t pop Champagne every time company drops by, but you might for special guests; this’ll do it with great style. Toasty, nutty and floral aromas segue a lavish mousse of fine-bead bubbles and generous texture riding a wave of über-ripe, white peach and juicy pear. It finishes with slate, crisp green apple and citrus on the mouth-watering finish. There’s a world of value here. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Charles Heidsieck ‘Brut Réserve’ Champagne
AOC Champagne $54.95 (036962) 12.0% alcohol
From the house made famous by ‘Champagne Charlie’, this blossoms forth with a bouquet of baking brioche, tree fruit and an endless stream of fine-bead bubbles adorned with crisp, lip-smacking flavour. Golden yellow-hued, there’s a lovely array of lively refreshing flavours with zesty citrus, mineral notes and white peach to the fore. One can never go far wrong with a bottle of this and freshly shucked oysters. As Champagne prices go, this offers great value. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Moutard Père & Fils ‘Brut Rosé de Cuvaison’ Champagne
AOC Champagne $49.95 (244924) 12.0% alcohol
A charming salmon pink, this racy Champagne offers fresh aromas of red berries, mineral, dried herbs and toast. Dry and medium bodied, the clean bright mousse accents the vibrant refreshing acidity and crisp, red berry flavours. The tangy, cleansing finish is certain to whet your appetite—a good match to smoked salmon on latkes with lime-infused sour cream. (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
13th Street ‘Cuvée 13’ Rosé 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (147504) 12.5% alcohol
A brilliant salmon pink, this fine sparkler is a classic blend made in the méthode traditionelle of Champagne. It spent almost 3 years on the lees and displays this on the nose, which includes subtle floral, berry and toasty notes. Light-medium bodied, it has a fine, creamy mousse and refreshing acidity. Soft hints of toast and nuts carry through on the impressively long finish. A great wine for appetizers or lighter fare. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Gloria Ferrer ‘Sonoma Brut’ Sparkling Wine
Sonoma County $21.95 (192898) 12.5% alcohol
There’s a pretty peachy-pink tinge to this golden wine with appealing aromas of bread yeast, toasted nuts, ripe orchard fruit and citrus that carry through on the palate. Bright and fresh on the attack, it’s dry and mid weight with an impressive creamy mousse that reflects its effervescent character. Lively on the finish, it’s well priced and a great wine to whet your appetite. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Pierre Sparr ‘Brut Réserve’ Crémant d’Alsace Non-vintage
AOC Alsace $16.95 (173401) 12.0% alcohol
Light on it’s feet, yet creamy and generous, this fresh citrusy wine has fine aromas and flavours of toasted brioche, stone fruit and lemon-chiffon pie. It’s vibrant, lively and refreshing with a delicate mousse and palate-cleansing mid-length finish. It’s a great choice for a veal or pork dish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Foss Marai Prosecco Extra Dry
DOC Prosecco $18.95 (729392) 11.5% alcohol
A tempting nose of floral and citrussy notes tingle the nose and provide a fitting entry to this very well-priced sparkler. Nothing complicated, but everything is in balance, from the frothy attack of tropical fruit flavours and lemon zest to the lovely tang of acidity on the finish. Serve well chilled to guests as a welcoming wine. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now
Malivoire Musqué Spritz 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (189670) 9.0% alcohol
Almost transparent, this is an absolutely charming wine, proffering tempting notes of honeysuckle, sweet fresh grapes, citrus and stone fruit. The hint of a sparkle tantalizes, the light creamy texture caresses the palate while fresh acidity balances the attractive flavours of lime, mandarin and ripe stone fruit. Clean, refreshing and fruity on the finish, enjoy with a fresh fruit tart. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Cave Spring Chardonnay Musqué 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (246579) 13.0% alcohol
A Musqué clone of Chardonnay, this brims with aromas of Muscat-scented spice, orange blossom and red licorice. Light-medium bodied with a generous, oily texture, there’s a persistent river of sweet ripe orchard fruit juxtaposed with racy tangy citrus throughout. It finishes clean, crisp and refreshing. Sourced from two blocks of +25- and +12-year-old vines, it’s a unique, appetizing aperitif and welcoming wine also pairing well with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled – Old Vines’ Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (277228) 12.0% alcohol
Here’s gold-medal Riesling that’s slightly off-dry and right on the money—sensational from racy start to lip-smacking, lingering finish. Aromas of lemon zest, mineral and honeycomb usher in dazzling yin and yang as racy citrus and ripe pineapple interweave with ripe peach and juicy apple. It’s balanced, structured, generously textured and charming. This is perfect as a welcoming wine, aperitif or with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Malivoire Musqué Spritz 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (189670) 9.0% alcohol
Almost transparent, this is an absolutely charming wine, proffering tempting notes of honeysuckle, sweet fresh grapes, citrus and stone fruit. The hint of a sparkle tantalizes, the light creamy texture caresses the palate while fresh acidity balances the attractive flavours of lime, mandarin and ripe stone fruit. Clean, refreshing and fruity on the finish, enjoy with a fresh fruit tart. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley, B.C.: White Wine

**** drink now
Gray Monk Gewürztraminer 2009
VQA Okanagan Valley $18.95 (321588) 12.8% alcohol
Delicious aromas of honeydew melon, lychee and spice drift from the glass with autumnal notes hovering in the background. Off dry and medium bodied, the sweetly spiced fruit replays on the palate balanced by an elusive tang—mango with a squeeze of lime comes to mind. The finish is long, fresh and persistently fruity. Enjoy with spiced cuisine. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series Montague Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (997353) 13.0% alcohol
Consistently an over-achiever, this won’t disappoint with its layered and luscious approach. Toasty char and mixed field berry on the nose, it washes over the palate in layered waves of juicy, tangy black currant and red currant jelly interlaced with spiced black plum. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lingering, luscious aftertaste. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Peninsula Ridge ‘McNally Vineyards Proprietor’s Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench $24.95 13.0% alcohol
Fruit laden and adorned with well-integrated oak, tannin and acidity, this delivers a juicy mouthful of seriously good Pinot. Aromas of red cherry and berry fruit with wisps of earthiness set up a wash of flavour bathing the palate with ripe cranberry, strawberry, sweet red cherry and nuances of fennel. It’s light on its feet with a silky-smooth mouth feel and a lingering fruity finish. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley, B.C.: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Mission Hill ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (545012) 13.5% alcohol
This is a delicious offering with aromas and flavours of ripe red fruit, a whiff of spice and vanilla along with an underlying earthiness. Dry, medium bodied, the texture is silky smooth, the fruit, acidity and ripe tannins in exquisite balance. Enjoy a hint of warmth and toasty oak on the lasting finish. Good value and a candidate for turkey dinner. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Hess ‘Select’ Chardonnay 2009
Monterey $19.95 (986778) 13.5% alcohol
Nutty, vanilla and tropical fruit aromas introduce this light-medium bodied, crisp, refreshing Chardonnay. The palate’s treated to a steady wash of pit fruit, juicy sweet pear and crisp Granny Smith apple that rides a spine of good acidity through the racy, lip-smacking finish. Pour with pan-seared white fish or mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine

**** cellar
Robert Mondavi ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2008
Napa Valley $46.95 (258186) 14.5% alcohol
This quintessential California Chard rips from the glass with nutty notes, vanilla, oak and smoke. There are oak-tinged flavours of racy citrus, tropical fruit and orange-scented floral notes. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely textured with a lengthy aftertaste of crisp racy green apple and citrus mingling with nuances of toast. Pour 2013 to 2017 allowing the oak to meld with those lovely fruit flavours. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Robert Young Estate Winery Chardonnay 2007
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $49.95 (670430) 14.7% alcohol
This is gorgeous, full of rich, luscious fruit balanced off with deftly integrated oak, moderating acidity and no lack of charm and elegance. Citrus, raisin and tropical fruit aromas are followed by a mélange of rich, balanced fruit flavour with honeydew melon, apricot, white peach and racy citrus to the fore. It’s mid weight and well textured with a lengthy balanced aftertaste of spice-laden orchard fruit. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beringer ‘Napa Valley Vineyards’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $39.95 (91058) 13.9% alcohol
An imposing, powerful wine, this Napa Cab appeals with intense full aromas of dark fruit, sweet spice, toast and subtle autumnal notes. Dry, full bodied, rich ripe dark fruit, sweet spice, vanilla and toast suffuse the palate. Well-evolved tannin and fresh acidity frame the concentrated flavours of red and black berry. Subtle toasty notes underlie the lengthy well-balanced finish. Serve now with rare prime rib, or cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Francis Ford Coppola ‘Director’s Cut’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $34.95 (061002) 14.5% alcohol
Warm days and cool nights—producing wide diurnal temperature variation—coupled with daily morning fog coalesce to make Alexander Valley one of the super-premium wine areas in California. Tar, black licorice and briary berry on the nose, this dishes up a delightful, layered river of palate-washing sweet cassis, tangy black raspberry and mocha that extends through the well-balanced finish. Lovely on its own, it shines with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cicchitti ‘Edicion Limitada’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $23.95 (260893) 14.0% alcohol
Dense-purple in hue, the wine beckons with its aromas of ripe fruit, vanilla and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, the smooth round texture captivates, introducing a mouthful of fruity ripe spiced berries, notes of pepper with toast adding complexity. Approachable and well structured, this is a finely balanced wine that offers toasty warmth on the finish. Enjoy now with grilled meat and veggies or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Clos de los Siete 2008
Mendoza $21.95 (622571) 14.5% alcohol
‘Par Michel Rolland’, this blend is deeply coloured and fragrant with aromas of roses, blueberry pie, cedar and vanilla. Ripe black berry flavours are framed by perceptible tannin and lively acidity. Medium-full bodied, the wine has some interesting nuances of herbs and underbrush. Dry on the finish, there’s a nice bite of tangy, bitter chocolate. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Maipe ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2009
Mendoza $17.95 (247320) 14.0% alcohol
You won’t go wrong with this, it’s layered, beautifully balanced and chockfull of delectable fruit. Cherry, cedar and kitchen spice aromas segue balanced and beautiful waves of rich cassis, kirsch liqueur and dark juicy berry fruit. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a layered lengthy finish underpinned by ripe tannin and lip-smacking acidity. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Malbec 2009
Mendoza $19.95 (188067) 15.0% alcohol
Paul Hobbs consistently offers value, quality and a great taste experience. This deep violet Malbec is no exception, hence the extra half star. There’s attractive complexity on the nose and palate—red and black berries, subtle floral notes, spice, herbs and an elusive mineral quality. Dry, medium bodied, fresh in the mouth, it’s well structured, the bright raspberry and blackberry fruit wrapped in ripe tannin, the finish offering warm peppery nuances. You’ll want to pick up a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Montes Alpha Carmenère 2009
Colchagua Valley $19.95 (143230) 14.5% alcohol
From another producer of reliably good product comes this inky-purple red offering appealing aromas of spicy, rich, dark fruit, cedar and toasty vanilla. Dry, medium bodied and fresh, this is an approachable Carmenère offering a rush of bright berry fruit, a replay of spice and vanilla, hints of pepper and a notion of underbrush. Ripe tannin and fresh acidity create the desired balance, the full fruity finish garnished with notes of charry toast. Bring on the steak or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
d’Arenberg ‘The High Trellis’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (943456) 14.5% alcohol
d’Arenberg is one of 12 family-owned ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’ producing premium wine with a sense of place—they deserve your attention. The involved nose is a cornucopia of aromas with charred toast, dark cherry/berry fruit and mocha predominant. Rich succulent flavours of ripe mulberry and cassis interlace with sour cherry and cranberry on the palate and mouth-watering lingering aftertaste. Mid weight and nicely textured there’s a solid tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant two hours before enjoying a glass. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Ingoldby Shiraz 2009
McLaren Vale $17.95 (247148) 14.0% alcohol
Spice, pepper, red and black berry and licorice aromas entice you to take that first sip of this luscious, velvety wine. Dry, full bodied and fruit forward, flavours are chocolate-coated blueberries and cherries, vanilla, spice and pepper. A wine to savour for its rich full flavours, you’ll enjoy it to the last fruity drop. An excellent value, pick up a few bottles enjoying the evolution over the next few years. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Astrolabe ‘Voyage’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (010421) 13.5% alcohol
An expressive, seductive Marlborough SB that’s brash, bold and bares all—surprisingly not rated ‘R’. Captivating aromas rip from the glass with grassy notes, passion fruit and citrus galore. A wave of key lime pie, gooseberry and spice-laden lemongrass coat the palate riding a spine of tang and mouth-watering zest. It’s mid-weight, fully textured, brimming with lip-smacking flavour and sports a monumental finish. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Kim Crawford Dry Riesling 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (626408) 12.5% alcohol
Mineral, slate, citrus and floral on the nose, this dishes out a riveting spine of tang with lemon zest, racy white grapefruit and key lime galore. It’s light-medium bodied with a crisp and refreshing aftertaste that layers on hints of white peach and ripe pineapple. This pours well with salty ham or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Konrad Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough $17.95 (616243) 13.5% alcohol
Offering a pungent greeting, this wine is rich with aromas—gooseberry, lime, green beans and peppers, citrus and tropical fruits. Dry, medium bodied, the palate replays zesty citrus and gooseberry offering a hint of lemongrass and tropical fruit. Remarkably smooth and tangy, the balance of zesty fruit and lively acidity is appealing and refreshing through the lasting finish. A good value white to serve with white fish or creamy pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Hawkshead Pinot Noir 2008
Central Otago $29.95 (140632) 13.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby and subtly aromatic, this lovely Pinot Noir beckons with aromas of red fruit, dried herbs and earthy undertones. Dry and medium bodied, bright red berry fruit is framed by ripe tannin and fresh acidity. The refreshing fruit-filled finish offers attractive notes of spice and light toast. A good match now for herbed veal chops with a medley of wild mushrooms or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White wine

**** drink now
Anne Boecklin Pinot Gris ‘Réserve’ 2008
AOC Alsace $18.95 (106831) 13.5% alcohol
Rich and fruity, the aromas of spiced apple/pear tart and apricot preserve drift from the glass. Quite luscious in texture, medium-full bodied and sweetly fruity, the wine displays great balance, a texture as smooth as silk and an extended finish. Enjoy with herbed pork tenderloin roasted with sweet potatoes. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cave de Turckheim ‘Brand’ Riesling 2008
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $24.95 (021303) 13.1% alcohol
This is from one of the most highly respected vineyard sites and most successful wine cooperatives in the world. Mineral, tropical fruit and lemon pie filling on the nose, it shifts into high gear on the palate and lingering finish with a balanced and layered wash of tangy lemon and grapefruit, ripe white peach and pineapple. It’s mid weight, silky smooth, crisp and refreshing. Don’t be mislead by the tall skinny Alsatian ‘flute’ bottle, this is not sweet, not even off-dry and a pittance to pay for wine of this calibre. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Château Rochecolombe Côtes du Rhône 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône $14.95 (255034) 13.5% alcohol
This award-winning blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre earns an extra half-star for value. Deep violet, it’s laden with ripe berry fruit, dried fruit notes and sweet spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it bursts on the palate with spiced berries, notes of vanilla and toast. Well-integrated tannin and lively acidity assure an appealing taste experience that finishes with a spicy flourish. Pick up a few bottles to enjoy over the holiday season. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Clos du Calvaire Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $34.95 (728139) 14.5% alcohol
The light-ruby hue of this classic blend belies its ample, generous nature. The rich ripe fruit flavours rush from the glass complemented by notes of smoke, licorice, dried herbs and earth. Luscious, richly textured, full bodied, those lavish spiced fruit flavours replay along with an elusive floral note. Approachable and subtly structured, this appealing wine offers a deliciously consistent profile through the lengthy finish. Value-laden, it will cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Les Hauts de Castellas Vacqueyras 2009
AOC Vacqueyras $19.95 (177634) 14.0% alcohol
This is a substantial red blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre with classic aromas of black cherry, raspberry, spice and herbes de provence. Dry and full bodied, this hearty wine has a firm backbone of perceptible tannin and lively acidity, concentrated fruit, a subtle earthy character and nuances of spice and pepper. It’s well balanced and long on the finish—drink now to 2016. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Perrin & Fils ‘l’Andéol’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages Rasteau 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $19.95 (976845) 13.5% alcohol
The Perrin family is a member (2006) of the über-prestigious PFV Primum Familae Vini—Leading Wine Families—their name on the bottle, an almost iron-clad guarantee of value-for-money wine. This opens with aromas of black pepper, spice and red cherry providing segue to tangy, juicy rivers of palate-washing cranberry, sour cherry and black currant. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with a lingering racy, tangy aftertatse. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Pierre Amadieu ‘Domaine Grand Romane Cuvée Prestige’ Gigondas 2009
AOC Gigondas $27.95 (968693) 14.5% alcohol
The quiet nose of spice, aromatic bitters and red berry fruit open this mid-weight, nicely textured, red blend—predominantly Grenache with 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah—sourced from 50-year-old vines. Palate-coating flavours ride a spine of acidity throughout with racy black currant and spice-infused sour cherry to the fore. The lengthy, dry, crisp finish is looking for pasta in tomato sauce or grilled T-bone with roasted tomato and red pepper. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio 2010
DOC Alto Adige $15.95 (095802) 13.5% alcohol
Floral notes meld with mineral and citrus aromas on the nose while a gusher of tangy flavour rolls over the palate with racy lemon, spice-laden pear and crisp green apple to the fore. It’s light-medium bodied with good texture and a dry, crisp and mouth-watering finish. This pours well alongside steamed mussels or pan-fried tilapia under a squish of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Poderi del Paradiso Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2010
DOCG San Gimignano $14.95 (249490) 13.0% alcohol
Proffering subtly spiced floral aromas and tangy notes of citrus and fresh herbs, this dry, medium-bodied wine offers complexity and freshness. Citrus and some vegetal, grassy notes dominate on the palate, the finish displaying the pithiness of grapefruit and a mineral quality. Serve it with pan-fried halibut garnished with a lemon caper reduction. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink now
Agricolas Costera 2009
DOC Cannonau di Sardegna $17.95 (99028) 14.0% alcohol
An appealing, enjoyable wine, this blend—principally Grenache—is fragrant with ripe cherry/berry fruit, spice and a whiff of red licorice. The fruit replays with great concentration on the palate with notes of vanilla and spiced toast adding to the experience. Fine structure and balance are reflected in the refreshingly dry, fruity finish. Approachable and well priced. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Leonardi Chianti Riserva 2007
DOCG Chianti $19.95 (164707) 13.0% alcohol
A straightforward fruity wine, this Chianti offers consistency from the first whiff to the mid-length finish. Ripe berry fruit, spice and pleasant notes of toast are balanced by fresh acidity and ripe tannins. Enjoy it with pizza or spaghetti Bolognese. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2008
IGT Toscana $33.95 (727636) 14.0% alcohol
This has a seductive intriguing nose—floral notes, mineral, nuances of spice and vanilla intermingle with ripe cherry and berry fruit. On the palate, this dry, mid-weight Sangiovese-dominated red exhibits lovely balance, fine acidity, well-integrated tannin and fresh cherry/berry fruit. The lingering finish offers a hint of toast. This is a lovely wine to share with friends over the holiday season or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Terre Nere Rosso di Montalcino 2007
DOC Montalcino $17.95 (249524) 13.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this balanced Sangiovese delivers good value. Enjoy the intricate play of aromas—smoke, red fruit, spice, dried herbs and notes of toast. Dry and medium bodied, the rich, sweetly spiced fruit is balanced by a dash of white pepper, fresh texture and ripe tannin. The lively fruit finish freshens the palate bringing you back for another sip. Pour with roasted root vegetable ragout or a hearty meat stew. (Susan Desjardins)

*** drink or cellar
Monte Zovo ‘Sa’Solin’ Ripasso Valpolicella 2009
DOC Valpolicella $17.95 (650713) 14.5% alcohol
This Ripasso-styled red—often thought of as Amarone’s little brother—dishes up aromas of spice, savoury herbs and espresso roast. Sour cherry and tangy cranberry pervade the palate and crisp, dry aftertaste garnished with kirsch liqueur. It’s mid weight and nicely textured—courtesy the Ripasso method—sporting a racy, mid-length finish. Pair with meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Quinta da Veiga ‘Casa das Mouras’ Reserva 2005
DOC Douro $18.95 (244756)
Aged 12 months in French oak, this deep-ruby blend offers evolved aromas of mature fruit, leather, vanilla and spice. Dry and mid weight, the lovely smooth texture flows across the palate offering an array of flavours—plum, blackberry, notes of dried fruit, sweet spice and cedar. Well integrated and balanced, the mid-length finish is pleasantly spicy. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Consignment Wine


****1/2 drink now
Cantine Polvanera Aglianico 2008
IGT Puglia, Italy $18.65 13.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips wildly in your favour. Plum, cedar and exotic spice aromas segue palate-coating, ripe, juicy fruit with dark briary berry and spice-laden black plum to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied and well balanced with a silky smooth texture, excellent structure and wonderful moderating acidity throughout. There’s ripe supple tannin and oodles of dark cherry, black licorice and berry fruit on the lengthy aftertaste. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Cantine Polvanera Primitivo 2008
IGT Puglia, Italy $15.30 14.0% alcohol

This is charming Primitivo offering terrific value. Spice, tobacco and wood smoke on the nose it dishes up a gorgeous wash of red cherry, ripe mulberry and dried currant on the palate. Its medium bodied with good mouth feel finishing in a blaze of dry, well-balanced fruit flavour on the palate. The finish lingers closing with lip-smacking sour cherry and ripe, dark berry fruit. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan