November 26, 2011 Vintages Release
Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:- Susan’s Selections — Segura Viudas ‘Brut Reserva Heredad’ Cava @ 4½ stars under Sparkling Wine and Reif Estate Vidal Icewine 2008 @ 4½ stars under Icewine
- Vic’s Picks — Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 @ 5 stars under France: Red Wine and Masi ‘Mazzano’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004 @ 5 stars under Italy: Red Wine
- Best Buys $16.95 and under — Emilio Lustau ‘East India Solera’ Sherry under Fortified Wine: Sherry; Alamos Chardonnay 2010 under Argentina: White Wine; Benmarco Malbec 2009 and Las Moras ‘Black Label’ Bonarda 2008 under Argentina: Red Wine; Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Pinot Noir 2008 under New in LCBO Portfolio
This winecurrent newsletter reviews wines in the order of the Main Release then in various categories following that. By clicking on the LCBO number (in brackets) in each review, you can search store inventories to find the store nearest you with stock. Stores usually have stock posted by Friday before the release date and many stock shelves late on that Friday.
Main Release
Liqueur
St-Germain ‘Delice de Sureau’ Liqueur Artisanale
France $49.95 (180695) 20.0% alcohol
If your desire is to inspire and captivate, then this elderflower liqueur was crafted for you! First up, the bottle’s in an Art Deco style. Then there’s the process required to transform these ephemeral spring flowers into this exotic liqueur. Open, pour, and the aromas fairly leap from the glass—stone fruit, honeyed melon, expressive white floral notes and a hint of anise. It’s decadent, richly textured with aromas replaying on the palate augmented with a whiff of tinned apricots. All that rich flavour and texture is lovingly balanced with fine acidity. The warm finish is luscious and long lasting. Perfection on its own, but destined for martinis. (Susan Desjardins)
Fortified Wine: Port
Grant Burge ‘10 Year Old’ Tawny
Barossa Valley, South Australia $30.95 (058388) 19.0% alcohol
This is versatile and simply scrumptious; pour with blue-veined or aged, hard cheese, crème brulée or crème caramel, on its own as dessert. Robust aromas spill from the glass with spice and nutty nuances galore. A fleshy, generously textured river of peel marmalade, spice cake, raisin and mocha coat the palate infusing the delectable, lengthy finish. (Vic Harradine)
Fortified Wine: Sherry
Emilio Lustau ‘East India Solera’ Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $16.95 (713636) 375 mL 20.0% alcohol
When you spot ‘Lustau’ on a wine label, it’s akin to a gold seal of approval. This perennial favourite—it’s been some time since last spotted—is showing toffee, raisin and caramel on the nose coupled with a most scrumptious mélange of sweet fig, raisin and nutty flavours. Dense and intense, deftly balanced, the effect is amazing. Serve this dessert wine chilled; either on its own or matched to crème caramel, crème brûlée or any manner of dark spiced fruit cake. Stock up and drink over the next two years. (Vic Harradine)
Icewine
Inniskillin Riesling Icewine 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $69.95 375 mL (558288) 9.0% alcohol
Vigorous aromas of honeyed apricot and spiced tropical fruit provide segue for a palate-drenching wash of full-bodied, concentrated flavour—lemon chiffon pie, orange marmalade, spiced fruit flan and apple strudel. It’s layered and complex with just enough acidity providing a lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with foie gras, fruit flan or drink on its own as dessert. (Vic Harradine)
Reif Estate Vidal Icewine 2008
VQA Niagara River $24.95 (544791) 200 ml 10% alcohol
Deep gold with an amber hue, it’s produced from 26-year-old Vidal vines. Expressive aromas entice—honey, orange liqueur and orchard fruit along with apricot and nectarine. There’s a rich, luscious, honeyed texture and fabulous balance of sweet fruit and fresh, tangy acidity. Flavours of ripe, tree fruit and crème caramel are matched with a lifted note of zesty, orange rind. The appealing contrast of the opulent texture and the refreshing tang carry through on the long-lasting finish. Enjoy on its own or with strong cheese. (Susan Desjardins)
Champagne
Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $39.95 (924654) 12.0% alcohol
This has an attractive nose of mineral, floral and heady citrus notes. There’s a lovely attack on the palate with a rush of white grapefruit and green apple flavours infused with spice and mineral nuances. It’s medium in weight and texture and offers a lingering finish that’s zesty and clean. There’s enough oomph for it to be paired with light appetizers and the attractive price allows it to be served as the welcoming wine at large gatherings. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
Segura Viudas ‘Heredad Reserva’ Brut Cava
Spain $29.95 (558825) 12.0% alcohol
Golden, with some green notes, this limited-production Cava, a blend of the first pressing of estate-grown Macabeo and Parellada, displays depth and lovely balance. Intense aromas of pear, citrus and toasted butter pastry entice. Dry, bright and fresh, it has a refined creamy mousse and a lively, crisp texture. Rich flavours of Bosc pear and lemon-lime wash across the palate and linger on the clean, persistent finish. A sparkling wine of presence and weight in an elegant hand-blown bottle with a pewter crest and base, it presents well as a gift or served at any holiday gathering. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: White Wine
Stratus Gewürztraminer 2009
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $32.00 (251447) 13.5% alcohol
A gusher of aromas soar from the glass—honey, stone fruit, rosewater, spice and elusive tropical notes. Green gold, the wine is dry, medium-full bodied displaying a satiny texture complemented with fresh acidity. Intensely flavourful, its floral character married with rich ripe fruit and exotic spice, the wine finishes long and smooth. Enjoy it with liver terrine or prosciutto with melon. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: Red Wine
13th Street Gamay Noir 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (177824) 12.5% alcohol
Smoky, spicy, displaying concentrated dark fruit aromas, this is a dry, mid-weight wine with a nice crisp texture, concentrated flavours of blackberry and boysenberry, earthy notes and hints of herbs adding intrigue and complexity. The fresh acidity and perceptible tannins create a fine frame for a bright juicy finish. Enjoy it with chicken pot pie. (Susan Desjardins)
Calamus ‘Cosmic Red’ 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (258129) 12.4% alcohol
Well made, well paced and well… delicious. Showcasing sweet ripe fruit and substantial texture on the palate, this delivers a showy mélange of dark berry fruit and red cherry adorned by kitchen spice and toasty notes. It’s light-medium bodied and nicely balanced finishing with a lengthy well-balanced surge of red and black currant, mulberry and spice-laden cranberry tart. Sips well on its own and poured well with grilled T-bone, burgers or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)
Okanagan Valley, BC: Red Wine
Blasted Church Merlot 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $38.95 (255745) 13.9% alcohol
The whimsical cartoon-like characters gracing the labels on Blasted Church bottles belie the serious quality of the wine within. This deep ruby Merlot is approachable yet substantial, starting with the aromas of toast, spice, dried herbs and ripe cherry/berry fruit that greet the nose. That concentrated fruit replays on the smooth textured palate, the toast and sweet spice carrying through on the long well-balanced finish. Enjoy it now with a hearty meat ragout, or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
California: White Wine
Beringer Chardonnay 2010
Napa Valley $24.95 (084988) 14.1% alcohol
The price-quality balance makes this a compelling buy as a California-styled Chardonnay with complexity, balance and lots of charm—poured perfectly with stuffed, roast chicken or turkey. Vanilla, tropical fruit and nutty nuances on the nose, a tangy wash of citrus and pineapple mingle with spiced tropical fruit throughout. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a long, mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)
Kistler ‘Sonoma Mountain’ Chardonnay 2009
Sonoma Mountain, Sonoma Valley $72.95 (183921) 14.1% alcohol
This ranks with Grand Cru Burgundy in quality at a much better price—terroir driven, single clone, unfined and unfiltered, wild-yeast inoculated, barrel-fermented in French oak and aged sur lie. Spiced apple, mineral and nutty aromas presage a glorious layered, complex river of delectable and tangy citrus, ripe white peach and sweet tropical fruit caressing the palate in waves. It’s medium-full bodied with smooth as satin texture and a lingering, well-balanced aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Liberty School Chardonnay 2008
Central Coast $18.95 (960120) 13.5% alcohol
This is a lovely, lighter-styled California Chard that’s crisp and refreshing, boasting plenty of nerve and verve. Apple, pear and nectarine on the nose, the palate’s treated to a racy wash of Granny Smith apple and lemon citrus interlaced with ripe pit fruit and spice with toasty, nutty notes peeking though. It’s nicely textured and balanced with a dollop of tropical fruit on the mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)
J. Lohr ‘Carol’s Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $27.95 (246918) 13.5% alcohol
This stood out in a line-up of well-made, pricy California reds—it dishes up robust flavours and good carpentry with the price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. Dark berry fruit, toasty char and espresso roast aromas herald a full-bodied, fully textured stream of flavour—black currant, tar, licorice and cassis. The lingering aftertaste has good tang for balance, ripe tannin for structure and a layer of dark chocolate for interest. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Sonoma County $21.95 (990440) 13.5% alcohol
Dry, medium-full bodied and round, there’s consistency from the first sniff through the lingering finish—look for concentrated cassis and blackberry, spiced vanilla and the tang of black licorice. Well-integrated tannins and fine acidity balance the dense dark fruit, delivering a flavourful yet well-balanced taste experience. A good choice for a nice rare steak. (Susan Desjardins)
Oregon: Red Wine
Erath ‘Willamette Valley Estate Selection’ Pinot Noir 2008
Willamette Valley $41.95 (984625) 13.0% alcohol
An absolutely gorgeous wine, this Pinot walks the line of cool and warm climate with panache. Lovely floral notes and aromas of sweetly spiced red fruit lift from the glass. Dry, light to mid-weight, it’s bright with lively acidity, tangy ripe red fruit and delicious spiciness. The fine finish is fruity yet refreshing. Well balanced and cellarable over the medium term, it would play well with braised duck breast in a dried cherry reduction. (Susan Desjardins)
Washington State: Red Wine
Bombing Range Red 2007
Horse Heaven Hills $19.95 (233460) 14.8% alcohol
Here’s a hi-octane, crowd-pleasing fruit bomb with just enough acidity for balance and a lengthy, layered aftertaste. Spice, cedar and mixed field berry fruit on the nose, it delivers a concentrated, persistent stream of fruit-forward flavour on the palate and through the long finish—juicy, Bing cherry, dark ripe briary berry interweaving with notes of well-integrated oak. It’s spice-laden, mid-full weight and good value. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: White Wine
Alamos Chardonnay 2010
Mendoza $13.95 (801571) 13.5% alcohol
Fashioned from hand-harvested fruit, this well-made medium-bodied Chard displays good balance and ripe orchard fruit. It’s aromatic, fresh and flavourful—toasty notes from well-integrated French oak, apple, pear, citrus and a whiff of vanilla on the palate with a hint of spice on the dry finish. It earned its final half-star for value and matches well with grilled chicken or pork dishes. (Susan Desjardins)
Trivento ‘Golden Reserve’ Chardonnay 2009
Mendoza $19.95 (243220) 14.0% alcohol
Piquant spice, citrus and tropical fruit on the nose, there’s nicely balanced, tangy flavours of green apple and lemongrass mingling with tropical fruit and white peach on the palate. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with well-integrated oak sporting a fair price-quality ratio. Best sipped on its own, coming up a tad short on the finish. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
Benmarco Malbec 2009
Mendoza $16.95 (657601) 14.0% alcohol
Tangy, racy and well balanced, this rips from the glass with lifted aromas of black berry fruit, aromatic bitters, black licorice and herbs and spice. A layered, balanced fruity wave of ripe sweet mulberry, black currant and racy red currant cuts a wide swath across the palate and through the tangy, delicious aftertaste. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and worthy of a second look—good value here. (Vic Harradine)
Las Moras ‘Black Label’ Bonarda 2008
San Juan $15.95 (260901) 14.0% alcohol
Gets my vote for best-value red in this impressive line up—it’s layered, structured and über delicious. Oaky, smoky and a mélange of dark berry fruit on the nose, there’s a lovely stream of cassis, black cherry and mocha underpinned by ripe, supple tannin and moderated by good acidity. It’s medium bodied and generously textured with a lingering fruity, savoury aftertaste. I really like this grape—pick up a few and let me know what you think. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: red Wine
De Martino Legado ‘Réserva’ Carmenère 2008
Maipo Valley $15.95 (236059) 14.0% alcohol
Displaying violet hues, this wine entices with aromas of dark fruit, spice, vanilla and an earthy autumnal note. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s glossy in texture, subtly structured, lively yet round on the palate and loaded with fresh red and black berry fruit. Hints of coffee, pepper and spice linger on the lasting tasty finish. A good choice for a meaty pizza, it gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)
Errazuriz ‘Wild Ferment’ Pinot Noir 2010
Casablanca Valley $19.95 (510396) 13.5% alcohol
A semi-transparent ruby, this wine displays a cool-climate character, with an attractive nose of cherry/berry fruit, earthy notes and a trace of minerality. Dry, medium bodied, the texture is crisp, the red fruit tangy, the notions of spice and earth persisting on the finish. Pair it with grilled salmon or chicken with herbed roasted tomatoes. (Susan Desjardins)
Australia: Red Wine
Barossa Valley Estate ‘E & E Black Pepper’ Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $89.95 (731620) 15.0% alcohol
Spiced plum, mulberry and earthy aromas provide segue for a layered and persistent wash of racy red currant and dried berry fruit on the palate. It’s medium bodied and a bit taut, with still-grippy tannin and a lingering, dry aftertaste of raisined dark berry fruit and prunes—a TCA-tainted bottle? (Vic Harradine)
Kaesler ‘Stonehorse’ Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $22.95 (006551) 16.0% alcohol
Über hi-octane and loaded with sweet jammy fruit, it’s a crowd-pleasing, burly, fruit bomb not for the faint of heart. Aromas of mocha, ripe berry fruit and spice are followed by palate-coating, rich luscious flavours of mulberry, black currant and kirsch liqueur. It’s full bodied and fully flavoured throughout with a lavishly concentrated aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
Momo Pinot Gris 2010
Marlborough $18.95 (163535) 14.5% alcohol
Pleasing, alluring aromas of luscious lemon curd and sun-ripened orchard fruit drift from the glass. Fruity, medium bodied and wonderfully smooth, spice garnishes the ripe pear and baked apple, the lasting juicy finish displaying the sweetness of residual sugar. A good match for your favorite spiced East Indian dish. (Susan Desjardins)
New Zealand: Red Wine
Kim Crawford ‘Small Parcel Corner 50’ Merlot 2008
Hawkes Bay $29.95 (252320) 14.5% alcohol
Aged 16 months in French and American oak, this ruby-toned single-vineyard wine offers rich aromas of plum, black berries, spice and underlying earthiness. Dry, ample, full and well structured, the dark fruit comes to the fore on the palate and through the finish, sweet spice and notes of espresso adding interest and complexity. Good to go now with braised short ribs or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Oyster Bay ‘Hawkes Bay’ Merlot 2010
Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand $18.95 (692343) 13.5% alcohol
Oyster Bay has two wildly popular Vintages Essentials—Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay—this Merlot may be the pearl in the oyster. Black spice-laden plum, wisps of wood smoke and espresso roast aromas provide segue to an über-smooth and mellow mouthful of dark, juicy berry fruit, plummy tones and sweet, ripe black cherry. It’s medium bodied with creamy texture and a balanced fruit-forward aftertaste. Versatile at the table, it pairs well with roast chicken, leg of lamb or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: Red Wine
Flagstone ‘Writer’s Block’ Pinotage 2009
WO Western Cape $19.95 (243337) 14.0% alcohol
Dark, tarry aromas open this mid-weight, well-textured Pinotage. Tarry black plum and spice-laden cherry ride a bracing wave of acidity interwoven with nuances of espresso roast and herbs. It finishes lengthy and tangy in a blaze of black, tarry berry fruit and cassis adorned with hints of charred oaky tones. This pours well with smoked, grilled back ribs slathered in spicy sauce. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Lucien Albrecht ‘Réserve’ Gewürztraminer 2009
AOC Alsace $18.95 (926931) 13.5% alcohol
The aromas of this peach-toned wine fairly leap from the glass—floral, tropical, sweet preserved fruit and spice. Rich, luscious, off-dry, with a fine citrusy backbone, the flavours are true to the aromas, the almost flamboyant fruit and spice lingering on the succulent finish. A great match for your favorite spicy food. (Susan Desjardins)
France: Red Wine
Château Canteloup 2004
AOC Médoc $14.95 (243923) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of kitchen spice, tobacco leaf and dark berry fruit are precursors to a nicely balanced, medium-bodied wash of red cherry, spiced black plum and racy red currant. The lengthy, layered finish is underpinned by a firm tannin structure with moderating acidity bolstering black currant and sour cherry flavours mingling with savoury herbs. Pour with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine Pierre Fil ‘Cuvée Elisyces’ Minervois 2007
AOC Minervois $19.95 (251504) 14.0% alcohol
Displaying depth and density, this rich blend offers a nose of ripe evolved dark fruit, floral notes and hints of dried herbs and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s well put together, the tannins well-integrated, the acidity in balance with the rich dark plummy fruit, notes of spice and roasted nuts carrying through the finish. Approachable and flavourful, try it with lamb stew. (Susan Desjardins)
Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $89.95 (711317) 14.5% alcohol
Gilt-edged and always worth picking up on faith, this is a dazzling expression of one of the iconic wines of the world. Cedar, sprigs of herbs, graphite and black currant on the nose, there’s a mélange of concentrated, complex flavours on the palate with cassis, briary berry, spice-laden black plum and juicy, tangy, black Bing cherry to the fore. It’s rich, luscious and full-bodied with deft balance, well-integrated oak, perceptible tannin and a lingering delectable aftertaste. Drinking well 2015 to +2025. (Vic Harradine)
La Ferme du Mont ‘Le Ponnant’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $17.95 (171371) 14.5% alcohol
This is a great value, produced from old vines Grenache, Syrah and Mouvèdre, a classic Rhône blend. Ruby hued, it offers an appealing nose of sweet spice, black cherry and raspberry. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s subtly structured and loaded with fresh berry fruit garnished with spice and vanilla. Round, smooth, mouth filling, the fresh acidity is a match for the fruit, the finish lengthy and pleasantly dry. Take a cart, run, don’t walk. (Susan Desjardins)
Italy: White Wine
Grotta del Sole Falanghina dei Campi Flegrei 2009
DOC Campi Flegrei $15.95 (247940) 13.0% alcohol
A pretty straw tone, this wine entices with appealing aromas of marzipan, pear and green apple. Dry, medium bodied, softly textured and displaying restrained acidity and ripe orchard fruit on the palate, it’s approachable and flavourful, finishing nice and fruity. Try it with lighter white meats or rainbow trout. (Susan Desjardins)
Italy: Red Wine
La Vite ‘Lucente’ 2009
IGT Toscana $89.95 (979062) 14.5% alcohol
This affordable baby brother to ‘Lucé’ should appeal to first-time buyers and collectors alike—it’s robust and chockfull of delicious fruit. Aromas of leather, sandalwood and blackberry preserve dominate the nose while the palate’s awash in rich, ripe cassis and black briary berry interwoven with fennel, racy red currant and red cherry. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy finish underpinned by perceptible tannin. Drink 2014 to 2020 with grilled steak or osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)
Valiano Poggio Teo Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $17.95 (250563) 13.5% alcohol
There’s good value in this smooth and silky, rich, layered Chianti. Underbrush and cherry/berry fruit aromas herald a riveting stream of racy fruit—red currant and sour cherry balanced off nicely with cassis and kirsch liqueur on the mid palate and juicy finish. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and delivers a price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. Pour with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
Ascheri ‘Fontanelle’ Barbera d’Alba 2009
DOC Alba $17.95 (982462) 14.0% alcohol
Spice, ripe berries, vanilla and sweet toast tantalize the nose. A softly textured wine, with dark fruit, spice and toast to the fore it’s dry, medium bodied, subtle in acidity and approachable, with just a hint of dark chocolate gracing the fruity finish. Easy drinking, it would work well with charcuterie or with gnocchi in a tomato sauce. (Susan Desjardins)
Lungarotti Rubesco Sangiovese & Canaiolo 2007
DOC Rosso di Torgiano $17.95 (247817) 13.0% alcohol
A wine that has been around for decades, the Rubesco is dry yet fruity, medium bodied, velvety in texture and wonderfully smooth on the palate. Ripe fruit, spice, pepper and vanilla are consistent from the first whiff through the fine fruity finish. Balanced, well crafted and flavourful, this is a well-priced approachable wine that will cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Masi ‘Campolongo Di Torbe’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $99.95 (548677) 16.0% alcohol
The name ‘Masi’, and a mere handful of others, is an almost guarantee of quality wine at a fair price, this red supports that. Toasty notes, spice cake and espresso roast on the nose, the rich and luscious flavours run over the palate and through the lingering aftertaste—black plum compote, deep rich cherry and black raspberry adorned with a tell-tale Amarone bite on the aftertaste. This is full bodied and full of flavour with a solid tannin underpinning and wonderful acidity. Drink 2014 to 2022. (Vic Harradine)
Masi ‘Mazzano’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $99.95 (215764) 16.0% alcohol
Wood smoke, raisin and fennel aromas introduce a mid weight, generously textured gem. It brims with rich concentrated flavours washing in persistent waves with oodles of spice cake, rich dark cherry and briary berry on the palate. It showcases great balance, good structure and plenty of charm. It finishes lengthy with dark fruit flavours mingling with bittersweet chocolate and dark coffee. Drinking well now to 2025. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
Bodegas Berceo ‘Gonzalo de Berceo Reserva’ 2005
DOCa Rioja $20.95 (246744) 13.5% alcohol
Aromatic and alluring on the nose, look for exotic incense interlaced with cherry and dark berry fruit aromas. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured sporting a solid core of ripe fruit flavour, predominantly cherry and blueberry mingling with cassis and tangy black plum. It’s well balanced with a long, fruity finish melding with ripe tannin and good moderating acidity. Pour with chorizo and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)
Miguel Torres ‘Mas La Plana’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
DO Penedès $46.95 (129676) 14.5% alcohol
Much anticipated every vintage, this ’07 single-vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon doesn’t disappoint—it’s rich and concentrated showcasing elegance and charm throughout. Leather, cedar and savoury herbs meld with lilac and berry fruit on the nose. A rich amalgam of dark briary berries, cassis and red and black currants wash the palate on a medium bodied, nicely textured frame. The mid-length aftertaste is mellow and smooth adorned with a layer of dark coffee and earthy tones. (Vic Harradine)
Palacio de Sada Crianza 2006
DO Navarra $14.95 (246736) 13.5% alcohol
Aged 12 months in French and American oak, this blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo and Cabernet is produced from the fruit of decades-old vines. On the nose, smoke, hints of leather, vanilla and ripe fruit. Dry, medium bodied, supple, the tannins are well integrated, the acidity still fresh, the berry fruit mature. Notes of spice and toast persist on the finish of this smooth enjoyable wine. It gets an extra half star for value and would be a good choice for relaxed holiday meals. (Susan Desjardins)
New in Vintages
Henry of Pelham Riesling Icewine 2009
VQA Short Hills Bench $49.95 (430561) 10.5% alcohol
It’s $44.95 a limited time offer. Superbly crafted with a clean yellow-gold hue, this delicious icewine offers enticing aromas—tangy apricot preserve, hints of dried fruit, honey, dried citrus peel, lime and more. Beautifully balanced on the palate with notes of mandarin orange, apricot, honey and biscuit embraced by a fine spine of lively acidity, it assures an exquisite and lasting taste experience. Sip on its own or savour with Glengarry Celtic Blue cheese. You can also cellar long term. A Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores. (Susan Desjardins)
New in the LCBO Portfolio
Cavit ‘Collection’ Pinot Grigio 2010
IGT delle Venezie, Italy $11.65 (99218) 12.0% alcohol
Floral and citrus aromas intro this light-medium bodied, nicely textured, crisp, refreshing white. It’s brimming with flavour—melon, grapefruit and racy citrus. It finishes dry, looking for a large bowl of mussels steamed in white wine sauce. It’s value-laden deserving a spot in your cart. (Vic Harradine)
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.55 (195511) 12.5% alcohol
Well priced, from one of Niagara’s elite producers. Aromas of exotic spice and herbs, cedar and spiced black plum presage a medium-bodied, creamy-textured river of Bing cherry, ripe black berry and racy cranberry to the fore. It showcases a balanced aftertaste that’s brimming with spiced, dark berry fruit, plummy notes and plenty of charm. This pours well alongside white pizza, roast chicken or smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)
Corona de Aragona ‘Old Vines’ Garnacha 2009
DO Cariñena, Spain $11.95 (253591) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty, earthy and red berry on the nose, this is balanced and brimming with fruit-forward flavours with red berry, cherry and black currant flavours mingling with spiced black plum and sprigs of herbs. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a supple tannin underpinning. Good drinking now poured with spaghetti Bolognese or meat-laden pizza, earning a ½ star for value. (Vic Harradine)
Concilio Pinot Noir 2008
IGT Vigneti Delle Dolomite, Italy $11.95 (257030) 13.0% alcohol
This over delivers on flavour and price-quality ratio. Cherry, dark berry fruit and spice on the nose, it washes over the palate with delightful waves of sweet and tang—ripe berry fruit and excellent acidity. It’s balanced and robust with a flavour-packed finish. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine’ Brut Non Vintage
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (217521) 12.0% alcohol
This was aged in bottle 30 months after secondary fermentation. It’s a stylish, classic blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir showcasing aromas of toasted brioche, stone fruit, citrus and a mineral quality. Dry and medium bodied, there’s ample creamy mousse and a silky texture. Tangy fruity notes and clean minerality offer subtle balance through a long-lasting, lightly toasty finish. Great for sipping during the holiday season or add a splash of icewine for a Kir Catharine. (Susan Desjardins)
New in Ontario Wineries
Inniskillin ‘East West Series’ Chardonnay 2010
Niagara, Ontario and Okanagan B.C. Vineyards $16.95 13.5% alcohol
Showcasing the ripe fruit of a warm Ontario vintage and the lively acidity from a cool one in B.C., this wine was aged 8 months in oak. Buttery, toasty, spiced aromas of fresh-from-the-oven apple crisp drift from the glass. Dry, medium bodied, with a smooth texture, the flavours are an intriguing mélange—ripe orchard fruit, hints of pineapple, a squeeze of citrus and a dash of white pepper. Pleasant, approachable and nicely balanced, it finishes warm and spicy. Enjoy with lemon-tarragon chicken and butternut squash risotto. Available from Inniskillin or the 162 Winerack stores across Ontario. (Susan Desjardins)
Inniskillin ‘Legacy’ Riesling 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (988165) 11.5% alcohol
Fruit salad with high notes of white peach and honeyed pear on the nose, there’s an explosion of flavour on the palate with sweet Turkish delight, racy citrus and tangy yellow plum. It’s medium bodied with a silky smooth mouth feel and a sizzling aftertaste that’s racy, crisp and refreshing. A limited-production, single-vineyard, tour de force that winemaker, Bruce Nicholson, crafted by hand from the best fruit available in a terrific vintage. Available from Inniskillin or the 162 Winerack stores across Ontario. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic and Susan