Winecurrent

October 29, 2011 Vintages Release

Is it legal for an Ontario resident to bring home wine from another province? Can you legally have a case of wine shipped to you from a winery in another province? You might be surprised at the answers… Read More

Tim Hanni, Master of Wine, Chef and Certified Wine Educator, appears in Ottawa.

He’ll deliver an entertaining, educational, rule-bending ‘Why You Like What You Like’ seminar on how YOUR ‘Taste Sensitivity Quotient’ affects YOUR personal wine style choices. You’ll also experience interactions between wine and food and learn flavour balancing techniques that will ensure the wine YOU love tastes great with the food YOU choose. Total cost $46.19 using your winecurrent discount.


If you’re in the area the evening of Tuesday, November 15, 2011, you’ll want to register now. Admission includes a seminar with Tim Hanni, an opportunity to taste Lifford Wine Agency wines, hors d'oeuvres by Algonquin’s Restaurant International and, as a winecurrent subscriber, a 10% discount on the admission price. Click here for full event details, to receive your discount and to register. There are a limited number of seats. 


Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • Best Buys $10 and under – Partager ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 and Partager ‘Reserve’ Merlot 2010 both 4 stars $9.95 found under New in LCBO Portfolio following the Main Release
  • Best Buys $15 and under – Et Cetera Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Sonoma County - 13th Street ‘Red Palette’ 2010 VQA Niagara - Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2008 Argentina - Mas des Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition Blanc’ 2010 France (all 4 stars $14.95) - Casa Castillo Monastrell 2009 Spain 4 stars at $13.95 - Sabor Real Tempranillo ‘Viñas Centenarias’ 2007 Spain 4½ stars $15.
This winecurrent newsletter reviews +60 wines and begins with a feature from the Vintages Release catalogue on Sonoma County, Califiornia followed by wines reviewed in order of the Main Release then New in the LCBO Portfolio. By clicking on the LCBO number (in brackets) in each review, you can search store inventories to find the store nearest you with stock. Stores usually have stock posted on the Friday before the release date and many stock shelves late on that Friday. There’s also wine reviewed under New in Ontario Wineries and Consignment Wines.

Sonoma Feature

****1/2 drink or cellar
Benzinger Family Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Sonoma County $29.95 (597237) 14.5% alcohol
Dense almost purple, this powerful wine offers a chorus of aromas—vanilla, smoky toast, cassis and spice box. Dry, full bodied, the rich dark fruit is framed by perceptible tannins and fine acidity, garnished with appealing notes of tangy cracked pepper and sweet spice. It delivers a lasting flavourful aftertaste and would cellar 3-5 years or play well with lamb or beef. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Et Cetera Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Sonoma County $14.95 (264812) 14.2% alcohol
Tropical fruit, lemon curd and a mineral element are the principal aromas of this juicy refreshing wine. Dry, medium bodied and clean, it’s crisp with notes of grapefruit and mineral, finishing bright and tangy. There’s an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Sebastiani Pinot Noir 2008
Sonoma Coast $19.95 (14233) 13.5% alcohol
Semi-opaque ruby, the nose proffers attractive notes of cherry/berry, toast and cocoa. Dry, smooth and round, this mid-weight wine has a silky texture and a replay of ripe fruit. The charming notes of sweet spice and cocoa dress up the mid-length finish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Frei Brothers ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $23.95 (38075) 13.9% alcohol
With a rich family history reaching back to the late 1800’s—it’s no longer family owned, now owned by Gallo—those ancient vineyards are still part of the winery’s holdings. Rich and luscious with a lengthy, juicy aftertaste, charred toast, underbrush and dark berry aromas roll readily from the glass. It’s medium bodied with a generous mouth feel and a cornucopia of flavours with dark berry fruit, plummy tones and cassis to the fore interlaced with fennel and toasty notes among them. The finish lingers with great fruit and good balance. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Simi ‘Landslide Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $44.95 (67744) 14.5% alcohol
Toasty oak, mixed spice and cherry aromas provide segue to a tangy, juicy wash of black cherry, pomegranate and dark plum interwoven with espresso roast and nuances of bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium bodied with a finish that’s laced with grainy tannin—tuck away until 2015. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gallo Family ‘Frei Ranch Vineyard’ Zinfandel 2009
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $37.95 (555599) 15.5% alcohol
This wine is a value-laden, blockbuster Zin that’s surprisingly, given the alcohol %, well balanced and nicely structured with each sip as good as the previous. Briary berry, kitchen spice and toasty oak on the nose, it swaggers over the palate with a gusher of flavour—black currant jam, kirsch liqueur and spiced, juicy black Bing cherry. It’s full bodied and fully textured with fruit-filled flavour underpinned by supple tannin. Pour after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Crossbarn Chardonnay 2008
Sonoma Mountain, Sonoma Valley $21.95 (235945) 14.2% alcohol
This is a beautifully crafted, substantial wine, deep gold with a hint of peach skin, the nose rich with stone fruit, apple, citrus and subtle notes of spiced toast. Dry, full bodied, rich, creamy, and generous, the array of flavours bathes the palate and carries through on the harmonious lasting finish. Pair with creamy pasta with chicken or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

**** cellar
Kenwood ‘Jack London Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Sonoma Mountain, Sonoma Valley $34.95 (944843) 14.5% alcohol
With its striking label, this is a perennial favourite of mine, and with good reason—it’s perfumed, rich in flavour with oodles of charisma and charm. Spiced black plum, tapenade and mixed field berry fruit aromas provide intro to this mid-weight, nicely textured gem. Palate-coating, swashbuckling flavours of black cherry, black licorice and bramble berry persist through the lengthy well-balanced aftertaste. Still evolving tannin and perceptible oak demands two years in the cellar, or a three-hour aeration/decant for the impatient. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Is it legal for an Ontario resident to bring home wine from another province? Can you legally have a case of wine shipped to you from a winery in another province? You might be surprised at the answers… Read More

Champagne

****1/2 drink or cellar
Taittinger ‘Brut Réserve’ Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne $53.95 (814723) 12.5% alcohol 

From one of the great ‘Grand Marque’ Champagne houses—only 24 members—this is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Honeyed pear and green apple on the nose, it showcases a gorgeous attack of crisp refreshing flavours—white grapefruit, racy lemon and ripe white peach—carried along on an endless stream of fine-bead bubbles. The refreshing aftertaste is lengthy and spice-infused. It delivers excellent value. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now
Louis Bouillot ‘Perle Rare Brut’ Crémant de Bourgogne 2007
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (178137) 12.0% alcohol

Pale straw with a delicate yet abundant mousse, this vintage dry Crémant offers a lovely nose of stone fruit, honey melon, citrus and lightly toasted bread. Crisp acidity and lively minerality offer a fine counterpoint to the orchard fruit and citrus. A hint of the toasty lees lingers on the long vibrant finish. Pop the cork for any occasion! (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now
Cave Spring Chenin Blanc 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $17.95 (627315) 11.5% alcohol
Crisp apple, orange blossom, and honeyed citrus marry with minerality to create an attractive and alluring nose. There’s a lovely replay on the palate—apple to the fore—of this dry,vibrant, medium-bodied wine. The taste experience is akin to biting into a freshly picked apple, boasting that lovely balance of sweet and tang. What a great choice for the fall. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (89029) 10.0% alcohol
Clean and clear, this wine beckons with fragrant aromas of orchard fruit, lime, white flowers and a hint of mineral. Just off-dry yet fresh on the palate, there’s lemon-lime and green apple to the fore, the mineral note lingering on a long fresh finish. Serve it with spicy chicken or pork dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink now
13th Street ‘Red Palette’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (249458) 12.5% alcohol
Bright ruby, with grapey aromas, hints of spice and red fruits, this dry medium-bodied blend of Merlot and Gamay is bright and lively. Easy-drinking and juicy, it offers crisp acidity and ripe flavourful cherry/berry fruit right through the tasty finish. Enjoy it with cheese and charcuterie. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Megalomaniac ‘Big Mouth’ Merlot 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (67645) 13.9% alcohol
Well constructed and brimming with round, plush fruit flavour, this delivers a charming red that’s good to go now, especially when poured with rare roast of beef. Dark toast, espresso roast and ripe plummy tones dominate the aromas while the palate’s treated to a lovely, balanced wash of ripe, dark berry fruit, fennel and herbs. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a long, well-balanced dry aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Stratus ‘Wildass Red’ 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (86363) 12.5% alcohol
Smoke, oak and charred toast on the nose, it delivers balanced, richly textured waves of flavour—ripe juicy mulberry, sweet black currant preserve with peppery notes and good moderating acidity. Winemaker J.L. Proulx, a grape-blending magician, pointed his wand at this with terrific results. It’s mid weight, smooth and mellow with the ability to stand on its own or pair with dried-fruit stuffed pork tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Snoqualmire ‘Naked’ Chardonnay 2009
Columbia Valley, Washington State $16.95 (158501) 13.5% alcohol
This off-dry gem sports great balance, good mouth feel and a lingering mouth-watering finish. Spice, sweet herbs and orchard fruit aromas billow from the expressive nose. A steady stream of sweet and tang washes over the palate with ripe sweet pineapple, crisp apple and tangy citrus to the fore. The yin and yang on the refreshing aftertaste sets up a delightful pairing with butter chicken or spicy-ginger, baked fish steaks. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

**** drink now
Natura Chardonnay 2011
Casablanca Valley $15.95 (61895) 14.0% alcohol
Using organic cultivation to bring out the character of the terroir and the full expression of the grapes, Emiliana offers this unoaked refreshingly crisp Chardonnay. Dry, medium bodied, it proffers aromas of melon, peach, apple and citrus, delivering a zesty emphasis on the apple and citrus on the palate. Juicy and flavourful, with a hint of warmth on the finish, this is a great value. Shrimp salad with a lemon dressing, or grilled salmon anyone? (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2008
Argentina $14.95 (677559) 14.5% alcohol
You receive a wine handled with kid gloves and premium barrel treatment for your $15—hand-picked fruit from a single vineyard and aged ten months in 80% new French oak barrels, the balance in new American. Aromas of spice, char and black currant dominate the nose with flavours of red cherry, spiced black plum, oak and herbs streaming over the palate infusing the lengthy finish. There’s enough tannin lurking in this to warrant a two-hour aeration decant. Pour alongside rare-grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Joffré E. Hijas ‘Grand’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Uco Valley, Mendoza $16.95 (243212) 14.5% alcohol
Earthy/underbrush and spice-driven dark berry fruit aromas intro this mid-weight, extremely well-balanced Cab. It’s tangy and racy on entry and mid palate with red currant and sour cherry broadening out on the spice-laden aftertaste with cassis and ripe dark berry fruit. Ratchets up a notch or two poured with meat-laden pizza or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Laura Catena ‘Luca G Lot’ Pinot Noir 2009
Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza $27.95 (175570) 14.0% alcohol
Laura, an ER Doc in San Francisco, is Nicolás Catena’s daughter and the new face of the iconic Catena wine dynasty. Spice, minerality and herbs mingle with cherry and berry fruit on the piquant nose. Tangy sour cherry and ripe, sweet mulberry meld on the palate along with adornments of toasty oak and herb-laced black plum. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with great balance and a generous dollop of charm. Drinking well now. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink now
Aromo ‘Private Reserve’ Carmenère 2009
DO Maule Valley $12.95 (243535) 13.5% alcohol
Sporting concentrated aromas and flavours of blackberries, forest floor, mint, dried herbs and smoke, this is a steal that gets an extra half star for value. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s ripe, generous and tasty on the palate, showing notes of char on the mid-length finish. Try it with burgers or meat-based pizza. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Concha y Toro ‘Winemaker’s Lot 54 - Los Brujos Vineyard’ Syrah 2008
DO San Javier Valley, Maule Valley $16.95 (227496) 14.5% alcohol
Well paced, well priced and well… absolutely delicious. Concha y Toro was recently named the most-admired wine brand in the world. Aromas of wood smoke, aromatic bitters and gamy notes proved segue to concentrated and rich, palate-coating flavours with black currant, Bing cherry and kirsch liqueur to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied and silky smooth with a fruit-filled aftertaste that’s lengthy and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Haras De Pirque ‘Character’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenère 2007
Maipo Valley $18.95 (54502) 15.0% alcohol
Here’s a delicious red blend that opens with a gorgeous bouquet of alluring scents—exotic spice, licorice, mixed field berry fruit and toasty notes among them. The palate’s treated to a wash of well-balanced flavour—spice-infused black currant, tangy, juicy red berry fruit and sweet ripe cherry—persisting through the lengthy aftertaste. It’s medium bodied with deftly integrated oak, a plush mouth feel and offers good value. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Hungerford Hill ‘Fishcage’ Shiraz 2009
Hunter Valley, Southern New South Wales $13.95 (77958) 14.5% alcohol
There’s lots of wood smoke and espresso roast on the nose of this bistro-styled red. Flavours of red currant and dark cherry stream over the palate with keen focus and persistence. It’s mid weight, tangy and juicy throughout with a mid-length finish layering on savoury herbs and a gentle hint of tannin. Pour alongside veal parmigiana or penne pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Kilikanoon ‘Blocks Road’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Clare Valley, South Australia $29.95 (926790) 14.5% alcohol
Eucalyptus, dark berry fruit and mixed spice box aromas abound on the lifted nose of this balanced, cool-ish climate Cabernet. Mid weight and nicely textured, racy flavours of red cherry and spice-infused black plum dominate the palate mingling with savoury notes and nuances of earthiness. The mid-length finish replays off the palate. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Mitolo ‘Jester’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
McLaren Vale $21.95 (43224) 14.9% alcohol
Twenty percent of the hand-picked fruit was air-dried for 8 weeks, adding depth and texture to this ripe well-crafted Cab. A subtle earthiness and scent of spiced rose underlies the ripe berry fruit and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied and generous, the well-integrated tannins and refreshing acidity provide balance to the ripe spice-infused fruit. Long, fresh spicy on the finish, it’s looking for a nice juicy steak. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds ‘Bin 28 Kalimna’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $34.95 (422782) 14.5% alcohol
Mocha, notes of truffle and cherry aromas open this deftly balanced, full-bodied beauty—the 50th vintage of Bin 28. Classy and charming, the flavours of black plum compote and spice-infused dark berry fruit wash in waves. There’s good acidity for balance, the oak’s well integrated, there’s a good seven years of cellaring ahead of it and it’s quite good value. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2009
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (680983) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a medium-bodied, generously textured Gris that’s poured well as an aperitif or served alongside piri piri chicken. Lifted aromas of floral, slate and pit fruit roll from the glass. The palate and lengthy, refreshing finish are infused with spice, yellow plum and tropical fruit flavour—ripe sweet pineapple and melon. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hoopenburg ‘Integer’ Chardonnay 2007
WO Stellenbosch $21.95 (174672) 14.0% alcohol
Registering high on the Wow! scale, this rips from the glass with billowing aromas and a boatload of flavour. Sweet vanilla, wisps of nutty oak and ripe apple and pear aromas provide segue to a gusher of layered, palate-coating flavour that seems to build on the palate—apple pie spice, vanilla and a mélange of peach and pear mingling with lip-smacking citrus acidity. It’s mid weight with a plush mouth feel offering good value. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink now
Anne Boecklin ‘Réserve’ Gewürztraminer 2009
AOC Alsace $19.95 (141226) 12.5% alcohol
Pale gold, offering luscious perfumed aromas—floral, rosewater, spice and tropical fruits—this slightly off-dry wine is loaded with exotic fruit flavours—think mango and lychee—balanced with adequate acidity. Notes of citrus zest tantalize on the finish, matched with attractive residual sweetness. A good match for slightly spicy dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Jean-Max Roger ‘Cuvée G.C.’ Sancerre 2010
AOC Sancerre $25.95 (189126) 12.5% alcohol
Mineralality, grass and herbaceousness define the aromas on this well-focused, racy white. Lime zest and and racy lemon flavours are carried along on a laser-like spine of acidity. It’s light-medium bodied with a crisp, refreshing finish and pours extrememly well with sashimi, or prawn or scallop ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Marc Brédif Vouvray 2009
AOC Vouvray $20.95 (685362) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of beeswax, ripe apple and pear intro this slightly off-dry gem. There’s a huge wash of nectarine, pineapple and tangy citrus coating the palate. It’s medium bodied with a silky smooth mouth feel and lengthy well-balanced aftertaste. Perfect as an aperitif or welcoming wine, you can also pour, with very good effect, alongside skillet-seared spicy, garlic prawns. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Beaucastel ‘Coudoulet de Beaucastel Blanc’ 2010
AOC Côtes du Rhône $33.95 (48892) 13.5% alcohol
From the iconic Perrin family—members of the über-exclusive ‘Primum Familiae Vini’ (PFV) a.k.a. ‘First/best families of the wine’—this offers up a perfumed nose of honeysuckle, lemongrass and floral notes. A nicely balanced, medium-bodied river of honeyed pear and apple is balanced off with mouth-watering peel marmalade tang. The refreshing finish lingers. Give it a go with steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter or supermarket rotisserie chicken. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Mas des Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition Blanc’ 2010
AOC Costières de Nîmes $14.95 (701094) 13.5% alcohol
A blend of the classic whites of the southern Rhône—Grenache Blanc, Roussane, Marsanne and Viognier—this wine is fragrant with floral notes, stone fruit and sweet citrus. Dry, medium bodied, the floral note persists on the palate, mingling with orchard fruit, herbes de Provence and white pepper. Lively acidity ensures a fine balance and a refreshing, fruity finish. A fine value. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château Hauchat 2009
AOC Fronsac $14.95 (123489) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of savoury herbs, kitchen spice and leather intro this value-packed red blend. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and fruit-forward with a flavourful wash of bramble berry, spice, dark roast coffee and nuances of licorice splashing over the palate and persisting through the well-balanced, dry aftertaste. It expresses itself particularly well with food; pour alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Château Moulin de Canhaut 2006
AOC Médoc $17.95 (190983) 13.0% alcohol
An award-winning blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon this dry medium-full bodied Bordeaux has an intriguing nose offering a whiff of old-fashioned rose, smoke, spice, cassis and field berries. Rich, smooth and flavourful, it’s remarkably fruity, though well balanced with fine acidity and well-integrated tannins. Layered notes of spice, pepper and underbrush add complexity, a trace of roasted coffee beans lingering on the finish. A very good value, this wine is well matched with hearty meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink now
Couly-Dutheil ‘Domaine René Couly’ Chinon 2009
AOC Chinon $17.95 (007286) 13.0% alcohol
Cabernet Franc lovers, take note of this award-winning wine. Dense and dark, structured to entice with elusive notes of roasted peppers, dried herbs, black pepper and black berry fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, that black pepper comes to the fore, the black berry fruit riding a stream of vibrant acidity and a backbone of somewhat grippy tannins. A cool weather wine, to be matched with robust stews. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Beaucastel ‘Coudoulet de Beaucastel’ 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône $29.95 (048884) 14.0% alcohol
A blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault from a producer proud of its natural winemaking strategy—no chemicals, pesticides or herbicides are used, and the wine is unfiltered—this wine is reliably good year after year. Attractive red berry fruit, spice, autumnal notes and a hint of leather drift from the glass. Dry, full bodied, rich with ripe black fruit, spice and herbs, the wine is round and balanced, firm, well-integrated tannins and fresh acidity providing just the right counterpoint to the well-ripened fruit. A savoury spicy wine that keeps you coming back for just another sip. You’ll want to enjoy it now, but a couple of bottles will cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $44.95 (041954) 15.5% alcohol
Ruby with violet notes the aromas of rich ripe dark fruit and sweet spices spill from the glass of this dry, full-bodied incredibly smooth blend of Grenache, Sryah and Mourvèdre. Fresh acidity and beautifully integrated tannins balance the swell of rich fruit, hints of cedar and cocoa that coat the palate and leave a warm tangy slightly peppery and fruit-filled aftertaste that goes on and on. Ah, wonderful to savour now or cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)

Germany: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Loosen Bros. ‘Dr. L’ Riesling 2010
Qualitätswein Mosel $14.95 (599274) 8.5% alcohol
Here’s an appealing easy-drinking just off-dry wine that draws you to the glass with subtle aromas—floral, white peach and citrus. Fresh, fruity and floral on the palate, underlaid with fresh acidity and a mineral quality, it leaves a touch of sweet fruit on the finish. A charming sipper, or a match for lightly spiced dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Lingenfelder ‘Bird Label’ Riesling 2009 

QbA Germany $13.95 (568634) 10.0% alcohol 

From a consistent producer with reliably delicious wines, this Riesling is just off-dry and fragrant with floral, ripe tree fruit and lemon/lime aromas. Fresh and bright with mineral undertones, it has the juicy flavours of a bowl of sliced stone fruit under a splash of citrus. Nicely balanced, appealingly fruity and gulp-able, it’s a great pour on its own or paired with lightly spiced dishes. It earns its final half star on value. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: White Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Inama Vin Soave Classico 2009
DOCG Soave Classico $17.95 (949768) 12.0% alcohol
This is medium-bodied with gorgeous mouth feel dishing up a crisp, refreshing mouthful of zippy flavour needing a partner; try mussels steamed in this wine. Mineral, citrus and green apple on the nose, it delivers a focused stream of white grapefruit and lemon tang riding a river of bracing, lip-smacking acidity. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Zenato ‘Sergio Zenato Riserva’ Lugana 2008
DOC Lugana $26.95 (928218) 13.5% alcohol
Full of flavour and charm, this is balanced, has structure and is terrific value. Expansive aromas of floral, mineral notes, nutty nuances and yellow peach provide segue to layered, palate-coating flavours of ripe apple, pear and nectarine mingling with lemon sherbet. The lingering, elegant finish layers on nuances of apple torte and lemon-zest cheesecake. It’s mid-full weight with a creamy texture. Serve as a welcoming wine. It’s also poured perfectly alongside veal medallions or Sunday roast-chicken dinner. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Lento Lamezia ‘Riserva’ 2006
DOC Lamezia $19.95 (972208) 13.5% alcohol
For something a little different, try this southern Italian blend of Magliocco, Greco Nero and Nerello. Intriguing on the nose, there’s spice, cedar, smoke, red fruits and a whiff of vanilla. Dry, silky and medium-bodied, it’s well balanced, displaying some maturity in the flavours of subtly spiced cherries and berries, herbs and toast. Quite subtle and refined, it’s long and fresh through the finish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Barone Ricasoli ‘Rocca Guicciarda’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico Riserva $24.95 (943613) 13.5% alcohol
This is impressive; it’s full of racy flavour, has balance and offers very good value. A piquant nose of exotic incense, cedar and red cherry intro this mid weight, nicely textured red. Racy flavours of cranberry and sour cherry provide a tangy, refreshing wave over the palate and dry, mouth-watering finish. There’s a perceptible underpinning of tannin; you might aerate/decant for a couple of hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $21.95 (680496) 13.0% alcohol
Savour classic aromas of berries, earth, sweet spice and mocha on the nose of this dry, medium-bodied wine. Well balanced, the nicely integrated tannins and fine acidity provide a framework for lovely spice-infused red fruit and subtle hints of earth and herbs. The lengthy finish is dry and fresh, suggesting a good match to a hearty meat dish with carrot and parsnip gratinée. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Ornellaia ‘le Volte’ 2009
IGT Toscana $29.95 (964221) 13.5% alcohol
Dry, medium-full bodied and remarkably approachable, this blend of Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvingon offers clean aromas of ripe berry fruit, exotic spice and an elusive floral or herbal note. Mature red fruit and sweet spice replay on the palate, supported by firm savoury tannins and fresh acidity. The mid-length finish is garnished with notes of spice and pepper. Enjoy it now with robust meat dishes, or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Salcheto Rosso di Montepulciano 2008
DOC Rosso di Montepulciano $17.95 (165357) 13.5% alcohol
Ruby-hued and fruity, this unoaked wine offers up lovely floral notes, red fruits and a hint of spice. Dry, smooth, fresh, it delivers bright focused red berries on a stream of lively acidity. Mid-weight with a juicy, mouthwateringly tasty finish, it will pair with tomato-based dishes or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Pasqua Amarone Della Valpolicella 2007
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $36.95 (247890) 15.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour, it’s balanced with good structure and brimming with rich, luscious flavour—pick up a few. It’s not DOCG only because that designation came into effect 2008. Fig, raisin and toasty notes on the nose, the palate’s awash with bramble berry pie, black currant and juicy, black cherry. Drinking well now, it’s mid weight and well balanced with a long delectable aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2007
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $49.95 (356220) 15.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of roasted herbs, fennel and mocha mingle with cedar providing segue to beautifully sculpted flavours of red berry fruit, red cherry and cassis. This is more elegant than powerful with good balance between the tangy acidty, ripe fruit and dusting of perceptible, but acceptable, tannin. Poured perfectly with Stilton or other blue-veined cheese, spice or Christmas cake or bittersweet chocolate desserts. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Quinta Do Vale Meão ‘Meandro’ 2008
DOC Douro $23.95 (244731) 14.0% alcohol
This is seriously good wine—vinified mostly from premium, foot-trodden Port grapes, it opens with aromas of mixed spice, herbs, charred toast and earthy notes. Racy sour cherry and pomegranate flavours glide on a spine of good acidity along with sweet, ripe strawberry. It’s medium-full bodied with excellent structure and depth, silky texture and a long, dry, mouth-watering finish that adds nuances of mocha and earthiness. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Quinto Do Valdoeiro ‘Reserva’ 2005
DOC Bairrada $19.95 (688770) 12.5% alcohol
Medium bodied, with good mouth feel and deft balance, this lower-alcohol beauty is good value. Dark berry fruit, incense and black currant jam aromas introduce a wash of tangy, juicy red fruit—cherry and racy currant mingling with plummy tones. It finishes lengthy with espresso roast and dark chocolate adorning the fruit flavours. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Casa Castillo Monastrell 2009
DO Jumilla $13.95 (165621) 14.0% alcohol
This offers tremendous value—it’s a, Why didn’t I buy more? kind of wine. Spice, underbrush and roasted herbs on the nose, palate-coating flavours of ripe, dark berry fruit interweave with racy red cherry and spice-infused black plum. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with good concentration, depth and balance. Paired perfectly with roast of beef, grilled red meats or hearty stews and casseroles. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Bodegas J.C. Conde ‘el Arte de Vivir’ 2009
DOC Ribera del Duero $15.95 (137679) 14.0% alcohol
Wearing a robe of deep purple, this fruit forward, dry medium-bodied wine delivers a stream of sweetly spiced dark fruit aromas and flavours. Concentrated fruit is deftly balanced with fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins. There’s good length on the dry yet fruity finish. It gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Miguel Torres ‘Mas Borràs’ Pinot Noir 2008
DO Penedès $29.95 (673483) 14.0% alcohol
Gamy, mineral and leather aromas presage a delicious river of black currant, kirsch liqueur and racy cranberry. Medium-full bodied with a silky smooth mouth feel, this oozes charm and personality along with persistence of flavour and excellent balance. The dry, lingering aftertaste broadens out to include adornments of spice and savoury herbs. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Rioja Bordón ‘Gran Reserva’ 2001
DOCa Rioja $23.95 (114454) 13.5% alcohol
A great opportunity to taste a ten-year-old red at a fairly good price, especially if starting a cellar—you really need to taste older wines to judge if you enjoy the style. Earthy, leather and cooked meat aromas dominate the heavily perfumed nose. Red cherry, blueberry and spiced black plum intermingle with hints of floral notes and slate. There’s good fruit and balance throughout with the mid-length, drying finish layering on cedar and toasty notes. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sabor Real Tempranillo ‘Viñas Centenarias’ 2007
DO Toro $15.00 (244772) 14.5% alcohol
Produced from ancient, century-old vines, this Tempranillo shows a hint of mahogany and enticing aromas of licorice, cigar box, spice and raspberry/blueberry pie. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s deftly structured and balanced, offering ripe fruit on the palate embellished with subtle earthy notes, herbs and spice that follow through on the extended finish. Pick up a few bottles of this exceptional value, it will cellar a further 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

**** drink now
Partager ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
IGP Pays d’Oc, France $9.95 (251074) 13.0% alcohol
This showcases a new benchmark for the sunny south of France—wines with character, structure and charm, fruit-forward delicious and food friendly. Mocha, smoke and dark berry fruit on the nose, it coats the palate with a nicely textured wash of lip-smacking red fruit—currant and cherry—interlaced with spice, moderating acidity and a supple tannin structure. It earned its final half star on value—not many good Cabs at this price. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Partager ‘Reserve’ Merlot 2010
IGP Pays d’Oc, France $9.95 (251082) 13.5% alcohol
Sporting a spanking new label, it brims with ripe, fruit flavour and good carpentry. Punching well above the price, it’s not to be missed. Savoury spice, dark fruit and wisps of smoke on the nose, it washes over the palate in waves with dark plum and blackberry persisting through the long finish. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely balanced with an über-creamy mouth feel. Perfect on its own, it also pours well with most meat dishes and stews. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Pierre Sparr ‘Extrem’ Riesling 2008
AOC Alsace, France $12.95 (618546) 12.0% alcohol
Piquant spice, mineral and floral notes provide segue for a racy tangy rush of crisp, refreshing flavour—lemon zest and key lime pie interlaced with crisp green apple. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy, mouth-watering, refreshing aftertaste. Medium bodied, nicely textured and well priced, it sets up well with lighter-styled appetizers or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

Is it legal for an Ontario resident to bring home wine from another province? Can you legally have a case of wine shipped to you from a winery in another province? You might be surprised at the answers… Read More

New in Ontario Wineries

*** drink now
Strewn Gewürztraminer 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.15 12.7% alcohol
Exotic spice with nuances of floral notes and rose petals dominate the delicate nose while spice-infused yellow plum and peach flavours wash over the plate persisting through the mid-length finish. It’s light-on-its-feet with good texture and the tell-tale Gewürzt bite on the aftertaste. This really struts its stuff with steamed mussels or grilled prawns. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Strewn. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Strewn Pinot Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.95 12.0% alcohol
Perfumed aromas abound with honeyed pear, yellow plum and floral notes galore. Racy and tangy on the palate, look for a riveting flow of lemon zest and white grapefruit broadening out with crisp apple and yellow plum on the refreshing finish. It’s light bodied with good texture matching up well with skillet-seared white fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Strewn. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Strewn Riesling - Gewürztraminer 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.15 12.7% alcohol
Rosewater, red licorice and floral aromas presage an ever-so-slightly off-dry, generously textured blend. Flavours of spiced yellow peach, ripe apple and racy lemon citrus dominate the palate and mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s good value and you can serve as an aperitif or with food—pour with mussels steamed in white wine. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Strewn. (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment Wines

****1/2 drink now
Julian Reynolds ‘Art and Tradition’ 2006 

Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal $19.45 13.5% alcohol 

Perfumed aromas of exotic spice, dark berry fruit and cedar abound. Ripe red and dark berry fruit, blueberry and black currant jam wash in waves persisting through the lengthy, deftly balanced finish. It’s mid weight and fully textured with well-integrated oak, good depth and concentration offering excellent value. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Viñedos Marchigue ‘Tricyclo’ Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Cabernet Franc 2009
DO Colchagua Valley, Chile $18.85 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of cherry, cedar and earthiness spill from this tangy, racy red blend. Flavours of red cherry, pomegranate and roasted herbs are carried along on a spine of acidity that broadens out on the aftertaste with adornments of oak and dark berry fruit. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel. Pair with penne pasta in a vegetarian tomato, basil cream sauce. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Viñedos Marchigue ‘Tricyclo’ Malbec 2009
DO Colchagua Valley, Chile $18.85 13.5% alcohol
Bright ruby-purple in the glass, the perfumed aromas spill easily—earthy, spice box and red cherry. This is tangy and juicy with great balance and flavour—red currant, sour cherry and ripr dark berry fruit mingle with dark bittersweet chocolate. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Kettle Valley Winery Chardonnay 2009
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $30.25 13.5% alcohol
This is a gorgeous barrel-fermented Chardonnay showcasing delicate aromas of tropical fruit and spice on the quiet nose. A nicely balanced, crisp, refreshing wash of flavour makes it way across the palate with sweet vanilla, ripe pit fruit and spicy notes to the fore. It’s quite mellow with good depth, a silky smooth texture and a perfectly balanced aftertaste—crisp green apple and racy citrus notes interlaced with luscious white peach. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Kettle Valley Winery Pinot Noir 2008
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $31.70 14.1% alcohol
Involved aromas of underbrush, minerality and rich, dark fruit provide segue for a focused wash of palate-pleasing red currant and cranberry augmented by sweet, ripe mulberry and wisps of savoury herbs. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a nicely defined aftertaste replaying off the palate. Tasting more new world than old, it’s certain to be a crowd-pleaser sipped on its own or alongside roast fowl. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Kettle Valley Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $30.25 13.5% alcohol
Delicate aromas of citrus, beeswax and hints of gooseberry provide segue to a mélange of flavours. There are ripe pear and sweet yellow plum flavours washing over the palate on entry and crisp, refreshing citrus and nuances of passion fruit on the dry, balanced aftertaste. This is medium-bodied with excellent mouth feel and incredibly food-friendly; pour alongside grilled/poached/steamed fish and shellfish, or veal, chicken or pork. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan