Winecurrent

October 15, 2011 Vintages Release

Tim Hanni, Master of Wine, Chef and Certified Wine Educator, appears in Ottawa.

He’ll deliver an entertaining, educational, rule-bending ‘Why You Like What You Like’ seminar on how YOUR ‘Taste Sensitivity Quotient’ affects YOUR personal wine style choices. You’ll also experience interactions between wine and food and learn flavour balancing techniques that will ensure the wine YOU love tastes great with the food YOU choose.

If you’re in the area the evening of Tuesday, November 15, 2011, you’ll want to register now. Admission includes a seminar with Tim Hanni, an opportunity to sample Lifford Wine Agency wines, hors d'oeuvres by Algonquin’s Restaurant International and, as a winecurrent subscriber, a 10% discount on the admission price. Click here for full details, to receive your discount and to register. There are a limited number of seats.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • Best Buys under $15 – Vineau Corvina IGT Veronese 4 stars @ $12.95 found under Italy: Red Wine and Montes ‘Limited Selection’ 2010 Colchagua Valley 4 stars @ $14.95 found under Chile: Red Wine
  • Best Buys under $20 – Domaine Grand Veneur ‘Les Champauvins’ 2009 AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages 4½ stars @ $18.95 under France: Red Wine and Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi ‘Terre More Dell’ Ammiraglia 2009 IGT Maremma 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Italy Feature: Tuscany
  • Susan Selects – Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Lake County 4½ stars @ $17.95 found under Califronia: Red Wine
  • Vic’s Pick – Lailey Vineyard Riesling 2010 4½ stars @ $17.95 under Ontario: White Wine
  • Finding Waldo – It’s a balanced and beautiful Grand Cru, off-dry, Pinot Gris —4½ stars @ $23.95
This winecurrent newsletter reviews +80 wines and begins with features from the Vintages Release catalogue on Italy and Argentina followed by wines reviewed in order of the Main Release and wines available in the LCBO Portfolio section of stores. By clicking on the LCBO number (in brackets) in each review, you can search store inventories to find the store nearest you with stock. Stores usually have stock posted on the Friday before the release date and many stock shelves late on that Friday. There’s also wine reviewed under Upstream in Winecurrent, New in Vintages and New in Ontario Wineries.

It concludes with Consignment Wine and Private Order Wine—wines available to order by the case from agents that will deliver to your home or office. These wines are purchased by restaurants and ‘in the know’ wine lovers. Read this… and you’ll be a wine lover who’s in the know.

Italy Feature: Piedmont

**** drink now
La Querciola ‘Chicchivello’ Langhe Rosso 2008
DOC Langhe $13.95 (225227) 14.0% alcohol
Meriting an extra half star for value, this attractive, approachable blend of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo offers interesting aromas—cherry, berry, spicy floral notes and a hint of leather—and delicious fresh, spice-infused red-fruit flavours. Dry, medium bodied and warm, it’s well structured, supple and harmonious through the finish. Pick up a few bottles for casual get-togethers. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Poderi Dogliani di Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani 2009
DOC Dolcetto di Dogliani $18.95 (232454) 13.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of ripe dark berry fruit, sweet spice and cedar stream from the glass. Dry, medium bodied, round and velvety, berry fruit bathes the palate while the tang of pepper and hint of grilled almonds garnish the long supple finish. This is a delightful taste experience at a good price. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Guasti Clemente & Figli ‘Fonda S. Nocolao’ Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2005
DOC Barbera d’Asti $21.95 (233890) 13.5% alcohol
Quiet aromas of lilac, spice and mocha segue a light-medium-bodied wash of red currant and cranberry mingling with roasted herbs and racy acidity. It’s nicely textured delivering a crisp dry finish with wisps of fine-grained tannin and hints of herbaceous notes. Best with food, give it a go with spaghetti and meatballs in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Guasti Clement & Figli ‘Riserva’ Barbaresco 2005
DOCG Barbaresco $35.95 (233908) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of leather, earth and spice roll off this smooth, mellow, light-medium-weight Nebbiolo. Flavours of pomegranate, strawberry and spice-laden black plum abound. It’s nicely textured with a long drying finish infused with tangy red berry fruit and sour cherry. Versatile at the table, try Swiss steak, lasagna or grilled T-bone. (Vic Harradine)

Italy Feature: Tuscany

**** drink now
Cordella Rosso di Montalcino 2009
DOC Rosso di Montalcino $19.95 (251462) 14.0% alcohol
Well crafted and nicely balanced, this young wine offers clean aromas of red fruit and licorice, earthy, herbal notes and an elusive whiff of iron. Dry, medium bodied, the fresh texture and soft tannin frame lovely red fruit interleaved with autumnal and herbal notes. Very approachable, it offers a dry fruity finish. Enjoy it now with grilled red meats or cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Scopetani Chianti ‘Riserva’ 2007
DOCG Chianti $14.95 (164814) 12.5% alcohol
Ruby hued, this dry, medium-bodied red offers an attractive aroma profile of earth, black olives, cherry and red berry. Framed by perceptible tannin and lively acidity, the flavours are fresh-picked raspberry and pie cherry, the earthy note replaying and carrying through the finish. Cellar mid-term or serve now with aged hard cheese or robust meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Volpaia Chianti Classico 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $21.95 (953828) 13.5% alcohol
Everything about this wine is subtle, almost delicate, from the aromas—floral, dried herbs and sweet red fruit—through the gently spiced red berry flavours garnished with fine notes of white pepper unfolding on the palate. Fruit, tannin and fine acidity are harmoniously integrated, delivering a lasting graceful finish. Enjoy now or cellar a bottle or two to savour in a year or two. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Tenuta di Nozzole ‘La Forra’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 (177279) 14.5% alcohol
Aged in French oak and unfiltered, this deep ruby Sangiovese offers an array of beguiling aromas—licorice, cedar, smoke, red and black berries and a subtle earthy quality. Perceptible tannin and lively acidity frame fresh red fruit livened with notes of spice and white pepper with that earthy quality hovering in the background. Dry, medium bodied and appealing, the wine delivers a lasting, dry, fruity aftertaste. Enjoy now with veal chops and sautéed mushrooms, or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Poliziano Vino Nobile de Montepulciano 2007
DOCG Montepulciano $25.95 (988055) 14.5% alcohol
This is a luscious red wine from a stellar vintage with the price-quality balance tipping well in your favour—it’s worth more than a casual look. Lilac, spice and mixed berry fruit wafts from the quiet nose heralding a rich river of palate-bathing flavour—dark berry fruit, juicy black cherry and spiced black currant. It’s balanced with good definition, a touch of class and loads of charm. Medium-full bodied and nicely textured, it finishes dry and lip-smacking good. Drink now to 2015. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Casa di Terra ‘Moreccio’ Bolgheri 2009
DOC Bolgheri $19.95 (232405) 13.5% alcohol
Extracted and intense, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot beckons with aromas of spice, vanilla and concentrated dark fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, it offers flavours of earth, herbs and field berries, fresh texture and firm structure. There’s great impact and length on the finish. Enjoy it now with meat-based pasta or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi ‘Terre More Dell’Ammiraglia’ 2009
IGT Maremma Toscana $19.95 (239889) 13.5% alcohol
An international red blend—Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc and Syrah—the lifted nose proffers up dark berry fruit, wood smoke and sweet herb aromas followed by a rich, balanced river of chocolate-covered cherry and spice-laden black currant. It’s well balanced, medium-full weight with a smooth-as-silk texture. It finishes lengthy, fruit forward and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Luce Della Vite ‘Luce’ 2008
IGT Toscana $99.95 (685263) 14.5% alcohol
Sandalwood, herbs and espresso roast aromas on the nose, this delivers a persistent sexy stream of chocolate-covered maraschino cherries, black plum compote with nuances of exotic spice and black licorice. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and an expressive lengthy finish underpinned by supple, still-evolving tannin. Pours well with osso bucco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina Premium Wine Feature

****1/2 drink or cellar
Durigutti ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2006
Mendoza $26.95 (246082) 14.5% alcohol
Charred toast and spice aromas meld with rich berry fruit on the lifted nose of this focused, balanced beauty. Palate-coating flavours of black currant, kirsch liqueur and spice-infused red berry fruit wash in waves. It’s medium weight with generous texture showcasing a lengthy aftertaste of fruit, oak and perceptible evolving tannin. Aerate/decant for three hours serving with grilled red meat you pull off your Weber. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Familia Marguery Malbec 2005
Mendoza $25.95 (167247) 15.0% alcohol
Exotic spice, dark fruit and charred toast aromas peel from the nose of this medium-full-bodied, smoothly textured rock-solid red. It’s richly concentrated and brimming with flavour—sweet ripe mulberry and black juicy cherry folding in bittersweet chocolate and a dusting of tannin on the nicely balanced finish. Good sipping on its own, it fronts up well to grilled lamb or beef strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Viniterra ‘Select’ Malbec 2005
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $21.95 (177964) 14.8% alcohol
Subdued aromas of red cherry/berry, spiced black plum and sandalwood make their way to the palate along with a rich wash of spice-infused black cherry, boysenberry and mixed spice box mingling with hints of mocha. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with an involved aftertaste of dark juicy fruit framed by toasty oak underpinned by supple tannin. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours and pour alongside tofu veggie burgers adorned by grilled portobellos. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Riglos ‘Gran Corte’ 2007
Mendoza $37.95 (243501) 15.2% alcohol
Inky purple and opaque, this blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon includes a dash of Cabernet Franc, all aged 22 months in French oak. The rich ripe stream of dark fruit layers on notes of vanilla and cocoa on the nose. Dry and full bodied, it delivers an opulent, round, taste experience characterized by concentrated dark plummy fruit, toasty oak, vanilla, pepper, and a subtle earthy note; this is robust, powerful wine. The firm structure and fine acidity balance the deep fruit core, the finish offers lengthy, warmth and lingering notes of black pepper and toast. It’s ready to go now. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Navarro Coreas ‘Structura Ultra’ 2006
IP Mendoza $34.95 (064501) 14.9% alcohol
A lifted nose of aromatic bitters, exotic spice and lovely floral notes rip from the glass of this medium-weight—unlike the weight of the bottle, an eco-unfriendly heavyweight—nicely textured red blend. There’s a river of tangy, racy red currant and blackberry fruit interwoven with toasty oak and a tannin underpinning while the finish lingers. Stick in the cellar for a couple of years then pour with a thick juicy steak. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Catena ‘Alta’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $49.95 (982355) 13.5% alcohol
Produced from grapes specially selected from 4 family vineyards, the vibrant aromas of this dense, inky red stream from the glass—dark berries, dried herbs, mint, vanilla, spice, incense and a whiff of cocoa, all intermingling to create the fabulous complex bouquet. Full, fruity, black berry flavours and a rich velvety texture coat the palate. It’s finely balanced acidity and well-integrated tannin kick in to assure freshness. The finish is extended, notes of herbs and cocoa persisting. Bring on the prime rib or cellar 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)

Main Release

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Brut

New Zealand $21.95 (163634) 12.0% alcohol

Aromas of baking brioche and alluring floral notes open this zippy refreshing gem. The energetic mousse supports flavours of green apple, ripe white peach and slate. It’s nicely textured and finishes lengthy with ripe citrus, sweet notes of ripe pineapple and tree fruit. The sweet and tang on the lip-smacking finish offers the opportunity to pair with spicy appetizers or to sip on its own, either is equally delightful. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Allimant-Laugner ‘Brut’ Crémant d’Alsace
AOC Alsace $17.95 (30593) 12.5% alcohol
A pretty straw hue, this lively engaging blend of Auxerrois and Riesling offers a trace of yeast and fresh fruity aromas of pear and citrus. The mousse is fine and refreshing, the fruit replaying on the palate and extending through a clean tangy finish. This is a great aperitif wine. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now
Fielding Estate Winery ‘Estate Bottled’ Pinot Gris 2010

VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (251108)12.0% alcohol

Citrus, spice and savory herbs dominate the aromas while the palate’s treated to a racy rush of white grapefruit, crisp green apple and spiced yellow plum carried on a spine of tangy acidity. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a crisp refreshing finish replaying hints of spice with undertones of apple and pear. A great patio sipper and even better with food—steamed mussels, grilled garlic prawns or pasta in creamy white sauce with clams. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Lailey Vineyard Riesling 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (072736) 11.5% alcohol 

This is pure, focused and fruit forward with a creamy silky-smooth texture. Riesling expresses terroir and wine maker Derek Barnett wisely allowed this wine to do all the talking. Focused aromas and ripe flavours persist on the palate and lip-smacking aftertaste—white flowers, lemon-lime sherbet with high notes of honeyed tropical fruit. Perfect to sip, it has the balance and slightly off-dry character to marry well with a variety of dishes, especially spicy Asian. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink now
Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series Three Vineyards’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 (175174) 12.5% alcohol
The three component wines of this blend were aged separately in French oak, then blended to deliver a ruby gem displaying intriguing aromas of earth, cherry, sweet spice, notions of vanilla and smoky toast. Dry, medium bodied and displaying an earthy mineral character, flavours of raspberry and spiced pie cherry are framed by fresh acidity and fine tannin, assuring a lovely balance and extended finish showcasing fresh red fruit. Enjoy now with herbed pork roast or cellar 2-3 years. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Jackson Triggs ‘Niagara Estate Silver Series’ Shiraz 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (89359) 13.0% alcohol
Semi-opaque, ruby-toned and aged 16 months in barrel, this lovely Shiraz evokes vanilla, red and black berry, cracked pepper and a hint of smoke. Dry, medium-full bodied and deftly balanced, there’s clear harmony of well-integrated tannin, fine acidity and tasty flavours of berry fruit, tangy pepper and minerality. Elusive notes of char persist on the finish. Enjoy this fine value with full-flavoured meat dishes or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Twenty Mile Bench $45.00 (33902) 13.0% alcohol
A deep rose hue, it’s enticing with aromas of underbrush, campfire, mineral and red fruit. This dry, medium-bodied Pinot is fresh and lively. Silky in texture, it proffers red fruit and mineral notes across the palate, finishing with subtlety and elegance, emphasizing earthiness and the bright red fruit. Enjoy it with chicken with fragrant mushrooms or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Southbrook ‘Whimsy!’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $33.95 (260281) 12.0% alcohol
Rich mocha, dark toast and black currant preserve on the nose, this has structure, balance and more than its share of charm. The palate’s washed in waves with racy red currant, black Bing cherry and tangy dark briary berry. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a dry, lip-smacking, tangy finish. One of Niagara’s top-tier winemakers and a great red-wine vintage coalesce in this well-paced Cab. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
The Foreign Affair ‘The Conspiracy’ 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (149237) 12.8% alcohol
This Ripasso-styled red blend of Cab Sauv was repassed over Cab Franc skins for a 2nd fermentation. Dried currant, tobacco and mocha aromas provide segue for lively river of flavour with sweet mulberry interlaced with green olive and herbaceous notes—a unique combination, and it works. It’s medium bodied with a lengthy dry aftertaste. Give it a pour with meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Napa Chardonnay 2008
Napa Valley $23.95 (244483) 14.2% alcohol
A deeper yellow than most, this rips from the glass with expressive aromas of sweet vanilla, spice, orchard fruit and nutty nuances. There’s great definition on the palate with crisp Granny Smith apple, ripe pear and lemony citrus flavours persisting through the lengthy, mouth-watering finish. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and delivers good value for your dollar. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Pahlmeyer Chardonnay 2009
Napa Valley $79.95 (147454) 14.9% alcohol
This stunning expression of Chardonnay showcases a complex flavour profile, good structure, deft oak integration and balance. Grapes were hand harvested over 30 days, hand sorted, whole-cluster pressed, wild-yeast barrel-fermented, eleven-months in French oak, full malo and weekly lees stirring, bottled without fining or sterile filtration. Sweet vanilla, tropical fruit and pit fruit aromas presage a gorgeously balanced, palate-bathing wash of flavour with honeyed pear, citrus, peach and spice-infused ripe melon. It’s full bodied, with generous mouth feel and a crisp, lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Santa Barbara Wine Company Chardonnay 2009
Santa Barbara County $19.95 (235937) 13.9% alcohol
Well balanced, crisp and refreshing, this delivers a cool-climate-inclined Chardonnay with structure, balance and a value-packed price. Fresh and zippy aromas of citrus, apple and pear abound. White peach, ripe pear and tangy lemon mingle with wisps of toast and peel marmalade on the palate. It’s mid weight, with good texture and a balanced mouth-watering finish. Pour with turkey leftovers or vegetarian zucchini and feta cheese fritters. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Lake County $17.95 (104240) 14.5% alcohol
From an estate established in 1888 by famous British actress, Lily Langtree, comes a big powerful value-laden wine that captivates with intense aromas of ripe dark fruit, cocoa, spice and dark toast. Showcasing a boatload of intense dark fruit, spice box and toast, this medium-full bodied Cab achieves balance with fine acidity and a firm tannic structure. The finish is long and dry, crying out for a robust stew. A candidate for mid-term cellaring, the wine gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Peju Merlot 2006
Napa Valley $44.95 (147322) 14.1% alcohol
Asian spice and dark plum aromas on the nose provide segue for a smooth and mellow mouthful of luscious flavour with briary berry, black plum compote and dark coffee washing over the palate in endless waves. It’s mid weight with a luxurious finish that melds ripe dark fruit with just the right amount of moderating acidity and enough tannin for good structure. This is a rock-solid, four-star Merlot at a fair price. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ridge ‘Geyserville’ 2009
Sonoma County $42.95 (723072) 14.3% alcohol
Ridge’s Geyserville is an iconic red blend—primarily Zinfandel—over-delivering on the price-quality scale, vintage after vintage. Sharp aromas of red cherry and spice introduce a well-balanced nicely structured, complex wash of tangy, juicy sour cherry juxtaposed with sweet, ripe mulberry mingling with wisps of dried, roasted herbs and sweet oak. It showcases a smooth-as-silk mouth feel and a lengthy finish. Pour now until 2016 with beef tenderloin grilled rare on your Big Green Egg.

**** drink now
Seghesio ‘Sonoma’ Zinfandel 2009
Sonoma County $29.95 (942151) 15.0% alcohol
Seghesio is a premium, trusted, Sonoma County producer of quality Zin. A lifted nose of cherry cordial, spice and herbs captures your attention introducing a balanced mouthful of flavour with good definition and structure—bramble berry pie and black currant with excellent moderating acidity. This is mid weight with good texture and a fruit-forward finish that’s mouth-watering delicious. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink now
Doña Paula ‘Estate’ Malbec 2009
Mendoza $17.95 (661819) 14.0%alcohol
Notes of vanilla and herbs waft from the glass of this appetizing fruity, delightfully spiced Malbec. Dry and velvety, soft tannins and acidity provide adequate balance to the concentrated dark spiced fruit. An easy-drinking enjoyable wine that gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

***** drink or cellar
Luigi Bosca ‘Finca Los Nobles’ Cabernet - Bouchet 2005 

Argentina $63.95 (175547) 15.1% alcohol 

This red blend—primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with 12% Cabernet Franc a.k.a. Bouchet—is heady and highly perfumed with a beckoning bouquet of red licorice, graphite, cherry/berry fruit and exotic spices and herbs. Rich, complex and concentrated flavours explode on the palate with black currant, cassis and dark chocolate prominent. It’s full bodied, generously textured sporting a bold and monumentally lengthy, fruity finish. It’s good to go now paired with weighty cuisine; try with osso bucco or cassoulet. There’s also plenty of life left in this six-year-old gem. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Korta ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Lontué Valley, Curicó $13.95 (236034) 14.5% alcohol
Dusty oak, kitchen spice, underbrush and nuances of red and dark berry fruit aromas build in the glass. On the palate there’s a sleek, steady stream of flavours with spice-laden black plum interwoven with herbaceous notes and a solid underpinning of perceptible tannin. The chewy aftertaste offers up red berry fruit and a generous ladle of mouth-watering acidity complemented by juicy dark fruit. Open 2013 or aerate/decant three hours and pour with lasagna or pasta in rich, tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink now
Montes ‘Limited Selection’ Cabernet Sauvginon/Carmenère 2010
Colchagua Valley $14.95 (16071) 14.5% alcohol
This is a great value red blend. Intense, complex aromas of cedar, vanilla, toast, chocolate and black fruit abound. Full bodied, round and rich, perceptible tannin and fine acidity frame concentrated berry fruit, sweet spice and tangy notes of char. There’s good balance through the long dry finish with lingering, ripe fruit flavours. Robust meat dishes are in order. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: White Wine

**** drink now
Penfolds ‘Thomas Hyland’ Riesling 2008
South Australia $19.95 (146746) 12.0% alcohol
This is a lovely Riesling, offering an intriguing nose infused with orchard fruit, lime and a hint of petrol. Fruity, medium bodied, crisp and flavourful, it sports a bit of spritz while lime and pear dominate on the palate and the bright, refreshing finish. Sip and enjoy. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
d’Arenberg ‘The Galvo Garage’ 2007
McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills, South Australia $29.95 (907584) 15.0% alcohol
Chester Osborne, winemaker extraordinaire, uses a Bordeaux blend of grapes fashioning this rock-solid, four-star gem. It opens with exotic spice, aromatic bitters and charred toast mingling with dark berry fruit. The well-defined flavours persist on the palate and through the juicy lip-smacking finish—red cherry, cranberry sauce and nuances of mocha. This is mid weight with a supple tannin structure. Good to go now, either sipped on its own or paired with roast leg of lamb with root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Elderton ‘Ode to Lorraine’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (976423) 14.5% alcohol
Rich and luscious with touches of elegance, this is complex and layered with balance and charm—it was tough to spit. Perfumed aromas of ripe berry fruit, peppery notes and charred toast mingle with spice and black plum compote. Succulent ripe mulberry, black currant and cassis coat the palate while the lengthy aftertaste’s adorned with tangy, juicy black cherry and firm tannin. There’s life left and the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. Don’t hesitate; pick up a few enjoying every two or three years until 2018 noting development. Decant three hours now, if impatient. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Henry’s Drive Shiraz 2007
Padthaway, South Australia $24.95 (243527) 15.0% alcohol
Straightforward and uncomplicated on the palate, this dishes up a nose of berry fruit, cherry, toasty oak and savoury aromas. Red cherry and black currant flavours wash over the palate interwoven with good moderating acidity and grainy tannin. The aftertaste broadens out to include sweet ripe mulberry and nuances of fennel. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring alongside a slab of smoked grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Josef Chromy ‘Pepik’ Pinot Noir 2010
Tasmania $26.95 (162990) 13.0% alcohol
Smoke and sandalwood aromas provide intro to this tangy, juicy cool-climate Pinot. With a steady stream of cranberry, red currant and ruby red grapefruit acidity, this rides over the palate on a mid-weight bed with good mouth feel. It’s perfectly balanced and the oak’s well integrated, making for a classy offering at a favourable price-quality ratio. Good to go now and versatile with food—left over turkey, chicken or cedar-plank grilled salmon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Pirramimma Petit Verdot 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $26.95 (986752) 14.5% alcohol
Pirramimma is a premium producer planting the first Petit Verdot vineyard—now also the largest—in Australia. This jumps from the glass with rich and robust aromas of dark chocolate, fennel, toasty notes and black currant. It’s medium bodied and über smooth and mellow on the palate with supple, ripe tannin interwoven with red cherry, red and black currant and succulent ripe mulberry. The stunning finish is balanced and beautiful. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Tait ‘The Wild Ride’ Shiraz 2007
Southern Flinders, South Australia $19.95 (243584) 15.5% alcohol
More famous for their flagship ‘Ball Buster’ this also delivers a fine wine that’s layered and lovely on the nose with forest floor, mixed spice and roasted herbs along with mixed field berry. It strides over the palate with persistent flavours of boysenberry, kirsch liqueur and tangy red currant. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a balanced, lingering, juicy aftertaste. Pair with smoked and grilled pork loin accompanied by herb-sprinkled roast potatoes. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Two Hands ‘Brave Faces’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $33.95 (66035) 14.3% alcohol
Red cherry, underbrush and cedar on the nose, this delivers a huge mouthful of juicy, well-balanced flavour with each sip better than the last. It’s medium-full bodied with a silky-smooth mouth feel and flavour galore—black currant, ripe mulberry and spice-laden red cherry. The lengthy aftertaste is balanced and, in a word, yummy. Pair with grilled strip loin and portabella mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Two Hands ‘Sophie’s Garden’ Shiraz 2008
Padthaway, South Australia $46.00 (62380) 15.8% alcohol
A hedonistic treasure trove of sweet ripe fruit and moderating tang beckons. From the gorgeous nose of peppery plum, roasted herbs and red berry fruit to the racy balanced aftertaste of red cherry and currants, it’s delectable. It’s mid-full weight with generous texture and palate-coating wash of kirsch liqueur and blackberry preserve. Well-integrated oak, good structure and surprising balance—given the alcohol—coalesce to make this a lovely wine at a fair price. (Vic Harradine)

Austria: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Glatzer ‘Riedencuvée’ Zweigelt 2008
Carnuntum, Niederösterreich $15.95 (221051) 13.0% alcohol
As Grüner Veltliner gains mainstream traction as Austria’s great white hope, here’s one of their great red hopes, Zweigelt. The lifted nose offers smoke, tar and spice box followed by a lighter-styled wash of delicate flavours with racy red cherry and juicy black raspberry to the fore. The well-balanced, dry aftertaste layers on hints of underbrush interlaced with spice-laden plummy tones. Pour alongside medallions of veal with sautéed mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

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Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (686675) 13.5% alcohol
Straw with green notes, this is a reliably good Sauvignon Blanc with lovely pungent aromas that grab your attention—gooseberry, citrus, nettle and a hint of stone fruit. On the palate, the fresh texture is matched with flavours of tropical fruit, pink grapefruit and a hint of lemon rind. Thirst quenching and lively, the finish is pleasantly tart and tangy. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

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Boschendal ‘1685’ Shiraz 2009
WO Coastal Region $19.95 (96511) 14.0% alcohol
Aged 14 months in French oak, this inky purple wine is straightforward in its appeal. Rich, sweet, ripe, dark fruit and spice mingle with a faint floral note. Medium-full bodied, it’s dry, round, smooth and fruit-filled with attractive notes of spice and pepper lifting the generous finish. Try with grilled Italian sausage. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

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Pierre Sparr ‘Réserve’ Gewürztraminer 2009
AOC Alsace $17.95 (747600) 13.5% alcohol
A perennial, go-to, Alsatian Gewürzt for many, perfumed aromas abound with rosewater and exotic musky tones to the fore. It’s mid weight with very generous mouth feel and a persistent stream of off-dry sweet tropical fruit, ripe poached pear and spice. The ripe fruit’s offset by moderating acidity producing a sweet and tang aftertaste that pairs so well with spicy Asian dishes like lamb curry. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Vieil Armand Pinot Gris ‘Ollwiller’ 2007
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $23.95 (224279) 13.5% alcohol
Balanced and beautiful, this bathes the palate with a textbook rendition of quality, off-dry Alsatian Pinot Gris. It jumps from the glass with a mélange of perfumed aromas—rose petal, peach and honeyed pear. A consistent river of flavour bathes the palate infusing the lingering lip-smacking aftertaste—lemon chiffon pie, sweet tropical fruit and ripe juicy nectarine wreathed by good moderating acidity. There’s yellow plum and spice on the finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château Doisy ‘Daëne’ 2007
AOC Sauternes $32.00 375 mL (197899) 13.0% alcohol
Rich and alluring on the nose—exotic spice, tropical fruit and honeyed tones, it coats the palate with creamy-textured, palate-coating, delicious poached pear, peach cobbler and peel marmalade. It’s medium bodied replaying the flavours on the lengthy aftertaste. These tend to improve with age—ten plus years—and pair well with crème caramel, crème brulée or fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Guiraud 2007
AOC Sauternes $39.00 (098592) 13.5% alcohol
This is a gorgeous dessert wine offering character, balance and structure coupled with a good deal of charm. Apricot, mushroom and honeyed pit fruit aromas on the nose, there’s a gusher of delectable peach preserve, apricot jam and honeyed peach on the palate. It’s medium bodied and cleans up lip-smacking good on the finish with racy moderating acidity melding with sweet, ripe fruit. This is fine wine from an elite Sauternes producer. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Jean-Marc Brocard ‘Vau de Vay’ Chablis 1er Cru 2009
AOC Chablis 1er Cru s $29.95 (159012) 13.0% alcohol
Subtle and evocative, from organically grown grapes, this classic Chablis is dry, medium-full bodied and graced with aromas of citrus and mineral. Balanced and lively, the flavours include green apple, racy citrus with the underlying mineral notes. The mouth-watering finish offers a bracing twist of lemon zest. Serve with pan-fried fish or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

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Les Dabienières ‘Le’ Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2009
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine $13.95 (233528) 12.0% alcohol
Yeasty, mineral and citrus aromas dominate on the nose giving way to a mid-weight smooth-as-silk gem that’s brimming with value—pick up a few. Clean, crisp and refreshing throughout, the tangy citrus flavours are interwoven with green apple and peach on the palate replaying on the dry aftertaste. It’s the perfect partner with freshly shucked oysters or mussels steamed in white wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2  drink now
Domaine des Aspes Viognier 2009
Vin de Pays d’Oc $15.95 (712638) 13.5% alcohol
Interesting aromas of pit fruit, floral and musky aromas provide segue to this dry, light-medium-bodied Viognier. There’s good acidity on the palate delivered with citrus tang interlaced with pit fruit and hints of melon. Comes up a tad short on the finish, but all the components are there. Pour alongside skillet-seared fish or seafood under a squish of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Château Pipeau 2008
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $29.00 (138115) 13.0% alcohol
Exotic spice, stewed plum and camphor aromas dominate the nose in this fruity, well-balanced red. The palate’s treated to a medium-bodied nicely textured river of red and black berry fruit mingling with black licorice and earthy tones. The lengthy finish is laden with oak and underpinned by perceptible tannin—pour 2013 to 2018. If you’re impatient, aerate/decant three hours pairing with grilled strip loin or seasoned leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château Pontet-Canet 2007
AOC Pauillac $105.00 (100768) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a tannin-laced age-worthy cellar dweller in need of three years careful storage before popping the cork. Espresso roast and dark berry fruit on the nose, it delivers a well-constructed mouthful of cassis, red cherry and blueberry flavour. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a drying finish of sour cherry, spice and ripe mulberry firmly wrapped in still-evolving tannin. Be patient, it’ll drink and pour well with grilled rack of lamb by 2014. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Troplong Mondot 2007
AOC Saint-Émilion $115.00 (102723) 13.0% alcohol
Tarry, smoky, berry fruit and earthy aromas abound on the lifted nose of this drop-dead gorgeous blend. Black currant, cassis and kirsch liqueur interweave with spice and toasty notes on the palate and layered, lengthy aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied, nicely textured and brimming with fruit, moderating acidity and supple fine-grained tannin. A two-hour aeration/decant and rare, roast of beef provide an enjoyable dining experience. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
The Winemakers’ Collection ‘Cuvee No. 3’ 2007
Cuvee No. 3: Andrea Franchetti $37.00 (102301) 13.0% alcohol
Wood smoke, black currant and fennel aromas on the nose, it delivers sour cherry and racy cranberry riding a laser-like spine of acidity on the palate. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a tannin-laced aftertaste sporting wisps of oak, green tobacco leaf and spicy notes. Best poured with pasta in tomato-based sauce or veal parmigiana. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Domaine J. Boulon Morgon 2009
AOC Morgon $19.95 (241166) 13.0% alcohol
Red berry fruit and hints of toast on the nose, this delivers a persistent stream of red cherry and dark berry fruit over the palate and through the nicely balanced dry finish. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a moderating seam of good acidity making each sip as good or better than the one before. Pours well with a mixed deli board or turkey leftovers. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine du Vieux ‘Télégraphe la Crau’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2008
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $72.95 (951475) 15.1% alcohol
This opens with a subtle nose of cherry, spice and strawberry aromas. It’s mid weight with fair texture and oodles of red raspberry and mulberry melding with loads of spice, assorted herbs and a solid spine of acidity. The finish is spice-laden augmented by black plum and dark berry fruit. It’s from a challenging vintage sandwiched between two beauties, ‘07 and ‘09. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Grand Veneur ‘Les Champauvins’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $18.95 (76331) 15.0% alcohol
Here’s a knock-your-socks-off, value red with the concentration and power of a Châteauneuf at a fraction the price. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, this wine delivers a stream of plush rich fruit, vanilla and faintly autumnal notes. Dry, beautifully silky, medium-full bodied, it displays a wonderful balance of subtle structure, freshness and spiced fresh raspberry with blackberry fruit and recurring earthy notes. It’s pleasing, harmonious and finishes lengthy and warm. Pair with duck cassoulet now to 2018. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Masseria Altemura ‘Sasseo’ Primitivo 2008
IGT Salento $16.95 (230573) 13.5% alcohol
Bramble berry pie, tobacco and spice interweave with fig and dried currant aromas on the warm, friendly nose. The palate’s coated with a gusher of rich, sweet fruit with black currant preserve and dried dark berry fruit dominant. It’s a crowd-pleasing effort with the price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. The long fruity finish is delicious. Good on its own, versatile at the table—pairing well with spicy gourmet sausage, meat-laden pizza or spicy wings. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Michele Castellani ‘Cinque Stelle’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006
DOC Valpolicella $52.95 (75127) 15.5% alcohol
There are boatloads of fig, raisin and chocolate aromas mingling with espresso roast and black plum on the expressive nose. Concentrated rich flavours wash over the palate in waves with juicy black cherry, tangy black currant interlaced with espresso roast and black licorice. Mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a long delectable aftertaste, this is one gorgeous Amarone. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Vineau Corvina 2007
IGT Veronese $12.95 (230649) 13.5% alcohol
Corvina is often blended with Rondinella and Molinara producing red wine from the Valpolicella region—Amarone, Ripasso, Recioto, Passito and others—unusual to see a single-varietal Corvina. Spicy, gamy, dark coffee and buttered toast on the nose, it sports a balanced flow of juicy tangy flavour over the palate with bramble berry, kitchen spice and red cherry predominant. It’s hard to find better than this at the price. After checking to see that I have mine, pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: November 26, 2011

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Oyster Bay ‘Hawkes Bay’ Merlot 2010
Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand $18.95 (692343) 13.5% alcohol
Oyster Bay has two wildly popular Vintages Essentials—Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay—this Merlot may be the pearl in the oyster. Black spice-laden plum, wisps of wood smoke and espresso roast aromas provide segue to an über smooth and mellow mouthful of dark, juicy berry fruit, plummy tones and sweet, ripe black cherry. It’s medium bodied with creamy texture and a balanced fruit-forward aftertaste. Versatile at the table, it pairs well with roast chicken, leg of lamb or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages - This is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores.

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Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (316570) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of zesty grass and nettles meld with tropical fruit and citrus on the expressive nose. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel showering flavour over the palate and lengthy aftertaste—tangy lemon-lime, ripe melon and crisp gooseberry. The refreshing finish is balanced and mouth-watering delicious. One of the best SB tasted from this reliable premium producer. (Vic Harradine)

New in LCBO Portfolio

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Inniskillin ‘Tenacity – Red’ 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (264788) 13.5% alcohol
Blending Cab Franc, Pinot Noir and Merlot, this hand-harvested red blend was aged 14 months in French Oak. Spice-laden aromas of Damson plum, cedar and wood smoke presage a spirited wash of tangy red cherry and racy red currant. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a balanced, refreshing, lip-smacking aftertaste. This truly shines with food; pour alongside meat-laden pizza or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Inniskillin ‘Tenacity – White’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (265264) 12.5% alcohol
This white blend—Chardonnay, Riesling, Muscat and Gewürztraminer—jumps from the glass with perfumed aromas of rose petal, spice and pear. Medium weight with good mouth feel, it’s easy going on the palate with flavours of ripe orchard fruit and crisp on the dry, refreshing finish where citrus notes come into play. Pour with lighter-styled appetizers—fish, seafood, chicken, veal or pork. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

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Inniskillin ‘Winemakers Series – P3’ Pinot Blanc–Pinot Gris–Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 12.5% alcohol
A unique Pinot blend and a winemaker’s passion coalesce in this gem. Tropical fruit, honeysuckle, crème brulée and floral notes blossom from the glass. There’s a gorgeous, palate-coating, mélange of flavour—poached pear, honeyed lemon and ripe pineapple predominant. It’s mid weight with a generous mouth feel sporting a balanced, refreshing, lip-smacking aftertaste. Here’s a link to purchase from Inniskillin Winery or visit their Winery Boutique, Niagara-on-the-Lake. (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment Wine

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Ewald Gruber ‘Roschitz’ Grüner Veltliner 2010
Weinviertel DAC, Neiderösterreich, Austria $17.10 12.5% alcohol
Clean crisp and refreshing throughout, there’s a mélange of flavours—peach, citrus and plum—riding a riveting spine of good acidity interlaced with peppery spice. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and bolstered by a tangy, racy aftertaste of lemon-lime. Pour alongside prawn or scallop ceviche or pan-seared fish under a squirt of fresh lemon. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

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Ewald Gruber ‘Selektion Hundspoint’ Grüner Veltliner 2010
Weinviertel, Neiderösterreich, Austria $21.50 13.0% alcohol
There’s a broad flavour profile coupled with excellent acidity and a lengthy, lip-smacking finish that sets this well above ordinary. Crisp apple, ripe pear, yellow plum and white grapefruit pith race over the palate infusing the long finish. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured pouring well with skillet-seared calamari rings of mussels steamed in white wine sauce. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Ewald Gruber ‘Terrasse Reipersberg’ Grüner Veltliner 2010
Weinviertel DAC, Neiderösterreich, Austria $20.60 12.5% alcohol
Hints of pepper and spice, lemongrass and green apple meander through the quiet nose. A refreshing wash of Green Gage plum, ripe pear and racy lemon intermingles with nuances of pineapple on the palate and mid-length finish. It’s clean and crisp, mid weight with a smooth texture. Pair with oyster Kilpatrick or steamed clams. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

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Hannes Sabathi Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Gamlitz, Südsteiermark, Austria $24.50 12.5% alcohol
Harvested from a low-yielding cool vintage, this delivers classic cool-climate SB aromas and flavours. Grass, nettles and herbaceous aromas provide segue to a clean, crisp, laser-like river of bracing lemon, racy gooseberry with loads of spice on the palate and refreshing aftertaste. This pours well on its own as a mouth-watering aperitif or alongside appetizers or mains of pan-seared freshwater fish. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Kettle Valley Winery Merlot 2007
Okanagan Valley $31.70 13.5% alcohol
Kettle Valley is a family-owned, very successful winery on the prestigious Naramata Bench where a portion of this was sourced. Plum, spice and tapenade aromas on the nose, there’s a gusher of rich and succulent palate-coating flavour with black currant, maraschino cherry and spice-infused dark plum prominent. It’s medium-full bodied and smooth as silk sporting a lingering finish with a ripe tannin underpinning. It’s good to go now and flirted with 4½ stars. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Julian Reynolds ‘Art and Tradition – Reserva’ 2005
Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal $27.05 13.5% alcohol
The lifted nose of this red blend—Alicante Bouschet, Aragonês and Trincadeira—delivers exotic spice and incense mingling with dark bramble berry presaging a delightful wash of tangy red cherry, red currant and black licorice. There’s good weight and mouth feel along with deft balance and a brief aftertaste. Ratchets up a couple of notches poured with hearty food like osso bucco or rabbit stew. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Weinberghof Fritsch ‘Steinberg’ Grüner Veltliner 2010 

Wagram, Austria $20.50 12.5% alcohol
This flagship wine, from the single-vineyard ‘Steinberg’ plot, recently converted to biodynamic viticulture and viniculture practices. Mineral/slate and green apple on the nose, it washes the palate with a tangy, racy river of ripe pear and Granny Smith apple interwoven with lemongrass, peppery notes and racy citrus. There’s depth of flavour, excellent acidity and a touch of elegance. It punches well above the price with the quality-price balance tipped wildly in your favour. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Weinberghof Fritsch ‘Wagram’ Grüner Veltliner 2010 

Wagram, Austria $17.30 12.0% alcohol
Mineral and floral aromas mingle with hints of pepper and spice in this mid-weight generously textured Grüner. The palate’s treated to rich and succulent flavours with white peach and racy citrus to the fore. The aftertaste replays the flavour from the palate and finishes in a blaze of lip-smacking tang. With good complexity and loads of nerve and verve, this stands up well to freshly shucked briny oysters under a squeeze of fresh lemon adorned by a drop or two of Tabasco©. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

***1/2 drink now
Funambule ‘Vintners Select’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot 2010
IGP Pays d’Oc, France $11.95 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a red blend that’s straightforward and bistro-styled matching up well with spicy wings, gourmet burgers, and pizza; it’s people and food friendly. Cherry cordial and sweet, dark, berry fruit on the nose, it rolls over the palate with ripe cherry and mixed berry fruit mingling with nuances of spice and floral notes. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. Order by the case for delivery via agent Dave Coutts at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..  (Vic Harradine) 

Cheers, Vic and Susan