Winecurrent

October 1, 2011 Vintages Release

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • Thanksgiving Turkey Partners – Stoney Ridge Cranberry Wine 2009 @ $16.95 under Fruit Wine; Painter Bridge Chardonnay 2010 @ $12.95 under New in the LCBO; Le Clos Jordanne ‘Talon Ridge Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2009 @ $40. under Ontario: White Wine.
  • Pumpkin Pie Pairings – Fleur du Cap ‘Noble Late Harvest’ 2008 @ $20.95 (375 mL) under Dessert Wine; Château Doisy-Védrines 2007 @ $29. (375 mL) under France: White Wine; Royal Tokaji ‘5 Puttonyos’ Tokaji Aszú 2006 @ $19.95 (250 mL) under Hungary: White Wine.
  • Susan Selects - Vineland Estates ‘St. Urban’ Riesling 2009 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Ontario: White Wine and Luigi Bosca ‘Single Vineyard’ Malbec 2008 4½ stars @ $20.95 under Argentina: Red Wine
  • Vic’s Picks – Iron Horse ‘Wedding Cuvée’ 2007 4 ½ stars @ $21.95 under Sparkling Wine and Pellassa ‘San Vito’ Roero Arneis 2010 4½ stars @ $21.35 under Consignment Wine following the Main Release.
  • Finding Waldo – It’s a charming red with depth and structure from cool-ish Coonawarra—4½ stars @ $27.95
This winecurrent newsletter reviews +70 wines from $9.95 to $93.95 and begins with a feature from the Vintages Release catalogue on Syrah/Shiraz followed by wines reviewed in order of the Main Release and wines available in the LCBO Portfolio section of stores. By clicking on the LCBO number (in brackets) in each review, you can search store inventories to find the store nearest you with stock. Stores usually have stock posted on the Friday before the release date and many stock shelves late on that Friday. There’s also one wine, an 11-year-old Sparkling Wine reviewed under New in Ontario Wineries.

It concludes with Consignment Wine and Private Order Wine—wines available to order by the case from agents that will deliver to your home or office. These wines are purchased by restaurants and ‘in the know’ wine lovers. Read this… and you’ll be a wine lover who’s in the know.

Feature: Syrah/Shiraz – Northern Rhône

****1/2 cellar
Domaine de Bonserine ‘La Sarrasine’ Côte-Rôtie 2008
AOC Côte-Rôtie $49.95 (606442) 13.0% alcohol
This winery was purchased in 2006 by E. Guigal, the doyen of Côte-Rôtie. Smoke, dark-coffee roast and gamy notes interweave with spice and berry fruit on the nose while the palate’s treated to a superb river of dark berry fruit, cedar and cassis. It’s medium bodied with good texture and deftly integrated oak. There’s a firm tannin presence and a lingering tangy, juicy aftertaste. Drink 2015 on to +2022. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitages 2007
AOC Crozes-Hermitages $24.95 (704908) 13.0% alcohol
Deep ruby, this is a very attractive classic wine of the Rhône Valley. Compelling aromas of berry fruit, spice, smoke and a hint of licorice replay on the palate. Dry, medium-full bodied, displaying perceptible tannin, it offers the tang of raspberry and blackberry, hints of nutty toast and a fresh lengthy finish. Serve with duck confit, venison tenderloin or other full-flavoured meats, or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

Feature: Syrah/Shiraz – Australia

**** drink or cellar
Barossa Valley Estate ‘Ebenezer’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (971705) 14.5% alcohol
Quiet aromas of dark berry fruit mingling with fennel and savoury notes provide segue to a racy, robust river of red cherry and red currant flavour with good depth and concentration. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and a lingering aftertaste of red cherry and ripe mulberry. The resolving tannin adds good structure. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Beckett’s Flat ‘Margaret River’ Shiraz 2005
Margaret River, Western Australia $21.95 (585869) 13.5% alcohol
Kitchen spice, black currant and toasty oak on the nose, this is well balanced with red fruit flavour and a backbone of good acidity. From the coolest vintage in almost 25 years, the fruit shows well here—red currant, red cherry and cranberry—melding comfortably with spice and espresso roast. It’s medium bodied with good texture and pairs up well with pasta Bolognese or chicken parmigiana. (Vic Harradine)

***** cellar
Elderton ‘Command Single Vineyard’ Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $93.95 (716142) 14.5% alcohol
Listed on Australia’s prestigious Langton’s Classification in the ‘Excellent’ category, this delivers vintage after vintage and ages well. Aromas of smoke and berry fruit rip from this full-bodied, beautifully balanced red. It’s a hedonist’s delight with waves of rich and luscious flavours—sweet, ripe mulberry, juicy Bing cherry and nuances of earth and slate—washing endlessly over the palate and dry, lengthy aftertaste. There’s also oak and a solid tannin structure needing time to knit in. Good to go 2014 to +2020. Poured well with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mitolo ‘G.A.M.’ Shiraz 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $43.95 (596031) 14.5% alcohol
Not a twist on GSM and nothing to do with legs, the G.A.M. are the first initials of the Mitolo children—Gemma, Alex and Marco. This is deep, dark and dusty on the nose with lifted aromas of charred toast, dark berry fruit, roasted herbs mingling with fennel and earthy notes. Rich and luscious on the palate, it dishes up a mouthful of bramble berry and spice-laden black plum compote that’s nicely balanced by good acidity and underpinned by perceptible tannin. The fruit-laden aftertaste adds nuances of cassis and earthy tones. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Thorn-Clarke ‘Terra Barossa’ Shiraz 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $16.95 (595306) 14.0% alcohol
This delivers structure, complexity and balance. Rich, luscious and tangy, it coats the palate with charming, dense flavours of dark berry fruit and cassis adorned with dark-roast coffee and mint. It’s mid-full weight with generous mouth feel and deft balance throughout. The aftertaste lingers with complex flavour, you shouldn’t; the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour and it won’t be around for long. (Vic Harradine)

Feature: Syrah/Shiraz – Around the World

**** drink or cellar
Pérez-Cruz ‘Limited Edition’ Syrah 2009
Maipo Alto $19.95 (589812) 14.0% alcohol
Produced from hand-picked grapes wrested from stony soils, this is a dry, medium bodied red with layered aromas and flavours. Earthy herbal notes, a hint of balsamic, a whiff of spiced rose and the tang of ripe raspberry mingle with focused dark berry fruit. The texture’s appealingly fresh, the tannins somewhat chalky, the overall experience intriguing and it’s consistently flavourful through the long finish. Pour with lamb tagine. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Feudo ‘Principi Di Butera’ Syrah 2008
IGT Sicilia $16.95 (247510) 13.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance swings wildly in your favour and there’s easily 4 or 5 years left in this; consider laying down a few. Dark and earthy aromas—aromatic bitters, balsamic, charred toast and roasted herbs—provide segue to a rich collage of palate-coating, succulent flavours—black currant, dark plum compote and cassis mingling with gamy, underbrush notes. It’s mid weight with good texture and dry finish laced with evolving tannin. Drink now after a three-hour aeration/decant and pop more corks 2012-2016. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

**** drink now
Cálem LBV Port 2004 

DOC Douro $19.95 (912550) 20.0% alcohol 

Spice and ripe dark berry fruit on the nose, this sports a huge mouthful of cherry/berry and spice infused bramble berry on the palate and warm lengthy aftertaste. It’s silky smooth, fully textured providing good balance and value. Paired well with chocolate dessert or blue-veined cheese. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Dow’s Vintage Port 1997
DOC Douro $84.95 (546788) 20.0% alcohol
Surprisingly smooth and mellow, with still many years to go, this brims with black licorice, fig and espresso roast on the nose while the palate’s bathed with succulent cassis and spiced black plum. It’s mid weight with a fine-grained tannin underpinning and a rich and racy, lengthy aftertaste of bittersweet chocolate and dark juicy cherry. Good to go with Stilton or aged hard cheese, with chocolate dessert or a premium, hand-rolled stogie. (Vic Harradine)

Dessert Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fleur du Cap ‘Noble Late Harvest’ 2008
WO Coastal Region $20.95 375 mL (173781) 10.0% alcohol
Complex, layered and delectable, this rolls from the glass with alluring, high-toned aromas of beeswax, earthy mushroom and honeysuckle. Balanced flavours of honeyed tropical fruit, peel marmalade and spice wash in waves and linger on the endless mouth-watering aftertaste. Stunning sipped on its own, it’s poured perfectly with crème brulée or crème caramel and worth a try with pumpkin pie. (Vic Harradine)

Fruit Wine

***1/2 drink now
Stoney Ridge Cranberry Wine 2009
Quality Certified, Canada $16.95 (392191) 10.5 % alcohol
There’s a theme here and it’s cranberry, from the colour through the aromas and flavours to the bright fresh finish. True to the tangy - sweet flavour of this quintessentially Canadian fruit, it’s also modest in alcohol. This is a natural for Thanksgiving, to whet your appetite or to be enjoyed with the main. (Susan Desjardins)

Cider

**** drink now
Pomme de Glace Original Ice Cider 2008
Quebec $23.95 (259275) (375 ml) 11.0% alcohol
Here’s a classic from la belle province, produced from the juice of 4 apple varieties. This amber-gold dessert wine tantalizes with aromas of dried apple, apple pie and a hint of honeyed fruit. Sweet, not cloying, quite luscious and full on the palate, it’s a mouthful of crisp ripe apple and honey with a fine backbone of fresh acidity. Nicely balanced, tasty and lengthy on the finish, it can be savoured alone, with Québec artisan cheese, or with an apple-based dessert. (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now
Iron Horse ‘Wedding Cuvée’ 2007
Green Valley, Russian River Valley $21.95 (707836) 13.5% alcohol
There’s incredible value in this bronze-hued beauty; it’s from one of the top U.S. sparkling wine houses, resting three years on its lees developing those gorgeous aromas and flavours with a price-quality balance tipped wildly in your favour. Biscuit, yeast and citrus on the nose, there’s a profusion of miniscule fine-bead bubbles carrying a balanced, crisp and refreshing river of racy pink grapefruit and spiced lemon pie filling flavour mingling with minerality; it’s also mouth-watering delicious. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Angel’s Gate Riesling 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench $13.95 (160523) 11.5% alcohol
Boasting pleasing fresh aromas of pear, stone fruit, crisp citrus and an elusive trace of flinty stone, this off-dry, medium-bodied Riesling displays a classic balance of vibrant acidity and tasty ripe fruit. Enjoy it now with seafood, pan-fried perch or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Coyote’s Run ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2008

VQA Four Mile Creek $17.95 (116582) 13% alcohol

Soft subtle aromas of spring flowers, citrus, slate and spice open this rich, complex and beautifully structured drop. Creamy smooth and richly textured on the palate, there’s a persistent stream of crisp refreshing flavour with ruby red grapefruit, tangy lemon and spice-infused yellow plum to the fore. Well paced, well priced and delicious, it sips well on its own or when paired with a deck chair and a good book. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Talon Ridge Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $40.00 (143974) 13.0% alcohol
The third vintage of this delicious Chardonnay offers nuanced aromas of toasty hazelnut, caramelized apple and ripe pear. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s round yet crisp and underlain with subtle minerality, the oak well integrated and the flavours complex and complementary—tangy apple and creamy pear tart. The rich fruitiness and beguiling notes of cinnamon toast harmonize on the extended finish. Structured to cellar 5-7 years, this wine’s lovely now with roast chicken or turkey. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Chardonnay 2009

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (089037) 13.0% alcohol 

This is mid weight, nicely textured and brimming with charm and flavour. Sweet vanilla, spiced tropical fruit and nutty wisps on the nose, it delivers a well-balanced, crisp and refreshing mouthful of green apple, ripe pear and lemon and lime mouth-watering citrus. It finishes in a lengthy blaze of lip-smacking flavour with nutty, oaky nuances. It’s poured well with roast chicken or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Vineland Estates ‘St. Urban’ Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (38117) 8.4% alcohol
Almost transparent in the glass, it’s very fragrant—pear, sweet citrus and a fine mineral quality. Definitively off-dry, there’s a faint hint of spritz, lovely lemon-lime flavours and traces of stone fruit and mineral balanced by a stream of fine acidity. Beautifully crafted and tasty, you’ll want more; buy a few bottles, this will cellar medium-long term. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink now
Rosehall Run ‘Cold Creek’ Cabernet Franc 2008 

VQA Prince Edward County $22.95 (149039) 12.5% alcohol 

Deep-violet hued, this was hand-harvested from a single vineyard spending 18 months in French oak. On the nose there are aromas of graphite, mineral, dark berry fruit with herbal and smoky nuances. Tangy flavours of raspberry, blackberry and a garnish of roasted herbs wash over the palate. The bright fruit flavours persist on the dry finish interwoven with a note of bittersweet chocolate underpinned with grainy tannin—decant/aerate two hours. An excellent expression of cool-climate Cabernet Franc, serve with grilled meats and veggies. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Wayne Gretzky No.99 ‘Estate Series’ Pinot noir 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (129058) 12.5% alcohol
Pale-garnet hued, earthy aromas of roast beet mingle with red berry and spice. Dry, medium bodied and firmly structured, fresh acidity underpins focused flavourful red cherry/berry fruit garnished with notes of fine herbes and spice. Well crafted and substantial, it’s excellent value and designed for cellaring medium term, but can be enjoyed now with a richly flavoured dish of braised chicken thighs and mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay 2009
Napa Valley $57.95 (709717) 13.5% alcohol
The cool ‘09 vintage made for ideal conditions for white wine and this showcases that. It’s charming with notes of elegance throughout. There are high-toned aromas of vanilla, dark toast, spice and floral notes providing segue to medium-full bodied, generously textured flavours—citrus, crisp green apple and ripe pear. The racy finish is lengthy and lip-smacking good adding nuances of tropical fruit. Versatile at the table, it pours well with lobster, roast pork or turkey. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Treana ‘White’ Viognier/Marsanne 2008
Central Coast $29.95 (11247) 14.5% alcohol
Golden-hued and brimming with heady aromas—binned apple, spice and honeysuckle—this dishes up a solid stream of tangy, rich, succulent fruit with honeyed pear, ripe apple and spice-infused yellow plum to the fore. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a long balanced, fruit-filled finish. Sporting good sweet and tang, it’ll pair well with spicy Asian cuisine like pad Thai or butter chicken. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: White Wine

**** drink now
Elk Cove Pinot Gris 2009
Willamette Valley $23.95 (955906) 13.5% alcohol
This is light on its feet, crisp and refreshing with deft balance and no shortage of charm. Floral, mineral and orchard fruit on the nose, there’s a delightful wash of flavour on the palate and throughout the mouth-watering aftertaste with racy lemon-lime interlaced with ripe apple and Bosc pear. Pour alongside lemon veal or pan-seared freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Frank Family Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa Valley $46.95 (246900) 14.5% alcohol
Mint, dark berry fruit and floral notes on the nose, this dishes up a river of nerve and verve with red currant, ripe pomegranate and red cherry mingling with ripe mulberry and cassis. It’s complex and creamy smooth on the palate with good acidity for balance. The finish layers on a ripe tannin underpinning with savoury notes. Pour with Swiss steak or pasta Bolognaise. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Perry Creek ‘Zinman’ Zinfandel 2007
El Dorado County, Sierra Foothills $18.95 (980896) 14.9% alcohol
Here’s a crowd-pleasing, balanced and beautiful Zin offering terrific value. Wood smoke and dark berry fruit on the nose, it sports restrained and complex palate-bathing flavours—espresso roast, milk chocolate and ripe, succulent cherry/berry. It’s mid weight and smoothly textured with a fruity aftertaste balanced by moderating acidity and underpinned by supple tannin. Zin lovers take note. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Stags’ Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 

Napa Valley $49.95 (996405) 14.1% alcohol 

Involved aromas—dark berry fruit, toast and tobacco, mineral notes and dark chocolate among them—waft from this medium-full bodied, nicely textured red. Fruit forward on the palate with minty cherry, cranberry and succulent mulberry, it turns racy on the finish with pomegranate and red currant mingling with hints of tar and underlain with a supple tannin structure. Good to go now after a three-hour decant, better yet 2014 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Luigi Bosca ‘Single Vineyard’ Malbec 2008
Luján de Cuyo $21.95 (74922) 14.4% alcohol
The impressive pedigree—fruit from a 70-year-old vineyard, 14 months oak aging, from a highly reputable producer—portends the quality and depth of this wine. Complex and lush aromas of berry, plum, cocoa, toasty oak and dried herbs lead the way to a full, dry velvety palate that’s equally complex. Subtly framed by ripe tannin and fine acidity, rich fruit flavours and notes of cocoa persist on the lengthy, supple finish. Drinking well now, the wine will cellar another 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink now
Hickinbotham Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
South Australia $15.95 (159632) 14.5% alcohol
Well balanced and nicely structured, this value-laden blend has an earthy autumnal character and attractive aromas of cassis and spice. Dry, full bodied, it’s loaded with spicy berry flavours and black pepper supported by perceptible tannin and fresh fruity acidity. Enjoy the tasty, fruit-filled finish now or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Mollydooker ‘The Maitre d’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
South Australia $34.95 (246629) 15.0% alcohol
Opening with powerful aromas of cedar, dark berry fruit and aromatic bitters, this medium-bodied racy red washes over the palate with tangy fruit-filled flavour—red cherry, red currant and cranberry—interwoven with notes of savoury herb and finely burnished tannin. The lengthy finish adds a layer of ripe mulberry. Pour alongside pasta in tomato sauce with grilled spicy sausage or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wolf Blass ‘Gold Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Coonawarra, South Australia $27.95 (606939) 14.5% alcohol
This shows a bit of age in the glass with a dark orange hue on the rim, and again on the nose with its perfumed bouquet of rose petals, leather and dark berry fruit. Showcasing deft balance and silky smooth texture, it bathes the palate with dark berry fruit and juicy Bing cherry interweaving depth, structure and charm. The tannin’s ripe and fine grained while the oak’s carefully integrated. There’s a world of value here. Aerate/decant three hours and pour with a thick, grilled beefsteak. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Babich ‘Black Label’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough $17.95 (9142) 14.0% alcohol
Big and substantial are not the usual terms for a Sauvignon Blanc, but they’re just right in the case of this highly fragrant wine. Inhale the aromas and savour the rich flavours of ripe tropical fruit, lime-splashed papaya, gooseberry, nettle and a hint of fresh ginger. Beautifully balanced, dry and full on the palate, this is a gorgeous wine with good zip in the fruit-filled aftertaste. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Trinity Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Hawkes Bay, North Island $19.95 (247221) 12.0% alcohol
Herb, spice and mineral on the nose, this sports a lovely backbone of racy acidity that’s balanced nicely by ripe nectarine, white peach, yellow plum and nuances of sweet apple. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a long, racy finish of gooseberry, citrus and pineapple. Pour with skillet-seared scallops over a bed of arugula adorned with garlic/lemon/olive oil vinaigrette. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Villa Maria ‘Private Bin’ Pinot Gris 2008
East Coast $13.95 (727255) 13.5% alcohol
Sweet flowers and tropical fruit aromas intro this multi-region—Gisborne, Hawkes Bay and Marlborough—light-on-its-feet Gris. Crisp and refreshing flavours of green apple, spice and pear stream over the palate in a balanced wash. It’s light-medium bodied with good mouth feel while the lengthy aftertaste showcases tangy lemon sorbet. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Wild Rock ‘Gravel Pit’ Red 2008
Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay $17.95 (163600) 14.0% alcohol
This inky purple blend of Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc appeals with rich, ripe, dark fruit and notes of spice, herbs and toasty oak. Dry, full bodied and well balanced with fresh acidity and perceptible tannin, the dark spicy fruit replays on the palate and through the savoury dry finish. Enjoy now or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

***** cellar
Château Doisy-Védrines 2007
AOC Sauternes $29.00 375 mL (98418) 13.0% alcohol
This is stylish dessert wine from primarily botrytis-affected Semillon that’s chock-full of aromas, flavour and texture. Apricot, mushroom and spice aromas waft easily from this mid-weight, generously textured, silky-smooth gem. There’s good carpentry and a solid stream of peel marmalade, honeyed tropical fruit and spiced apricot. It finishes lengthy, balanced and lip-smacking delicious. Pour alongside pumpin pie, crème brulée or crème caramel 2014 to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** drink now
Château Grand Village 2008
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $18.95 (147769) 14.0% alcohol
Lush berries, sweet spice and a hint of herbs lead to a dry, medium-bodied, nicely crafted approachable blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It’s fresh and firm, displaying lovely flavours of red and black berries—cherry, blackberry and raspberry. The finish is tangy and persistent offering tantalizing notes of herbs and toast. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Château de Bellevue Morgon 2009
AOC Morgon $19.95 (240564) 12.5% alcohol
Morgon is the second largest of 10 ‘Cru’ areas of Beaujolais with wines noted for power, meatiness and aging potential—not usual descriptors for the Gamay grape. This is rich with good concentration, depth and balance. Red cherrry and blueberry on the palate and aftertaste, it’s medium bodied, nicely textured, racy and succulent. Best poured slightly cooled with a charcuterie platter—sun-dried tomatoes, spicy olives, smelly cheese, deli meats, pâté, a baguette. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Château de Pierreux Brouilly 2009
AOC Brouilly $18.95 (5496) 13.5% alcohol
Brouilly is the largest of 10 ‘Cru’ areas of Beaujolais with wines noted for fruitiness, flavour and early drinking—usual descriptors of the Gamay grape. Exotic aromas of spice, cedar, fennel and roasted herbs provide segue to a lip-smacking wash of racy red currant, boysenberry and spice-infused black plum. It’s balanced and beautiful with a complex lingering aftertaste. Pour alongside pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils ‘Beaune du Château’ 1er Cru 2008
AOC Beaune Premier Cru $36.95 (901199) 13.5% alcohol
The hand-harvested Pinot Noir in this was sourced from 17 Premier Cru vineyards. Savoury herbs, red berry fruit and kitchen spice on the nose, this dishes up a river of red cherry, cranberry and pomegranate riding a backbone of tangy, racy acidity. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a long, dry finish. Pour now and on to 2015 with roast turkey. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine La Millière ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $47.95 (63396) 14.0% alcohol
Rich, succulent and fruit laden, heady aromas of tar, red and black berry fruit, earthiness and roasted herbs jump from the glass. Bramble berry, kirsch liqueur and black Bing cherry mingle with espresso roast, black licorice and savour herbs, coating the palate and dominating the lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured and simply delicious. Pair with grilled beef steak or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

***1/2 drink now
Domaine de Nizas Rosé 2010
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $15.95 (654988) 13.5% alcohol
Thanksgiving dinner can be heavy, given the accompaniments and the amount consumed; this dry, light-medium-bodied rosé will complement the meal without adding a lot more weight. Produced from Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, the aromas and lively flavours of raspberry, pie cherry and cranberry dominate. There’s good texture and lots of tang here while the finish is clean and refreshing. Enjoy! (Susan Desjardins)

Germany: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Dr. Hermann Riesling ‘Kabinett’ 2008 

Prädikatswein, Erdener Treppchen $16.95 (189647) 7.5% alcohol 

Definitively off-dry, this is an absolutely delightful Riesling with attractive aromas of citrus, stone fruit, mineral and a notion of petrol. It’s light-medium bodied with a silky texture and flavours reminiscent of key lime pie. There a balancing freshness that carries through on the long-lasting finish. With such low alcohol, lovely texture and sweet, fresh flavour, it’s easy to enjoy now and will cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Schloss Reinhartshausen Riesling Spätlese 2002
Prädikatswein, Erbacher Schlossberg $19.95 (129858) 8.5% alcohol
A colossally rich bouquet springs forward—exotic incense, citrus, floral and pit fruit—providing a sensuous segue to this well-priced, delectable gem. It’s blessed with sweet ripe fruit—nectarine, apple and pear—and balanced with a striking backbone of acidity. Medium-bodied and generously textured, it showcases that sweet and tang, yin and yang making it a popular pairing with spicy Asian cuisine. It’s a delicious, medium-sweet Riesling, from one of Germany’s top areas, approaching ten-years old and under $20; what more do you need to know? (Vic Harradine)

Hungary: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Royal Tokaji ‘5 Puttonyos’ Tokaji Aszú 2006
Hungary $19.95 250 mL (972836) 10.0% alcohol
This link to Royal Tokaji provides information and a video on this unique, world-class dessert wine. Exotic spice, honeyed pear and apple aromas open this heavenly scented treasure. It’s medium-bodied and silky smooth with distinctive palate-bathing flavours of quince jelly, peel marmalade and honeyed tropical fruit mingling with spice and earthy notes. It showcases perfect balance and a lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste. Divine on its own or partnered with pumpkin-based desserts. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

**** drink now
Ocone ‘Taburno’ Falanghina 2008
DOC Taburno $16.95 (255919) 12.5% alcohol
Produced on an organic estate using biodynamic methods to ensure the purest possible wine, this is a lovely, golden expression of the varietal. Highly fragrant—floral and rich with stone fruit and exotic tropical notes—this mid-weight, dry white has a crisp yet silky texture and a fresh mid-length finish. Pour alongside pan-fried cod or haddock with herb-infused butter. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Marchesi di Barolo Barolo 2005
DOCG Barolo $34.95 (168179) 14.0% alcohol
A very attractive, elegant designed-to-age wine that offers subtle alluring floral notes and aromas of earth, red fruit, toast and vanilla. Dry, medium bodied and tightly knit, the tannin’s notable while flavours of wild strawberry, pepper and spice box are balanced by fine acidity. Delivering a long intense finish, this wine is great value. Created for long-term cellaring, hold a few more years, or serve decanted accompanied by veal chops with porcini mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Caparzo Brunello Di Montalcino 2005
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $39.95 (579094) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s good value, ageability and a delicious drop. There’s a quiet nose of spice, oaky notes and berry fruit heralding a balanced, smooth as silk wash of ripe, sweet fruit—cherry, strawberry and red currant—interlaced with herbs and fennel. It’s mid weight with good carpentry and a lengthy, charming aftertaste. Good to go now, aerate/decant for two hours, and on to 2020. Pour with braised short ribs and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Giacomo Montresor Amarone della Valpolicella 2006 

DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $53.95 (204826) 15.0% alcohol 

Intensity of colour and fragrance—berry fruit, spice, earthy underbrush and subtle toasted nut—is matched on the palate. Well integrated, balanced and complex, this full-bodied red offers a lovely velvety texture, rich fruitiness and some delectable underlying notes of cocoa and toast. The lengthy finish offers a spicy lift to the rich ripe fruit. Savour it now with aged Parmigiano Reggiano or over the next several years. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Masi Toar 2007
IGT Rosso del Veronese $21.95 (342444) 13.0% alcohol
Named for the volcanic vineyard soils, the Corvina and Oseleta in this blend were separately aged in Slavonian and French Allier oak for 12 months then blended and bottle aged for a further year. Deep purple, dry, medium-full bodied and structured, the aromas and flavours offer focused intense dark fruit and subtle nuances of spice, toast and herbs through a lengthy finish. Enjoy with strongly flavoured meat dishes or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO

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Beso de Vino ‘Selección’ 2009
DO Cariñena, Spain $9.95 (231787) 13.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, roasted herbs and spice dominate the aromas of this well-balanced, value-packed red blend—85% Syrah-15% Grenache. There’s tangy, juicy, spice infused fruit on the palate and lingering aftertaste with black currant, sweet ripe mulberry and red cherry to the fore. There’s good mouth feel and just a wisp of well-integrated oak adding interest and structure. Pairs well with gourmet sausage, meat-laden pizza and just about any grilled red meat you pull off the Weber. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Cabernet-Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (454991) 13.0% alcohol
Charred toast, underbrush and spice aromas presage a juicy, tangy rush of red cherry and cranberry interwoven with savoury herbs that bathe the palate. It’s mid weight with good texture and a lip-smacking finish underpinned by supple tannin. There’s good moderating acidity throughout making it a versatile food partner with meat-laden pizza, gourmet sausage or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

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John Howard ‘Megalomaniac – Homegrown Red’ 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (260364) 13.0% alcohol
This 70% Cabernet-30% Merlot blend jumps from the glass with spice, cedar and underbrush aromas mingling with savoury herbs. There’s sweet berry fruit galore—cherry, bramble berry and black currant. It’s mid-full bodied with good mouth feel and a sweet, lengthy fruit-laden finish. This is paired perfectly with grilled back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

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Painter Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 

California $13.05 (219113) 13.0% alcohol
Black plum, toast, dark berry fruit and kitchen spice on the nose, this rambles over the palate with a mélange of balanced flavours—black currant, cherry and spice-infused boysenberry. It’s medium-full bodied and sports a lingering fruity finish that’s mouth-watering good. It gained its final ½ star on value. Pour with gourmet burgers, spaghetti Bolognese or spicy wings. (Vic Harradine)


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Painter Bridge Chardonnay 2010 

California $12.95 (230516) 13.2% alcohol
This opens with an involved nose of apple, pear, vanilla and spice. The palate’s treated to a gusher of sweet ripe fruit—peach, yellow plum and honeyed, poached pear. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and a lengthy balanced finish adorned by spice and citrus tang. Lovely sipped on its own it has the charm and oomph to pair well with roast chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)

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Rocca delle Macie ‘Campomaccione’ Morellino di Scansano 2008
DOCG Morellino di Scansano, Tuscany, Italy $12.95 (253831) 14.0% alcohol
Punching well above the price, this dishes up a delightful glass of fresh, fruity red that’s smooth and flavour-packed. Look for aromas of dark incense and cherry followed by a palate-bathing wash of dark berry fruit, red currant and savoury spice. It’s nicely textured with a refreshing, balanced, fruity aftertaste. Pour alongside white pizza, ribs, burgers or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ste. Michelle ‘14 Hands - Hot to Trot - Red Blend’ 2008
Washington State $14.95 (226522) 13.5% alcohol
A rich bouquet of exotic spice, cedar and mixed, dark, field-berry fruit spills from this mid-weight, well-textured gem. Luscious ripe sweet fruit abounds with mulberry, bramble berry and dark juicy cherry to the fore. The fruit-laden aftertaste layers on savoury herbs and wonderful moderating acidity. This earned its final half star on value. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Winzer Krems ‘Sandgrube 13’ Grüner Veltliner 2009
Niederösterreich, Austria $11.95 (589002) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of floral, orchard fruit and hints of mineral open this light-medium bodied GV. Crisp and refreshing throughout, there’s a solid backbone of acidity carrying along palate-bathing flavours of racy lemon and tangy white grapefruit. Fashioned as a well-priced, enjoyable aperitif or suitable companion for lighter appetizers or sea food, it fulfills its mission admirably. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Zvy-Gelt Zweigelt 2009
Lower Austria $12.95 (232348) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s a partner for the white wine ‘Grooner’, the popular Grüner Veltliner—they could become your white and red ‘house wine’. There are loads of spice and dark berry fruit aromas providing an introduction to a medium-bodied nicely textured wash of red cherry, ripe mulberry and spice-infused black plum flavour. It’s refreshing, easy on the wallet and sporting a balanced tangy finish. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

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Creekside Estate ‘X’ Blanc de Blancs 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $49.95 11.3% alcohol
Baking brioche, biscuit dough and activated yeast aromas abound. Multitudinous mousse—fine-bead bubbles—billows forth with crisp, green apple and riveting lemon acidity tingling on the palate and infusing the tangy, refreshing aftertaste of this vintage-dated, sparkling Chardonnay. A spectacular pairing with freshly shucked briny oysters and well matched with prawn or scallop ceviche. Available only from Creekside Estate (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment Wine

Usually takes one week for delivery. Not dipped your toe in these waters, yet? Read this…


****1/2 drink now
Laurenz V ‘Silver Bullet’ Grüner Veltliner 2008
Kamptal DAC, Austria $27.95 500 mL 13.0% alcohol
Unique in many ways—300-metre altitude single vineyard, 500 mL screw cap bottle; 40% fermented on the skins. Aromas of apple, ground pepper and minerality provide segue to a charming, generously textured wash of ripe peach, grapefruit and lemon-lime tangy flavour. It’s medium bodied and deftly balanced with a monumental crisp and refreshing aftertaste—it was tough to spit. A fifth generation vigneron—hence the Roman numeral ‘V’ in the winery name—Laurenz Moser fashioned a gem here. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Kylix Wines via phone in the GTA 905-882-1999 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)

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Leopold Grüner Veltliner 2009
Kamptal, Austria $15.50 12.5% alcohol
One of the top Grüners tasted in this price bracket. Lovely aromas of crisp green apple, mineral and lemongrass provides segue for crisp and refreshing lemon-lime sherbet, grapefruit and tangy green plum washing over the palate in waves. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and zesty finish. Order by the case for office or home delivery from agent Geoff Skeggs via email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)

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Ewald Gruber ‘Selektion - Hundspoint’ Grüner Veltliner 2010
Niederösterreich, Austria $21.50 13.0% alcohol
Classic aromas of spice and citrus mingle with orchard fruit providing segue to a broad-based palette of flavours with tropical fruit, citrus and spice infused yellow plum among them. It’s light-medium bodied and nicely textured with a crisp, refreshing aftertaste of racy white grapefruit. Pair with pan-seared prawns, scallops or calamari rings. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

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Tenuta Maggiore ‘Clelia’ Nebbiolo 2006
Vino da Tavola, Italy $18.35 13.5%
Meaty, gamy and cedar aromas waft easily from this mid-weight, nicely textured red. Black currant, juicy dark cherry and ripe mulberry interweave with exotic spice and earthy notes on the palate and dry, well-balanced finish. There’s perceptible tannin with good acidity and up-front fruit that’s woven together in this tidy package. There’s also good value in this table-friendly red; pour alongside grilled, smoked back ribs. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

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Nigl ‘Gartling’ Grüner Veltliner 2010
Kremstal, Austria $19.99 11.0% alcohol
One of the more notable entrants in a recent line-up of Grüners, this is flavourful, value-packed and fashioned by one of the region’s top producers. Crisp, clean and refreshing aromas and flavours wash over the palate—white peach, minerality, apple and racy citrus. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lip-smacking finish. Order by the case for office or home delivery from agent Aaron Shaw via email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (Vic Harradine)

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Rabl ‘Spiegel’ Grüner Veltliner 2010
Kamptal, Austria $15.95 12.5% alcohol
This is a value-packed beauty bolting from the glass with lifted aromas and lively freshness. There’s floral, nectarine and minerality on the nose before riding a river of tang with white peach, grapefruit and lemon sherbet to the fore. It’s medium bodied and generously textured finishing in a crisp, mouth-watering, blaze of flavour. Deft balance allows this to be so versatile with food, give it a go with your favourite pan-seared fish or sea food. Order by the case for office or home delivery from agent Aaron Shaw via email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pellassa ‘Antaniolo Riserva’ Roero 2007
DOCG Roero, Italy $35.50 14.5% alcohol
Quiet aromas of dark berry fruit, tar and a wisp of lilac provide segue to a tangy, juicy river of flavour with red cherry, pomegranate and black plum compote to the fore. Mid weight with good mouth feel, this Nebbiolo sports a monumental, well-balanced aftertaste—blackberry and strawberry mingling with tar and espresso roast. Surprisingly smooth and friendly at this point, it’ll improve with two more years in bottle. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

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Pellassa ‘Bricco Enrichetta’ Langhe 2009
DOC Langhe, Italy $16.65 13.5% alcohol
Floral notes, sandalwood and dark plum aromas on the nose, this balanced flavourful blend—Barbera, Dolcetto and Freisa—provides a medium-bodied, nicely textured wash of blueberry, red and black currant and red cherry that’s lively and tangy on the palate and crisp, dry finish. The aftertaste’s adorned with ripe berry fruit and spice. Lovely sipped as an aperitif, it really shines with thin-crust, meat-laden pizza. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

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Pellassa ‘San Pancrazio’ Barbera d’Alba 2010
DOCG Barbera d’Alba, Italy $22.95 14.0% alcohol
Racy, lively and full of nerve and verve, this fronts up well with a mixed deli board, spicy wings or spicy meat-laden pizza. Red cherry, watermelon and mixed field berry fruit bathe the palate infusing the aftertaste along with spice and hi-toned red currant. It’s uncomplicated, mid weight and delivers good mouth feel. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Pellassa ‘San Vito’ Roero Arneis 2010
DOCG Roero Arneis, Italy $21.35 13.5% alcohol
High-toned aromas of orchard fruit and minerality meld with wisps of floral in this silky-textured, drop-dead gorgeous, white wine. Mouth-filling white peach, honeydew melon and tangy citrus persist through the lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s mid weight and well balanced combining ripe fruit and racy acidity to perfection. Good structure and oomph here; it’s divine on its own and über-divine with white pizza or Caesar salad with grilled chicken strips. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Pellassa ‘Sot’ Nebbiolo d’Alba 2007
DOCG Nebbiolo d’Alba, Italy $26.10 14.0% alcohol
Subdued on the nose with cherry/berry and floral aromas, this ramps it up on the palate with endless waves of flavour—tangy bramble berry, racy cranberry and black licorice interwoven with nuances of toast and mixed spice. It’s held in check by a firm tannin underpinning for now and full of promise for the future. Everything’s in balance and rarin’ to go after a three-hour aeration/decant or two more years in bottle. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now
Weinberghof Fritsch ‘Erste Lage - Schlossberg’ Grüner Veltliner 2010
Wagram, Austria $31.70 13.0% alcohol
Don’t be surprised to see this bio-dynamic gem popping up on tony wine lists; it’s a stunning rendition of what can be done with this grape. Think of ‘Erste Lage’ as a Grand Cru vineyard. This is complex and structured with mind-bending flavours of blood orange, white peach and lemon chiffon pie. It’s mid weight with a silky-smooth, generous texture and a lip-smacking, crisp, refreshing finish. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

Private Order Wine

Usually takes six to eight weeks for delivery

****1/2 drink or cellar
Weingut Judith Beck Zweigelt 2009
Gols, Burgenland, Austria $19.00 12.5% alcohol
Stunning aromas and flavours abound in this value-packed red beauty. Cherry, spice-laden dark plum and nuances of earthy/mineral aromas presage a river of complex, deftly balanced fruit-filled flavour with sour cherry, ripe mulberry and dark briary berry to the fore. It’s mid weight with good texture and a sexy, lingering finish that layers on Asian spice, alluring incense and berry fruit. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Violet Hill Imports via phone in the GTA 905-586-0449 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan