Winecurrent

August 6, 2011 Vintages Release

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include: 

  • Argentina and Chile shine – find 7 wines reviewed in the Main Release earning 4 or 4½ stars… from $11.95 to $14.95. Load up the trunk.
  • 2 glasses – Susan reviews a 4½ star Cab Franc from Inniskillin in the Main Release under Ontario: Red Wine both she and Vic loved.
  • Finding Waldo – We’re stingy with 5 stars, this issue has three wines ringing the bell with two from previous releases. Always wise to give those a second look and pick up a bottle or two, if the style suits your taste.
  • Susan uncovers a gem – attending a tasting in early spring, the buzz was all around a Nova Scotia sparkling wine—it was from Benjamin Bridge in Gaspereau Valley, NS and it’s in the Main Release under Sparkling Wine.
This winecurrent newsletter begins with a mini-feature on British Columbia Wines followed by wines reviewed in the order of the Main Release in the Vintages Release catalogue. There are a number of wines reviewed in sections following the main release, always wise to scan through them.

British Columbia Wines Feature


****1/2 drink or cellar
Laughing Stock ‘Blind Trust Red’ 2008
VQA Okanagan Valley $41.95 (230110) 14.4% alcohol
These folks fashioned fairly priced, fine wine right out of the chute and nothing’s changed; always tough to spit. It’s a red blend—78% Merlot, 13% Malbec, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate’s coated with deep rich concentrated flavours of luscious kirsch liqueur, mocha and espresso roast mingling with toasty oak. It’s fully flavoured and fully textured with an outstanding finish of bramble berry and chocolate-covered black Bing cherry. Decant/aerate two hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gehringer Brothers ‘Dry Rock Vineyards’ Merlot 2009
VQA Okanagan Valley $18.95 (229898) 14.4% alcohol
A deep ruby, this enticing wine offers complexity on the nose and palate. Aromas of red berry, plum, spice, herb and smoke drift from the glass. Dry, medium bodied, there’s depth and concentration of fruit and intriguing notes of earth, char and pepper that persist on the lasting finish. An approachable, accessible wine, it gets an extra half star for value. Enjoy it with grilled rib steak or cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
See Ya Later Ranch Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $22.95 (230078) 14.5% alcohol
Almost mahogany in color, this is a dry, full-flavoured wine with a big personality. Medium bodied, the aromas are cherry/berry, spice and earth, the flavours consistent, with attractive nuances of cocoa, vanilla and pepper. There’s structure and adequate acidity to balance the powerful fruit, the hint of cocoa carrying through on the finish. This Pinot is a match for grilled beef tenderloin and portobello mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Liqueur

***** drink now
St-Germain ‘Delice de Sureau’ Liqueur Artisanale

France $49.95 (180695) 20.0% alcohol

If your desire is to inspire and captivate, then this elderflower liqueur was crafted for you! First up, the bottle’s in an Art Deco style. Then there’s the process required to transform these ephemeral spring flowers into this exotic liqueur. Open, pour, and the aromas fairly leap from the glass—stone fruit, honeyed melon, expressive white floral notes and a hint of anise. It’s decadent, richly textured with aromas replaying on the palate augmented with a whiff of tinned apricots. All that rich flavour and texture is lovingly balanced with fine acidity. The warm finish is luscious and long lasting. Perfection on its own, but destined for martinis. (Susan Desjardins)

Fortified Wine: Sherry

**** drink now
Bodegas Argüeso San Léon
DO Manzanilla Sanlùcar de Barrameda $16.95 (703066) 15.0% alcohol
Bright, clear, golden, this dry sherry displays pungency, hints of bitter almond and a whiff of salty sea breeze. Clean, smooth and refreshing on the palate, there’s a mineral note, tangy citrus peel and lingering pungency on the finish. Delicate yet powerful, with great impact. Serve wll-chilled with ceviche. (Susan Desjardins)

Champagne

***1/2 drink now
Cattier ‘Chigny-Les-Roses’ Brut Premier Cru Champagne 

Champagne, France $39.95 (919464) 12.0% alcohol

Growers for over 300 years and producers for almost a hundred has taught them a thing or two. This has lovely floral and nutty aromas with a full-bodied structure and mouth feel. Beautiful nutty and toasty flavours marry well with the clean citrussy finish. Great balance and finesse with which to welcome your friends or pair with fowl or veal. Truly exceptional value. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now
Benjamin Bridge ‘Nova 7’ 2010
Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia $25.00 (256289) 8.5% alcohol
Finally, it’s in Ontario—a winemakers’ favorite tasted this spring—don’t miss it. Benjamin Bridge has a reputation for outstanding sparkling wines selling out quickly. Nova 7 is a proprietary blend, mainly New York Muscat, created in the style of light, off-dry, Italian sparklers. Light on its feet with a delightfully fine spritz, it offers floral, peach, lime-splashed mango and mineral notes harmonized with fresh acidity creating a tangy, fruit-filled mid-length finish. Did I mention it’s wonderful? Sip for pleasure or enjoy with light summer salads in fruity vinaigrette. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Bottega Prosecco Superiore
DOCG Conegliano Valdobbiadene, Veneto $16.95 (235044) 11.5% alcohol
From one of the newer DOCG appellations, this is yeasty on the nose, dry on the palate and full of flavour. Floral, leesy and delicate fruity aromas provide segue to a bubbly river of sweet, ripe pear and apple mingling with white peach on the palate extending through the racy, dry, citrus aftertaste. Versatile, it’s a lovely welcoming wine pairing with lighter-styled hors d’oeuvre or later on with shellfish appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now
13th Street ‘White Palette’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (207340) 12.0% alcohol
The colour of pale peach skin, this blend of white varietals displays a powerful array and depth of aromas—pungency matched by stone and tropical fruit notes, faint floral and grassy nuances. Just off dry and medium bodied, the underlying seam of acidity balances sweet spiced stone fruit and pink grapefruit. There’s harmony on the finish—fruity complexity and refreshing tang. It’s a lovely sipping wine. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Fielding Estate Winery ‘Estate Bottled’ Pinot Gris 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (251108)12.0% alcohol 

Citrus, spice and savory herbs dominate the aromas while the palate’s treated to a racy rush of white grapefruit, crisp green apple and spiced yellow plum carried on a spine of tangy acidity. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a crisp refreshing finish replaying hints of spice with undertones of apple and pear. A great patio sipper and even better with food—steamed mussels, grilled garlic prawns or pasta in creamy white sauce with clams. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Flat Rock ‘Unplugged’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (68015) 13.0% alcohol
It’s unplugged in G major—Gorgeous, Generous, Great value. Perfumed aromas waft easily from this mid-weight, generously textured beauty—kitchen spice, apple and pear. There’s a balanced wash of gorgeous flavour throughout with soft lemon, nectarine and spice box predominant. It finishes crisp, refreshing and lip-smacking good. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Henry of Pelham Pinot Blanc 2010
VQA Short Hills Bench $14.95 (618827) 12.0% alcohol
Almost clear with a faint green tinge, this is a bright, lively wine offering refreshing aromas and flavours of pear, peach and lime. Dry, light-medium bodied, the subtle minerality, vivid acidity and smooth finish make it a go-to wine on a warm summer day. Refreshing on its own, it also pours well with lighter-styled appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Peninsula Ridge ‘McNally Vineyards’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009 

VQA Beamsville Bench $17.95 (243147) 13.5% alcohol 

Clean, crisp and refreshing, this splashes into the glass accompanied by aromas of green apple and citrus with nuances of mineral and leafy tones. Medium bodied with a distinctive soft mouth feel, there’s an abundance of flavour with pit fruit, grapefruit zest and hints of gooseberry dominant. It finishes zesty and looking for a partner—mussels steamed in white wine sauce or pan-seared freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar two glasses
Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series Two Vineyards’ Cabernet Franc 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 (241539) 13.5% alcohol
This is impressive, award-winning and concentrated in aromas and flavours that Vic and I loved. There’s complexity on the nose with blackberry, raspberry, smoke, floral and earthy aromas. It’s dry, medium-full bodied with a core of berry fruit replaying in harmony with fine tannin and lively acidity on the palate. The texture’s smooth with notes of spice and underbrush on the lengthy, fruity finish. Pair with full-flavoured meat dishes now or keep for 2-3 years. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Bogle Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
California $17.95 (904565) 13.5% alcohol
Offering good value, this Bogle Cab’s quite a crowd pleaser. Expect a rich mouthful of tangy, juicy dark fruit with black currant, sweet ripe mulberry and black plum compote to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured with a long fruit-filled aftertaste layering on juicy black raspberry. Good to go now with burgers, steak or spicy gourmet sausage pulled from your Weber. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Freemark Abbey Merlot 2008
Napa Valley $29.95 (001602) 14.4% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of spice, toasty oak and red berry fruit roll from this medium-bodied, well-textured red. Rich and luscious, the complex flavours—rich Bing cherry, juicy blood plum and sweet boysenberry—are framed by good moderating acidity and underpinned by solid tannin structure. It’s deftly balanced with a lengthy luxurious finish adorned with aromatic dark berry fruit. Decant/aerate for two hours or pull the cork 2013 to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Matchbook Syrah 2007
Dunnigan Hills $18.95 (235978) 14.3% alcohol
This is a tasty dry, medium-full bodied wine laden with enticing aromas—dark berry, spiced vanilla and attractive herbal notes. On the palate there’s a generous dark fruit core—blueberry, plum and raspberry—and a nice spicy peppery tang. Fine-grained tannin, fresh fruity acidity and a lengthy finish complete the package. Good value and a great wine to share at an informal barbeque. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Rodney Strong ‘Knotty Vines’ Zinfandel 2008
Northern Sonoma $22.95 (363358) 15.1% alcohol
Flavour packed and value laden, a tidal wave of rich luscious flavour—bramble berry, black licorice and kirsch liqueur—follow a lifted nose of tobacco, dried herbs and cherry aromas. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a long juicy fruit-laden finish; what’s not to like? Spicy grilled back ribs pair well with this crowd pleaser. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Seghesio ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2008
Sonoma County $39.95 (56879) 15.5% alcohol
From two great Zin appellations—Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys—and a top-drawer Zin producer, this delivers charm, structure and a juicy mouthful of seriously delicious red wine. Loads of mixed spice, savoury herbs and dark field berry aromas precede endless waves of intense, palate-coating flavour with black currant, bramble berry jam and espresso roast predominant. It’s mid-full weight and creamy smooth with a lengthy, fruit-filled finish adorned with excellent moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Firesteed Pinot Noir 2009
Oregon $17.95 (361782) 12.7% alcohol
This cool-climate Pinot Noir delivers attractive aromas of spiced strawberry-rhubarb pie and an earthy character. Dry, medium-bodied, it has a lively texture, fresh red berry fruit flavours and hints of spice that last through the dry mid-length finish. Enjoy with grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: White Wine

**** drink now
Dominio del Plata ‘Crios de Susana Balbo’ Torrontés 2009 

Cafayate $11.95 (001834) 13.5% alcohol 

This is excellent value with lifted floral and spicy tropical fruit aromas that persist on the palate. It’s dry, medium bodied with a great core of fruit and fresh citrusy acidity that carries through on the lingering finish. A few bottles to share with friends won’t go amiss. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink now
Zuccardi ‘Organica’ Malbec 2010
Mendoza $13.95 (236224) 13.0% alcohol
Dry, medium-full bodied, this is an approachable wine with crowd-pleasing aromas and flavours of dark berries, cherries and spice. Easy-drinking, there’s a nice peppery lift and a hint of chocolate on the finish. Produced from organic grapes, it gets the extra half star for value. Pick up a few bottles for casual summer BBQs. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: White Wine

**** drink now
Anakena ‘Lilén Single Vineyard’ Viognier 2010
Requinoa $13.95 (45138) 13.5% alcohol
A golden cascade into the glass foreshadows the smooth texture and lovely balance of this dry, medium-full bodied wine. Tangy aromas tantalize the nose—floral, stone and tropical fruit. The fruit replays on the palate with a stream of refreshing citrus acidity and the characteristic touch of pithiness coming through on the lasting finish. Great value, enjoy with barbequed shrimp and grilled vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Anakena ‘Single Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2009
Leyda Valley $13.95 (208439) 13.5% alcohol
This is very good value and worth a long look; it’s full of herb, spice and gamey notes on the nose and loaded with sweet, ripe fruit on the palate—black cherry and spice-infused black plum. How good is that? It’s medium weight with a satin smooth texture sporting a balanced fruit-laden aftertaste. Uncomplicated and straightforward, it’s also versatile at the table; pair with spicy grilled ribs, spicy gourmet sausage or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Viña Canepa ‘Reserva Privada’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Maipo Valley $13.95 (412031) 13.5% alcohol
You won’t find many decent Cabs at this price; it’s value-packed and great with the Broil King—burgers, steaks or roasts. Charred toast, oak and mixed field berry fruit dominate the nose while the palate’s treated to a persistent wash of juicy black currant and cassis. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with good acidity and a fine-grained tannin underpinning. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chateau Los Boldos ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Merlot 2007 

Rapel Valley $18.95 (16006) 13.5% alcohol 

Dark ruby red, almost opaque, lifted aromas billow from this mid-weight, generously textured beauty—toasty oak, black licorice, gobs of dark berry fruit and sprigs of savoury herb and spice. There’s a complex and well-structured rush of earthy and fruity flavour—ripe black currant, succulent juicy Bing cherry and savoury notes. It finishes lengthy with a nice base of fine-grained tannin and good balance. Good to go now and on to 2017. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Chilensis ‘Reserva’ Carmenère 2010
Maule Valley $12.95 (657981) 14.0% alcohol
This is rock-solid 4 stars brimming with juicy, tangy fruit and terrific value. Perfumed aromas billow from this fruit-filled red—well-integrated toasty oak mingling with dark berry fruit and cedar. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with solid tannin underpinning and oodles of fruit flavour—boysenberry and dark juicy cherry to the fore. Decant/aerate two hours or pour 2012-2016. Either way, give it a go with grilled beefsteak under a generous patty of blue-veined cheese. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2drink now
Concha Y Toro ‘Terrunyo Block 27’ Carmenère 2007
Peumo Vineyard, Peumo, Cachapoal Valley $29.95 (562892) 14.5% alcohol
Rich, ripe and juicy, it’s layered, involved with good depth of flavour and loads of charm; it’s a well-structured red that’s also well priced. Layered, lush aromas and intense flavours abound. Smoke, tar and dark berry fruit aromas precede a gusher of fully textured rich cassis, ripe juicy Bing cherry and spice-infused black currant. The flavour persists through the involved, well-balanced, lengthy aftertaste—simply delicious. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Emiliana ‘Adobe Reserva’ Sryah 2009
Rapel Valley $12.95 (213553) 14.0% alcohol
Deep purple, this award-winning organic wine is highly fragrant with aromas of spicy rose, dark berries, licorice and smoke. Dry, medium-full bodied and well structured, the rich ripe black berry flavours caress the palate along with subtle peppery smoky notes persisting through the finish. Grilled red meat and a few bottles will liven the party. There’s an extra half star for excellent value. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Luis Felipe Edwards ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2009
Colchagua Valley $14.95 (236497) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit, mulling spice and espresso roast presage a juicy wash of flavourful black berry, kirsch liqueur and sweet ripe bramble berry. It’s flavour-packed with deft balance, a creamy texture and a lengthy juicy aftertaste layering on good moderating acidity. Very good value indeed, and good to go now with grilled strip loin or roast leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Viña Montes ‘Purple Angel’ 2007
Colchagua Valley $49.95 (62364) 15.0% alcohol
Rarefied, iconic and one of Chile’s top drops, it rips from the glass with Asian spice, floral notes and nuances of black pepper and vanilla. Palate-coating flavours abound with enormous waves of bramble berry, red and black currant interlaced with espresso roast and tarry notes. It’s full-bodied, beautifully structured and generously textured with a solid underpinning of perceptible tannin requiring patience; drink 2015 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Santa Ema ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Maipo Valley $16.95 (175422) 14.0% alcohol
This sports a fruit-forward wave of well-balanced and nicely structured flavour at an attractive price. Spice box, dark berry fruit and toasty notes dominate the nose while rich luscious flavours wash over the palate—cassis, chocolate-covered cherry and lip-smacking, racy red berry fruit. The lengthy aftertaste showcases deft balance of fruit and moderating acidity. Try with grilled rack of lamb or a vegetarian creation of oiled, grilled peppers, onions, zucchini with portobello-mushroom burgers. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Heartland Shiraz 2008
Longhorne Creek/Limestone Coast, South Australia $19.95 (661934) 14.5% alcohol
A hedonistic treasure trove of aromas and flavours, it’s brash, bold and brawny. Rich luscious flavours wash in waves persisting through the lengthy aftertaste—cassis, sweet ripe mulberry and juicy, tangy black Bing cherry adorned with fennel. It’s full bodied with good mouth feel and a perfect pairing with smoked and spicy, grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Peter Lehmann ‘Layers’ 2008

Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (138883) 14.5% alcohol

Full bodied and fully textured, this is also a full-bore delicious red blend that’s well priced. Savoury spice and dark berry fruit aromas segue palate-coating flavours of minty black currant, chocolate dipped cherries and spiced black plum. With barely a hint of oak or tannin, this is plush and accessible; it drinks well on its own and has the oomph to pair well with grilled strip loin or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Pillar Box ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Padthaway, South Australia $19.95 (199745) 14.5% alcohol
This is the initial vintage of the ‘Reserve’ and it’s showing very well. Perfumed aromas of dark field berry fruit, eucalyptus and savoury herbs presage a rich, tangy and luscious wash of blueberry, black raspberry and black plum compote. Mid weight and nicely textured, it finishes in a well-balanced trilogy of ripe fruit, subtle tannin and excellent moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (677450) 13.5% alcohol
This won’t disappoint fans of quintessential, racy, tangy Marlborough SB; it’s a wine you’d like to get in a blind-tasting competition. Lifted sharp aromas of gooseberry and passion fruit pervade the nose presaging a river of tangy pineapple and lemon-lime zest. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a laser-like searing finish. Give it a go with freshly shucked, briny oysters. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Sileni ‘Cellar Selection’ Pinot Gris 2010
Hawkes Bay $14.95 (32292) 12.5% alcohol
Fruity, medium bodied and tasty, this wine offers appealing aromas and flavours—a basket of stone and orchard fruit and a dash of lime. Well structured, flavourful and fresh on the finish, it’s a good choice for grilled white meats. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Flagstone ‘Dark Horse’ Shiraz 2008
WO Western Cape $17.95 (127654) 14.5% alcohol
Charred wood smoke and dark berry fruit coupled with gamey notes on the nose introduce palate-coating flavours of juicy boysenberry and black currant adorned with notes of savoury herbs and aromatic bitters. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel framed by moderating acidity and a solid tannin presence. Pour with grilled smoked back ribs slathered in spicy sauce. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** cellar
Seigneurs d’Aiguilhe 2009
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux $19.95 (195172) 14.0% alcohol
Involved aromas of kitchen spice, black plum and hints of pencil shaving are precursor to balanced waves of rich boysenberry and racy red cherry mingling with distinctive kirsch liqueur. Medium weight and nicely textured, the lingering finsh is dry and juicy showcasing good balance between fruit and acidity with both solidly underpinned by perceptible tannin. Drink 2014 to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Jean-Paul Brun ‘Terres Dorées’ Côte de Brouilly 2009
AOC Côte de Brouilly $18.95 (235127) 12.5% alcohol
From a tiny enclave in a well-regarded Cru appellation, hill slopes afford fruit greater ripeness via optimum sun exposure. Grapey and slate on the nose, it sports a steady stream of juicy tangy flavour with racy red currant, boysenberry and red cherry streaming through the lively, lingering finish. It flashes a solid tannin structure giving oomph to pour well with grilled ribs and steaks as well as roast pork and poultry. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Armand Soleïdor Cairanne Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $16.95 (237560) 14.5% alcohol
Balanced and beautiful, look for aromas of toast, gamey notes and mixed spice as precursor to rich, ripe fruit-laden flavours with bramble berry, Bing cherry and black currant to the fore. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy aftertaste. Decant/aerate two hours before serving alongside gigot d’agneau. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cave de Rasteau ‘Ortas les Haut du Village Rouge’ 2006 

AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages Rasteau $24.95 (581785) 14.5% alcohol 

Made only in best vintages, this blend—Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache—is dense, layered and succulent. Exotic aromas of licorice, espresso and tarry notes give way to a luscious mouthful of juicy flavour bathing the palate in waves —cassis, dark ripe brambleberry and Bing cherry. It’s medium bodied and generously textured offering a deftly balanced lengthy aftertaste. Divine paired with braised beef short rib. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Les Vignerons de Visan ‘Visan’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $12.95 (179234) 14.0% alcohol
Ruby in the glass, this dry, medium-bodied Rhône blend is all about ripe berries, spice and herbs de Provençe. Smooth and round on the palate, supple tannin and fresh acidity balance the intense fruit core, those lovely flavours carrying through the mid-length finish. Approachable and flavourful, it gets an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Rosé Wine

**** drink now
Domaine Corne-Loup Tavel Rosé 2010
AOC Tavel $16.95 (71209) 13.5% alcohol
Bone dry, flavourful and tangy, this opens with lovely aromas of spice, strawberry and red raspberry that replay on the palate. It’s light-medium bodied with good texture and a crisp refreshing finish. Mouth-watering on the balcony or patio, it pours well with white pizza, chicken Caesar salad or smoked salmon. Tavel makes only Rosé primarily from red grapes—méthode saignée—mainly Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre and others, along with a small portion of white grapes. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

**** drink now
Torre Varano ‘Taburno’ Falanghina 2009
DOC Taburno $14.95 (106351) 13.0% alcohol
Perfumed and perfectly suited as an aperitif, this also has the oomph to pair with veal medallions in whiskey cream sauce or chicken à la king. Rich, ripe and beautiful on the nose and palate, it brims with aromas—white peach mingling with floral and spice—and flavour—crisp apple, ripe pear and a solid citrus underpinning. It’s medium-full bodied with generous texture and a lengthy balanced, perfumed aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Teruzzi & Puthod Vernaccia Di San Gimignano 2010
DOCG Vernaccia Di San Gimignano $15.95 (735373) 12.5% alcohol
A soft and delicate nose offers aromas of floral, mineral and nutty notes. There’s a lovely wash of flavour with crisp acidity nicely balanced off with green apple and apricot followed by a peach–pit bite and an underlying hint of tannin. It finishes with grapefruit pith and minerality. It’s an atypical white, well worth a try alongside grilled, crumbled chèvre over arugula lightly tossed with garlic oil. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rocca delle Macìe Chianti ‘Riserva’ 2006

DOCG Chianti $15.95 (111641) 13.5% alcohol

Principally Sangiovese with a dash of Cabernet and Merlot, the wine was aged 24 months in large barrels and is another great value from a well-established producer. Deep and opaque in appearance, intense aromas of lush, dark fruit, chocolate, leather and toast waft from the glass. It’s mid weight with luxurious berry pie fruit, spice and pepper. It’s balanced with supple tannin and fine acidity. The finish is lengthy, dry and fruity. At this price, you should spring for a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Real Sitio de Ventosilla ‘Recorba’ Crianza 2006
DO Ribera del Duero $16.95 (236950) 14.5% alcohol
The exotic, spice-filled aromas spill from the glass with high-toned dark berry fruit and sweet coconut galore. A gusher of tangy, juicy cherry, cassis and spice-infused blood plum showers the palate and lengthy balanced finish. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy smooth texture delivering a lip-smacking, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. The French and American oak has been well integrated. Good to go now poured alongside grilled spicy chorizo. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Burgo Viejo Reserva 2004
DOCa Rioja $18.95 (168823) 13.5% alcohol
Mixed field berry fruit and nuances of leather swirl from the nose of this delightfully racy Tempranillo. Juicy, succulent, red berry fruit bathes the palate—racy currant, tangy pomegranate and lip-smacking cranberry. Medium bodied with generous mouth feel and balanced to perfection, it finishes lip-smacking good with ripe black plum compote and black cherry. Pour now with tapas—warm Serrano ham on tomato-rubbed toast or bacon-wrapped cheese-stuffed jalapeno peppers. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: October 1, 2011

**** drink now
Rosehall Run ‘Cold Creek’ Cabernet Franc 2008
VQA Prince Edward County $22.95 (149039) 12.5% alcohol
Deep-violet hued, this was hand-harvested from a single vineyard spending 18 months in French oak. On the nose there are aromas of graphite, mineral, dark berry fruit with herbal and smoky nuances. Tangy flavours of raspberry, blackberry and a garnish of roasted herbs wash over the palate. The bright fruit flavours persist on the dry finish interwoven with a note of bittersweet chocolate underpinned with grainy tannin—decant/aerate two hours. An excellent expression of cool-climate Cabernet Franc, serve with grilled meats and veggies. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: November 26, 2011

***** drink or cellar
Masi Serego Alighieri ‘Casal dei Ronchi’ Recioto 2007
DOC Recioto della Valpolicella Classico $32.95 (962431) 500 mL 14.0% alcohol
Unique and irresistible, be the first in your circle to pour this. It’s a red blend, opaque and highly perfumed—kirsch liqueur and briary berry fruit. Sweet succulent boysenberry and spice coat the palate mingling with nuances of dark chocolate and juicy black Bing cherry. The amazing aftertaste is balanced and clean with the second glass better than the first. Stunning dessert wine easily served on its own. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: February 2012

****1/2 drink or cellar
Masi ‘Brolo di Campofiorin’ 2006
IGT Rosso del Veronese $24.95 (976092) 14.1% alcohol
‘Brolo’ is a walled vineyard or ‘Clos’ in French. Produced from a ‘double-fermented’ red blend of 80% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, this delivers a rich and luscious wash of dark berry fruit and spice cake with depth and elegance. It’s medium-full bodied and generously textured with a juicy balanced aftertaste of black berry and mocha underpinned by attenuated tannin and framed by excellent moderating acidity. Delectable on its own, it shines with grilled red meats or osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Found only in select (50) stores, these are worth seeking out. Click on the LCBO# link then ‘FIND STORES’ to identify the one nearest you.

***** drink or cellar
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2007 

VQA St. David’s Bench $25.95 (453415) 13.0% alcohol 

Structured, elegant and from the fabled 2007 red-wine vintage, a spice-infused bouquet of rose petal and dark berry fruit abounds. Palate-bathing flavours persist throughout with cassis and black juicy Bing cherry mingling with toasty notes and espresso roast predominant. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured sporting well-integrated oak nuances and a supple tannin structure—certainly in the top 2 or 3 Cab Francs tasted from ’07.
(Vic Harradine) 


****1/2 drink now
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Gewürztraminer 2008 

VQA St. David’s Bench $19.95 (453472) 13.0% alcohol 

Sourced from a small, 1 hectare single vineyard, perfumed aromas roll from the glass—rosewater, tropical fruit and exotic spice. This showcases soft ripe fruit flavours—white peach, mango and spiced yellow plum—interwoven with a creamy smooth texture and delightful moderating citrus acidity. The palate and aftertaste deliver that slightly off-dry sweet and tang experience pairing so well with spicy Asian cuisine, also sipping well on its own. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

***1/2 drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery ‘23’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $9.95 (64790) 12.5% alcohol
Why ‘23’? Click here www.why23.com. Here’s a value-packed fruity wine all dressed up in a jazzy, hip and happening label—take it for a test drive. The tropical fruit and sexy spice aromas grab your attention, but it’s the balanced mouthful of fruity, unoaked, refreshing flavour that’ll win you over. It’s light on its feet with loads of peach and pear flavour along with a crisp, lip-smacking finish. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery ‘Straight Up Red’ 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (219089) 12.5% alcohol
Ripe cherry and dark berry fruit aromas introduce this tangy, crowd-pleaser; it’s very smooth and super gulp-able. The label says to keep it simple and easy, so here goes—it’s well priced, well balanced pairing up with most grilled meat and veggie creations; buy a couple. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery ‘Straight Up White’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (219097) 12.0% alcohol
The tongue-in-cheek label preaches simplicity. I’m a convert… tastes great, buy some. For those who need more; attractive aromas of exotic spice and roses abound. It’s well balanced, satin smooth and full flavoured—ripe pineapple and juicy pear. It’s light on its feet and refreshing as a politician keeping a pre-election promise. Pour with lighter-styled conversation or appetizers—seafood, chicken, veal or pork. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Sullyzwicker Red’ 2010 

VQA Ontario $14.95 (114686) 12.5% alcohol
Bistro-styled, nicely balanced and versatile at the table, pour lightly chilled with a mixed deli platter, pizza or burgers. Tangy red cherry, red and black field berry fruit and savoury notes persist on the palate and refreshing finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and you won’t go wrong putting a couple of bottles in the cart. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Rosehall Run Vineyards ‘Sullyzwicker White’ 2010 

VQA Prince Edward County $14.95 (111914) 11.4% alcohol
Co-owner/winemaker, Dan Sullivan, made this from 100% County fruit and in his own image—easy going, well balanced, ready for good times. The involved nose of peach, apple, spice and mineral presages a crisp refreshing river of flavour with zesty lemon and racy white grapefruit predominant. It finishes in a blaze of tang adorned by white peach. Lovely sipped on its own, it pairs well with pasta in cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sandbanks Estate Winery ‘Reserve Baco’ Baco Noir 2009
VQA Ontario $24.95 (225920) 13.0% alcohol
Sandbanks has a way with Baco and no exception here—you really must try one. Spice, gamey, wood smoke and tarry aromas billow from this medium-full bodied, well textured red. There’s a mélange of flavour with dark, ripe berry fruit, spice-infused black plum and sweet juicy, black cherry among them. It finishes fruit-laden adorned by savoury, leafy notes and a solid tannin underpinning. Decant/aerate two hours pouring alongside smoked grilled back ribs coated in spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Sandbanks Estate Winery Rosé 2010
VQA Ontario $12.95 (224616)12.0% alcohol
Pale-salmon hued, this is a nicely fashioned, fruity Rosé produced from Vidal and Geisenheim with a touch of Cabernet Franc. Light-medium bodied, it offers delectable floral and red field berry aromas and flavours with a hint of sweet citrus carrying through the refreshing aftertaste. It’s an easy-going summer sipper. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road Vineyard’ Riesling 2010
VQA Vinemount Ridge $21.95 (198853) 10.0% alcohol
Now certified organic and bio-dynamic, this is a Riesling-lover’s delight that’s perfumed with soft citrus, mineral and spice-driven aromas. Dry as a bone on entry with a riveting wash of racy lime, minerality and grapefruit tang, it broadens out on the palate and lip-smacking finish with ripe pineapple and lime cordial. It’s an expression of pure Riesling, unadorned and delicious. The finish is balanced and focused with subtle hints of off-dry characters. Sip on its own for a hedonistic experience. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

***1/2 drink now
Rosehall Run ‘Cuvée County’ Pinot Gris 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $21.95 12.5% alcohol
This opens with a light-pink hue and glorious aromas of honeysuckle, spice and quince jelly. Tangy lemon and pit fruit—nectarine, apricot and peach—delicately bathe the palate. It’s light on its feet sporting a lively, mid-length finish laced with citrus peel. Sip on its own served lightly chilled. Order mixed wines in 3, 6, 9 or 12 bottle cases direct from Rosehall Run. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Rosehall Run ‘Cuvée County’ Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $21.95 12.5% alcohol
Transparent ruby, this well crafted and balanced single-vineyard Pinot showcases classic cool-climate Pinot Noir style. Enticing aromas of red cherry, red berry fruit, spice and a hint of cedar abound. Dry and medium bodied, there’s lovely focused ripe cherry and cranberry on the palate interlaced with spice and a dash of white pepper. Crisp acidity, minerality and fine tannins round out the package. The lingering finish is fruit-laden with attractive notes of toast from French oak aging. Pair with simple grilled salmon or cellar medium term. Order mixed wines in 3, 6, 9 or 12 bottle cases direct from Rosehall Run. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Sandbanks Estate Winery ‘Shoreline – White’ 2010
VQA Ontario $14.95 12.0% alcohol
This blend of Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewürztraminer delivers subtle aromas of stone fruit, peach in particular, and a hint of citrus. Fruity and light-medium bodied, there’s replay of the stone fruit and a taste of lemon pie. Easy drinking, it’s nicely balanced with a slight pithiness on the finish. A great summer sipper. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Sandbanks. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2009
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $32.95 13.0% alcohol
Look for subdued whiffs of sweet vanilla, floral, spice and red berry fruit on the nose. It sports silky smooth texture, firm tannin and lively acidity. The palate’s treated to well-integrated flavours of toasty oak, spice box, ripe black cherry, dark plum and mixed berry fruit. There’s a peppery flair on the warm, flavour-filled tangy finish. Beautifully balanced, this is a well-structured, well-made red. Serve now with robust meat dishes or pull the cork 2014. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 13.5% alcohol
Citrus, slate and minerality dominate the fragrant aromas providing segue to a refreshingly crisp wash of flavour with lip-smacking lemon citrus, crisp green apple and spice-infused yellow plum to the fore. It’s light-medium bodied, tangy, flavourful and brimming with deft balance and versatility at the table—pour with grilled or pan-seared fish, steamed mussels or lemon chicken. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse Winery ‘Meritage’ 2008 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $57.95 13.0% alcohol
A stellar wine from a challenging vintage; hats off to newly minted Ontario Winemaker of the Year - Paul Pender, he’s right at the top of his game. Toasty oak, ripe berry fruit and mulling spice on the nose, there’s a balanced wash of cassis and spice-infused cherry on the palate. It’s full-bodied and fully flavoured with a creamy smooth mouth feel and a lengthy aftertaste of dark berry fruit underpinned by perceptible tannin. Decant/aerate for three or four hours or tuck away until 2013. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Tawse Winery Riesling 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 10.3% alcohol
Produced from hand-harvested fruit, the lovely aromas of mineral, citrus and peach burst from the glass. Showing a slight spritz and medium bodied, it’s clean and tangy, tantalizing the palate with lemon-lime, grapefruit, tart Lobo apple flavours and characteristic underlying minerality. The finish is lengthy with a hint of residual sweetness. Enjoy on its own or with lightly grilled arctic char and brown-butter spinach. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan