Winecurrent

July 23, 2011 Vintages Release

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include: 

  • Value-packed – All 4 stars and great value - Laura Hartwig ‘Reserva’ Carmenére - $11.95, Spinyback Sauvignon Blanc - $14.95, Quinta Da Pedra Tawny Port - $14.95, Sampietrana Primitivo - $14.95, Vinea Garganega - $12.95 Éric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Villages - $13.95, Baron de Ley Rosé - $13.95, Loron Chardonnay - $12.95
  • 2 glasses! – Susan reviews a 4½ star $17.95 Côtes de Bourg red blend she and Vic both loved; it’s under France: Red Wine in the Main Release.
  • Finding Waldo – A great value 4½ star $17.95 Shiraz from Clare Valley.
  • A six-pack of crisp, refreshing whites – the Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio, Vinea Garganega and Bongiovanni Arneis in the Italian Feature and Ataraxia Chardonnay from South Africa in the Cool Climate Chardonnay Feature, Loimer Grüner Veltliner from Austria and Domaine Rieflé Pinot Gris from Alsace.
This winecurrent newsletter begins with 18 wines reviewed in the Amazing Grapes - Italian Feature then 6 wines in the Cool Climate Chardonnay Feature followed by 44 wines reviewed in the order of the Main Release in the Vintages Release catalogue, then 14 wines reviewed in sections following the main release. In total – 82 wines reviewed.

Amazing Grapes - Italian Feature

****1/2 drink now
Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio 2010
DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige $17.95 (954024) 13.5% alcohol
This is quite special, unlike and superior to any you may have tasted; even the aromas set this apart—leesy, nutty with loads of peach and pear. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lovely stream of green apple, ripe pear and honeyed pit fruit. There’s good moderating acidity throughout including the mouth-watering aftertaste. An aperitif to get the gastric juices flowing, it also pours well with pasta in cream sauce with clams, or pan-seared calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Vinea Garganega 2009
IGT Veronese $12.95 (230656) 13.0% alcohol
And now for something completely different; although Italy’s 6th most planted grape, we see few here as a single varietal even though it’s Soave’s major grape… pity. Asian spice, floral notes and citrus aromas pour from this value-packed gem. It’s mid weight with generous mouth feel sporting a gusher of balanced flavour with apricot, peach and pear mingling with good moderating citrus acidity. It finishes long and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Bongiovanni Arneis 2009
DOC Langhe $16.95 (216465) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s an outside-the-box, single varietal, Arneis. Historically used to blend and soften the region’s red wine grape, Nebbiolo, this really struts its stuff flying solo. Involved aromas and flavours abound—exotic spice, tangy citrus, green apple and pear. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lengthy sexy finish of Asian spice, floral notes and ruby red grapefruit tang. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Terredora ‘Loggia della Serra’ Greco di Tufo 2009
DOCG Greco di Tufo $17.95 (983197) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas—floral, stone and tropical fruit—rush from the glass and replay on the palate of this sensually smooth, medium-bodied wine. Dry and lush, the wine finishes with a full-flavoured flourish leaving lingering citrus and mineral notes. Enjoy with lightly grilled white fish. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Franco Molino Barolo 2006
DOCG Barolo $29.95 (212464) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a Nebbiolo that’s a value-laden, cellar dweller rewarding three to five years patience; it’s full of flavour and promise along with the solid tannin underpinning. Lilac and spice on the perfumed nose, the palate’s treated to a balanced wash of red cherry, cranberry and juicy black currant. It’s medium-full bodied with a satin-smooth mouth feel and a dry, lengthy aftertaste framed by good moderating acidity and perceptible tannin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Tedeschi ‘Capitel San Rocco’ Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2008
DOC Ripasso della Valpolicella $18.95 (719294) 14.0% alcohol
A wonderful taste experience awaits with this Wine of the Month, it’s a dry medium-bodied blend with enticing aromas of red fruit, spice, herbs and earth. Crisp, fresh texture and fine tannin frame ripe, sweet, red fruit—cherry, raspberry and cranberry to the fore. The attractive earthy, spicy notes replay on the long refreshing finish. This is a wine that can be enjoyed on its own or with tomato-based pasta dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

**** cellar
Novaia Corte Vaona Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $39.95 (234898) 15.0% alcohol
This is well priced with good structure, tangy acidity and boatloads of fruit flavour. Toasty and earthy with berry fruit on the nose it coats the palate with a persistent wash of red berry fruit—cherry and currant interlaced with sweet ripe mulberry and plum compote. The fruit’s balanced with good moderating acidity and a solid tannin underpinning. It finishes lengthy with charm and finesse. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Mantellassi ‘San Giuseppe’ Morellino di Scansano 2008
DOCG Morellino di Scansano $15.95 (226852) 13.5% alcohol
Herbs and spice interweave with red berry fruit on the nose while the palate’s treated to a riveting rivulet of savoury-infused red currant and sour cherry. This is light-medium bodied and lean and dry on the finish; looking for spaghetti Bolognaise. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Rocca delle Macìe Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006
DOCG Montepulciano $24.95 (232488) 14.0% alcohol
Earthy herbal aromas mingle with red berry fruit in this pale garnet-hued beauty. It’s dry, medium-full bodied and nicely structured with perceptible tannin and lively acidity. This is a wine with presence and intensity of flavour—raspberry jam, cranberry, red cherry and spice. The lengthy finish is dry and fruity. Enjoy with grilled meat or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
La Castellina Chianti Classico 2007
DOC Chianti Classico $18.95 (223313) 13.5% alcohol
Subtle aromas of red fruit and spice tantalize, presaging a tangy medium-bodied red with earthy, spicy nuances and vibrant red fruit flavours—raspberry and cranberry predominant. The lengthy fruity finish offers a whiff of light toast. Delightful! (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Vignamaggio ‘Gherardino’ Chianti Classico 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $23.95 (963512) 13.5% alcohol
Leather, tobacco and red berry fruit waft from this juicy well-constructed, nicely balanced red. Tangy, racy with a lovely spine of moderating acidy, the lively flavours of cranberry, red currant and cherry wash in endless waves over the palate and through the mid-length dry finish. Good supple tannin provides underpinning and interest. Pours well with veal marsala or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 2005
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $46.95 (190108) 13.5% alcohol
Balanced and beautiful, this opens with subdued aromas of spice, red berry fruit, rosemary, floral notes and hints of leather. There’s a charming, near elegant, wash of black currant, blood plum and fresh racy red cherry interlaced with black licorice and herbs. It’s mid weight, quite generously textured and finishes balanced and dry. Drink now to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Feudi di San Marzano ‘Sud’ Primitivo di Manduria 2008
DOC Primitivo di Manduria $17.95 (230532) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted perfumed aromas of mocha, dark toast and berry fruit abound on the nose of this richly flavoured, well-paced Primitivo. Rich, luscious flavours wash over the palate with bramble berry and ripe mulberry to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely textured with a long balanced aftertaste. A slab of grilled smoked back ribs slathered in spicy BBQ sauce pairs well. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Sampietrana ‘Tacco Barocco’ Primitivo 2008
IGT Salento $14.95 (214692) 13.5% alcohol
Rustic and ready to go, this is flavour packed and value laden; pick up a few. Aromas of kitchen spice, cured tobacco leaf and cherry provide segue to tangy juicy waves of nicely balanced flavour with blueberry, boysenberry and black plum to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering aftertaste. Pour alongside meat-laden pizza, gourmet burgers or grilled specialty sausage. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Cantina Tollo ‘Aldiano’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2007
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $16.95 (51706) 14.0% alcohol
Inky purple, full bodied and loaded with aromas and flavours of ripe dark fruit, spice box and vanilla, this is a well-crafted approachable wine. Soft tannin and acidity provide sufficient structure to balance the focused fruit and the finish delights with notes of pepper, licorice and spice-infused chocolate. Enjoy with meaty tomato-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Vesevo ‘Beneventano’ Aglianico 2008
IGT Beneventano $14.95 (120907) 13.5% alcohol
This is a plush and fruit-forward with rich aromas and flavours of dark fruit—blueberry pie and black plum come to mind. Dry and medium-full bodied, the soft tannin and fresh acidity provide good balance. Crowd pleasing and easy drinking, it finishes as it started, fruity and rich. Enjoy crowded around the BBQ. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Cantina di Venosa ‘Terre di Orazio’ 2007
DOC Aglianico del Vulture $17.95 (247494) 13.5% alcohol
This is opaque, ruby hued, dense and flavourful with intense aromatic—notes of dark berries, vanilla and a whiff of fennel; what’s not to like? Dry and full bodied, it’s from the noble varietal Aglianico offering attractive notes of herbs, spice and toast drifting over rich flavours of blueberry and blackberry. A peppery note lingers on the fruity finish. This a tasty value calling for grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Feudo Disisa Nero d’Avola 2008
IGT Sicilia $14.95 (238899) 13.8% alcohol
Subtle aromas of kitchen spice, earthiness, toast and dark field berry fruit provide segue to a nicely balanced, medium-full bodied river of flavour coating the plate with blueberry, red and black currant and red cherry predominant. This is deftly balanced with a dry, mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)

Cool Climate Chardonnay Feature

**** drink or cellar
Coyote’s Run ‘Black Paw Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula, Canada $21.95 (49775) 12.5% alcohol
Subdued aromas of mineral, apple and pear waft easily from this beautifully balanced, charming Chardonnay. The aromas replay on the palate along with a good spine of citrus acidity and whiffs of toasty oak. It’s mid weight, generously textured finishing lengthy and lip-smacking good. Pour alongside roast pork or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series Three Vineyards’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Canada $17.95 (105379) 13.5% alcohol
This small-lots blend is bursting with aromas of toasted hazelnut, vanilla, orchard and tropical fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, it offers a smooth rounded texture, sufficient citrus acidity to balance the rich fruit and notes of cinnamon toast from subtle oak aging. The finish is long, creamy and flavour packed. Enjoy it now with nut-crusted halibut or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 cellar
Josef Chromy Chardonnay 2009
Tasmania, Australia $29.95 (162982) 14.0% alcohol
Toasty, smoky, nutty aromas introduce this tangy, light-on-its-feet drop from down-under Tassie. There’s excellent balance between the lemon and grapefruit acidity and ripe apple and pear flavour. Needs time for the oak to fully integrate—will reward careful cellaring—drink 2013 to 2016. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ataraxia Chardonnay 2009
WO Western Cape, South Africa $23.95 (232967) 13.4% alcohol
Yellow-green in hue and beautifully fragrant with warm pastry notes, stone fruit and spice, this is a wine that proffers tangy acidity, complexity on the palate and a lovely silky texture. Orchard and stone fruit are layered with hints of minerality, vanilla and pithy citrus that linger on the lengthy finish. Enjoy now or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jean Féry & Fils ‘Les Nosroyes’ Puligny-Montrachet 2008
AOC Puligny-Montrachet, France $52.95 (243568) 13.0% alcohol
Toasty oak and vanilla on the nose this elegant, charming Chardonnay offers complexity, balance and ageworthiness—for my money, easily the top offering in the flight. Delicious flavours of fruit and acidity abound—crisp green apple, Mirabelle plum and lemon pie filling. This is mid weight, nicely textured sporting a lengthy aftertaste of lip-smacking cirtus and crisp pear mingling with hints of toasty oak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Jermann Chardonnay 2009
IGT Friuli, Italy $29.95 (583245) 13.0% alcohol
Well balanced and elegant, it displays subtle aromas of orchard and stone fruit, mineral and citrus. This brilliant golden-green gem is dry, medium bodied and fresh and fruity with a tantalizing hint of toasted nuts on the finish. Enjoy with lighter chicken or meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

**** drink now
Quinta Da Pedra ‘Alta Fine Tawny’ Port
DOC Douro $14.95 (225144) 20.0% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. Spice and orange zest on the nose the palate’s coated with sweet viscous flavours of caramel toffee, raisin and fig. It’s deftly balanced with good moderating acidity sporting a well-textured mouth feel and a lingering aftertaste layering on nuances of crème caramel and spice cake. Pour with aged hard cheese, consommé or foie gras. (Vic Harradine)

Fortified Wine: Sherry

**** drink now
Sandeman ‘Don Fino Superior Fino’ Sherry
DO Jerez $17.95 (223842) 15.0% alcohol
Sadly, for most wine-lovers, Sherry is an anachronism best left in the past with memories of sweet sticky stuff often misnamed as Sherry. This, however, is austere, dry and refreshing. Piercing aromas of minerality, leesy notes and saline attack the olfactory system while the bone-dry crisp, refreshing flavours run from hints of almonds to nuances of melon. While Fino sherry drinks well as an aperitif, it really struts its stuff with food—tangy olives, smoked mussels or salt cod pair well. Serve chilled. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

**** drink or cellar
Canard-Duchêne ‘Brut Rosé’ Champagne
AOC Champagne $52.95 (222620) 12.0% alcohol
Sharply defined aromas of strawberry, leesy notes and citrus dominate the nose before a profusion of fine-bead mousse attacks the palate with tangy refreshing red berry fruit along with nuances of cherry riding a bed of balanced acidity and well-textured mouth feel. It then provides a lengthy aftertaste with high notes of pink grapefruit and red currant driving the mouth-watering experience. This is nicely structured and well priced. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

***1/2 drink now
Reginato ‘CJR’ Blanc de Blancs 2008
Mendoza $15.95 (238584) 12.6% alcohol
This is golden hued offering a nice balance of bright orchard fruit, citrus and crisp acidity. It’s a charming dry, light-medium bodied sparkler. A blend of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, there’s a hint of lees on the nose, with fresh orchard fruit and a dash of lime dominating the palate. The crisp texture and bright bubbles carry through the finish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Mausberg Blanc de Blancs Brut Crémant d’Alsace 

AOC Alsace $17.95 (171785) 10.5% alcohol 

This provides good value, loads of flavour and serious fine-bead bubbles; what’s not to like? It opens with a tantalizing nose of orange blossom, honeyed orange and citrus aromas followed by a lovely mousse attack on the palate with oodles of racy zesty flavour—lemongrass, red currant and citrus galore. It’s light on its feet with a refreshing mouth-watering finish. It’s the perfect aperitif with which to welcome guests. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Featherstone Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2010 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (89011) 13.5% alcohol 

The lifted aromas are full of verve and excitement—lemon chiffon pie and dazzling tropical fruit notes. There’s good tension between the ripe fruit—citrus and tropical—and tangy acidity. It sports a gorgeous mouth feel and brims with flavour layering on nervy lemon-lime and a delightful wave of grapefruit on the crisp, lip-smacking finish. The perfect summer sipper and more—it pairs well with pan-seared fish, prawns and scallops. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink now
Ridgepoint Cabernet Franc 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $17.95 (245639) 12.5% alcohol
This is a great example a varietal that does very well in Niagara. Semi-transparent ruby, this dry, medium-bodied red offers alluring and complex aromas—berry, sweet spice, vanilla and an earthy herbal note. Savour the ripe red fruit—raspberry and cranberry—garnished with sweet spice and a hint of toast. The texture is quite silky, the underlying structure subtle, providing a deftly balanced wine with a long fruity finish. A great choice for herbed grilled pork or other simple barbequed fare. (Susan Desjardins)

British Columbia: Red Wine

**** drink now
Nk’Mip ‘Qwam Qwmt’ Syrah 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $31.95 (230094) 14.0% alcohol
This is a premium red from Canada’s first aboriginal winery. Nk’Mip is one of the largest vineyard owners and grape growers in the Okanagan; the Osoyoos band has access to a wide range of grape varieties from different microclimates including the south Okanagan. Fragrant aromas leap from the glass—berry fruits, spiced cedar and pepper to the fore. Dry and medium-full bodied, it displays lovely balance and a round texture with perceptible tannin and fine acidity balancing the tasty fruit. Nuances of pepper and toast persist on the lengthy finish. Enjoy with steaks balsamico. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Quail’s Gate Merlot 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (169961) 14.5% alcohol
Smooth and silky, the intense aromas and flavours are dark berries, pit fruit, subtle herbs and spice with an elusive smoky character. Fine-grained tannin and fresh acidity frame the rich ripe fruit. There’s some warmth and a hint of vanilla on the finish. Enjoy it now or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

***1/2 drink now
Fielding Estate Winery Rosé 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 12.5% alcohol
A pretty salmon pink, this is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Pinot Noir with a dash of Syrah. Light-medium bodied, the aromas of mint and strawberry rhubarb pie resonate delightfully on the palate. Juicy and savoury, it’s nicely balanced, crisp, fresh and bright, finishing with a lively peppery bite. Enjoy it with a summer salad or as an appetizing sipper. (Susan Desjardins)

British Columbia: Rosé wine

**** drink now
Mission Hill ‘Five Vineyards’ Rosé 2010
VQA Okanagan Valley $15.95 (229716) 12.5% alcohol
Pale-salmon pink, this lively rosé has delightful aromas of red berry fruit and fresh citrus. Dry, light-medium bodied, the cherry/berry and zippy citrus flavours replay with blueberry coming through on the mid palate. Tasty and bright, it offers a lasting fresh fruity finish. Enjoy with a grilled chicken and mushroom salad. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Artesa Chardonnay 2009
Carneros $19.95 (657585) 14.3% alcohol
Value and flavour packed, this offers a perfumed nose of toasty, nutty, mineral-laden aromas with hints of vanilla followed by a joyous river of balanced, lip-smacking flavour—juicy white peach, ripe pear and tropical fruit. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a balanced mouth-watering aftertaste of citrus zest interlaced with melon and apricot. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
St. Supéry Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Napa Valley $18.95 (339663) 13.7% alcohol
Cut grass, gooseberry and simply gorgeous aromas fly from the glass of this Kiwi-styled beauty. It has creamy texture and rides a solid wave of herbaceous, tangy flavour throughout—key lime, savoury-laden passion fruit and hints of asparagus. It finishes in a blaze of lip-smacking crispness. Give this a go with herbed grilled calamari rings or mussels steamed in this wine. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beringer ‘Alluvium Red’ 2007
Knights Valley, Sonoma County $39.95 (393447) 14.4% alcohol
Rich, elegant and flavour-laden, it also provides good value. Opening with an involved nose of black licorice, vanilla, mint and mocha, it bathes the palate with complex balanced waves of tangy red cherry, sweet, ripe boysenberry and juicy black currant. It’s medium-full bodied and generously textured with the structure and underpinning to go a distance—easily drinking now to 2018. The lingering, fleshy aftertaste is emblazoned with dark, juicy, spice-infused berry fruit adorned with nuances of bittersweet chocolate. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Beringer ‘Founders’ Estate’ Old Vine Zinfandel 2008
California $19.95 (567453) 13.9% alcohol
This is a straightforward red with aromas of sweet ripe fruit and spice. There’s a smooth fruity core, soft texture and a nice spicy finish. Easy to drink and crowd-pleasing, this is a go-to wine for simple barbequed meats. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Merlot 2008
Sonoma County $24.95 (962217) 13.5% alcohol
Spiced black plum, cherry and blueberry aromas provide segue to a persistent, consistent stream of tangy, refreshing flavour—mulberry, black berry and pomegranate—traveling through the lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste. It delivers good texture, medium weight and a delicious pairing for chicken cacciatore. (Vic Harradine)

****drink now
Santa Barbara Winery Pinot Noir 2009
Santa Rita Hills $20.95 (942946) 14.7% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby with a violet note, this nicely balanced wine is redolent with berries, spice and smoky toast. Dry, medium boded, the intensely concentrated dark fruit flavours, ripe tannin and fresh acidity make for a very approachable wine. Warm fruity notes linger on the finish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Starmont Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa Valley $31.95 (725150) 14.5% alcohol
Cedar, red berry fruit and charred toast aromas open this ripe fruity Cab. Mature, ripe flavours of fruit—fig, mulberry and bramble berry—wash over the palate interweaving with undertones of cassis and kitchen spice. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a solid tannin underpinning. It finishes balanced and fruit forward with wisps of toasty oak. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

Mexico: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
L.A. Cetto Petite Syrah 2008
Guadalupe Valley $11.95 (983742) 14.5% alcohol
An almost opaque purple, this is a fruit-forward gulp-able wine with a fruity, spicy red berry nose and soft, easy-going texture. Dry, medium bodied, it’s loaded with fruit—cherry and raspberry—offering a nuance of cocoa on the mid-length finish. It earns an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Lamadrid ‘Single Vineyard Reserva’ Bonarda 2008
Mendoza $16.95 (232652) 14.9% alcohol
Gamey, leather and charred toast on the nose, it springs into action on the palate with a tangy river of red currant, cherry and blood plum. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with a balanced mid-length finish underpinned by firm tannin, adorned with spice-infused black currant. Rustic and ready to drink after a two-hour aeration/decant; pour alongside grilled smoked ribs, gourmet sausage or marinated hangar steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Masi ‘Corbec Appassimento’ Corvina/Malbec 2008
La Arboleda, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza $24.95 (79095) 14.5% alcohol
Ripe-scented berry fruit and spice box aromas introduce this full-bodied rustic red blend. A complex tannin-infused rush of flavour coats the palate with bramble berry and juicy black Bing cherry to the fore. It’s well textured with a lengthy aftertaste adorned with savoury and spice highlights. Decant/aerate a couple of hours pouring with grilled smoked ribs or marinated grilled flank steak with pommes frites. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink now
Laura Hartwig ‘Reserva’ Carmenére 2008
Colchagua Valley $11.95 (213512) 14.0% alcohol
Deep carmine, this dry, medium-full bodied red is great, everyday value. Smoky, earthy, dark berry aromas waft from the glass and replay on the palate along with hints of spice and pepper. There’s good balance of rich fruit, ripe tannin and fresh acidity. It received an extra half star for value – grab a few bottles to enjoy with a casual BBQ. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Viña Tabalí ‘Reserva Especial’ Syrah 2008
DO Limare Valley, Chile $19.95 (213538)
Aromas of charry toast, gamey notes and dark berry fruit rip from the glass. It’s medium
bodied, fruit laden and silky smooth delivering a balanced wash of flavour—dark juicy cherry and spiced black plum predominant. It finishes lengthy and delicious with added adornments of licorice, black pepper and oodles of good moderating acidity. This is well balanced and charming delivering good value. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Best’s ‘Great Western Bin No. 1’ Shiraz 2008
Victoria $21.95 (222323) 14.5% alcohol
From one of Australia’s premium Shiraz producers—with two listed on the respected Langton’s Classification—seize this rare opportunity to try something a tick off their two top drops for 1/3 the price; it’s amazing value. Gliding over the palate with complexity structure and a silky-smooth mouth feel, it brims with flavour—juicy, tangy, minty red cherry, sweet licorice-infused mulberry and nuances of black pepper and espresso roast. The mid-length finish of this cool-climate gem is mouth-wateringly good. Pair with grilled lamb and good friends; toss a few in the cart. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Small Gully ‘The Formula Robert’s’ Shiraz 2006
South Australia $18.95 (142935) 15.9% alcohol
Opening with a lifted, rich nose of bramble berry, tar and spice with nuances of espresso roast, this full-bodied, fully flavoured beauty coats the palate with black raspberry, sweet mulberry and ripe juicy Bing cherry. It’s mid weight and generously textured sporting a fruity and balanced, lengthy aftertaste replaying the fruit adorned with hints of mocha and spice. Another great Wine of the Month selection offering good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Stella Bella Shiraz 2008
Margaret River, Western Australia $24.95 (48553) 14.0% alcohol
Alluring and delicate aromas of Asian spice, mocha, vanilla and dark berry fruit provide segue to a spice-infused wash of black currant and kirsch liqueur interwoven with anise and aromatic bitters. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with excellent moderating acidity throughout. It finishes lengthy with a solid tannin underpinning—aerate/decant two hours and pour with grilled beef or lamb. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wakefield Shiraz 2009
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (943787) 14.5% alcohol
Balanced and beautiful, Wakefield’s one of 12 family-owned ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’ producing wine with sense of place, and decrying industrialised Aussie bulk wines—sweet, fruity and little else. Lively aromas of red berry fruit, toast and spice presage a rollicking river of dark juicy flavour—black currant, kirsch liqueur and cassis. It’s mid-weight with good mouth feel and a balanced finish of supple tannin, moderating acidity and dark berry fruit. It’s value packed, drinking now to 2017 and was difficult to spit—pick up more than one. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Spinyback Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Nelson, South Island $14.95 (694737) 12.5% alcohol
There’s a riveting wash of gooseberry, white grapefruit and racy lemon zest throughout this light-medium bodied, crisp and refreshing SB. Value packed and brimming with racy tang, you’ll be hard pressed to beat this Kiwi zinger at this price, especially when paired with a wide choice of fish and seafood—grilled calamari rings, grilled garlic prawns, pan-seared white fish or scallop ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink now
Thatched Hut Pinot Noir 2010
Central Otago $17.95 (242933) 13.5% alcohol
Bursting with aromas of ripe red fruit and spice, there’s an attractive earthy note underlying this dry, medium-bodied Pinot Noir. Bright berry fruit and spice replay on the palate—raspberry pie and cranberry tart. There’s a fine frame of ripe tannin and lively acidity leading to a lengthy refreshing and fruity finish. An excellent value that’s good to go now or cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)

Austria: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Loimer Trocken Grüner Veltliner 2009
DAC Kamptal $18.95 (142240) 12.5% alcohol
A small step up in price and a leap forward in quality from most Grüners, this delivers on all fronts—flavour, freshness and food-friendly. Delicate aromas of pit fruit, lemongrass and minerality harbinger a torrent of tangy flavour with lemon citrus and white grapefruit mingling with softer mango and nectarine. It’s smooth as silk and light on its feet sporting a crisp, refreshing blaze of lemony tang on the aftertaste. Pour alongside freshly shucked oysters, steamed clams or pan-seared scallops over a bed of mesculan and crumbled chèvre.

France: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Rieflé ‘Côte de Rouffach’ Pinot Gris 2008
AOC Alsace $19.95 (223917) 14.0% alcohol
Pale gold, this is beautifully balanced proffering aromas of ripe stone and orchard fruit along with spicy, earthy nuances. Dry, tasty and flavourful, there’s great depth of rich ripe fruit—peaches and nectarines—a subtle underlying acidity and a lovely silky texture flowing through the lengthy finish. A wine to savour. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Willy Gisselbrecht ‘Tradition’ Gewürztraminer 2008
AOC Alsace $18.95 (928390) 13.0% alcohol
Bright and golden, this offers lush aromas of spice, tropical and stone fruit plus a whiff of freshly grated ginger. Just off-dry and medium-full bodied, the rich fruit is nicely balanced with moderating citrus acidity. Sweet fruit flavours persist on the finish. It’s a good choice paired with your favorite exotic-spiced dish. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Trotereau Quincy 2009
AOC Quincy $17.95 (225185) 13.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of nettles, gooseberry, floral notes and citrus open this Sauvignon Blanc/Sauvignon Gris from a family-owned winery in France’s Loire Valley. There’s a focused wash on the palate with quince, passion fruit and white peach interlaced with spicy, peppery notes. It’s light bodied with a mid-length, nicely balanced finish. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Château Castegens 2006

AOC Côtes de Castillon $16.95 (125856) 12.5% alcohol
Flying under the radar, this steals the show—it’s rich, luscious and brimming with charm and flavour. Leather, black plum and pencil shavings on the nose, it charms the palate with a fruit-forward wash of black currant, ripe sweet mulberry and spice-infused black juicy cherry. It’s deftly balanced with good carpentry—supple tannin and moderating acidity—finishing with a replay of fruit adorned with bittersweet chocolate and tarry notes mingling with savory herbs. Decant/aerate two hours and pour with rack of lamb or grilled strip loin. Pick up a few, first making certain I have mine. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar two glasses
Château la Grolet 2009
AOC Côtes de Bourg $17.95 (126615) 13.5% alcohol
Dry, medium-bodied, finely balanced and structured, this biodynamic wine is a winner for Vic and me. Principally Merlot, blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, it offers rich fruity aromas and nuances of herbs and earth. The fresh flavours of ripe field berries wash across the palate supported by ripe tannin and a tangy texture. The dry, fruity finish lasts and lasts. Enjoy now with full-flavoured meat dishes or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Henry Fessy ‘Moulin-â-Vent’ 2009
AOC Beaujolais $21.95 (233924) 13.5% alcohol
From one the top Cru appellations in Beaujolais, this bears little resemblance to Beaujolais Nouveau other than using Gamay grapes. Lilac, toasty, woodsy aromas spill from this well-balanced, fruit-forward red. Waves of juicy black cherry, red currant and pomegranate wash over the palate and through a lengthy finish laced with mocha and cassis. There’s an underpinning of supple tannin framed by moderating lip-smacking acidity. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Château Puech-Haut ‘Prestige’ 2009 

AOC Coteaux-Du-Languedoc $26.95 (237289) 14.5% alcohol 

Puech-Haut translates to a hill above others; this Grenache/Syrah blend also stands out. Dark roasted herbs, cola and black currant aromas interlaced with black licorice and mocha dominate the expressive nose. A measured, rich, well-balanced stream of flavour flows over the palate with tangy black currant, minty cherry and dark briary berry to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with a silky smooth texture and concentrated lengthy aftertaste of dark berry fruit and savoury herb supported by fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Vieux Château d’Astro ‘Cuvée du Commandeur’ 2009
AOC Côtes de Provence $15.95 (221952) 13.5% alcohol
A clean ruby tone, this classic blend of the Southern Rhône compels with ripe cherry/berry and sweet spice aromas. This rich ripe fruit replays on the palate with the deftly-crafted underlying structure and round texture creating a very approachable wine. Notes of spice and pepper garnish the dry fruity finish of this medium-full bodied wine. Good value and a pleasure to sip with aged hard cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Delas Frères ‘Les Reinages’ Gigondas 2007
AOC Gigondas $29.95 (222604) 15.0% alcohol
This is a terrific wine from a fabulous vintage. A proprietary blend—Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and small amounts of other Rhône varietals allowed—it offers up a sharp nose of herbs, spice and red cherry before coating the palate with a powerful gusher of rich, luscious bramble berry and spice-infused red currant. It’s medium-full bodied with generous texture and a glorious aftertaste brimming with dark berry fruit, mocha and fennel. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de la President ‘Nonciature’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $44.95 (237339) 14.0% alcohol
Perfumed, luscious and tough to spit, it opens with a soft nose of blueberry, Asian spice and floral notes. Creamy smooth waves of rich concentrated flavours persist throughout with juicy Bing cherry, ripe boysenberry and spice-infused black currant predominant. There’s excellent balance with fine-grained tannin, tangy acidity and ripe dark fruit in glorious three-part harmony. It’s mid-full weight and adorned with garrigue, espresso roast and black licorice on the lengthy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de la Vieille Ferme de l’Eoune Rasteau 2009
AOOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Rasteau $17.95 (234658) 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips in your favour—it’s fruit packed and beautifully balanced. Spicy, earthy and dark berry fruit aromas presage a balanced mouthful of generously textured flavour—mint-infused red cherry, racy red currant and boysenberry preserve—framed by moderating acidity bolstered by ripe, fine-grained tannin. The finish lingers, you shouldn’t—pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Éric Texier ‘Terroir de Vaison-la-Romaine’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $13.95 (226845) 13.0% alcohol
This is an approachable wine that’s principally Grenache. Aromas and flavours of ripe berry fruit, herbes de Provence, spice and toasty notes beguile. The texture is soft, the acidity and soft tannin balancing the appealing spicy fruit flavours. There’s a pleasant toasty note on the fruity finish. It deserves its final half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Monte Das Servas ‘Colheita Seleccionada’ Tinto 2008
Vinho Regional Alentejo $16.95 (246868) 14.5% alcohol
This is bold and boisterous bolting from the glass with lifted aromas of dark field berry fruit, raisins and mocha before exploding on the palate with beautifully textured bramble berry, kirsch liqueur and spiced black plum. It’s mid weight with a lengthy luscious aftertaste of dark berry fruit complemented by high tones of espresso roast. There’s lots of everything—acidity, fruit and tannin—including good balance and great value. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Rosé Wine

**** drink now
Baron de Ley Rosado 2010
DOCa Rioja $13.95 (117283) 13.5% alcohol
Paired perfectly with a charcuterie board, white pizza or grilled crumbled chèvre over green salad on a warm summer day, this delivers a nicely balanced mouthful of crisp refreshing Rosé. Aromas of strawberry, spice and minerality introduce a tangy wash of racy red fruit—strawberry, cranberry and plum garnished with spice. It showcases a dry, crisp, mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: August 20, 2011

**** cellar
Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road’ Gewürztraminer 2010 

VQA Vinemount Ridge $24.95 (111989) 12.5% alcohol
Rosewater, exotic spice and musky notes waft from the heavily perfumed nose of this off-dry gem. It’s certified organic and bio-dynamic with a creamy smooth, deftly balanced tang and sweet wash of palate-bathing flavours—lime sherbet and tangy grapefruit. It finishes with a drying, penetrating aftertaste of grapefruit pith, earthiness, wet stone and minerality. It sips well after a ten- or fifteen-minute aeration/decant and is a ‘natural’ with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: September 10, 2011

**** drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Cabernet Merlot 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 13.0% alcohol
Tarry, smoky, alluring, aromas waft from this predominantly Cab Franc, medium-bodied, beautifully balanced, tangy red blend. It’s value packed and brimming with fruit washing over the palate in persistent waves—red and black currant, blueberry and blood plum. There’s good mouth feel and a lingering, crisp, refreshing finish. Great sipped on its own, it’s quite food-friendly—spicy grilled ribs, pasta in tomato-based sauce, meat-laden pizza or spicy wings. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: October 1, 2011

**** drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Chardonnay 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (089037) 13.0% alcohol
This is mid weight, nicely textured and brimming with charm and flavour. Sweet vanilla, spiced tropical fruit and nutty wisps on the nose, it delivers a well-balanced, crisp and refreshing mouthful of green apple, ripe pear along with mouth-watering lemon and lime citrus. It finishes in a lengthy blaze of lip-smacking flavour with nutty, oaky nuances and pours well with roast chicken or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Estate Vineyards’ Chardonnay 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (111989) 13.0% alcohol
Heady involved aromas of spice-infused pear, apricot and toasty notes provide segue to silky smooth waves of tangy delectable nectar—key lime, pineapple and white grapefruit mingling with toasty notes. This is a medium-full bodied, value-laden gem sporting a lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. Excellent sipping now, it’ll improve in bottle over the next 12 months. It’s paired perfectly with ris de veau in Champagne sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: Fall 2011 (Vintages Go To Market – Limited Release)

**** cellar
Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road’ Chardonnay 2009 

VQA Vinemount Ridge $34.95 (111989) 13.0% alcohol
This is a flagship Chardonnay that revels in gorgeous texture and complexity. Tuck away ‘till 2013 allowing full integration of oak, fruit and acidity; it’ll be worth the wait. Spice-laden aromas of orchard fruit, minerality and toasty oak abound followed by a torrent of unbridled flavours—bracing white grapefruit citrus acidity with crisp green apple and ripe pear infused with mineral, slate and toasty oak. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages Essentials: always available in select LCBO stores

**** drink now
Oyster Bay Chardonnay 2010 

Marlborough, New Zealand $18.95 (326728) 13.5% alcohol
Tropical fruit, citrus and sweet vanilla aromas abound on this tangy, generously textured, value-packed beauty. Rivers of nicely balanced flavour pour from the bottle with lemon chiffon pie, crisp grapefruit and spiced yellow plum to the fore. It’s mid weight sporting a mid-length finish that’s crisp and refreshing. Pour alongside grilled white fish, roast chicken or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

Previously released – July 9, 2011, just received tasting samples - still available

**** drink now
Domaine Boudau ‘Le Clos’ 2009
AOC Côtes Du Roussillon $16.95 (149989) 15.0% alcohol
Charry toast, aromatic bitters and roasted herbs on the nose, this red blend—Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan—delivers a nicely balanced wash of ripe cherry and sweet mulberry supported by fine-grained tannin, moderating acidity and a smooth mouth feel. It’s medium bodied with a mid-length aftertaste replaying the flavours and layering on sweet berry fruit and a sprig of fresh herbs. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Eral Bravo Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza, Argentina $17.95 (058081) 14.5% alcohol
Opaque in the glass, reluctant aromas of herbs and kitchen spice segue a chewy mouthful of minty dark cherry, fennel and dried currant underpinned by grippy tannin. It’s medium-full bodied nicely textured with a lengthy aftertaste of cherry and black currant mingling with leafy notes. Decant/aerate two hours and serve alongside spaghetti Bolognaise. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
La Cadiérenne ‘Cuvée Grande Tradition’ Bandol Rosé 2010
AOC Bandol, France $17.95 (119453) 14.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of red cherry and spiced red field berry waft from this bone-dry delectable Rosé—a blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault. It’s medium bodied and bristling with tangy red fruit flavour—racy red currant, cranberry and cherry with nuances of mineral and spicy notes. It finishes crisp and refreshing seeking a charcuterie platter, white pizza or crumbled grilled chèvre over arugula salad. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

***1/2 drink now
Loron ‘Beau!’ Beaujolais 2009
AOC Beaujolais, France $11.95 (231811) 12.5% alcohol
Dark briary berry, grapey and spicy on the nose, it’s exactly what you’d hope for in the glass—fruity, tangy and lip-smacking good. Look for candied cherry and racy red currant on a light-bodied frame with good overall balance. Chill slightly and serve with a charcuterie board, roast chicken, roast pork or chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Loron Bourgogne Chardonnay 2009
AOP Bourgogne Blanc, France $12.95 (167155) 13.0% alcohol
This value-packed Burgundy beauty brims with aromas and flavours of crisp green apple and ripe pear—it’s versatile with food and delicious. It’s friendly and fruit-forward bathing the palate with good balance and a textured mouth feel. It finishes crisp and refreshing with lip-smacking ripe citrus interlaced with vanilla and slate. This unoaked gem pours well with roast chicken, lemon veal or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink or cellar
Sandeman Late Bottled Vintage Port 2006 

DOC Porto $16.95 (195974) 20.5% alcohol
Charred toast, savory herbs and spice cake aromas provide segue for a palate-coating, tannin-infused wash on the palate—savory cherry, leafy nuances and lashings of sweet berry fruit interlaced with mint. Just bottled in 2010, this will benefit from two additional years in cellar allowing components to knit together and the tannin to resolve—should come around nicely. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Trumpour’s Mill ‘Paint The Town Red’ 2008
VQA Prince Edward County $14.95 (615062) 12.5% alcohol
Tangy, crisp and refreshing, this delivers a boatload of juicy tangy fruit with spiced racy red currant, red cherry and ripe blueberry galore. It’s light on its feet with good mouth feel and quite versatile, pairing with meat-laden pizza, burgers, spicy wings and pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink now
The Grange of Prince Edward County ‘Late Harvest’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $24.95 500mL 9.7% alcohol
Barrel fermented and aged in neutral oak, this dazzles the palate. Marmalade, spiced and honeyed orchard fruit on the nose, it coats the palate with gorgeous sweet nectar—honeyed peach, lemon chiffon pie and ripe pineapple with nuances of mango. It’s creamy smooth with a lovely balanced aftertaste. Savour on its own or pour with crème brulée, lemon cheese cake or lemon tart. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from The Grange. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Cabernet Merlot 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 13.0% alcohol
Tarry, smoky, alluring aromas waft from this predominantly Cab Franc, medium-bodied, beautifully balanced, tangy red blend. Value-packed and brimming with fruit—red and black currant, blueberry and blood plum—washing in persistent waves. There’s good mouth feel and a lingering, crisp, refreshing finish. Great sipped on its own, it’s food-friendly—spicy grilled ribs, pasta in tomato-based sauce, meat-laden pizza or spicy wings. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Chardonnay 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (089037) 13.0% alcohol
This is mid weight, nicely textured and brimming with charm and flavour. Sweet vanilla, spiced tropical fruit and nutty wisps on the nose, it delivers a well-balanced, crisp and refreshing mouthful of green apple, ripe pear and lemon and lime mouth-watering citrus. It finishes in a lengthy blaze of lip-smacking flavour with nutty, oaky nuances. It’s poured well with roast chicken or slow-roasted pork. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Estate Vineyards’ Chardonnay 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (111989) 13.0% alcohol
Heady involved aromas of spice-infused pear, apricot and toasty notes provide segue to silky smooth waves of tangy delectable nectar—key lime, pineapple and white grapefruit mingling with toasty notes. This is a medium-full bodied, value-laden gem sporting a lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. Excellent sipping now, it’ll improve in bottle over the next 12 months. Paired perfectly with ris de veau in Champagne sauce. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road’ Chardonnay 2009 

VQA Vinemount Ridge $34.95 (111989) 13.0% alcohol
This is flagship Chardonnay reveling in gorgeous texture and complexity. Tuck away ‘till 2013 allowing full integration of oak, fruit and acidity; it’ll be more than worth the wait. Spice-laden aromas of orchard fruit, minerality and toasty oak abound followed by a torrent of unbridled flavours—bracing white grapefruit citrus acidity with green apple and pear infused with mineral, slate and toasty oak. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road’ Gewürztraminer 2010 

VQA Vinemount Ridge $24.95 (111989) 12.5% alcohol
Rosewater, exotic spice and musky notes waft from the heavily perfumed nose of this off-dry gem. It’s certified organic and bio-dynamic with a creamy smooth and deftly balanced tang and sweet wash of palate-bathing flavours of lime sherbet and tangy grapefruit. It finishes with a drying, penetrating aftertaste of grapefruit pith, earthiness, wet stone and minerality. It sips well after a ten- or fifteen-minute aeration/decant and is a ‘natural’ with spicy Asian cuisine. Order by the case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan