Winecurrent

June 25, 2011 Vintages Release

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include: 


  • New in Ontario Wineries – You won’t find these limited-production gems in LCBO stores, but you will in this section, following the Main Release—it’s brimming with fine VQA wine they’ll ship to your home or office. A nice touch for Canada Day, eh. Never tried it? Pair with a friend(s) and share a case, or two.
  • 2 Glasses – Susan reviews two red blends from France both she and Vic loved; one earned 5 stars, both offer terrific value.
  • Finding Waldo – it’s a Tempranillo NOT from Spain, earning 4½ stars, under $20.
  • Susan’s Selection - Wynns Coonawarra ‘Estate’ Shiraz 2008 is 4½ stars, $19.95 and found under Australia: Red Wine – it’s excellent value, high toned, balanced and beautiful.
  • Consignment Wine – it’s an entire new channel for buying the wines you drink in restaurants and your friends bring back from Europe, seldom appearing on the shelves of LCBO retail stores—they’re readily available to you via a computer keyboard, delivered directly to your home or office. Four of them are reviewed in the last section of winecurrent. Dip your toe in the water—most restaurants have both feet in. The Vinho Verde reviewed in this newsletter is a screaming buy. If you missed the skinny on consignment wine when winecurrent published it previously, you need to read it now…
This winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature from the Vintages Release catalogue on wines of ‘Pure Elegance’, a.k.a. expressing characteristics of the grape variety, followed by wines in the order of the Main Release.

Feature: Pure Elegance

**** drink now
Salterio Albariño 2010
DO Rias Baixas $17.95 (002774) 13.0% alcohol
High-toned aromas rush from the glass—sweet floral, musk melon, stone fruit and an underlying hint of minerality. Consistent on the palate, there’s a hint of spritz, vivid acidity and a replay of the fruit and mineral notes right through the zesty finish. Serve it well chilled with seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Cave de Ribeauvillé ‘Terroirs Réserve’ Pinot Gris 2007
AOC Alsace $19.95 (211581) 13.0% alcohol
Golden-hued with honey, stone fruit and exotic flowers on the nose, this is an absolutely delightful wine that’s on my shopping list. Satiny in texture, almost oily, it’s off dry with rich honeyed fruit that’s finely balanced with lively acidity. It finishes crisp and refreshing with a tangy peppery note. Enjoy with pork and apricot sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Berton Vineyards ‘The White’ Viognier 2010
South Eastern Australia $14.95 (93435) 14.0% alcohol
This is gold-coloured with a pure expression of stone and tropical fruit and subtle floral aromas. Lovely, fresh and creamy in texture, it’s dry, medium-full bodied and well balanced. The fabulous fruit replays on the palate—notes of lime, mango and luscious stone fruit carrying through the lengthy finish. Try it with grilled and chicken Caesar salad. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2010
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (43281) 10.5% alcohol
Brilliant straw with vivid aromas of sweet citrus, orchard fruit, floral and mineral notes, this light-medium-bodied, off-dry Riesling is fresh tasting with a fine seam of acidity underlying scrumptious fruit flavours. It’s an appetizing wine that’s a good match with summer fare like strawberry-spinach salad. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling Kabinett 2008
Pradikätswein Bernkasteler Badstube, Mosel $18.95 (214635) 8.5% alcohol
Sustainable agriculture, eco-friendly winemaking practices and a winery with prized terroir coalesce in this racy off-dry Riesling. There’s a lively nose of minerality, apple and pear providing segue to a laser-like focused stream of honeyed pit fruit and tangy orange and lemon zest. It finishes in a blaze of sweet and tang. A refreshing welcoming wine or aperitif, it also pours well with spicy Asian dishes or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Pfaffenheim Cuvée ‘Bacchus’ Gewürztraminer 2009
AOC Alsace $19.95 (996017) 13.5% alcohol
This is richly perfumed and chockfull of flavour with a lengthy sweet and tang finish; it’s a natural for pouring with spicy Asian cuisine. Expressive aromas of rosewater, exotic spice and citrus bolt from the glass of this medium-bodied, nicely textured, off-dry gem. There’s a boatload of flavour throughout with Turkish delight, spice-infused lychee and tropical fruit interwoven with a generous dollop of racy citrus. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Sileni ‘Cellar Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough, South Island $15.95 (662882) 13.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas rip from the glass with grassy, herbal, spice and lemongrass predominant. Mid weight and nicely textured, this showers the palate with a ribbon of mouth-watering flavour—lemon pie filling, key lime and gooseberry. The balanced, tangy aftertaste is lengthy, crisp and refreshing. There’s excellent value here and it’s well worth stocking up. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fruit Wine

**** drink now
Cidrerie St-Nicholas ‘Pom d’Or Tradition’ Crackling Cider
Québec $12.95 (179473) 7.0% alcohol
This hits the LCBO shelves just a day after St-Jean Baptiste Day… no problem, buy a bottle or two to celebrate July 1. It’s a light and dry, refreshing, frothy apple-flavoured confection that sings, ‘Oh Canada’. Full of flavour and something different, it earned its final half star on good value. Try it with appetizers of grated apple and melted cheddar on toasted baguette. (Susan Desjardins)

Champagne

****1/2 drink now
La Maison Pierrel  ‘Les Oressences’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne Non-Vintage 

AOC Champagne $42.95 (167502) 12.0% alcohol 

The 100% Chardonnay shines here with silky texture, well-sculpted structure and complexity. Mineral, apple and fresh-baked bread aromas segue a beautifully textured wash of flavour with Granny Smith apple, quince jelly and spice-infused lemon pie to the fore. The lovely and lingering zesty finish cleans up crisp and more-ish. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jackson Triggs ‘Entourage Silver Series’ Brut Méthode Classique 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 (234161) 12.0% alcohol
A yellow-golden hue and alluring nose of citrus, floral and Bavarian apple tart presage a profusion of bubbles, dazzling flavours and crisp refreshing aftertaste. Fresh lively flavours of lime sherbet, crisp green apple and white peach infuse the brisk fine-bead mousse and persist on the racy, refreshing finish. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel bubbling over with value. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Closson Chase ‘K.J. Watson Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara River $39.95 (230912) 13.1% alcohol
There’s a lively nose of spice herbs and toasty oak setting up a glorious gusher of toffee apple, vanilla and wisps of sweet oak on the palate and lingering aftertaste. It’s mid weight with a generous texture and a tangy lip-smacking finish. Give it a go with slow-roasted pork or roast turkey with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Huff Estates Chardonnay 2008
VQA Ontario $16.95 (129742) 12.8% alcohol
This delivers a tasty fruit-forward Chardonnay adorned with toasty oak with the price-quality ratio well in your favour. Toasty, charry aromas mingle with orchard fruit providing segue to a wash of palate-bathing flavour—crisp green apple, ripe Bosc pear and white peach. It’s medium bodied, well balanced and textured, adding dollops of citrus and apple with wisps of toasty oak on the refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2009 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (64618) 12.3% alcohol 

Dark berry fruit, graphite and mixed savory spice on the nose, the racy flavour rides a stream of crisp refreshing acidity. Red currant, sour cherry and hints of pomegranate wash over the palate replaying on the mouth-watering finish. This is truly showcased when poured with meat-laden spicy pizza or spaghetti Bolognaise. (Vic Harradine)

British Columbia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (585760) 14.0% alcohol
Dry and medium bodied, this is a vibrant pinot with a nose of earthy, smoky red fruit and a softly textured palette of flavours—cherry, raspberry, spice and pepper. All’s in balance—soft tannin, fresh acidity and bright fruit—with a hint of warmth caressing the finish. A fine wine that’s well matched with grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

***1/2 drink now
Trumpour’s Mill Rosé 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $14.95 (55046) 11.5% alcohol
Produced from Gamay and Pinot Noir, this candy-apple pink Rosé showcases aromas of strawberry, cherry and cranberry. Tangy strawberry-rhubarb pie and Montmorency cherry flavours overlay fresh minerality and bracing acidity. Dry and light-medium bodied, it works well with thinly sliced grilled chicken over mesculan salad. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Château St. Jean Fumé Blanc 2009
Sonoma County $21.95 (537639) 13.6% alcohol
Herbal with spice-driven peach and pear aromas on the nose, it delivers a huge wave of tangy juicy flavour on the palate with lemon-lime, crisp green apple and toasty notes galore. It’s light-medium bodied with good mouth feel cleaning up crisp, racy and refreshing. Pairs well with pan-seared scallops or grilled prawns with lemon and garlic. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
De Loach ‘OFS’ Chardonnay 2008
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $37.95 (729343) 14.5% alcohol
Balanced, bold and beautiful, this crowd-pleaser offers charm, good carpentry and full value. Aromas of sweet vanilla, toasty oak and a mélange of tropical fruit herald a river of rich, luscious flavour with ripe pear, yellow peach and more tropical fruit interlaced with lashings of racy citrus. It’s well balanced, medium-full bodied with satin smooth texture throughout. It finishes lengthy and luxurious with good ripe fruit and balancing acidity. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sterling Vineyards Chardonnay 2007
Napa Valley $21.95 (330233) 14.2% alcohol
Here’s a top-drawer Chardonnay with a fabulous price-quality ratio that’s worth much more than a look; toss a couple in the cart. Vanilla, floral and mixed fruit salad on the nose, it revs up on the palate with a gusher of rich, luscious, silky-smooth flavour—ripe pear, white peach and tropical fruit predominant. The lingering balanced aftertaste layers on lemon sherbet, decorating a delicious mouth-watering experience. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: White Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Chateau Ste. Michelle Chardonnay 2009
Columbia Valley $17.95 (232439) 13.5% alcohol
With toasted almonds and pit fruit aromas on the nose, this is mid weight, balanced and refreshing on the finish. Flavours of crisp Granny Smith apple and racy lemon-lime wash over the palate and mid-length balanced aftertaste. It’s a wonderful patio-sipper with the balance and oomph to pair with seafood paella or supermarket, rotisserie chicken and fries. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Poets Row Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Sonoma County $17.95 (231621) 13.5% alcohol
This is lovely California Cab, the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour—pick up an armful after making certain I have mine. Showcasing restraint, deft balance and charm, it showers a palate-bathing focused wash of juicy ripe Bing cherry, black currant and blood plum. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with moderate alcohol and a fruit-filled aftertaste adorned with hints of mint. Pour with all manner of hot-off-the-Weber grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Sebastiani Zinfandel 2008
Sonoma County $17.95 (672667) 14.5% alcohol
Inky-hued and intensely fruity, this is a beguiling approachable Zin with aromas of sweet spice and tangy raspberry-blueberry pie. Dry and medium-full bodied, the ripe fruit is balanced with fresh acidity and soft tannin. Tasty, juicy and flavour-packed, the fruity finish offers lingering notes of toast and vanilla. Enjoy with barbequed sausage or meaty pizza. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Three Saints Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Santa Ynez Valley $23.95 (224121) 14.9% alcohol
Dried herbs, spice box and toasty oak on the nose, there’s an involved splash of flavour on the palate with mixed dark field berry fruit, espresso roast and black licorice interlaced with charry notes. It’s dry, mid weight with good mouth feel and a warm mid-length finish of red cherry and fennel. Give it a go with meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Boomtown Syrah 2007
Columbia Valley $19.95 (233452) 14.6% alcohol
Here’s a real crowd pleaser that’s high octane and high on the sweet, ripe-fruit meter. Ripe mulberry, kirsch liqueur and bramble berry jam coat the palate while chocolate-covered cherries and mocha dominate the aftertaste. It’s fully weighted with good texture and a great pairing for grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

**** drink now
Alamos Chardonnay 2010
Mendoza $13.95 (801671) 13.5% alcohol
Fashioned from hand-harvested fruit, this well-made medium-bodied Chard displays good balance and ripe orchard fruit. It’s aromatic, fresh and flavourful—toasty notes from well-integrated French oak, apple, pear, citrus and a whiff of vanilla on the palate with a hint of spice on the dry finish. It earned its final half-star for value and matches well with grilled chicken or pork dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Familia Zuccardi ‘Organica’ Torrontés 2010
Mendoza $13.95 (232694) 13.0% alcohol
Pale straw in the glass, it’s intensely perfumed with floral, tropical and preserved stone fruit aromas. Medium bodied, fresh and fruity, sweet citrus acidity washes the palate along with floral undertones on the dry tantalizing finish. It deserves its final half-star for value. Serve well chilled as an aperitif or pair with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Familia Zuccardi ‘Q’ Chardonnay 2009
Tupungato Vineyards, Mendoza $19.95 (232702) 13.5% alcohol
The ‘Q’ series from Zuccardi delivers fruit-forward value-packed reds and whites—no exception here. Kitchen spice, sweet vanilla and toasty notes on the nose, this struts its stuff with a balanced, rich and luscious wave of palate-bathing flavour—yellow peach, ripe pear with hints of quince. Mid weight and generously textured, the crisp refreshing aftertaste’s garnished with lashings of racy citrus and orchard fruit. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink now
Altocedro ‘Año Cero’ Tempranillo 2008
Mendoza $16.95 (232678) 14.0% alcohol
This is a tasty, deep-purple hued, fruit-packed red with tantalizing aromas of smoke, toasty spice and dark fruit. Medium-full bodied, the dark berry fruit is balanced with velvety tannins and fine acidity. Notes of spice and espresso roast appear and persist on the dry finish. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Benmarco Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Mendoza $16.95 (232637) 14.3% alcohol
There’s mixed spice and dark berry fruit on the nose providing segue to persistent, juicy black currant and spice-infused cherry on the palate. Those flavours replay on the mid-length finish along with sprigs of mint. It’s mid weight and nicely textured showing good balance and a supple tannin underpinning. Pour alongside spicy wings or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Carla Chiaro ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2007
Mendoza $14.95 (236085) 14.0% alcohol
Inky purple and expressive, this red has lovely aromas and flavours of black fruit, spicy toast and vanilla. Approachable and well crafted, it offers a balance of soft tannin and lively acidity along with fresh berry and plum fruit. There’s a dash of pepper and lingering warmth on the finish. The price-quality balance is tipped in your favour. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Zolo ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $16.95 (81091) 14.0% alcohol
Aged 14 months in French and American oak, this inky-purple gem is your go-to wine for the barbeque. Aromas of dark fruit, blackcurrant jam and sweet smoky spice rush from the glass. Dry and medium-full bodied, the perceptible tannin and fresh acidity balance rich ripe field berries and dark smoky toast. It’s full flavoured to the finish, where a hint of bittersweet chocolate lingers. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Zuccardi ‘Q’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza $19.95 (140855) 14.0% alcohol
Opaque purple and bursting with aromas of sweet spice, cassis, wild roses and vanilla, this has a smooth velvety texture. There’s great balance of nuanced fruit, ripe tannin and fine acidity. Approachable and refined, it finishes dry and tangy. Enjoy now with grilled lamb or beef, or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Familia Zuccardi ‘Q’ Tempranillo 2008
Santa Rosa Vineyards, Mendoza $19.95 (973503) 14.0% alcohol
In a word… Wow! It’s rich, luscious, balanced and delicious. Dark berry fruit, tar, black licorice and tobacco aromas presage succulent, balanced waves of juicy ripe mulberry, brambleberry and lively black Bing cherry. This is mid weight, generously textured with a balanced lengthy lip-smacking finish—it’s a value-laden thing of beauty. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Santa Carolina ‘Barrica Selection’ Carmenère 2009
Rapel Valley $14.95 (640888) 14.0% alcohol
Carmine red and intensely perfumed, enticing aromas of dark ripe berries, spice, herbs and toast abound. It’s dry and medium-full bodied with a tangy texture, soft tannin and fresh acidity. This has lots of presence on the palate; it’s a good match for barbequed meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Marquis Philips Shiraz 2008 

McLaren Vale, South Australia $15.00 (017475) 16.0% alcohol 

Rich and port-like, sweet and succulent in alcohol and style, this palate-coating, hedonistic, behemoth is flavour-packed with sweet, jammy flavour—cherry clafoutie, black plum compote and dark raisin. It’s full-bodied with a generous mouth feel and lingering finish. Sip with chocolate dessert, aged cheddar or a handmade stogie. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wynns Coonawarra ‘Estate’ Shiraz 2008
Coonawarra, South Australia $19.95 (433060) 14.0% alcohol
Deep purple and high toned, this is a round, beautifully balanced, substantial red with velvety tannin and soft acidity. It captures the senses with dark fruit, sweet spice and notes of vanilla. The sweet spice persists on the finish mingling with nuances of toast and licorice. Excellent value, consider picking up a few and enjoying as it evolves in the cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Kim Crawford ‘SP Spitfire’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (038240) 13.5% alcohol
A pungent nose of nettles, mixed spice box and dried herbs is the clarion call for a deftly balanced, juicy and flavourful river of lemon drop, passion fruit and lime sherbet. This is mid weight with a generous mouth feel sporting a long, lip-smacking finish wreathed with nuances of ripe pineapple and lemon chiffon pie. It’s matched well with clams in pasta sauce a.k.a. linguine alle vongole. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

**** drink now
Rupert & Rothschild ‘Classique’ 2008
WO Western Cape $19.95 (717991) 13.5% alcohol
Semi-opaque, fragrant and fresh, this blend of Cabernet and Merlot delights with aromas of berries, herbs, spice and vanilla. It’s smooth on entry with soft tannin and vibrant acidity matched to red fruit and gentle herbal notes. Medium bodied and flavourful, it offers notes of toasty oak on the long dry aftertaste. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

**** drink now
Château Bertinerie ‘Cru Réserve’ 2006
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux $17.95 (244640) 13.0% alcohol
This red blend offers a complex nose of dark fruit, dried herbs and spice. Medium bodied and polished, there’s a firm underlying structure, fresh acidity, consistency and depth of flavours. The dry finish offers a persistent slightly peppery note. Good balance and value. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Château Faizeau 2007
AOC Montagne Saint-Émilion $23.00 (102616) 13.0% alcohol
Semi-opaque ruby, this old-vines offering is fragrant and enticing with plum, berry fruit and aromas from the barrel—vanilla, spice and cedar. Mid-weight, refined and balanced, there’s focused red fruit on the palate with a firm tannic underpinning and lively acidity. Fruit and spice flow through the dry lengthy aftertaste. Serve it now with roast beef tenderloin or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** cellar
Château Fontenil 2006
AOC Fronsac $49.95 (567404) 14.0% alcohol
The ubiquitous Michel Rolland of ‘Mondovino’ documentary fame, or infamy depending on your view, fashioned this in his own likeness—bold, impressive, forward. Impressive aromas of tar, licorice and dark berry fruit mingling with spice jump from this rich, luscious, full-bodied red. Bold fruit-forward flavours of black currant, ripe dark cherry and spiced black plum resonate on the palate and weave through the long balanced aftertaste. There’s a solid tannin underpinning, best poured 2014 – 2019 with a generous slab of grilled beef or rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Kirwan 2007
AOC Margaux $65.00 (098566) 13.0% alcohol
Showcasing its ‘3rd growth’ provenance, it opens with a complex nose of exotic spice, underbrush, mixed dark berry fruit and hints of tobacco. It’s medium-full bodied and beautifully textured sporting a balanced stream of red and black cherry, cassis and black currant. It finishes lengthy and luxurious with rich and luscious fruit—mulberry and currant—wreathed with mint and underpinned by supple tannin. Decant/aerate three hours or pop the cork 2013 – 2017. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Sublime ‘Vielles Vignes’ Juliénas 2009
AOC Juliénas $17.95 (208009) 13.0% alcohol
This commands your attention—a top vineyard site, 45-year-old vines, a juicy lip-smacking red and desirable price-quality ratio. Mixed spice and lilac aromas on the nose provide segue to a lovely ripe fruit flavour—black currant, juicy Bing cherry and kirsch liqueur. There’s a juicy tangy aftertaste of pie cherry and red currant that’s dry and lip-smacking delicious. Lovely on its own, you can also pour with roast chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Bouchard Père et Fils Côte de Beaune-Villages 2008
AOC Côte de Beaune-Villages $24.95 (714998) 13.0% alcohol
Semi transparent and ruby hued, this classically styled red delivers tantalizing earthy, beetroot and red berry aromas plus a whiff of sweet smoky spice. It’s medium bodied with fine tannin and a backbone of fresh acidity supporting the raspberry and pie cherry flavours. The finish is dry, lengthy and mouth-wateringly fresh. Enjoy with roasted pork tenderloin au jus or tuck away medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now two glasses
La Garde des Lions Visan 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $14.95 (222588) 14.0% alcohol
Vic and I both loved this award-winning red blend—Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Enticing aromas of sweet dark berry fruit, black licorice, chocolate-coated berries and spice jump from the glass. It’s mid weight and silky smooth with balanced flavours throughout—bramble berry, raspberry and peppery spice wash over the palate and lingering warm aftertaste. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Louis Bernard Gigondas 2008
AOC Gigondas $19.95 (222596) 13.5% alcohol
A blend of Grenache and Syrah, this is nicely crafted and well balanced bursting with aromas of red berry fruit and floral notes along with hints of pepper and spice. Mid weight with a firm tannic structure, there’s fresh acidity and a long fruity finish. Enjoy it with grilled red meats over the next five years. (Susan Desjardins)

***** drink or cellar two glasses
Perrins ‘Les Cornuds’ Vinsobres 2009
AOC Vinsobres $15.00 (241604) 14.5% alcohol
My, oh my; pick up a cartload. Vic and I both loved this deeply hued, intensely flavoured, 50/50 Grenache/Syrah blend. Bold and complex, there are layers of concentrated fruit flavours— spiced dark juicy berries and dark cherry interlaced with kirsch liqueur, smoke and minerality. It’s all framed by ripe supple tannin and moderating acidity. A lingering fruit-filled, well-balanced aftertaste completes the package. Excellent value—enjoy now to 2018. (Susan Desjardins)

Germany: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Balthasar Ress Riesling Spätlese 1998
Pradikätswein Hattenheim Nussbrunnen, Rheingau $20.95 (160762) 8.5% alcohol
Well made, well paced and well… delicious. The deep-gold hue heralds its maturity—vintage1998. Petrol, slate and honeyed fruit notes on the nose, it delivers a glorious mélange of sweet ripe flavour with honey-infused pear, baked apple, quince and tropical fruit among them. It finishes with good moderating acidity providing balance and a clean refreshing aftertaste. Poured perfectly with dessert—fruit flan, apfelkuchen or crème brulée. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

**** drink now
Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2009
DOCG Vernaccia di San Gimignano $16.95 (231852) 13.0% alcohol
A good example of one of Tuscany’s unique white wines, this straw-hued gem displays subtle floral, herbal, citrus and orchard fruit aromas. Dry, with a silky tangy texture, it’s bright and flavoursome on the palate with citrus and orchard fruit riding a wave of vibrant acidity. A crisp and refreshing wine that’s perfect well chilled—picture yourself on a patio under the Tuscan sun. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink now
Abbona Rinaldi Barbera d’Alba 2008
DOC Barbera d’Alba $19.95 (216416) 14.5% alcohol
You’ll be carried away by the lifted aromas—ripe cherry/berry fruit, sweet spice, vanilla and licorice. There’s beautiful balance of ripe tannin, fresh acidity and rich fruit with toasty notes and a hint of dill. The finish lingers and the ripe fruit replays with a lift of peppery warmth—simply delicious. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Suoi Barolo 2006
DOCG Barolo $33.95 (212522) 13.5% alcohol
Semi transparent, this is flavourful with a lovely aromatic complexity—floral and earthy notes with fruit compote and hints of char. On the palate it’s balanced and medium-full bodied offering flavours of spiced red fruit and persistent earthy notes coupled with a silky smooth texture, ripe tannin and fresh acidity. Enjoy it now with pasta and porcini mushrooms or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Gladiator Primitivo di Manduria 2008
DOC Primitivo di Manduria $15.95 (23119) 14.0% alcohol
Rich, smooth and velvety, this robust red captures you with tempting aromas and flavours of ripe berries, vanilla and spice. Medium-full bodied, it’s very approachable yet destined to win you over with its arsenal of dark fruit, dark chocolate, toast and a strong peppery edge that carries through the dry finish. Don’t fight it, gulp it. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Lazzeretti Brunello di Montalcino 2003
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $36.95 (212456) 14.0% alcohol
Involved charming aromas of aromatic bitters, dark berry fruit and gamy notes presage a rich concentrated flow of red cherry, cassis, blood plum and mixed spice. Medium bodied, balanced and well textured, the lingering finish layers on black juicy cherry and ripe mulberry burnished with espresso roast. There’s good moderating acidity and a supple tannin structure. Not for long term aging, this classy number’s good to go now. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Montiverdi ‘Vigneto Cipressone’ Chianti Classico 1998 

DOCG Chianti Classico $24.95 (954370) 13.0% alcohol 

One of the stars of the release, this Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blend offers a dozen years of careful cellaring, solid fruit flavour, good structure, deft balance and complexity. There’s a lifted involved bouquet of vanilla, leather and plum compote that segues a complex and richly flavoured wash of kirsch liqueur, blackberry and spiced black currant on the palate. It finishes dry, lengthy, balanced and lip-smacking fruity. It’s a great sipping wine with the character to pair nicely with beef carpaccio. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Santa Margherita Chianti Classico 2007 

DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (091694) 13.5% alcohol 

The quiet nose begrudgingly gives up aromas of floral and spice while the expressive smooth and mellow flavours spill out willingly—pie cherry, black currant and spice-laden blueberry. It’s mid weight, deftly balanced with a dry, mouth-watering, mid-length finish that layers on wisps of oak and racy cranberry. Pour alongside Swiss steak or spicy meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Viticcio Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $32.95 (599308) 13.5% alcohol
Earning its stripes with attention-getting flavour, deft balance and charm—it’s worth every dollar. An upscale red that swaggers from the glass with attention-getting aromas of lilac, leather and cigar box, it delivers a stream of flavour with complexity and depth—black juicy Bing cherry, sweet ripe mulberry and nuances of spice-infused red currant. It’s medium weight and silky smooth, sporting a succulent refreshing aftertaste underpinned by a solid tannin structure. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Baron de Ley Reserva 2005
DOCa Rioja $19.95 (958868) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of bacon, underbrush and aromatic bitters waft easily from this well-structured, deftly balanced Tempranillo. There’s a tangy river of pie cherry, black currant and herbal notes leading to a lingering finish that layers on fennel and toasty notes along with ripe mulberry. It’s fruity, mid weight and nicely textured, offering fair value. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Torres ‘Gran Coronas Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
DO Penedès $9.95 (626721) 375 mL 14.0% alcohol
This is very charming with sense of purpose, rich concentrated flavour and excellent balance throughout. Aromas of black currant and cherry mingle with fennel and cedar presaging a balanced wash of flavour on the palate—juicy Bing cherry, black licorice and tarry dark berry fruit. There’s a lovely mouth feel, it finishes dry, lengthy and refreshing. Pour alongside rare-grilled flank steak after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Torres ‘Gran Sangre de Toro Reserva’ 2007
DO Catalunya $15.95 (315648) 14.0% alcohol
This is a go-to value-packed red to be poured with burgers, meat-laden pizza and spicy wings; no bull. Aromatic bitters, espresso roast and mixed spice charge from the glass preceding a stampede of sweet, ripe flavour—black raspberry, ripe bramble berry pie and mint-infused cherry. This ‘Reserva’ is a step up from what’s usually available and good value; I wouldn’t steer you wrong—corral a couple. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: Fall 2011

***1/2 drink now
Kuehn ‘Grand Cru Florimont’ Riesling 2009
AOC Alsace Grand Cru, France $21.55 12.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of exotic spice introduce a persistent off-dry stream of ripe fruit flavour moderated by a wonderful sweet and tang aftertaste. This is medium bodied with a generous mouth feel. Sweet pear, apple and spice mingle with lemony citrus on the palate while the mid-length finish layers on yellow plum and a refreshing dollop of key lime showcasing that magical yin and yang that pairs so well with spicy Asian dishes like pad Thai. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: September, 2011

**** drink now
Rosewood Estates Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $20.20 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of toast and spice-infused red and dark berries provide segue for a persistent stream of tangy juicy flavour with racy red cranberry, beetroot and red currant to the fore. Light-medium weight with good mouth feel, this finishes dry and fruity with nuances of pie cherry underpinned by perceptible tannin. Versatile at the table as duck breast, Cornish game hen and clay-baked chicken all work well after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

**** drink now
Cono Sur ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
DO Maipo Valley, Chile $12.95 (218883) 13.8% alcohol
This is rock-solid 4 stars dishing up a deftly balanced juicy mouthful of ripe dark fruit and a dry refreshing aftertaste. Aromas of dark cherry, charry notes and wisps of mint presage a juicy wash of Bing cherry, mixed field berry and wisps of toasty oak on the palate and persistent aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and a supple tannin underpinning. Delicious on its own, it has the oomph to pair with grilled strip loin or rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Cono Sur ‘Reserva’ Carmenère Rosé 2009
DO Colchagua Valley, Chile $11.95 (234567) 13.5% alcohol
A lifted nose of red raspberry, spice and floral notes provide segue for a river of sweet, ripe fruit on the palate—fresh strawberry and red currant galore. It’s silky smooth and generously textured sporting a well-balanced, crisp refreshing aftertaste of ruby red grapefruit and red berry fruit. This value-packed gem has the body and character to pair up well with roast chicken or lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Konzelmann ‘Fresco Secco - 4 Generations’ Sparkling 2008 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (193565) 11.5% alcohol
Clean, crisp and refreshing, this 100% Riesling delivers a brief burst of bubbles carrying a good array of racy tangy flavours with lemon-lime, white grapefruit and Granny Smith apple predominant. It’s light on its feet and delicately textured with a lively aftertaste. Give it a go with seafood or lighter appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Masi ‘Modello delle Venezie’ Rosato 2010
IGT Rosato delle Venezie, Italy $10.95 (587725) 12.0% alcohol
Subtle aromas of field berry fruit and cherry intro this fresh and lively, lighter-styled Rosé. It’s mouth-wateringly crisp on the palate with focused flavours of cranberry and red currant jelly. A great aperitif to get the gastric juices flowing, it really shines with food—white pizza, mesculan salad topped with chèvre or a mixed deli platter. Trust the Masi name, it delivers quality and value. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink or cellar
Konzelmann Icewine Riesling 2008 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $54.20 375 mL 10.0% alcohol
Perfumed and alluring aromas abound with honeyed apple and mango to the fore. It’s viscous and vivacious on the palate with excellent moderating acidity counter-balancing rich, ripe fruit—caramel apple, Bosc pear and a salad bowl of tropical fruit. The finish is fruit forward and lip-smacking good. Serve chilled on its own as dessert. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Konzelmann. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Konzelmann ‘Special Select Late Harvest’ Vidal 2008 

VQA Ontario $20.15 375 mL 11.0% alcohol
Ripe pineapple with hints of truffle oil on the nose, this bathes the palate with a wash of sweet concentrated flavour—mango, desiccated apricot and honeyed peach. It’s mid weight and nicely textured sporting a lively balanced aftertaste of baked apple and peach cobbler. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Konzelmann. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Konzelmann Icewine Vidal 2008 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $65.20 375 mL 10.0% alcohol
A superb example of world-class dessert wine, this rips from the glass with sexy aromas of exotic spice, butter tart and honeyed mango. Palate-coating flavours ride on silky smooth waves of gorgeous texture—peel marmalade, rosewater and sweet grilled pineapple. The finish lingers and you should too, after dinner with a glass of this and blue-veined cheese. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Konzelmann. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Lailey Vineyard ‘brickyard’ Pinot Noir 2009 

VQA Niagara River $35.20 12.5% alcohol

This is an old-vines beauty—planted 1996—it’s well balanced, complex and nicely structured with fine-grained tannin complemented by a lingering fruity aftertaste. Minerality, wisps of oak and spiced red berry fruit dominate the aromas heralding a persistent current of ripe strawberry, racy red currant and pomegranate gliding through the nicely balanced, long, dry finish. Decant/aerate a couple of hours then enjoy on its own or paired with jointed, grilled Cornish game hen. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Lailey Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.20 13.0% alcohol
A truly delightful drop showcasing a satin smooth mouth feel—it enjoyed lees stirring in well-seasoned oak—delicious balanced flavour and a crisp refreshing finish; what’s not to like? White peach, floral notes and tropical fruit adorned with leafy tones on the nose, this bathes the palate with balanced waves of flavour—pit fruit mingling with nuances of spice-infused gooseberry. The refreshing lengthy finish layers on racy lemon citrus and ripe yellow plum. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rosewood Estates Cabernet Franc 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $20.20 12.5% alcohol
From a challenging vintage comes this striking wine that evolves in the glass. At first the aromas are pungent, followed by enticing complex dried herbs, vanilla, dark chocolate, figs and dark fruit. Silky smooth on the palate, it’s fresh and lavish with savoury herbs, dark berry and plum fruit, smoky toast and an appealing persistent note of dark chocolate. A wine to savour and ponder, it wants a chunk of rare grilled meat. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Rosewood 1.866.633.3248. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Rosewood Estates ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $25.20 14.0% alcohol

Apple torte, spiced yellow plum and wisps of oak on the nose, this medium-bodied, nicely textured Chard sports a lovely wash of pit fruit and tangy lemon acidity interlaced with minerality. It finishes mid length with spice-infused citrus and apple. Delicious sipped on its own, it’s a perfect pairing with roast chicken. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Rosewood 1.866.633.3248. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Rosewood Estates Gewürztraminer 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $18.20 13.0% alcohol

Pure gold in the glass, this is perfumed and fragrant with floral, spice, honey and sweet citrus aromas. It’s an award-winning wine offering satiny texture and good weight. A fine balance of flavourful tropical fruit, tangy spice and fresh acidity brightens the palate lasting through the impressive finish. Sip it chilled or enjoy with spicy Asian food. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Rosewood 1.866.633.3248. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Rosewood Estates Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $20.20 12.5% alcohol

Aromas of toast and spice-infused red and dark berries provide segue for a persistent stream of tangy juicy flavour with racy red cranberry, beetroot and red currant to the fore. Light-medium weight with good mouth feel, it finishes dry and fruity with nuances of pie cherry underpinned by perceptible tannin. Versatile at the table, duck breast, Cornish game hen and clay-baked chicken all work well. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Rosewood 1.866.633.3248. (Vic Harradine)

Consignment Wines

**** drink or cellar
Chateau Caladroy Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2007
AOC Côtes du Roussillon Villages, France $19.95 14.5% alcohol
This red blend—Syrah, Carignan, Grenache and Mourvedre—punches well above the price delivering a juicy mouthful from a top notch vintage. Spice-infused bramble berry, tar and espresso roast along with gamey notes on the nose, the palate’s treated to a wave of flavour with charry toast, dark bramble berry and racy pie cherry to the fore. The rustic dry finish is underpinned by perceptible tannin and framed by dark berry fruit and nuances of dried herbs. Decant/aerate two hours and serve with game or grilled pepper steak. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Bodega Dehesa De Luna Tempranillo 2008
Vino se la Tierra de Castilla, Spain $21.35 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a crowd-pleaser that’s chockfull of juicy well-balanced flavour and very food friendly. Spice, toasty/oaky notes and dark field berry fruit on the nose, it washes over the palate in juicy, tangy waves—bramble berry, sweet ripe mulberry and spiced black currant. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a lingering, well-balanced, fruit-forward aftertaste adorned by black licorice. Pair with grilled steak, spicy back ribs or grilled lamb chops. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Quevedo Rosé Port Non-Vintage
Portugal $19.10 19.5% alcohol
Here’s a fresh and lively Rosé—a delicious refreshing summer sipper to be served chilled or over ice—and it’s Port. Freshly sliced strawberry and raspberry flavours abound with an underlying delectable wisp of cherry cordial. Capturing the laid-back fun of friends on a warm summer day, it’s a cool drink enjoyed as is or cut with a splash of soda. Order by the case delivered to your home or office from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Quinta da Raza Vinho Verde 2010
DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal $11.95 11.5% alcohol
This delivers a crisp, refreshing mouthful of summer in a glass; it’s a perfect sipping wine or aperitif—or drink as they do in Portugal paired with mussels, clams, prawns. Alluring on the nose with orange blossom and citrus, it delivers a dazzling and delectable spritzy stream of ripe mandarin orange, lemon sherbet with a delightful aftertaste of racy lip-smacking white grapefruit. Vinho Verde doesn’t get better than this, pick up a case for home or office delivery from Nokhrin Wines. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan