Winecurrent

May 14, 2011 Vintages Release

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include: 

  • Wow! – Michel Delhommeau Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine is a 4½ star white wine at $12.95 and worthy of a multiple purchase
  • Konzelmann ‘Late Harvest’ Gewürztraminer – Off-dry and spicy, it sips well and pairs with spicy Asian food. It’s in the ‘Main Release’ and not to be missed.
  • Finding Waldo – it’s a 4½ star $15.95 white blend gem from E. Guigal—predominantly Viognier, it’s flamboyant and refreshing.
  • Dehasa ‘Gago’ – 4 stars and $14.95 is rich crowd-pleasing Tempranillo found under ‘Spain: Red Wine’ in the main release.
  • Featherstone Estate Winery – offers a trio of beauties after the main release in ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ at the conclusion of the newsletter – all worth a buy.

This winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature from the Vintages Release catalogue on wines from the southern Rhône followed by the Main Release.

Southern Rhône Feature

**** drink now
Domaine Croze-Granier ‘Cuvée Reserve’ Côtes du Rhône 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône $13.95 (736371) 14.0% alcohol
There’s a crisp set of aromas—dried dark berry fruit, oak and savory spice—providing segue into a tangy wash of flavour with racy sour cherry and red currant. Mid weight and light-medium bodied, it rides a wave of juicy lively flavour throught the mouth-watering finish with pomegranate and cherry/berry galore. It earned its final ½ star on value and pairs well with smoked back ribs slathered in spicy BBQ sauce or a platter of spicy wings. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Le Gravilla ‘Sablet’ 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $14.95 (078790) 15.0% alcohol
This is a sure-fire crowd pleaser—pick up a few for easy drinking over the next two to three years. There are gobs of rich ripe black currant and cherry aromas on the nose. It’s mid weight with a generous texture and delivers a bucketload of sweet ripe flavour on the palate—kirsch liqueur and cassis. It finishes long and fruit-laden with a splash of moderating acidity for balance. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
La Coterie ‘Séguret’ 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $15.95 (219428) 14.0% alcohol
There are loads of savory ‘garrigue’ and mixed field berry on the nose before delivering a steady stream of dry tangy flavour throughout. It’s medium-bodied with a racy juicy stream of red grapefuit, sour cherry and cranberry on the palate and lip-smacking dry aftertaste underpinned by perceptible tannin. Shifts into high gear poured alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta in spicy tomato-meat sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Domaine Martin Cairanne 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhônes-Villages $16.95 (223461) 14.0% alcohol
Fashionable with prime rib or grilled back ribs ; it’s balanced and beautifully constructed. Aromas of spice, dark toast and dark berrry fruit rip from the glass. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a rush of flavour persisting through the lengthy dry lip-smacking finish—brambleberry, black juicy cherry and espresso roast. Good wine, good value; pick up a couple. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Alain Jaume ‘Grande Garrigue’ Vacqueyras 2009
AOC Vacqueyras $22.95 (233916) 15.0% alcohol
It opens with a spice-driven nose of berry fruit and dark toast while the palate’s coated with a serious gusher of blueberry, black currant and cassis. It’s well-structured, medium-full bodied, sporting a creamy texture and lengthy aftertaste with a solid tannin presence. Drink now after a two-hour decant and on to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de la Pierre Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $34.95 (235036) 15.0% alcohol
Complex and balanced with excellent carpentry, this offers outstanding value. Aromas of rich dark berry fruit and dark chocolate presage a layered wave of balanced flavour with mint-infused cherry, spiced black plum compote and black currant mingling with bittersweet chocolate and spice on the lingering aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied with a generous mouth feel and versatile at the table; give it a go with osso bucco or grilled rare to medium-rare strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
La Bastide Saint Dominique Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $42.95 (231233) 15.5% alcohol
Soft red plum and rose petal aromas abound on the lifted nose. Rich and lusicious on the palate it’s flavour laden and fruit forward with ripe sweet black cherry and kirsch liqueur interwoven with Asian spice on the palate and lingering aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied with a generous texture and solid tannin underpinning. Decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône $15.95 (290296) 13.5% alcohol
Gaining its final ½ star on value, this white blend—60% Viognier—rips from the glass with involved lifted aromas of peach, pear and tropical fruit with floral overtones that are replayed on the palate with gusto. It’s mid weight, with a generous mouth feel and showy throughout. Decidedly off-dry on the delightful aftertaste, it’s still crisp and refreshing. Decant for thirty minutes before serving to gain full benefit from this dazzling blend. Pick up a few for summer enjoyment. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

**** drink now
Cálem LBV Port 2004
DOC Douro $19.95 (912550) 20.0% alcohol
Spice and ripe dark berry fruit on the nose, this sports a huge mouthful of cherry/berry and spice infused bramble berry on the palate and warm lengthy aftertaste. It’s silky smooth, fully textured providing good balance and value. Paired well with chocolate dessert or blue-venied cheese. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Graham’s ‘Six Grapes’ Reserve Port 

DOC Porto $20.95 (208405) 20.0% alcohol 

Here’s a well-priced Port delivering a rich concentrated persistent stream of flavour—spice cake, black raspberry, kirsch liqueur and oodles of sweet black juicy cherry. It’s full-bodied and creamy textured dishing out a finish of spice-infused chocolate-dipped cherry flavour. This matches up well with dark chocolate or aged hard cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Fortified Wine: Dessert

**** drink now
Vidal-Fleury Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise 2008
AOC Beaumes-de-Venise $17.95 (210096) 15.0% alcohol
From one of the oldest wineries in the Rhône, Vidal-Fleury was family owned until recently before being bought by Guigal—their dessert wines are highly respected and this vintage is no exception. Peel marmalade, peach Melba and honeyed apricot on the palate, it’s delectably balanced with good acidity and sweet ripe fruit-laden flavours. Great with cheescake, fruit flan or delicious on its own as dessert.

**** drink now
Kourtaki Muscat Samos 

AOC Samos $14.95 (938407) 15.0% alcohol 

And now for something completely different, a ‘Vin Doux Naturel’—it’s a bottle you might not give a second glance… pity. This offers good value, a fabulous welcoming wine—over the rocks with a splash of tonic or soda—and can be served as dessert. Sweet flavours of dried apricot, honeyed apple and pear coat the palate and gorgeous finish. Great at summer gatherings. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Fielding Estate ‘White Conception’ 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (203737) 12.5% alcohol
Fielding’s winemaker, Richie Roberts, learned his lessons well from the master when assistant to J-L Groux at Stratus; this is a nicely balanced slightly off-dry blend with a crisp and refreshing aftertaste. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and flavours of pear and apple. It finishes with enough sweet and tang that’ll make it a hit with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Konzelmann ‘Late Harvest’ Gewürztraminer 2008 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $17.20 (392357) 13.0% alcohol 

Calling all Gewürz lovers, you won’t want to miss this gem—the gorgeous golden colour portends the weight and texture. Enticing aromas of rose water, lychee and spicy tropical notes lead into a nicely balanced, mid-weight, just off-dry beauty with refreshing, pungent acidity, and a lovely replay of the rich, ripe fruit and spice on the palate. Delightful on its own, it’ll be a great match to spicy Asian dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Rosehall Run Chardonnay Musqué 2009 

VQA Prince Edward County $17.95 (019353) 12.0% alcohol 

This is the first release of this varietal from estate grown fruit and it’s wrapped in their classy new label. Aromas of exotic alluring spice and tropical fruit usher in this light-on-its-feet refreshing aperitif-styled quaffer. White peach, limeade and lemon zest abound on the palate while the crisp finish adds mouth-watering citrus tang. A great welcoming wine, it sips particularly well al fresco. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Vineland Pinot Meunier 2009
VQA Niagara Escarpment $17.95 (225508) 13.0% alcohol
This Pinot Meunier, the unheralded workhorse grape of Champagne, certainly provides a pleasant surprise as a varietal bottled on its own. Earthy and spice-infused aromas of dark berry fruit introduce this light-ruby-hued beauty. The palate’s treated to a juicy fruit-laden mouthful of black currant, dark cherry and spice that persists through the mid-length warm finish. It’s well structured and nicely balanced making it a prime candidate for pouring with grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

British Columbia: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2008
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (377770) 13.7% alcohol
This is fruit-laden and fully textured with good acidity throughout. Toasty, smoky aromas segue a crisp and refreshing rush of green apple and citrus mingling with wisps of vanilla and oak. Mid weight and nicely balanced it finishes full of racy lemon tones. A well made quaffing wine that’ll pour well with roast chicken or slow-roasted pork shoulder. (Vic Harradine)

British Columbia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Burrowing Owl Merlot 2008
VQA Okanagan Valley $39.95 (585737) 14.0% alcohol
Rich, ripe berry aromas and aromatic bitters on the nose, this dishes up a racy red with loads of character and firm tannin underpinning. Red and black currant wash over the palate melding with excellent acidity on the refreshing, mouth-watering aftertaste that layers on hints of minerality and espresso roast. Serve after a two-hour decant alongside pulled pork panini. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Rosé

**** drink now
Malivoire ‘Ladybug’ Rosé 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (559088) 13.0% alcohol
This is well balanced with excellent acidity and vibrant fruit flavour coupled with enough oomph to pair nicely with main course cuisine. Cherry, strawberry and spice on the nose, racy flavours of fresh strawberry and spice-infused red cherry abound on the palate and lengthy balanced finish. Mid weight with a substantial mouth feel, this sips well on its own and pours perfectly with roast chicken or duck. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Peninsula Ridge ‘Beal Vineyards’ Cabernet Rosé 2010
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (177840) 13.5% alcohol
Offering much more than you’ll pay, this value-packed Rosé is mid-full weight with a generous mouth feel and exotic nose of rose petals, cranberry muffin and spice. Flavours of juicy strawberry-rhubarb pie and spiced black plum persist on the palate and lingering well-balanced finish. Pair with mesculan salad under grilled and crumbled chèvre or vegetarian Portobello mushroom burgers. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bonny Doon ‘Beeswax Vineyard Le Cigare Blanc’ 2008
Arroyo Seco, Central Coast $29.95 (95331) 14.5% alcohol
The honeyed, smoky notes on the nose quickly give way to a Randall Graham blended gem that’s richly textured, deftly balanced and fruity. White peach, melon and mineral notes wash over the palate with nuances of banana and honeyed citrus poking through. There’s great sweet and tang on the finish providing the yin and yang to pour successfully with butter chicken, pad Thai or masala machchi (spicy fish). (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink now
Artesa ‘Reserve’ Merlot 2006
Napa Valley $24.95 (658534) 14.4% alcohol
Rich, ripe and luscious, aromas of cedar and black berry fruit abound on the lifted nose. Ripe and layered sweet flavours—kirsch liqueur, black luscious Bing cherry and mixed spice—wash over the palate in waves persisting though the lengthy fleshy fruit-filled aftertaste. It’s mid weight, generously textured and looking for barbecued spicy back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Mourvèdre 2009
Contra Costa County $18.95 (66084) 15.0% alcohol
This over-delivers on the price-quality scale gaining its final ½ star on value—pick up a few for now and over the next five years. Chocolate and dark ripe bramble berry aromas presage a dense and rich river of cherry/berry, cassis and spice running through the extended involved finish. It’s medium-full bodied and silky smooth with good texture, balance and delectable flavour throughout. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Innisfree Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Napa Valley $37.95 (38125) 13.5% alcohol
Anything from Joseph Phelps winery, especially Cabernet Sauvignon, is worth a punt—tuck this away for an optimum drinking window 2013-2020. Layered and structured, along with perceptible tannin for now, this red blend—there’s 11% Merlot and a splash of Petit Verdot—is full of flavour and promise. It’s full-bodied and generously textured and oozing flavour—cassis, black raspberry and mint-infused cherry persisting through the drying finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Sonoma County $22.95 (226944) 13.8% alcohol

Dense and dark, this is a nicely structured Cabernet with attractive floral aromas, cedar, spice and classic cassis. It’s dry with ripe tannin, fine acidity and ripe, spicy, dark berry flavours. Medium-full bodied and well balanced, it has a full-flavoured, mid-length finish. Good wine, good value. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Rutherford Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Napa Valley $19.95 (213777) 12.5% alcohol
This is rock-solid 4 stars with a delightful nose of spice box and mixed field berry. Rich luscious cassis and cherry flavours mingle with nuances of toasty oak and minty herbs. The aftertaste is lengthy and chewy with dark chocolate-covered cherry and juicy red currant underpinned by a firm tannin structure—decant two hours before pouring. It possesses the oomph, balance and charm to front up well to grilled steak or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

**** drink now
Erath Pinot Noir 2008
Oregon $26.95 (932541) 13.0% alcohol
This is a lovely rendition of Pinot Noir with loads of appeal for red-wine lovers of all stripes. It’s well structured and chockfull of flavour with oodles of racy red currant, cranberry and juicy ripe red cherry. It’s lip-smacking good on the lengthy mouth-watering finish looking for dance partners like duck breast or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Dusted Valley ‘Boomtown’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Columbia Valley $19.95 (220376) 14.2% alcohol
Milk chocolate and dark rich cherry aromas provide segue to a surge of bramble berry, black currant and juicy rich Bing cherry. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely textured with a persistent finish festooned with rich ripe berry fruit mingling with spice and espresso roast. This delivers good value. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Alamos Malbec 2009 

Mendoza $13.95 (467951) 14.0% alcohol 

Here’s a youthful deep purple Malbec with attractive aromas and flavours of spicy, dark berry fruit, vanilla and toast. It’s dry, medium bodied and smooth on the palate where ripe tannins and fresh acidity balance the robust fruit flavours. Harmonious and lengthy on the finish, it’s a good match to your choice of grilled red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Norton ‘Privada’ 2007
Mendoza $21.95 (148155) 14.8% alcohol
Fennel, licorice and tobacco aromas waft easily from this mid-weight red blend—Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Silky smooth sweet flavours of cherry clafoutie, kirsch liqueur and plum compote coat the palate and persist through the lengthy sweet and fruity finish. Pour with spicy wings or grilled back ribs brushed with spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Santa Carolina ‘Dry Farming’ Carignan 2008
Cauquenes Valley $16.95 (213520) 14.5% alcohol
Savory aromas of exotic spice and dark toast mingle with red berry and floral notes on the rich complex nose of this value-packed red. It brims with dense spice-driven flavour—juicy black Bing cherry and mouth-watering red currant. Balanced and beautifully textured, the finish lingers. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour, toss a few in the cart. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

**** drink now
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay 2009
Coonawarra, South Australia $17.95 (468728) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s a delicious mouthful of tangy well-balanced Chardonnay that’s on the hunt for a patio, deck or balcony on a warm summer day. Deftly integrated oak, acidity and fruit—crisp lemon, racy pineapple and green apple—coalesce on the palate and lengthy balanced aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied, well textured and the perfect squelch to the ABC (anything but Chardonnay) crowd. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Chapel Hill Shiraz 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (743989) 15.0% alcohol
The 2008 vintage experienced a 13 day heat spike of +35 C and still managed to produce some delicious reds – here’s one. This richly flavoured Shiraz is well structured delivering a boat load of fruit—ripe mulberry, rich black cherry and sweet plum compote. It’s full-bodied and generously textured with a lengthy fruit-laden finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Dandelion Vineyards ‘Lionheart of the Barossa’ Shiraz 2008 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $18.95 (167189) 14.5% alcohol 

This was gently basket-pressed followed by 12 months in oak then left unfiltered and unfined. That undoubtedly added to the complex, rich, concentrated flavours—fig, plum compote, raisin and licorice—also reflecting the über-hot heat spike during the ‘08 vintage. It’s medium-full bodied, hugely textured and oozing with sweet ripe fruit throughout the lengthy finish. There’s good texture and it’s drinking well now and will over the next three years. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Grant Burge ‘Filsell Old Vine’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (987453) 14.5% alcohol
Dense, rich and flamboyant, this jumps from the glass with lifted involved aromas of aromatic bitters, juicy dark cherry and dark berry plus black licorice. Teeth-staining and fruit-laden flavours of plum compote, spiced dark cherry and racy pomegranate wash in waves and coat the palate. The mid-length finish adds balance and a ripe tannin structure. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Penfolds ‘Bin 389’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2007
South Australia $37.95 (309625) 14.5% alcohol
A fragrant alluring bouquet blossoms easily from the glass with an involved amalgam of aromatic bitters, vanilla, and dark berry fruit. The palate’s treated to waves of flavour with cassis, dark chocolate and dark berry fruit with undertones of toasty oak to the fore. The finish is fine tuned and lengthy with ripe perceptible tannin, good moderating acidity and deft balance. Decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Two Hands ‘Gnarly Dudes’ Shiraz 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $26.95 (660043) 14.8% alcohol
Never a misstep from Two Hands, this fruit-filled Shiraz has Barossa written all over it. Lifted aromas blast from the glass with espresso roast and spice-filled cherries predominant. Delightfully robust extracted flavours of ripe sweet mulberry, spiced fruit cake and warm plum compote coat the palate persisting through the lingering luxurious finish. It’s mid weight with a very generous mouth feel delivering an underpinning of ripe fine-grained tannin for structure and good moderating acidity for balance. Drink now to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Craggy Range ‘Te Muna Road Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Martinborough, North Island $24.95 (225706) 13.5% alcohol
This is tangy and full of life and vibrancy. It marries ripe tropical fruit—melon and pineapple—with zingy citrus acidity on the palate delivering a clean crisp refreshing aftertaste. It’s mid weight, quite generously textured—some lees ageing—and pairs perfectly with lemon chicken or pan-seared fish or prawns under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Pencarrow Pinot Noir 2009
Martinborough, North Island $21.95 (692301) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s a beautifully structured and lively Pinot worth a multiple purchase. It’s stinky and barnyard on the nose—that’s a good thing for Pinot—with highlights of red berry fruit. There’s a fine stream of acidity infused with racy flavours of red currant and cranberry melding with undertones of toast on the palate. The dry aftertaste dishes up lip-smacking red and black currant flavour underpinned by solid tannin. Great poured alongside smoked grilled duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Michel Delhommeau ‘Cuvée Harmonie’ Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine 2009
AOC Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine $12.95 (164624) 12.0% alcohol
The price-quality blance tips well in your favour; pick up an armful...right after I get mine. This is crisp and refreshing with a nose of lemon zest and hints of mineral. There’s a wash of crisp racy flavour that’s carried along on a spine of refreshing acidity—apple, pear and citrus interwoven with hints of peach and melon. Sip and savour on its own or pair with all manner of sea food, especially mussels, clams and freshly shucked briny oysters. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

***1/2 cellar
Château Chercy-Desqueyroux 2005

AOC Graves $23.95 (125518) 12.5% alcohol

Mixed spice and berry fruit on the nose, this delivers a solid core of flavour with sour cherry, black currant and mixed spice among them. It’s medium in weight and texture. It finishes with drying tannin and a layering of spiced plum compote and savoury herb. Drink 2012 to 2018 after a two-hour aeration/decant alongside grilled spiced pork chops. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Mas des Bressades Cabernet/Syrah 2008
Vins de Pays du Gard $18.95 (712174) 14.0% alcohol
An interesting and alluring nose of camphor, exotic Asian spice and berry fruit aromas are the harbinger of a densely flavoured Rosé with oodles of flavour—mixed dark berry fruit, dark toast and leafy notes. It’s mouth-watering racy on the mid-length finish layering on fine-grained tannin. Give this a go with a mixed green salad topped with crumbled grilled chèvre or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

***1/2 drink now
Château d’Aquéria Tavel Rosé 2010
AOC Tavel $18.95 (319368) 375 mL $9.95 (712000) 14.0% alcohol
Crisp and clean, it dishes up a mélange of red fruit flavours with all the usual suspects present—strawberry, rhubarb and cranberry—melding with floral notes and spice. This is light-bodied and lightly textured, full of good acidity with a brief aftertaste. The half-bottle size makes for a perfect aperitif for two. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Mas des Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition’ Rosé 2010
AOC Costières de Nîmes $13.95 (950576) 13.5% alcohol
This is a full-flavoured Rosé, heck, it’s a full-flavoured wine. It’s clean, crisp and refreshing ladling out a wide spectrum of flavour with ruby red grapefruit, sour cherry and freshly picked strawbery to the fore. The tangy finish layers on spice, red raspberry and a floral note. Perfect sipped on its own or paired with roast chicken or green salad and chèvre. Well made, well paced and well priced. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Luca Ferraris ‘Bric d’Bianc’ Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato 2009
DOC Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato $16.95 (214536) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic and enticing aromas bustle off this tangy nervy red—rose petals, sandalwood and dark toasty notes. There’s a serious wash of racy red berry fruit with cranberry and red currant predominant. It’s mid weight and finishes up dry and refreshing. Pour with spicy wings or pasta in spicy tomato sauce.

**** drink or cellar
Massucco Barbaresco 2006
DOCG Barbaresco $27.95 (214528) 14.0% alcohol
Mixed spice, lilac and dark berry fruit on the nose, this nicely built Nebbiolo dishes up a lovely stream of black currant, sour cherry and pomegranate gliding along on a spine of acidity and solid tannin underpinning. There’s a lengthy dry aftertaste with lovely nuances of cassis. Not for the faint of palate, give it a go in a couple of years or after a two-hour decant. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Cignomoro Primitivo di Manduria 2007
DOC Primitivo di Manduria $19.95 (211078) 15.5% alcohol
There are tobacco, aromatic bitters and smoke on the lifted involved nose presaging a straightforward and pleasant wash of sweet plum compote and ripe bramble berry mingling with nuances of spice and espresso roast. It finishes long and fruit-laden. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2007
DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano $29.95 (943670) 13.5% alcohol
Avignonesi is a premium producer of Vin Santo and have turned out a dazzling medium-bodied dry red here. Cedar, floral notes and berry fruit on the fragrant nose, it washes over the palate with rich and luscious layered flavour—red cherry, spice-infused black plum, cassis and juicy tangy Bing cherry. This is well structured with some complexity and a lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour—pick up a few for now and medium-term cellaring. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino 2004
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $49.95 (660746) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of match stick, dark plum and spice box aromas herald flavours of red currant and brambleberry infused with spice held in the grip of a solid tannin underpinning. It’s medium-full bodied with a good mouth feel and a dry long aftertaste. Drink 2014 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Luigi Righetti Campolieti Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2008 

DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $16.95 (695890) 13.0% alcohol 

Dark chocolate, camphor and raisin on the nose, it coats the palate with charm and flavour—ripe juicy black Bing cherry, kirsch liqueur and spice-infused black Damson plum. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with a mid-length lip-smacking finish that’s dry, crisp and fruity. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink now
Dehasa ‘Gago’ 2009
DO Toro $14.95 (173120) 14.5% alcohol
Toro’s a good place to shop for value reds, and that’s no bull. This is a rich crowd pleaser with oodles of fruit on the nose and palate—ripe blueberry, black currant and juicy spiced cherry. It’s balanced and mid weight with a generous mouth feel and lengthy aftertaste. One of those inconspicuous gems that tends to get overlooked; put a few in your cart as your reward for spotting it. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Vega ‘Escal’ 2006
DOCa Priorat $18.95 (210997) 14.5% alcohol
Vanilla and black currant on the nose, this is rich and luxurious on the palate with abundant layers of flavour—black juicy cherry, black currant and spice. Medium-full bodied and silky smooth on the palate, it finishes lengthy and delectable. There’s good value here and pairs well with steak or burgers. It’s a rock-solid 4 stars and very good value. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Rosé

**** drink now
Muga Rosé 2010
DOCa Rioja $12.95 (603795) 13.5% alcohol
Dry tangy and racy this sets up well with consistent, persistent aromas and flavours of strawberry-rhubarb pie, refreshing citrus, crisp red currant and hints of slate and floral notes. It’s mid-weight, lightly textured with a long, lip-smacking aftertaste of ruby red grapefruit. Well-priced, it sips well on its own or paired with pan-grilled salmon or mixed deli platter. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

****1/2 cellar
Osoyoos Larose ‘Le Grand Vin’ 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $45.00 (626325) 13.5% alcohol
This Merlot-predominant red blend will emerge like a chrysalis from its tannic shell in two or three years—tuck away a couple and enjoy the metamorphosis. Savory herbs, floral notes and dark berry fruit on the nose, it coats the palate and stains the teeth with dense and delectable racy cherry, black plum and mocha flavour. It’s medium-full bodied with a generous mouth feel and a firm tannin underpinning. (Vic Harradine)

New in LCBO Portfolio

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Red House Wine Cabernet-Shiraz 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (219030) 13.0% alcohol
Spice and red berry fruit aromas dominate this value-packed blend. There are oodles of spicy red currant and cherry/berry flavours that persist through the lengthy aftertaste. This is a versatile red blend—sip on its own or pair with burgers, pasta in meat sauce or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
White House Wine Riesling-Pinot Grigio 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (219022) 12.0% alcohol
Lively and refreshing, this is perfect poured as an aperitif or paired with lighter-styled appetizers. Exotic spice, honeyed citrus and tropical fruit aromas give way to a mouthful of tangy lemon-lime and spice that dance over the palate and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink now
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Canadian Oak’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 13.0% alcohol
You have to admire the winemaker who fashioned this gem – Bravo! Hand picked, hand sorted and fermented with wild yeasts, this opens with a gorgeous nose of vanilla, spice and bergamot. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with a silky smooth mouth feel. Flavours of caramel, apple pie and kitchen spice wash through the crisp and refreshing citrus-laced finish. Available by the case for office or home delivery ordered directly from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)

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Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 13.0% alcohol
Spice and field berry fruit on the nose, this is full of nerve and verve and delightful flavour—juicy red cherry, strawberry and spice. It has silky smooth texture with medium weight and a persistent and focused stream of crisp refreshing and lip-smacking flavour. Each sip is as good or better as the one before. Available by the case for office or home delivery ordered directly from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Featherstone Estate Winery Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $29.95 11.5% alcohol
Savory and pomegranate aromas mingling with subtle toasty aromas presage a stunning juicy mouthful of ripe red currant and cranberry underpinned by a ripe tannin structure. It finishes dry and racy with good mouth-watering acidity. Lovely sipped on its own, it’s brilliant with food, especially smoked duck breasts or slow-roasted pork. Available by the case for office or home delivery ordered directly from Featherstone. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan