Winecurrent

April 16, 2011 Vintages Release

The ‘2011 Riesling Experience’ – will be held June 9 and 10 at Brock University, St. Catherines, Ontario showcasing international speakers, tutored tastings, panel discussions and vineyard visits. Read More at rieslingexperience.com.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • Carrick Pinot Noir – rings the 5-star bell and it’s not the first time this Kiwi Pinot has gained high kudos in winecurrent; the 2006 earned 4 ½ stars. Don’t pass this one up!
  • Fielding’s ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay – Winemaker Richie Roberts wielded his magic on this gem! It’s from one of Niagara’s premium family-owned wineries, offers great value at $15.95 and is worth a multiple buy.
  • Finding Waldo – it’s $17.95 and earned 4 stars. This IGT Salento Rosso from Apulia, Italy and the 2004 vintage is still drinking well with a few good years remaining.
  • Passover – begins April 19. The LCBO is releasing 110 kosher-for-Passover products. Read more…
This winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature from the Vintages Release catalogue on wines from New Zealand followed by the Main Release.

New Zealand Feature

**** drink or cellar
Ant Moore Pinot Noir 2009
Central Otaga, South Island $44.95 (179754) 13.5% alcohol
Dry, medium bodied, this is a fine pale crimson wine with attractive floral notes, an earthy undertone and aromas of candied cherry and sweet spice. Crisp acidity and fine tannins underpin flavourful red fruit—cherry, cranberry and pomegranate—spice and white pepper. Well-integrated oak offers delicate notes of toast on the bright fresh finish. Enjoy with pork tenderloin wrapped in a rosemary mustard crust, or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

***** drink or cellar
Carrick Pinot Noir 2007
Central Otago, South Island $34.95 (919837) 13.5% alcohol
A fabulous semi-opaque ruby wine, this offers a tapestry of aromas and flavours—floral, mineral, sweet cherry and cinnamon toast on the nose. Dry and silky textured, it’s an über-approachable complex gem. The medium weight, fine tannin and vibrant acidity are perfectly balanced with tangy red fruit—cherry, raspberry and cranberry—along with soft spicy notes lingering on the persistent finish. A wine to savour now or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Eradus Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (225557) 13.5% alcohol
This is a classic New Zealand SB, it’s pale yellow-green, with an array of aromas—tropical fruit, pungent green herbaceous notes, asparagus and citrus. Dry and medium bodied, there’s significant weight on the palate coupled with a replay of tropical fruit and persistent herbal notes. Lively acidity balances sweet fruit and herbal tones carrying the flavours through the refreshing finish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (009167) 13.5% alcohol
Brilliant and straw colored, this wine delivers heady herbaceous, citrus and tropical fruit aromas. There’s abundant sweet fruit—fresh peach and mango—and a silky texture coupled with vibrant acidity in a racy dash of lemon-lime. There’s an underlying minerality with a persistent herbaceous note remaining in evidence on the clean lengthy finish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (735043) 13.5% alcohol
A winecurrent perennial favourite, it delivers a racy pungent nose of passion fruit and grassy nettle before settling into zesty and focused flavours on the palate—sharp gooseberry, white grapefruit rind and ripe lemon. It’s medium bodied and richly textured—there’s 5% Semillon blended in and it was aged briefly in old oak barrels—sporting a laser-like citrus finish so typical of the region. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Wither Hills Pinot Gris 2010
Wairau Valley, Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (214999) 14.0% alcohol
This lovely wine displays a faint peach tone portending the rich fruitiness on the nose and palate. Lifted aromas of ripe pear, stone fruit, and an elusive biscuit note charm and delight. Dry, medium bodied, the acidity is lively while luscious sweet orchard fruit washes across the palate in waves. Sweet notes of lime and a hint of warmth grace the lengthy fruit-filled finish. Just wonderful, have a sip on its own or sample it with soft cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Lone Kauri ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2009
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (214858) 13.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, expect earthy, beetroot and red cherry aromas on the nose of this dry, perky light-medium-bodied Pinot. There are loads of red fruit—cherry, raspberry and cranberry—mingling with vibrant acidity and a defined earthy undertone. The finish is refreshing and tangy. Pour with grilled salmon garnished with a raspberry coulis. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Te Awa Cabernet/Merlot 2007
Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, North Island $19.95 (95984) 14.5% alcohol
Absolutely opaque and inky, this wine is fruity and intense on the nose—sweet cassis and black plum to the fore—with subtle spice and a mineral note. Dry, full bodied and velvety, the firm tannin and fine acidity complement the deep concentrated dark fruit, spice and toasty notes that characterize the mid-length finish. Enjoy with grilled lamb now, or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Kim Crawford Merlot 2009
Hawkes Bay, North Island $19.95 (680967) 14.0% alcohol
Matured in a mixture of barrel and tank for 9 months before blending, this violet-hued wine displays rich aromas of plum, blackberry and spice. Smooth in texture, dry and medium bodied, the palate is all about ripe dark fruit, ripe tannins and nicely balanced acidity. A very approachable wine, there are lovely notes of toasty oak on the medium-length finish. Pair it with your choice of barbequed red meat. It earns its final half star for good value. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

***1/2 drink now
Messias Late Bottled Vintage Port 2005
DOC Douro $16.95 (140863) 19.5% alcohol
A shade of well-polished mahogany, this Port delivers enticing aromas of dried fruits, plums, spicy fruit cake and chocolate-coated cherries. Dry, warm and medium-full bodied, it’s intensely flavoured with dark and dried fruits reappearing on the peppery palate framed by a warm smooth texture. Good value, this fortified red pairs well with strong cheese, chocolate or nuts. (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Poderi Elia Moscato d’Asti 2009
DOCG Moscato d’Asti $15.95 (211664) 5.5% alcohol
Delicacy and finesse characterize this sweet straw-colored fizz. Lovely aromas of honeysuckle, sweet orchard and stone fruit presage the replay of lifted fruit flavours with a dash of key lime—all wrapped in a gentle mousse. Off dry, the acidity is gentle and the finish is soft and fruity. Very low alcohol, this is a great wine to sip on its own after a generous meal or pour alongside peach and blueberry galette. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Raventós I Blanc ‘l‘Hereu Reserva Brut’ Cava 2007
Sant Sadurní d’Anoia $19.95 (221796) 12.0% alcohol
One of the pre-eminent Cava producers in the Penedès, Raventós offers a fine sparkling wine with frothy, creamy mousse, orchard fruit and lemon pie on the nose and bright notes of fresh citrus, green plum and a slightly herbal vegetal note on the palate. The texture’s refreshing, the acidity crisp and the mid-length finish lively. Delightful on its own or a worthy match with seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (80234) 11.0% alcohol
Lovely aromas of stone fruit, tangerine and lemon curd delight. Sweetly fruity, the flavours are peach, pear and sweet apple, with an underlying backbone of fresh acidity for balance. Practicing sustainable agriculture, Featherstone have sheep roam the vineyards, trimming vine leaves prior to veraison, creating conditions for the optimal ripeness seen in this wine. Displaying great potential of the vintage, it’s a flavourful and well-balanced Riesling with a lingering compelling finish. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fielding Estate Winery ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (164491) 12.5% alcohol
Well paced, well made and well priced—it gained its final half star on value. There are aromas and flavours galore with ripe Bosc pear, lemon-lime citrus and an underlying sense of slate and earthy tones. Mid weight and nicely textured, it keeps its focus throughout the crisp and refreshing finish. Sip on its own or pair with linguine con vongole. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Malivoire Gewürztraminer 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench $24.95 (542522) 12.5% alcohol
Straw with heady aromatics of lychee, rose, spice and stone fruit, this delightful wine is just off-dry, medium bodied, and silky in texture. The flavours of spice and sweet ripe fruit are focused and consistent throughout with lively citrusy acidity adding to the tangy mid-length finish A fine choice for ham garnished with cloves. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Le Clos Jordanne ‘La Petite Colline’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Twenty Mile Bench $45.00 (33944) 12.5% alcohol
Pale brick and fragrant on the nose, the aromas are floral, red fruit, hints of spice and underlying earth notes. Dry and light-medium weight, it displays youthful structure and vibrant acidity. The flavours are focused—pie cherry, raspberry and cranberry. Restrained and crisp in texture, the wine will benefit from cellaring or could be paired now with grilled root vegetables or cassoulet. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Palatine Hills ‘Proprietor’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $19.95 (121699) 12.8% alcohol
Smooth, dry, medium-full bodied, this is a great exemplar of the heralded 2007 vintage. Deep ruby in tone, the appealing aromas are dark berries, plum, a slight herbal note and some hints of vanilla and spice. Ripe tannin and fresh acidity support loads of ripe dark berry fruit, sweet herbs and spice—bay leaves and mint. Well integrated and robust, this is a delicious and wonderfully suave wine. Enjoy it with stews and full-flavoured meat dishes now or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Rosé

**** drink now
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Rosé 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (172643) 12.0% alcohol
It’s spring, bring on the rosé! A pretty salmon pink, this blend of Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot delivers lovely aromas of sweet field berries and maraschino cherry. Dry and light-medium bodied, delicious summer berries unfold on the palate—sun-ripened strawberry and fresh raspberry—with the zing of red rhubarb. Tangy acidity refreshes the palate and carries the fruit through the mid-length finish. A great wine to sip on the deck or pair with grilled trout or smoked salmon with goat cheese and capers. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

**** drink now
Grove Street Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Sonoma County $15.00 (161190) 15.4% alcohol
Nicely balanced, approachable, and great value, this Cabernet is deeply colored and bursting with aromas of dark berry fruit, plum, cedar, vanilla and a hint of herbs. Medium-full bodied, the tannin’s ripe, the acidity fine and the flavours equally striking—mint, dark berry fruit and vanilla. Delectable notes of dark toast persist on the dry finish. Structured and approachable, this is a very appealing wine, meriting an extra half star for value. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Ironstone ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2009
Lodi $16.95 (951889) 14.5% alcohol
Dark ruby-hued, this is an easy-drinking wine with attractive aromas and flavours of sweet ripe red and black berries plus a whiff of eucalyptus tickling the nose. It’s nicely balanced with fresh acidity, soft ripe tannin and well-integrated oak. An intensely flavourful Zin; savour with friends gathered round the barbeque. (Susan Desjardins)

Washington State: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Hogue ‘Reserve’ Merlot 2006
Wahluke Slope $19.95 (220491) 15.4% alcohol
Ruby-toned, this gem marries robustness and complexity. Enjoy engaging aromas of plum, black cherry, roasted herbs and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied and structured, the fine acidity and perceptible tannin frame a wine that’s pleasantly warm and smooth on the palate. The intense black fruit displays depth and concentration, attractive notes of white pepper, vanilla and sweet spice rounding out the flavour profile. There are intriguing notes of roasted red pepper on the lengthy drying finish. Definitely a wine with the value equation in your favour, it will cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Luigi Bosca ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza $17.95 (128629) 14.0% alcohol
From a top-drawer producer and just a tick off 5 stars, it offers good value, to boot. As good as it is now, the deft balance and chewy tannin indicates it’ll reward short term cellaring. Enticing aromas—dark berry fruit, spice box and earthy notes—precede a shower of glorious rich dark flavour—black currant, kirsch liqueur and savoury notes fused with bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured and full of promise. Drink now to 2017—decant and pour with rare-grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Casas del Bosque ‘Reserva’ Carmenère 2009
Rapel Valley $13.95 (205872) 13.5% alcohol
Inky purple, this is a straightforward, intensely flavoured wine. Minty floral notes waft from the glass overlaying aromas of dark berry fruit and a whiff of spice. Minty notes reappears on the medium-weight palate, the dark fruit framed by soft tannin, fresh acidity and dark toasty notes that garnish the mid-length dry finish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Valdivieso ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Maipo Valley $16.95 (32110) 13.5% alcohol
Deep purple and opaque, here’s an attractive crowd-pleasing wine with lovely aromas of cassis, cedar and herbs—mint in particular. The rich ripe flavours are consistent on the mid-weight palate, all in lovely balance with ripe tannin and fresh acidity. Easy on the budget and easy-drinking, it offers a lingering finish that brings out notes of dark toasty oak. Give it a go with grilled pepper steak. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: White Wine

**** drink now
Dornier ‘Donatus’ White 2009
WO Western Cape $18.95 (597278) 13.5% alcohol
This blend of Chenin Blanc and Semillon is straw coloured with a hint of green in the glass. It delivers delicious aromas of pear, ripe apple with a hint of apricot and lime. Dry, silky smooth and medium bodied, the well-integrated oak is subtle, creating a canvas for the luscious orchard fruit. A backbone of lively acidity carries the ripe fruit and zesty lime through a mouth-filling satisfying finish. Delicious and definitely a good pairing with ham or turkey. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Pierre Sparr ‘Réserve’ Gewürztraminer 2008
AOC Alsace $17.95 (747600) 13.5% alcohol
With its golden hue and viscous quality, this delivers intense and classic aromas of rose water, lychee nut and sweet tropical fruits. There’s a well-balanced ratio of acidity to fruit as well as some refreshing slightly bitter note. The finish is long and lingering with all components in delightful equilibrium. At this price, one bottle may not be enough. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de la Casenove ‘La Garrigue’ 2006
Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $17.95 (956888) 14.5% alcohol
This medium-bodied blend of Syrah and Grenache offers structure and approachability. The nose is complex—ripe berry fruit, earthy and spicy floral notes, grilled herbs and an almost flinty character. The depth of fruit—raspberry, black berry and cherry—is supported by dusty tannin and livened with vibrant acidity. Some spicy, herbal, toasty notes persist on the lengthy dry finish. Easy on the pocketbook, enjoy it with rare roast beef now or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Cave de Rasteau ‘La Domelière’ Rasteau Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2009
AOC Rasteau Côtes du Rhône-Villages $15.00 (222927) 14.5% alcohol
In 2010, Rasteau gained full AOC status—scoop up a few while it’s still a bargain! This medium-bodied blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre is sweet and spicy with lovely aromas of dark fruit and licorice on the nose. Dry and silky textured, it’s structured and fruit-filled with dark berries, herbs and licorice notes riding a wave of fresh acidity braced with resolving tannin. Nicely balanced and showcasing heft and texture on the palate, pour with pasta in meat-based sauce or rich beef stir fry. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Villa Matilde ‘Rocca dei Leoni’ Aglianico 2007
IGT Campania $19.95 (165035) 13.0% alcohol
Intense in color, aroma and flavour, here’s a savoury wine with powerful earthy, underbrush floral and red and black berry aromas. Medium-full bodied and structured, fresh acidity and firm drying tannin are a fine counterpoint to the depth of berry and plum fruit flavour. Tantalizing notes of licorice and espresso roast carry through the extended dry fruit-filled finish. Cellar medium term or serve with grilled lamb or your favourite red meat dish. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ca’del Baio ‘Asili’ Barbaresco 2007
DOCG Barbaresco $44.95 (213066) 14.0% alcohol
A semi-transparent garnet, this is a stunning wine displaying refined aromas of ripe berry fruit and spiced floral notes. Dry, silky in texture and firm in structure, there’s lively acidity and fresh flavours of bright raspberry and black cherry dressed with notes of sweet spice and white pepper. There’s a gentle pull of tannin on the lengthy finish with notes of cocoa mingling with fresh fruit. Elegant, this is a wine designed for long-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Apollonio ‘Valle Cupa’ 2004
IGT Salento Rosso $17.95 (84046) 14.5% alcohol
This award-winning unfiltered red blend—Primitivo and Negroamaro—is aged in barrel twelve months and held in bottle a further year. Opaque and inky, it entices with aromas of vanilla, leather, earth and dark fruit. Dry, medium bodied and smooth on the palate, it’s intensely flavourful proffering dark fruit, earthy notes, pepper and spice. Consistent, persistent and well-balanced throughout, the tannins are perceptible, the acidity appropriate and the long lasting finish manifests notes of espresso roast. It’s a great match with herbed roast leg of lamb. Terrific value—seven years old and counting—it’ll cellar a few more years. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Pichierri ‘Tradizione del Nonno’ Primitivo di Manduria 2007
DOC Manduria $23.95 (718130) 16.0% alcohol
This showcases the character of a fortified red. It’s a monumental mouthful made following traditional methods. Mahogany in tone, there are aromas of dried fruits, dark berries, plums and chocolate toffee. Dry, full bodied and round, it delivers port-like flavours—dried fruit, prunes, toasted nuts, sweet spice, soft acidity and tannin hovering in the background. Warm, plush and lengthy on the finish, sip after dinner with a wedge of aged Pecorino. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Fattoria ‘La Ripa Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $18.95 (984401) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit, exotic spice and floral notes stream from the glass while the lively flavours are in the red berry and cherry zones. This lives up to its breeding providing good value as well. It’s medium weight and framed by moderating acidity, ripe tannin and a lingering well-integrated finish. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tenuta Friggiali Brunello di Montalcino 2004
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $46.95 (211631) 13.5% alcohol
Deep ruby with a hint of brick, this is a fascinating red with complexity and depth. On the nose, there are floral, earthy and red berry aromas with an elusive underlying note of leather. Dry and medium weight, the tannin’s chalky, the acidity energetic and the flavours of red cherries and berries are powerful. The underlying earthiness persists through the lengthy aftertaste with red fruit flowing throughout melding with notes of toasty oak. Still a bit austere—decant four hours and pour with beef tagliata or cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Falesco Vitiano 2008
IGT Umbria $15.95 (950204) 13.5% alcohol
This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese is a well-crafted, value-laden gem with great impact on the palate. On the nose, it’s sweet ripe fruit and spice with a hint of red licorice. The tannin’s firm, acidity crisp and there are layered flavours of toasty oak, raspberry, blackberry and black cherry mingling with exotic spice on the medium-bodied palate. The dry finish delights with lingering notes of cocoa. A few bottles are in order. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Bodegas Ontañón ‘Reserva’ 2004
DOCa Rioja $24.95 (725895) 13.0% alcohol
This red blend—95% Tempranillo with the balance Graciano—dishes out an astounding mouthful of fruit flavour with sweet black raspberry and spiced black plum predominant. It’s beautifully textured, medium bodied and showcases a well-sculpted, well-balanced lingering finish delivering ripe supple tannin and moderating mouth-watering tanginess mingling with milk chocolate-dipped cherries. There’s considerable tannin, portending a drinking window 2011 to 2016. Pour alongside a thick hunk of rib eye steak grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan