Winecurrent

March 19, 2011 Vintages Release

California Wine Fair! It’s the hottest ticket in town – year after year. 100+ California wineries pouring 300+ wines with light hors d’oeuvres, all for one admission price! Many winery principals present. No tickets sold at door. Book yours now; the ‘SOLD OUT’ sign appears annually. 


Here are cities where you can attend – Toronto (April 4), Ottawa (April 6), Montreal (April 7), Québec City (April 8) and Halifax (May 12). 


To order tickets by mail or on-line visit California Wines in Canada. 


Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include: 

  • Saving the best for last – Not Amarone, but wine re-fermented and re-passed (Ripasso) on Amarone pomace—pulp, skins and seeds. It’s a very affordable alternative and this one’s worth a try. Pasqua ‘Black Label’ Ripasso @ $18.95, the final review of the release.
  • Get outside your comfort zone – this Heredade Penedo Gordo red sports an unusual grape blend from Alentejo [Allen tay szho], one of Portugal’s better wine regions. It’s reviewed in the Spain, Portugal feature, rated four stars by Susan and only $13.95.
  • Finding Waldo – There are two luscious reds reviewed earning 4 ½ stars for only $17.95

This winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature from the Vintages Release catalogue on wines from Spain and Portugal followed by the Main Release.

Spain and Portugal Feature

Portugal

**** drink now
Cistus Reserva 2007
DOC Douro $18.95 (145052) 14.5% alcohol
This is old-vines blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional was aged 15 months in French, American and Hungarian oak. Enjoy lifted aromas of sun-ripened berries, plums and notes of toffee and licorice. Approachable yet structured, harmonious and flavourful, this is a dry, delectable, medium-bodied wine displaying sweet, ripe berry fruit, spice box and vanilla. Delightful notes of sweet cocoa and toast ripple through the fruity finish. To be savored with hard cheese or robust, meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Heredade Penedo Gordo Vinho Tinto 2008
DOC Alentejo $ 13.95 (218339) 13.5% alcohol
Looking for something unusual? Try this blend of Tempranillo, Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet spending a bare 4 months in oak. Alluring aromas of sweet, slightly candied fruit meld with notes of sweet spice and campfire smoke. This is a smooth, approachable red that’s dry and medium bodied offering depth of fruit flavours that are nicely balanced with appropriate tannin and acidity. It finishes with loads of fruit and toasty, spicy notes. There’s an extra half star here for value. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Quinta Nova Pomares 2008
DOC Douro $16.95 (214007) 13.5% alcohol
This is award-winning red is a blend of the principal grapes used in Port wine. Deeply hued, it appeals with aromas of sandalwood, sweet spice, bright berry and pit fruit. It’s dry, medium weight and well structured with firm tannin and good presence on the palate. Tangy, peppery notes complement the cherry/berry fruit on the aftertaste. Enjoy it now with herbed, roast pork loin, or cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Quinta di Romaneira Late Bottled Vintage Port 2004
DOC Douro $19.95 (196758) 19.5% alcohol
Firm, ripe and structured, there are aromas and flavours of sweet, dried fruits—cherries, blueberries, black plums—and roast almonds. There’s balance, good weight and adequate acidity paired with rich fruit flavours. Look for warm, toasty notes and sweet toffee on the mouth-coating finish. This unfiltered Port will age 5-7 more years or savour now, after a two hour decant, with a pecan tart. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain

**** drink now
Leira Albariño 2009
DO Rías Baixas, Spain $16.95 (115816) 13.0% alcohol
A pale, golden-green gem, this Spanish-northwest varietal displays lovely fragrance—floral, citrus, mineral, and nuances of sweet stone fruit. Sweet stone fruit and citrus predominate on entry with the soft, silky texture in counterpoint to racy acidity. Medium weight and tangy, the lasting, dry aftertaste offers a faint, refreshing note of pithy citrus rind. Enjoy it with paella. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Finca Sobreña Crianza 2007
DO Toro $17.95 (40360) 14.0% alcohol
This Tempranillo offers lifted aromas of ripe berry fruit, spicy floral notes and hints of sweet oak; it was aged in American oak. Smooth and densely fruity on entry, it expands in a wave across the palate, richly fruity, spicy and toasty. Medium-full bodied and nicely textured, there’s a firm structure underpinning the sweet, ripe fruit. The aftertaste is dry with notes of char lingering. It’s very attractive and impressive at this price. Enjoy with braised, red meats or age medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Eternum Viti 2008
DO Toro $18.95 (210963) 14.0% alcohol
This inky-purple Tinto de Toro offers elusive earthy, meaty aromas wafting over dark sun-ripened fruit. Medium-full bodied and firmly structured, the earthy notes and ripe, dark berry and plum fruit replay on the palate. The ripe flavours are balanced with fruity acidity and perceptible tannin, creating an appealing impactful wine. The dry aftertaste is lengthy with attractive notes of espresso and spice. Enjoy with grilled steak or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Beronia Viura 2009
DOCa Rioja $13.95 (190801) 12.5% alcohol
This dry, light-medium bodied, refreshing white tantalizes with lovely floral, citrus and orchard fruit aromas. On the palate, it’s lively and fruity—pear, green apple and citrus predominate—with a tangy, refreshing acidity and a hint of spice. It finishes mouthwatering and vibrant—pour as an appetizer or enjoy with seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
El Coto Crianza 2006
DOCa Rioja $14.95 (190504) 13.0% alcohol
This pale-ruby Tempranillo was aged 12 months in new oak and is strikingly scented with sweet spicy oak, cedar, vanilla and ripe berry fruit. It’s medium-full bodied, firmly structured and sports a lovely texture. On the palate, the raspberry and black cherry fruit is lifted with notes of white pepper and toasty oak persisting through the dry finish. Bring on the barbeque! (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Niagara Peninsula: White Wine

**** drink now
Cave Spring Cellars Chardonnay Musqué 2008 

VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (246579) 13.0% alcohol 

There are lifted aromas of exotic spice, lively citrus and sprigs of sweet savoury notes on the nose of this smooth and mellow sipper. The palate’s treated to a cornucopia of refreshing flavours with spiced apple, pear and peel marmalade gliding along on a bed of lemon-lime tang. It’s light-medium bodied with good mouth feel and a refreshing mid-length finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
East Dell ‘Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (222174) 12.5% alcohol 

This is appealing, fresh and vibrant offering lifted aromas of citrus, tree fruit, tropical notes and a whiff of nettle. Smooth in texture with sweet, ripe fruit on entry, it’s an invigorating mouthful of tangy acidity with lively citrus, gooseberry and tree fruit flavours to the fore. There’s a lingering, lively, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with smoked fish or a green salad garnished with goat cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

Niagara Peninsula: Red Wine

**** drink now
Calamus ‘Reserve’ Red 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.20 (223990) 12.7% alcohol 

This red blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah is from the acclaimed 2007 vintage and was aged 30 months in French oak. It’s intensely hued with attractive aromas of smoky toast, vanilla, dark fruit and herbal notes. The generous texture and supple tannin complement fresh acidity and well-integrated oak—all a fine match for the vibrant, fruit flavours of black cherry and raspberry. Nuances of spice, toast and chocolate garnish the aftertaste. Great value, pour alongside veal chops with mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series - Montague Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Four Mile Creek $24.95 (997353) 13.0% alcohol
This is an impressive well-crafted wine with fabulous impact on the nose and palate—a fine expression of the 2007 vintage. The aromas are alluring and complex—earth, spice and ripe cherry/berry fruit. Dry, medium bodied, and silky smooth in texture, the tannin’s ripe and the acidity racy. The intense fruit replays and persists through the lingering finish with notes of sweet spice, toast, and the subtle presence of earthiness. Savour a glass now or cellar short term—pair with mushroom risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Kacaba ‘Proprietor’s Blend’ Cabernet 2005
VQA Niagara Escarpment $14.95 (223974) 13.0% alcohol
This inky blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah offers aromas of bell pepper, smoky toast, earth, and berry fruit. Medium bodied with a firm, smooth texture, the wine is fresh with vibrant fruit—raspberry and black berry to the fore. Underlying notes of herbs and bell pepper create interest and complexity. Enjoy this wine with a chicken and spicy sausage casserole. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Malivoire ‘Albert’s Honour - Old Vines Foch’ 2009
VQA Ontario $19.95(551036) 12.0% alcohol
Opaque and purple hued, this Marechal Foch offers a nose of dark fruit, smoke and black licorice. Medium weight and generously textured, there’s fresh acidity, soft tannin and deep, fruit flavour—raspberry and bramble berry. That elusive smoky note persists on the dry, racy, mid-length finish. Pour alongside venison in red wine sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mission Hill ‘Quatrain’ 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $44.95 (218636) 13.0% alcohol
Named due to its blend of four varietals—Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon—this is a dry, powerful, full-bodied blend. The grapes were handpicked and sorted then fermented and aged in French oak. Densely coloured, almost black, there’s great depth and complexity in aroma and flavour—cassis, blackberry, plum and sweet spice. It melds together with subtlety and finesse. The well-integrated tannin and subtle acidity balance the intense fruit complemented by a smooth, velvety texture. Savoury notes of dark toast and chocolate complement the dazzling fruit flavour on the lengthy aftertaste. (Susan Desjardins).

California: Red Wine

****1/2 cellar
Beringer ‘Bancroft Ranch Single Vineyard’ Merlot 2005
Howell Mountain, Napa Valley $69.95 (340497) 14.8% alcohol
Dry, robust and full bodied, this is a complex red that’s highly aromatic and loaded with flavour. Dark, rich, ripe fruit, clove, cinnamon, cedar and vanilla gush from the glass. On the palate, it’s warm, structured and intensely flavoured—black berry and plum, dark chocolate and toast predominate. It’s in need of cellaring; the tannins are still grippy. If you can’t wait, decant for three hours and serve with grilled-rare roast lamb or roast prime rib. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Beringer Founders’ Estate Syrah 2009
California $19.95 (919654) 13.9% alcohol
This inky purple, fruit-forward Syrah offers lovely spicy, floral aromas mingling with sweet, dark ripe fruit and nuances of licorice. The fruit’s framed by ripe tannin and fresh acidity. It’s medium-bodied with good texture. Dark berries and plum on the palate, there’s tang, white pepper, cocoa and spice on the mid-length, dry aftertaste. Enjoy it with saucy ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Alexander Valley $21.95 (343467) 13.5% alcohol
This is a very attractive, smoothly textured Cab with a lovely complement of classic aromas—minty herbal notes, cassis, blackberry, cedar and vanilla. Dry and medium-full bodied, the alluring aromas replay on the palate supported by supple tannin and fresh fruity acidity. It’s well balanced with subtle, sweet herbal notes persisting on the finish. (Susan Desjardins)

***** drink or cellar
Jonata Todos 2006
Santa Ynez Valley $59.95 (218941) 15.2% alcohol
This big wine is intensely aromatic and complex with fragrant aromas of rich, ripe dark fruit, vanilla and a slightly smoky, herbal note. It’s an unusual blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese with small quantities of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Viognier. Dry and robustly fruity, it’s full bodied with a velvety texture, ripe tannin and soft acidity coupled with deft balance. A heady wine, the extended aftertaste offers rich notes of dark chocolate and toast. Savour with a fine aged cheese or cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)

***** drink or cellar
Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Napa Valley $79.95 (119065) 14.7% alcohol
This inky red offers focused, interesting aromas—cassis, subtle autumnal notes and a hint of vanilla. Dry and medium-full bodied, the texture is velvety, the tannins well integrated and the wine in beautiful balance and harmony. The complex palate enchants with concentrated ripe, dark berry fruit, mint, spice box and earth along with hints of smoky toast on the lengthy, warm aftertaste. It’s a wine to sip now and up to 2021. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Santa Barbara Wine Company Pinot Noir 2009
Santa Barbara County $19.95 (194332) 14.5% alcohol
Vibrant ruby in the glass, this lovely Pinot is also vibrant on the nose with aromas of cherry, berries and sweet spice along with earthy notes. Nicely balanced, it’s medium weight with good texture, soft tannin and a replay of the bright cherry/berry fruit on the palate. The finish is lengthy and refreshing recapturing the aromatic spice and offering a light toasty note. There’s an extra half star here for value. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Gougenheim Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza $13.00 (194290) 13.5% alcohol
A pretty ruby hue, this is a straightforward Cabernet with consistent aromas and flavours—sweet sun-ripened berries, herbal undertones and hints of toast. Dry and supple in texture, the well integrated tannin and fresh acidity balance the vivid cherry/berry fruit that carry through the mid-length finish mingling with notes of herbs and toast. Good value and a nice match to grilled sausages or meatloaf. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Altaïr ‘Sideral’ 2005
Rapel Valley $24.95 (660837) 14.5% alcohol
This opaque, alluring gem is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (principally) and Carmenère. On the nose, there’s brambly fruit, attractive autumnal notes and sweet herbs. Medium-full bodied, the wine is laden with dark fruit, spice, dark toast and chocolate. The fruit, pliant tannins and appropriate acidity are in balance. Intense, concentrated fruit washes across the palate with those notes of dark toast and chocolate lingering on the dry finish. Enjoy it now with full-flavoured red meats or cellar mid term. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
In Situ ‘Winemaker’s Selection’ Carmenère 2008
Aconcagua Valley $12.95 (37952) 14.5% alcohol
Striking, pungent mint and herbal notes overlain on ripe berry fruit aromas leap from the glass. Dry and medium-full bodied, it offers soft texture along with fresh acidity redolent of red field berries. The ripe fruit predominates on the palate garnished with notes of mint, herbs and bell pepper that carry through the dry finish. This is a flavourful, approachable, easy-drinking wine. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink now
Grant Burge ‘Barossa Vines’ Shiraz 2009
Barossa $16.95 (738567) 14.5% alcohol
This is a tasty, generous Shiraz with dark fruit to the fore on the nose and palate,. Dark berry and black plum aromas are layered with notes of smoke, spice and pepper. Balance reigns—it’s medium-bodied, the texture silky, the flavour fruit-forward, the tannins supple and the alcohol’s in check. The intense, focused, dark fruit flavour and tantalizing notes of dark chocolate linger on the warm, dry finish. Great for pouring with grilled, red meat hot off the barbie. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Fetish Wine ‘The Watcher’ 2008
Barossa Valley $19.95 (219196) 14.5% alcohol
This is an inky wine that’s dry and fruity and loaded with spice and dark berry fruit– blueberry and blackberry. Mid-weight, soft in texture and generous on the palate, the flavours are reminiscent of luscious jams—blackberry and raspberry—yet it displays good balance. There’s a dollop of cassis, pepper and toast layered on the rich fruity finish. This is an appealing, flavourful wine that will cellar a few years. (Susan Desjardins).

New Zealand: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Lone Kauri ‘Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Marlborough $14.95 (138974) 13.0% alcohol
Pale-green-straw hued and classically pungent, the lifted nose offers aromas of green fruit, a vegetal nuance reminiscent of capers and a whiff of bright tropical fruit. There’s great balance with green apple, citrus and grassy herbal flavour riding a racy seam of acidity. The lengthy finish is vibrant and mouthwateringly fresh. Enjoy with a classic match, such as chicken salad garnished with goat cheese and nuts. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Château Bel Air 2008
AOC Haut-Médoc $16.95 (199042) 13.0% alcohol
This dry, medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is ruby coloured and vibrant with aromas of berry fruit and subtle hints of vanilla and herbs on the nose. On the palate, the vivid raspberry and blackberry fruit replays, interlaced with herbal, autumnal notes. The texture is tangy, the tannin somewhat chalky and the aftertaste bright with tasty fruit and appealing toasty notes. It gains an extra half star for value. Enjoy it with rare meats or cellar mid-term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Château de Fontenille 2008
AOC Bordeaux $14.95 (199109) 13.0% alcohol
This dark-ruby, award-winning blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon abounds with tasty black berry, plum, herb and mineral aromas. Dry and medium weight, it’s well structured with firm tannin, bright acidity and lively dark fruit flavour replaying on the palate. Appealing notes of dark chocolate, spice and toast linger on the aftertaste. It’s an attractive value that’s ideally paired with red meat. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Perrin & Fils ‘Les Cornuds’ Vinsobre2008
AOC Vinsobres $17.95 (566844) 14.0% alcohol
A blend of Syrah and Grenache, with only a portion aged in French oak, it’s retained its bright fruit character. Intense on the nose and complex on the palate, the aromas and flavours are sweet dark fruit, exotic spice, garrigue and a nuance of licorice. Medium bodied, deftly balanced and nicely structured, this is a compelling flavourful wine that is dry and fresh right through the lengthy finish. The price-quality ratio is very compelling. (Susan Desjardins

Germany: White Wine

**** drink now
Lingenfelder ‘Bird Label’ Riesling 2009
QbA Germany $13.95 (568634) 10.0% alcohol
From a consistent producer with reliably delicious wines, this Riesling is just off-dry and fragrant with floral, ripe tree fruit and lemon/lime aromas. Fresh and bright with mineral undertones, it has the juicy flavours of a bowl of sliced stone fruit under a splash of citrus. Nicely balanced, appealingly fruity and gulp-able, it’s a great pour on its own or paired with lightly spiced dishes. It earns its final half star on value. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Colmello di Grotta Pinot Grigio 2009
DOC Isonzo del Friuli $14.95 (206797) 13.5% alcohol
Pale straw, this northern Italian gem proffers alluring aromas and flavours of tree fruit—pear, apple, a hint of apricot—and an elusive earthy undertone. Medium bodied and approachable, it’s dry, supple and fresh on the palate. Enjoyable and a good choice for salads or light fare. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

**** cellar
Brezza Barolo 2006
DOCG Barolo $37.95 (711788) 14.0% alcohol
Pale mahogany, this young Barolo displays attractive and focused aromas—spicy floral and red fruit. Dry, medium weight and firm in structure, the tannins are dusty, the acidity bright and the berry fruit—raspberry, currant and pomegranate—are underlain with a fine minerality. The mid-length finish offers a whiff of white pepper and toast. Somewhat austere now, cellar it a minimum of three years. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gaja ‘Sito Moresco’ 2008
DOC Langhe $53.95 (976043) 14.5% alcohol
This complex blend of Nebbiolo, Cabernet and Merlot is infused with subtle floral and spice aromas, red fruit, herbs and a hint of vanilla. There’s depth and impact on the palate. It’s dry, medium bodied and firmly structured with a fine seam of acidity complementing the rich berry fruit flavour—raspberry, cherry and currant. Subtly spicy with some earthy herbal notes, this is an elegant wine that can be savoured now with a selection of aged cheeses or cellared medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Pasqua ‘Black Label’ Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2008
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $18.95 (203968) 13.5% alcohol
This blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Corvinone and Negrara is approachable and appealing with a lovely nose of sweet berry, raisined fruit, spice and vanilla. Full flavoured, dry and fruity, it’s harmonious and deftly structured with a good balance of fruit, well-integrated tannin and lively acidity. Palate-pleasing bright fruit, sweet spice and light toast replay on the finish. It’s an enjoyable drop to sip on its own or pour alongside your favourite meat-laden pizza. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan