Vintages release April 30, 2005

This release features wines from the Southern Hemisphere: New Zealand, South Africa, Chile, and Australia.

New Zealand: White

**** drink now
Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough $17.95 (316570)

Great NZ Sauvignon Blanc typicity with passion fruit and nettles on the nose and that tangy cleansing palate. This one reminiscent of lemon-ginger sorbet on the palate with a lengthy, pleasing and cleansing finish. Would pair well with the usual suspects - goat's cheese, shell fish, smoked trout. A perennial favourite worthy of the recognition. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough $31.95 (304469)

This is the wine that put New Zealand on the international wine map and drew attention to the great combination of the Marlborough region and the Sauvignon Blanc grape. It's fair to say that a number of other Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs are in the same league now, but this iconic wine still offers stunning qualities. It has almost unique depth, with pungent flavours of passion fruit, gooseberry and all manner of green fruit with hints of tropical. The acidity is striking and in near-perfect harmony. If you haven't tried this, here's your chance. Drink it with freshly-shucked oysters. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Goldwater 'Roseland' Chardonnay 2003
Marlborough, South Island $20.95 (991463)

Tasted at the winery and here last week with similar notes: the floral and baked apple aromas provide the perfect segue to a full bodied elegant offering. The flavours are an elegant mix of tropical fruit, biscuit bread and citrus characters. This is a well balanced gem without a hint being overly extracted or oaked, yet providing a luscious mouthful of fleshy ripe pit fruit. Gorgeous on its own, sublime with roast leg of pork. (VH)

**** drink now
Saint Clair Riesling 2003
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (651877)

A lifted floral nose with exquisite undertones of mineral and herbaceous characters greet the taster. The palate is all Riesling with citrus galore and a lingering finish that cries out for seared lemon-y scallops and another glass. The uniqueness of this is in the middle palate with a core of ripe nectarines and white peaches seldom found in Riesling. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Delegat's 'Oyster Bay' Chardonnay 2004
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (326728)

Delegat's has this recipe down pat. Deliver a nose of beguiling tropical fruits, caramel and honey, followed by flavours bursting forth with more of the same, year after year, and wine drinkers will beat a path to your cellar door. The '04 offers a zesty finish that would allow it to pair well with lemon chicken. Very good value. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Canterbury House Methode Traditionelle Brut 2001
Canterbury, South Island $29.95 (593046)

The 60% Pinot Noir in this shows through on the slightly pink-tinged wine's appearance and much more so in the full-bodied assault on the palate. Offers up toasty brioche on the nose plus green apple and Anjou pear flavours. This is serious fizz that would serve as an elegant aperitif or the perfect foil for meat or fish hors d'oeuvres. Drink now to 2008. Excellent value. (VH)

***** drink now
Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (975672)

The doyen of Kiwi winemakers strikes yet again. Gooseberries, passion fruit and steely, mineral-y notes attack the olfactory. The palate is elegant and well balanced with the prominent acidity well complimented by the tangy, yet fleshy and ripe citrus flavours. This is SB with attitude and a svelte mouth feel that makes it special for sipping and perfect with food. Try with grilled goat's cheese over smoked trout for a treat. (VH)

New Zealand: Red

**** drink or cellar
Babich Gimblett Gravels "Quartet" 2002
Hawkes Bay, North Island $19.95 (586172)

Gimblett Gravels is an unofficial appellation within the Hawkes Bay wine region, and is noted for its red wines. "Quartet" blends three Bordeaux grapes (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec) with Syrah to produce an intensely-flavoured, dark wine with striking complexity. Look for plum, black cherry, black berry and prominent spicy notes. It's well structured, the tannins are approachable, and the finish is long, fruity and spicy. It's a great partner for grilled red meat. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Sileni 'The Triangle' Merlot 2002
Hawkes Bay, North Island $17.95 (586081)

Plums, spice and cranberry aromas drift from this Hawke's Bay treasure. This wine is indicative of what the excitement over NZ reds, particularly Merlot, is all about. If you haven't yet, you couldn't do better than to test drive this one. The palate and mouthfeel is silky smooth, there is elegant ripe dark fruit, tannins and spice, but no hint of a jammy over-oaked red from you-know-where. A style on to itself that marries well with red meats and hard cheeses. Superb value. (VH)

*****cellar
Stonyridge 'Larose' 2003
Waiheke Island, North Island $99.95 (942201)

Arguably NZ's best, certainly the most expensive red, and their only cult wine. It is hand-picked, all five Bordeaux varieties, ages 12 months in new French oak, seldom fined (and hard to find), never filtered. Owner and visionary Stephen White is Bordeaux-trained. This behemoth has spice, cassis and plums on the nose, flavours of cherries, tar and licorice, gripping tannins and a finish extraordinaire. Visited this iconic winery and paid more than this to cradle one treasured bottle back home. Great value, even at this price. Drink 2009 to 2020. (VH)

**** drink now
Cottesbrook Pinot Noir 2002
South Island $15.95 (586040)

A very well-priced Pinot Noir that's sourced from two regions in the South Island, Marlborough and Canterbury. It's in a lighter style but offers up quite intense cherry and gamey flavours, with some fruit sweetness at the core and good acidity. Pair this with grilled salmon fillets. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kim Crawford Tané 2000
Hawkes Bay, North Island $35.95

Kim Crawford began making wine under his own name less than ten years ago, and quickly became New Zealand's iconic winemaker. His company was recently purchased by Canada's Vincor wine company, and this should mean that we'll see even more KC wines. That's very good news. Tané is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc that's rich, concentrated, and beautifully structured. It has complex dark fruit and berry flavours, nicely integrating ripe tannins, and a generous texture. An excellent partner for well-seasoned grilled lamb, of course. (This is an "In Store Discovery," and not listed in the catalog.) (RP)


South Africa: White

**** drink now
Raats "Original" Unwooded Chenin Blanc 2003
WO Western Region $15.95 (651497)

Chenin Blanc was South Africa's signature white, but in the last few years it's taken a back seat, in terms of exports, anyway, to varieties like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. But fine examples of Chenin Blanc (called Steen there) are still prominent, and it's a pity that it's not a better-known variety in Ontario. This one offers rich layers of fruit with honeyed notes, and an elegantly smooth texture. Drink it with grilled, firm-fleshed white fish. (RP)

**** drink now
Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2004
WO Constantia $16.95 (590398)

Has all the de rigueur characteristics of a SB; herbaceous, nettles and gooseberries, but also an intriguing fleshiness and tangy zing that most probably comes from the Semillon blend. This is a quintessential warm weather sipping wine and well matched for lighter summer fare such as chicken Caesar salad or grilled seafood hot from the barbie. (VH)

South Africa: Red

**** drink now
Beaumont Pinotage 2002
WO Walker Bay $22.95 (963116)

Rich, black, aromatic fruit oozes from this red and surprisingly so, as Walker Bay is a cooler region of SA, specializing in Chards and Pinots. The palate is sweet (from 14.9% alc.) showcasing cassis and hints of mint and capsicum amidst perceptible, but ripe tannins. This is well balanced with a lovely finish. Rack of pepper encrusted lamb would show this off. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Backsberg "Pumphouse" Shiraz 2002
WO Paarl $18.95 (652651)

South African Shiraz is distinctive from Australian, often having slightly nervier fruit flavours and more depth of spicy, smoky notes. Buy one of each and compare them. This one is well-made and quite good value, with rich, dark berry and cherry fruit, with notes of pepper and spice and a hint of smoke. It makes an excellent partner for barbecued red meats. (RP)

South Africa featured winery: Fairview Estate

Fairview has established a successful image with its goat-themed labels like Goats do Roam, Goats do Roam through Villages, and Goat-Roti. It's purely coincidence, of course, that they sound like the French appellations Côtes-du-Rhône, Côtes-du-Rhône- Villages, and Côte-Rôtie. But clever labels wear thin if the wine isn't good, and Charles Back is obviously doing something right with the grapes he sources from his own vines in Paarl region and from elsewhere in South Africa. Here's a sampling of those being released on April 30.

****1/2 drink now
Fairview Goats Do Roam White 2004
WO Western Cape $11.95 (943167)

An aromatic nose of apple blossoms, pears and candied fruit lead the way to a beautifully textured wine of lemon-lime and Granny Smith apple flavours. Exhibits substantial mouth feel for a wine at this price point and it is not from being over oaked. The zesty finish cleans it all up nicely. Lovely on its own, would also match with pan-fried lemon-drizzled Rainbow trout. Buy one and if you like it, go back for a case. (VH)


****1/2 drink or cellar
Fairview "Akkerbos" Chardonnay 2002
WO Coastal Region $26.95 (655373)

Quite a stunning Chardonnay, with classic peach notes on nose and palate (along with pear and apple). The texture is quite beautiful-rich, complex and smooth, and skillfully-handled oak integrates seamlessly and unobtrusively into the texture and flavours. I know there are people who shrink back at a Chardonnay over $20 (unless it's from Burgundy) but make an exception for this one. It's a great partner for roast pork. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fairview "Jakkals Fontein" Shiraz 2002
WO Swartland $28.95 (655357)

This is a great Shiraz from the hot Swartland region. It's packed with deep, dark fruit and a range of notes that include coffee, smoke, pepper and spice. The tannins are ripe and long, the balance is good, the finish is long and dense. Overall, it's well-structured-not a fistful of fruit driven into your palate, but a big Shiraz that achieves an astonishing level of finesse. Pair it up with well-flavoured, dense food, like well-seasoned game and fruit-based compote. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Fairview 'Goat-Roti' 2003
WO Western Cape $19.95 (943175)

This Syrah-Viognier (both Northern Rhone grapes) blend delivers a spicy, peppery red of good value. You will not be barreled over by oak (couldn't resist) as everything about this wine is deftly balanced. Even the fleshy ripe, red fruit flavour is juxtaposed nicely with the cleansing acidic finish. It begs for tomato-based sauces with pasta. Short term cellaring possible. (VH)

**** drink now
Fairview Shiraz 2001
WO Paarl $15.95 (626358)

In no sense a junior Shiraz (to Jakkals Fontein) because it's a very good wine in its own right. The dark fruit are concentrated and intense, with notes that include smoke, pepper, and cedar. There's very good structure, firm ripe tannins, and a long fruity, tannic finish. This will go very well with grilled red meats. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Fairview "Pegleg" Carignan 2003
WO Swartland $23.95 (655365)

Made from some of South Africa's oldest Carignan vines, grown in one of South Africa's warmest wine regions, this has serious fruit and serious complexity. Dark, warm and spicy (the 14% alcohol is perceptible, but not distorting), it has dark fruit and berry flavours with firm, drying tannins and a long finish. Very good as a varietal, it's an excellent partner to grilled red meats like beef and lamb. (RP)


Chile: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Viña Concha y Toro "Casillero del Diablo" Viognier 2004
Casablanca Valley $13.95 (592998)

Fragrant enough to dab behind an ear, floral, honey and nectarine aromas lift gorgeously from the glass. Difficult to find a crowd pleasing Viognier as its distinctiveness is usually appreciated by only true aficionados (I am not yet one) of this grape. However, the tropical fruit flavours, unctuous mouth feel, bracing acidity and overall elegance make this one a devilishly good wine for all wine lovers. Drink over the next 3 years. A winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (VH)

**** drink now
Miguel Torres "Copihue" Sauvignon Blanc 2003
Curicó $15.95 (593012)

Unlike most Sauvignon Blancs, which are fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks to preserve fruit purity and freshness, half the wine in this blend was fermented in oak, then aged in oak for six months. The result is a somewhat more complex style that still achieves an excellent level of fruit purity. The ripe, fairly pungent, fruit is nicely balanced with crisp acidity, and this will be a great partner for a green salad with grilled chicken and goat cheese. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Veramonte Chardonnay 2003
Casablanca Valley $14.95 (494443)

From the cool Casablanca Valley, an elegant Chardonnay at a really excellent price. The flavours offer quite intense fruit (tropical, peach, apricot) with mineral notes. It's impressively complex with a beautiful smooth texture. Pair it with lightly-herbed baked salmon. (RP)

Chile: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Viña Carmen Nativa Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Maipo Valley $18.95 (975359)

An impressively fruity and complex Cab from the organic "Nativa" line. (The LCBO lab puts the free sulphur at 20mg per litre, which is very low.) It gives off a huge nose of dark, minty fruit, and follows through with mouthfilling black fruit and berry flavours with coffee, spice and pepper notes. The tannins are big and grippy, but you can tame them with a piece of rare or medium-rare grilled red meat. Or put the wine away for a couple of years. (RP)


Australia: White

***** drink or cellar *****
David Traeger Verdelho 2003
Victoria $18.95

A beautifully-made Verdelho with soft lemon-lime and floral aromas that give way to vibrant lime and white peach flavours. It's smooth-textured and mouthfilling and attains a rare combination of intensity and delicacy. Just lovely and a great combination with sweeter seafood such as scallops or lobster. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Torbreck Woodcutter's Semillon 2003
Barossa Valley, South Australia $21.95 (927541)

Nutty, floral aromatics provide the perfect entry to this gorgeously textured Aussie white. Fruit forward flavours (lemony tropical fruit and crème brulé) and the finish is involved and lingering. Both rich in the mouth and palate cleansing. Drink over the next couple of years or wait 8 or 10 for that "religious experience" an aged Semillon can bring. (VH)


**** drink or cellar
Meerea Park Shiraz Viognier 2002
Hunter Valley $19.95 (677138)

A little Viognier is traditionally added to Syrah in the Northern Rhône, and now some Australian producers are doing it with their Shirazes to add a little complexity. This one from the Hunter Valley in New South Wales is a real success, with sweet cherry and plum flavours at its core, good balance, supple tannins, and a long spicy fruit finish. Excellent with grilled lamb. (RP)

Australia: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Geoff Merrill Shiraz / Grenache / Mourvèdre 2001
South Australia $18.95 (595371)

Gobs of peppered black cherries and spiced plums on the nose and more of the same coat the palate. This is huge and ripe, yet a beautifully structured and well balanced blend (almost equal parts). The spectacular finish portends an age worthy wine that would stand proud on a table with bar b qued strip loin or rack of lamb. (VH)

****1/2cellar
Kilikanoon "Blocks Road" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Clare Valley $31.95 (926790)

A vibrant, luscious Cab packed with layers of dark fruit, spice, cedar and other notes. It's well balanced with good, food-friendly acidity, and the tannins are ripe, but they're still very drying and need some time to integrate. It's quite full-bodied and, left to its own devices for at least five (and preferably ten) years, it will be just delicious. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kilikanoon "Killermans Run" Shiraz 2002
South Australia $18.95 (925453)

An excellent Shiraz at a very good price. The dark fruit is full-bore-rich, dark and generous-with loads of peppery spices. Full bodied with ripe tannins, it's for short-term cellaring and for drinking with richly-flavoured red meat dishes. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Penmara Reserve Shiraz 2002
Australia $18.95 (912782)

Another winner from these folks with a Hunter Shiraz that opens with raspberry and wet leather aromatics and finishes with full bore fruit and beautifully balanced acidity. The generous and involved palate has a delightful edge of ripe tannins, sour cherries and cranberries over a solid core of cassis. It would keep another 3 or 4 years, but why try? Sip on its own or pair with dried cranberry/apricot stuffed pork loin. (VH)

Australia: Sparkling

**** drink now
Barossa Valley Estate E&E Sparkling Shiraz 1999
Barossa Valley $64.95 (967497)

You either love Sparkling Shiraz, or you don't. I do. This is made in the classic method (second fermentation in the bottle) from grapes that might have been used for the E&E Black Pepper Shiraz (which costs $100 a bottle). What you get is a big, fruity, complex Shiraz, but with bubbles. Drink it with anything you'd drink Shiraz with. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Penley Sparkling Pinot Noir / Chardonnay 1997
South Australia $29.95 (593061)

A stunning nose of ripe peaches, spring flowers and brioche opens the door for a full throttle attack on the palate. It explodes in the mouth with a hugely textured blast of green apples, tropical fruit and bracing acidity. This is exceptional and deserves to be served with the main course. Try stuffed roast chicken or veal Prince Orloff. (VH)

Fruit and Fortified Wine

**** drink now
Rush Creek Cassis
Ontario $15.95 (651539)

This Kosher dessert wine offering opens with lifted aromatics that are unmistakably crushed mint leaves. Rich and unctuous with cassis flavours, but not cloying, it offers a beguiling fruity and well balanced finish. It would provide a perfect end to the meal paired with a Death by Chocolate cake. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Feist Vintage Port 1991
DO Porto, Portugal $45.95 (651984)

Owned by the Barros family, along with Kopke, this Port house is one of oldest and one of the few still family and Portuguese-owned. The hand stenciled bottle lets you know this has been crafted by artisans. The flavour profile leans toward elegance and structure with fruit, acidity and sweetness all in perfect harmony. No blockbuster to overpower the taster, but gorgeous red nectar to beguile you. Sip on its own with friends at the end of the evening. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Heredias Ruby Special Reserve Port
DO Porto, Portugal $19.95 (587022)

Never tried Port? This is about as good as 'entry level' Port gets and the price point is just as appealing. It is a powerful offering with blockbuster characteristics that truly attack the senses. Cherries, raspberries and black licorice are predominant on the palate and the finish is not overpoweringly sweet, but lengthy. Bittersweet chocolate desserts would set this off nicely. (VH)

Canada: Red

**** drink now
Mission Hill Reserve Merlot 2001
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (553313)

An aromatic nose of plums, spice and cherries is the door opener to this medium to full bodied red that is drinking at peak now. Winemaker John Simes has a special talent with this grape and this wine is no exception as the palate delivers a solid core of rich dark and spicy fruit plus ripe and plush tannins. The luxuriously soft finish is memorable. Pair with roast beef and garlic/horseradish mashed potatoes. Good value. (VH)

Canada: Rosé<br/>
****1/2 drink now
Malivoire Ladybug Rosé 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.00 (559088)

Dazzle your palate with this medium-bodied rosé from Niagara. Lots of strawberries and leafy notes on the nose with plenty of spicy red fruit characteristics (cranberries and strawberries) on the palate of this beautifully textured and well balanced Cabernet Franc. Not to be confused with a candied blush wine, but rather a dry wine with body and character. Would not go wrong paired with Bouillabaisse. Great value, will sell out quickly, get in line and stock up. (VH)


California: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Clos du Val Chardonnay 2001
Carneros $27.95 (297499)

A Chardonnay that has it all, and manages to ride the fine line that says "balance" all the way through. The fruit is sweetly ripe and full, yet is restrained by the acidity. The oak is perceptible in the notes it adds to flavours and texture, but could never be called obtrusive. It has depth, breadth, and quiet elegance. Beautifully made, and a pleasure to drink with herb or fruit-stuffed pork tenderloin. (RP)

**** drink now
Leaping Horse Chardonnay 2003
Lodi $12.95 (909796)

Lovely red licorice and tropical fruit aromas open the floodgates to a well balanced, medium bodied white that is tailored for warm weather enjoyment. The uncomplicated flavours of Granny Smith apples and white peaches provide enough fruit and acidity to lend to the clean finish. Jump on this and squirrel away a case for pleasant summer quaffing. Great value. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mer Soleil Chardonnay 2002
Central Coast $49.95 (958975)

Fifty dollars for a Central Coast Chard? Yes. Fragrant apple and melon aromatics waft to the nose of this full bodied (huge) Chardonnay from a region noted for its unique climatic conditions (early morning fog swept away by cooling sea breezes that affords an extended hang time to fully ripen fruit). The finish is redolent of spiced apple pie, caramel and lemon zest. Drink now, but will reward careful cellaring up to 2015. (VH)


California: Red

**** drink or cellar
Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Napa Valley $38.95 (325779)

A quite elegant Napa Cab with a metre that comes in at a decent price. The dark fruit flavours are well focused, and if they're a bit restrained at mid-palate, they pick up quickly and it finishes very well. The tannins are ripe and long, and you can either drink this now (try medium-rare lamb) or confidently put it away until the end of the decade. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Leaping Horse Merlot 2002
Lodi $12.95 (909812)

The Lodi wine region has been attracting a lot of attention in the last few years, and if it can produce this quality at this price, you can see why. It's a well-made Merlot with quite intense dark fruit and some complexity. It has a dry texture, light tannins, and will make a versatile and affordable wine for gourmet barbecues. Stock up while it's here. (RP)

France: Red

**** drink or cellar
Château de Sérame 2002
AOC Corbières $14.95 (51870)

Surprisingly, for this region, rounded, mellow and smooth with an uncomplicated nose of garrigue and gamey notes. Usually a blend of Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache, this one is spicy, peppery and smooth as satin on the palate. Enough tannin to provide texture, but not enough to interfere with the well rounded finish. This is great value and could be proudly served at your next barbie with friends. Excellent value. (VH)

**** drink now
La Cuvée Mythique 2001
Vin de Pays d'Oc $18.95 (352468)

Always a favourite, this is a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan and produced by one of the largest cooperative ventures in the world. It offers concentrated, layered flavours of dark fruit, dried fruit and spice, well balanced with acidity. The tannins are ripe and the finish is long and lingers on the dried fruit and spice notes. Pair it with a densely-flavoured dish like roast elk or wild boar. (RP)

Germany: Red

**** drink now
Königschaffhausen Pinot Noir Trocken 2002
QbA Baden $16.95 (460410)

If you think Germany produces only white wine worth drinking, try a bottle of this. The pale colour might lead you to think it's going to be weak-flavoured, but in fact it has good focused sweet cherry fruit that's fairly concentrated. Throw in some spicy notes and light tannins, and you have a quite delicious Pinot that pairs very well with duck or grilled salmon. (RP)

Italy: White

**** drink now
Dezzani 'I Morelli' Moscata d'Asti 2003
DOCG Piedmont $13.95 (586628)

This the quintessential quaffing sweet aperitif wine for those lazy days in the summer sun. What's not to like? It has enough spritz to please everyone and the gorgeous sweet fruit lends itself to a welcoming wine or to be paired with light sweet desserts. This is well priced and should be drunk within the next few months. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Danzante Pinot Grigio 2003
IGT delle Venezie $14.95 (689794)

Ripe pit fruit and floral aromatics unfold while the flavours are an interesting mix of peaches and pears with a mineral and wet stone underpinning. In a world awash with mediocre Pinot Gris, this is a well made, well priced and, well, lovely wine. (VH)

Italy: Red

**** drink or cellar
Bersano Barolo Nirvasco 1999
DOCG Piedmont $32.95 (713628)

Great typicity in this well priced Barolo. Chocolate, leather and tar on the nose with lots of fireworks (spicy dried cherries, peppery crushed cranberries) on the palate that is full bodied and flavoursome. Surprisingly approachable now, it will be better after careful cellaring for ten years. Try Osso Bucco as a match to this beauty. A winecurrent.com exceptional value pick (VH)


Vintages Release May 14, 2005

California: White

**** drink now
Cakebread Chardonnay 2003
Napa Valley $31.95 (655795)

Intense vanilla, bread dough and tropical fruit aromatics burst from the glass. It is full bodied and fleshy in the mouth and well balanced with good acidity. Meticulous practices include: hand picked then whole clustered ripe fruit from various Napa regions, was basket pressed then 80% fermented in French oak (balance in stainless steel). It then underwent partial malolactic before being aged sur lie (on the dead yeast cells) for 8 months before bottling last June. Won't find better California Chard at this price. (VH)

California: Red

*****cellar
Christian Moueix "Dominus" 2001
Napa Vally $109.95 (703850)

A stunning Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend from a man better known as Monsieur Merlot. He's the owner of Château Petrus, that quite well-known Merlot from Pomerol. "Dominus" is his New World success, and it's become a cliché to say that it combines California power with Bordeaux restraint. But that's the way the 2001 comes off, with brooding dark fruit and berries, accented by earthiness, coffee, licorice, and dried herbs. It has lowish acidity, ripe, supple tannins, and a long finish. It's just ready to drink, but to do it justice, let it gather dust for ten years. (RP)

****1/2cellar
Qupé"Bien Nacido Hillside Estate" Syrah 2001
Santa Maria Valley $58.95 (655860)

A quite lovely Syrah with intense fruit (cherry dominant) and spice, pepper and licorice notes. The tannins are chalky and very gripping, and I'd put this down for at least five years to let them soften and give the fruit a bit more room on the stage. (RP)

France: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Laroche Chablis 'Saint-Martin' 2003
AOC Burgundy $24.95 (365023)

An atypical Chablis with a fuller mouth feel than many, yet still retaining the characteristics (steely, clean and zesty) that make Chablis such a great mollusk wine. A subdued floral nose opens up on the palate with stone fruit, mineral and citrus flavours that carry over seamlessly to the lengthy finish. Raw oysters drizzled with fresh lemon would match perfectly. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Joseph Drouhin Saint-Romain Blanc 2002
AOC Burgundy $27.95 (590174)

Toast and oak drift from the glass of this well balanced white from one of Burgundy's more affordable sub regions. The beautiful texture is augmented by peach and pear flavours and an incredibly long and luxurious finish - one of the hallmarks of well made wine. This has enough oomph, acidity and structure to pair with grilled sword fish steaks or white meat dishes. (VH)

**** drink now
Chéreau-Carré 'Le Fleuron' Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine 2003
AOC Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine $13.95 (653493)

Typical nose from this region with mineral tones, toasty brioche and baking bread - from the sur lie treatment - aromatics. Dead yeast cell aromas may sound not like something to aspire to, but they certainly define these wines and are surprisingly quite pleasant. This one has more texture than most, delivering a medium to full bodied wine of intense flavours (ripe peaches and zesty lime) and a clean laser-like finish. Great value in a summer sipping wine or can be paired with soft cheeses, especially chèvre, or grilled fish and other seafood. (VH)

France: Red

****1/2cellar
Cave des Vignerons de Gigondas 'Le Brut du Foudre 56' Gigondas 1999
AOC Gigondas $29.95 (987404)

This is a huge wine to come from such a small town. Many cooperatives produce fine wine and this is another to add to the list. The fragrant nose is chocolate, tar and red berries while the palate is a fruit bomb of black cherries, spice and cassis. The tannins are quite gripping and this requires another 2 or 3 years in the cellar. This is a gutsy red that needs rare grilled steak to tame it, if you dare to drink now. Try in 2008 and drink, comfortably, until 2012. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Bouscassé 2000
AOC Madiran $42.95 (677294)

An opaque inky wine from the region that showcases the Tannat grape like no other. This vintage is 60 % Tannat, 30 % Cabernet Franc, 10 % Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromatics are involved and display mocha, tar, black licorice, capsicum and spice notes. The flavours are black cherries and assorted ripe berry fruit with perceptible and edgy tannins. Drink now, with red grilled meats, generously herbed, or cellar until 2009. (VH)

France: Champagne

***** drink now
Bollinger 'Special Cuvée' Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $69.95 (384529)

This straw-coloured bubbly has a divine nose of green apples, buttered toast and lemon zest. The attack is sensational and the residual texture is all Bollinger: rich, beautifully textured and clean. The lengthy finish is glorious. This wine would be a match made in heaven for sweetbreads in a champagne sauce. Worth every penny, this wine for a special person, like you. (VH)

Germany: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Geschwister Simon Riesling Kabinett 2003
QmP Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $13.95 (919449)

A fragrant nose of green tea, limes and flowers leads to an explosion of tangy tropical fruit that is nicely balanced with zesty and tangy acidity. Has one of those sweet and sour finishes that keeps bringing you back for more. An atypical Mosel at an atypically low price. Buy a few to drink now, more to cellar until 2010. A winecurrent.com exceptional value selection. (VH)

Italy: Red

**** drink now
Ascheri Barbera d'Alba Fontanelle 2003
DOC Piedmont $18.95 (982462)

The nose is muted chanterelles and leather with ripe cherry notes. This medium-bodied northern Italian red offers up sour cherries and spiced plums on the palate, firm, but ripe tannins and a lengthy and fruit filled, almost juicy, finish. You can sense some oak and it may need a couple of years in the cellar for some tasters. Try it now, and over the next 5 years, with pasta a la Bolognaise. This is very good wine at a great price. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bortoluzzi Merlot 2002
IGT Venezia Giulia $16.95 (653170)

This is a real stunner at an excellent price. When I tasted this for the first time I was taken aback by the pure and generous ripe fruit (plum and berry to the fore), and by the acidic balance. It has approachable tannins, and good finish, and it's a wonderful partner for rich red meats dishes of many kinds. (RP)

*****cellar
Antinori 'Pian Delle Vigne' Brunello di Montalcino 1999
DOCG Tuscany $61.95 (651141)

The King of Italian winemakers scores big on this Tuscan red, made from a specific clone of Sangiovese - Brunello (the little dark one). The low yields and unique limestone soils combine to forge this hugely textured and tannic beauty. Tar and earthy on the nose now, will develop into leather, licorice and chocolate, in time. The flavours are fruit forward and full of black, ripe berries. You can drink now or cellar until 2012, it will just keep evolving. A superb wine. (VH)

*****cellar
Frescobaldi Montesodi Chianti Rufina 2001
DOCG Tuscany $57.95 (304501)

As big as Chianti gets, this is a ripper. Full bodied and from pure Sangiovese fruit, the nose is spice, cassis and blueberries whilst the palate is highly textured, velvety and fleshy without being flabby. The juicy flavours include black cherries and red licorice and the finish is extremely well balanced and lengthy. Lots of tannin and acidity here for lengthy ageing. Drink 2009-2020. (VH)

**** drink now
Farina Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2001
DOC Veneto $15.95 (999946)

A lighter styled Ripasso that is certainly not deeply coloured or heavily extracted, but still delivers great value in a softly textured red. From the floral and strawberry nose through to the clean fruity finish, the deft handling of this wine from vine to glass is apparent. Flavours are reminiscent of dried currants and Xmas cake spice. The price is right. (VH)

Lebanon: Red

**** drink now
Tanail Massaya 'Selection' 2002
Bekaa Valley $13.95 (641688)

Never tried a wine from Lebanon? Try this one. The lifted nose of mint, cassis and red licorice blends into the broad palate of flavours including a sweet core of plums and fresh crushed strawberries. This medium bodied offering has a smooth finish of dried cranberries and spice. This wine deserves better than to be categorized as a 'barbie' wine, so try with your favourite red meat, grilled or out of the oven. (VH)

Portugal: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta da Garrida Touriga Nacional 2001
DOC Dao $23.95 (586735)

A gorgeous wine that could be labeled a California Cab wannabe. There is mint and cassis on the nose and all juicy black fruit in the heavily textured mouth feel. What Port must taste like without the residual sugar - spicy, full bore fruit with a lingering finish. This dry red cries out for Beef Wellington accompanied by a wild mushroom sauce. (VH)

Spain: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Campo Viejo Gran Reserva 1997
DOC Rioja $28.95 (586701)

A delicious eight-year-old Rioja with well integrated fruit (plum, dried fruit, smoke, figs). The tannins are ripe and fine-grained, and the acidity is bright. The Vintages catalog notes that it has thrown some sediment and should be decanted. When you've done that, serve it with a grilled veal chop in a red wine reduction. (RP)

**** drink now
Viñas del Vero Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
DO Somontano $13.95 (499160)

The Somontano region is in northern Spain, in the foothills of the Pyrenees, and it produces some wonderful red wines. This is an exceptionally well-priced Cabernet, with quite intense fruit, good complexity, and firm tannins. All together, it's well made and will make an excellent wine for summer barbecues, so buy an armful now. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Cune Reserva 2000
DOC Rioja $25.95 (652461)

It's five years old and has all the vibrancy of a much younger wine. Look for bright plum and red berry flavours accented with spicy notes, firm but approachable tannins, very good balance and a long finish. Pair it with a well-herbed grilled rack of lamb. (RP)

Cheers!

Rod and Vic